Omada is the best thing since sliced bread! There are so many different types of access points available and many management options. If someone wants or needs to use more than one access point, this is the way to go. Its cheaper than Ubiquiti and looks to be just as capable. It is so easy to expand and scale the system as the need arises.
I was struggling to come up with a solution for a quality WIFI solution for my property. Good fortune led me to your channel. I have gain knowledge and can now move forward solving my WIFI challenge. Much Thanks and Best Cheers!~! PS: now a subscriber and will be reviewing your past video offerings to improve my knowledge (especially on the TP Link side of things).
I am new to networking, but if you just wire your EAP610 directly to your ISP modem aren't you running the risk without a firewall or any vlan options. This is the only video that I have seen that suggests the router as an optional item and the hardware controller as the required option. Seems like a better solution would be to us an ER605 as router and then setup the EAP610 in standalone mode. From what I have seen, the hardware controller is really only needed for a mesh setup with multiple AP. Thanks for all the informational videos.
Good question. A standard router does what is called NAT (Network Address Translation). This "converts" public IP addresses to private ones and private to public ones. By default inbound traffic from the internet (WAN) can't travel to the private address range (LAN) without a port forwarding rule in place. As a result pretty much out of the box a router will already basically protect your network, so it is OK to plug an access point directly in to the router (not the internet connection, that would be unsave) What we get with firewalling is the ability to inspect the traffic and see what it is doing and thefore protect against applications etc that may have an adverse effect on your devices. The hardware controller is really just needed if you have multiple devices or want ongoing management and monitoring so the software install on a computer for many will be a good starting point.
You can create a mesh without the controllers just using the omada app. That's what I have. The phone doesn't need to be there and it works flawlessly for me. You need to update the firmware in my experience before it works. No extra cost
I appreciate the router section very much. The vast majority of videos on these products focus on the whole solution and all the management options. I'm a pc enthusiast and a gamer. Networking was never really my thing. I recently got 2 gigabit internet coming into the house and needed a router that could handle multi-gig in and out to other devices/a switch. Turns out that buying the cheapest router with that option means they seriously skimped on the wifi strength. I think I'll be keeping my current router and just buying a controller and a poe switch, and just blanketing my place in overkill levels of wifi.
Turn your router into an access point. Then buy the ER605 as your router... if you have bought a decent router there should be a setting to turn it into a wifi access point. That's what I did to my 250 dollar Netgear mesh router.
@@daveuerk4030 the main desire was to avoid switching routers and losing the settings work ive done. And it looks like the ER605 is specifically a gigabit router while i stated i needed multi gig in+out. Using the old router as an AP would also not fix the issue of the router itslef having shit wifi coverage which i stated was my issue in the original post. I actually went through with buying 3 poe omada APs a couple weeks ago and ran them to the front/back of the house, and the garage, hosting the controller software on my synology NAS. Very happy with the results. Im glad your solution worked out for you but im really not sure why you posted it as a reply to me as it solves none of the issues i was having.
I believe the VLANs were covered in one of the other videos we did on Configuring and OC200. We can't do anything around the NAS I am afraid, as we don't actively use them.
Hello...I plan on setting up some Omada AX1800 WAPs at two different sites. And the sites are connected over a VLAN. I would assume then I would just need one OC200 at the main site if I wanted to manage the APs via my phone over the Internet, right?
Good question. The APs essentially send out a broadcast looking for a controller. If they go through a router then that broadcast will probably be lost. If though you sent both up on the same network to start with and then move to the seperate networks, as long as there is routing between each VLAN, then both access points should be able to see the same controller. There are also a few other options you can go through to tell them to find the controller at a specific IP and using this you can even get them to connect a remote controller over the internet. I hope this helps you move in the right direction.
Great video - very clear I have the tplink switch out to 4 EAP225 waps Can I also connect my old wifi router into the switch and then that be a second network (diff SSID)? Will it just be plug and play or must configure w OC200 controller?
You can connect your old router, but unless it is a TP-Link Omada based product you won't be able to configure it from the OC200, you will need to log in to it and manage it directly on the device.
Hey sir, I'm planning to use tplink to my school, 2000 population, do you have a video what equipment to use, has Daily time record devices, vouchers for students, administration access faculty and staff, NAS drives.
Thanks for reaching out. We don't have a video that covers that I am afraid. You will want to think about your internet access speed, then from their you can use some of TP-Links tools to map out your building and walls and it will then allow you to "test" devices in place to give you the best wireless coverage for your location. I hope this gives you a starting point.
