This is by far the best video on RUclips that actually shows what the "motors" look like and that there is no soldering required....👍🏽👍🏽 awesome video and you're an rc'er! Thank you
Hi Dmonket, all this is beyond may abilities and was amazed watching your video's. After a fuel pump replacement several months ago, my gas gauge wasn't working and the shop that did the work is saying that the gauge is likely the issue. I said that the gauge was fine before. Anyway, now he says the shop that he would use to replace the fuel gauge is no longer in business. He is having trouble finding someone to work on the cluster, So would you be interested in doing the work? Let me know.
Good vid. Btw the holes in the ends of your torx bits are for security head torx screws. The torx security screws have little nipples sticking up so the hole in the end of bit allows the bit to slip over the nipple.
Hi Dmonkey, great video....but I have a doubt in your procedure: when the gauge needle is out you put the syringe into the needle shaft or is necessary to remove that shaft??....I mean not removing the others gauges just the fuel gauge needle, because seems to be there is a very little space or gap between the shaft and the yellow plastic . Thanks
So same motor controls the oil and temp gauges too? Hmm...at times I've noticed differences with them too. 99 Tahoe fuel gauge is doing this and my hubby's 95 Georgia Milk Cow pickup. Only I don't think my fuel level is right at all yet his seems unaffected. And mine as well replace that bad headlight switch while we got dash tore apart!!
Aldo, I cannot reply to you because of unknown youtube reasons. The small amount of space between the shaft and yellow plastic is supposed to be like that. you have to force the silicon oil inside there, if it was easier, it would all spill back out :(
Hi, thanks for clarify this. Seems to be a patient work but now I understand the right procedure to do it. I bought a 30K silicone oil....maybe 20K as you used should be a better idea....anyway I'll let you know if i have success with 30K
I bought my 96 tahoe with a 98 fuel pump installed so it wouldn’t read my gas correctly, after I installed the 96 fuel pump the gas gauge stays on F for fuel and won’t budge to move. What do y’all think??
Air core motors, these motors can be found . Just look for GM Air core motors. Doorman used to manufacture them but I think they stopped producing them
Does anyone know what the green tapped up wiring harness, with a connector at the end of it, wrapped in gray foam on the right bottom of the gauge cluster is for? What accessory is it suppose to be for that it isn't connected to? I have this same harness in my 1996 Suburban SLT 2500 7.4L 4x4. I do have the rear hatch button and rear wiper switch already in this location, so it's not for those. What other options could it go to? If anyone else knows please let me know. The only thing else I can think about is I have seen other model years with a airbag key switch for turning on or off the passenger airbag and my Suburban doesn't have a passenger airbag and it has the 2 cups holder on the passenger dash. Was it possible for that option of airbag? Please let me know if anyone knows. Thanks 👍
Deplorable Irredeemable hey man sorry for the late reply. The fix was moderate at best. I used 100k rc silicone diff fluid. I’d probably go thicker if I were to attempt again. That being said, the motors are available on eBay and that may be the way to go. I can’t say for sure because I no longer have or even have access to another obs to test on. Hope this helps
@@DmonkeyProductions , I tried 20,000 CST, and that was clearly too viscous for me. The shaft basically got stuck and would not respond. I also simply cut the side of the metal case to expose the shaft using a grinding wheel, rather than remove the resistor pack and case. I then simply drilled a hole. Note that there are some very fine wires covering one side of the yellow shaft, so avoid cutting on that side obviously. I did not have much trouble using a syringe through the drilled hole, rather than over the needle shaft. I then used a glue gun to cap it off after filling. In any case, I will have to order a new one. The label on my gauge was >F3G 22 50 (hard to read). 99 Suburban k1500 5.8L. And of course, right after reassembling, the temp gauge stopped working so now I will have to debug that also.
I think it maybe for some extra features like 4wheel drive with the auto transfer case or something in that area as they have that are that has nothing on it mine has4x4 but has a manual transfer case but still has that connector behind the instrument cluster.
I think it’s a great video it showed a lot of other things I needed to do. Like replace the twist out bulbs. I believe their T3 & other sizes. My gas gauge was funky all other gauges were great after replacing my fuel pump & sender (I guess the sending unit fixed my gauge. )Thanks great video love the black cat!! I have 2 lol!!!
