Thank You, Thank You. Wow! This fixed my problem. 2007 Tundra SR5 CrewMax 5.7 After dealership changed my TPMS sensors, it was determined to be my Receiver. Receiver was ordered 8.5 months ago and has been on backorder. I had to pay for Receiver when they ordered it ($801.38 with tax) and I was then told it would be $319.90 for them to install. My TPMS light would come on only after I had driven for 20 minutes and then stay on. The light would go off after it was parked over night. Tried this and worked. I made 2 thirty minute trips to confirm. Now, the TPMS light will show up for a split second when you turn on ignition (not as long as before when turning key switch on). I called the dealership and they refunded my money. This procedure is very easy to do, just make sure the insulation has been broken on both wires when it is clamped. My first try, one of the wires was not making contact through the clamp. This video/suggestion saved me over $1,120.
Thanks for the excellent video! This worked for my 2011 Tundra. All of the steps are exactly as you described, with one exception: my dash panel had 4 clips that had to be released, not 3. There is one behind the left post (the one you just popped out). In fact, we can see that clip on your panel too (@0:37), above the vent opening. Also, you can release the tabs with your fingers (if you have fingernails). In my particular case, one of the clips could not be easily released because the clip had been deformed so that it was very hard to access it. It took a lot of finagling with a screwdriver to basically push it straight up (i.e. somewhat straightening it) in order to get the panel out. But that was the only hard part for me. After that, everything was gravy.
Great video, i just forwarded to my neighbor across the street who's been online for days copying schematics and other hacks that absolutely don't work. He had it fixed within ten minutes of receiving this video. Thanks so much.
Works great 😊!! I recommend finding the smallest slicer. Took a couple of times. This method works great once you have exposed the wires. If you don’t , it won’t work. Thanks for the wonderful tip. Years of that beautiful light now gone forever!!!
This worked perfectly for my 2007 Tundra. I noticed when I got the truck that two of the wheels didn't even have the sensors installed on the rims. The tires were new! So, instead of expensive repairs or splicing into the factory wires, I simply installed a small strand of copper wire jumping the back pin side of the connector. This is easily reversed and does not damage the wires either. Thanks for the great info! Now there is only a quick flash as the ignition key is turned to the start position and then the light stays off!
You are obviously a person of great intelligence! It is never a good idea to use. Scotch locks plays connectors because they cut the insulation and allow moisture intrusion into the wire, which, for corroded in addition to the scotch lock splice connector, potentially cutting the copper conductors, which will be damaged further by the corrosion if you don't cut the wire off and completely. Your idea of the jumper in the back of the connector is perfect, and something that I have done for years - I save old fluorescent light ballast wiring for just such purposes: it makes a perfect light gauge jumper wire.
Thanks much. It works on my 2009 4cyl RAV4. I see you borrow the yellow wire (red in my RAV4) to power the light blue wire (pink in my RAV4). Just curious, what stuff is usually powered by the yellow wire?
Thanks my man definitely works for a 2011 Toyota but I ran into a problem with the splice connector not cutting deep enough into the wires had to really jiggle pull and pry on them to make them contact the connector
And call mentor very recently suggested simply using a jumper wire from the blue to the yellow wire/yellow to blue wire either either or in the back of the connector: I save the solid wires off of old fluorescent, light ballast, or just such purposes. you push one wire end on one side and the other end of the wire on the other side and you have "Jumper" the connection - as the commentor pointed out, simply pulling the wire back out, returns to the original condition and there is absolutely no damage to the wiring. The problem with those 3M scotch locks places as they cut through the insulation and potentially the copper wire and can lead to corrosion which will ruin the wiring. Believe me, I am 64 and I can tell you stories.
Thanks so much! I’m using this on my 2007 Lexus ES 350 and wanted to ask, there’s some soft grey padding right above the wires and it’s not giving me enough space to connect the two. Is it safe to remove this type of insulation or at the very least cut some of it back to have more room to connect the two wires?