Thanks for another great vid, which is informative and fun to watch. I do have a question about the Tp-link ER605 v2. Which I want to connect to my Gen 3 starlink (in bypass mode) - meaning that I do not want wifi enabled on the Starlink line at all, just starlink dish - to ER605 with pc connect to the ER605. Have you done this before and what will be involved?
Good question. This will work with no issues at all. I would do it in the following steps. 1. Put the Starlink in to bypass mode 2. Connect the WAN of the ER605 to the ethernet port of the Gen3 router 3. Out of the box it should start working, but if not you will need to connect a computer on the LAN interface of the ER605 and follow the instructions to configure it with DHCP for the WAN interface and of you go. I hope this helps.
I handle a office rn do i need omada controller to work the mesh I want to buy 5 ap mesh tp link with individual lan cable to switch or do i need to name it the same and password to be just 1 SSID AND PASSWORD for whole office?
You can configure each access point with the same settings if you want, but if you want to have a single place to manage them all, then I would suggest either running the software controller, using the free online controller or buying an onsite controller.
"If 1 device has a poor connection, it will draw down the connection of other devices connected to the same AP". I dont quite understood this, could you kindly explain. Great video btw, subscribed!
Think of it like this. You have a group of friends over and you are all talking at an average volume in the same room. You can generally hear each other, but over time the person you want to talk to has moved to the other end of the room. You are the "Access Point" so have to stay where you are. To keep communicating with that friend you have to either shout louder or ask everyone else to quiet down (ie ask all the other devices to slow down) At some point your friend will be to far away for you to be able to hear without telling everyone else in the room to stop speaking (stop sending data) to you. This is how an access point works. It tries to listen and speak to each device evenly and fairly, but as devices move further away they get harder to comunciate with due to the "noise" around (ie walls, distance, electrical interference etc) To keep talking to those further away devices the access point has to slow the other conversations (quiet) of the devices closer hence reducing everyone's speed. This is what I mean by drawing down the speed conenction of all devices connected. This is why more access points are better than one, as it speeds out the communication and helps keep more devices within range. I hope this helps.
Are all access points the same? Do they require a 24/7 controller or PC/server to function properly? I'm looking to upgrade from powerline adapters, but if it’s going to cost me a fortune to achieve almost the same results, I’m confused about why people even bother. I’ve read numerous comments stating that their access points are no better, or even worse, than their standalone ISP routers. It seems that people are spending hundreds of pounds only to see little to no improvement, aside from an increase in their electricity bills. I find myself feeling very frustrated and exhausted. All I want is better Wi-Fi coverage, enhanced security, fewer dropouts, and greater reliability. Yet, it seems that the only options available come with significant price increases for minimal improvements.
I understand your pain. The key to wireless is actually the density of the wireless network not the power of an access point. People often think that getting a better / more powerful access point is the fix. The issue is not generally the access point, but the connecting device. Maybe think of it as an adult and a child playing soccer. The adult kicks the ball as hard as they can and tells the child to run after it. Once it stops they need to kick it back to the adult. It is just not possible as the child can't kick as far as the adult. This is the same in the wireless world. The signal can be "thrown" a long distance, but the receiving device is so much weaker it can't send the data back, so it won't work until it gets closer. As a result we need to consider more access points than less. We need to get the signal closer to the device needing to connect to it. As long as you have that in mind, then the answers to your questions are as follows. 1. You can use a 24/7 controller if you want, or just install it on a computer and start up the software when you need to change something. All Omada products draw their configuration from one location - the controller. As a result you only make updates in one place. If you are not interested in ongoing logging or fault diagnosis then you only need the software to be running when you want to make a change (like the SSID or password) 2. All access points from all vendors need to be at the right density level for wireless to have the best chance of working. In a standard house, with Gyprock walls, we always suggest an access point every 10 - 15m 3. Drops and reliablity with wireless are normally based on not enough density. Fix that and you will generally not have issues.
You don't have to have a controller, but if you don't have one you will need to individually setup / manage each access point. For one single location to make a change across all 40 access points (as long as they are Omada) then I would certainly spend on a controller
You can use any brand switch you want, it just won't be configureable / able to be managed in the Omada control panel, but other than that it should work fine.
We are professionals based in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. We would like to hire some engineers to deploy TP-Link wireless network. Is it something you have interest?
Having the most horrible experience with this… my switch and controller don’t come up, my router and APs do, however, all the network stops working within an hour, and then I reset and the same problem keeps happening
I am sorry to hear this. I am wondering what devices you have on the network that are running DHCP. Do you still have your old router in the network. The best way to set this up where a network is already in place, is to connect the Omada router (the WAN port) to your current router and then all the other OMADA items to that router.
