The girl in me thought I could not do this .... but I followed the video by Contractor John and now my toilet works perfectly. (it was really hard to flush- the flapper was worn out Thanks!
This is EXCELLENT! This is exactly what broke on my toilet…OK, I’m jumping in the car and I’m off to the Mansfield plumbing supply store. Thank you Contractor John for this excellent video
Just watched this video & I’m off to the big box store to get my parts... looks easy enough for me to fix myself. Thanks Contractor John... you are a $$ saver for this single Mum!!
I replaced the red gasket in my Mansfield toilet tank & the refill tower would not stop running. This is at least the third, if not the fourth time, I've replaced this gasket in the 12 years I've owned my newly built home. So I knew what I was doing; however, water kept running in from the fill tower & this had not happened in the past. After many videos, one comment you said fixed my problem. That comment was to be sure the red gasket moved freely once in place. I almost ignored that comment since this is not my first rodeo--for the two toilets in my house. BUT!!! The problem I had this time was the water not stopping to fill the tank once the float was lifted in place. I decided to check the red gasket to turn freely & IT DIDN'T! I ran my fingers around it to feel for the placement & I felt a tiny movement. Then it DID turn freely. I turned on the water & after the tank filled, I no longer heard water running. I flushed the toilet, it filled (faster) & the running water stopped!! I almost went to the store to buy a new fill tower but felt that wasn't the problem. And one other comment you made...the water shut off should not be on an outside wall. Mine is!! A north wall at that! However, about 2.5 to 3 ft from the house is a cinder block wall. I don't know if that matters. I had to write to you to say: THANK YOU contractor John!!! You save me money & healed my aching head!! ❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you for leaving this comment. I replaced my valve seal yesterday and it would flush easily but wouldn’t stop running. Saw your comment and I checked to see if mine spun freely and it didn’t. Your comment saved me a trip to Home Depot tomorrow. ❤
My toilet has been running every hour or two to fill the tank up because of a leaky flush valve gasket seal. The first video I saw showing how to make this repair went through the whole process of removing the tank to completely replace the Mansfield 210 flush valve. This one shows that, as I expected, we can do a partial repair to replace the red gasket and the upper parts of the flush valve without removing the tank. I'm glad I found this video! It will save me a lot of time. Thank you!
This is great. I have this problem with one of my toilets and will give it a try. At the very least, I now know where to find the model # of the one I have. That alone saved me time. Thank you!
The local Home Depot people couldn't tell me how to take the stop bumper off. I was told the whole column had to be replaced to repair the seal. Thank you for posting this video
I started by looking up a video on how to replace the whole flush assembly... then I came across your video which clearly explained to me how the red gasket is SUPPOSED to work... turns out that's all I needed to replace! Thanks!
Thanks John. My son's house has the exact toilets you show. I thought I'd end up pulling the tank with your video I'm sure to fix this . Thanks for the excellent video!!!
Larry, Glad I could help you... If you head over to ContractorJohn.com and follow me you won't miss any of my new content, plus I will send you weekly tips and tricks and a free gift!! Contractor John
Thank you very much for your excellent video. My friend has two Mansfield toilets in her condo. I may as well do both of them if I am going to do one of them.
Useful video but have question. I bought mansfield flush value and tank seal. I replaced both and I'm still getting a leak into the bowl. Even though it's new I reseated the red value and it still leaks. I'm not getting any leaks outside the bowl. I've done this before and it worked. I've taken it apart several times and redid everything but still leaks.
My stop cap actually broke off the top. Broke off the threads too. I bought a new flush valve, that replaces the old style plunger, with a flapper. I don't feel like taking the tank off the toilet to replace it. So I'm just going to try using epoxy on the broken stop cap, and see how long it lasts... If it breaks again, I'll just have to take off the tank, and replace the whole thing. Thanks for posting this video!