I really liked your video and thanks for showing the back, but how did you know it was your gauge and not the fuel sending unit? Were the other needles working properly? I thought if the gas gauge itself was faulty all of the needles had to be. I can't "drop the tank" to replace the fuel sending unit because I have no access panel. I have an 05 Impala if that helps.
queenfubi sending unit was replaced first with a reputable company. All my other gauges were working properly, yes. I know in the 2005 trucks, the gauge stepper motors die and wig out but that’s different than what I experienced with this Tahoe. Hope this helps.
Dmonkey Thanks alot for reading and answering my questions. My problem is slightly different but seems close. You said your needle was flopping around. Mine just moves twice, once to go from empty to full when I start it, then once again about 20 seconds later to go back to empty. It stays at empty until the next time I start the car. I do hear a funny sound from the dash just before the gauge drops to empty though. I know you can't diagnose my car but does that sound like the fuel sending unit? Stepper motor?
queenfubi on the newer clusters, they have motors in them that sweep the gauges like the ones in my video. The difference is that they’re newer and also solder in to the cluster where as mine pull out. It’s common for Chevy clusters to freak out because the factory stepper motors (gauge motors) were junk. Search Chevy stepper motor problem and see what results you get. I can’t tell you if it’s that or your sending unit though unfortunately :(
Dmonkey Thanks. I will definitely search now. I didn't even know there were motors behind the instrument panel until I saw your video. Now it's starting to make sense!
+Dmonkey Productions +Dmonkey Productions Sorry to bother you I know you said you sold your Tahoe but i hope you remember and would be able to help me with a quick question: once you get the clear plastic cover off the cluster and the needles there are no other screws or clips to get the face off. I just pry it off slowly and evenly? Also can i just replace the motors? Thank you for your help, trying to do this on my own without sending the cluster away to get fixed. Save some money for bigger projects lol
Mongo L Yes, I just pried it slowly and evenly to make sure I wasn't breaking anything. One of the areas where I was defeated was sourcing new motors to put in. I tried a junkyard cluster and even swapped some around to no avail. If it is in fact a problem in the motor, I wasn't able to verify it. It still bothers me a little lol. I know how the saving money thing goes. The money and not wanting to send it off and not have that be the problem kept me from messing with it. Good luck, be careful when you pop it apart, don't break anything!
my 1998 chevy silverado 6.5 diesal fuel guage will not go below half a tank i fill it right up and it will go down but not below half please help before i run out of deisal
Darrell Johnson when this was going on, I crawled all over the Internet looking for those. Damn that would have been convenient. I wish I still had it :(
+TheMRMARK1 That unfortunately becomes the larger issue. I wasnt able to locate a source for them or a part number. Sadly, I sold the Tahoe in May so I've lost interest in trying to locate them. It may be possible to source them from a company that does gauge cluster repairs. Thanks again for your comments, they're really appreciated!
I just did this last not, i replaced the motoer for the fuel gauge and i have a full tank so i hope this worked. I dont want to spend 160 on a fuel sending unit if thats not the problem.
Fuel pump issue? I've been plagued by this f*ck*r for 7 years! ...Fact - the old after market/replacement fuel pumps had an issue with grounding properly- actually the connector and pigtail connector to replacement fuel pumps- typically if you've had your fuel pump replaced between 1999-2010 or 20011 ... I have a 99 burban and I swapped cluster ( after 5 years of other efforts) thinking it was FINALLY fixing my issue but it did not (2 other clusters had fluttering fuel gauge as well) so I now know it's not stepper motor, it's definitely a ground issue- at the very least a ground issue somewhere (pump? wire harness/connector???) plus a lot of research -too much... I am finally replacing my pump this weekend and will try to post update.... symptoms should be "needle starts shaking after fuel pump is replaced (replaced between 2000 -2011) symptoms also include - first it either doesn't shake or shakes but works then slowly erodes (fuel pump is getting older and starting to go bad/die) then needle stops working (just shakes in one spot or random spots) then eventually, within a year or so the fuel pump fails completely ... and this part is just my opinion and theory but more research lead me to believe the individuals who replaced fuel pump to no avail, DID NOT install/replace the updated pig tail wireharness that came with new (after 2011) fuel pump. Either because A. they did it wrong B. Their mechanic did it wrong, C. they or mechanic simply didn't bother to replace new harness/pigtail bc they were lazy or didn't know or D. they bought a new fuel pump that was made before the updated pig tail. The older "new replacement" fuel pumps (made before 2010) on Amazon, autozone (especially auto zone), etc. do not have the updated wire harness/pigtail ... I also noticed that GM improved the wire harness simply bc they were getting complaints leading up to 2010 bc this issue was even happening at dealer mechanic bc they (fuel pumps) are all all made in china and their aren't 2,3, or 4 gm fuel pump manufacturing plants in china, just 1 !!! Which proves my other theory - the difference between a $70 chinese fuel pump or anything and a $150+ chinese fuel pump is , well nothing ... they're all made in the same factory ... hope this helps some, I will try to update after NEW pump is installed ...
