I love the grinding sound of the advance ... I grew up with 70s manual cameras, the sound is right!!! the first ever 35mm SLR I used was a Pentax Spotmatic!!!
My first slr which I bought new in the ‘80s was my Praktica MTL5B ( m42 screw) which I still use today. The screw thread cameras are cheap but brilliant to learn on.
@@careypridgeon I have the Carl Zeiss lenses and a Pentagon 200mm , aCarl Zeiss Flecktogon I picked up recently. The prices of lenses has gone up with mirrorless cameras being able to use them with an adapter.
To shoot film on a budget, very simple, I develop my film, do my own scanning, only black and white film, bought a Nikon FE from a local seller so I was actually able to try the camera before buying it and I limit my number of lens to 2, 50mm and 28mm and I am a VIP member to my local film store giving me a reduction on the price of films
Just a Thought regarding TTL exposure method -- if you rely on the CHINON TTL exposure with that subject -- a 'Light Toned Shell against a WHITE Background' you would get severe UNDER-Exposure as it uses 'Reflected Light Method' so your Phone APP Gadget seemed to use the correct 'Incident Light Method'
Praktica M42 cameras are good and are overlooked. You don't have to mess replacing the Foam light seal as Praktica used felt. Oh and don't forget to pick up a Helios 44M lens
@@Resgerr I also have a few. Mostly various 44's ranging from the first proper M42 model (the silver one with the 13-blade aperture is a M39), to two 44-2's and then a gaggle of 44M's with the auto aperture function for "modern" SLR bodies like the MTL5. It's a glorious addiction! The old 44-2 lenses also work fabulously on my Panasonic GX80 camera, far better than any of my auto-focus lenses.
Some very old cameras use a black string for a light seal, and I have yet to see one with a light leak, which seems like such a fantastic idea even though it's not particularly fancy
Minolta SRT's are also a great option. I have 2 and they feel solid and have not let me down. Lightmeters are still working as well. Keep up the great videos
My go to is a near nos fujica 801st. 50 bucks at a swap meet with some crappy lenses. Add in a few fast 50s, a nice super tacamar 135mm, some pretty slow 35mm lenses. And a couple budget random ones. I have under 200 total in all of that and it's just a sweet setup. Modern style meter with led display... whelp at least not selenium. And the best part is it looks like a new fuji film digital body so no one even questions it out in the wild. I guess I was lucky to find one basically brand new at that price. But in reality if you go to flea markets and stuff you will find plenty of good cameras for a fraction of ebay prices. I have a 5 dollar early exacta, some 10 dollar late cannon bodies that were released along with the digital stuff and fit all the auto lenses up to brand new. A couple neet 120mm cameras. The reall trick is to just get out to places where you will stumble upon them and buy them for next to nothing. Ebay and online prices are crazy now since everyone's already Googled what they have and listed them for 120% of the highest value they saw.
Oh and as far as film goes, hp5 plus is pretty damn nice. Actually the whole ilford line depending on what your in to. And ilford ortho gives awesome results and is super fun to process under red light. For color, kodak gold 200 gives off the most authentic film look ever. And Ekatar is just amazing and fun. Portra is just super clean and nice. Then of course there's velvia 50... man reversal film can be beautiful, if not exactly accurate to what your eye sees. But velvia 50 usualy turns out to be exactly what I wanted my eyes to see. It's a super fun. And don't be afraid to process it yourself, it's all super simple if you can keep the temperate right.
(my 2c worth) if you're on a budget, stay away from film. just get a cheap used DSLR with kit lens. with film, at nearly 50c per shot, you want good quality gear. (thats 35mm - larger formats are even more expensive!) I recommend a Nikon F2 SB / AS with only ONE Nikkor lens. either 28mm 2.8 ais if you like wide, or 55 2.8 Micro if you like a standard lens. Don't be tempted to buy more than 1 lens or use zooms. Choose a good quality film stock (trix or hp5) and stick with it. develop at home with D76.
Many companies sell their products thanks to the "legend". It is the same with cameras and analogue films. There are more expensive cameras such as the famous Pentax K1000 or Praktica LTL5B and famous films like the Ilford HP5. But you can also find replacements that are perfectly adequate for an amateur, such as the Pentax MX, Praktica DTL and the film ilford PAN 400.
Both are superb cameras that are criminally overlooked. I bought the Chinon with 50mm f1.7 and 28mm lenses for £13. My Spotmatic F with 50mm, 35mm and 135mm lenses (all in great condition) were effectively free after selling a couple of other things on in the job lot. The Spotmatic is a rare M42 camera with open aperture metering. The Chinon has a mirror lock up (as part of self timer). Both far superior to the over priced K1000 in my opinion.
I thought I was done buying cameras for awhile. After this video I decided I needed to experience a Chinon. It’s a brand that I would normally walk by because I’ve never heard of it before. Based on your review, some internet research about the Chinon company and other glowing reviews I decided to give it a go. I sought out the CM4 because I wanted a total manual camera that didn’t depend on batteries like the Chinon CE’s or my Minolta XDs for the shutter to work. At first I thought the meter lights on the outside of the viewfinder were cheesy. After playing around with the metering I’ve come to think of them as brilliant because I wear glasses and I don’t have to hunt inside the viewfinder border for metering needles or labels on LEDS. It’s big and bold just outside the viewfinder I can’t miss it. It’s really quite clever. 👍👍 In addition to the meter everything else seems backwards to me. The shutter dial, aperture and focus rings all function opposite rotation compared to my Minoltas. Even the batteries are inserted opposite direction as Minoltas. Not a worry for me, these things will keep me on my toes. Maybe force some different creativity. Yes the body is plastic and it’s light weight, but if you are one to take care of things I don’t see it to be an issue. Vertical metal focal plane shutter. Sharp easy to focus lens. Pentax k-mount for other lenses. It has the basic foundation of way more expensive cameras. The only feature missing that be needed is a self timer. With a tripod and a cable release I don’t think the added complexity is worth it. If you feel you need this feature look for the CM4s model. “S” stands for self timer I’m pleased so far and excited to burn some film through this camera Thanks Roger for the intro to Chinon!