+metalmoto Your welcome... hope that works for you. Check out my book for DIYers and remodelers The Dimension Bible. DimensionBible.com Use promo code YTFS for FREE shipping on your order
very helpful video , easy to understand, concise and to the point. does it matter if a buy a replacement handle that has metal instead of a plastic part that lifts the plunger? will it last longer than plastic or will it break the plunger ? thank you
John, thanks for the great tip! My toilet works fine now. The other toilet works fine, but occasionally, there is a split second "whooshing" sound from inside the tank, otherwise the toilet works fine. What could it be? It drives me nuts!
Thanks for posting this video! I've replaced the red gasket at the bottom, the stop cap, the flush valve and the front mount tank lever but the handle still gets stuck down causing the toilet to run. Any suggestions? Thanks!
+Erin Herman Thanks for writing.... I have had the same problem a few times. Here is what I have done to fix it. Make sure when the float ball drops it does not come in contact with the plunger. Secondly spray some lubricant like lithium grease where the trip handle bends and goes behind the nut that holds the handle to the tank. You may have to back off the nut, (remember this is counter clockwise nut) and spin the threaded piece and spray grease into (between) it and spin it around. One of those 2 things have always fixed that problem for me. Good Luck Contractor John
hi,, i have the same ballcock set up,,,i need to adjust the water level because its about 1.5 inches below the overflow,,,,but i dont have a screw on top of the blue thing,,, so i dont know how to adjust the level....any suggestions?? thanks!
Healthy... lol The arm that comes from the fill tower that connects to the ball is brass and can be bent slightly to increase or decrease the water level. BE VERY CAREFUL, bending it as you can break the connection at the fill tower very easily. If you look at the arm, I bet it is already bent down, if the water is that low, so slowly and carefully rotate the brass rod so the "bend" is to the side or even up until you get the desired water level. Hope that helps you out. Contractor John Check out my new book The Dimension Bible for Remodelers and DIYers DimensionBible.com
Hi Contractor John! Thank you for your helpful videos! So my Trip Lever Handle broke. A friend was going to fix it. And also bought a new flush valve. Turns out the trip lever handle he bought didn't work with the system (as it had ridges or something that caused it to stick), so I was going to buy a different one. But in the meantime my toilet now keeps running... which it never has before. Do you think this has to do with the flush valve he installed? (It's a white Mansfield flush valve).Perhaps the wrong one or just improperly installed? Before running out to get a replacement handle/lever, I'm wondering if I need to get any other parts...?? Any insight? Thank you!
Sir, I loved you repair video on the Mansfield 160 toilet. I went to you Blog page but could not find the link for where to find the Mansfield parts. Can you point me in the right direction.
I have the EXACT same setup. a Mansfield 160 .... a few months ago it gradually started giving problems, sometimes flush sometimes not, get stopped up easy etc. I have since cleaned Jets,syphon hole & replaced the White/blue tall valve thing on the far left with a new universal one from Home depot. So the toilet is working "better" but will NOT flush simply by pushing the handle down, ya have to Hold it down & could to 10 or so, otherwise the valve thing will drop back down . ... WHAT makes that Flush valve thing drop back down so soon?
I have tried universal parts and they work fine for some things but toilet parts do not seem to be one of them. Your problem is a mystery.... I had it too and tried genuine parts and it worked fine. Some things will forever remain a mystery Use this link for parts mansfieldparts.com/ Thanks for watching
Hi. I have a Mansfield toilet which uses a 211 float plunger/cylinder which constantly pulls the rubber valve seal right out of the first groove. I'm on my 2nd gasket. It's only 6 months old; I don't use toilet tabs so I don't think the seal is bad already. The toilet isn't difficult to flush. Do you know what the problem could be? Thanks.
I have the same toilet, and my problem isn't a leaky gasket. My plunger assembly doesn't fall down after the flush is initiated. I need a new stop valve on top of it, but I don't know if that will completely fix it. Any idea?!