Hey John. Did you ever fix your issue? My 2000 Yukon gauge goes to either completely empty or completely full. The needle also constantly buzzing, so it looks blurry. I think someone replaced the fuel pump in this car because I can see a wire splice back by the tank which leads me to believe someone spliced a harness in, which sounds like what you are talking to. Let me know. I 'd hate to buy a stepper motor and go through all that trouble to find out it wasn't the stepper motor. Show less REPLY
Jose Hernandez Sorry about that, if I remember right, it just pulls out of the back of the board it’s stuck to. I didn’t take the motor apart, I just punctured a hole in it with a hot needle and forced silicone oil into it. If you look in the description, you’ll see a link to a source another youtuber found to just replace the motor itself. I don’t want to tell you to spend 40 bucks because that’s a lot of money on a guess but that was my next move since injecting it with silicone made it better, but didn’t fix it. Sadly I don’t have the Tahoe or the cluster anymore
Dmonkey ok thank you. I appreciate it. Same thing for me. I actually swapped it for a new stepper motor figured out how to remove the resistor but unfortunately didnt work for me either.
A year later lol the truck died on me due to a bad fuel pump thru out the whole one year . The gauge just kept dancing worst and worst lol . So 2 days later went to go buy and fuel pump and install it . Right away when I turn on the fuel gauge stop dancing so y’all should try to get a fuel pump before doing all that crazy stuff to the dashboard
Edwin Aleman Hey man thanks for the comment. I need to address one thing real quick: mine was doing this after a new quality OE fuel pump replacement. This video was more about exploring what I could do after I threw a bunch of money at the problem.
YOU CAN BUY A GAS GAUGE AND RUN IT TO THE SENDING UNIT . THE SAME THANG HAPPEN TO MIND AND IT BAD THAT IT SPINS AROUND. SO I SPENT $ 21 FOR THE GAUGE AT AUTO ZONE.I LET U KNOW IF IT WARKS.
You can just go to your local wrecking yard and purchase a used instrument cluster. . And be done with it....its just a thought. ...thanks for the video.
I did that about a month ago. I went around and found three potential clusters. I then cook the plastic off the front and moved the gauged on each one and bought the best feeling. I got home and tried it out.. to no avail.
This is by far the best video on RUclips that actually shows what the "motors" look like and that there is no soldering required....👍🏽👍🏽 awesome video and you're an rc'er! Thank you
+TheMRMARK1 Thank you for the kind words!
One of the best repair videos I have ever watched... Thank You!
biblican911 thank you man!
Hi Dmonket, all this is beyond may abilities and was amazed watching your video's. After a fuel pump replacement several months ago, my gas gauge wasn't working and the shop that did the work is saying that the gauge is likely the issue. I said that the gauge was fine before. Anyway, now he says the shop that he would use to replace the fuel gauge is no longer in business. He is having trouble finding someone to work on the cluster, So would you be interested in doing the work? Let me know.
Hi, excellent video. Without remove the other arms how do you add the oil into the gauge???....It is needed to remove the gauge shaft???
Good vid. Btw the holes in the ends of your torx bits are for security head torx screws. The torx security screws have little nipples sticking up so the hole in the end of bit allows the bit to slip over the nipple.
