Jeep XJ 1 Ton Project Overview | Superduty Swap, Drivetrain, Suspension and More 2018 Update
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- Опубликовано: 31 янв 2018
- Here is a update and overview video on one of our vehicles. My dad's 1994 Jeep Cherokee XJ. We go over the recent mods and please feel free to ask any questions! Take care!
1994 Jeep Cherokee XJ
4.0 HO Inline 6
AW4 Automatic Transmission
241OR Rocktrac Transfer Case 4:1
8.5 inch BDS Long Arm
Iron Man Fab Shackle Relocation on Rear XJAX Kit
Dana 50 Front Axle, 5.38 gears, Yukon Grizzly Locker
Sterling 10.5 rear axle, 5.38 gears, Yukon Zip Locker
37/12.5/R17 BFGoodrich KM2s
17x9 Amercian Racing Ansen Off Road Wheels 5.71 Backspacing
Rustys Bumpers Front and Rear
Tom Woods Driveshafts
If you want to support us for future builds and trips head here! Anything is appreciated!
paypal.me/RockquestOffRoad
#xj #xjoffroad #xj1ton #xjlongarm #xj37s #xjsuperduty
A second energy crisis in 1979 spurred the development of a smaller 4x4 wagon-the All-New Jeep® Cherokee (XJ). It featured a unibody design, compact dimensions and a suspension system influenced by the chief engineer of the Renault Formula 1 racing team. AMC recorded record sales in the 80s and discontinued the CJ-series and introduced an All-New Jeep Wrangler (YJ) in 1986. A year later, in 1987, American Motors Corporation was sold to Chrysler Corporation and the Jeep Brand became a part of Chrysler Corporation’s Jeep/Eagle Division. After its own market research convinced AMC that the future lay in compact SUVs, the automaker pumped $250 million into the design and production of the new compact XJ Cherokee and Wagoneer sports wagons.
XJ designs date back to 1978, when a team of AMC and Renault engineers drew sketches and made clay models from the existing SJ Cherokee, but the all-new XJ series finally made its well-received debut in 1984, when it scored an unprecedented sweep of the "4X4 of the Year" awards by three primary off-road magazines.
The 1984 Jeep® Cherokee was a revolutionary vehicle: 21 inches shorter, 6-inches narrower, 4 inches lower, and 1,000 pounds lighter than the full-size Wagoneer (SJ). It was built with a revolutionary uniframe instead of a traditional chassis-and-frame.
The XJ was the first vehicle with two available 4x4 systems: Command-Trac® Part-Time and Selec-Trac® Full-Time 4x4. XJs have proven enduringly popular with 4x4 enthusiasts for their off-highway abilities and wide availability of aftermarket modifications.
Until 1988, the Cherokee was the only compact SUV to offer both two- and four-door models. Originally fitted with the choice of a 2.5L four-cylinder engine or a 2.8L V6, the venerable 4.0L inline-six engine debuted in 1987.
There were 14 trim models throughout the years: Base, SE, Wagoneer Limited, Briarwood, Pioneer, Pioneer Olympic Edition, Chief, Sport, Country, Classic, Limited, Laredo, Freedom and 60th Anniversary Edition. 
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Glad you love the shackles and brackets!
You guys ROCK! Appreciate you taking the time to comment! Take care! We are saving up for some of your front arms and 4 link subframe it looks amazing!
No problem. We're real people just like you and everyone else. Looking forward to the build.
Ironman4x4fab id like to inquire about those brakets and shakles. Im putting a 6 1/2 in rc kit on and want relocation kit.
Here is a link to the relocation kit on their site! www.ironman4x4fab.com/product-page/xjax-kit
Damn thats pricy lol
Great walkthrough of an awesome build! Covered all the details that needed to be covered, and didn't ramble on like so many other videos do!
Thank you so much! It’s hard to think of everything and make it concise! Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video and awesome build. I especially like the wheel offset and how the tires don’t stick way out. Hope to see y’all on the trail.
Thanks so much for the encouragement!
That xj is sweet! Good job on the buildup! Looks solid to me👌
Thanks!!!
Unbelievable! Looks great! Super unique and looks like it's gonna be a tank!
Really Appreciate It! Cannot wait to wheel it!
Had a 94 XJ 2 door 2.5 inch OME lift. That rig is NICE!
Thanks man!!!! awesome those 2 doors are getting more rare these days!
100% Badass! Making me question where my build budget goes haha! 94 is a classic, use to have one before my current '00 build
thanks man! Really appreciate it! 2000 are really cool too...clean lines
this was a great look! I have a 94 grand and am thinking about getting an XJ as well.
Thank you! Sounds cool!
