The goal is always to save as much of the original paint and decal. Wire brushes I use are quite soft so they don't take away the paint, only the surface rust. I know there are a lot of restoration videos around where they go to bare metal and then repaint the whole thing but that's not really my cup of tea. I personally prefer a helmet with holes and traces of original paint over one with filled holes and a new paintjob. It's history and it needs to be saved as close to it's original state as possible.
@@BaoBao0923 I just got mine in a hardware store, but you need soft ones. The very stiff steel wire brushes are to strong and will remove to much material and damage the paint. Best is a soft steel wire brush which has been used a bit before.
From the title, I didn't see the restoration part of these helmets what I saw was preservation. A lot of effort in removing the built-up rust, good job.
I would like to ask so if you happen to be finding such artifacts via digging, do you do any research on where battles occurred etc because i wouldn’t know what to do if I wanted to find stuff.
The stuff I find digging is much less spectacular then german helmets :D If you want to find good stuff you have to put in the research and even then it's a bit of trial and error to find the exact locations. It's a great hobby but you need patience and a bit of luck.
Sorry, I don't paint my helmets so I would know. But google is your friend, I searched feldgrau paint and come across several sites selling this. Most mention RAL 6006 as colour code.
@@KG-Collection thank you, I’ve searched a little bit on the internet but I still haven’t found anything. I’m too not a great fan of repainting helmets, but I came across one already restored in the incorrect color, as it was double decal apfelgrun like the m35, so I decided to re-restore it in the original way
Salut, je vais essaier en français mais c'est avec beaucoup des fautes... Et oui c'est environ 1 jour si vous voulez nettoyer un casque. 3 fois une demi heur dans l'acide oxalique, environ 1 heure de nettoyage mais ça dépend par la quantité de rouille. Si ce n'est pas beaucoup parfois une demi heur et un peu de nettoyage est suffisant, ça dépend vraiment de l'un casque a l'autre. Ensuite 2 heures dans le bicarbonate en 2 heures sur le feu avec le parafinne dedans.
Hey man, a bit late with commenting, but i just wanna let you know you are doing an awesome job with cleaning and preserving. I hate to clean and preserve iron because its so hard to do. But thanks to youre video's, i have a little more hope. By the way do you live in Frissia the Netherlands? I saw youre comment: "in the place where i live its hard to find stuff like helmets" I live in Frissia but its the same problem here, its even rare to find shellcasings here lol Greetings. Jelle from Frissia the Netherlands
Hi Jelle, thanks it's very nice to hear you find the videos useful. Iron is indeed the most difficult to clean and preserve. And even with the method I use some objects start to rust again after a while. Important to remember with iron relics is that you always have to keep an eye on them, preserving them so they'll stay good forever is nearly impossible. If you ever have some more questions you're welcome to contact me on my facebook page and i'm happy to explain some more. I don't live in Frissia, i'm from Belgium, central region of the country. We don't have a lot of ww2 history here, at least no big battles that happened here so it's very rare to find ww2 stuff here. In ww1 there was some more action so I mainly focus on that when I go digging but even that can be hard. Spent 2,5 hours in the woods today and found absolutely nothing, so it's not like there's stuff everywhere.
@@KG-Collection ah oke, ja hier in friesland het zelfde, soms ga ik vol giede moed naar een locatie en kom dan thuis met lege zakken en veel zooi. Maar dat hoort er ook bij. Soms heb je geluk en vaak gewoon niet. Ik gebruik ook parafine, maar ik heb helaas niks om het in te koken zoals een frituurpan zoals het eigenlijk hoort en het beste werkt. Ik maak het met staalborstels en azijn schoon, en neutraliseer het met gootsteenontstopper en verhit het ijzeren object en smeer dan parafine er op en laat het er dan in koken (zie je allemaal bubbels) dat is heel veel werk en kost veel tijd maar het helpt wel. En inderdaad soms gaan items weer roesten, daar heb ik een vreselijke hekel aan maar ook dat hoort er bij dus dan nog maar een keer herhalen.
@@thestubblestrider1984 Most m16 shells I have seen are real, it's usually the liner pads, chinstrap or paint that is faked. Try to handle a helmet if you buy one, it can be hard to judge it by pictures alone. There's also a Austrian M16, chinstrap rivet is higher up then the German model. And some M16's have been sold to Afgahnistan, they have some holes where a badge was attached.
Been a long time, good to see your still making interesting videos and finding cool stuff.
Very glad you saved the decals and what paint you could. I was worried you were going to wire brush it back down to raw steel.
The goal is always to save as much of the original paint and decal. Wire brushes I use are quite soft so they don't take away the paint, only the surface rust. I know there are a lot of restoration videos around where they go to bare metal and then repaint the whole thing but that's not really my cup of tea. I personally prefer a helmet with holes and traces of original paint over one with filled holes and a new paintjob. It's history and it needs to be saved as close to it's original state as possible.
@@KG-Collectionwhere could I find such wire brushes and if they are a certain type, would you be willing to tell me what type they may be?
@@BaoBao0923 I just got mine in a hardware store, but you need soft ones. The very stiff steel wire brushes are to strong and will remove to much material and damage the paint. Best is a soft steel wire brush which has been used a bit before.
