To Buy 1.75 HP Table Saw or 3 HP !
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- In this video, I present the viewer with my opinion on why I bought a 1.75 HP table saw instead of a 3 HP table saw.
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Chapters:
0:00
4:30 Running saw on 220v
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My current voltage at the end of the whip is measured at 246v. Both hot wires pull about 3.44 amps each when operating. When the table saw is initially turned on, the amperage surge can reach up to 30 amps on each hot wire.
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#sawstop, #tablesaw, #woodworking
Buy as much tool as you can afford at the time. This has been my guiding rule to now.
Agreed. Thanks for viewing the video.
Appreciate the video. I am considering this saw strongly and feel it will suit my needs. You've confirmed that.
Glad I could help. You will enjoy the table saw. It is a beast.
I actually bought a 1.75 and wasn’t happy and returned it for the 3. It was night and day difference in my opinion.
Yes, it would be. As I stated in my video going from my old TS to the 1.75 TS had the same effect.
Thanks a lot for making this. I've been struggling with this decision, 1.75 vs 3 hp as I happen to have 220 in my shop and found it to be the most helpful of of the many videos on this topic.
Glad I could help and thanks for viewing my video.
This is exactly what I was looking for.
Glad that I could help. Thanks for viewing my video.
Thanks for the insights. If I ever get to purchase a saw stop I plan to get the smaller 120 volt model and then upgrade to 220. The primary reason I would do this is to decrease the load and keep from tripping the circuit breaker on my 120 volt circuit when operating other equipment at the same time as running the table saw. Again, appreciate your perspectives!
If you will be installing a new 250v circuit, I suggest putting in a 50amp breaker. With a 50amp breaker you can run a lot of tools such as welders as most home shop welders come with a 50amp plug. Plus you can run 2 3hp tools with no issues such as a dust collector and 8 inch floor jointer.
Thanks for viewing the video.
Thank you I’m on the fence with the 3hp and 1.75. I appreciate this video thank you
Glad I could help and thanks for viewing my video.
Waiting on mine now. Was using a Ridgid Contractor Saw. Thanks for the review.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
I have a 1.75 hp Saw Stop contractor saw and have never regretted it or felt it was underpowered.
Thanks for viewing the video.
Man you need way more subscribers.
Thanks for the video.
I’m thinking of buying the table saw stop but here in Canada is about 3k minimum. I guess the price I should pay for a finger in my future so I will buy one as soon as I can.
They should be a standard and way more affordable imo.
Yes I agree the saw is expensive! Each time I ponder how much I spent I always seem to need to hit the water closet. It is tough spending that type of money but the saw is rock solid. Good luck and you will get funds to buy one.
Saw Stops blade brake patent is supposed to end this year. They are lawyering up to extend the patent. Other manufacturers are also lawyering up because they are ready to go with their own versions of the blade brake. No idea how long the lawyers will drag it out in court but it might be worth it to wait until the dust settles. If Saw Stop losses, the blade brake technology will be on virtually every saw and most likely much cheaper.
Yes, that is true but just like drug companies they can make a change to the device and keep the patent going. It's going to be a wait and see what happens.
@@chucks4328 true. The problem with sawstop is like with insurance companies. You don’t want it until you wish you had one 😜
Actually, with the wife with you in the store, you might have been able to negotiate to spend the money on the sawstop 3hp saw as long as she brought up the bagel. However, you can probably wire the motor in the SS 1.75 for 240 volts.
Major difference between 120 and 240 volt operation will be that you will never pop a breaker starting the saw, and/or the lights will never blink when you start the saw. Also can use a 14 gauge extension cord vs a 12 or 10 gauge for 120 volt operation (with the correct plugs on the cord).
To be honest my wife did mention the 3hp but I could not bring myself to pay 3k for a saw. I have a 30A 250v break that the saw is connected to. With a 30A breaker at 250v you can run up 24A with out worries. Just remember when planning multiple tools connected to one break. don't exceed 80% of circuit capacity.
@@SimpleShopCreations I have two 120v 20A circuits in my garage. The breakers must be just slightly different in their ratings because I can't run my air compressor on one circuit for more than 30 seconds before the breaker trips, but if I plug it into the other circuit it can run forever! My table saw (Home Depot store brand) has no issues connected to either circuit. If I had room in the garage, I'd get a cabinet saw, but for the little I use it, the contractor style on a home made mobile base is fine. I've never come close to be injured from my saw, unless you count a kick back that propelled a 2x4 I was resawing backwards (it bounced off my tool chest) but I was standing well off to the side. Still scared the crap out of me!