OMG THAT IS CLEEN ,WHAT YEAR ???PROBABLY THE 2ND BEST XJ BUILD IVE SEEN!!! THANKS FOR THE VID,THAT THING IS AWESOME!!!🔩🔧🔩
Thanks man!!!!!!!!!
Wow nice. At quick glance doesn’t even look like it’s on full widths with those wheels. Nice build.
thanks man!
Beautiful XJ, finally someone that actually takes it out and is not a mall crawler.
Yes!!! Thanks man!!
Gives me a good idea on what I’m putting in my clean and rust free 1987 Jeep Comanche thanks for the video man!
So glad you got inspired and found it helpful...Dang a Comanche would be such a fun build!!!!!!
Yeah! I’m stoked and will make a video over view and I will tag you in it when I’m done building it
That thing is a beast!
Thanks man!!!
I literally have the same jeep. 94 sport same color same interior everything. haha I've been wanting to do a build on mine like this since I got it. was shocked at how precise this looked in my head before seeing this jeep.
That is Awesome!!!!
Awesome build man!!!!
Thanks so much!!
Omg that s my dream truck
love that bumper
Thanks man we do too!
That thing is beautiful
Thanks man!
Uhhh....yeah. i have drool in my chest hair now. This just became my XJ goal. That baby is a jewel.
Hahah thank you man! Made our day!
I like it, I want to do something similar to a couple of my jeeps,
Awesome cant wait to see!
That is a sweet build
ty!
Great Job, I subbed to help you get to that elusive 1000 sub mark. I have an 01 XJ that I just bought.
Awesome! Thanks man!
I recently got my hands on an 82 Cherokee Chief and an 02 F250 Superduty that had been t-boned with plans to swap the power train and suspension/handling/braking system from the SD to the SJ to turn it into a rock crawler while still being street legal. I was worried about it all fitting though, but if you can fit Super duty parts into an XJ, I should have no problems fitting it in an SJ. Sure, there is going to be a lot of customization and fabrication, but I am confident now that I can get it done, thanks to this video. Well done. For your rear fenders, you'd be better off doing the cut and fold method rather than just cutting off a piece of it. It'll be a lot cleaner, tougher and less prone to rust.
Thank you so much for the encouraging words...dude a FSJ on Superduty 1 tons would be SWEET...
Steering box? My ZJ kept blowing seals till I went to hydro assist. Subframe stiffened? Nice build
It is actually stock...we have wheeled for years with 37s on locked dana 44s and have had no steering issues at all....minor difference in steering boxes between a ZJ and XJ....XJ has a 14:1 ratio and a ZJ has a 12.7:1 ratio so that may be a little more load in your box causing seal issues...we have the steering braced...the rocksliders tie into the unibody in the midsection but no other stiffening to the unibody yet...it makes a little noise when flexed out but thankfully a 4 door has the double a pillars which is better...we will see in the future if we need to make some changes fingers crossed! Thanks for the comment man!
I love you didn't cut the fenders. It looks nice.
Thanks man! We decided it looks way cleaner keeping it this way!
Great looking XJ! I saw one of your videos where you guys were Wheeling at one of the Parks in Texas. We have a few built XJ’s we wheel all over Texas but live in the Dallas area, if your open to meeting up.
We are in Tyler! We wheel at Barnwell every few months and are looking forward to going to Marble Falls or Superlift Park in Hot Springs too! I will send you a PM with my number maybe next time we go we could meet up!
well send me a email gotchaagainlol321@gmail.com and Ill get you my number that way :)
Not around the fender, but the bottom rear portion... Bleepinjeep has a great vid on it
Oh yes I have seen that vid...I will check that out again thanks man!
This thing looks sick
Thank you man!
Amazing !
Thanks so much!!
Nice rig
Thanks!
Hey man, love your build! I’m trying to learn about 1 ton axle swapping right now. What are the benefits to it?
Much larger bearings to support the weight of larger tires and equipment on the rig and impacts to the shafts...much larger axle shafts to withstand more torque...larger ring gear and pinon gear diameter that takes much more torque without breaking or stripping teeth...larger brakes more stopping force...the cons are the axles are heavier and you lose a little ground clearance :)
Very helpful video
Glad it helped you out!
Some of those welds look iffy at best. Otherwise pretty sweet build, I'm trying to convince a friend to do the same.
Yes thankfully they have held....if they give on that driver side we will have to find a way to get into that narrow spot and get better penetration...hope your friend does it! It drives and stops so much better that stock axles!
Have you looked at Ironman Andy's long arm system? I just ordered the front long arm kit for my 98 XJ a couple of weeks ago.
I will check it out!!!!!!!
Super dope.
THANKS!
Beautiful
Ty man!
great tour! whats the gear ratio in your rear diff and did that factor into your consideration for your tire size thanks!
