Hi just watching one of your random videos which I love pretty much all of them. I know I'm a girl and not expected to be in this field but I made a lot of money just cleaning heads and doing basic repairs. Even though basic repairs seems irrelevant anymore I learn something from everyone of your videos. Thank you
You earned that one for sure! I understand why not many places will work on those AV receivers...what a PITA! Speaking of horrible, nearly-inaccessible arrangements, I figured I'd give a Dell 1300W server SMPS a shot after seeing the new replacement cost of 400+ USD. Like yours repair, the TS was not difficult, but accessing the components was awful. To access the shorted FET and shorted BJT that drives it, I had to remove a large, vertical heat seat that was placed so close to the FETs that there was no room see anything, much less use any tools detach the FET from its own heat sink. Felt like I might destroy the board taking that heat sink out. After the spending about $40.00 on parts only, the item is fixed, but I've since seen $90.00 refurbs and will probably opt for that next time.
Another great repair video! I admire your patience with these audio + video amps, as I have seen too many considered also irreparable as too much time consuming. How can a consumer product of such price levels become such a misconceived, unpleasant to service apparatus? Are these designed to fail in a limited amount of time? If you carefully look at the way the components you changed are submerged by a considerable number of screws, if you look at these components that are very badly implanted, you get the answer: these were never built to last and be repaired! How many electrolytics can be found near heatsinks? I hope these are 105°C, however these components will age very fast. When you compare to much cleaner and accessible design of earlier consumer electronics, there is no comparison. It's far more interesting and qualitative to check a 1970's Denon, Sony, Sansui or Pioneer than to even try to get an idea of where these modern monsters are made. I've recently had to check a AV Denon amp, and after two hours of exhuming cards screws and connectors, had to declare it definitely dead, as two many electrolytics were exploded or near, and everything was covered with that terrible brown goo, so with corrosion and bad solders everywhere! Three hours wasted... In the same time, I had to check a high end Trio Kenwood KT8005 tuner, and feared some kind of super complicated technologies with a 5 gang tuner. But apart from dust, a pair of resistors and dial lamps, everything was fine and quite well tuned. Not even a condenser to change! The quality there is a kind of tank build, with top quality chosen components, a clear and effective modular conception with every test point clearly indicated, even on shieldings, and the modular concept is really accessible from both sides with a real chassis: everything was made to be easily serviceable, fine tuned or amended. This model was the last one built with discrete components stereo demultiplexer, a separate circuit in his own shielding!!! But this 25 lbs + monster was built in 1974! Total time necessary: 2 hours of pure delight.
Just last month, I had a similar blinking red LED on a related older Denon model AVR-1602. The big filter caps were visible as well as the dual full wave bridge rectifiers. So I first looked for (guessing) +40 /- 40 by probing the bridge rectifiers since no obvious tests points were identified. The + voltage was normal, but the - voltage not. Removing the main board was similar to this video and then I checked the -ve 10,000 uf filter cap. It was completely open! The top had a slight swelling on both caps which could have been a clue. In any case, I ordered 2 replacement caps from Digi-key and got them the next day. Replaced and reassembled, all ok now with matching +/- power supplies. The +/- 15 volt regulators were fine. I located the service manual and checked the bias voltage on the 5 channels and all were just fine. job done. Was first time I saw big caps fail and surprised because this was a linear supply, not switching regulator.
Repeating: Just last month, I had a similar blinking red LED on a related older Denon model AVR-1602. The big filter caps were visible as well as the dual full wave bridge rectifiers. So I first looked for (guessing) +40 /- 40 by probing the bridge rectifiers since no obvious tests points were identified. The + voltage was normal, but the - voltage not. Removing the main board was similar to this video and then I checked the -ve 10,000 uf filter cap. It was completely open! The top had a slight swelling on both caps which could have been a clue. In any case, I ordered 2 replacement caps and got them the next day. Replaced and reassembled, all ok now with matching +/- power supplies. The +/- 15 volt regulators were fine. I located the service manual and checked the bias voltage on the 5 channels and all were just fine. job done. Was first time I saw big caps fail and surprised because this was a linear supply, not switching regulator.