Answered my question on going 1.75 w conversion to 220 for performance.
Still looking at saw stop for the same reasons you name (bagel). My concern gets to the amperage on my sub panel.
I believe the 1.75 motor at 220 comes in at about 8 amps where the 120 version of that motor is a much higher amperage draw . Maybe 12-13 amps.
I measured approximately 3.44 amps per hot lead when I switched the saw to 220v. The actual voltage measured at the end of my power whip is 246v. If you keep the saw at 120v, I suggest a dedicated 20 amp with the least amount of outlets. Each outlet will cause a drop. The saw will pop a 15 amp breaker.
Loved your video. Very practical and wise choice. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for viewing the video.
New title: I bought a 1.75 hp because that was my budget
Can't even say that anymore. Have to change the title to: Can't afford a PCS 1.75HP at today's prices. Will need to investigate other TS manufactures.
Thanks for viewing the video
hahah
This helps. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
If you're going to cut hardwood thicker than 3/4" ,You'll need a stronger horse power .
Never had issues with cutting wood over 3/4 of an inch thick on my 1.75hp TS. However, if you do a lot of dado cuts, on a TS, then a 3hp or greater would be a good option as the higher HP would compensate for the heavier blade and wider cuts. 90% of my dado cuts are done using a router either free hand or on my router table therefore, the few dado cuts I do on the TS are no issue for the TS.
lol what sorta feed rate are you shoving the wood at the blade?
Thanks for viewing the video
Thanks for the honest video. Now I am afraid to cut my bagels. like deployed
Ha!. Thanks for viewing my video.
Thank you for this video. Would you mind telling us what blades you normally use? Are you using thin, or thick kerf blades with this saw? Thank you.
I use three blades. I have a Freud 8in dado, use the original blade that came with the saw for reclaimed, pallet, and construction lumber. When I cut harder wood such as maple, walnut, oak I use the blade that comes with the 3HP Saw Stop. Both 10in blades are 1/8 kerf. When I know the cut will be difficult I take smaller bites and take multiple passes as I raise the blade. If all else fails, I use a bandsaw. Since I got this saw I have not had to use a band saw to finish difficult cuts.
@@SimpleShopCreations Thank you so much for the information.
Don’t you know when cutting a bagel you’re not supposed to put your thumb through the hole?
Ha but I did not put my thumb through the hole.
That makes no sense. Why would cutting yourself slicing a bagel have any bearing on what horsepower saw you buy?
He said the 3hp sawstop was to expensive and not an option, so it was between a 3hp "other" brand table saw or the 1.75hp sawstop. The bagel incident had bearing in that his wife felt if he was not able to slice a bagel safely, he ought to be getting the sawstop or he might not have any fingers left to hold his wedding ring.
Great summary of the video.
Are the saw stop run the same motor between the PCS and contractor with 1.75 motor?
Cannot answer that question. I would contact Saw Stop.
Make more videos you have way to much knowledge to not get passed on
Thank you, I will
220 is cheaper to run as it uses both legs as compared to 1 at higheramps
The electric company charges by watts not amps so running at 250v does not save money.
@@SimpleShopCreationshigher gauge wire is cheaper ;)
Thanks for viewing the video.
Love saw stop safety but can't afford the prices.
Yes I can relate to that. There is no way I can afford the current price of the same model saw I have.
I can relate to that. At the new price for the SawStop I cannot afford to replace mine.
Of course the 3HP is the superior tool. Buy what you can afford
Thanks for viewing my video
Thanks for viewing my video.
just bought one yesterday,,and other than the safety it provides,,its way overpriced,,and weighs a ton,,im taking mine back before i get stuck with i
I agree the price for a SawStop table saw is getting out of control. If mine were to break, I could not afford the same PCS table saw at today's prices.
Yes, the table saw does weigh a bit but that is a good thing for a table saw.
Did you mull over SawStop CNS table saw?
Thanks for viewing and commenting on the video.
There is a comment in the video that states that you upgraded the motor from 1.75 hp to 3 hp. I wanted to know if this is possible on all sawstop table saws. Are the motors interchangeable on the PCS and Industrial saw?
I never upgrade the motor in the TS. In the video I do talk about upgrading and also mention that I most likely will not upgrade to a 3hp motor. To your question about motors I do not know if a PCS motor is interchangeable with an Industrial table saw. I suggest asking the folks at Saw Stop about motor compatibility.
Good grief GET TO THE POINT if their is one
HA! Got keep the YT viewer minutes up. Thanks for viewing.
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