We are running 5.38 gears which most Jeep guys would recommend for 37s and above. RPMs are a bit high at 70 but it pulls hills in overdrive which is nice. We had 4.27 gears with 37s before and they worked fine as well. Close to same shift points as factory just downshifts on grades. Off road 5.38s are amazing and really take a load off your transmission. Thanks for the kind words!
That's a coooool jeep friend
Thank you!!!!!
Wow that’s my dream Cherokee right there!! Cant wait to see the axel build video. How does the stock motor do pushing the tires? I need to re-gear mine like you guys did. Great build!
Stock engine pushes it fine! No problem at all....no overheating no lugging...4.88 would be nice if you were more highway focused to keep some of the revs down at 70 but it really work well! Looking forward to making the axle build video too! Work has been crazy lately :)
I hear ya man always stuff to do! Thanks for the input!
totally beautiful
Thanks man!
Nice
That's beautiful
Thanks man!
@@rockquestoff-road2839 no problem man I'm slowly working on building my xj check out my channel I'd love your opinion
what was needed to installed a 241 Transfer from the Rubicon to the AW4 auto trans? I keep hearing that they will not work..
Nothing was needed to install the TJ 241OR behind the AW4...the shifter and even the speedo wire hooked right up! You cannot use a JK 241 Rocktrac because the JK uses wheel speed sensors for speedo and trans and a host of other potential issues Good luck!
beatiful!
Thank you!
So I'm doing this same swap on my Jeep, can you give me the measurements on where you put the perches on the rear? Im having a difficult time figuring it out. Thanks!
To make it easy cut off the perches and move each one toward the Diff half of a inch....then hook your springs up and use a jack to adjust your pinion angle to your driveshaft really close then weld them up! The sterling perches are overall set about 1 inch wider than a stock XJ....so moving them in half an inch each side works perfect! Good luck man! It drives SO much better than ever now!
A rear quarter trim would clear those tires perfectly....
Did you make a video of building the front axle?
No i have not yet...that will come soon!
With the Dana 50 the axle itself is how it came off the truck? Minus the truss. And could you possibly post a link of that truss?
Yes the Dana 50 is just like it came off the 1999 F250...only added the truss here is a link! Thanks man!
www.artecindustries.com/tjfsd60swap?amp=1
I finally found the perfect xj. I'm coming to get it ASAP.
Will those shackles fit the stock shackle pockets without the shackle extension brackets?
I do not actually know...they might...you could call Iron Man Fab and see what they think!
Thanks hehe!
hey i just got myself a set of these axles and will be doing this to my grand cherokee. I just want to know if you used the super duty brakes did you also have to switch your master cylinder and booster?
thanks!
just used factory master cylinder and system with the stock super duty calipers ...brakes work perfect and very strong (easily locks tires up with 37s)...spongy pedal is just from the extra fluid required to activate the bigger brakes but doesn't cause any performance issues! Such a pleasant surprise! We originally thought we would have to replace everything but NOPE! So glad!
53rd thumbs up 😁 u guys mean business, wow😁😁 awesome work!!
Dude THANK YOU! Love all the kind words! Looking forward to getting some crawling and trail riding footage for you guys!
Rockquest Off-Road 10-4😎
Rockquest Off-Road Thanks btw for not getting mad about my somewhat critical post. I think you have that right. Your chassis has been tested at King of the Hammers. I recall seeing a guy attempting to run a Grand, I can't remember exactly which year, unfortunately, (sometime in the last three I think) but as I expected massive fail. The suspension just ripped the unibody apart. Granted racing the hammers is sort of nuts to begin with, but it does give insights to the weak points. The fix in my opinion would be to take a 2 door Tahoe, or Yukon '93-'98 (or similar, but those come to mind) chassis and put your Grand on that. The other thing I question is why not use a Dana 60 high pinion kingpin axle? A high steer set up would eliminate a good portion of the obvious steering problems you have with your current set up. You truss the 50 up nicely (for hard use) but attach it to a unibody (not for hard use). I know, after the fact, but for someone considering a similar build these might be important considerations. Finally, on a more positive note, the use the full float Sterling rear axle. A very under rated unit. It has all the strength of a 14 bolt with 2 inches more of ground clearance. They are plentiful and cheap and have most if not all of the aftermarket support that the venerable GM unit has.
Thank you for the reply :) we welcome all comments for sure and you have some great ideas. We ran the 50 because we got it cheap :P a 60 would be first choice for putting an axle in this way...it is nice to have the ability to shave the 50 for quite a bit more clearance but thats about the only positive...Hi steer would always be amazing but we go in stages as we need it...definitely do not have to have it as it has never failed on the trail yet :) looking forward to putting the axles on our LJ build with some proper steering :) thanks!
Where did you mount your upper control arms? Looks like you used stock mount at the frame for the uppers? If so how did it work?
