Allyn Hane The Lawn Care Nut! Fangirling so hard right now! Dude, you got me into lawn care back when you were a cool season guy. Next time you’re in Minnesota hanging out with the Millennial Farmer, hit me up! I owe you like a million beers.
Great video. Need to get my soil tested. Front yard has a hard time with fungus every year while the back doesn’t. I just put down liquid iron and the front didn’t really get a pop. But the back looks amazing. I’m thinking the soil balance in the front is off and needs to be tended to.
I had a lawn fungus problem every year. When I got the PH right, the problem went away. The fungicides fought the symptoms, but never solved the problem. The lawn fungicides are kind of like taking anti-biotics...they kill both the good and the bad fungi.
Hi- A 10 pH is possible but pretty unlikely. It’s a logarithmic scale so 10 pH is 1000 times more alkaline than a 7 pH! I got into this a couple years ago too and expensively learned that the cheap meters are complete garbage- you need to spend about $60 ($150 is way better) and up to get a meter that has a shot at accuracy. Even then the meters have pretty short life span because of how the sensor works. I play around with hydroponics and test 2-3 times per week and I’m now using the color changing liquid type of testing. A $4 bottle of the test liquid lasts forever and results correlate nicely with the professional soil testing I do every couple of years through the university or a local commercial soil testing lab. Also- let’s not kid ourselves, the video is selling kits for the commissions. Any soil scientist will tell you it is not practical to meaningfully change soil pH over large area like a lawn and that a 7 pH is really good for commonly grown turf species.
For your cheap meter buy a bottle of 7.0ph and set the meter it should have a little hole and a regular screw you can turn up or down to adjust it and it should help get you closer without spending a ton of money
You are so very correct in what you’re saying, but your soil test should also include your CEC’s. This is a major component of the soil properties that not many people are aware of and or have no knowledge of.
@@suburbanacreage CEC’s is your cation exchange capacity. Simply put, your organic matter in the soil. You can make all the adjustments you want in the soil but if your CEC’s are low, you’re wasting your money. This subject takes awhile to explain but it’s very interesting and majorly important. RUclips “Joe Knows cation exchange Capacity” and read up. I do know that you will be intrigued. Now we have awesome products to raise the CEC’s with out spreading compost, its called Carbon G
Glad my stupid humor is appreciated by at least one other person. If you want more, check out my mouse trap video. It’s got fake video sponsors, fake bathroom cams, fake app screens, it was fun to make and one of my personal favorites. The video tanked though and got very few views. Oh well! ruclips.net/video/81SmiHi4Mn8/видео.htmlsi=hFrGcKG8phsa15-Y
Yup that’s the plan! First part is to check and see where things are at and come up with a strategy for the season. Next part would be check and verify that the strategy is ACTUALLY working. Unfortunately, it takes time to make changes so for my purposes, I think a test in the spring, then again in the fall is plenty. I’m sure the hardcore types are testing more frequently.
It’s more so I can hop on and off without setting the brake but riding while standing up is another benefit. I have a video about it actually ruclips.net/video/dm4PtyyuLbU/видео.html
What would more interesting would leave one area untreated except for straight urea/nitrogen (maybe ammonia sulfate in your case?) and if all those other products really help
Great idea. I do have a large yard and the front is treated differently than the back and side yard areas so in a way I’m kinda doing that. Most of the time and effort goes into the large front yard, but it’ll be interesting to see if it tests better than the backyard at the end of the season.
Trying to correct for a specific nutrient like potassium is a slippery slope. Too much pushing of potassium will interfere with both calcium and magnesium IMO the average homeowner should consult with the local extension service regarding turf. They are trained soil scientist completely knowledgeable for turf grass in ur climate zone. Universities like Penn state and Purdue do incredible soil analysis with very extensive results and recommendations. Please do a peer review search on that liquid aeration product. It’s not worth ur $ and time. IMO synthetic fertilizer is a joke. U are better off improving the soil system that drives turf nutrition that creating a grass crack addict. U can mainline steroids (synthetic fertilizer) and build instant muscle or u can learn how to improve the system (organic) and allow nature to build the muscle. U can throw all the iron out u want. Unless that iron is bioavailabile to soul microbes it’s doing absolutely nothing. The same with potassium. Pellitized lime is also usefless because it takes forever to breakdown. Pulverized is the way to go. Just looking at ur soil I believe ur organic matter is low. That’s what probably will improve ur conditions immediately. If u improve the organic content u will rarely have to add that much N. While I applaud ur efforts the direction ur going is not a long term solution
So we get nitrogen from the environment itself- looots of it (no need to buy and pour). Limestone contains lots of CALCIUM which is key ingredient for all plant to grow as well. Why Calcium; for de-compaction. So, oxygen, nitrogen, water, plus calcium is all any vegetation needs to grow.
