When you were zooming in with multiply, I was like "...what's with this zoom in as you fumble over your words? You've made this unintentionally comedic." But then you did the little drop/"unsure" thing and I laughed out loud. Nice sense of humor.
I'm covering a section (one week) on trapping and overprinting in my Digital Illustration class. I'll make sure this is one of the videos they can follow up on. Strong work Casey.
Your videos are so helpful! I did a lot of screen printing in college, but didn't have time to keep it up after graduation. Now I'm about to start a new job as a graphic designer for a print shop, and your vids are really helping jog my memory! Keep up the good work!
Does anyone still use photo shop and or illustrator for screen printing anymore? I just come from a screen printing class and not one of them uses either one, thet all used Corel draw, or vinyl masters, the two actual screen shops i know, bith use corel draw. Just asking ?
Hi! Thanks for the tips. I'm a newbie here and this will be very helpful. I just got question. When we screen print overlapping colors, do we print it as 3 individual colors (in case of blue, green and yellow) or do we print this as CMYK process printing?
thanks, but wait, can you actually use blending mode for print jobs? I was told this wouldn't work when the file's sent to the printshop, and the transparency modes are only for screen? thank you
tanks for the quick response I forgot to add one nore thing options to print half tones available for free most of us beginners can't afford to pay $400 for Accurip or other software since Adobe sofware can be obtain for free. It is only halfway when it comes to do more complex work thank you and have a nice holliday season.
This is very helpful is there or could yo make a vid. on how to print on transparency. sometimes gets confusing or at least I do my epson 1400 has so many options as well as photoshop and illustrator especially when doing multiple colors thanks
thanks, please tell us how to print it then with corel or illustrator. i think if you print as vector, this effect will not work. do you convert the complete shape to bitmap or just cut halftones, and how?
Hi, i have some questions. Been googling for some time, but no results. What will be the outcome, if i overprint black process color over regular plastisol spot color, say blue or orange? Do i get a darker shade of the said color, or something else? Thank you in advance.
Casey can you do something on choking and trapping as it relates to printing on shirts. How to use it when you don't want to butt register all the colors. Thanks.
Hey +WhiteyGraphics ! I did touch on chokes and traps a little bit in my How to Make an Underbase video. ruclips.net/video/iy4cPQTLutQ/видео.html I do need to dedicate a video to it though.
+Start Screen Printing Now I remember that video. I was thinking of maybe you could expand the Lizzy when you change the black to blue, and put an underbase under both the green and blue. Now if the registration is off a little and the blue and green are butting each other you will see the white. Kinda like you said something on the trap and choke subject by itself, Thanks for the reply.
For me, this is where the Pathfinder tools come in handy. Usually when I'm making my underbase I drag the art to copy to a new layer then lock the other art and start. Depending on the art, I might use the Divide tool to get the separate shapes, or if things are going to be butted for the base then I'll go ahead and use Merge. From there I select the shapes then go to Object > Path > Outline Stroke then set the stroke weight. Gotta remember though that the actual stroke is half the weight you choose unless you set your stroke to inside.
+Alex Vazquez thanks for the comment Alex! Really good tips. Yes the pathfinder tool is boss. I use add and merge most of the time. I dont use divide a lot. I do cover some of this a bit in my video about underbases but should have mentioned more here as well. Thanks again!
Have you printed films using each method? And if so, is there a noticeable difference in the way the rip produces the half tones? I might just try this on a small scrap of film tomorrow at work to find out haha
Start Screen Printing Now Cool, that's good to know. I'm going to using an overprint for one of my own creations but have never approached art that way before. Thanks for the info!
I think the video could be more complete and informative. Multiply mode should work for printing composites but shouldn't really work for knocking out the color that is being overtaken in screenprinting. It would give too heavy a coverage in those areas. I think as well that would be important to mention that for screenprinting separations that the entire underbase (and inlines if they are used) need to have overprints used as well. I'm just trying to give some constructive feedback.
I appreciate the feedback! I have a video about setting up underbases and I believe I addressed that in that video but probably should have mentioned it here. Personally, in Illustrator I have all of my artwork on 1 layer and my underbase on a layer below that and jus turn off the top layer when printing the base.
Hey Omar! I'm trying to save up for a lot of things and rip software is one of them. At home for now I bitmap all of my halftone layers in photoshop and print from illustrator. I use Wasatch SoftRIP for years at my old shop and it was pretty incredible but not very cost effective. Its really expensive. The go to is definitely AccuRIP and thats what I am going to get hopefully very soon.