I got myself a rebadged version of this camera the Hanimex 35SL with a Hanimar 55mm f/1.7 in mint condition for $30 U.S. and I love the build quality of this camera. Now I just want to build a system out of this camera and Hanimex lenses with the purpose of building a budget system.
That Chinon is a tank. Think I got mine for a similar price off eBay also, never let me down. I believe if you use the modern equivalent battery it's a stop or so out. The wein cells are the correct replacement but have drawbacks.
I agree with your suggestions. Someone wanting to try film would be smart to join an active film forum or group. I have been given and gifted user cameras. The camera is usually the cheapest part of shooting film anyway.
When I got back into film last year, I picked up a Nikon N60 on ebay for US$6. It's done well for me. Spent a little more to get lenses in good shape, but the body being dirt cheap let me splurge a little. Shortly after I found a nice little Minolta point and shoot at a thrift store for $4. It works beautifully too.
Chasing my youth I restored a Canonet QL17 G111. Then an F-1 because I could not afford one in the 70's. Next an AE-1 because everyone has one. Found my K-2 in the closet. Thanks to you I tried Med Format and a Mamiya 645 joined the bunch. Found a Fujica ST 305 (screw mount) for dirt cheep. Lastly I Found a perfect (looks new) Konica TC with 50 mm 1.7 and 200 mm for $50.00 USD (38 pound ?). I enjoy your channel and have been watching for years.
My first camera in the 1970s was a Chinon CX - identical to your CS with the addition of a double exposure switch. A few years ago I put books of my old photography together, and the Chinon f1.7 lens stood comparison with later Nikon, Canon and other standard lenses. The company made bodies and lenses for various department and mail order stores in the US and Europe, as well as Chinon branded equipment for UK Dixons photographic and electronic chain.
I get asked this question quite a bit. My answer is not about what’s a good inexpensive camera body, but what’s a great line of affordable lenses. Anyone can find cheap bodies but it’s the glass that really makes the difference. You might be on a budget now, but things may change and if you’ve invested in some good glass, you can then upgrade to a more expensive camera body.
I advice people to look for less known brands. I have quite some Cosina cameras and with one the transportation costs of €6.95 were more than the cost of the camera plus 50mm f2 lens. Also I tell them it is worth to have a look at the later film cameras of the early 2000's as nobody thinks they are sexy. The plus of these cameras (besides the price) is that you can put widely available modern glass on them and their auto focus and metering is very good. I am quite fond of the Canon 300V as is your mate Ribsy :-)
My NO#1 tip is to buy a 35mm SLR that has been used very recently or even serviced/tested. Usually you can find a Chinon or perhaps a Konica for €40 with a lens.
Those shell photos are absolutely gorgeous and the street shots in the rain are great too. Regarding cheap cameras and lenses, I've noticed they're getting a little more expensive on eBay as film photography gets more popular.
They are hitting a price. I saw Zeiss Ikon Nettar today on eBay at over £100! I paid £20 for mine a while back. I think the seller see's a trend and puts it up for sale for a similar price. People are not silly though. They just hunt around for a bargain which will eventually come up
if you have Ef lenses, go canon film slr, got 4 of them for 20€, all of them working. no one wants them because the electronics can be fragile and they don't have that classic look. but find a bundle of 4 or 5 of them so you can have spare (or resell them) probably the same for some nikons as well
I use M42 cameras as well. Most are fantastic, well-built cameras for the price. Most people recommend Praktica cameras for cheap M42, but my Mamiya DSX1000 feels like a better camera than my Praktica LTL3. And the Mamiya DSX and/or DTL cameras are around the same price. Along with average metering, you also get a nifty spot meter in the camera (it's not quite as good as a regular spot meter, but it sometimes is useful). Chinon cameras are fantastic as well! I also recently shot Kentmere 100 at 200 and developed it accordingly in XTOL. The results were really amazing and I only loose one stop compared to more expensive 400 speed film. Kentmere film is really a great bargain.
Very nice video Roger. It is still posible to find good cameras for very good prices, and very capable film for very affordable prices. Ultrafine Extreme is also a great option for people living in the US, especially in 100' bulk. It is a nice film for a very affordable price. Another tip, keep an eye peeled on Adorama, sometimes they have great discount on film that is about to expire, but is still good for many more months ahead.
Good advice regarding the cameras for a novice. Most people would go straight for a Nikon or Olympus and these have nearly tripled in price in the last two or three years. As for film, I'd recommend the Ilford XP2 super. Its not too expensive, its a Chromogenic C41 film which can be developed at your local photolab or even at home if you have the means and the chemicals. It has huge exposure latitude, and it is as sharp as sharp could be at 320 asa and very fine grained.
I totally agree with your assessment of the "name" cameras. Prices for Olympus Trip 35's, for example, have gone up quite a bit since I bought mine a few years back. There's some beautiful examples over on Etsy, but the prices are probably a little too high if you ask me. XP2 is one of my goto films :)
I have a brick of XP2. I just developed one in rodinal. Results were good, but I don't have C41. I won't send away I'll just get some C41 and give it a go. I've never used C41.
