I'm glad this one hit home. Wasn't sure if I'd overdone the detail but I'm glad it's helpful. I'll have a follow up soon with more on the speed issue. Gotta work out why it didn't go like the XDKJ-006, which it really should have!
@@RCTNT Also yours isn’t the revised one addressing the battery issue. The screw you encountered and drive shaft rub. New revisions battery is moved forward 5mm and foam pad underneath.
That's exactly right. Same issue as months ago on older xdkj models. Worth mentioning because that's what I have in front of me, but I did note in the video that they've addressed the battery tray fitment :)
I bought the 144001 when I was sick with the coof and man what a great little buggy. Fast, handles well, got me out of the house and into the parking lot, could sit down and get some fresh air and have some giggles. One thing about the coof is brain fog. The 144001 really helped exercise the noodle. When I first got it I could steer for the life of me even though I've been into r/c since the 80's....after a few days it all started to come back. (to tell you how bad the brain fog was: I had to go to the pharmacy to get some meds and there were 10 empty spots and I couldn't decide where to park. Literally my brain got stuck in neutral).
I'm glad that was a useful tool to help you get the gears turning. I haven't had cv (yet) but the brain fog is real! That experience of being in mental neutral is well familiar, I've literally had that same problem with parking. That's a disruption to executive function, I bet. There are good drugs to assist with this today but it sucks that such effects are so widespread. Hope you're back up to speed now, my friend.
@@RCTNT Yeah, it sucked bigtime. I couldn't decide what to eat, and I had to make some half lap joints in lumber....Cutting to length was fine, but when it came to actually cutting the joint, I was stuck....(there's like 5 different ways to do it and I couldn't decide on which way to go). I've done it maybe, 1000x? so it should have been a no brainer. Yup, pretty much back up to 100% now....well, as close to how I was before the coof anyways lol....
I think you got a bad one, or a flat battery. Others have gotten 40mph on 2s and 57mph on 3s. check throttle trim might be set to low. Also check slipper clutch might be to lose and car is slow.
Thanks. I've fixed it today. Found a problem with binding in the gears. Speeds and performance are now as you'd expect and motor heat is way down. I'll explain in the video follow up coming soon :)
An excellent question. It's the same hardware as the XDKJ-006, so clearly something isn't right. I checked the radio and the gear mesh during the review but found the car to be notchy. I'm going to pull it apart and see if I can find what's binding and will do a follow up video with some basics to check if anyone else has the same experience with this or similar cars. It's a mystery for now but we'll work it out!
I got my AM-X12 and it is a great build for $150. Mine was missing a shock mount spacer so they didn't QC it that well. So after noticing that, I inspected it some more. Looking at the front sway bar fitment, I noticed it touches the front driveshafts when the suspension is compressed. Other than that, it runs good and will run 3S soon.
Bit of a reality check on the Rlaarlos… Mine arrived with a slight twist in the chassis so it’s trying to tripod on three wheels only. Two of the wheels are also really bent and distorted. After 10 emails with videos and photos which clearly show the defects I’m still getting fobbed off by Rlaarlo. Last reply they offered me a $15 credit… the chassis and wheels cost $64 to replace. It’s a shame because most of the car looks ok. My advice… if you buy one do it assuming there is no refund policy and you’ll have to buy a few more parts to start with.
Geez that's pretty rough. It's at odds with what I've heard from others here in the channel comments. If you're telling the full story here (I trust you, but it's an important qualifier), then could there be someone else to escalate this one to? I've always found the company to be responsive - not as a media maker but as a customer. I've secret shopped them a few times over the past year, and I did get a hugely long wait time one time, but they've always gone to efforts to fix the problem. I really hope they come to the party for you too.
I've seen the comments but in rlaarlo's defense, the carbon fibre models I've had from them have been solid. Look at my 005 skate park video, or the AK-917 speed test series. It's not just an assumption that these chasses are tough, I've shown on camera just how resilient they are. They've also sent me a full new CF chassis for my ultimate AK-917 build that's coming this year and it's gorgeous. I haven't had an issue with their CF, basically. I feel for folks who have, but it just hasn't been my experience.
VERY GOOD REVIEW👍 it's a good price at the initial price. I've found the ESC to be underpowered for this stretched version and the oddly loud drivetrain doesn't help.
Thanks! I've fixed the initial issues I had with this and the updated review drops in 24 hours. It addresses both the esc and the noise - I agree, and it could benefit from a 60A unit. Mesh was too loose, which made it loud! Cheers
Good review. Do you think it could be one of the wheels being too tight causing friction. Would pull one wheel at a time and see if the grinding/notch goes away. Back when the Wltoys 124017 v1 released it had high 27t pinion and cogging from the high gearing, before the v2 with a 19t pinion released there was an article on quadify about modding a 15t pinion, just needed to bore it out to 3.2mm. I did the 15t pinion to mine and really like the throttle resolution it gave, no more feeling like it was no throttle or full throttle all the time. I have both the wltoys 124017 and 124019 that I upgraded with LC Racing sway bars. I can't reasonably say they are an upgrade. I would say the Brushed 124019 seems the better option if you want a more direct feel for throttle. The brushless feels like it still has lag/delay with a Dumbo RC and stock ESC. For example if you do a full reverse with the brushed system then flick the steering to do a 180 degree turn and hit full forward throttle its gonna do it without hesitation.
