Pure genius... But why not use the Hohem AI tracking sensor aparatus so the camera will self correct its position based on the subject tracking as you walk forward.... Much easier right?
Thanks!! I've not tried the Hohem thingy so can't really comment, but it would essentially give the same result as using the Raveneye or Image Transmission from DJI and that way you're all within one ecosystem
This is awesome, thank you David for putting it together! Smallrig RS Power Base: $100 Smallrig 15mm rods: $14 V-lock power plate: $70 Andycine V-lock battery: $130 Zitay D-tap splitter: $17 Smallrig 15mm railblock: $15 Smallrig Dual Rosette 15mm: $40 Smallrig Rosette NATO handlebar: $150 iFootage Spidercrabs: $140 Smallrig NATO handle: $65 Niceyrig Shoulder pad: $40 Andycine C7 monitor: $150 Hollyland transmitter: $500 Dual NPF to D-tap adaptor: $65 Tilta Advanced RS remote handle: $150 Tilta Rosette to NATO: $15 15mm to NATO clamp: $35 Total: $1700 Gimbal and camera cost not included. Most of this stuff can be purchased used, cutting the cost even lower. So, for around $1500 (or lower) you get a very nice rig!
It's a great rig, but your cost breakdown and the additional cost of gimbal, camera, and lenses, makes me wonder if something like a DJI Ronin 4D wouldn't come at a matching competitive price!
It's several pieces together. You basically need a rail block (like I used in the first point of contact) which comes up at a 45⁰ ish angle. Then you need a short 15mm rod. And finally you need a 15mm rod to nato rail clamp so you can connect that short rod to the nato rail on the gimbal
Good Gawd, I need to build this ASAP. One last note you mentioned to be more efficient in your framing and focus. With the recent release of DJI Lidar Pro system. The add-on would definitely solve those issues. Wow now I know how those Spider Crab arms work. I totally will cop a few of those. Thank you for sharing this fun and amazing build!
I discovered you by accident, and you made me want to try building it, but I'm new to it. I'll try to build it step by step hoping to find all the smaller parts, even if it's difficult to find them the same... what if I buy a part that I don't need? Not all the smallest parts for fixing the DJI are the same. I follow you from Italy.
Thanks for sharing your build. The dual NPF battery adapter is a cool part. Some monitors have a horizontal flip option that may help when you use the gimbal behind you. I’m thinking it would mimic the left/right movement easier than trying to do so in your head.
Iv made a little adjustment , iv attached a sturdy nato to arri pin monitor mount to the side instad, screwed a cheese plate on the arri pin part , folded it under the gimbal , added a 2 Rod plate to the cheese plate and attached the base 2 rod plate with the magic arm that you use to that , so in my setup instad of one , 2 rod is holding the setup
SO GOOD! Thanks mate!!!!!! If I use the same dtap splitter, can I use it to power accessories that require less voltage like 5v or 9v with unregulated cables without having to worry about frying gear or will I need to use cables with a power regulator on them to make sure the splitter doesn’t over power said Gear? I’ve never been able to find a dtap splitter that has power delivery built in to each output jack but that would make life so much easier cause cables with regulator boxes on them are so annoying.
Try this trick: if you want the reverse mode to be easier to control, just mount the right handle up side down, and you can control left and right reversed and that becomes more natural.
Great build and great video explaining it - thank you! One question... when you were walking with the gimbal, how did you avoid vertical movement/vibration? I have a similar rig with the RS2, but even with a "ninja walk" the gimbal "bumps" vertically with each step. Your walking looks very smooth! :)
I think I have all the parts to build this rig. I might give it a shot. You know if you had a monitor that could do a mirror mode where it flips the image horizontally, that would make it much easier to operate in reverse mode. I don't know of any monitors that do this, though. I can't imagine that it would be hard for a company to program this into one.
this is amazing, i'm just wondering what to use as a second pt of contact, since you have that rod connector you said came w another gimbal (iirc).. the only thing i really had to buy for this was the power adapter for the RS3 Pro, and I've got it on there, but it doesn't feel sturdy enough w just the one spider crab, ofc.. do you think i could use sth like this: CAMVATE 15mm Rod Clamp for DLSR Camera Rig Cage Baseplate (Black) - 1422 (via amazon) to connect two 15mm rods, like you have? really appreciate the vid, regardless, it's the best one of all the Creator rigs imo... if you can answer that Q for me i'd be more than happy to shoot you $20 or sth for your trouble... thx, take care
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated! Yes I should have clarified the thing I use for the second point of contact is just a 15mm rod clamp. It just happens to be a super lightweight one that clamps down like crazy. But any 15mm rod clamp with do as long as it can clamp down hard enough 🤘
It's easy, as easy as riding a backwards brain bicycle 🤯Or reversing your car with a trailer. Anyway, the video is awesome 🔥 Was it really 30 minutes? No way..