So it's the mirror slap you like? Like @Resgerr I also have a Praktica MTL5B, and boy does it slap... Lovely old East German kit, built like a tank. Also nice and cheap like the Chinon cameras, definitely something to put on a shortlist.
I have quite a collection of SLRs and DSLRs and Mirrorless too but what I found in SLRs is that the golden age were the models made in the late 60s to the mid 70s. When they started to make electronic ones they often fail as they used connectors that corrode or capacitors that leaked and don't function. These later cameras look great but even in the day, they failed often. I had a Minolta XGM that died in 1992. I recently got an XG7 and it is doing the same failure now. However, the purely mechanical SLRs just keep on going. The ones with the Copal metal shutters are just rock solid. However, skip ahead to the early 2000s and the Canon Rebel SLRs are all plastic but they do take great photos too and they are super cheap.
Some Pentax K mount cameras can be quite good value, especially those made by other cheaper brands such as Phenix, Cosina, etc. Some Cosina derivatives were made into the 2010s with different lens mounts. The Nikon FM/FE -10, Oly' OM-2000, Canon T-60, Voightlander Bessa L/R, as well as the Voightlander 'Bessaflex' M42 cameras. These last two however now command several hundred pounds due to their rarity for what is essential the same internals as can be found in a £15 Cosina CT-1.!!! If you've heard about a 'good value' camera through hype its probably already overinflated. I would warn to stay away from the K-1000 as it is extremely overpriced. I often see it go for double that of the Pentax MX, Pentax's professional camera at the time that is lighter/smaller, and has more features!!!! The K mount also allows for the mounting of m42 lenses (although without auto aperture) with an extremely small adapter Pentax sold themselves, and of which modern versions are still made.
I know this video is a year old but I wanted to say 100 ft rolls run from $75 to 160 here in US. Still a good deal on a per roll basis. and prices seem to be holding at that right now through my suppliers. I usually purchase through B&H here in the states as they seem to always have the largest variety in stock more so than others. I have noticed, however, certain brands have been on back order for quite some time, such as the newly released Kentmere in 120 and Bergger Panchro 400 120. I suppose once the production line catches up it won't be an issue for the Kentmere. The Begger I am very curious about and have not seen many youtube videos reviewing it. I'm guessing it might not be in production anymore. I'll have to do some , sigh, research. LOL
I think everyone shoots film has a budget, but the budget is different for everyone. My most expensive film camera has been my Canon 7 which I bought for 150€, and I have a few others none of which costed me more than 100. I also think camera gear is super overrated and scanner is underrated: a cheap kit like a Canon EOS 500 + 50mm f1.8 scanned with a Plustek will always be better than a Leica M6 + 50mm f2 Summicron (the version doesn't matter) scanned with an Epson V700, if you do it yourself. I think if you have the money you should invest in good processing (develop + scan or prints) first and then in your preferred gear, you're gonna feel a lot more the jump in quality.
As a confirmed Pentax fan I can never understand how relatively little these cameras fetch these days. In the 60s and 70s these cameras were up there with the best, their lenses are superb and yet they go for begger all.
My first camera when I was at school was a Zenith E with a broken meter had to hand meter it was heavy but lenses were affordable pocket money cheap M42 thread plenty of options then upgraded to cannon AT-1 my friend had a Chinnon CS5 with a power winder on it I thought it was the nuts lol
Everyone's on a budget, it's just that some budgets are larger than others. I bought most of my film cameras at estate sales, where they can be had pretty cheap. I actually bought an Agfa box camera for US$1. To keep film costs down, I just watch when the prices drop on Amazon or B&H Photo. My local camera shop also has pretty good deals on film. I haven't gotten a 100' roll yet. Still trying to work out which film I want to get before I commit.
Another informatIve and cracking vid bud :-) As always.... As long as the shutters work to time (ish) an old camera has many many more years in front of it :-) Then there's a CLA to extend its life for another 200 years!! :-)
I find the Canon AV-1 and the Pentax ME also quite inexpensive. Bought them for about €20-€30 each. Especially the Pentax I really enjoy using. I also have a Fujica ST801 with a 55mm 1.8. It has a stopped down light measuring what is quite unusual for M42. But yeah, although all these cameras are nice to use, I always prefer to bring a medium format camera with me.
The AL-1 can be found for the same price, but it's a far nicer camera than the AV-1. By far my favorite of those alder Canon bodies, and the focus confirmation light is 😊
The st801 is an absolute beauty of a camera. Everything's layed out so nice and in the right place. The meter is awesome for the vintage. Even the shutters and mirror run smooth enough for super slow exposers hand held. And they blend right in with new digital bodys since I think their the design they based the digital off of. And best of all they can be had cheap since they don't say cannon or look like something everyone saw in popular movies. Their Tiny and fit in a pocket too compared to a lot of equal quality cameras. I've used mine a tonne and can't remember a single ruined frame due to the camera acting up. I think their absolutely on par with a ae1 or one of the beloved cameras. But better looking and easy to use, altho somewhat more fragile if you beat on them.
@@jw48335 I never heard of the AL. I recently "discovered" the Canon EF which is a mechanical version of the F1. Saw the relative cheap at a camera "trade show" but I didn't buy it. Next time I will do it I find one.