Christopher Neville That was the problem with the toilet at my house. I replaced the stop cap and the problem was solved. I seem to remember when I ordered parts it was a better option, cost wise to buy the complete rebuild kit, and save the other parts for when I needed them. Contractor John ContractorJohn.com
UPDATE. Think I figured it out..I have a 211 and I purchased a 210...very subtle difference but I clearly see the bottom area is much larger on the 210 allowing more air compared with my 211. Thats why the plunger is staying up so long. Any ideas where I could find a 211 plunger/flush valve? All I seem to find on line is the 210 Hi John, I just changed the red seal and also changed the plunger. For some reason the new plunger stays up much longer than my old one wasting a lot of water on each flush. (I live in California so water is precious) I noticed the bottom of my old plunger only had one hole and the new one has 2. Thought that might be the issue as the plunger needs air to stay open so I taped up one of the holes hoping that would allow less air and make it close quicker, but that didnt do anything. Any suggestions? I really hate to see the entire tank empty now with this new plunger and waste so much water. (In the past, if I needed a more powerful flush, I could always just hold the handle down longer, so I dont always need the tank to completely empty out
Kevin, Check out this page on Amazon, should fix you up. www.amazon.com/LASCO-04-2112-Mansfield-2-Inch-Plastic/dp/B00068YCI2 Contractor John... check out my new book The Dimension Bible for remodelers and DIYers ENTER CODE MM20 and get 20% off for a limited time ..... DimensionBible.com
I've replaced the red rubber seal, insured that it is seated in the top groove and that it rotates freely and is flat. And the toilet is still leaking. A lot. Any other ideas?
+Shawn McNulty Shawn, Check the bottom of plunger itself, the part that fits against the red gasket. Another thing you will want to check is that the trip lever handle is not sitting at an angle and slightly holding the plunger up off the red gasket. Hope one of those suggestions help Contractor John
If it did snap off you will have to replace the whole assembly, which will probably involve removing the tank. If you are a rookie DIYer I would suggest this is a job for a plumber. Before you do that look very carefully at where the stop cap threads on. I will bet the top of the cap broke off all the way around and the center of the stop cap is still screwed on the "tower".
John my Mansfield hisses but it's not running into the bowl. but if I hold the float down for a second or two it rises and the leaking stop and does not return. I hate to replace the wrong part any ideas.
I took my tank off to replace the entire valve. I can't get the nut off the bottom of the tank. A plumber wants to charge me $119 to come to it. I have all the parts and I've fixed toilets before. How can I get the damn nut off the bottom of the tank? It's prob a 4" plastic nut.
Nice video. Mansfield toilets are terrible IMO. One week after installation the float valve in mine started leaking tried adjusting it, no luck, replaced it with a fluidmaster problem solved. Now my stopper is leaking, it is very poorly designed and cheaply made parts. I will never buy mansfield again, not worth the headache.
Can you help me? The blue floaty bubble thing doesn’t float high enough and I can hear it running constantly. If I touch it and lift it up it stops… but it eventually lowers water level a tiny bit and keeps making noise
The girl in me thought I could not do this .... but I followed the video by Contractor John and now my toilet works perfectly. (it was really hard to flush- the flapper was worn out Thanks!
Same here!
This is EXCELLENT! This is exactly what broke on my toilet…OK, I’m jumping in the car and I’m off to the Mansfield plumbing supply store. Thank you Contractor John for this excellent video
Just watched this video & I’m off to the big box store to get my parts... looks easy enough for me to fix myself. Thanks Contractor John... you are a $$ saver for this single Mum!!