I’m not gonna do what you’re doing but thank you, you gave me a great idea!👍
Hi Dmonkey, great video....but I have a doubt in your procedure: when the gauge needle is out you put the syringe into the needle shaft or is necessary to remove that shaft??....I mean not removing the others gauges just the fuel gauge needle, because seems to be there is a very little space or gap between the shaft and the yellow plastic . Thanks
So same motor controls the oil and temp gauges too? Hmm...at times I've noticed differences with them too. 99 Tahoe fuel gauge is doing this and my hubby's 95 Georgia Milk Cow pickup. Only I don't think my fuel level is right at all yet his seems unaffected. And mine as well replace that bad headlight switch while we got dash tore apart!!
Aldo, I cannot reply to you because of unknown youtube reasons. The small amount of space between the shaft and yellow plastic is supposed to be like that. you have to force the silicon oil inside there, if it was easier, it would all spill back out :(
Hi, thanks for clarify this. Seems to be a patient work but now I understand the right procedure to do it. I bought a 30K silicone oil....maybe 20K as you used should be a better idea....anyway I'll let you know if i have success with 30K
I bought my 96 tahoe with a 98 fuel pump installed so it wouldn’t read my gas correctly, after I installed the 96 fuel pump the gas gauge stays on F for fuel and won’t budge to move. What do y’all think??
My question is when the car is off all the nettles supposed to be to the left position? Thanks
I believe they stay where they were when you shut the car off. It’s been 10 years since I owned this.
I noticed your mileage went down since your fix ...
😂😂😂 I'm kiddn bud thanks for the video man good work
Lmao shh
what was the name of the silicone compound you used
how dis you reach the motors? i just took apart my cluster but couldn't get to the motors.
Take a flat head screw driver and pry up on the gauge side of the cluster. It'll pop right off
Air core motors, these motors can be found . Just look for GM Air core motors. Doorman used to manufacture them but I think they stopped producing them
Does anyone know what the green tapped up wiring harness, with a connector at the end of it, wrapped in gray foam on the right bottom of the gauge cluster is for? What accessory is it suppose to be for that it isn't connected to? I have this same harness in my 1996 Suburban SLT 2500 7.4L 4x4. I do have the rear hatch button and rear wiper switch already in this location, so it's not for those. What other options could it go to? If anyone else knows please let me know. The only thing else I can think about is I have seen other model years with a airbag key switch for turning on or off the passenger airbag and my Suburban doesn't have a passenger airbag and it has the 2 cups holder on the passenger dash. Was it possible for that option of airbag? Please let me know if anyone knows. Thanks 👍
what weight silicone oil did you use? and based upon the performance of your fix, what weight do you think best?
Deplorable Irredeemable hey man sorry for the late reply. The fix was moderate at best. I used 100k rc silicone diff fluid. I’d probably go thicker if I were to attempt again. That being said, the motors are available on eBay and that may be the way to go. I can’t say for sure because I no longer have or even have access to another obs to test on. Hope this helps
@@DmonkeyProductions , I tried 20,000 CST, and that was clearly too viscous for me. The shaft basically got stuck and would not respond. I also simply cut the side of the metal case to expose the shaft using a grinding wheel, rather than remove the resistor pack and case. I then simply drilled a hole. Note that there are some very fine wires covering one side of the yellow shaft, so avoid cutting on that side obviously. I did not have much trouble using a syringe through the drilled hole, rather than over the needle shaft. I then used a glue gun to cap it off after filling. In any case, I will have to order a new one. The label on my gauge was >F3G 22 50 (hard to read). 99 Suburban k1500 5.8L. And of course, right after reassembling, the temp gauge stopped working so now I will have to debug that also.
@@deplorableirredeemable6276 thank you for sharing. do you have a video on the repair that you made?🤔 is it still working 🤔
I have a 2000 chevy 3500 HD same problem
don't worry bout that extra wire behind the cluster its factory my 99 Tahoe has the exact same setup.
for sure! Thanks for the info!
I think it maybe for some extra features like 4wheel drive with the auto transfer case or something in that area as they have that are that has nothing on it mine has4x4 but has a manual transfer case but still has that connector behind the instrument cluster.