@@Uwe_Ludolf The AL-1 was the very last of the A series. It is one of two FD bodies I kept around after trying them all. It has an improved laser-matte focus screen, which I find a bit better than the A-1. Like the AV-1, it also has aperture priority auto exposure. The "focus assist" feature is the key though. In the center there was a pair of brackets, and when it's in focus, the light would turn green, and if not, it would provide arrows on which way you need to turn the lens. It also had a nicer grip than any of the other A-series. Sadly it lacks an AE lock:/ If you're looking at one, check the battery door, as that is broken most of the time - the first three I looked at were busted. Despite the features, the AL-1 was positioned as an "intro" model, with Canon viewing the focus assist option as attractive to new shooters. In this day and age, I find that hilarious. Why would anyone consider faster focus tools to be only for newbies? Cheers:)
Great video..i have Chinon CM-3 and SLR model...solid but do u have any idea what batteries do both CM-3 and SLR take? Want to ck the light meters...thx
Im going to buy this week a Minolta dynax 4. Dont know why, minolta its not really popular. 700si, dynax 4, dynax 5, 500si,.lot of them under 20£. Maybye because not, old-fashion look 🤔
What ever happened to that old newspaper photographer, you visited him once I think, I can' recall his name, nice guy, is he still around? Best wishes, nice video.
It's easier done than said. If you buy the screw-top plastic cassettes (about 2 quid each from places such as Silverprint), you simply use a little white painters tape. You can use pre-used cassettes though - what you want is a cassette that has about a quarter of an inch of film sticking out of the felt light traps and just use a little double-sided tape to attack the new length of film (in the dark, obviously). You can get pre-used cassettes from eBay or your local film processing lab, just make sure there is a bit of old film sticking out. You CAN open and re-use old film cassettes but I find that's always been more trouble than it's worth and never 100% trustworthy versus light leaks etc. Several videos of how to do it on here!
@@edwardcrosby5034 If by "old" you mean the 1980's Ilford type of cassette, then yes, those are reliable. Not easy to find these days though, I hate to think of how many I just threw away back in the day!
I rewind my cassettes back just enough so the leader is sticking out and then once I loaded it onto the reel I cut the film from the cassette (all in the dark) and save a lip of film sticking out the cassette and use again, even if it's a brand new film from the shop. Just store them carefully I've had disasters with grit in the velvet and nice scratches along the film! I just use some masking tape to attach the new film to the old film cassette. takes practice but it's easy once you get the hang of it. Or as Lloyd said, but the black cassettes.
I've been buying some cameras on Goodwill for extremely cheap for the last few months. eBay is one of the worst places to buy them on. The film bubble will soon burst and the glut of overpriced cameras will disappear
Bulk film. You still need to be careful, it's not always the cheapest option! On one well known website at the moment you can buy a 100ft roll of Kodak Tri-X for £220, that's 2 quid a roll more expensive than buying it pre-rolled in a plastic tub and pretty yellow box for £10.50, so beware! With bulk film you should only pay for the film and one lot of packaging - with pre-rolled you pay for the plastic tub and metal case every time. I noticed that the film you used there has no edge markings. My own experience with Fomapan is the same, no edge markings - any idea why?
From what I've seen bulk film is no bargain here in the US either. I assume if you have a ton of cassettes already and your necessary gear to load it, it's more convenient. I'll stick to $5 a roll for Foma or a bit extra for T-Max. I got it less than $5 a roll at Adorama on sale last month.
@@danem2215 You can save up all your used cassettes and film tubs for using with bulk film, just remember to leave quarter of an inch or so of film hanging out the cassette so you can attach the new film to it ;) Foma in bulk is a real bargain, about half the cost of pre-rolled stock. Ilford not so good but you do save about 15 - 20% and Kodak can actually cost you more depending on where you get it.
I love the grinding sound of the advance ... I grew up with 70s manual cameras, the sound is right!!! the first ever 35mm SLR I used was a Pentax Spotmatic!!!
I love my spotty Brian. Meter is dead but hey ho
My first slr which I bought new in the ‘80s was my Praktica MTL5B ( m42 screw) which I still use today. The screw thread cameras are cheap but brilliant to learn on.
@@careypridgeon I have the Carl Zeiss lenses and a Pentagon 200mm , aCarl Zeiss Flecktogon I picked up recently. The prices of lenses has gone up with mirrorless cameras being able to use them with an adapter.
My first camera was the MTL5. Passed on to me by my grandad. Still use it today.
@@careypridgeon my 200mm is a Pentagon think the Zeiss would be too dear now😱even Helios’ are going up in price
To shoot film on a budget, very simple, I develop my film, do my own scanning, only black and white film, bought a Nikon FE from a local seller so I was actually able to try the camera before buying it and I limit my number of lens to 2, 50mm and 28mm and I am a VIP member to my local film store giving me a reduction on the price of films
Just a Thought regarding TTL exposure method -- if you rely on the CHINON TTL exposure with that subject -- a 'Light Toned Shell against a WHITE Background' you would get severe UNDER-Exposure as it uses 'Reflected Light Method' so your Phone APP Gadget seemed to use the correct 'Incident Light Method'
Yes! Peter in point, as always! That's why it's good to have one 'old dog' around, who knows 'why' and 'how'! 👍
Praktica M42 cameras are good and are overlooked. You don't have to mess replacing the Foam light seal as Praktica used felt. Oh and don't forget to pick up a Helios 44M lens
Exactly what I have, a MTL5B with a 44M-3 as the main lens.
I have a few Helios lenses
@@Resgerr I also have a few. Mostly various 44's ranging from the first proper M42 model (the silver one with the 13-blade aperture is a M39), to two 44-2's and then a gaggle of 44M's with the auto aperture function for "modern" SLR bodies like the MTL5. It's a glorious addiction! The old 44-2 lenses also work fabulously on my Panasonic GX80 camera, far better than any of my auto-focus lenses.
Some very old cameras use a black string for a light seal, and I have yet to see one with a light leak, which seems like such a fantastic idea even though it's not particularly fancy
Old soviet Zenit with Helios . "Heavy is good, heavy is reliable. If it doesn't work you can always hit them with it."
