Thanks for the great video! One thing I would like to add is that you can check the resistance of each heater element and disconnect the one that is causing issues. You’ll have to open up the electronics box at the top of the heater and use a multimeter to check resistance of each heating element. I just pulled the tabs out for that element and heater is working fine now. This way you can get 5 out of six elements to work immediately. And once you get a replacement heater, you can swap out the entire thing to get all 6 working
Just replaced my PTC heater with the Tesla service instructions and this video as a supplement which was very helpful. A warning to AWD owners, you won't have nearly the amount of space to work on the high voltage plugs because there'll be a front motor assembly in the way. I struggled to get mine disconnected for about 45 minutes.
Glad it worked out! Yeah, I was thankful for all the extra space in RWD models but I also struggled mightily to get the plug undone. In fact, many of the plugs in this car are difficult to didn't for me at least
@@jaakkoholster532 once you pull the red tab you need to push in the small orange button inside of that tab. The red tab just serves as a lock to prevent the button from depressing. You need to hold that button in to disconnect the plug. Part of what made it so hard was that my fingers are fat to depress the button fully, I needed to use a screwdriver to press it which then leaves you a hand short when you try to pull the two sides of the plug apart.
@@jaakkoholster532 I was tricky for sure. Once I popped out the red tab also pried off part of the other ratchet/lock, its either orange or black. I was playing around with it and tugging and using the screwdriver and it kind of fell off by accident but maybe it helped. Next, I took the tiny flathead screwdriver and slid it into the slot that runs parallel with the current/wires. After several minutes of poking and prodding around it finally came off while I was using the screwdriver and pulling at the same time. I feel like I got lucky doing it this way as when I tried it again later I couldnt do it and my buddy had to. I would wear HV gloves while doing this and make sure both 12v and main battery are disconnected of course.
i have a model 3 from 29-06-2019 next month my warranty will expire. I want to go on holiday by car and I am afraid that it will break down on the way so that I can no longer drive. How does such a PTC heater break down? by turning on the heating? Or can it also break if you have the air conditioning on? is it possible to have the state of the ptc heater checked in advance? at Tesla
Thanks for the video. I just followed your instructions with a new heater from Tesla. It worked perfectly. I now have no errors and heat. Just for info I ordered the PTC heater with the service kit. The service kit it just a door that replaces the piece you cut out with 2 screws.
I took mine to Tesla Service Center today. Turns out the problem WAS the PTC heater. However, apparently I got a bad, used one since it did not fix my problem. Oh well, video coming soon for anyone that wants to see.
Just payed 1300 to have mine replaced at tesla (700 heater 500 diagnostics and labor, CAD) With so many clips and being winter, it was worth the money to not accidentally break or cause more damage to components. I kept the old PTC heater, and it looks like salt may have been seeping inside one of the corners. I hope they installed the new gasket like you mentioned in the video.
Hoping to try to get this module put in maybe even as early as today but doubtful as my garage and kitchen are under construction. I'll keep everyone informed to see if the right side vehicle control module is the problem or not.
Thank you friend, Great video, my model 3 gave an error PTC. I will have to roll up my sleeves and change the heater. I love Tesla for the emotions and also for the accessible manual open to users.
Good to hear you are going to try it yourself. I just learned yesterday the PTC heater I installed in this video was faulty. Tesla Service Center put in a brand new one (this cars third heater now) and it works great. You may want to consider buying a brand new heater from Tesla instead of a used one like I did. New video coming out from me today to talk about this!
(2019 sr+ no heat pump) since the new update years ago with the car defrost feature. i've been abusing that nonstop for months and my ptc heater gave out. i bought a used one from ingenext for about 500 shipped. the first time took 3 hours, and i left all the wires disconnected as i wait 2 days for my part to arrive. my 12v battery died overnight with my frunk shut. i used jumper cable from my wifes car to jump the 2 wires behind the tow hook cap. the car had a hard time trickle charging the 12v because the car just seem to suck whatever charge to the battery. i ended up disconnecting the 12v and then charging it for a few hours. then i was able to power up the car again. i think it died because i disconnected the 2 thick orange wires under the car. i believe the car's drive battery charges the 12v. i put everything back together and just waited for the part to arrive and then i'll do it again. the second time took me rough an hour since i knew exactly what to do. the hardest part was pulling the carpet back far enough to slide the heater out. i ended up cutting the top part of the foam piece about 2 inches so it can bend under the glovebox area. once folded back you can't tell the foam piece was cut
Great video, very informative, sorry it didn’t fix the issue. My model 3 also had the PTC fault, Tesla quoted £718 to replace. Almost went through with it but the latest software update 2023.12.5 contains a firmware update that allows the PTC heater to run at a reduced efficiency, clearing any errors and allowing heat into the cabin, it’s just not as effective in very cold conditions I believe. Should be no issue in summer and we get fairly mild winters in the UK so might not fix it at all.