That's some great info! Certainly brushed will give you a better throttle response than brushless, at least until you get to more expensive sensored systems. I've got this thing sorted now. Stripped it down, found the problem, fixed and then rebuilt with some tuning at the same time. It's a different car now. I'll release a follow up video for it in a couple of days. It's much better now!
In my experience with the Wltoys 12418, which btw has the exact same tires as this AM-X12, except for the rim color, these cars are set to roll a lot. After fiting the LC-Racing sway-bar kit for the comparable 144001 model (only front one, as with the different damper setup on the 12418, there was no way to fit a rear sway bar), even after filling the diffs with oil (and checking the dampers had oil, too), it felt as the rear was getting a ton of inner-wheel traction loss, so springs were too soft. Yes, of course, with a stock car you had this effect lessened, but it still had too much traction roll, IMO, on grippier surfaces. It was probably set up for un-packed soil, and well away from a carpet or tarmac. I do have two questions about the Rlaarlos. Do the spares/accessories bag come with every model, or are these only for the internet reviewers? Also, what was the grindy, uneven noise the drivetrain made once you first started it? you said you'd put it together, but I might have missed it, and then at the end you mention it was noisier, but I don't recall hearing what was the actual issue with it. Cheers for probably one of the most comprehensive reviews we'll ever see of these. Love getting technical and geeky over even the small, cheaper options, as there's always something cool to learn.
Thanks Yoshi. The spares bags come with their cars, it's a great inclusion. They have good parts support, too. (and good communication behind the scenes also, I've found them to be a friendly and responsive lot, which is a big part of why I'm happy to keep accepting their cars). The noise is going to be related to the low speed we had. It should have given us the same performance as the XDKJ-006 but it didn't. Something may be binding, I'm not sure yet but I'll work it out and report back in a follow up video soon.
My calculations are correct. Throttle rate is at max. But I did notice the car felt and sounded notchy, despite checking gear mesh during the video. I'm going to pull it apart and see if I can find something binding. I agree, it should have given us the same numbers as the XDKJ-006, given they're the same hardware.
You're partly right. Was mesh, but there was also a friction problem... ruclips.net/video/SMlwuivumpQ/видео.html I've fed it back to the manufacturer at their request and they've discussed it with their assembly people. Shouldn't be a problem, moving forward. I like how these guys do business.
@@RCTNT I would agree they seem like a good company also the guy I had watched all In all said it was a meshing issue as well as a friction issue something about the sprocket on the motor rubbing on something. All due respect to him he was the one who reported it first I was just a relay. The product is good it just needs a little brushing up but I could never be mad at something like that at the 150 price range I would be more upset at the 250 entry fee.
It's seems like everyone gets different speeds. Urs is by far the slowest. Most others are doing 40's on 2s and high 50's on 3s. But they are all different for some reason
The finer differences will be down to altitude, battery, road conditions, wind, etc. But the big differences may be due to assembly challenges. I worked mine out and got more typical speeds in the second part of this review, which you can see here: ruclips.net/video/SMlwuivumpQ/видео.html Cheers :)
I'm interested in getting one, I wonder if they ship these pretaxed to EU like AliExpress or if I'll have to pay tax and customs on top? Because that would almost negate the sale
No idea but you could always reach out and ask them. I've found Rlaarlo to be responsive and interested and getting answers back to me promptly and I bet they'll give you the same level of help. No idea on the EU import stuff personally though sorry, but I'm sure you won't be the first to ask!
Thanks I have no knowledge of MJX Hyper Go, I'm sorry. I can't make a recommendation between them, but the AM-X12 is a fine machine for its size and price, for whatever that's worth!
Thanks. It comes with a T-connector. I solder my own adapters and in this case I'd have made a T-connector male to XT60 female adapter. I solder the tails of each plug together, back to back, so no wires are needed. Fast, easy, reliable :)
Thanks for another great review. I am an old man and sometimes grouchy. Could these companies please name their r/c cars? I think it would be better for the general public and me. Is the carbon fiber chassis a real plus or is it just a marketing tool? When you told us it had a 27T pinion, my first reaction was that this thing will get hot. Thanks for gong into all the detail.
That's one thing China hasn't got the hang of yet. With some exceptions, their cars mostly have crazy alphanumeric 'names', both their models and their full size 1:1 vehicles! That'll probably change eventually but it's noticeable now.
@@RCTNT aww it’s beautiful tbh I wanted to do a brushless conversion for my wltoys 124019 so if you have any info on what is a direct replacement fit servo and ecu for it I wanna get 60-70 mph minimum 2-3s max that be a great help. However this buggy all that carbon and just the look of it is amazing! I’m thinking after Xmas I’m gonna have to order one! Have you got any problems with it at all? How about spare parts?