In the late 70s my younger brother bought himself a Zenit. He used to call it ' The Tank '.
Yep, Boris the blade, big fan of 'Snatch' here.
Minolta SRT's are also a great option.
I have 2 and they feel solid and have not let me down. Lightmeters are still working as well.
Keep up the great videos
I bought an SRT (and coincidentally was given one on the same day) for cheap and the 45mm lens included was astonishingly sharp. They're great cameras
I have two SRT's as well (both Supers), one silver and the other black. Great cameras :)
Yeah, Minolta is well underrated IMHO. And shouldn't be - Minolta lenses are razor sharp and great quality, so are film bodies
My go to is a near nos fujica 801st. 50 bucks at a swap meet with some crappy lenses. Add in a few fast 50s, a nice super tacamar 135mm, some pretty slow 35mm lenses. And a couple budget random ones. I have under 200 total in all of that and it's just a sweet setup. Modern style meter with led display... whelp at least not selenium. And the best part is it looks like a new fuji film digital body so no one even questions it out in the wild. I guess I was lucky to find one basically brand new at that price. But in reality if you go to flea markets and stuff you will find plenty of good cameras for a fraction of ebay prices. I have a 5 dollar early exacta, some 10 dollar late cannon bodies that were released along with the digital stuff and fit all the auto lenses up to brand new. A couple neet 120mm cameras. The reall trick is to just get out to places where you will stumble upon them and buy them for next to nothing. Ebay and online prices are crazy now since everyone's already Googled what they have and listed them for 120% of the highest value they saw.
Oh and as far as film goes, hp5 plus is pretty damn nice. Actually the whole ilford line depending on what your in to. And ilford ortho gives awesome results and is super fun to process under red light. For color, kodak gold 200 gives off the most authentic film look ever. And Ekatar is just amazing and fun. Portra is just super clean and nice. Then of course there's velvia 50... man reversal film can be beautiful, if not exactly accurate to what your eye sees. But velvia 50 usualy turns out to be exactly what I wanted my eyes to see. It's a super fun. And don't be afraid to process it yourself, it's all super simple if you can keep the temperate right.
(my 2c worth) if you're on a budget, stay away from film. just get a cheap used DSLR with kit lens.
with film, at nearly 50c per shot, you want good quality gear. (thats 35mm - larger formats are even more expensive!) I recommend a Nikon F2 SB / AS with only ONE Nikkor lens. either 28mm 2.8 ais if you like wide, or 55 2.8 Micro if you like a standard lens. Don't be tempted to buy more than 1 lens or use zooms.
Choose a good quality film stock (trix or hp5) and stick with it. develop at home with D76.
Your videos are always a breath of fresh air in a sea of gear reviews! Thank you for always inspiring us to make beautiful images!!
Many thanks!
My recommendation for a cheap 35mm SLR is a Praktica M42 mount. They are very underrated, plentiful and reliable.
Many companies sell their products thanks to the "legend". It is the same with cameras and analogue films. There are more expensive cameras such as the famous Pentax K1000 or Praktica LTL5B and famous films like the Ilford HP5. But you can also find replacements that are perfectly adequate for an amateur, such as the Pentax MX, Praktica DTL and the film ilford PAN 400.
Both are superb cameras that are criminally overlooked. I bought the Chinon with 50mm f1.7 and 28mm lenses for £13. My Spotmatic F with 50mm, 35mm and 135mm lenses (all in great condition) were effectively free after selling a couple of other things on in the job lot. The Spotmatic is a rare M42 camera with open aperture metering. The Chinon has a mirror lock up (as part of self timer). Both far superior to the over priced K1000 in my opinion.
I thought I was done buying cameras for awhile. After this video I decided I needed to experience a Chinon. It’s a brand that I would normally walk by because I’ve never heard of it before. Based on your review, some internet research about the Chinon company and other glowing reviews I decided to give it a go. I sought out the CM4 because I wanted a total manual camera that didn’t depend on batteries like the Chinon CE’s or my Minolta XDs for the shutter to work. At first I thought the meter lights on the outside of the viewfinder were cheesy. After playing around with the metering I’ve come to think of them as brilliant because I wear glasses and I don’t have to hunt inside the viewfinder border for metering needles or labels on LEDS. It’s big and bold just outside the viewfinder I can’t miss it. It’s really quite clever. 👍👍
In addition to the meter everything else seems backwards to me. The shutter dial, aperture and focus rings all function opposite rotation compared to my Minoltas. Even the batteries are inserted opposite direction as Minoltas. Not a worry for me, these things will keep me on my toes. Maybe force some different creativity.
Yes the body is plastic and it’s light weight, but if you are one to take care of things I don’t see it to be an issue.
Vertical metal focal plane shutter. Sharp easy to focus lens. Pentax k-mount for other lenses. It has the basic foundation of way more expensive cameras. The only feature missing that be needed is a self timer. With a tripod and a cable release I don’t think the added complexity is worth it. If you feel you need this feature look for the CM4s model. “S” stands for self timer
I’m pleased so far and excited to burn some film through this camera
Thanks Roger for the intro to Chinon!
I got myself a rebadged version of this camera the Hanimex 35SL with a Hanimar 55mm f/1.7 in mint condition for $30 U.S. and I love the build quality of this camera. Now I just want to build a system out of this camera and Hanimex lenses with the purpose of building a budget system.
Vivitar 4000s or even Nikon fm10 are good budget choices
That Chinon is a tank. Think I got mine for a similar price off eBay also, never let me down. I believe if you use the modern equivalent battery it's a stop or so out. The wein cells are the correct replacement but have drawbacks.