+sergio hidrogo if you have any sort of gradient or tint to your colors then yes it would need to be converted to halftones either through photoshop (check out my first video for that) or your rip software like accuRIP can do it for you when outputting the films. Thanks!
+sergio hidrogo accuRIP does not do the color separating unfortunately. That can be done with 3rd party software like Spot Process Separation Studio (which used to be called VueRite) or a Photoshop plugin called T-Seps (formerly Fast Films I believe). Most experts do it manually in photoshop though and it can be more accurate that way. Yeah rip software is more for controlling your halftone output so your printer knows how to print your film.
+sergio hidrogo accuRIP does not do the color separating unfortunately. That can be done with 3rd party software like Spot Process Separation Studio (which used to be called VueRite) or a Photoshop plugin called T-Seps (formerly Fast Films I believe). Most experts do it manually in photoshop though and it can be more accurate that way. Yeah rip software is more for controlling your halftone output so your printer knows how to print your film.
thanks!!! that was very helpful! Do you know If I can use overprint/multiple with Pantone colors for print as well? I'm trying to save my .ai file into pdf and it tells me that 'the transparency blend space doesn't match the destination color space'
When you were zooming in with multiply, I was like "...what's with this zoom in as you fumble over your words? You've made this unintentionally comedic." But then you did the little drop/"unsure" thing and I laughed out loud. Nice sense of humor.
🤣 same here..I keep asking why zoom?? Please stop..no need to zoom...😆
Oldie but a goodie. Needed to know how to set certain PMS colors from a texture to overprint on top of a solid PMS. This tutorial is solid. 🤙
I'm covering a section (one week) on trapping and overprinting in my Digital Illustration class. I'll make sure this is one of the videos they can follow up on. Strong work Casey.
Hey thank you very much Morgan. I really appreciate that. I'm happy to help
Your videos are so helpful! I did a lot of screen printing in college, but didn't have time to keep it up after graduation. Now I'm about to start a new job as a graphic designer for a print shop, and your vids are really helping jog my memory! Keep up the good work!
+EmmaImpact I'm really happy that these videos could help Emma !
Thankyou, I'll show this to our students.
Lololol the multiply explanation panic attack. We've all been there.
this had me loling also
Great video and thanks for posting.
I would love to see you do a detailed video on gradients and how to print them. Gradients drive me up a wall :)
+Judith Sin hey judith! I'll keep that in mind for future vids! Thanks!
Does anyone still use photo shop and or illustrator for screen printing anymore? I just come from a screen printing class and not one of them uses either one, thet all used Corel draw, or vinyl masters, the two actual screen shops i know, bith use corel draw. Just asking ?
Thank you. Was lost for a while
Hi! Thanks for the tips. I'm a newbie here and this will be very helpful.
I just got question. When we screen print overlapping colors, do we print it as 3 individual colors (in case of blue, green and yellow) or do we print this as CMYK process printing?
thanks, but wait, can you actually use blending mode for print jobs? I was told this wouldn't work when the file's sent to the printshop, and the transparency modes are only for screen? thank you
tanks for the quick response I forgot to add one nore thing options to print half tones available for free most of us beginners can't afford to pay $400 for Accurip or other software since Adobe sofware can be obtain for free. It is only halfway when it comes to do more complex work thank you and have a nice holliday season.
Channels with design tips + average humor have at least 100k subs. You should have 3M subs. Too bad you stopped uploading man.
Thanks! My humor is below average but I am going to start uploading again very soon. Had to start over with a new computer
great video! this satisfied me on many levels..... (sounds weird). The "unsure of multiply" killed me man! haha
+Gearbox Designs ha thanks David! I aim to satisfy on every level
What does he mean by . Unsure of multiply 😊
So helpful, thanks! Any tips are getting a nice vibrant color to print on transparent paper? It's awfully muted so far :(
This is very helpful is there or could yo make a vid. on how to print on transparency. sometimes gets confusing or at least I do my epson 1400 has so many options as well as photoshop and illustrator especially when doing multiple colors thanks
+saul sep Thank you Saul! Yes I think that would be a really good idea. I'll put it in the idea queue
thanks, please tell us how to print it then with corel or illustrator. i think if you print as vector, this effect will not work. do you convert the complete shape to bitmap or just cut halftones, and how?
Hi, i have some questions. Been googling for some time, but no results. What will be the outcome, if i overprint black process color over regular plastisol spot color, say blue or orange? Do i get a darker shade of the said color, or something else? Thank you in advance.