The uppers and lowers on the front actually attach to a new one piece BDS subframe that comes with the 8.5 inch lift…the arms are all much longer
I know this is an older video but do you have any more details on the wheels and tire sizes? I am wanting to do 1 tons on my ZJ but want the wheels tucked like you have shown. What was the overall width outside of tire to outside of tire with this setup?
Oh man I wish I could measure for you but we do not have the jeep any more...so sorry man!!! It was such a great XJ so capable and fun
Perfectly done sir thank you so much for the walk around. about the only thing Im curious about now is about the lower control arm bracket on the driver side front axle and I had no idea you could shave a Dana 50 that's freakin sweet
The artec lower control arm mount ties into the coil bracket and casting on the diff housing snug...had to grind a little but not much...the Artec brackets made it so much easier than figuring it out from scratch...lined up perfectly....yeah the Dana 50 has more ground clearance shaved than the regular D44 hah...its really like a high pinon Dana 44 with Dana 60 outers except with a larger ring gear...hybrid axle love it
so you just welding to the casting with regular mig wire? or did you do the hole heat treat stuff with that high nickel rod?
Yes...just did short welds and let it cool...patience and don't rush....it is cast steel so it takes some power to get into it...we got away with no pre heating or letting it cool overnight and all that stuff...we just welded on it a little then worked on other stuff and let it cool and then did some more...no issues with axle tube deforming or welds breaking etc.
"Nothing is ever gonna go wrong up here"....good luck with that.
One can be positive lol
Showing up late to the party. Are you running the axles full width hence the 5"+ backspacing?
Yes! No way to narrow the Sterling rear and Dana 50 front so backspacing the wheels is just a personal choice to minimize a crazy stance width...wanted it to be a little harder to notice what had been done....looks more classic also :)
Biggest issue with rock Clearance looks like it might be your steering. Any upgrade plans to get that a bit more out of the way?
Yes! After having the stock superduty tie rods for a while we bent them on a rock so we then built some .250 wall DOM tube tie rods and a new drag link and it’s much more out of the way and straight across now without that weird bend in the tie rod!
What size lift you running? I’m going to do an axle swap and I was told I need about a 6 1/2 inch lift. I have a 4 1/2 inch lift now. I was told that the 4 1/2 could work but I would have to do a lot of cutting. Is that true?
It would be TIGHT with 6.5 inches…it could work but you would have to bump-stop it…I really like how ours has even amounts of up travel and down travel…it rides fantastic and we didn’t have to destroy the body to fit the tires. My opinion of course but so many guys think the XJs are unstable over 6 inches of lift but as I have always said…my dads XJ on 1 tons and 8.5 inches of lift and 37s has the same roof height as my JL Rubi on a 2 inch spacer lift with stock tires…this XJ is wide and stable and flexes like crazy! Just my opinion! And you really need long arms up front…get a Clayton crossmember or something at the least and some arms from Ironman Fab or Rockcrawler…I prefer a true 4 link design for durability and redundancy…just my 2 cents!
did you have any issue with the long arm and artec truss im in the process of doing a 1ton swap and cant decide on what 3 link imma go with dont want to have to bend anything or adjust the 3 link arms thanks and love the build man
xj-jay 123013 no issues at all...if you buy or build a kit for the XJ all the links will slide right in where they are supposed to go...no modifications were needed 👍🏻
thanks man!!!
Well that turned out bad-ass...
Thanks!!!
This is a awesome video. I just got my hands on these same axles, how did you center the axle under the rear??... I have so many questions! Haha
awesome thats so exciting! on the rear just move each ford spring perch in 5/8 of an inch narrower on each side and you are set!!!!!!
Rockquest Off-Road
That's it?? Hell yeah!! Does the 241 bolt up?? Or did you habe ti get a adaptor??
241OR from a TJ bolted right up and same wires and linkage for shifter like it was made to be there lol
Rockquest Off-Road I know what I'm getting. 😎😎
You have an awesome built xj,, wish I had seen this video before. I have a question, I am in awe at how flat your rear leaf spring are, I have 5.5 leaf spring at the rear, if I install the Ironman 4x4fab XJ Adjustable Shackles how do I get my rear leaf spring that flat
Well our leaf pack is a BDS 5 inch set...it has several small leafs and was a pretty flat very soft pack to begin with....if your 5.5 inch pack is not that flat then I would take the shortest leaf out of the bottom of the pack and then adjust your iron man shackle to the lift you need to match the front....that’s the beauty of the shackle set it can adjust so much you can take some leaves out if you need to make the rear soften up like it should! 👍🏻
Thanks for the kind words! Love this project as well!