As I remember it Denon stopped working just after the one year warranty ran out. Think I checked around and as you said no one would work on it. Bought a Sony for less and it's been trouble free for maybe ten years. Kept the Denon (but sure af won't buy another). It's laid out a bit different and looks easier but yeah no removing a bottom cover for example. Will be checking the part you replaced. Thanks for sharing.
I have a Denon 1908 and the centre channel used to cut out, on some occasions the unit would screech! It fixed it temporarily if you wiggled the inputs, I was Not looking forward to stripping it down! By chance I checked the speaker connections and the centre one had a single strand of wire touching against the main body! That was the cause of months of hair pulling! I placed banana / Bantam plugs onto the ends and it's been fine ever since! Great clip as always - delving where few dare to tread!
The side line business is actually making these videos. The money I make from the repair is just icing on the cake. I make much more over time from the views. The video I did a few years ago about the GM security key relearn has made more than the car cost and it keeps making money every month. Quanatity is everything. With 1400 plus videos and counting they all add up.
Yes! I watched part 1 the other day. It's good to see all parts. I missed the part where you confirmed the new regulator was going to work. It would have sucked to put it all together and the new regulator was bad. $120? Seems very reasonable to me for the amount of labor. Your title should be "master of the impossible".
I don't accept to work on these units because I don't have a RUclips account to cover the costs. So I usually charge 120$ only to pop the cover. The repairs itself are often more expensive than the price of the unit new so people decline. I warned a guy that it will be expensive and he said to repair it anyway, but when he came back and I asked him 600$ for the repair, he refused to pay. So I usually ask for a deposit of 500$ at least.
Thanks for sharing. Yeah those new devices are a pain to fix. BTW, seeing you struggle a little with a desoldering hand pump made me realize how much I enjoy my desoldering gun... S993A from China. It's not quite a Hakko FR301, but it doesn't cost an arm and a leg for such a simple and really useful tool. Nothing like a Chinese tool to fix Chinese electronics. lol ! (nice cat ;-)
I picked up one of these Denon AVs, not this model, at a tag sale for $40. I am still using it so that was a good deal. I had previously gotten an older model for $20. That developed an intermittent no power problem which disappeared when I attempted to find it. That one is now collecting dust til I decide to see if I can make it fail permanently so I can find the problem. I hate intermittent problems. They are the reason some things are deemed un-repairable.
Yeah, those are the issues that cause these annoying problems. I try to remember that but occasionally i need to be reminded. The problem bit is when it starts working again and you aren't sure if you fixed it or the failing connection is just temporarily working.
Do you experienced technicians who are sought after now that cheaper mass produced stuff will go to landfill use a resistor or something to short the big caps before that big bad bang ? Or if they drain out , how long before you need an ambulance re-shock ?
Actually we are not sought after. Nobody wants to pay much to fix anything. Simple repairs or off to the dump it goes. Why do you think everyone has left the business?
MMMM I was hoping that your huge country might offer more opportunities in a niche market where only you guys can fix old anything .Say for eg a Marshall guitar tube amplifier or anything of antiquity that's precious . Just put a free add in google for you know better than me to test the market ? Maybe progress can keep your precious skills alive @@12voltvids
stuff like this ( modern tech) is ment to be throw away buy another, pretty darn sad really. I prefer to keep using service my old technology like timex it takes a linkin keep on ticking long as you take care of it, It take care of you :)
Great vids, thanks for sharing. Treat yourself to a cheap de-soldering gun, great for poor quality PCB's (especially multilayer). Wish I'd got one sooner.
Smashing job dave, i was happy to get the screws back in mine and send it back to it's owner, i had enough of that unit lol. That job made other amplifiers look like a walk in the park, with ice cream and a cherry :-D. My old Pioneer sa706 amp has a trap door, sooo handy :-D
Very nice video, I have AVR-488 and I get no sound from the left side. I factory reset the system but no sound from one side, do you think it may be the regulator got be changed? They get very hot. Thanks
My new Denon X6700 has the red light of death now. It had a humming transformer so I sent it in for repairs. Got it back after 6 weeks and after working fine for one day it turned itself off and flashed the red light. It will run for a few minutes, then break down...so I guess it's going back for another repair. Let's see what they break this time...😬
I use a Logitech 5 channel surround system for my home theater. The amplifier is built into the subwoofer and the inputs and switching is a seperate unit. That seems the way to go as far as ease of service goes. The switching and input unit is small and could easily be replaced as a unit. I haven't dug into the sub amp but so far there hasn't been a need to in almost 10 years of service. The complexity of these multi function units is insane. I will stick to my simple system.