I agree with your suggestions. Someone wanting to try film would be smart to join an active film forum or group. I have been given and gifted user cameras. The camera is usually the cheapest part of shooting film anyway.
When I got back into film last year, I picked up a Nikon N60 on ebay for US$6. It's done well for me. Spent a little more to get lenses in good shape, but the body being dirt cheap let me splurge a little. Shortly after I found a nice little Minolta point and shoot at a thrift store for $4. It works beautifully too.
Awesome! I got the N90 years ago. £30. Still works
Chasing my youth I restored a Canonet QL17 G111. Then an F-1 because I could not afford one in the 70's. Next an AE-1 because everyone has one. Found my K-2 in the closet. Thanks to you I tried Med Format and a Mamiya 645 joined the bunch. Found a Fujica ST 305 (screw mount) for dirt cheep. Lastly I Found a perfect (looks new) Konica TC with 50 mm 1.7 and 200 mm for $50.00 USD (38 pound ?). I enjoy your channel and have been watching for years.
I use a lot of Ilford film and 510 pyro thanks to you and Martin Henson.
My first camera in the 1970s was a Chinon CX - identical to your CS with the addition of a double exposure switch. A few years ago I put books of my old photography together, and the Chinon f1.7 lens stood comparison with later Nikon, Canon and other standard lenses. The company made bodies and lenses for various department and mail order stores in the US and Europe, as well as Chinon branded equipment for UK Dixons photographic and electronic chain.
Yes I had a CE5 with Dixon's all over the box. It recently died
Love those reflections
Cheers Ben
I get asked this question quite a bit. My answer is not about what’s a good inexpensive camera body, but what’s a great line of affordable lenses. Anyone can find cheap bodies but it’s the glass that really makes the difference. You might be on a budget now, but things may change and if you’ve invested in some good glass, you can then upgrade to a more expensive camera body.
With the Chinon CS, using the self timer will move the mirror up at the start to help reduce the chance of shake.
I advice people to look for less known brands. I have quite some Cosina cameras and with one the transportation costs of €6.95 were more than the cost of the camera plus 50mm f2 lens. Also I tell them it is worth to have a look at the later film cameras of the early 2000's as nobody thinks they are sexy. The plus of these cameras (besides the price) is that you can put widely available modern glass on them and their auto focus and metering is very good. I am quite fond of the Canon 300V as is your mate Ribsy :-)
My NO#1 tip is to buy a 35mm SLR that has been used very recently or even serviced/tested. Usually you can find a Chinon or perhaps a Konica for €40 with a lens.
Those shell photos are absolutely gorgeous and the street shots in the rain are great too.
Regarding cheap cameras and lenses, I've noticed they're getting a little more expensive on eBay as film photography gets more popular.
They are hitting a price. I saw Zeiss Ikon Nettar today on eBay at over £100! I paid £20 for mine a while back. I think the seller see's a trend and puts it up for sale for a similar price. People are not silly though. They just hunt around for a bargain which will eventually come up
if you have Ef lenses, go canon film slr, got 4 of them for 20€, all of them working. no one wants them because the electronics can be fragile and they don't have that classic look. but find a bundle of 4 or 5 of them so you can have spare (or resell them)
probably the same for some nikons as well
I use M42 cameras as well. Most are fantastic, well-built cameras for the price. Most people recommend Praktica cameras for cheap M42, but my Mamiya DSX1000 feels like a better camera than my Praktica LTL3. And the Mamiya DSX and/or DTL cameras are around the same price. Along with average metering, you also get a nifty spot meter in the camera (it's not quite as good as a regular spot meter, but it sometimes is useful). Chinon cameras are fantastic as well!
I also recently shot Kentmere 100 at 200 and developed it accordingly in XTOL. The results were really amazing and I only loose one stop compared to more expensive 400 speed film. Kentmere film is really a great bargain.
Very nice video Roger. It is still posible to find good cameras for very good prices, and very capable film for very affordable prices. Ultrafine Extreme is also a great option for people living in the US, especially in 100' bulk. It is a nice film for a very affordable price. Another tip, keep an eye peeled on Adorama, sometimes they have great discount on film that is about to expire, but is still good for many more months ahead.
I love Ultrafine Extreme film, nice people too.
@@jonlouis2582 that is right.
Good advice regarding the cameras for a novice. Most people would go straight for a Nikon or Olympus and these have nearly tripled in price in the last two or three years. As for film, I'd recommend the Ilford XP2 super. Its not too expensive, its a Chromogenic C41 film which can be developed at your local photolab or even at home if you have the means and the chemicals. It has huge exposure latitude, and it is as sharp as sharp could be at 320 asa and very fine grained.
I totally agree with your assessment of the "name" cameras. Prices for Olympus Trip 35's, for example, have gone up quite a bit since I bought mine a few years back. There's some beautiful examples over on Etsy, but the prices are probably a little too high if you ask me. XP2 is one of my goto films :)
I have a brick of XP2. I just developed one in rodinal. Results were good, but I don't have C41. I won't send away I'll just get some C41 and give it a go. I've never used C41.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss if you use B&W chemistry, then reduce the EI to around 100 ASA. It works very well in HC110 too.
One to look out for is the Chinon CX. It's just like your CS, but with a double exposure switch. Great fun!
I love my Pentax camera's the lenses are great as well
Thanks Roger another great video down to earth advice and great photography!
Cheers Johnny
Was recommended your channel by a friend a few weeks back and am absolutely loving it. Keep up the good work!
Awesome, thank you!