David, can't you just reverse the image on the monitor (horizontally)? Then, reverse the clip in post? Because all that's really important is to frame the subject proportionally like you want it - so the subject's appearance is only important positionally because exposure is already worked out? :)
This is interesting for if you're spending hours filming fairly statically. But forr walking shots surely a normal gimbal setup would help to smooth out the up and down movement
I have an RS3 pro. I keep balancing it but every time I try to run it on the shoulder rig it fails on me immediately. I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong
Have you balanced the pan axis correctly? That's the one most people trip up on because it can mostly handle an incorrect balance if you are holding the gimbal vertically, but the second you go briefcase mode/shoulder mount mode, it craps out
That's the huge problem with SmallRig. They discontinue things so fast, it makes it almost impossible to rig up your system or replace parts. And they won't reissue any parts, no matter how much a demand there is for them. One of the reasons I don't like and or buy SmallRig anymore.
@@dodmedia that's how we normally do pouring/prouduct table top shots when the monitor is behind the camera, so it just feel like you are looking in a mirror.
Certainly an interesting build, but it seems like it's a solution looking for a problem. Why not just put the gimbal on a stedicam or easyrig? I guess once you have all the rigging laying around, you just get those "what if" ideas. And can actually realize them.
It's a fair point, but I think you're missing the point of the rig. Steadicam would usually sit your camera around chest height. Easyrig requires a ring around the gimbal ideally for the best performance. And both steadicam and easyrig cost a lot of money compared to a few accessories to make the gimbal shoulder mountable. But for me the main purpose is really to be able to have the gimbal at eye-line height, while also being able to shoot backwards while monitoring forwards. Can't do their with steadicam or easyrig.
Jesus I didn't even think of that! I've associated the LiDAR Rangefinder with manual lenses so much I forgot about the tracking part! Good shout I'll try that!
I see these shoulder-gimbal builds and fail to see the benefit for a solo operator. First and foremost they look they look extremely front heavy and more physically demanding than a well balanced standard shoulder rig. Plus you’ve detached camera pan and tilt from the operator’s body, where shoulders arms and torso are much more finely tuned for camera movement when compared to a gimbal joystick. What am I missing. It just looks like complexity for complexity’s sake.
Stabilization. It's as simple as that. But you aren't sacrificing tilt or pan as you can lock the gimbal off, giving you access to rigid shoulder movement as well. Not only that, you can actively control the gimbal itself, giving you more flexibiltiy in where it's facing. For example, if you need to track someone, you can simply rotate the gimbal head and still walk forwards. Like any rig, it's simply about how you choose to utilise it and creating new ways of getting certain shots. And as far as stabilization goes for bulkier rigs, this is far easier to run and gun than a full shoulder and arm set up, not to mention overall easier to balance.
@@georgestuart7314 For all practical purposes, the rig only provides a bit of roll stability (aka keeps the horizon level), but that's not hard to do with a shoulder rig. This setup is probably worse at translating z-axis bobbing into the camera than a gimbal ring you walk by hand. Beyond that, yes you can have a camera swivel in front of your nose if that's helpful. Except, how often is that really an issue when shooting from the shoulder? With proper technique and shot planning it's very rare. And if you want true on-foot camera stabilization, you still need a spring arm or ready-rig arrangement. That's the only way (apart from a dolly) to keep the camera steady relative to the ground.