good afternoon, yesterday a user from the group experienced a situation similar to yours. Installed another heater and it didn't work. reinstalling the software did not give the desired result. but after a detailed analysis, he found out that the problem was in the high-voltage connector of the heater (orange). One pin of which moved down and there was no contact. After he corrected it, everything worked immediately.
Just did the PTC replacment on a Tesla 3 (2019) the car will drive and charge again, Ie. It did fix the probelm , Now it looks like the firmeware is not updating, so I guess Toolbox 3 is next step, Cabels for the conecction is next 🙂
@@MindofMatter I gave up waiting for Tesla to get the parts so I got a used PTC heater and gave that connector a second chance. This time i got it loose in 1-2 minutes. The rest of the exchange went smoothly thanks to your video and Teslas instructions. Now I have heat again! Thanks for the video! Really showed me that this is something that was doable. Especially the end part when you reinstalled the software, that is a crucial step. Thanks from Sweden!
Loved the video, very well described. My M3 is currently locked in park giving bms_a151, VCRIGHT_a538_hvacSystemNotNominal, bms_a035 errors which led me to your video. Teslas remote diagnosis suggested a component on the HV circuit like the PTC heater, air con, motor or battery. Im trying to narrow down if its the PTC heater so that I can isolate it and preferably get the car to drive to the service center. If it is the PTC heater, do you know if I disconnect the HV connector like you did on the underside of the vehicle, will the vehicle power up successfully if this was the faulty part? Or will its loss of detection result in a different fault keeping the car in park?
I am not sure but first i would make sure you never touch the HV cable for the PTC or any HV cable unless it is safely disconnected from the HV battery. Once the PTC cable is disconnected and you reconnect the HV battery again, I am not sure, sorry. I would just be speculating.
@@MindofMatter Thanks for the reply! I gave it a shot and the car gave me other errors. Reading more into it, it looks like my method to isolate a broken part would not work. The car continuously monitors the HV lines at various points around the car for safety. If it detects a fault, like a break, it will turn off all the HV lines. This means that if you disconnect a HV connector like one to the heater, it will detect this as a fault and refuse to power up the HV lines. The recommended way to determine a faulty part is using an insulation test at the connectors static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10052460-6095.pdf Thanks for the help regardless. Looks like I will be leaving this to the Tesla Service Center engineers.
@@diarmaiddan that makes a lot of sense, the way Tesla checks for continuity. Sorry it's not a DIY fix. I gave up after the repair attempt in this video and took it to a service center too
Thanks for the video! I plan on replacing my cabin blower motor soon since mine has some weird noises at high speeds. Do you know of a way to get access to the service manuals for cheaper/free? I don't feel like paying that much to see them!
@@JosephSanders I am able to access for free just now. Create a Tesla service account, not diagnostic subscription, and log in. You will see the service manual option
@@MindofMatter oh my gosh, I just figured it out. Thanks! Maybe I'll make a video of how to replace the cabin blower motor to help the next guy, like you did. Thanks again!
After scouring the manual, I can’t seem to find where it says to disconnect the main HV wire connections on the drivers side of the vehicle. I think you were doing exploratory surgery at that point. You might want to read a bit more carefully next time. It’s just the 12v battery disconnect, then the Hv controller disconnect under the rear seat passenger side. Then verify isolation on the drivers side at the terminals. Don’t touch the big guys.
It looks like there are three parts to the job. Part 1 is the remove kill the power close to the battery. 2 is to detatch the PTC underneath the car and 3 is to actually remove the ptc. Why not just do a battery test in service mode and run the battery to 0 and skip the first part entirely?