Conversion first, this combo on 2600kv will give you about 85kph on 3s and it includes a servo. It's what I got for my 144001 with stock gearing and tires: Racerstar 3660 2600KV/3300KV/3800KV Brushless Motor 60A ESC 9KG Servo w/ M0.6 Metal Gears banggood.onelink.me/zMT7/ghv0p08w Then, I've removed that and installed a carbon fibre chassis, foam tires, 120A ESC and a 4000kv motor. Haven't speed tested it yet but I'm expecting about 120kph. Next will be a 5100kv motor, yet to be installed and tested. This is all on 3s. - I cover spares in this video for the AM-X12. It comes with many and you can buy anything for it on their site, too. Most parts are cross compatible between it and the 144001 and similar, which is helpful. I did have a problem with it: too slow. Fixed it in the next video I did ( ruclips.net/video/SMlwuivumpQ/видео.html ) - it's worth a watch if you're considering one of these. Cheers
@@RCTNT thanks so much for your reply. Do you think getting that combo using a 3300kv with same 60A esc 2/3s all else stock would be ok? Also do you have a link for any carbo parts for the purple buggy 1/12 scale? I think most important for me is direct fit electronics. Did you have any issues with delay or stuttering on initial pulling away after using these items? Never used banggood before. I’m based on the uk so I assume there is a wait time as they’re based on china right? Do you know if the screws used are just standard fit screw you can buy from any hardware store? Anyways thanks so much for your help .
3300kv would be okay, though you might hit cut-off on the ESC at full load for more than a second or two. Depends on how much load is on the motor. It might be okay. The electronics are a direct-fit, yes - though you'll need your own radio system, of course. I had no issues with cogging on the 2600kv motor and 27T gear, however I am trying to build a top-speed buggy so once you get to the higher-kv motors, cogging will happen. I even get that in my Infraction with standard gearing on 6S. They're not tuned for low-throttle. You *could* do that, but then you sacrifice top speed unless you get a sensored system, which isn't worth the money for this use case, IMO. The GT-5 is my fave all-rounder, you can grab that here: asiate.es/aff?l=150074&i=76070 (It has a built-in gyro in that receiver plus the radio has a 20-model memory and works with the cheap FS-A3 and FS-A6 receivers, which means huge flexibility with future model options). This is an excellent resource for what you're doing: www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/wl-toys-144001-upgrade-brushless-speed-run-build-and-setup-full-guide Screws are standard-fit, yep. Hardware stores don't tend to carry them, but BG definitely does. Just search the site, there are screws of all kinds in hobbyist size packs. It's great. I've been buying from BG for probably over a decade, though in recent times I've been significantly lowering my Chinese transactions and trying to buy local. Not always practical in Australia. But the company has reasonably good customer service and great prices. Your challenge in the UK may be import tax. Can't speak to that directly.
I didn't, but it made no difference when I did. I solved the speed in the follow up video - it was an assembly issue with the pinion. All sorted now :)
Hi. I have a problem with my new AM-12. Is it a servo problem? After rotating the remote controller wheel to the left or right, When you take your hands off the wheel, the tires and steering components should come to the center with the number 11, but they do not come to the center perfectly. So, loosening the screws on the second floor panel components a bit doesn't solve the problem. Is your AM-12 perfect?
You might be describing toe. The front wheels should not be parallel unless you're trying to drive very fast in a straight line. Instead, the wheels should be slightly angled apart towards the front, like \ / and not like I I This gives better cornering and stability.
Slipper was tight enough. I've had plenty of models with slippers before and ran an eye over it while presenting my video. But good news, I've found the problem, fixed it, tuned the buggy from end to end and just finished filming a follow up to the review. It's much better now. Not noisy, handles like you'd hope and has decent speed. And the motor doesn't cook now! All will be explained soon :)
@@RCTNT Thank you for doing thorough reviews like this on RC cars. I am 70 years old and just getting into the hobby. I purchased a AM-X12 and still awaiting its arrival. I will perform all of your suggested tuning once it arrives before I hit the ground running. One last question. Can the transmitter be changes for left hand steering?
@@bryanwinter3289 no worries, happy to be of assistance! The tx can't be changed, no. There aren't a lot of transmitters that can be. You can always buy a replacement set if you're really keen on it, but getting used to the standard config if you can will serve you well over multiple models. Your call, of course!
@@bryanwinter3289 alternatives are getting cheaper, and being able to bind multiple models to one left-compatible radio could be just fine. This thing comes with a radio so you can always change later if/when you expand your RC fleet!