@@waveland "For all practical purposes, the rig only provides a bit of roll stability (aka keeps the horizon level), but that's not hard to do with a shoulder rig." That's not true. If you've used the rig yourself, you would know that it does far more than just roll stabilisation. It is a big leap beyond whatever technique you'd use with a standard shoulder rig and allows you to adjust positioning on the fly without worrying about unwanted jitters. It does give you some vertical stabilisation depending on how you're holding it, but that's not really its purpose in the first place. "This setup is probably worse at translating z-axis bobbing into the camera than a gimbal ring you walk by hand. Beyond that, yes you can have a camera swivel in front of your nose if that's helpful." A normal shoulder mount with technique is also worse. Does that mean you scrap that also? Remember that a gimbal ring can become very taxing on the arms and the operator's overall fatigue over a long duration, so it's better for short duration shoots. You're coming at it from the mindset that this rig is trying to do everything, but it isn't. No rig is. It's about what you need it for. Portable stability that can shift between multiple setups on the fly. "Except, how often is that really an issue when shooting from the shoulder? With proper technique and shot planning it's very rare." That's entirely dependant on the shoot, the budget and what the DP thinks works for certain scenarios. Rarity is besides the point if it functions for the intended purpose. Especially when it's a new DIY job. It might be rare at the moment and that's fine, but the option is there to give someone more versatility and portability. Like any new system, in time people find more ways it can be used until it becomes more widely adopted. "And if you want true on-foot camera stabilization, you still need a spring arm or ready-rig arrangement. That's the only way (apart from a dolly) to keep the camera steady relative to the ground." But that's the thing, this isn't about wanting true on-foot camera stabilization. This is quite literally a quick and portable way to shift between modes of stabilization and movement without succuming to long setup times in between. It's the core reason Gareth Edwards and his team developed it in the first place, and he has a reputation for being a practical-minded filmmaker. It has nothing to do with looks or to build something for the sake of it. It's about thinking outside the box to achieve certain things under certain constraints, whether it be budget, time, operability, etc. That whole process is at the heart of filmmaking.
@@georgestuart7314 It finally dawned on me what drove them to this gimbal rig, the 2.75 : 1 ratio. With a frame that wide, even tiny roll jostles would translate into huge movements on the periphery of the frame. Now it makes sense. That’s beyond human management even for a very skilled operator. If I ever film ultra wide like that, this is the rig. Nevertheless, for more typical ratios, I would approach the filming in a different way.
What I fail to understand is why they didn't just mount the fx3 on a traditional shoulder rig but instead opted for the ronin? Wouldn't the gimbal kill the organic 'handheld' vibe too much? Isn't a shoulder rig enough to get rid of micro jitters and the like?
Ahhh I should hate you for this video cause it's making me wanna buy so much stuff! But I love this video! I just might have to pull the trigger, I have most of these parts so might as well go for it. Great Channel! SUBBED!
![CHILE vs. BRASIL [1-2] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5ObJt_71AYc/mqdefault.jpg)
That reverse mode is a mind f**k! But once I get the hang of it, it'll be fantastic for long choreographed sequences! 🤘🤘
Pure genius... But why not use the Hohem AI tracking sensor aparatus so the camera will self correct its position based on the subject tracking as you walk forward.... Much easier right?
Thanks!! I've not tried the Hohem thingy so can't really comment, but it would essentially give the same result as using the Raveneye or Image Transmission from DJI and that way you're all within one ecosystem
Would mirroring (flipping horizontally) the image on the monitor help when reverse tracking?
This is awesome, thank you David for putting it together!
Smallrig RS Power Base: $100
Smallrig 15mm rods: $14
V-lock power plate: $70
Andycine V-lock battery: $130
Zitay D-tap splitter: $17
Smallrig 15mm railblock: $15
Smallrig Dual Rosette 15mm: $40
Smallrig Rosette NATO handlebar: $150
iFootage Spidercrabs: $140
Smallrig NATO handle: $65
Niceyrig Shoulder pad: $40
Andycine C7 monitor: $150
Hollyland transmitter: $500
Dual NPF to D-tap adaptor: $65
Tilta Advanced RS remote handle: $150
Tilta Rosette to NATO: $15
15mm to NATO clamp: $35
Total: $1700
Gimbal and camera cost not included. Most of this stuff can be purchased used, cutting the cost even lower. So, for around $1500 (or lower) you get a very nice rig!
It's a great rig, but your cost breakdown and the additional cost of gimbal, camera, and lenses, makes me wonder if something like a DJI Ronin 4D wouldn't come at a matching competitive price!
@@dodmedia It probably would and in most cases be a better option, but then you loose the flexibility of camera or any other part upgrades.