Keep up ur historical cleaning
Will do!
From the title, I didn't see the restoration part of these helmets what I saw was preservation. A lot of effort in removing the built-up rust, good job.
I would like to ask so if you happen to be finding such artifacts via digging, do you do any research on where battles occurred etc because i wouldn’t know what to do if I wanted to find stuff.
The stuff I find digging is much less spectacular then german helmets :D If you want to find good stuff you have to put in the research and even then it's a bit of trial and error to find the exact locations. It's a great hobby but you need patience and a bit of luck.
What’s the correct variation of feldgrau to restore an m40 heer made in quist?
Sorry, I don't paint my helmets so I would know. But google is your friend, I searched feldgrau paint and come across several sites selling this. Most mention RAL 6006 as colour code.
@@KG-Collection thank you, I’ve searched a little bit on the internet but I still haven’t found anything. I’m too not a great fan of repainting helmets, but I came across one already restored in the incorrect color, as it was double decal apfelgrun like the m35, so I decided to re-restore it in the original way
Salut, ça dure combien de temps en tout ? Je pense qu'il faut prévoir la journée non ?
Salut, je vais essaier en français mais c'est avec beaucoup des fautes...
Et oui c'est environ 1 jour si vous voulez nettoyer un casque.
3 fois une demi heur dans l'acide oxalique, environ 1 heure de nettoyage mais ça dépend par la quantité de rouille.
Si ce n'est pas beaucoup parfois une demi heur et un peu de nettoyage est suffisant, ça dépend vraiment de l'un casque a l'autre. Ensuite 2 heures dans le bicarbonate en 2 heures sur le feu avec le parafinne dedans.
@@KG-Collection Merci beaucoup !
Preservation of history, fabulous 👌
Good job,really nice effects!!!
Greetz!
Thanks!
Amazing keep up the good work
Thank you, will do!
Nice job. To you sell?
Good job, man
Why did you destroy the SS decal on one of the helmets? It’s was still visible until you obliterated it😮
Cool I have a relic m16 with a prussian decal
Thx and nice find, never found one with ww1 decals
Hey man, a bit late with commenting, but i just wanna let you know you are doing an awesome job with cleaning and preserving. I hate to clean and preserve iron because its so hard to do. But thanks to youre video's, i have a little more hope.
By the way do you live in Frissia the Netherlands? I saw youre comment: "in the place where i live its hard to find stuff like helmets"
I live in Frissia but its the same problem here, its even rare to find shellcasings here lol
Greetings. Jelle from Frissia the Netherlands
Hi Jelle, thanks it's very nice to hear you find the videos useful. Iron is indeed the most difficult to clean and preserve. And even with the method I use some objects start to rust again after a while. Important to remember with iron relics is that you always have to keep an eye on them, preserving them so they'll stay good forever is nearly impossible. If you ever have some more questions you're welcome to contact me on my facebook page and i'm happy to explain some more.
I don't live in Frissia, i'm from Belgium, central region of the country. We don't have a lot of ww2 history here, at least no big battles that happened here so it's very rare to find ww2 stuff here. In ww1 there was some more action so I mainly focus on that when I go digging but even that can be hard. Spent 2,5 hours in the woods today and found absolutely nothing, so it's not like there's stuff everywhere.
@@KG-Collection ah oke, ja hier in friesland het zelfde, soms ga ik vol giede moed naar een locatie en kom dan thuis met lege zakken en veel zooi. Maar dat hoort er ook bij. Soms heb je geluk en vaak gewoon niet. Ik gebruik ook parafine, maar ik heb helaas niks om het in te koken zoals een frituurpan zoals het eigenlijk hoort en het beste werkt. Ik maak het met staalborstels en azijn schoon, en neutraliseer het met gootsteenontstopper en verhit het ijzeren object en smeer dan parafine er op en laat het er dan in koken (zie je allemaal bubbels) dat is heel veel werk en kost veel tijd maar het helpt wel. En inderdaad soms gaan items weer roesten, daar heb ik een vreselijke hekel aan maar ook dat hoort er bij dus dan nog maar een keer herhalen.
Liked the video!
Thanks!
really cool video greetings from germany berlin ;)
Thanks!
Good!!!
Thx!
Nice I just bought a ww1 German m16 helmet
Thx and congrats on the M16!
Hello I was wondering if you still selling the German ww2 helmets from the German helmet lot video
Cool I have 2 German M16 shells
great content just subscribed have a nice day :)
Glad you like it and thanks for subscribing!
@@KG-Collection im thinking of buying a m1916 stahlhelm ( a shell of one) do you have any tips to tell if they are real? just want to ask thanks :)
@@thestubblestrider1984 Most m16 shells I have seen are real, it's usually the liner pads, chinstrap or paint that is faked. Try to handle a helmet if you buy one, it can be hard to judge it by pictures alone. There's also a Austrian M16, chinstrap rivet is higher up then the German model. And some M16's have been sold to Afgahnistan, they have some holes where a badge was attached.
@@KG-Collection thanks for the advice :)
Kgo, do you dig these up or do you buy them, just curious
Hi, I buy most of the things from the videos, where I live it's really rare to find stuff like helmets. Or I must be digging the wrong places :)
Darth would be proud 😂