Добрый день. На этой клемме Вам надо было перекусить фиолетовый провод и все. В этом случае индикатор низкого давления в шинах при включении зажигания появляется на приборной панели и диагностируется при проверке, но при запуске двигателя гаснет и более не загорается. Так как указанная система диагностирует давление в шинах начиная со скорости около 20 миль в час, а перекушенный фиолетовый провод говорит системе, что машина не движется. Получается система работает, читается всеми видами диагностики, но не докучает во время движения. Всем удачи!
This TPMS crap is stupid, replaced two sensors, discount tire charged me 80 bucks just for installation they couldn’t program it, then took the truck to the STELALERSHIP wanted 220 bucks for the programming 😢 I’m not paying over 300 dollars to replace two stupid sensors Thanks for the video I’ll try this I done it on my 4Runner wich have one on the spare tire also, and never had any problems!!
Currently having this problem with my 2011 tundra they told me 2 of my tire sensors were bad but I’m thinking if I just replace the 2 sensors wouldn’t the light go away
It should go away if the sensor are bad but if it doesn't then it is costly. Especially if the sensors don't resolve the problem. Up to you. Let me know how it plays out.
Bro thanks for video saved me a lot of $$$. The receiver is like $500 or something like that. I didn’t use that splice connector though I just spliced the two wires and black taped it and all is good. It was on a ‘08 Tundra with oversized tires btw. Thanks Again, TC.
I did this with my 07 Lexus ES 350 and it didn’t work, I saw another forum saying that on my vehicle I need to connect the orange and dark blue wires yet after doing so my TPMS light is still on. Any tips?
each year and model (or generation ) wire color are different . get a 18-22 gage wire and keep jumping between wires inside the plug from the back side , not sure if other instrument can be damage under this kind of jumping .
Sorry to hear that. It worked on my friends 2007 Tundra. You can try to put proper air in tire and reset the TPMS. You can try unplugging the battery and see if it goes away once you reconnect the battery.
Try it again and make sure the insulation is broken through on both wires with the clamp. The wires are so small that the first time I tried, one of the wires was not making connection because the insulation was not pierced/broken on one.
Забыл добавить, если до перекусывания фиолетового провода машина зафиксировала в памяти ошибку по низкому давлению в шинах, то эту ошибку будет надо сбросить, иначе система будет работать как я описал ниже, но старая ошибка не даст сигналу погаснуть )).
You know, I wouldn't mind this idea, however I'd do this to a wiring harness extension to what's already there. That way I don't fudge with the original article, and it does give me the option to try and repair it later. That being said, anyone here have any idea as to where I can find something like that for this issue? It's happening to my '11 Tundra right now.
I have no issues & have other friends with Tundras with no issues. Took it for an oil change recently at my local Toyota dealership & no codes/problems.
Hello, not sure if you got it to work. I had the same issue with an 07 Crewmax. I even took the splice connector back off and saw the wire coating had been nicked by the splice. I decided to try it again, being certain to really crimp down on the red connector and ensuring both wires went through their respective sides. Sure enough , it did work. I saw another guy use a blue splice connector , but that is way too large for the fine wires on our trucks. Hope this helps.
Disabling is not fixing the problem/ I hope the people thanking you know that😂😂 I would have just put duck tape over it if the light bothered me that bad 😂
Depends on how you look at it. TPMS is a PITA and a useless feature for someone who checks their tires. I don't require an idiot light to tell me when my tires need air. I managed to operate a vehicle for 50 years without a TPMS monitor before the government decided I needed one. Imagine that.
*✅Red Quick Splice Connector ➜**amzn.to/3WjI3Ob*
*✅Visit ➜**funtechreviews.com** to support the channel! THANK YOU!*
Thank You, Thank You. Wow! This fixed my problem. 2007 Tundra SR5 CrewMax 5.7 After dealership changed my TPMS sensors, it was determined to be my Receiver. Receiver was ordered 8.5 months ago and has been on backorder. I had to pay for Receiver when they ordered it ($801.38 with tax) and I was then told it would be $319.90 for them to install. My TPMS light would come on only after I had driven for 20 minutes and then stay on. The light would go off after it was parked over night. Tried this and worked. I made 2 thirty minute trips to confirm. Now, the TPMS light will show up for a split second when you turn on ignition (not as long as before when turning key switch on). I called the dealership and they refunded my money. This procedure is very easy to do, just make sure the insulation has been broken on both wires when it is clamped. My first try, one of the wires was not making contact through the clamp. This video/suggestion saved me over $1,120.