@@The_Tech_GeeksI figured it out 2 days ago. The main problem was the fiber modem: had spectrum come and “fix it” (until who knows when). However, I still got the omada on “WAN Override” for my router since that’s what made it work best for those few days I was struggling with it; but I have a ER605(UN) V2.6, which also doesn’t come up in the options when editing the WAN override settings… so I’m a little scared to add it again as part of the devices
I also didn’t pay attention when ordering, and I ended up with an unmanaged switch, and that doesn’t come up in my devices or topology… my assumption is that is normal for unmanaged switches to not come up, but please correct me if I’m wrong
I just need to know how to hook the thing up. I don’t need the background of everything involved with the device. Do you have a video that just gets straight to the point this is ridiculous.
Thanks for your comments. This video was about the basics of what is needed if you are considering runnig TP-Link Omada. I am afraid it was not designed to be an installation guide or a software configuration set by step. We have some futher videos coming out later this week on how to install the software or configure an OC200 if you are using that to manage and run your TP-Link Omada network
Funny. My most common reply is: can you please tell WHAT you do and WHY, and I'll use the manual on HOW to do it. The first two are the only thing one needs, the latter can easily be found online. Another video I just watched before this one was 'click here, click there, type this, press OK' and for me completely useless because of the lack of info. In this case: this video was refreshing, giving all necessary info in a very accessible form.
Then probably the best option is not to use an Omada product but a standard TP-Link Access point. Even if you choose an Omada one you will find it has a default network name (SSID) and password stamped on the device, so it is ready to use out of the box without any further configuration. The controller is there if you want maanagement and change control.
Gooday! Thanks for making this very informative and concise video. Very clear and helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Omada is the best thing since sliced bread! There are so many different types of access points available and many management options. If someone wants or needs to use more than one access point, this is the way to go. Its cheaper than Ubiquiti and looks to be just as capable. It is so easy to expand and scale the system as the need arises.
I totally agree, it can be a great solution and now with a couple of wireless bridge options in the Omada range it has jumped forward even further
I was struggling to come up with a solution for a quality WIFI solution for my property. Good fortune led me to your channel. I have gain knowledge and can now move forward solving my WIFI challenge. Much Thanks and Best Cheers!~! PS: now a subscriber and will be reviewing your past video offerings to improve my knowledge (especially on the TP Link side of things).
Great to hear!
I am new to networking, but if you just wire your EAP610 directly to your ISP modem aren't you running the risk without a firewall or any vlan options. This is the only video that I have seen that suggests the router as an optional item and the hardware controller as the required option. Seems like a better solution would be to us an ER605 as router and then setup the EAP610 in standalone mode. From what I have seen, the hardware controller is really only needed for a mesh setup with multiple AP. Thanks for all the informational videos.
Good question. A standard router does what is called NAT (Network Address Translation). This "converts" public IP addresses to private ones and private to public ones. By default inbound traffic from the internet (WAN) can't travel to the private address range (LAN) without a port forwarding rule in place. As a result pretty much out of the box a router will already basically protect your network, so it is OK to plug an access point directly in to the router (not the internet connection, that would be unsave) What we get with firewalling is the ability to inspect the traffic and see what it is doing and thefore protect against applications etc that may have an adverse effect on your devices.
The hardware controller is really just needed if you have multiple devices or want ongoing management and monitoring so the software install on a computer for many will be a good starting point.
You can create a mesh without the controllers just using the omada app. That's what I have. The phone doesn't need to be there and it works flawlessly for me. You need to update the firmware in my experience before it works. No extra cost
I appreciate the router section very much. The vast majority of videos on these products focus on the whole solution and all the management options. I'm a pc enthusiast and a gamer. Networking was never really my thing. I recently got 2 gigabit internet coming into the house and needed a router that could handle multi-gig in and out to other devices/a switch. Turns out that buying the cheapest router with that option means they seriously skimped on the wifi strength. I think I'll be keeping my current router and just buying a controller and a poe switch, and just blanketing my place in overkill levels of wifi.
You got it. Much better to split the router and the wireless if you want performance.
Turn your router into an access point. Then buy the ER605 as your router... if you have bought a decent router there should be a setting to turn it into a wifi access point. That's what I did to my 250 dollar Netgear mesh router.
@@daveuerk4030 the main desire was to avoid switching routers and losing the settings work ive done. And it looks like the ER605 is specifically a gigabit router while i stated i needed multi gig in+out. Using the old router as an AP would also not fix the issue of the router itslef having shit wifi coverage which i stated was my issue in the original post. I actually went through with buying 3 poe omada APs a couple weeks ago and ran them to the front/back of the house, and the garage, hosting the controller software on my synology NAS. Very happy with the results. Im glad your solution worked out for you but im really not sure why you posted it as a reply to me as it solves none of the issues i was having.