So it's the mirror slap you like? Like @Resgerr I also have a Praktica MTL5B, and boy does it slap... Lovely old East German kit, built like a tank. Also nice and cheap like the Chinon cameras, definitely something to put on a shortlist.
I have quite a collection of SLRs and DSLRs and Mirrorless too but what I found in SLRs is that the golden age were the models made in the late 60s to the mid 70s. When they started to make electronic ones they often fail as they used connectors that corrode or capacitors that leaked and don't function. These later cameras look great but even in the day, they failed often. I had a Minolta XGM that died in 1992. I recently got an XG7 and it is doing the same failure now. However, the purely mechanical SLRs just keep on going. The ones with the Copal metal shutters are just rock solid. However, skip ahead to the early 2000s and the Canon Rebel SLRs are all plastic but they do take great photos too and they are super cheap.
Let's not talk about the plastic silver era ewwww! Mind you, some good ones were about like the Minolta dynax. I had one.
Some Pentax K mount cameras can be quite good value, especially those made by other cheaper brands such as Phenix, Cosina, etc.
Some Cosina derivatives were made into the 2010s with different lens mounts. The Nikon FM/FE -10, Oly' OM-2000, Canon T-60, Voightlander Bessa L/R, as well as the Voightlander 'Bessaflex' M42 cameras. These last two however now command several hundred pounds due to their rarity for what is essential the same internals as can be found in a £15 Cosina CT-1.!!!
If you've heard about a 'good value' camera through hype its probably already overinflated. I would warn to stay away from the K-1000 as it is extremely overpriced. I often see it go for double that of the Pentax MX, Pentax's professional camera at the time that is lighter/smaller, and has more features!!!!
The K mount also allows for the mounting of m42 lenses (although without auto aperture) with an extremely small adapter Pentax sold themselves, and of which modern versions are still made.
I know this video is a year old but I wanted to say 100 ft rolls run from $75 to 160 here in US. Still a good deal on a per roll basis. and prices seem to be holding at that right now through my suppliers. I usually purchase through B&H here in the states as they seem to always have the largest variety in stock more so than others. I have noticed, however, certain brands have been on back order for quite some time, such as the newly released Kentmere in 120 and Bergger Panchro 400 120. I suppose once the production line catches up it won't be an issue for the Kentmere. The Begger I am very curious about and have not seen many youtube videos reviewing it. I'm guessing it might not be in production anymore. I'll have to do some , sigh, research. LOL
I think everyone shoots film has a budget, but the budget is different for everyone. My most expensive film camera has been my Canon 7 which I bought for 150€, and I have a few others none of which costed me more than 100.
I also think camera gear is super overrated and scanner is underrated: a cheap kit like a Canon EOS 500 + 50mm f1.8 scanned with a Plustek will always be better than a Leica M6 + 50mm f2 Summicron (the version doesn't matter) scanned with an Epson V700, if you do it yourself.
I think if you have the money you should invest in good processing (develop + scan or prints) first and then in your preferred gear, you're gonna feel a lot more the jump in quality.
As a confirmed Pentax fan I can never understand how relatively little these cameras fetch these days. In the 60s and 70s these cameras were up there with the best, their lenses are superb and yet they go for begger all.
My first camera when I was at school was a Zenith E with a broken meter had to hand meter it was heavy but lenses were affordable pocket money cheap M42 thread plenty of options then upgraded to cannon AT-1 my friend had a Chinnon CS5 with a power winder on it I thought it was the nuts lol
Pentax P3 cheap and super easy and fun to shoot. About $50 with a lens. I actually bought one new about 1993 still have it.
Classics are great. I want to get a Pentax S3 Terry.
Everyone's on a budget, it's just that some budgets are larger than others. I bought most of my film cameras at estate sales, where they can be had pretty cheap. I actually bought an Agfa box camera for US$1. To keep film costs down, I just watch when the prices drop on Amazon or B&H Photo. My local camera shop also has pretty good deals on film. I haven't gotten a 100' roll yet. Still trying to work out which film I want to get before I commit.
Ricoh cameras... you can find some nice bargains out there on them and they use Pentax lenses.
Another informatIve and cracking vid bud :-) As always.... As long as the shutters work to time (ish) an old camera has many many more years in front of it :-) Then there's a CLA to extend its life for another 200 years!! :-)
Thanks for the BLoader mate.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It was my pleasure bud :-)
Spotmatic is a great camera, especially if you can pick one up with the Takumar 55mm 1.8. I sold mine when the collection got out of hand ;-)
To keep shooting film cheaper try using fomo film
I find the Canon AV-1 and the Pentax ME also quite inexpensive. Bought them for about €20-€30 each. Especially the Pentax I really enjoy using.
I also have a Fujica ST801 with a 55mm 1.8. It has a stopped down light measuring what is quite unusual for M42.
But yeah, although all these cameras are nice to use, I always prefer to bring a medium format camera with me.
The AL-1 can be found for the same price, but it's a far nicer camera than the AV-1. By far my favorite of those alder Canon bodies, and the focus confirmation light is 😊
The st801 is an absolute beauty of a camera. Everything's layed out so nice and in the right place. The meter is awesome for the vintage. Even the shutters and mirror run smooth enough for super slow exposers hand held. And they blend right in with new digital bodys since I think their the design they based the digital off of. And best of all they can be had cheap since they don't say cannon or look like something everyone saw in popular movies. Their Tiny and fit in a pocket too compared to a lot of equal quality cameras. I've used mine a tonne and can't remember a single ruined frame due to the camera acting up. I think their absolutely on par with a ae1 or one of the beloved cameras. But better looking and easy to use, altho somewhat more fragile if you beat on them.