SuperJeremi10
Mine has the electronic shift and still has it. I could probably find out what it is but if it's factory, I wont worry about it
haha seems to be its in mine.
SuperJeremi10 no
I think it’s a great video it showed a lot of other things I needed to do. Like replace the twist out bulbs. I believe their T3 & other sizes. My gas gauge was funky all other gauges were great after replacing my fuel pump & sender (I guess the sending unit fixed my gauge. )Thanks great video love the black cat!! I have 2 lol!!!
I really liked your video and thanks for showing the back, but how did you know it was your gauge and not the fuel sending unit?
Were the other needles working properly? I thought if the gas gauge itself was faulty all of the needles had to be.
I can't "drop the tank" to replace the fuel sending unit because I have no access panel.
I have an 05 Impala if that helps.
queenfubi sending unit was replaced first with a reputable company. All my other gauges were working properly, yes. I know in the 2005 trucks, the gauge stepper motors die and wig out but that’s different than what I experienced with this Tahoe. Hope this helps.
Dmonkey Thanks alot for reading and answering my questions.
My problem is slightly different but seems close.
You said your needle was flopping around.
Mine just moves twice, once to go from empty to full when I start it, then once again about 20 seconds later to go back to empty. It stays at empty until the next time I start the car.
I do hear a funny sound from the dash just before the gauge drops to empty though.
I know you can't diagnose my car but does that sound like the fuel sending unit? Stepper motor?
queenfubi on the newer clusters, they have motors in them that sweep the gauges like the ones in my video. The difference is that they’re newer and also solder in to the cluster where as mine pull out. It’s common for Chevy clusters to freak out because the factory stepper motors (gauge motors) were junk. Search Chevy stepper motor problem and see what results you get. I can’t tell you if it’s that or your sending unit though unfortunately :(
Dmonkey Thanks. I will definitely search now.
I didn't even know there were motors behind the instrument panel until I saw your video. Now it's starting to make sense!
Do U know what might be the problem on my 97 chevy silverado my rpm and mph not working it just gave out last week hopefully it can be an easy fix
hh bendy it's your multi function switch.
How do you access the inside of the cluster? Are there screws or tabs holding it together? I can't seem to figure it out.
+1bigtx Hey, there are clips on each side of the cluster.
+Dmonkey Productions +Dmonkey Productions Sorry to bother you I know you said you sold your Tahoe but i hope you remember and would be able to help me with a quick question:
once you get the clear plastic cover off the cluster and the needles
there are no other screws or clips to get the face off. I just pry it
off slowly and evenly? Also can i just replace the motors? Thank you for your help, trying to do this on my own without sending the cluster away to get fixed. Save some money for bigger projects lol
Mongo L
Yes, I just pried it slowly and evenly to make sure I wasn't breaking anything. One of the areas where I was defeated was sourcing new motors to put in. I tried a junkyard cluster and even swapped some around to no avail. If it is in fact a problem in the motor, I wasn't able to verify it. It still bothers me a little lol.
I know how the saving money thing goes. The money and not wanting to send it off and not have that be the problem kept me from messing with it.
Good luck, be careful when you pop it apart, don't break anything!
Had same issue with my 97 wasent cluster it was the sending unit on fuel pump
You right I had a spare cluster and it did the same.
my 1998 chevy silverado 6.5 diesal fuel guage will not go below half a tank i fill it right up and it will go down but not below half please help before i run out of deisal
What was the problem in the first place. U never said or mentioned
One would have to know. That was the problem. I ended up selling it before I could find out.
@@DmonkeyProductions the fuel gage. Twitching. Or not working?
@@Fony_turgeson twitching. It would bounce around with fuel slosh. Apparently it’s the stepper motors but the link to them died
@Dmonkey yea I think they all do that. Mine does that. But reads fine
how did you open the case, i have an issue with gas and temp gauge
Take a flat head screwdriver and just lift under the gauge side of the cluster, It'll pop right off.