Great video. By the way you sound just like Josh O'Connor who played prince charles in the crown.
LOL he's English dude..
The second point of contact is genius!! Great video!!
Thanks! Yeah it makes a huge difference!
WHAT IS THAT PIECE CALLED??? @@dodmedia
It's several pieces together. You basically need a rail block (like I used in the first point of contact) which comes up at a 45⁰ ish angle. Then you need a short 15mm rod. And finally you need a 15mm rod to nato rail clamp so you can connect that short rod to the nato rail on the gimbal
Highly recommend the tilta adjustable rosette mounts. They make life so much easier
Thanks for the walkthrough David! I’m in the process of building my shoulder right now.
Send over a pic of your build on Instagram!
You create what I tried !! Great idea mate!! I thing that this is the future of shoulder rigs
Good Gawd, I need to build this ASAP. One last note you mentioned to be more efficient in your framing and focus. With the recent release of DJI Lidar Pro system. The add-on would definitely solve those issues. Wow now I know how those Spider Crab arms work. I totally will cop a few of those.
Thank you for sharing this fun and amazing build!
long walk but totally worth it. This is super helpful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I discovered you by accident, and you made me want to try building it, but I'm new to it. I'll try to build it step by step hoping to find all the smaller parts, even if it's difficult to find them the same... what if I buy a part that I don't need? Not all the smallest parts for fixing the DJI are the same. I follow you from Italy.
Bloody brilliant!! I am building my rig NOW!
May I suggest that the term that you are looking for is "lead", as in that you are leading the subject. Interesting rig.
Thanks for sharing your build. The dual NPF battery adapter is a cool part.
Some monitors have a horizontal flip option that may help when you use the gimbal behind you. I’m thinking it would mimic the left/right movement easier than trying to do so in your head.
Same same same. I had no idea that battery device existed. Amazing!
Yeah I'll try the H flip on the C7 monitor, see if that makes operation easier!
Iv made a little adjustment , iv attached a sturdy nato to arri pin monitor mount to the side instad, screwed a cheese plate on the arri pin part , folded it under the gimbal , added a 2 Rod plate to the cheese plate and attached the base 2 rod plate with the magic arm that you use to that , so in my setup instad of one , 2 rod is holding the setup
SO GOOD! Thanks mate!!!!!!
If I use the same dtap splitter, can I use it to power accessories that require less voltage like 5v or 9v with unregulated cables without having to worry about frying gear or will I need to use cables with a power regulator on them to make sure the splitter doesn’t over power said Gear? I’ve never been able to find a dtap splitter that has power delivery built in to each output jack but that would make life so much easier cause cables with regulator boxes on them are so annoying.
Thanks very well explained so much info shared
Glad you liked it!
did you tey flipping the image in the monitor in teh horizontal line? then it will be easier to follow when you film behind
crazy dope
Try this trick: if you want the reverse mode to be easier to control, just mount the right handle up side down, and you can control left and right reversed and that becomes more natural.
Great build and great video explaining it - thank you! One question... when you were walking with the gimbal, how did you avoid vertical movement/vibration? I have a similar rig with the RS2, but even with a "ninja walk" the gimbal "bumps" vertically with each step. Your walking looks very smooth! :)
I didn't really notice any vertical movement when shooting. Ninja'd my way along and it was as smooth as it could be with vertical motion. 🤷♂️
I think I have all the parts to build this rig. I might give it a shot. You know if you had a monitor that could do a mirror mode where it flips the image horizontally, that would make it much easier to operate in reverse mode. I don't know of any monitors that do this, though. I can't imagine that it would be hard for a company to program this into one.
Sweeeet! Yeah the Andycine C7 indeed has a horizontal flip mode! I'll give it a go!