There's just no way a battery that big would ever fit, and even if it did, it would ruin the performance! Best to use smaller batteries, maybe 1400mah to 2200mah 2s, then swap them out while you want to keep driving. The car will be faster, turn and stop better, run cooler, handle bumps and jumps better, all in exchange for the greater runtime of a heavier battery. It's a good exchange, IMO 😉
@RCTNT I'm glad I asked I just canceled my order for 5200 mah. I only have like 15 20mins run time on the factory 2800 battery and I bought a quick charger but it still takes 1hr and 15mins to charge 1 battery
You aren't using a quick charger then. If it takes an hour, you're charging at 1C, which is what is generally recommended. I generally charge my lipos at about 1.2C, but when I'm in a hurry, like at comps or when I want to use them right now, I'll charge my higher discharge ones (those that are 70C or higher rated) at up to 2C, and on occasion I've even charged at 4C. Higher charge rate means more heat and causes a little more wear to the cells, which is generally why 1C is recommended. For a 2800mah battery, a 1C charge rate is 2800mA. If you buy another 2800mah battery, you'll have longer runtime anyway. It's probably the best way to go.
I use Turnigy 700mah 50c packs but the bigger, heavier 2200mah 25C stick packs will fit too. More weight means worse handling, so keep that in mind. I wouldn't go above 2200mah 3s packs, as they'll be too large. Keep it under 1200mah for best results.
Something is wrong with yours. Maybe the esc isn’t calibrated right. All the other speed tests on this buggy on the internet are almost double what you came up with.
Problems have been found and fixed. Updated video drops in 12 hours :) It's certainly not twice as fast now but it's now comparable to the XDKJ-006, as you'd expect. Thanks for the info!
Haha, right. I have played around with my 144010 when we did the speed run series with the Rlaarlo cars last year. That was fun :) On this one, the standard pinion is good. Just had to fix the installation issue - the follow up video covered it and we got the promised speed 👍
It's better quality than wl toys ? It's almost the same ? Is much better ? I don't want to spend my money to buggy that reminds me wltoys and brake so easily , this buggy reminds me wltoys and this is very bad.
Similar to wltoys but with some unique improvements. See my XDKJ-006 Durability Test video, these things can take a hammering! Everything has its limits so if you buy one of these, just remember everything is made to a price and has its limits.
Hmm, it'll be the Cross RC BC8 Mammoth and the Boom Racing BRX01. Close behind those are the Traxxas TRX6 and Axial SCX6. For faster stuff, the Tekno SCT410 2.0 and my modified Losi LMT. Honourable mentions to Corally Kagama, Arrma Mojave 4S, Axial UTB18 and Vanquish VRD Carbon.
See the follow up video. This one was assembled with an issue that I diagnosed and fixed - pinion was too tight against the motor mount, causing considerable friction!
@@RCTNT I put a new esc in my 124007 cause I damaged the original. Now I have cogging can that be fixed with a programming card or do I need a different esc?
@chrisspearline767 could be several things causing cogging. Importantly, was it doing it before the esc swap or only after? And what were TNT circumstances of the esc failure?
@@RCTNT here's the thing I really don't know if it was doing it before. Right out of the box I fried the esc by trying to connect the battery to the esc and the receiver. I have an RC boat that connects to the boat at the same place it charges so I thought it had to connect. There's no diagram on how to connect the battery. Well anyway I bought a new esc and had to get a new servo as well. It runs now just cogging on start up. I just ordered a programming card but someone said gearing down is the only way to fix it. How do I gear down?
Thanks, noted. The low speed was so relevant to the conclusion here, I didn't want to cut it. The footage wasn't good, yes. I've improved since then, thankfully!
Another, very thorough review and speed test. There are so many of these buggies about now, review's like this are great. Thank you. 👍🏻
I'm glad this one hit home. Wasn't sure if I'd overdone the detail but I'm glad it's helpful. I'll have a follow up soon with more on the speed issue. Gotta work out why it didn't go like the XDKJ-006, which it really should have!
@@RCTNT Also yours isn’t the revised one addressing the battery issue. The screw you encountered and drive shaft rub. New revisions battery is moved forward 5mm and foam pad underneath.
That's exactly right. Same issue as months ago on older xdkj models. Worth mentioning because that's what I have in front of me, but I did note in the video that they've addressed the battery tray fitment :)
I bought the 144001 when I was sick with the coof and man what a great little buggy. Fast, handles well, got me out of the house and into the parking lot, could sit down and get some fresh air and have some giggles.
One thing about the coof is brain fog. The 144001 really helped exercise the noodle. When I first got it I could steer for the life of me even though I've been into r/c since the 80's....after a few days it all started to come back.
(to tell you how bad the brain fog was: I had to go to the pharmacy to get some meds and there were 10 empty spots and I couldn't decide where to park. Literally my brain got stuck in neutral).
I'm glad that was a useful tool to help you get the gears turning. I haven't had cv (yet) but the brain fog is real! That experience of being in mental neutral is well familiar, I've literally had that same problem with parking. That's a disruption to executive function, I bet. There are good drugs to assist with this today but it sucks that such effects are so widespread. Hope you're back up to speed now, my friend.