Extremely glad to hear that. This is why I made this video. Happy to save people time and money!
Dude, you're a rockstar! '07 Tundra Limited, worked like a champ! You have no idea how thankful I am!
i have a 2010 tundra , worked like a charm .... Great Video , Good job
This worked perfectly for my 07 tundra, and it took about 2 minutes. Thanks for the help
Glad it helped
Thanks for the excellent video! This worked for my 2011 Tundra. All of the steps are exactly as you described, with one exception: my dash panel had 4 clips that had to be released, not 3. There is one behind the left post (the one you just popped out). In fact, we can see that clip on your panel too (@0:37), above the vent opening. Also, you can release the tabs with your fingers (if you have fingernails).
In my particular case, one of the clips could not be easily released because the clip had been deformed so that it was very hard to access it. It took a lot of finagling with a screwdriver to basically push it straight up (i.e. somewhat straightening it) in order to get the panel out. But that was the only hard part for me. After that, everything was gravy.
Thank you so much! This worked perfectly for me. I was quoted $240 at the tire store to replace the tire sensors. 2007 Tundra.
Awesome! Glad to hear that. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Confirmed fix. 2015 Tundra SR extended cab. Thanks brother!
Great video, i just forwarded to my neighbor across the street who's been online for days copying schematics and other hacks that absolutely don't work. He had it fixed within ten minutes of receiving this video. Thanks so much.
Works great 😊!! I recommend finding the smallest slicer. Took a couple of times. This method works great once you have exposed the wires. If you don’t , it won’t work. Thanks for the wonderful tip. Years of that beautiful light now gone forever!!!
Splicer
Confirming -this works! Ref: '07 Tundra No TPMS light anymore! Thanks!
Good to know. Thanks for the feedback!
It worked on my 2011 Tundra! Sweet bro, thank you for doing this video!
This worked perfectly for my 2007 Tundra. I noticed when I got the truck that two of the wheels didn't even have the sensors installed on the rims. The tires were new! So, instead of expensive repairs or splicing into the factory wires, I simply installed a small strand of copper wire jumping the back pin side of the connector. This is easily reversed and does not damage the wires either. Thanks for the great info! Now there is only a quick flash as the ignition key is turned to the start position and then the light stays off!
You are obviously a person of great intelligence! It is never a good idea to use. Scotch locks plays connectors because they cut the insulation and allow moisture intrusion into the wire, which, for corroded in addition to the scotch lock splice connector, potentially cutting the copper conductors, which will be damaged further by the corrosion if you don't cut the wire off and completely. Your idea of the jumper in the back of the connector is perfect, and something that I have done for years - I save old fluorescent light ballast wiring for just such purposes: it makes a perfect light gauge jumper wire.
And your crusie control works with it off correct?
thanks for the great how to! super easy mod! did it in less than 10 min on my 2010 Tundra!
Nice work! Glad to hear that! Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks!
Thank you much! I highly appreciate your donation!
Thank you.! Worked exactly like the video.! 2008 DC long bed.
Thank you best video I found on this problem that light been driving me crazy 5 min fix no more light 07 tundra. Thxs again!
Glad it helped
Thank you so much for video and go working this tomorrow in the morning and tell you more detail what's going on thank you happy good night
Thanks for the feedback. Glad I could help! Let me know how your project turns out.
How'd it work out for you?
Thank you very much for sharing it's work for my 07 toyota tundra double cab. Your video was really helpful.
Awesome!
can I just put a jumper wire at the connector between those 2 wires. so I don't need the splice connector ?
Not sure but that should work because that is essentially what I did.
Good informations. My stay on but doesn't bother me. So I will do what you did. Thank you.
Have a 2010. Womt go off even woth reset. It disabled the cruise control which is the worst. Will this allow the cruise control to work again?
Thanks a ton. Worked perfect on my 2009.
Great!
Thanks much. It works on my 2009 4cyl RAV4. I see you borrow the yellow wire (red in my RAV4) to power the light blue wire (pink in my RAV4). Just curious, what stuff is usually powered by the yellow wire?