@@rockquestoff-road2839 Thanks for the information
My pleasure!
or 1994 -2000 . im confused... your notifacations said 1994-2000 but when i clicked on the reply it says 1984-2001...jeep cherokee. i need to change back rear end.Complete housing axels and all...just need to know what modals will inner change.
Sorry I replied and then did some quick research and indeed it went farther back than I thought with the dana 30 front...just make sure it is a high pinion version and you are golden...on the rear axle they are the same years...only thing is the XJ had 2 rear axles...yours being a 2000 model I would guess it is the Chrysler 8.25 axle for the rear which is a good thing...the rear axle in older models and some newer models is the Dana 35 which is weaker in many respects...do some homework and make sure you know which one you have and then go hunting!
Thanks!
What fenders flares are those?
Do you still have this rig if so how's she holding up i like this set up pretty nice rig
Well we wheeled it like this for about 2 years and didn’t break anything with 37s...so my dad finally got an LJ so he could have the open top experience again and he loved the drivetrain in the XJ so much that we swapped the axles and transfer case over to the LJ adding a Rubicrawler in front of the rocktrac....been running it with 38 inch milestars at 3 psi with new Hutchison bead locks...havent broken anything yet either!! Been really solid for us...we have hit some stuff pretty hard too!
Great build! I'm about to do the same with d60 and sterling 10.5. I'm trying to research the total width to figure out what wheels I'll have to get. How wide are your wheels and what is your width from outside tire to outside tire?
the wheels are 17x9 American Racing Ansel with 5.7 inch backspacing (Hummer H2 wheels are around 6 inches backspacing) we had to grind a bit on the tie rod connection area to clear the wheel on the front...if you use 18 inch wheels you may not have the clearance issue with a deep backspacing wheel...8x170mm lug pattern for the fords...the width to the outside of each tire (12.5 wide tires) is 81 inches....the front axle we have is a 99-2004 Dana 50 (the 60 from those years is the same width) it is 69.25 inches wide wms to wms....the 2005 Sterling 10.5 in the rear is 70 inches wide wms to wms...if you have a 2005 and later front axle it will be 72 inches wide which will be more difficult to offset hope this helps!
Wow! That was more info than I expected. Thank you for that. I picked up 02 super duty d60/10.5 combo. my goal is to be no more than 82.5" wide. I plan on getting 17x9 beadlocks and 5in backspacing. I'm hoping to test fit some wheels and make sure it'll clear as I'm planing on the artec high steer weld on parts. Its got me a little worried, but we'll see how it plays out.
@@Kneeknow. Look forward to seeing it! Sounds awesome!
Rockquest Off-Road, how much of the front pumpkin/cast did you have to cut off ?
Hey love the Jeep.. I am running a 6.5" arm lift, and want to go up an inch or so to get more clearance on my 35's. I know the shackle relocation will ad an inch or so to the rear so I am wondering what I will be facing to get this extra inch or inch an a half out of the jeep. Do i go with 8" shocks, and throw in some 2" spacers on my front coils to compensate? Will I need to lengthen my control arms in the front to compensate the extra 1.5" lift? Appreciate the help in advance. Also .. What shocks are you running? How do you like them?
Yes definitely go with some 8.5 inch shocks from BDS we loved them very well made and good control and ride as well...no complaints...I would get the ACOS for the front if money is not an issue then you can adjust it to exactly where you want it...otherwise I would just do a 1.5 inch spacer on the front...the lengthen you’re lower control arms around 1/2 inch to start with and see how it drives...hope this helps!!
@@rockquestoff-road2839 Hey I really appreciate the response. I have been contemplating my build for months now, and I think I am going to finally make the leap. I was also wondering how much further I would need to go with my bump stops with the additional 1.5" lift at 8"? I am going to consider the ACOS, but I want to make sure my ump stops are right, as well as if they will accommodate the 8" lift.. I do a lot of flexing and don't want to ruin my new shocks. One of my friends is trying to steer me away from going over 6.5" due to having more of a chance to roll over. Opinions on this as well? Thank you so much for your time, and a great video.
@@rockquestoff-road2839 Hey man. I am not seeing BDS has 8.5" shocks. That kit you got came with fox 2.0's I believe.. You sure those are BDS shocks? Any other shock recommendations around 8.5" for me? Really don't want to spend the money on the Fox shocks
Hey man I made a vid I can’t share the screen shots I just tried to take...it’s an XJ update new shocks video and I show the box with the part numbers too...
Right on bud. I'm gonna go search for it on your channel. 🍻
I wish I could buy this from you guys! Is it available or for sale even?
Sorry man not for sale! But i will save your comment if we ever sell it in the near future :)
Came out pretty nice, the only thing I didn't like was the ugly welds but everything came out nice. By the way how much did you spend on the modification?