I replaced the red gasket in my Mansfield toilet tank & the refill tower would not stop running. This is at least the third, if not the fourth time, I've replaced this gasket in the 12 years I've owned my newly built home. So I knew what I was doing; however, water kept running in from the fill tower & this had not happened in the past. After many videos, one comment you said fixed my problem. That comment was to be sure the red gasket moved freely once in place. I almost ignored that comment since this is not my first rodeo--for the two toilets in my house. BUT!!! The problem I had this time was the water not stopping to fill the tank once the float was lifted in place. I decided to check the red gasket to turn freely & IT DIDN'T! I ran my fingers around it to feel for the placement & I felt a tiny movement. Then it DID turn freely. I turned on the water & after the tank filled, I no longer heard water running. I flushed the toilet, it filled (faster) & the running water stopped!! I almost went to the store to buy a new fill tower but felt that wasn't the problem. And one other comment you made...the water shut off should not be on an outside wall. Mine is!! A north wall at that! However, about 2.5 to 3 ft from the house is a cinder block wall. I don't know if that matters. I had to write to you to say: THANK YOU contractor John!!! You save me money & healed my aching head!! ❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you for leaving this comment. I replaced my valve seal yesterday and it would flush easily but wouldn’t stop running. Saw your comment and I checked to see if mine spun freely and it didn’t. Your comment saved me a trip to Home Depot tomorrow. ❤
My toilet has been running every hour or two to fill the tank up because of a leaky flush valve gasket seal. The first video I saw showing how to make this repair went through the whole process of removing the tank to completely replace the Mansfield 210 flush valve. This one shows that, as I expected, we can do a partial repair to replace the red gasket and the upper parts of the flush valve without removing the tank. I'm glad I found this video! It will save me a lot of time. Thank you!
You are entirely welcome. Hope the repair went well!
This is great. I have this problem with one of my toilets and will give it a try. At the very least, I now know where to find the model # of the one I have. That alone saved me time. Thank you!
A clear step by step in making a common repair. Making a repair for a friend and had not seen a "manchester" valve before. Thanks for the video John!
The local Home Depot people couldn't tell me how to take the stop bumper off. I was told the whole column had to be replaced to repair the seal. Thank you for posting this video
WoW, I think you may have answered my questions with this Mansfield repair. I’m gonna give this a try.
Thanks again!
Glad I could help you... check out my weekly podcast DYHouseMedic.com
Just fixed my toilet using this video. Thanks Contractor John!
Great video. I didn’t know what type of flush valve I had and had never seen one like it. So this video really helped me out.
Nice Job Contractor John. I watch a lot of these and this is well done.
Thank you Contradtor John - Excellent detailed video !!... Fixed the sticking plunger assy with a new gasket change 100%
I started by looking up a video on how to replace the whole flush assembly... then I came across your video which clearly explained to me how the red gasket is SUPPOSED to work... turns out that's all I needed to replace! Thanks!
Thank you! This was so helpful, and I fixed my own toilet!
Thanks for the video! I had the right seal but couldn't get it to work. I didn't know about the groove until you pointed it out. Seal works great now!
+Matt Riegel Your welcome! Check out ContrasctorJohn.com for more resources including my blog and new book.
Contractor John
Thanks John. My son's house has the exact toilets you show. I thought I'd end up pulling the tank with your video I'm sure to fix this . Thanks for the excellent video!!!
Larry,
Glad I could help you... If you head over to ContractorJohn.com and follow me you won't miss any of my new content, plus I will send you weekly tips and tricks and a free gift!!
Contractor John
Thank you. This makes it all very clear. I know how to do it correctly now.
+Margaret Eginton You are welcome.
Contractor John
Thank you very much for your excellent video. My friend has two Mansfield toilets in her condo. I may as well do both of them if I am going to do one of them.
Useful video but have question. I bought mansfield flush value and tank seal. I replaced both and I'm still getting a leak into the bowl. Even though it's new I reseated the red value and it still leaks. I'm not getting any leaks outside the bowl. I've done this before and it worked. I've taken it apart several times and redid everything but still leaks.
Thank you for the tips they helped me immensely
Thanks, this was much needed information.
My stop cap actually broke off the top. Broke off the threads too. I bought a new flush valve, that replaces the old style plunger, with a flapper. I don't feel like taking the tank off the toilet to replace it. So I'm just going to try using epoxy on the broken stop cap, and see how long it lasts... If it breaks again, I'll just have to take off the tank, and replace the whole thing. Thanks for posting this video!
+metalmoto Your welcome... hope that works for you.
Check out my book for DIYers and remodelers The Dimension Bible. DimensionBible.com Use promo code YTFS for FREE shipping on your order
Very helpful! Thank you.