No, our soil here is either peat land and only grows swamp plants or river sand that nutrients pass through very quickly. Perhaps your place has much different soil but you can't say a blanket statement like this.
DUDE ! You entitled your video "STOP Fertilizing" , BUT... that's exactly what you did !! WHO would believe you, esp when U R advertizing for product manufacturers/resellers??
DAVE! The next two words in the title are “your grass” and the video challenges the idea that the grass plant itself needs fertilizing by suggesting that soil structure is more important and often overlooked. Nothing was paid for or sponsored in the video and everything I used was bought at full retail price with my own money. If I don’t link the products I use, people ask in the comments. I’m fully transparent but if you really don’t like it, don’t click on them. Sorry this video didn’t do it for you!
Check out the FASTEST way to grow grass using the “pre germination” method: ruclips.net/video/WRKT0ZIwHhI/видео.htmlsi=a9xDOkZCb4rWdSEu
Well done! Lawn looks great bro!
Allyn Hane The Lawn Care Nut! Fangirling so hard right now! Dude, you got me into lawn care back when you were a cool season guy. Next time you’re in Minnesota hanging out with the Millennial Farmer, hit me up! I owe you like a million beers.
@@suburbanacreage likewise bro, next time you're down here on the west coast of FL Ill take you out fishing.
Great video. Need to get my soil tested. Front yard has a hard time with fungus every year while the back doesn’t. I just put down liquid iron and the front didn’t really get a pop. But the back looks amazing. I’m thinking the soil balance in the front is off and needs to be tended to.
Only one way to find out!
I had a lawn fungus problem every year. When I got the PH right, the problem went away. The fungicides fought the symptoms, but never solved the problem. The lawn fungicides are kind of like taking anti-biotics...they kill both the good and the bad fungi.
I bought a digital soil tester and it shows my soil between 9 and 10 pH. Your 7.01 looks really nice from here ... :)
Hi- A 10 pH is possible but pretty unlikely. It’s a logarithmic scale so 10 pH is 1000 times more alkaline than a 7 pH! I got into this a couple years ago too and expensively learned that the cheap meters are complete garbage- you need to spend about $60 ($150 is way better) and up to get a meter that has a shot at accuracy. Even then the meters have pretty short life span because of how the sensor works. I play around with hydroponics and test 2-3 times per week and I’m now using the color changing liquid type of testing. A $4 bottle of the test liquid lasts forever and results correlate nicely with the professional soil testing I do every couple of years through the university or a local commercial soil testing lab.
Also- let’s not kid ourselves, the video is selling kits for the commissions. Any soil scientist will tell you it is not practical to meaningfully change soil pH over large area like a lawn and that a 7 pH is really good for commonly grown turf species.
For your cheap meter buy a bottle of 7.0ph and set the meter it should have a little hole and a regular screw you can turn up or down to adjust it and it should help get you closer without spending a ton of money
Get a second test and hopefully it’s wrong. You need to lower fast
You are so very correct in what you’re saying, but your soil test should also include your CEC’s. This is a major component of the soil properties that not many people are aware of and or have no knowledge of.
Dang Jeff, giving me homework over here! Great comment and an opportunity to level up even more. Thanks for the suggestion AND education!
@@suburbanacreage CEC’s is your cation exchange capacity. Simply put, your organic matter in the soil. You can make all the adjustments you want in the soil but if your CEC’s are low, you’re wasting your money. This subject takes awhile to explain but it’s very interesting and majorly important. RUclips “Joe Knows cation exchange Capacity” and read up. I do know that you will be intrigued. Now we have awesome products to raise the CEC’s with out spreading compost, its called Carbon G
I do soil samples. CECs ?