Thanks for the feedback! Good to know it works on that year RAV4.
Works on a 2007 Tundra SR5. There was no cover on mine, wires are same color/orientation and TPMS box in same location. Thanks!
Cool!
Thanks my man definitely works for a 2011 Toyota but I ran into a problem with the splice connector not cutting deep enough into the wires had to really jiggle pull and pry on them to make them contact the connector
Nice! Great insight thanks for sharing your experience.
And call mentor very recently suggested simply using a jumper wire from the blue to the yellow wire/yellow to blue wire either either or in the back of the connector: I save the solid wires off of old fluorescent, light ballast, or just such purposes. you push one wire end on one side and the other end of the wire on the other side and you have "Jumper" the connection - as the commentor pointed out, simply pulling the wire back out, returns to the original condition and there is absolutely no damage to the wiring. The problem with those 3M scotch locks places as they cut through the insulation and potentially the copper wire and can lead to corrosion which will ruin the wiring. Believe me, I am 64 and I can tell you stories.
thanks soon much. very helpful. great job with step by step.
Glad it was helpful!
I like it. What year is your tundra?
2012
Thanks so much! I’m using this on my 2007 Lexus ES 350 and wanted to ask, there’s some soft grey padding right above the wires and it’s not giving me enough space to connect the two. Is it safe to remove this type of insulation or at the very least cut some of it back to have more room to connect the two wires?
I see in your video you do not have this padding, does this mean you removed it or perhaps your Tundra came without it?
Thanks! Worked like a charm!
Excellent!
Will this work on a 2021 Tundra?? And would it be the same gauge wiring and same blue and yellow wires? Having the same problems, thx
Not sure but you could try it and then just rewire it back it doesn't work? I don't know of anyone with that year that has tried this method out.
Добрый день. На этой клемме Вам надо было перекусить фиолетовый провод и все. В этом случае индикатор низкого давления в шинах при включении зажигания появляется на приборной панели и диагностируется при проверке, но при запуске двигателя гаснет и более не загорается. Так как указанная система диагностирует давление в шинах начиная со скорости около 20 миль в час, а перекушенный фиолетовый провод говорит системе, что машина не движется. Получается система работает, читается всеми видами диагностики, но не докучает во время движения. Всем удачи!
Works perfectly
Any idea if this will work on an 08 Chevy Impala LTZ?
Not sure but maybe someone can give some input.
make sure you get Red splices 19-22 Gage wire, need wire color for Toyota Camry 2014 LE, wher to find this information ??
اشكرك نعم فعلت هذا كان فعالا.
Is this just for tundra? I have a 2009 ford f150 with same problem
I have a 2017 Corolla where do I bypass on this car
This TPMS crap is stupid, replaced two sensors, discount tire charged me 80 bucks just for installation they couldn’t program it, then took the truck to the STELALERSHIP wanted 220 bucks for the programming 😢
I’m not paying over 300 dollars to replace two stupid sensors
Thanks for the video I’ll try this
I done it on my 4Runner wich have one on the spare tire also, and never had any problems!!
Mine didn’t work. Should I double check to see if I need to grip harder onto wires?
Great video
Hello, I did everything but still on? Should I try again? Any ideas? Thanks
Currently having this problem with my 2011 tundra they told me 2 of my tire sensors were bad but I’m thinking if I just replace the 2 sensors wouldn’t the light go away
It should go away if the sensor are bad but if it doesn't then it is costly. Especially if the sensors don't resolve the problem. Up to you. Let me know how it plays out.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but its not the color of the wires that matter, but the locations in the connector?
Both are important. You can move the connector up or down but they must make good contact with the splice connector to join both terminals.
looks like for each year and model wire color are different
Is this disable method un--doable? Incase you have to revert back to TPMS?
Yes, both wires will be split. Just have to reconnect & insulate.
Gonna try this on my 2020 Camry hybrid
where did you get info for wire colors for Camry , i need wire colors for Camry 2014 LE ????
Thank You!!!
Very welcome!
Does the red clip thingy basically disconnect the blue two wires? Is that how this was done?