@@RCTNT Yeah, it sucked bigtime. I couldn't decide what to eat, and I had to make some half lap joints in lumber....Cutting to length was fine, but when it came to actually cutting the joint, I was stuck....(there's like 5 different ways to do it and I couldn't decide on which way to go). I've done it maybe, 1000x? so it should have been a no brainer.
Yup, pretty much back up to 100% now....well, as close to how I was before the coof anyways lol....
I think you got a bad one, or a flat battery. Others have gotten 40mph on 2s and 57mph on 3s. check throttle trim might be set to low. Also check slipper clutch might be to lose and car is slow.
Thanks. I've fixed it today. Found a problem with binding in the gears. Speeds and performance are now as you'd expect and motor heat is way down. I'll explain in the video follow up coming soon :)
@@RCTNT Good to hear.
@@RCTNT it did look very slow. thanks for the update - looking forward to seeing it in action again.
Given how little they cost for what you get, I think we can forgive some minor parts positioning! They're a great little car to learn to tune on :)
Nice job man You always do a very thorough job!!
Thanks Nathan! Follow to video drops tomorrow with some important info that changes my conclusion here, if you're considering this one. Cheers
Why is the top speed so low? other reviewers have been getting much higher top speeds on 2 and 3S
An excellent question. It's the same hardware as the XDKJ-006, so clearly something isn't right. I checked the radio and the gear mesh during the review but found the car to be notchy. I'm going to pull it apart and see if I can find what's binding and will do a follow up video with some basics to check if anyone else has the same experience with this or similar cars. It's a mystery for now but we'll work it out!
I got my AM-X12 and it is a great build for $150. Mine was missing a shock mount spacer so they didn't QC it that well. So after noticing that, I inspected it some more. Looking at the front sway bar fitment, I noticed it touches the front driveshafts when the suspension is compressed. Other than that, it runs good and will run 3S soon.
Nice one, Hugh. Looking it over is well worth the time. The running gear is great once you get it dialled in!
Bit of a reality check on the Rlaarlos… Mine arrived with a slight twist in the chassis so it’s trying to tripod on three wheels only. Two of the wheels are also really bent and distorted.
After 10 emails with videos and photos which clearly show the defects I’m still getting fobbed off by Rlaarlo. Last reply they offered me a $15 credit… the chassis and wheels cost $64 to replace.
It’s a shame because most of the car looks ok. My advice… if you buy one do it assuming there is no refund policy and you’ll have to buy a few more parts to start with.
Geez that's pretty rough. It's at odds with what I've heard from others here in the channel comments. If you're telling the full story here (I trust you, but it's an important qualifier), then could there be someone else to escalate this one to?
I've always found the company to be responsive - not as a media maker but as a customer. I've secret shopped them a few times over the past year, and I did get a hugely long wait time one time, but they've always gone to efforts to fix the problem. I really hope they come to the party for you too.
Check out the complaints of the carbon fiber, very questionable
I've seen the comments but in rlaarlo's defense, the carbon fibre models I've had from them have been solid. Look at my 005 skate park video, or the AK-917 speed test series. It's not just an assumption that these chasses are tough, I've shown on camera just how resilient they are. They've also sent me a full new CF chassis for my ultimate AK-917 build that's coming this year and it's gorgeous. I haven't had an issue with their CF, basically.
I feel for folks who have, but it just hasn't been my experience.
Another one of your collection has increased 👍 nice👌😆🤝
Keeps happening, yeah!
@@RCTNT 👍😁
VERY GOOD REVIEW👍 it's a good price at the initial price. I've found the ESC to be underpowered for this stretched version and the oddly loud drivetrain doesn't help.
Thanks! I've fixed the initial issues I had with this and the updated review drops in 24 hours. It addresses both the esc and the noise - I agree, and it could benefit from a 60A unit. Mesh was too loose, which made it loud! Cheers
Good review. Do you think it could be one of the wheels being too tight causing friction. Would pull one wheel at a time and see if the grinding/notch goes away. Back when the Wltoys 124017 v1 released it had high 27t pinion and cogging from the high gearing, before the v2 with a 19t pinion released there was an article on quadify about modding a 15t pinion, just needed to bore it out to 3.2mm. I did the 15t pinion to mine and really like the throttle resolution it gave, no more feeling like it was no throttle or full throttle all the time.
I have both the wltoys 124017 and 124019 that I upgraded with LC Racing sway bars. I can't reasonably say they are an upgrade.
I would say the Brushed 124019 seems the better option if you want a more direct feel for throttle. The brushless feels like it still has lag/delay with a Dumbo RC and stock ESC. For example if you do a full reverse with the brushed system then flick the steering to do a 180 degree turn and hit full forward throttle its gonna do it without hesitation.
That's some great info! Certainly brushed will give you a better throttle response than brushless, at least until you get to more expensive sensored systems.
I've got this thing sorted now. Stripped it down, found the problem, fixed and then rebuilt with some tuning at the same time. It's a different car now. I'll release a follow up video for it in a couple of days. It's much better now!