Most monitors have customizable function buttons that would HFlip the image at the touch of a button. I'm pretty sure my PortKeys monitor would do it.
this is amazing, i'm just wondering what to use as a second pt of contact, since you have that rod connector you said came w another gimbal (iirc).. the only thing i really had to buy for this was the power adapter for the RS3 Pro, and I've got it on there, but it doesn't feel sturdy enough w just the one spider crab, ofc.. do you think i could use sth like this: CAMVATE 15mm Rod Clamp for DLSR Camera Rig Cage Baseplate (Black) - 1422 (via amazon) to connect two 15mm rods, like you have? really appreciate the vid, regardless, it's the best one of all the Creator rigs imo... if you can answer that Q for me i'd be more than happy to shoot you $20 or sth for your trouble...
thx, take care
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated! Yes I should have clarified the thing I use for the second point of contact is just a 15mm rod clamp. It just happens to be a super lightweight one that clamps down like crazy. But any 15mm rod clamp with do as long as it can clamp down hard enough 🤘
It's easy, as easy as riding a backwards brain bicycle 🤯Or reversing your car with a trailer. Anyway, the video is awesome 🔥 Was it really 30 minutes? No way..
Omg reversing with a trailer is EXACTLY what it's like!!
I think this shows the value of a Ronin 4D. Everything is integrated, no wires dangling.
Agreed, provided you're ok with the limited options for lenses on the 4D and the 4D camera itself.
Hi,your audio is very very good,is it the mics or the post production.
Yes 🥲
David, can't you just reverse the image on the monitor (horizontally)? Then, reverse the clip in post? Because all that's really important is to frame the subject proportionally like you want it - so the subject's appearance is only important positionally because exposure is already worked out? :)
Yep I'm going to give flipping the monitor feed a go and see how it feels!
How do you calibrate it? My gimbal rig gives an error in this horizontal mode
Def tracking w newest fw for gh6 w/o raven eye or focus motor so motor can be appied to vnd and zoom im hoping. 🎉Thank You
That would be cool!
This is interesting for if you're spending hours filming fairly statically. But forr walking shots surely a normal gimbal setup would help to smooth out the up and down movement
15:50 what's that battery thingy that can power and rig both the monitor and the transmitter together? What's the name? I want to buy one.
It's linked in the description. Zitay dual NP-F 🤘
Nice. Thanks a lot!@@dodmedia
How does the control handle connect with the main gimbal unit?
it's got a bluetooth module that goes on one of the gimbal's hot nato rails.
This video should’ve been 1/3 as long as as it is
I think I'll make the next one twice as long.
I have an RS3 pro. I keep balancing it but every time I try to run it on the shoulder rig it fails on me immediately. I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong
Have you balanced the pan axis correctly? That's the one most people trip up on because it can mostly handle an incorrect balance if you are holding the gimbal vertically, but the second you go briefcase mode/shoulder mount mode, it craps out
That's the huge problem with SmallRig. They discontinue things so fast, it makes it almost impossible to rig up your system or replace parts. And they won't reissue any parts, no matter how much a demand there is for them. One of the reasons I don't like and or buy SmallRig anymore.
have you tried to mirror/flip the monitor view?
Not yet, but that's a great idea! I'll make a follow up video where I do that, and also try the Raveneye tracking
@@dodmedia that's how we normally do pouring/prouduct table top shots when the monitor is behind the camera, so it just feel like you are looking in a mirror.
Certainly an interesting build, but it seems like it's a solution looking for a problem. Why not just put the gimbal on a stedicam or easyrig? I guess once you have all the rigging laying around, you just get those "what if" ideas. And can actually realize them.
It's a fair point, but I think you're missing the point of the rig. Steadicam would usually sit your camera around chest height. Easyrig requires a ring around the gimbal ideally for the best performance. And both steadicam and easyrig cost a lot of money compared to a few accessories to make the gimbal shoulder mountable. But for me the main purpose is really to be able to have the gimbal at eye-line height, while also being able to shoot backwards while monitoring forwards. Can't do their with steadicam or easyrig.
Why not try the DJI LiDAR to tracking?
Jesus I didn't even think of that! I've associated the LiDAR Rangefinder with manual lenses so much I forgot about the tracking part! Good shout I'll try that!
I see these shoulder-gimbal builds and fail to see the benefit for a solo operator. First and foremost they look they look extremely front heavy and more physically demanding than a well balanced standard shoulder rig. Plus you’ve detached camera pan and tilt from the operator’s body, where shoulders arms and torso are much more finely tuned for camera movement when compared to a gimbal joystick. What am I missing. It just looks like complexity for complexity’s sake.
Stabilization. It's as simple as that. But you aren't sacrificing tilt or pan as you can lock the gimbal off, giving you access to rigid shoulder movement as well. Not only that, you can actively control the gimbal itself, giving you more flexibiltiy in where it's facing. For example, if you need to track someone, you can simply rotate the gimbal head and still walk forwards.