Just fixed mine. I just replaced the stepper motor completely, Right as rain now. Ebay has them for $40. Good video but had a hard time hearing you
I apologize for the trash sound in the video. I agree that it can be difficult to hear me. Would you mind linking me to the ebay listing?
www.ebay.com/itm/F-95-96-97-98-GM-TRUCK-INSTRUMENT-CLUSTER-FUEL-GAUGE-AIRCORE-STEPPER-MOTOR-/371343797095?fits=Year%3A1999%7CModel%3ATahoe&hash=item5675d0ab67:g:vWAAAOxycgVTfmQt&vxp=mtr
Darrell Johnson when this was going on, I crawled all over the Internet looking for those. Damn that would have been convenient. I wish I still had it :(
Hey darrell, did you need to "reprogram" or "re-calibrate" the cluster like the ebay link says? If so, how did you go about doing that?
Thanks!
Is it the same motor for the oil pressure gauge..
Hello, how are you? after 3 years, how is the repair?
Klinger Pinheiro it didn’t work all that well. I ended up selling the Tahoe due to lack of using it.
my 99 tahoe gas gauge said a 8th of a tank and my gas tank was empty any idea how to fix that
Oh and do you happen to know what the name of those "motors" are called?? Thanks
+TheMRMARK1 That unfortunately becomes the larger issue. I wasnt able to locate a source for them or a part number. Sadly, I sold the Tahoe in May so I've lost interest in trying to locate them. It may be possible to source them from a company that does gauge cluster repairs. Thanks again for your comments, they're really appreciated!
Stepper motors
@@parmadj wrong. They're called air core motors.
I just did this last not, i replaced the motoer for the fuel gauge and i have a full tank so i hope this worked. I dont want to spend 160 on a fuel sending unit if thats not the problem.
That's exactly what I did, bought a new pump for nothing :( Did the motor end up fixing your problem?
I think you do a great job explaining what you are doing but I could hardly hear what you were saying half the time it was frustrating.
wanda Britton thank you for the comment. I was filming with a stock iPhone mic which at the time was not great. I still don’t have a good setup lol
Fuel pump issue? I've been plagued by this f*ck*r for 7 years! ...Fact - the
old after market/replacement fuel pumps had an issue with grounding
properly- actually the connector and pigtail connector to replacement
fuel pumps- typically if you've had your fuel pump replaced between
1999-2010 or 20011 ... I have a 99 burban and I swapped cluster ( after 5
years of other efforts) thinking it was FINALLY fixing my issue but it
did not (2 other clusters had fluttering fuel gauge as well) so I now know it's not stepper motor, it's definitely a ground issue- at the very least a ground issue
somewhere (pump? wire harness/connector???) plus a lot of research -too much... I am finally replacing my pump this weekend and will
try to post update.... symptoms should be "needle starts shaking after
fuel pump is replaced (replaced between 2000 -2011) symptoms also
include - first it either doesn't shake or shakes but works then slowly erodes (fuel pump is
getting older and starting to go bad/die) then needle stops working
(just shakes in one spot or random spots) then eventually, within a year
or so the fuel pump fails completely ...
and this part is just my opinion and theory but
more research lead me to believe the individuals who replaced fuel pump
to no avail, DID NOT install/replace the updated pig tail wireharness
that came with new (after 2011) fuel pump. Either because A. they did it
wrong B. Their mechanic did it wrong, C. they or mechanic simply didn't
bother to replace new harness/pigtail bc they were lazy or didn't know or D. they bought a new
fuel pump that was made before the updated pig tail. The older "new
replacement" fuel pumps (made before 2010) on Amazon, autozone (especially auto zone),
etc. do not have the updated wire harness/pigtail ... I also noticed that GM improved the wire harness simply bc they were getting complaints leading up to 2010 bc this issue was even happening at dealer mechanic bc they (fuel pumps) are all all made in china and their aren't 2,3, or 4 gm fuel pump manufacturing plants in china, just 1 !!! Which proves my other theory - the difference between a $70 chinese fuel pump or anything and a $150+ chinese fuel pump is , well nothing ... they're all made in the same factory ... hope this helps some, I will try to update after NEW pump is installed ...
Hey John. Did you ever fix your issue? My 2000 Yukon gauge goes to either completely empty or completely full. The needle also constantly buzzing, so it looks blurry. I think someone replaced the fuel pump in this car because I can see a wire splice back by the tank which leads me to believe someone spliced a harness in, which sounds like what you are talking to. Let me know. I 'd hate to buy a stepper motor and go through all that trouble to find out it wasn't the stepper motor.