Just brilliant. Thanks for sharing. John
My pleasure! This thing gets better, too, by the way. I've found what was holding it back. Follow up video coming this week. Cheers
In my experience with the Wltoys 12418, which btw has the exact same tires as this AM-X12, except for the rim color, these cars are set to roll a lot.
After fiting the LC-Racing sway-bar kit for the comparable 144001 model (only front one, as with the different damper setup on the 12418, there was no way to fit a rear sway bar), even after filling the diffs with oil (and checking the dampers had oil, too), it felt as the rear was getting a ton of inner-wheel traction loss, so springs were too soft. Yes, of course, with a stock car you had this effect lessened, but it still had too much traction roll, IMO, on grippier surfaces. It was probably set up for un-packed soil, and well away from a carpet or tarmac.
I do have two questions about the Rlaarlos. Do the spares/accessories bag come with every model, or are these only for the internet reviewers?
Also, what was the grindy, uneven noise the drivetrain made once you first started it? you said you'd put it together, but I might have missed it, and then at the end you mention it was noisier, but I don't recall hearing what was the actual issue with it.
Cheers for probably one of the most comprehensive reviews we'll ever see of these. Love getting technical and geeky over even the small, cheaper options, as there's always something cool to learn.
Thanks Yoshi. The spares bags come with their cars, it's a great inclusion. They have good parts support, too. (and good communication behind the scenes also, I've found them to be a friendly and responsive lot, which is a big part of why I'm happy to keep accepting their cars).
The noise is going to be related to the low speed we had. It should have given us the same performance as the XDKJ-006 but it didn't. Something may be binding, I'm not sure yet but I'll work it out and report back in a follow up video soon.
Either your buggy is faulty or you have the dual speed rate turned down but your calculations seem to be off..
My calculations are correct. Throttle rate is at max. But I did notice the car felt and sounded notchy, despite checking gear mesh during the video. I'm going to pull it apart and see if I can find something binding. I agree, it should have given us the same numbers as the XDKJ-006, given they're the same hardware.
It's probably definitely the gear meshing I ve been watching videos on this car all day and that's exactly the problem one of the guys were having
You're partly right. Was mesh, but there was also a friction problem...
ruclips.net/video/SMlwuivumpQ/видео.html
I've fed it back to the manufacturer at their request and they've discussed it with their assembly people. Shouldn't be a problem, moving forward. I like how these guys do business.
@@RCTNT I would agree they seem like a good company also the guy I had watched all In all said it was a meshing issue as well as a friction issue something about the sprocket on the motor rubbing on something. All due respect to him he was the one who reported it first I was just a relay. The product is good it just needs a little brushing up but I could never be mad at something like that at the 150 price range I would be more upset at the 250 entry fee.
I'm pretty sure I'm that guy you're talking about - see the linked video in my last reply :D
It's seems like everyone gets different speeds. Urs is by far the slowest. Most others are doing 40's on 2s and high 50's on 3s. But they are all different for some reason
The finer differences will be down to altitude, battery, road conditions, wind, etc. But the big differences may be due to assembly challenges. I worked mine out and got more typical speeds in the second part of this review, which you can see here: ruclips.net/video/SMlwuivumpQ/видео.html
Cheers :)
I'm interested in getting one, I wonder if they ship these pretaxed to EU like AliExpress or if I'll have to pay tax and customs on top? Because that would almost negate the sale
No idea but you could always reach out and ask them. I've found Rlaarlo to be responsive and interested and getting answers back to me promptly and I bet they'll give you the same level of help. No idea on the EU import stuff personally though sorry, but I'm sure you won't be the first to ask!
Another great video!! Appreciate the honest review & not just a plug‼️👍👍🦾🦾
Thanks, you can expect that here always. Appreciate the comment :)
Must not have had the throttle trim turned up from the get go. Never seen the ~20mph on 2s at WOT.
It was an installation issue, actually. Pinion was grinding on the motor mount. I explained, fixed and retested on the follow-up video 👍
Cool deal, I will check it out@@RCTNT
@RC-TNT Nice video, what would you recommend this AM-X12 or MJX Hyper Go 16207
Thanks
I have no knowledge of MJX Hyper Go, I'm sorry. I can't make a recommendation between them, but the AM-X12 is a fine machine for its size and price, for whatever that's worth!
Nice review! :) What adapter are you using for that battery?
Thanks. It comes with a T-connector. I solder my own adapters and in this case I'd have made a T-connector male to XT60 female adapter. I solder the tails of each plug together, back to back, so no wires are needed. Fast, easy, reliable :)
Thanks for another great review. I am an old man and sometimes grouchy. Could these companies please name their r/c cars? I think it would be better for the general public and me. Is the carbon fiber chassis a real plus or is it just a marketing tool? When you told us it had a 27T pinion, my first reaction was that this thing will get hot. Thanks for gong into all the detail.
That's one thing China hasn't got the hang of yet. With some exceptions, their cars mostly have crazy alphanumeric 'names', both their models and their full size 1:1 vehicles! That'll probably change eventually but it's noticeable now.