Very good video. It solved many questions I had. Thank you!
so pleased it helped
Hi, Could you do a demonstration setup of VLANs on TP-Link Omada and a Synology NAS?
I believe the VLANs were covered in one of the other videos we did on Configuring and OC200. We can't do anything around the NAS I am afraid, as we don't actively use them.
Great job explaining this. Exactly what I needed. Thank you so much
Great, pleased it was a help
Hello...I plan on setting up some Omada AX1800 WAPs at two different sites. And the sites are connected over a VLAN. I would assume then I would just need one OC200 at the main site if I wanted to manage the APs via my phone over the Internet, right?
Good question. The APs essentially send out a broadcast looking for a controller. If they go through a router then that broadcast will probably be lost. If though you sent both up on the same network to start with and then move to the seperate networks, as long as there is routing between each VLAN, then both access points should be able to see the same controller. There are also a few other options you can go through to tell them to find the controller at a specific IP and using this you can even get them to connect a remote controller over the internet. I hope this helps you move in the right direction.
Great video - very clear
I have the tplink switch out to 4 EAP225 waps
Can I also connect my old wifi router into the switch and then that be a second network (diff SSID)?
Will it just be plug and play or must configure w OC200 controller?
You can connect your old router, but unless it is a TP-Link Omada based product you won't be able to configure it from the OC200, you will need to log in to it and manage it directly on the device.
Hey sir, I'm planning to use tplink to my school, 2000 population, do you have a video what equipment to use, has Daily time record devices, vouchers for students, administration access faculty and staff, NAS drives.
Thanks for reaching out. We don't have a video that covers that I am afraid. You will want to think about your internet access speed, then from their you can use some of TP-Links tools to map out your building and walls and it will then allow you to "test" devices in place to give you the best wireless coverage for your location. I hope this gives you a starting point.
Thanks for another great vid, which is informative and fun to watch. I do have a question about the Tp-link ER605 v2. Which I want to connect to my Gen 3 starlink (in bypass mode) - meaning that I do not want wifi enabled on the Starlink line at all, just starlink dish - to ER605 with pc connect to the ER605. Have you done this before and what will be involved?
Good question. This will work with no issues at all. I would do it in the following steps.
1. Put the Starlink in to bypass mode
2. Connect the WAN of the ER605 to the ethernet port of the Gen3 router
3. Out of the box it should start working, but if not you will need to connect a computer on the LAN interface of the ER605 and follow the instructions to configure it with DHCP for the WAN interface and of you go.
I hope this helps.
Awesome video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
I handle a office rn do i need omada controller to work the mesh
I want to buy 5 ap mesh tp link with individual lan cable to switch or do i need to name it the same and password to be just 1 SSID AND PASSWORD for whole office?
You can configure each access point with the same settings if you want, but if you want to have a single place to manage them all, then I would suggest either running the software controller, using the free online controller or buying an onsite controller.
"If 1 device has a poor connection, it will draw down the connection of other devices connected to the same AP". I dont quite understood this, could you kindly explain. Great video btw, subscribed!
Think of it like this.
You have a group of friends over and you are all talking at an average volume in the same room. You can generally hear each other, but over time the person you want to talk to has moved to the other end of the room. You are the "Access Point" so have to stay where you are.
To keep communicating with that friend you have to either shout louder or ask everyone else to quiet down (ie ask all the other devices to slow down) At some point your friend will be to far away for you to be able to hear without telling everyone else in the room to stop speaking (stop sending data) to you.
This is how an access point works. It tries to listen and speak to each device evenly and fairly, but as devices move further away they get harder to comunciate with due to the "noise" around (ie walls, distance, electrical interference etc) To keep talking to those further away devices the access point has to slow the other conversations (quiet) of the devices closer hence reducing everyone's speed.
This is what I mean by drawing down the speed conenction of all devices connected. This is why more access points are better than one, as it speeds out the communication and helps keep more devices within range.
I hope this helps.
@@The_Tech_Geeks omg thanks so much for that. You guys are severely underrated!
Are all access points the same? Do they require a 24/7 controller or PC/server to function properly? I'm looking to upgrade from powerline adapters, but if it’s going to cost me a fortune to achieve almost the same results, I’m confused about why people even bother.
I’ve read numerous comments stating that their access points are no better, or even worse, than their standalone ISP routers. It seems that people are spending hundreds of pounds only to see little to no improvement, aside from an increase in their electricity bills.