Wouldn't happen to be a Z-5500 system? I have one for about the same amount of time. I don't use it much any more, but it still works well. When I used it for home theater, I noticed the control pod would power itself off once in a while when playing surround audio from my Bell Receiver.. chalked it up to some kind of compatibility issue. Never had any issue just using a PC as source.
A labour of love, and an opertunity to curse the poor design of these modern receivers from a servicing angle. I left the Hi-Fi repair business in the early 80's to go and earn a decent wage repairing avionic gear for the Royal Air Force. As soon as they knew my backround, they put me on all the amplifiers, tape recorders etc so back to square one, but the wage was far better, and no difficult customers to deal with. Now i am retired and back to cursing this sort of gear, it puts the day in, and if i am lucky provides a small extra income.
I know the feeling, I curse this for 20 years making a living wage I might add fixing this crap. By 2000 the writing was on the wall and it was time to get out and go to work in another industry. I picked the phone company which has been for the past number of years in a high growth market with the rollout of high-speed and now fiber optics it has kept us hopping for the last number of years. But the only reason I got back into the electronics side of things was so that I could create content for RUclips and that's where I make the money not on the actual repair. I lose money almost considering the time that is spent and what people are prepared to pay so it's more of just a hobby but it's made up for in the residuals from the RUclips advertising.
@@12voltvids RUclips seems to be the modern way of making some extra income. As you say, if you charged an hourly rate most customers would refuse or never come back I am lucky that i bought a job lot of spare parts when the local Hi-Fi repair shop closed, all i have to do is top up the common ones or buy any special parts when needed. It keeps our minds active, and better than watching the repeats on TV.
i have a denon avr 887 it was working well... the one day wanted to watch a movie and no sound... i move the volume and it wont move... or will move nad no sound...not even a hiss.... if i change source it wont move the volume at all... what could it be? i ordered a multimeter... but its not like i know how to use it...
Love your vids! I have the same hyper tough screwdriver, but red and w/o the bit holder, still use it for everything. What is that you have taped on the bit there?
Hi Dave, The amount of desoldering you do why dont you get a half good desoldering gun i think a reasonable one is around $100- $150. I an thinking of getting one especially for via's especially where the via is part of a ground plane etc, my iron (desoldering station) aint got enough mass even at 450c. Paul.
Have you ever had a turntable crackle on 180g vinyl but not on lighter records? I have this on my dual cs 505 I have changed the stylus for a new one so it's not that. The record is also brand new. The tracking force is also reset and the pickup is setup from the factory. (Previous stylus was the original one). The new stylus came with a pickup should I change it over?
Can't believe such a poor design... zillions of screws just to disassemble this thing and no possibility of testing anything ! It's also fortunate that it wasn't the other regulator the faulty one... you'd had to take out the big capacitor in front of it only to take out its tab screw. Hats off to your patience, experience and skills, sir.
Isn’t that the truth! I have two units, a Harman/Kardon 730 receiver and a Harman/Kardon A-402 amplifier/preamp, both with the twin power supply designs and they are so sweet and modular! So simple to work on and wow, what great sound!
We have seen many many of Denon receivers have same problem after a few years , they design that way so they can sell more to consumer ! best way is just stay away from they stuffs until they change their ways of doing business ! sending them a message everyone !
But nice 'big' heat sink on this Denon and most things on one big board. I'm fighting with Pioneer VSX1015 with MOSFET out tranies - doesn't power ON after we had blackout last year and power was cycled on Ottawa Hydro lines. The display went first so most likely some regulators, unless the logic chip is gone. Things are all over the place on Pioneer with a lot of the wire strips connecting the modules - very bad layout, a tech nightmare.