I must admit I love 4wd buggies used to have Tamiya then went to 124019 loved it but this looks really nice .
It's a great looking buggy, isn't it. My first rc car was a buggy, back in 1990 or so.
@@RCTNT aww it’s beautiful tbh I wanted to do a brushless conversion for my wltoys 124019 so if you have any info on what is a direct replacement fit servo and ecu for it I wanna get 60-70 mph minimum 2-3s max that be a great help.
However this buggy all that carbon and just the look of it is amazing! I’m thinking after Xmas I’m gonna have to order one!
Have you got any problems with it at all? How about spare parts?
Conversion first, this combo on 2600kv will give you about 85kph on 3s and it includes a servo. It's what I got for my 144001 with stock gearing and tires:
Racerstar 3660 2600KV/3300KV/3800KV Brushless Motor 60A ESC 9KG Servo w/ M0.6 Metal Gears
banggood.onelink.me/zMT7/ghv0p08w
Then, I've removed that and installed a carbon fibre chassis, foam tires, 120A ESC and a 4000kv motor. Haven't speed tested it yet but I'm expecting about 120kph. Next will be a 5100kv motor, yet to be installed and tested. This is all on 3s.
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I cover spares in this video for the AM-X12. It comes with many and you can buy anything for it on their site, too. Most parts are cross compatible between it and the 144001 and similar, which is helpful.
I did have a problem with it: too slow. Fixed it in the next video I did ( ruclips.net/video/SMlwuivumpQ/видео.html ) - it's worth a watch if you're considering one of these. Cheers
@@RCTNT thanks so much for your reply. Do you think getting that combo using a 3300kv with same 60A esc 2/3s all else stock would be ok?
Also do you have a link for any carbo parts for the purple buggy 1/12 scale?
I think most important for me is direct fit electronics.
Did you have any issues with delay or stuttering on initial pulling away after using these items?
Never used banggood before. I’m based on the uk so I assume there is a wait time as they’re based on china right?
Do you know if the screws used are just standard fit screw you can buy from any hardware store?
Anyways thanks so much for your help .
3300kv would be okay, though you might hit cut-off on the ESC at full load for more than a second or two. Depends on how much load is on the motor. It might be okay. The electronics are a direct-fit, yes - though you'll need your own radio system, of course.
I had no issues with cogging on the 2600kv motor and 27T gear, however I am trying to build a top-speed buggy so once you get to the higher-kv motors, cogging will happen. I even get that in my Infraction with standard gearing on 6S. They're not tuned for low-throttle. You *could* do that, but then you sacrifice top speed unless you get a sensored system, which isn't worth the money for this use case, IMO.
The GT-5 is my fave all-rounder, you can grab that here: asiate.es/aff?l=150074&i=76070
(It has a built-in gyro in that receiver plus the radio has a 20-model memory and works with the cheap FS-A3 and FS-A6 receivers, which means huge flexibility with future model options).
This is an excellent resource for what you're doing: www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/wl-toys-144001-upgrade-brushless-speed-run-build-and-setup-full-guide
Screws are standard-fit, yep. Hardware stores don't tend to carry them, but BG definitely does. Just search the site, there are screws of all kinds in hobbyist size packs. It's great. I've been buying from BG for probably over a decade, though in recent times I've been significantly lowering my Chinese transactions and trying to buy local. Not always practical in Australia. But the company has reasonably good customer service and great prices. Your challenge in the UK may be import tax. Can't speak to that directly.
You didn’t calibrate the ESC first, did you?
I didn't, but it made no difference when I did. I solved the speed in the follow up video - it was an assembly issue with the pinion. All sorted now :)
Hi. I have a problem with my new AM-12.
Is it a servo problem? After rotating the remote controller wheel to the left or right,
When you take your hands off the wheel, the tires and steering components should come to the center with the number 11, but they do not come to the center perfectly. So, loosening the screws on the second floor panel components a bit doesn't solve the problem.
Is your AM-12 perfect?
You might be describing toe. The front wheels should not be parallel unless you're trying to drive very fast in a straight line. Instead, the wheels should be slightly angled apart towards the front, like \ / and not like I I
This gives better cornering and stability.
Could the problem possibly reside in the fact that I believe this is the first model from Rlarrlo that has a slipper clutch? Is it adjusted correctly?
Slipper was tight enough. I've had plenty of models with slippers before and ran an eye over it while presenting my video.
But good news, I've found the problem, fixed it, tuned the buggy from end to end and just finished filming a follow up to the review. It's much better now. Not noisy, handles like you'd hope and has decent speed. And the motor doesn't cook now! All will be explained soon :)
@@RCTNT Thank you for doing thorough reviews like this on RC cars. I am 70 years old and just getting into the hobby. I purchased a AM-X12 and still awaiting its arrival. I will perform all of your suggested tuning once it arrives before I hit the ground running.