Very helpful video. Thanks so much
very helpful video , easy to understand, concise and to the point. does it matter if a buy a replacement handle that has metal instead of a plastic part that lifts the plunger? will it last longer than plastic or will it break the plunger ? thank you
Thank you for your compliment. I don't think a metal handle would matter.
I bought a replacement piece and it has the post as well. Should that be replaced? It didn't unscrew easily though.
Great advice. Thank you!!
Thank you exactly what I needed to do today!!!
Madore Family Your welcome... Looking for ideas for other videos, if you have any.
Contractor John
thanks for your help with this. exactly the instructional video I was looking for!
+jswin1 Your Welcome........
Contractor John
John what do you do if the handle is too difficult to raise the plunger?
John, thanks for the great tip! My toilet works fine now. The other toilet works fine, but occasionally, there is a split second "whooshing" sound from inside the tank, otherwise the toilet works fine. What could it be? It drives me nuts!
Big help. Thanks!
Thank you JOhn. YOu helped me!!! :)
Thanks for posting this video! I've replaced the red gasket at the bottom, the stop cap, the flush valve and the front mount tank lever but the handle still gets stuck down causing the toilet to run. Any suggestions? Thanks!
+Erin Herman Thanks for writing.... I have had the same problem a few times. Here is what I have done to fix it. Make sure when the float ball drops it does not come in contact with the plunger. Secondly spray some lubricant like lithium grease where the trip handle bends and goes behind the nut that holds the handle to the tank. You may have to back off the nut, (remember this is counter clockwise nut) and spin the threaded piece and spray grease into (between) it and spin it around. One of those 2 things have always fixed that problem for me.
Good Luck
Contractor John
hi,, i have the same ballcock set up,,,i need to adjust the water level because its about 1.5 inches below the overflow,,,,but i dont have a screw on top of the blue thing,,, so i dont know how to adjust the level....any suggestions?? thanks!
Healthy... lol
The arm that comes from the fill tower that connects to the ball is brass and can be bent slightly to increase or decrease the water level. BE VERY CAREFUL, bending it as you can break the connection at the fill tower very easily. If you look at the arm, I bet it is already bent down, if the water is that low, so slowly and carefully rotate the brass rod so the "bend" is to the side or even up until you get the desired water level. Hope that helps you out.
Contractor John
Check out my new book The Dimension Bible for Remodelers and DIYers
DimensionBible.com
Hi Contractor John! Thank you for your helpful videos! So my Trip Lever Handle broke. A friend was going to fix it. And also bought a new flush valve. Turns out the trip lever handle he bought didn't work with the system (as it had ridges or something that caused it to stick), so I was going to buy a different one. But in the meantime my toilet now keeps running... which it never has before. Do you think this has to do with the flush valve he installed? (It's a white Mansfield flush valve).Perhaps the wrong one or just improperly installed? Before running out to get a replacement handle/lever, I'm wondering if I need to get any other parts...?? Any insight? Thank you!
Or perhaps the fill tower (I think it's called) may have been damaged???
Sir,
I loved you repair video on the Mansfield 160 toilet. I went to you Blog page but could not find the link for where to find the Mansfield parts. Can you point me in the right direction.
I have the EXACT same setup. a Mansfield 160 .... a few months ago it gradually started giving problems, sometimes flush sometimes not, get stopped up easy etc. I have since cleaned Jets,syphon hole & replaced the White/blue tall valve thing on the far left with a new universal one from Home depot. So the toilet is working "better" but will NOT flush simply by pushing the handle down, ya have to Hold it down & could to 10 or so, otherwise the valve thing will drop back down . ... WHAT makes that Flush valve thing drop back down so soon?
I have tried universal parts and they work fine for some things but toilet parts do not seem to be one of them. Your problem is a mystery.... I had it too and tried genuine parts and it worked fine. Some things will forever remain a mystery
Use this link for parts mansfieldparts.com/
Thanks for watching
The flush valve is a phisical function thing. I mean, its a real simple concept. Dont understand why it just stays up about 2-3 seconds then drops!