ROFL with the "unsure of multiply " ... hahahaha
3:32 LOL don't worry, keep on with the tut 😁
Casey can you do something on choking and trapping as it relates to printing on shirts. How to use it when you don't want to butt register all the colors. Thanks.
Hey +WhiteyGraphics ! I did touch on chokes and traps a little bit in my How to Make an Underbase video. ruclips.net/video/iy4cPQTLutQ/видео.html
I do need to dedicate a video to it though.
+Start Screen Printing Now I remember that video. I was thinking of maybe you could expand the Lizzy when you change the black to blue, and put an underbase under both the green and blue. Now if the registration is off a little and the blue and green are butting each other you will see the white. Kinda like you said something on the trap and choke subject by itself, Thanks for the reply.
For me, this is where the Pathfinder tools come in handy. Usually when I'm making my underbase I drag the art to copy to a new layer then lock the other art and start. Depending on the art, I might use the Divide tool to get the separate shapes, or if things are going to be butted for the base then I'll go ahead and use Merge. From there I select the shapes then go to Object > Path > Outline Stroke then set the stroke weight. Gotta remember though that the actual stroke is half the weight you choose unless you set your stroke to inside.
+Alex Vazquez thanks for the comment Alex! Really good tips. Yes the pathfinder tool is boss. I use add and merge most of the time. I dont use divide a lot. I do cover some of this a bit in my video about underbases but should have mentioned more here as well. Thanks again!
Have you printed films using each method? And if so, is there a noticeable difference in the way the rip produces the half tones? I might just try this on a small scrap of film tomorrow at work to find out haha
+Alex Vazquez Hi Alex. I have used both ways and as far as I can tell they produce the exact same film.
Start Screen Printing Now Cool, that's good to know. I'm going to using an overprint for one of my own creations but have never approached art that way before. Thanks for the info!
Really Thank u .
I think the video could be more complete and informative. Multiply mode should work for printing composites but shouldn't really work for knocking out the color that is being overtaken in screenprinting. It would give too heavy a coverage in those areas. I think as well that would be important to mention that for screenprinting separations that the entire underbase (and inlines if they are used) need to have overprints used as well. I'm just trying to give some constructive feedback.
I appreciate the feedback! I have a video about setting up underbases and I believe I addressed that in that video but probably should have mentioned it here. Personally, in Illustrator I have all of my artwork on 1 layer and my underbase on a layer below that and jus turn off the top layer when printing the base.
thank you.
How do you convert 3Ds Max overprinted image (on highest quality Egyption qualith - may thanks.
What rip software do you use?
Hey Omar! I'm trying to save up for a lot of things and rip software is one of them. At home for now I bitmap all of my halftone layers in photoshop and print from illustrator. I use Wasatch SoftRIP for years at my old shop and it was pretty incredible but not very cost effective. Its really expensive. The go to is definitely AccuRIP and thats what I am going to get hopefully very soon.
so for this to print it would half to be converted to half tones?
+sergio hidrogo if you have any sort of gradient or tint to your colors then yes it would need to be converted to halftones either through photoshop (check out my first video for that) or your rip software like accuRIP can do it for you when outputting the films. Thanks!
Can you use an overprint if your are screen printing transfers?
+Mickaela Hoffpauir Hi Mickaela! I'm sorry but I dont have any experience using screen printing transfers and so I cant really say.
does accurip color separate as well or does it simply just ( create dots )
+sergio hidrogo accuRIP does not do the color separating unfortunately. That can be done with 3rd party software like Spot Process Separation Studio (which used to be called VueRite) or a Photoshop plugin called T-Seps (formerly Fast Films I believe). Most experts do it manually in photoshop though and it can be more accurate that way. Yeah rip software is more for controlling your halftone output so your printer knows how to print your film.
+sergio hidrogo accuRIP does not do the color separating unfortunately. That can be done with 3rd party software like Spot Process Separation Studio (which used to be called VueRite) or a Photoshop plugin called T-Seps (formerly Fast Films I believe). Most experts do it manually in photoshop though and it can be more accurate that way. Yeah rip software is more for controlling your halftone output so your printer knows how to print your film.
I hated the video but I hit the like button
hahaha, unsure part is legendary :P
cools kids don't call it that
"unsure of multiply" LOL!! Thanks!
thanks!!! that was very helpful! Do you know If I can use overprint/multiple with Pantone colors for print as well? I'm trying to save my .ai file into pdf and it tells me that 'the transparency blend space doesn't match the destination color space'