The wire splice splices the wires together without cutting the wire.
Thank you very much
Thank you
Works perfectly on a 2010 Sequoia. Thanks!
Great!
Thank you great video
Worked perfectly no more light
Nice, I have 3 other friend that tired it out and it worked.
Bro thanks for video saved me a lot of $$$. The receiver is like $500 or something like that.
I didn’t use that splice connector though I just spliced the two wires and black taped it and all is good.
It was on a ‘08 Tundra with oversized tires btw.
Thanks Again,
TC.
👍 Thanks a lot 👍
I did this with my 07 Lexus ES 350 and it didn’t work, I saw another forum saying that on my vehicle I need to connect the orange and dark blue wires yet after doing so my TPMS light is still on. Any tips?
each year and model (or generation ) wire color are different . get a 18-22 gage wire and keep jumping between wires inside the plug from the back side , not sure if other instrument can be damage under this kind of jumping .
Thank you very much for your video…very informative. It helped me to disable the tire pressure light for 2008 Toyota Tundra 4.7l V8.
Glad to hear that.
I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla. Are the 2 wires I'm splicing together the same as this Toyota Tundra you're doing this to in the video?
no
Don’t work on my 2010 tundra 😢. Any other options?
Sorry to hear that. It worked on my friends 2007 Tundra. You can try to put proper air in tire and reset the TPMS. You can try unplugging the battery and see if it goes away once you reconnect the battery.
Try it again and make sure the insulation is broken through on both wires with the clamp. The wires are so small that the first time I tried, one of the wires was not making connection because the insulation was not pierced/broken on one.
@@billsherrill6571 yes that was an issue. Now no light
@@ukraineboy21 Great, glad I could help
Very true. Insulation must be broken to create proper contact.
How on earth do you de pin the wires lol struggling
Забыл добавить, если до перекусывания фиолетового провода машина зафиксировала в памяти ошибку по низкому давлению в шинах, то эту ошибку будет надо сбросить, иначе система будет работать как я описал ниже, но старая ошибка не даст сигналу погаснуть )).
You know, I wouldn't mind this idea, however I'd do this to a wiring harness extension to what's already there. That way I don't fudge with the original article, and it does give me the option to try and repair it later.
That being said, anyone here have any idea as to where I can find something like that for this issue? It's happening to my '11 Tundra right now.
This is a good idea. Did you ever find an extension?
Good Yob🎉
Quisiera recibir instrucciones para apagar permanentemente o deshabilitar la luz TPMS en una Tacoma FJ cruiser 2007. Gracias.
Hmmm,on the tundra forum ,they say to cut the light green and splice to the yellow. You cut nothing and just connected the 2 and it worked.
I have no issues & have other friends with Tundras with no issues. Took it for an oil change recently at my local Toyota dealership & no codes/problems.
Now I can upgrade my wheels
Nice!
I clipped mine 3 days ago and it went away. Just came back on today. Has anyone else had this happen?
This did not work for my 15. Anyone else experience issues?
My lights been on since 2008 lmfao.
Did not work for me....2011 4.7 Tundra
Hello, not sure if you got it to work. I had the same issue with an 07 Crewmax. I even took the splice connector back off and saw the wire coating had been nicked by the splice. I decided to try it again, being certain to really crimp down on the red connector and ensuring both wires went through their respective sides. Sure enough , it did work. I saw another guy use a blue splice connector , but that is way too large for the fine wires on our trucks.
Hope this helps.
Or buy a black sticker an cut out a circle or what works best and place over indicator lol
spend few dollars ,ask someone with programm pc to connect to your car and disable tpms light. thats all no ore light on
Disabling is not fixing the problem/ I hope the people thanking you know that😂😂
I would have just put duck tape over it if the light bothered me that bad 😂
Thanks Dudley-Do-Good. I think everyone here knows what we are performing..
Depends on how you look at it. TPMS is a PITA and a useless feature for someone who checks their tires. I don't require an idiot light to tell me when my tires need air. I managed to operate a vehicle for 50 years without a TPMS monitor before the government decided I needed one. Imagine that.
Thanks!
I highly appreciate ya!