If you don't like the hassle of working on that Denon, don't take on any jobs with a Marantz SR7001. It's a taller case and packed right to the top with boards and interconnecting wires. You can't even see the bottom board, or test anything until removing at least 5 boards. B&K Components receivers (higher end US made) are probably the easiest receivers to repair. The power supply is right at the top front with all voltage regulators in a row and color coded to match the color coded schematics. Even the wire groups going to the main board are color coded to each voltage regular and have big beefy connectors for easy disassemble. The amplifier heatsinks are on each side and only 3 screws need to be removed from the bottom to lay the amp boards on the bench. The analog section stands vertically on the main (digital) and can be pulled out in 1 second. The mass market companies could learn a lot from B&Ks well thought out and modular design. I repaired a bunch of these receivers when I was just starting to learn about electronics. They are built like a tank and weight 55 lbs. They are actually worth fixing too because they sound great and have a ton of high current power. Unlike new mass market receivers which are tested at one channel driven to 10% distortion, B&Ks can deliver 150W/ch all 7 channels driven and at only 0.09% distortion. Rather than the typical cheating and taking distortion measurements at 1 watt. The cheapest one I bought was $35 and retail 15-20 years ago was over $6000 CAD. It cost me $2 for a 5V regulator to repair. In fact, all (about 15) B&Ks I fixed only had minor faults in the power supply (regulator of capacitor), which were cheap and quick fixes. I
Hi. I've a denon avr 1706 and the power board looks identical to this 2307. Mine stopped working with no sound. The outputs are not shorted and have abt 51v at the collector. But no voltage on the emitter.The 15v and the 5v regulators are fine.What could be the problem?Btw,it's not going into protection and speaker relay is clicking. Just no sound output. Can you help?
+Stallion63 M - Sounds like your output transistors are fine. If the protection relay is closing that tends to clear the output stages of any fault. Your problem lies further back in the signal chain. Unfortunately that means it's service manual and signal tracing time with a scope. Not a job for the inexperienced.
I desing resevers an this is a bad dising. My desings have everything on separate boards. The mains power supply. And the stand by power supply are on separate boards. The power amps are on there own board. The secentdarry power supply is on its own board. The op amp power supply an logic power supplys are on a board. The audio outputs and speaker protection is on its own board. As are all the logic boards. Everything is mounted onto a internal fraim that's mounted onto a Heng so after you remove a few screws from the back side an unplug the power transformer all the internals just pivet up for servesing.
@@12voltvids Ok. Was wondering if a failed cap in the speaker crossover could've caused it. Like it did on my Denon AVC A1 amp which went into protect with blinking red light and would'nt turn on.😥
@@stallion63m35 Nope. Failed cap on crossover will result in either no treble or a blown tweeter. Shorted speaker wire could blow the outputs. This was one of the low voltage regulators in the preamp circuit.
The ONLY problem I have when using a solder sucker, is the tip getting plugged. Other than that technique and practice makes it useful solution for me.
The tips always get plugged. I loose patience with things that waste my time. Wick works for me and that is why I use it. I have both a squeeze bulb and this sucker and I dislike both as they are time wasters.
I usually accept to repair them but the cost is often more of these junk costs new so people refuse. The shop were I live are scarce and people have to drive few hours to get to them. At the of the day, I let the consumer decide if they want a repaired 10 years old unit for 1000$ for the repair plus the original cost or a new unit for 1200$. Never had anyone choosing the repair.
I’m sure that consumer electronics manufacturers don’t consider ease of maintenance because in their eyes they make as perfect a product as possible that will never need maintenance. Plus they want you to buy a new product as soon as possible to continue their profit stream.🤨🤨
No sure about the angst over the construction. Yes it's mindless but the harder a job the more satisfying it feels at the end. I can see why the shops won't touch them but if the customer is willing to pay for the time where's the problem?
The problem i see with these is when there is more to disassemble and reassemble, the greater the chance of incidental damage. a simple removable panel on the bottom goes a long way.