@@jw48335 I never heard of the AL. I recently "discovered" the Canon EF which is a mechanical version of the F1. Saw the relative cheap at a camera "trade show" but I didn't buy it. Next time I will do it I find one.
@@Uwe_Ludolf The AL-1 was the very last of the A series. It is one of two FD bodies I kept around after trying them all. It has an improved laser-matte focus screen, which I find a bit better than the A-1. Like the AV-1, it also has aperture priority auto exposure. The "focus assist" feature is the key though. In the center there was a pair of brackets, and when it's in focus, the light would turn green, and if not, it would provide arrows on which way you need to turn the lens. It also had a nicer grip than any of the other A-series. Sadly it lacks an AE lock:/ If you're looking at one, check the battery door, as that is broken most of the time - the first three I looked at were busted. Despite the features, the AL-1 was positioned as an "intro" model, with Canon viewing the focus assist option as attractive to new shooters. In this day and age, I find that hilarious. Why would anyone consider faster focus tools to be only for newbies? Cheers:)
Another great Video Roger :)
Glad you enjoyed it
Damn! I've been thinking about buying a Spotmatic for ages, but have managed to resist the temptation - until now...
When I bulk load I make several 18 exposure rolls and several 9 exposure rolls. Rarely make any over 20.
I usually go about 25 clicks.
Great video..i have Chinon CM-3 and SLR model...solid but do u have any idea what batteries do both CM-3 and SLR take? Want to ck the light meters...thx
Here is some info I found camera-wiki.org/wiki/Chinon_CE-3_Memotron
I just got a F5 and I do believe I found the ONE.
Great camera! Don't drop it on anyone's foot!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss true that haha
Im going to buy this week a Minolta dynax 4. Dont know why, minolta its not really popular. 700si, dynax 4, dynax 5, 500si,.lot of them under 20£. Maybye because not, old-fashion look 🤔
Good cameras. I used to have a dynax mid 2000s.
Interesante vídeo.
One month I shoot film and the next I develop it all, and where ever the cost is lowest I pick up bricks of film.
What ever happened to that old newspaper photographer, you visited him once I think, I can' recall his name, nice guy, is he still around? Best wishes, nice video.
Yeah Peter Elgar. Very active on RUclips
Can you recommend a decent wide m42 lens? I’d like one for video on my Panasonic.
I use the Hanimex 28mm lens. It's cheap but results are not bad at smaller apertures.
I’ve thought of bulk loading, but how are you attaching the film to the spindle of the cassette ? Thanks Ed
It's easier done than said. If you buy the screw-top plastic cassettes (about 2 quid each from places such as Silverprint), you simply use a little white painters tape. You can use pre-used cassettes though - what you want is a cassette that has about a quarter of an inch of film sticking out of the felt light traps and just use a little double-sided tape to attack the new length of film (in the dark, obviously). You can get pre-used cassettes from eBay or your local film processing lab, just make sure there is a bit of old film sticking out. You CAN open and re-use old film cassettes but I find that's always been more trouble than it's worth and never 100% trustworthy versus light leaks etc. Several videos of how to do it on here!
@@lloydgarland4667 Thanks Lloyd, that’s good to know. I was thinking about the old cassettes that were easy to take apart
@@edwardcrosby5034 If by "old" you mean the 1980's Ilford type of cassette, then yes, those are reliable. Not easy to find these days though, I hate to think of how many I just threw away back in the day!
I rewind my cassettes back just enough so the leader is sticking out and then once I loaded it onto the reel I cut the film from the cassette (all in the dark) and save a lip of film sticking out the cassette and use again, even if it's a brand new film from the shop. Just store them carefully I've had disasters with grit in the velvet and nice scratches along the film! I just use some masking tape to attach the new film to the old film cassette. takes practice but it's easy once you get the hang of it. Or as Lloyd said, but the black cassettes.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Great advice, thanks
I've been buying some cameras on Goodwill for extremely cheap for the last few months. eBay is one of the worst places to buy them on. The film bubble will soon burst and the glut of overpriced cameras will disappear
When the hipsters all have kids think of all those cheap Leica's that will be coming on to the market 😉
I'll have to agree with you on the wife disappearing in the food store.
Ha ha
Bulk film. You still need to be careful, it's not always the cheapest option! On one well known website at the moment you can buy a 100ft roll of Kodak Tri-X for £220, that's 2 quid a roll more expensive than buying it pre-rolled in a plastic tub and pretty yellow box for £10.50, so beware! With bulk film you should only pay for the film and one lot of packaging - with pre-rolled you pay for the plastic tub and metal case every time. I noticed that the film you used there has no edge markings. My own experience with Fomapan is the same, no edge markings - any idea why?
From what I've seen bulk film is no bargain here in the US either. I assume if you have a ton of cassettes already and your necessary gear to load it, it's more convenient. I'll stick to $5 a roll for Foma or a bit extra for T-Max. I got it less than $5 a roll at Adorama on sale last month.
@@danem2215 You can save up all your used cassettes and film tubs for using with bulk film, just remember to leave quarter of an inch or so of film hanging out the cassette so you can attach the new film to it ;) Foma in bulk is a real bargain, about half the cost of pre-rolled stock. Ilford not so good but you do save about 15 - 20% and Kodak can actually cost you more depending on where you get it.
Get on this price Lloyd www.ag-photolab.co.uk/product/kodak-tri-x-400-35mm-100ft-30-5m/
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Cheers! I may just do that :)
Got a Pentax SV with a lens for 80 quid on ebay, bargain, briliant camera
FYI Pigeon = Flying Rat!
Bloody squirrels 😆
rog if you are going to shoot pigeons use a gun
The cows would get me