Well with new wheels included probably around $3000ish...not too bad considering how much it costs to build up and regear stock axles and get lockers etc. :)
Not bad at all! 👍👍
I'm currently in the middle of this swap. I'm also running the ironman fab rear shakles. Also running the rusty's 6.5 long arm kit. How did you get the rear leaf that flat?
We used the 5 inch BDS leaf pack and matched the 8 inch front lift with the Iron man shackles...so I would advise using a 3-4.5 inch rear leaf spring and use the shackles adjustment to make up the rest of the lift and set the shackles as angled as possible without losing too much lift
Thanks for the help I have another question. When you welded on your rear spring perches what angle did you set the pinion at.
@@joshrushing7583 We set it to within .5 degrees of the driveshaft angle...match your driveline and you will be set
If you dont mind me asking, what pitman arm did you use to match up with ford TRE and the xj steering box?
We used the normal 8 inch drop pitman arm that came with the BDS lift...we grabbed a tapered reamer off of amazon and with some patience reamed the pitman arm slightly larger to accept the slightly larger tie rod end on the superduty drag link 👍🏻
Thanks! Looks great
excellent SUVs of the old model Grand Cherokee and Cherokee than the new model which are full of electronics and beauty and quality and safety do not even smell
Agreed!
Did you change the brake booster and master cylinder?
Nothing...just used factory master cylinder and system...brakes work perfect and very strong...spongy pedal is just from the extra fluid required to activate the bigger brakes but doesnt cause any performance issues! Much better than stock was! Such a pleasant surprise!
what modal jeep and what kind of jeep will inner change {complete Housing } an all with my 2000 jeep cherokee... How do i tell a xj from other jeeps.. i have a 355 ratio in my 2000. bad pinion gear. Just want to change it all... what will fit my jeep and match front. I think i have a Danna 30 in the front and Danna 35 in rear.
Yes you have a Dana 30 front...if you want to replace the whole axle just head to the junkyard and look for the front end out of a 1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee 4x4...to check the gear ratio look for the metal tag on the differential cover. If the tag is gone or damaged just turn the tire and count the rotations of the yoke where the driveshaft connects...instruction at this link www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-130.htm
Hope this helps!
First off thanks for your reply... I need the rear end replaced Im wanting to take out axles housing an all out of my 2000 cherokee and replace it with another complete housing axels an all.unbolt u bolts drop it all. What modal jeeps will inner change...is it the same as u mentioned for the rear end... from a 1984- 2001
What did you do for your brake hoses?
They are BDS 8.5 inch lift stainless hoses...the fittings work on the 1 tons same as stock 👍🏻
What year model ford for the one ton axles
Btw awesome work sir
The front is a Dana 50 out of a 1999 Ford F-250...it is 69.25 inches wide and the rear is a Sterling 10.5 out of a 2005 F350 with disc brakes...it is 70 inches wide...the 99-2004 front axles are easier to get cleaned up because there are less brackets and mounts to grind off...the 2005 and up front ends are very strong but are also 72 inches wide or wider which makes it impossible to keep the tires in the fenders very much unless you get custom wheels with a deeper offset...but if you want the wide look go for a 2005 and later front Dana 60🤙🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the encouraging words man!
@@rockquestoff-road2839 where did you get the axle fitment parts for the switch?
Are the Daystar bushings in the factory location?
Which bushings are you referring to?
Did your rear pumpkin come up and hit your gas tank since you moved the axle back and it is larger?
We actually had zero issues with this. Could be due to the lift being around 8-9 inches roughly...if you ran a 5.5 or 6 inch lift it could come into play. But just bumpstop it if thats the case and you will be fine!
@@rockquestoff-road2839 What size front coils are you running ?
@@miloganze3469 BDS 8.5 inch coils
fender flares where did you get those
Those are stock flares we just cut for clearance
If your transmission ever dies you could replace it with a NV4500. Then you'd have a one ton rated transmission to go with those one ton axles. :O
There ya go!!!
Do you have any clearance issues between the rear axle and the fuel tank?? Looks awesome!
Absolutely zero issues with fuel tank clearance with this specific lift and only moving the axle back 1 inch!
Thank you much!
Rockquest Off-Road awesome! Going to pick up a set of one tons this weekend and your video answered all the questions i had about the swap!!
So excited for you man! Video your swap! Would love to see it! Take care!
Is there another way i could pm you? I have a ton of questions to ask, as i am new to the one ton swapping, but not to xjs. So I’m not a total newb but need some advice! Thanks man
Are the axles full length or did you end up shortening them up ? Great set up btw !
Thanks man!!! These axles are full width...tons of work to narrow them and it’s just easier and cheaper to get high backspacing wheels...the ones we have are 5.7 inch backspacing American Racing Ansel Off Road Wheels... 17x9 8x170mm
@@rockquestoff-road2839 thanks for the response and information. Just picked up a 1 ton set off a '05 SD going to be doing this soon . Thanks for the inspiration and template!! Cheers !
