I have spent the last few hours watching your videos, you are producing the most informative videos. No commercial slant, no boring nonsense just good film doing it as it's ment to be done. Thank you and keep ot up, please.
Cheers. One good tip I can give you for the Puk5 is that 9ct yellow hates being welded on the "gold" setting but welds great if you set it to "brass". Have fun.
I have a job on a 8 claw 18ct gold ring that I am going to do tomorrow so will give that a go, do you have the setting on fine or do you lower the time etc? So many people benefit from open source learning, its great.
@@sammccrone2971 For tipping I always use the mode on the left of the 5 at the bottom of the screen. For the average claw start off at 20% power and increase it if you need more power (err on the side of caution). If you need to add gold to build up down the outside of the claw, use the middle of the 5 modes at the bottom of the screen, it works nice.
@@TheDrMoroz Silver welds differently to other metals. With other metals, the metal gets sucked in towards the electrode. With silver it gets pushed away instead. This alters the way you have to weld it. Think about that before you weld it and try the different silver modes on the PUK.
I have tried welding some brass fittings and no matter what welding mode and power/time configuration I tried it would not weld. Maybe adding another metal into the weld might help but somehow I have my doubts.
That is one of the best and most informative video I have seen yet in relation to PUK welding. I have recently purchased the puk 5 and am having a great time learning the basics, this is one area I have had trouble with, so thanks. one thing that is missing is how to finish the gold/silver off after tipping, what method do you use?
Great to hear the videos are helping. On rounded claws like this I use a cup drill to round them off and a rubber wheel to remove any burr or saucering the cup drill leaves. On traditional square type claws I use a setter's file (triangular profile with worn edges so as not to mark the stone) to file the end flat and the sides and top of the part that is over the stone slightly tapered, then burnish it so it's easy to polish. I then use a rubber wheel to neaten down the outside of the claw then file any sharp edges off so the claws aren't catchy. It would be very difficult to film but I will look into it.
I have spent the last few hours watching your videos, you are producing the most informative videos. No commercial slant, no boring nonsense just good film doing it as it's ment to be done. Thank you and keep ot up, please.
Cheers. One good tip I can give you for the Puk5 is that 9ct yellow hates being welded on the "gold" setting but welds great if you set it to "brass". Have fun.
I have a job on a 8 claw 18ct gold ring that I am going to do tomorrow so will give that a go, do you have the setting on fine or do you lower the time etc? So many people benefit from open source learning, its great.
@@sammccrone2971 For tipping I always use the mode on the left of the 5 at the bottom of the screen. For the average claw start off at 20% power and increase it if you need more power (err on the side of caution). If you need to add gold to build up down the outside of the claw, use the middle of the 5 modes at the bottom of the screen, it works nice.
@@tribletman could you also give advice for silver? Maybe explain basical principles? Thank you
@@TheDrMoroz Silver welds differently to other metals. With other metals, the metal gets sucked in towards the electrode. With silver it gets pushed away instead. This alters the way you have to weld it. Think about that before you weld it and try the different silver modes on the PUK.
Amazing help wow
I have never tried to weld brass, so can't really say. I will be in my workshop on Monday and will try it.
Hi, that's beautiful work! Tell me, can this welder weld brass? I am struggling to get good results on my PUK 4 . . .
I have tried welding some brass fittings and no matter what welding mode and power/time configuration I tried it would not weld. Maybe adding another metal into the weld might help but somehow I have my doubts.
That is one of the best and most informative video I have seen yet in relation to PUK welding. I have recently purchased the puk 5 and am having a great time learning the basics, this is one area I have had trouble with, so thanks. one thing that is missing is how to finish the gold/silver off after tipping, what method do you use?
Great to hear the videos are helping. On rounded claws like this I use a cup drill to round them off and a rubber wheel to remove any burr or saucering the cup drill leaves. On traditional square type claws I use a setter's file (triangular profile with worn edges so as not to mark the stone) to file the end flat and the sides and top of the part that is over the stone slightly tapered, then burnish it so it's easy to polish. I then use a rubber wheel to neaten down the outside of the claw then file any sharp edges off so the claws aren't catchy. It would be very difficult to film but I will look into it.
What kind of settings would you use or plat?
IS THE NIDLE TUGSTEN?
Yes
@@tribletman thanks a lot I’ll try hay one.