It's not standard or safe practice to work on a car without disconnecting the battery first. Furthermore, and indicated 0% is not actually 0% battery. That battery is still charged and dangerous even when you can drain it as low as the car indicates. Please don't do what you describe, ever
Can't you take it out from the front, it looks like you just changed the heat, your part is in the front by the 12 vision isn't it? The board with all the plugs on?
My only goal was to change the PTC heater, that is correct. However it cannot be taken out from the front. It must be taken out from the interior from the center console
Hello Rich or anybody that might be able to help ! My Tesla failed last week and shutdown. I tried boosting the vehicle and it would start for a bit but then it shut down again. I had it towed in and they said the PTC heater and 12V need to be replaced. They said the PTC is what is forcing the car to shut down. I just want to double check they are not lying to me and trying to make a buck
I honestly can't remember if I ended up taking it out now or not, the airbag I mean. However if I said in the video I didn't take it out then i promise that's what happened. Here is how I got the heater out with airbag in place (below in this message). I know my goal was to try to remove the carpet without removing the airbag and for a while I tried. I just can't remember if I ended up succeeding or not but whatever I put in the video is the truth even if later I admitted defeat and had to take the airbag out first. I remember for a while I tried twisting and wrenching the very stiff part of the carpet back so that it would barely clear under the dash even with the airbag in place. Only part of it was able to clear so I might have even twisted it pretty hard and bent the rigid part of the floor and carpet a little bit in order to get the carpet back. Even then it was not fully removed but it gave me enough room to fool around near the heater. I think I ended up folding the carpet back like a Z shape on top of itself and then pulling the whole Z-shape back. It was difficult and probably ended up damaging the stiff part of the carpet a little bit with cracks or bends or something but it didn't matter since it was going back flat against the floor later anyway. At least it didn't matter to me
Thanks for the detailed reply buddy. I just saw this and had finished doing exactly what you mentioned. Just yanked on the hard part and it folded over. Fishing the cable thru now! Great help bud!! Let's hope my eBay one is not faulty. They wanted to charge $600 for a new one at the dealership
Not yet. I'll keep you all posted. A mobile mechanic who specializes in EVs is coming in 6 days to help me diagnose. I do not have the high voltage isolation test equipment. We are thinking it's the PTC heater fuse under the rear seat but could be others things like interior temp sensors or even a wiring harness. I'll update when I find out so subscribe so you will see the next video
@@RajPatel-tm2ch Based on this thread, it seems like it tests to performance of how effective a working HVAC system is....not diagnostics testing on a non-functioning one. teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/climate-keeper-unavailable-due-to-system-fault.188502/page-3
@@MindofMatter it will actually send out some phantom comm signals and try to indicate faults. Would urge you to try. You’ll get a whole list of pass/fails after it done running. Should take a few minutes Also have you looked into the 6 service alerts? Should tell you what’s faulting and where the holdup might be.
Much longer for me. I forget at this point but more like 3-5 hours since working on this thing was new to me and disconnecting the front high voltage connector was a struggle for me too
@@MindofMatter I got an error of this car might not start again. Took it to tesla. They gave me a quote for 1100 for this new ptc heater dual zone. 550 for part n rest labor. I feel like I'm getting ripped off. What do u think? 2018 M3 AWD 64K miles
@@grouponful When I finished my replacement in this video and it STILL didnt work...I figured the problem was something else so I took it to Tesla to diagnose. They also diagnosed a PTC heater so the used one I bought was bad, apparently. Oh well. I ended up paying $1100 to Tesla to actually fix the problem. If you can afford it, I would do the $1100 and know that it will work and have some kind of short term warranty period. If cash is tight, see if you can live with just heated seats and buy a Milwaukee battery-electric heated jacket to get thru the winter.