One last question. Can the transmitter be changes for left hand steering?
@@bryanwinter3289 no worries, happy to be of assistance! The tx can't be changed, no. There aren't a lot of transmitters that can be. You can always buy a replacement set if you're really keen on it, but getting used to the standard config if you can will serve you well over multiple models. Your call, of course!
@@RCTNT Thank you! You are correct in that I should learn the standard configuration of the transmitter
@@bryanwinter3289 alternatives are getting cheaper, and being able to bind multiple models to one left-compatible radio could be just fine. This thing comes with a radio so you can always change later if/when you expand your RC fleet!
I have the 14006p and I'm have a hard time finding a 2s battery with more mah like a 5200mah to fit it
There's just no way a battery that big would ever fit, and even if it did, it would ruin the performance! Best to use smaller batteries, maybe 1400mah to 2200mah 2s, then swap them out while you want to keep driving. The car will be faster, turn and stop better, run cooler, handle bumps and jumps better, all in exchange for the greater runtime of a heavier battery. It's a good exchange, IMO 😉
@RCTNT I'm glad I asked I just canceled my order for 5200 mah. I only have like 15 20mins run time on the factory 2800 battery and I bought a quick charger but it still takes 1hr and 15mins to charge 1 battery
You aren't using a quick charger then. If it takes an hour, you're charging at 1C, which is what is generally recommended. I generally charge my lipos at about 1.2C, but when I'm in a hurry, like at comps or when I want to use them right now, I'll charge my higher discharge ones (those that are 70C or higher rated) at up to 2C, and on occasion I've even charged at 4C.
Higher charge rate means more heat and causes a little more wear to the cells, which is generally why 1C is recommended. For a 2800mah battery, a 1C charge rate is 2800mA.
If you buy another 2800mah battery, you'll have longer runtime anyway. It's probably the best way to go.
Anyone got any recommendations for a 3S battery that will fit in one of these?
I use Turnigy 700mah 50c packs but the bigger, heavier 2200mah 25C stick packs will fit too. More weight means worse handling, so keep that in mind. I wouldn't go above 2200mah 3s packs, as they'll be too large. Keep it under 1200mah for best results.
Something is wrong with yours. Maybe the esc isn’t calibrated right. All the other speed tests on this buggy on the internet are almost double what you came up with.
Problems have been found and fixed. Updated video drops in 12 hours :)
It's certainly not twice as fast now but it's now comparable to the XDKJ-006, as you'd expect. Thanks for the info!
No get a gyro for the 144010 and a bigger pinion
Haha, right. I have played around with my 144010 when we did the speed run series with the Rlaarlo cars last year. That was fun :)
On this one, the standard pinion is good. Just had to fix the installation issue - the follow up video covered it and we got the promised speed 👍
Longer but not wider than the 1:14 scale
Yep. Stretched :)
It's better quality than wl toys ? It's almost the same ? Is much better ? I don't want to spend my money to buggy that reminds me wltoys and brake so easily , this buggy reminds me wltoys and this is very bad.
Similar to wltoys but with some unique improvements. See my XDKJ-006 Durability Test video, these things can take a hammering! Everything has its limits so if you buy one of these, just remember everything is made to a price and has its limits.
I hit around 40 mph on 2S with mine. Maybe something is wrong with your battery
It was an assembly issue. ruclips.net/video/SMlwuivumpQ/видео.html
What is tour favorite rc car
Hmm, it'll be the Cross RC BC8 Mammoth and the Boom Racing BRX01. Close behind those are the Traxxas TRX6 and Axial SCX6.
For faster stuff, the Tekno SCT410 2.0 and my modified Losi LMT.
Honourable mentions to Corally Kagama, Arrma Mojave 4S, Axial UTB18 and Vanquish VRD Carbon.
Hi
G'day mate
This is supposed to reach 100km
See the follow up video. This one was assembled with an issue that I diagnosed and fixed - pinion was too tight against the motor mount, causing considerable friction!
@@RCTNT I put a new esc in my 124007 cause I damaged the original. Now I have cogging can that be fixed with a programming card or do I need a different esc?
@chrisspearline767 could be several things causing cogging. Importantly, was it doing it before the esc swap or only after? And what were TNT circumstances of the esc failure?
@@RCTNT here's the thing I really don't know if it was doing it before. Right out of the box I fried the esc by trying to connect the battery to the esc and the receiver. I have an RC boat that connects to the boat at the same place it charges so I thought it had to connect. There's no diagram on how to connect the battery. Well anyway I bought a new esc and had to get a new servo as well. It runs now just cogging on start up. I just ordered a programming card but someone said gearing down is the only way to fix it. How do I gear down?
@@RCTNT I'm looking at now calibrating the esc but can't find the programming button
Bro. when you're editing and you realize your entire shot of the speed runs was just your wrist, you can just cut that part out.
Thanks, noted.
The low speed was so relevant to the conclusion here, I didn't want to cut it.
The footage wasn't good, yes. I've improved since then, thankfully!