Show less
REPLY
after fixing where do you set the needle to full empty or does it adjust it's self
Doggiexyxy
WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO SOLDER ON THE PANEL
i see the temp gauge is shot as well, same fix for it
I have been a mechanic all my life and this will not will not work
Why?
I have a problem with my Tahoe I need to replace the connection to the fuel pump because itleaks on to the gas tank
The miles stay in your computer anyway even if you disconnect it
Will wd40 work
YOU'RE NOT SHOWING THIS PROCESS OF HOW OR WHAT TO SOLDER.
I had a problem with my Silverado 1998 my bro in law told me “hey your gonna need to fix your fuel pump, cause it’s going to
Go out on you “ like
You skipped the part where you disassemble the stepper motor.
You kind of explained it but didnt quite show it.
Jose Hernandez Sorry about that, if I remember right, it just pulls out of the back of the board it’s stuck to. I didn’t take the motor apart, I just punctured a hole in it with a hot needle and forced silicone oil into it. If you look in the description, you’ll see a link to a source another youtuber found to just replace the motor itself. I don’t want to tell you to spend 40 bucks because that’s a lot of money on a guess but that was my next move since injecting it with silicone made it better, but didn’t fix it. Sadly I don’t have the Tahoe or the cluster anymore
Dmonkey ok thank you. I appreciate it.
Same thing for me. I actually swapped it for a new stepper motor figured out how to remove the resistor but unfortunately didnt work for me either.
Jose Hernandez good ole Chevy. :/
How difficult is it to replace the glass
The gauge cluster plastic? Not very
Why I prefer mechanical gauges by auto meter
I used KY jelly cause that's all I had...and it fuckin worked 😂😂 og ...thanks for d video💯💯💯
Thanks, but a lot more work than it's worth, in my opinion.
ok you suppose to change the fuel pump, I had same problem do to a 19 yr OEM fuel pump , after you. change fuel pump problem in gauge should be fix
It had two new fuel pumps with sending units.
Mine didn’t work
There's som little letters put a mark on it
A year later lol the truck died on me due to a bad fuel pump thru out the whole one year . The gauge just kept dancing worst and worst lol . So 2 days later went to go buy and fuel pump and install it . Right away when I turn on the fuel gauge stop dancing so y’all should try to get a fuel pump before doing all that crazy stuff to the dashboard
Edwin Aleman Hey man thanks for the comment. I need to address one thing real quick: mine was doing this after a new quality OE fuel pump replacement. This video was more about exploring what I could do after I threw a bunch of money at the problem.
Exactly
YOU CAN BUY A GAS GAUGE AND RUN IT TO THE SENDING UNIT . THE SAME THANG HAPPEN TO MIND AND IT BAD THAT IT SPINS AROUND. SO I SPENT $ 21 FOR THE GAUGE AT AUTO ZONE.I LET U KNOW IF IT WARKS.
omg thank you
This a great videooooo Gooodd Job!
Thank you!
thx for the video.. it helped me out..
Thanks man, I'm sorry I didn't get it fixed, I'm thinking about picking up another OBS and maybe I can actually solve the problem.....
Did anyone notice his temperature gauge wasn't working
It actually did work, truck was cold. It worked all the way through when I sold it.
HE SAID LEAVE IT LOOKIN LIKE IT WAS STOLEN......HAHAHAHA
THATS FUNNY I HAVE A 96 LIFTED TAHOE AND MY SHIT GOT STOLEN.....
low audio
My tahoes got 235,200 on it also haha hell ya
I've got a 99 Tahoe with 274k 🤣
Interesting tear down of these motors
ruclips.net/video/avkllsIFcf0/видео.html
Might help folks see where to poke holes to get the oil in.
You can just go to your local wrecking yard and purchase a used instrument cluster. . And be done with it....its just a thought. ...thanks for the video.
I did that about a month ago. I went around and found three potential clusters. I then cook the plastic off the front and moved the gauged on each one and bought the best feeling. I got home and tried it out.. to no avail.
How did you remove the resistor?
Jose Hernandez everything I did was filmed