With the 3-4 release springs installed, it pushes the backing plate away to help the clutch pack release. As you spoke of various reasons why not to, or some say never, I have several lines of thought on this subject. First, when in first or second gear, this clutch is not applied. It is during 3rd or 4th. Down shifts from 3rd to second could burn the 3-4 pack, if not released. Yes, builds of hi-perf usually get a larger “Boost” valve, increasing line pressure for the 3-4 apply. Then, whether centrifugal forces due to high RPM, or viscous suction between the steel and friction plates, either one will create a situation where “Two” holding devices are applied at the same time causes premature failure, wear and heat. Guides sold as “ATSG” even recommend these return springs are not needed. If this is true, why does GM and many well known aftermarket companies manufacture steel plate with 5 elongated holes, called “Turbulators”? Yep, these angled slots help break the vacuum or viscous suction holding these plates together. So, different method but same results. Either way, they are doing something extra to overcome a way to allow the 3-4 to separate and release easier and quicker. I am with you as a simple observation based upon “Best Practices” to help or eliminate a known issue, regardless of how they do it. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
i heard the springs are there because the band applies faster then the clutch pack releases. if i take them out i definitely put them back in. i think the engineer that designed it knows more about it then i do.
Especially if you're using a wideband, also your gonna wanna mod that low reverse by getting rid of that wave plate if your doing manual shifting. That low reverse is applied in manual low and that band is gonna come on faster than that low reverse can disengage.
Hey, not to be a flip ass, but great video of your Hand ! I know this is older video but maybe reposition ur camera next time. You do give good info. I'm rebuilding my 4l60E, doing the same parts ur on in video. Using a Z-pack also. Thanks it's a good video
I BUILT THIS UNIT ALMOST 2 YEARS AGO WITH NO PROBLEMS TO REPORT THE BEARINGS SEEM TO HOLD UP WELL AS FAR AS THE CLEARANCE I USE TO CHECK DRY THEN SOAK THE CLUTCHS AND A OLD BUILDER TOLD ME I WAS WASTING MY TIME WHEN YOU USE FEELER GAUGES THERE WAS NO DIFFERENCE I HAD TO TRY IT BEFORE I BELIEVED HIM BUT HE WAS RIGHT HOW EVER IF YOU USE A DAIL INDICATOR TO CHECK THE CLEARANCE YOU WILL NEED TO DO IT DRY
What's that other band or step, about a half inch tall almost a couple inches up from the top Teflon sealing ring, perhaps .030-.050" smaller diameter than the surrounding shaft diameter? Anybody?
You are great at explaining WHY things need to be a certain way. thats real important, thanks man.
PREACH pilgrim PREACH👍🏻
This video should be mandatory in all ASE classes.🇺🇸👍🏻🏁
With the 3-4 release springs installed, it pushes the backing plate away to help the clutch pack release. As you spoke of various reasons why not to, or some say never, I have several lines of thought on this subject. First, when in first or second gear, this clutch is not applied. It is during 3rd or 4th. Down shifts from 3rd to second could burn the 3-4 pack, if not released. Yes, builds of hi-perf usually get a larger “Boost” valve, increasing line pressure for the 3-4 apply. Then, whether centrifugal forces due to high RPM, or viscous suction between the steel and friction plates, either one will create a situation where “Two” holding devices are applied at the same time causes premature failure, wear and heat.
Guides sold as “ATSG” even recommend these return springs are not needed. If this is true, why does GM and many well known aftermarket companies manufacture steel plate with 5 elongated holes, called “Turbulators”? Yep, these angled slots help break the vacuum or viscous suction holding these plates together. So, different method but same results.
Either way, they are doing something extra to overcome a way to allow the 3-4 to separate and release easier and quicker. I am with you as a simple observation based upon “Best Practices” to help or eliminate a known issue, regardless of how they do it.
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
I agree, I th
i heard the springs are there because the band applies faster then the clutch pack releases. if i take them out i definitely put them back in. i think the engineer that designed it knows more about it then i do.
Especially if you're using a wideband, also your gonna wanna mod that low reverse by getting rid of that wave plate if your doing manual shifting. That low reverse is applied in manual low and that band is gonna come on faster than that low reverse can disengage.
Thank you for a great video
Hey, not to be a flip ass, but great video of your Hand ! I know this is older video but maybe reposition ur camera next time. You do give good info. I'm rebuilding my 4l60E, doing the same parts ur on in video. Using a Z-pack also. Thanks it's a good video
where did you get those resizing and stretcher tools?
good share by the way!
larry
Koyo bearings? Good luck. .020 worth of oil between all clutches. Set
Clearances beforehand.
I BUILT THIS UNIT ALMOST 2 YEARS AGO WITH NO PROBLEMS TO REPORT THE BEARINGS SEEM TO HOLD UP WELL AS FAR AS THE CLEARANCE I USE TO CHECK DRY THEN SOAK THE CLUTCHS AND A OLD BUILDER TOLD ME I WAS WASTING MY TIME WHEN YOU USE FEELER GAUGES THERE WAS NO DIFFERENCE I HAD TO TRY IT BEFORE I BELIEVED HIM BUT HE WAS RIGHT HOW EVER IF YOU USE A DAIL INDICATOR TO CHECK THE CLEARANCE YOU WILL NEED TO DO IT DRY
What's that other band or step, about a half inch tall almost a couple inches up from the top Teflon sealing ring, perhaps .030-.050" smaller diameter than the surrounding shaft diameter? Anybody?
Tanks boos man
God my froom in iraq ilike in vdyo