Hi. I have a Mansfield toilet which uses a 211 float plunger/cylinder which constantly pulls the rubber valve seal right out of the first groove. I'm on my 2nd gasket. It's only 6 months old; I don't use toilet tabs so I don't think the seal is bad already. The toilet isn't difficult to flush. Do you know what the problem could be? Thanks.
I have the same toilet, and my problem isn't a leaky gasket. My plunger assembly doesn't fall down after the flush is initiated. I need a new stop valve on top of it, but I don't know if that will completely fix it. Any idea?!
Christopher Neville That was the problem with the toilet at my house. I replaced the stop cap and the problem was solved. I seem to remember when I ordered parts it was a better option, cost wise to buy the complete rebuild kit, and save the other parts for when I needed them.
Contractor John ContractorJohn.com
UPDATE. Think I figured it out..I have a 211 and I purchased a 210...very subtle difference but I clearly see the bottom area is much larger on the 210 allowing more air compared with my 211. Thats why the plunger is staying up so long.
Any ideas where I could find a 211 plunger/flush valve? All I seem to find on line is the 210
Hi John, I just changed the red seal and also changed the plunger. For some reason the new plunger stays up much longer than my old one wasting a lot of water on each flush. (I live in California so water is precious) I noticed the bottom of my old plunger only had one hole and the new one has 2. Thought that might be the issue as the plunger needs air to stay open so I taped up one of the holes hoping that would allow less air and make it close quicker, but that didnt do anything. Any suggestions? I really hate to see the entire tank empty now with this new plunger and waste so much water. (In the past, if I needed a more powerful flush, I could always just hold the handle down longer, so I dont always need the tank to completely empty out
Kevin,
Check out this page on Amazon, should fix you up. www.amazon.com/LASCO-04-2112-Mansfield-2-Inch-Plastic/dp/B00068YCI2
Contractor John... check out my new book The Dimension Bible for remodelers and DIYers ENTER CODE MM20 and get 20% off for a limited time ..... DimensionBible.com
***** Thanks! Ordered that from Amazon after I posted my update. Thanks again for your help and awesome video
I just replaced my toilet wax seal. Tip: use plastic straws (cut a suitable length) placed over the bolts to line up the holes in the toilet bottom.
I've replaced the red rubber seal, insured that it is seated in the top groove and that it rotates freely and is flat. And the toilet is still leaking. A lot. Any other ideas?
+Shawn McNulty Shawn, Check the bottom of plunger itself, the part that fits against the red gasket. Another thing you will want to check is that the trip lever handle is not sitting at an angle and slightly holding the plunger up off the red gasket. Hope one of those suggestions help
Contractor John
There are no threads on my stop. It seems to have snapped off 😳
If it did snap off you will have to replace the whole assembly, which will probably involve removing the tank. If you are a rookie DIYer I would suggest this is a job for a plumber. Before you do that look very carefully at where the stop cap threads on. I will bet the top of the cap broke off all the way around and the center of the stop cap is still screwed on the "tower".
Just a tip: Don't replace stuff like a lever or deal unless it breaks. It is wasteful.
John my Mansfield hisses but it's not running into the bowl. but if I hold the float down for a second or two it rises and the leaking stop and does not return. I hate to replace the wrong part any ideas.
I took my tank off to replace the entire valve. I can't get the nut off the bottom of the tank. A plumber wants to charge me $119 to come to it. I have all the parts and I've fixed toilets before. How can I get the damn nut off the bottom of the tank? It's prob a 4" plastic nut.
Nice video. Mansfield toilets are terrible IMO. One week after installation the float valve in mine started leaking tried adjusting it, no luck, replaced it with a fluidmaster problem solved. Now my stopper is leaking, it is very poorly designed and cheaply made parts. I will never buy mansfield again, not worth the headache.
My Mansfield toilet won't flush water just stays in the bowl
My other Mansfield toilet won't flush without holding down the flush lever
Please help
Can you help me? The blue floaty bubble thing doesn’t float high enough and I can hear it running constantly. If I touch it and lift it up it stops… but it eventually lowers water level a tiny bit and keeps making noise