I'm in chicago so I think I should just pay it😵💫 plus the error said car might not turn back on. I need my car for work. So much went wrong the second the warranty expired! Pcs system. 1500 bucks. Heated seats/ airbag error, 500 bucks. Now this bs error 1100. It's like tesla sent an update after the warranty expired so every few months a new error code that costs 1k would pop up. I love my tesla but now don't even want to deal with it cause 6 months from now another bs error code will pop up
@@grouponful Try this guy on Facebook. He is local and we have gotten together a couple times for diagnosing my heater issue a year ago. Good guy. He just replaced a PTC heater for someone else (his most recent FB post). "EVolution Mobile" www.evolutionmobile.net/
Not too hard. Worst part is probably getting the high voltage cable connector disconnected in the front. I don't have a front motor so that helps make it easier but I imagine if you have a front motor that's pretty tough. Everything else is pretty easy just without a call in time consuming. I guess another downside is when you complete the job and test it out only then do you realize if it won't work or not, you can't test it out as soon as you put the new one in because you have to reconnect a bunch of things
Thanks for the great video! One thing I would like to add is that you can check the resistance of each heater element and disconnect the one that is causing issues. You’ll have to open up the electronics box at the top of the heater and use a multimeter to check resistance of each heating element. I just pulled the tabs out for that element and heater is working fine now. This way you can get 5 out of six elements to work immediately. And once you get a replacement heater, you can swap out the entire thing to get all 6 working
Great suggestion, thank you!!
I think I saw the picture you posted on the forum. So the component you circled is a tab that you can just pull off?
@@Kenjaiz not sure which component or picture so I don't want to mislead you. Can you be more specific?
I would also be glad to know where this was posted?@@Kenjaiz
Do you have a picture to show which part can be cut?
Just replaced my PTC heater with the Tesla service instructions and this video as a supplement which was very helpful. A warning to AWD owners, you won't have nearly the amount of space to work on the high voltage plugs because there'll be a front motor assembly in the way. I struggled to get mine disconnected for about 45 minutes.
Glad it worked out! Yeah, I was thankful for all the extra space in RWD models but I also struggled mightily to get the plug undone. In fact, many of the plugs in this car are difficult to didn't for me at least
How did you manage to disconnect it without breaking it? After pulling the red tab, I cannot make any progress. Whats the secret there?
@@jaakkoholster532 once you pull the red tab you need to push in the small orange button inside of that tab. The red tab just serves as a lock to prevent the button from depressing. You need to hold that button in to disconnect the plug. Part of what made it so hard was that my fingers are fat to depress the button fully, I needed to use a screwdriver to press it which then leaves you a hand short when you try to pull the two sides of the plug apart.
@@jaakkoholster532 I was tricky for sure. Once I popped out the red tab also pried off part of the other ratchet/lock, its either orange or black. I was playing around with it and tugging and using the screwdriver and it kind of fell off by accident but maybe it helped. Next, I took the tiny flathead screwdriver and slid it into the slot that runs parallel with the current/wires. After several minutes of poking and prodding around it finally came off while I was using the screwdriver and pulling at the same time. I feel like I got lucky doing it this way as when I tried it again later I couldnt do it and my buddy had to. I would wear HV gloves while doing this and make sure both 12v and main battery are disconnected of course.
i have a model 3 from 29-06-2019 next month my warranty will expire. I want to go on holiday by car and I am afraid that it will break down on the way so that I can no longer drive. How does such a PTC heater break down? by turning on the heating? Or can it also break if you have the air conditioning on? is it possible to have the state of the ptc heater checked in advance? at Tesla
Thanks for the video. I just followed your instructions with a new heater from Tesla. It worked perfectly. I now have no errors and heat. Just for info I ordered the PTC heater with the service kit. The service kit it just a door that replaces the piece you cut out with 2 screws.
So glad it worked out for you! No such luck for me, still tracking it down.
I took mine to Tesla Service Center today. Turns out the problem WAS the PTC heater. However, apparently I got a bad, used one since it did not fix my problem. Oh well, video coming soon for anyone that wants to see.
Just payed 1300 to have mine replaced at tesla (700 heater 500 diagnostics and labor, CAD)
With so many clips and being winter, it was worth the money to not accidentally break or cause more damage to components.
I kept the old PTC heater, and it looks like salt may have been seeping inside one of the corners. I hope they installed the new gasket like you mentioned in the video.
Totally get that, yeah, when this didn't work I gave up and pulled out the credit card too.