Awesome!!!! Enjoy the process man! Love helping out any way I can!
You stated the wheels Had 5.7 BS. Whats the diameter and width of the wheels? Awesome xj!
They are 17x9! Thanks man!! Just wheeled it for the first time on April 27 out at Barnwell Mountain and everything worked incredible!
Awesome, another question. You got the artec truss, the coil mounts were the right width and all?
The buckets are around 1 inch wider per side I would say....looks like the coils are in and the top and come down at a slight angle to a wider stance...they work great but it cannot be avoided because the differential is in the way :)
So what all did you do to fix the brake issue?
Nothing...just used factory master cylinder and system...brakes work perfect and very strong...spongy pedal is just from the extra fluid required to activate the bigger brakes but doesnt cuase any performance issues! Such a pleasant surprise!
How will stock axles hold up to 37s?
if you have a 8.25 Chrysler rear and dana 30 HP front leave them open they will hold up fine to some moderate wheeling...if you put a locker in either you will blow them up :)
What driver side track bar mount did you use? And what kind of track bar
Rusty’s HD mount and HD track bar! We had to shorten it by an inch or 2 to give us the right amount of adjustability since the axle mount position changed somewhat...all in all so happy with the setup
Rockquest Off-Road alright thanks for the info, I’m in the process now of doing the swap an was also looking to keep the stock ford steering parts for initial cost during build
An xj track bar wouldn’t work would it , I currently have a rustys track bar for a 4-6” lift I know the frame side joint would have to be changed
Is that just a 1350 companion flange that fits the sterling?
Or from an excursion rather
We had bought a separate flange and it didn't work so when we had Tom Woods make the rear driveshaft we told them what we had and sent them some measurements and they made sure we had the correct flange with the correct bore to fit over that circle on the pinion flange. Sorry do not have the specific part number...but I would call tom woods or adams and tell them the year of your axle and they will help you find the right flange.
How's she ride ona highway? I'd imagine fairly slow with the extra weight from the axles.
Well compared to a bone stock XJ yeah not as quick to get up to speed...but compared to a lifted XJ with stock gearing and 33s this thing would blow its doors off...with 5.38 gears and 37s its pretty powerful up to around 45-55...holds 70-75 no problem and can pull hills with ease because of the gearing
The suspension is soft and comfortable...it’s a older Jeep so wind noise and road noise are a thing but it’s not bad at all 👍🏻
I noticed the proper geat ratio so i wasn't too worried about matching rpms. But I'm surprised with the weight it gets up to that speed.
Oh yes no problem at highway speeds...have had it to 80-85 but it’s working hard cruising at that speed so no reason to push it 👍🏻
What is the taper size for the Ford tie rod end at the pitman arm?
We used a 7 degree reamer for it...www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-7-Degree,2918.html?
@@rockquestoff-road2839 Perfect, thanks. Did you have to shorten the drag link?
Nope the factory superduty steering components are all the correct length
those welds ; )
Yes thankfully they have held....if they give on that driver side we will have to find a way to get into that narrow spot and get better penetration ;)
How are the 5.38s and 37s on the road? Too much gear or is it bearable?
ITs perfectly bearable...stock exhaust at highway speeds it runs around 2600 RPM which is a bit higher than I would like but it does pull hills with ease and has confident power which helps us feel we are taking a load off the engine and trans...most JK guys from the pre 2012 era run 5.13s and 5.38 with any tire 35 inches and over and love it...if you have 35s I would run 4.88s...if 37s run 5.13 or 5.38s
I'm just curious as I've been building my setup and just went to the highest gear right off the bat so I wouldn't have to do it again. Dana 60/14-bolt 5.38s, spartan & grizzly. I snagged a cheap set of 40s but was a bit worried it might limit me to a 40"+ tire to be streetable, especially considering mine is an AX-15.
With an AX-15 it should be awesome with 5.38s! Manual is always better with deep gears sounds like a beast rig man!
Thanks! I hope so! It's coming along, just tying up loose ends on the axles then I can throw them in. Wish I had of gone with superdutys though. I picked up a 2011 D60/Sterling 10.50 for a song & dance, then a week later a set of 2003 superduty D60/Sterling 10.25. Both are HUGE compared to the kingpin 60. If I wasn't basically done I would 100% build the 2011.