@@cwilks5592 google, Joe Knows Cation exchange Capacity
@@cwilks5592 google Joe Knows Cation Exchange Capacity.
Soil compaction can have a large impact on PH
Thx for sharing this
Once I saw your email, I couldn’t hit like fast enough 😂
Glad my stupid humor is appreciated by at least one other person. If you want more, check out my mouse trap video. It’s got fake video sponsors, fake bathroom cams, fake app screens, it was fun to make and one of my personal favorites. The video tanked though and got very few views. Oh well!
ruclips.net/video/81SmiHi4Mn8/видео.htmlsi=hFrGcKG8phsa15-Y
Be nice to check soil at end of season to see if anything really changed, or did we just waste our money and time.
Yup that’s the plan! First part is to check and see where things are at and come up with a strategy for the season. Next part would be check and verify that the strategy is ACTUALLY working. Unfortunately, it takes time to make changes so for my purposes, I think a test in the spring, then again in the fall is plenty. I’m sure the hardcore types are testing more frequently.
The best parts is recognizing you disconnected your kill switch on the John Deere so you could ride standing up off the seat! Genius
It’s more so I can hop on and off without setting the brake but riding while standing up is another benefit. I have a video about it actually
ruclips.net/video/dm4PtyyuLbU/видео.html
What would more interesting would leave one area untreated except for straight urea/nitrogen (maybe ammonia sulfate in your case?) and if all those other products really help
Great idea. I do have a large yard and the front is treated differently than the back and side yard areas so in a way I’m kinda doing that. Most of the time and effort goes into the large front yard, but it’ll be interesting to see if it tests better than the backyard at the end of the season.
0:02 What kind of grass? Thank you!
It’s mostly Black Beauty Ultra, the most grass seed IMO available on Amazon. geni.us/HMnMW0 (Amazon)
Great video
Hey thanks!
good info. but your local county agent eill do it for FAR EEEEEEE
Trying to correct for a specific nutrient like potassium is a slippery slope. Too much pushing of potassium will interfere with both calcium and magnesium
IMO the average homeowner should consult with the local extension service regarding turf. They are trained soil scientist completely knowledgeable for turf grass in ur climate zone.
Universities like Penn state and Purdue do incredible soil analysis with very extensive results and recommendations.
Please do a peer review search on that liquid aeration product. It’s not worth ur $ and time.
IMO synthetic fertilizer is a joke. U are better off improving the soil system that drives turf nutrition that creating a grass crack addict. U can mainline steroids (synthetic fertilizer) and build instant muscle or u can learn how to improve the system (organic) and allow nature to build the muscle.
U can throw all the iron out u want. Unless that iron is bioavailabile to soul microbes it’s doing absolutely nothing. The same with potassium. Pellitized lime is also usefless because it takes forever to breakdown. Pulverized is the way to go.
Just looking at ur soil I believe ur organic matter is low. That’s what probably will improve ur conditions immediately.
If u improve the organic content u will rarely have to add that much N.
While I applaud ur efforts the direction ur going is not a long term solution
So we get nitrogen from the environment itself- looots of it (no need to buy and pour). Limestone contains lots of CALCIUM which is key ingredient for all plant to grow as well. Why Calcium; for de-compaction. So, oxygen, nitrogen, water, plus calcium is all any vegetation needs to grow.
No, our soil here is either peat land and only grows swamp plants or river sand that nutrients pass through very quickly.
Perhaps your place has much different soil but you can't say a blanket statement like this.
DUDE ! You entitled your video "STOP Fertilizing" , BUT... that's exactly what you did !! WHO would believe you, esp when U R advertizing for product manufacturers/resellers??
DAVE! The next two words in the title are “your grass” and the video challenges the idea that the grass plant itself needs fertilizing by suggesting that soil structure is more important and often overlooked. Nothing was paid for or sponsored in the video and everything I used was bought at full retail price with my own money. If I don’t link the products I use, people ask in the comments. I’m fully transparent but if you really don’t like it, don’t click on them. Sorry this video didn’t do it for you!