Run into the same problem today with my 2019 SR+, no heat. Considering my options for fixing it. Thanks for sharing all the information!
Hoping to try to get this module put in maybe even as early as today but doubtful as my garage and kitchen are under construction. I'll keep everyone informed to see if the right side vehicle control module is the problem or not.
Thank you friend,
Great video, my model 3 gave an error PTC.
I will have to roll up my sleeves and change the heater.
I love Tesla for the emotions and also for the accessible manual open to users.
Good to hear you are going to try it yourself. I just learned yesterday the PTC heater I installed in this video was faulty. Tesla Service Center put in a brand new one (this cars third heater now) and it works great. You may want to consider buying a brand new heater from Tesla instead of a used one like I did. New video coming out from me today to talk about this!
(2019 sr+ no heat pump) since the new update years ago with the car defrost feature. i've been abusing that nonstop for months and my ptc heater gave out. i bought a used one from ingenext for about 500 shipped. the first time took 3 hours, and i left all the wires disconnected as i wait 2 days for my part to arrive.
my 12v battery died overnight with my frunk shut. i used jumper cable from my wifes car to jump the 2 wires behind the tow hook cap. the car had a hard time trickle charging the 12v because the car just seem to suck whatever charge to the battery. i ended up disconnecting the 12v and then charging it for a few hours. then i was able to power up the car again. i think it died because i disconnected the 2 thick orange wires under the car. i believe the car's drive battery charges the 12v.
i put everything back together and just waited for the part to arrive and then i'll do it again. the second time took me rough an hour since i knew exactly what to do. the hardest part was pulling the carpet back far enough to slide the heater out. i ended up cutting the top part of the foam piece about 2 inches so it can bend under the glovebox area. once folded back you can't tell the foam piece was cut
Thanks for letting us know. I agree on the carpet part, that sucks.
Yeah, pretty sure the propulsion battery charges the 12v
Great video, very informative, sorry it didn’t fix the issue. My model 3 also had the PTC fault, Tesla quoted £718 to replace. Almost went through with it but the latest software update 2023.12.5 contains a firmware update that allows the PTC heater to run at a reduced efficiency, clearing any errors and allowing heat into the cabin, it’s just not as effective in very cold conditions I believe. Should be no issue in summer and we get fairly mild winters in the UK so might not fix it at all.
Interesting to know. Thank you!
good afternoon, yesterday a user from the group experienced a situation similar to yours. Installed another heater and it didn't work. reinstalling the software did not give the desired result. but after a detailed analysis, he found out that the problem was in the high-voltage connector of the heater (orange). One pin of which moved down and there was no contact. After he corrected it, everything worked immediately.
Thank you for this help! We will check that as well
Great well done, many thanks for showing great instruction.
Awesome video
Thanks for watching! Hope it helped.
Just did the PTC replacment on a Tesla 3 (2019) the car will drive and charge again, Ie. It did fix the probelm , Now it looks like the firmeware is not updating, so I guess Toolbox 3 is next step, Cabels for the conecction is next 🙂
Keep us posted on progress!
Tried to do this, but it was really tricky to disconnect the HV connection. I have a dual motor.. very limited space 😅. I had to give up
Its sucks, not just the connections in general but that one in particular.
@@MindofMatter I gave up waiting for Tesla to get the parts so I got a used PTC heater and gave that connector a second chance. This time i got it loose in 1-2 minutes. The rest of the exchange went smoothly thanks to your video and Teslas instructions. Now I have heat again! Thanks for the video! Really showed me that this is something that was doable. Especially the end part when you reinstalled the software, that is a crucial step. Thanks from Sweden!
@@mikeberg22se Thanks for the update on your story. This really makes me glad that the video is useful to you and congratulations on a job well done!
Loved the video, very well described. My M3 is currently locked in park giving bms_a151, VCRIGHT_a538_hvacSystemNotNominal, bms_a035 errors which led me to your video. Teslas remote diagnosis suggested a component on the HV circuit like the PTC heater, air con, motor or battery. Im trying to narrow down if its the PTC heater so that I can isolate it and preferably get the car to drive to the service center. If it is the PTC heater, do you know if I disconnect the HV connector like you did on the underside of the vehicle, will the vehicle power up successfully if this was the faulty part? Or will its loss of detection result in a different fault keeping the car in park?