I find myself feeling very frustrated and exhausted. All I want is better Wi-Fi coverage, enhanced security, fewer dropouts, and greater reliability. Yet, it seems that the only options available come with significant price increases for minimal improvements.
I understand your pain. The key to wireless is actually the density of the wireless network not the power of an access point. People often think that getting a better / more powerful access point is the fix. The issue is not generally the access point, but the connecting device.
Maybe think of it as an adult and a child playing soccer. The adult kicks the ball as hard as they can and tells the child to run after it. Once it stops they need to kick it back to the adult. It is just not possible as the child can't kick as far as the adult. This is the same in the wireless world. The signal can be "thrown" a long distance, but the receiving device is so much weaker it can't send the data back, so it won't work until it gets closer.
As a result we need to consider more access points than less. We need to get the signal closer to the device needing to connect to it.
As long as you have that in mind, then the answers to your questions are as follows.
1. You can use a 24/7 controller if you want, or just install it on a computer and start up the software when you need to change something. All Omada products draw their configuration from one location - the controller. As a result you only make updates in one place. If you are not interested in ongoing logging or fault diagnosis then you only need the software to be running when you want to make a change (like the SSID or password)
2. All access points from all vendors need to be at the right density level for wireless to have the best chance of working. In a standard house, with Gyprock walls, we always suggest an access point every 10 - 15m
3. Drops and reliablity with wireless are normally based on not enough density. Fix that and you will generally not have issues.
@@The_Tech_Geeks Thank you for your feedback, greatly appreciated.
very helpful, thank you
You're welcome!
40 accses point. In one building. Do i need a controller?
You don't have to have a controller, but if you don't have one you will need to individually setup / manage each access point. For one single location to make a change across all 40 access points (as long as they are Omada) then I would certainly spend on a controller
Can i use another brand switch
You can use any brand switch you want, it just won't be configureable / able to be managed in the Omada control panel, but other than that it should work fine.
Thanks
Welcome
We are professionals based in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. We would like to hire some engineers to deploy TP-Link wireless network. Is it something you have interest?
Great to hear from you. I am afraid we are in Australia, so may not be alot of help to you, sorry
Having the most horrible experience with this… my switch and controller don’t come up, my router and APs do, however, all the network stops working within an hour, and then I reset and the same problem keeps happening
I am sorry to hear this. I am wondering what devices you have on the network that are running DHCP. Do you still have your old router in the network. The best way to set this up where a network is already in place, is to connect the Omada router (the WAN port) to your current router and then all the other OMADA items to that router.
@@The_Tech_GeeksI figured it out 2 days ago. The main problem was the fiber modem: had spectrum come and “fix it” (until who knows when).
However, I still got the omada on “WAN Override” for my router since that’s what made it work best for those few days I was struggling with it; but I have a ER605(UN) V2.6, which also doesn’t come up in the options when editing the WAN override settings… so I’m a little scared to add it again as part of the devices
I also didn’t pay attention when ordering, and I ended up with an unmanaged switch, and that doesn’t come up in my devices or topology… my assumption is that is normal for unmanaged switches to not come up, but please correct me if I’m wrong
That is correct. Only Omada managed switches will appear in the controller.
I just need to know how to hook the thing up. I don’t need the background of everything involved with the device. Do you have a video that just gets straight to the point this is ridiculous.
Thanks for your comments. This video was about the basics of what is needed if you are considering runnig TP-Link Omada. I am afraid it was not designed to be an installation guide or a software configuration set by step. We have some futher videos coming out later this week on how to install the software or configure an OC200 if you are using that to manage and run your TP-Link Omada network
Funny. My most common reply is: can you please tell WHAT you do and WHY, and I'll use the manual on HOW to do it. The first two are the only thing one needs, the latter can easily be found online.
Another video I just watched before this one was 'click here, click there, type this, press OK' and for me completely useless because of the lack of info.
In this case: this video was refreshing, giving all necessary info in a very accessible form.
@@NicoDeclerckBelgium I’m blind so the manual isn’t a option. I have to listen to the instructions
nothing you dont alredy have really, you can run omada in a vm.
Correct, you can install direct on the operating system, create a VM, run it on your NAS, there are lots of options
This device is sooo confusing.
I don’t need all this mumbo jumbo.
I just want to plug to modem.. and get on Wi-Fi… fml….
I believe the WAPs can be ran in stand alone.
Then probably the best option is not to use an Omada product but a standard TP-Link Access point. Even if you choose an Omada one you will find it has a default network name (SSID) and password stamped on the device, so it is ready to use out of the box without any further configuration. The controller is there if you want maanagement and change control.
Correct they can and they have detault SSID and password configured at the factory from memory