Like any rig, it's simply about how you choose to utilise it and creating new ways of getting certain shots. And as far as stabilization goes for bulkier rigs, this is far easier to run and gun than a full shoulder and arm set up, not to mention overall easier to balance.
@@georgestuart7314 For all practical purposes, the rig only provides a bit of roll stability (aka keeps the horizon level), but that's not hard to do with a shoulder rig. This setup is probably worse at translating z-axis bobbing into the camera than a gimbal ring you walk by hand. Beyond that, yes you can have a camera swivel in front of your nose if that's helpful. Except, how often is that really an issue when shooting from the shoulder? With proper technique and shot planning it's very rare. And if you want true on-foot camera stabilization, you still need a spring arm or ready-rig arrangement. That's the only way (apart from a dolly) to keep the camera steady relative to the ground.
@@waveland "For all practical purposes, the rig only provides a bit of roll stability (aka keeps the horizon level), but that's not hard to do with a shoulder rig."
That's not true. If you've used the rig yourself, you would know that it does far more than just roll stabilisation. It is a big leap beyond whatever technique you'd use with a standard shoulder rig and allows you to adjust positioning on the fly without worrying about unwanted jitters. It does give you some vertical stabilisation depending on how you're holding it, but that's not really its purpose in the first place.
"This setup is probably worse at translating z-axis bobbing into the camera than a gimbal ring you walk by hand. Beyond that, yes you can have a camera swivel in front of your nose if that's helpful."
A normal shoulder mount with technique is also worse. Does that mean you scrap that also? Remember that a gimbal ring can become very taxing on the arms and the operator's overall fatigue over a long duration, so it's better for short duration shoots. You're coming at it from the mindset that this rig is trying to do everything, but it isn't. No rig is. It's about what you need it for. Portable stability that can shift between multiple setups on the fly.
"Except, how often is that really an issue when shooting from the shoulder? With proper technique and shot planning it's very rare."
That's entirely dependant on the shoot, the budget and what the DP thinks works for certain scenarios. Rarity is besides the point if it functions for the intended purpose. Especially when it's a new DIY job. It might be rare at the moment and that's fine, but the option is there to give someone more versatility and portability. Like any new system, in time people find more ways it can be used until it becomes more widely adopted.
"And if you want true on-foot camera stabilization, you still need a spring arm or ready-rig arrangement. That's the only way (apart from a dolly) to keep the camera steady relative to the ground."
But that's the thing, this isn't about wanting true on-foot camera stabilization. This is quite literally a quick and portable way to shift between modes of stabilization and movement without succuming to long setup times in between. It's the core reason Gareth Edwards and his team developed it in the first place, and he has a reputation for being a practical-minded filmmaker. It has nothing to do with looks or to build something for the sake of it. It's about thinking outside the box to achieve certain things under certain constraints, whether it be budget, time, operability, etc. That whole process is at the heart of filmmaking.
@@georgestuart7314 It finally dawned on me what drove them to this gimbal rig, the 2.75 : 1 ratio. With a frame that wide, even tiny roll jostles would translate into huge movements on the periphery of the frame. Now it makes sense. That’s beyond human management even for a very skilled operator. If I ever film ultra wide like that, this is the rig. Nevertheless, for more typical ratios, I would approach the filming in a different way.
Can I just say this is the most informative and polite exchange I've ever seen on any of my videos. 🙏🤘
What I fail to understand is why they didn't just mount the fx3 on a traditional shoulder rig but instead opted for the ronin? Wouldn't the gimbal kill the organic 'handheld' vibe too much? Isn't a shoulder rig enough to get rid of micro jitters and the like?
✌....
Nice but looks very heavy.
It is! But then again it's lighter than a cinema camera with a cinema lens on a shoulder rig so...
@@dodmedia what is the weight of a cinema camera shoulder rig vs the creator? My own R7 rig seems heavy at about 10 pound/5 kilo
Same voice as Henry Cavil
I wish!
Ahhh I should hate you for this video cause it's making me wanna buy so much stuff! But I love this video! I just might have to pull the trigger, I have most of these parts so might as well go for it. Great Channel! SUBBED!
LOL if you've got most of the parts.. you've GOT to make it! 🤪