I am not sure but first i would make sure you never touch the HV cable for the PTC or any HV cable unless it is safely disconnected from the HV battery.
Once the PTC cable is disconnected and you reconnect the HV battery again, I am not sure, sorry. I would just be speculating.
@@MindofMatter Thanks for the reply! I gave it a shot and the car gave me other errors. Reading more into it, it looks like my method to isolate a broken part would not work. The car continuously monitors the HV lines at various points around the car for safety. If it detects a fault, like a break, it will turn off all the HV lines. This means that if you disconnect a HV connector like one to the heater, it will detect this as a fault and refuse to power up the HV lines. The recommended way to determine a faulty part is using an insulation test at the connectors static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10052460-6095.pdf Thanks for the help regardless. Looks like I will be leaving this to the Tesla Service Center engineers.
@@diarmaiddan that makes a lot of sense, the way Tesla checks for continuity.
Sorry it's not a DIY fix. I gave up after the repair attempt in this video and took it to a service center too
Thanks for the video! I plan on replacing my cabin blower motor soon since mine has some weird noises at high speeds. Do you know of a way to get access to the service manuals for cheaper/free? I don't feel like paying that much to see them!
They were free a year ago and I believe are still free. You have to sign up for a subscription but the cost is $0
@@MindofMatter I just checked and the daily cost is $165, $500 for a month. Tesla trying to make money off of that!
@@JosephSanders I am able to access for free just now. Create a Tesla service account, not diagnostic subscription, and log in. You will see the service manual option
@@MindofMatter oh my gosh, I just figured it out. Thanks! Maybe I'll make a video of how to replace the cabin blower motor to help the next guy, like you did. Thanks again!
After scouring the manual, I can’t seem to find where it says to disconnect the main HV wire connections on the drivers side of the vehicle. I think you were doing exploratory surgery at that point. You might want to read a bit more carefully next time. It’s just the 12v battery disconnect, then the Hv controller disconnect under the rear seat passenger side. Then verify isolation on the drivers side at the terminals. Don’t touch the big guys.
This is true, I didn't need to disconnect the driver side stuff
It looks like there are three parts to the job. Part 1 is the remove kill the power close to the battery. 2 is to detatch the PTC underneath the car and 3 is to actually remove the ptc. Why not just do a battery test in service mode and run the battery to 0 and skip the first part entirely?
It's not standard or safe practice to work on a car without disconnecting the battery first. Furthermore, and indicated 0% is not actually 0% battery. That battery is still charged and dangerous even when you can drain it as low as the car indicates. Please don't do what you describe, ever
Hello folks, just wanted to know about an average of work type from front to back to do this
Can't you take it out from the front, it looks like you just changed the heat, your part is in the front by the 12 vision isn't it? The board with all the plugs on?
My only goal was to change the PTC heater, that is correct. However it cannot be taken out from the front. It must be taken out from the interior from the center console
Hello Rich or anybody that might be able to help ! My Tesla failed last week and shutdown. I tried boosting the vehicle and it would start for a bit but then it shut down again. I had it towed in and they said the PTC heater and 12V need to be replaced. They said the PTC is what is forcing the car to shut down. I just want to double check they are not lying to me and trying to make a buck
How did you pull the carpet all the way back without removing the knee airbag? My carpet is the only thing is the way now😢
I honestly can't remember if I ended up taking it out now or not, the airbag I mean. However if I said in the video I didn't take it out then i promise that's what happened. Here is how I got the heater out with airbag in place (below in this message). I know my goal was to try to remove the carpet without removing the airbag and for a while I tried. I just can't remember if I ended up succeeding or not but whatever I put in the video is the truth even if later I admitted defeat and had to take the airbag out first.