Holy shit those welds are sketchy... my 99 XJ is all custom double triangulated 4-link rear with 20” fox shocks and the front is a custom 3-link with a panhard and it rolls 38” nittos and flexes like a MF with a full hydro steering set up... these are great platforms to build off of and with that 4-1 case and steep gears the 4.0 does pretty well even on long hard climbs. Nice rig
It is amazing how well the old faithful 4.0 handles everything especially with tons of gearing! The XJs flex insanely well and they are super light compared to other jeeps! 99 model thats so cool! Yep the welds on the drivers side lower control arm bracket were awkward and we are not pros lol...all the rest turned out perfect though and hey may not look pretty but as long as they hold and got good penetration we will be good :) thanks for the comment man!
Hey sweet build. What perches did you use for the rear and were any leafs removed from that leaf pack?
We used some perches from Rustys their 3 hole anti wrap perches...they are about 5 to 6 inches long I believe....left the 5 inch BDS leaf pack intact....just removed the 2 inch block from the lift kit and used the shackles to dial it in the rest of the way....super soft springs really like a lot
Rockquest Off-Road did you tackle the ebrake and master cylinder upgrade? This video has me super pumped to knock out my swap
Dude! Awesome! As I told Randy down below we read up on brake mods but decided to hook everything up factory and see how it did....could not be more surprised...the peddle is spongy feeling but it brakes very strong and hard...easily locks up the 37s when you panic stop and they held PERFECT when we went wheeling.....stock master cylinder and stock booster...its way better that the way it braked stock with no lift! So save yourself some money and just live with a spongy pedal that other than the feel works perfect! Thanks man!
Rockquest Off-Road thank you. Last question... Do you have a shop that offers services? I'm in Dallas and need a pro to weld the truss to cast!
Bro I wish...we have a shop and do all of our own stuff but don't have a lot of extra time...What I would do is get the truss kit and if you have a welder put the time in getting it all assembled and firmly tacked in place....then take to a welding shop and get them to finish out all the welds....the housing is cast steel so thankfully its not cast iron....just needed some power to burn in a few beads....most of the strength is welded to the steel tubes and perch areas on the front end! Let me know when you are rolling adn maybe we can meet up and wheel it!
The dana 50 is aluminum i thought and had some other nitpicks
No it is a cast center section the same size as a Superduty Dana 60. The axle tubes are the same thickness and size OD as a Ford Dana 60. The knuckles are Dana 60 cast. the stub shafts and ujoints are all Dana 60 size and 35 spline. The ring gear is 9 inches so only .5 inches smaller than a standard Dana 60. The only cons are its pinion is the same diameter as a Dana 44 and the inner axle shafts are 30 spline Dana 60 size until they progressively neck down to Dana 44 diameter where they enter the carrier. According to some stress and torque ratings I researched the Dana 50 shafts are considerably stronger than 30 spline Dana 44 shafts because of the progressive neck down at the carrier the whole sxle shaft will twist under load and carry more torque before failure than a Dana 44 shaft. So the Dana 50 really is a middle ground between the Dana 44 and a Dana 60. The only benefit the Dana 50 has over a 60 is the clearance because you can shave about 1 to 1.5 inches off the bottom of the differential. Its fun to try different setups that not many people run. If you find a 60 for the same price of course go 60 but sometimes the 50s can be really cheap and they can handle 37-39s fine.
@@rockquestoff-road2839 Gotcha, some offroad fourms I know hate the dana 50. Anyway you can always go 4340 thicker 35 spline shafts on the d50 and make stronger than a d 60
That’s cool I’ll have to look into those shafts in case we break one eventually
how much did the axle swap cost?
Since we bought the front axle from a guy with 5.38 gears in it already for 600 it got us a little ahead of the game...2005 sterling rear we got for 400...new brake calipers and rotors front and rear, new bearings etc....Yukon air locker for rear and Yukon grizzly locker (Detroit) for front...Artec truss kit $450ish...mike market hubs for front...Front Dana 50 around ~$2000 brakes and truss and all....rear sterling $~2500 with brakes all new, spring perches etc. so about 4500-5000 total...pretty incredible how much cheaper it is than getting crate axles from teraflex, Dynatrac, Currie etc. they cost around 12 to 18K once you get gears and lockers in them crazzzyyy...
What kind of brace is on the trackbar
It is a Rusty's HD track bar, mount and cross brace!
Cool thanks, awesome Rig
It’s not too wide I like it!
Thats what we were going for! Hate how wide most 1 ton swapped jeeps are...but we made it work! It drives incredibly well too much better than before
Rockquest Off-Road tempting. I need to get my long arm kit and SYE kit first. I’ve only had my Jeep a few months but I want to build it like yours. My buddy has a d 60 set up for his XJ with an artec truss. He sold his Jeep so I may just have to buy his axles! Nice build
What degree reamer did you use to ream the pitman arm to match the ford tre?
yikes I do not recall...here is a forum link www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/reamer-taper-tool-size-234471/
What did you do for a track bar?
Rustys adjustable HD track bar and mount kit for XJs
Rockquest Off-Road thank you!!