I remember for a while I tried twisting and wrenching the very stiff part of the carpet back so that it would barely clear under the dash even with the airbag in place. Only part of it was able to clear so I might have even twisted it pretty hard and bent the rigid part of the floor and carpet a little bit in order to get the carpet back. Even then it was not fully removed but it gave me enough room to fool around near the heater. I think I ended up folding the carpet back like a Z shape on top of itself and then pulling the whole Z-shape back. It was difficult and probably ended up damaging the stiff part of the carpet a little bit with cracks or bends or something but it didn't matter since it was going back flat against the floor later anyway. At least it didn't matter to me
Thanks for the detailed reply buddy. I just saw this and had finished doing exactly what you mentioned. Just yanked on the hard part and it folded over. Fishing the cable thru now! Great help bud!! Let's hope my eBay one is not faulty. They wanted to charge $600 for a new one at the dealership
@@RPXIII let me know how it goes and good luck
All done with a working heater! 🎉 many thanks!
Where you get the service manual
You have to create an account on the Tesla service site. It is free. Then find your model and then view the manual
service.tesla.com/service-manuals
Ever end up getting the heat working?
Not yet. I'll keep you all posted. A mobile mechanic who specializes in EVs is coming in 6 days to help me diagnose. I do not have the high voltage isolation test equipment. We are thinking it's the PTC heater fuse under the rear seat but could be others things like interior temp sensors or even a wiring harness. I'll update when I find out so subscribe so you will see the next video
@@MindofMatter will do! Thanks for that info. Have you tried running the HVAC test in the service menu to see where the faults are?
@@RajPatel-tm2ch No, I didnt even know about that. I will look into it.
@@RajPatel-tm2ch Based on this thread, it seems like it tests to performance of how effective a working HVAC system is....not diagnostics testing on a non-functioning one.
teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/climate-keeper-unavailable-due-to-system-fault.188502/page-3
@@MindofMatter it will actually send out some phantom comm signals and try to indicate faults. Would urge you to try. You’ll get a whole list of pass/fails after it done running. Should take a few minutes
Also have you looked into the 6 service alerts? Should tell you what’s faulting and where the holdup might be.
what error did you have?
I can't remember. If it's not in the video, I think it was "high voltage heating disabled" and "cabin heater malfunction" or something
I f#&€& payed 1200 euros for this ...
I feel for you. I ended up paying $1,200 US for this later because my fix didn't work, if that makes you feel any better
Did all that take 1 hour?
Much longer for me. I forget at this point but more like 3-5 hours since working on this thing was new to me and disconnecting the front high voltage connector was a struggle for me too
@@MindofMatter I got an error of this car might not start again. Took it to tesla. They gave me a quote for 1100 for this new ptc heater dual zone. 550 for part n rest labor. I feel like I'm getting ripped off. What do u think? 2018 M3 AWD 64K miles
@@grouponful When I finished my replacement in this video and it STILL didnt work...I figured the problem was something else so I took it to Tesla to diagnose. They also diagnosed a PTC heater so the used one I bought was bad, apparently. Oh well. I ended up paying $1100 to Tesla to actually fix the problem.
If you can afford it, I would do the $1100 and know that it will work and have some kind of short term warranty period.
If cash is tight, see if you can live with just heated seats and buy a Milwaukee battery-electric heated jacket to get thru the winter.
I'm in chicago so I think I should just pay it😵💫 plus the error said car might not turn back on. I need my car for work. So much went wrong the second the warranty expired! Pcs system. 1500 bucks. Heated seats/ airbag error, 500 bucks. Now this bs error 1100. It's like tesla sent an update after the warranty expired so every few months a new error code that costs 1k would pop up. I love my tesla but now don't even want to deal with it cause 6 months from now another bs error code will pop up
@@grouponful Try this guy on Facebook. He is local and we have gotten together a couple times for diagnosing my heater issue a year ago. Good guy. He just replaced a PTC heater for someone else (his most recent FB post).
"EVolution Mobile"
www.evolutionmobile.net/
Waaaw a lot of work 😢 not easy
Not too hard. Worst part is probably getting the high voltage cable connector disconnected in the front. I don't have a front motor so that helps make it easier but I imagine if you have a front motor that's pretty tough. Everything else is pretty easy just without a call in time consuming. I guess another downside is when you complete the job and test it out only then do you realize if it won't work or not, you can't test it out as soon as you put the new one in because you have to reconnect a bunch of things
Who is in Toronto that fix this ?
J&JW TEAM MILTON
1 hour seems overly optimistic
I think so too in hindsight but not by much for the removal only. Maybe an hour and a half?