Satisfying? I think not. A satisfying job is one that can be done relatively quickly without spending more time disassembling and reassembling the unit. And 9 times out of 10 the customer is not willing to spend a small fortune on these units because the new one does more and cost less.
I think my days are numbered with AV . I only use 2 channel stereo . The second hand shops in the UK are selling these without remote for £20 . Return to the Class A I think , 9 channel is a bit of a gimmick with the DSP
F... multi channel junk. Fixed my friends Parasound - 20 something year old HCA - Jfet in, 3pairs of Sankens out. Very nice sounding amp, that eat all the AVR junks for breakfast. I think of building some 2ch amps - I have cases, transformers and other parts left over from scrap pile of receivers. I'm mostly 2ch audio guy but I use multi for bi amping and DSP crossovers.
@@12voltvids Dave I do not give a toss about them , I have commented on those Audiophile channels , I will just turn them inside out , Sound engineering is my hobby , not HYPE . Little do they know that the surround is compress and only a bit of fun untill it brakes . I have a good sound here and we never stop learning , unlike some .
@@shaun9107 Of course it's, ac3 and all those other multi channel sound systems use compressed sound. Give me a good cd player a tube amp and a pair of big speakers any day for modern recordings and an old thrones table into a tube amp and big speakers for the stuff recorded when vinyl was the only game.
@@12voltvids I never used valves . I am all records & tapes , everything is Digital now but when its recorded on tape it just ads a touch of warmth to it , the other haters just throw a load of dumb numbers at you to argue , well numbers are not the result of Performance . Its the forced edge of hard Digital that stands out to me . It keeps me busy a bit with this 14 band Equalizer with some of these new records that we use now , it certainly pays off with using one here with this lot . As you can tell , I am no Audiophile . I am not sure if valve amps are for this rig , I just wana turn it up a bit more . Like to feel the Power
that circuit board looks a little toasty in that area. to bad engineers didnt think about putting an access panel on the bottom. I guess they saved a couple dollars. and no panel means they'll screw you on any repairs, no pun intended.
you are probably right on the swap, and main amp being disposable. back in the day they did repair YOUR unit and send it back. personally i never send stuff in for warranty repairs. Usually if i cant fix it, it cant be fixed. it just might take a couple months to get to repairing it though. lol
yea i never trust the "refurbished" stuff. we used to have a repair shop locally but it closed about 20 yrs ago. and since radio shack closed too i cant buy parts/components close. Though Ive found mouser is a pretty good place to buy stuff, decent prices and fast shipping. I dont do a lot of repairs, but it seems I am always working on something. Im sure if i advertised i could stay very busy full time.
@@xeroinfinity Mouser is a bloody rip off in Canada. I ordered a small universal single ended 15 watt audio output transformer from them. Transformer was a hammond, made in Canada. Should have been about 30 bucks but with exchange and their flat rate shipping to Canada it came to over 100.00 for a transformer that had main electronics still been in business would have been probably under 20 bucks. I miss main electronics. They were the best place to find just about any part but the owner just had to die! Dam that sucked for all of us. His sons didn't want to keep the business running so they closed the doors :(
@12voltvids After reading this Dave, I was wondering if you have used Digi-Key very much, I figure you have. I started using them within the last year and I’ve hardly paid at all for shipping. Now I haven’t gotten anything real heavy but usually when shipping comes up, I got to the select shipping page and pick usps ground or whatever is cheapest. I’m in Florida and it normally is only three or four days and so far I haven’t spent more than five bucks for shipping yet. BUT, I know when you have to shop to Canada, things can change.
@@budandbean1 as soon as you put in Canada then outrageous shipping charges happen. Or they ship it fed ex or UPS and then a 37.50 broker charge arrives a few weeks later. That happened a few years ago and I mentioned I would gladly pass those fees on to the client and a the RUclips trolls went crazy and called me scum of the Earth and that I should eat the costs. Sorry but that is not how business works. Same when couriers started adding fuel surcharges on everything. Those costs get passed on.
Wow, if this isn't even the worst case, I don't wanna know how bad the others are! Well, I don't understand this multichannel stuff anyway. The average human has 2 ears. And the direction stuff comes from those two ears, there's no magic involved. You can get the same sensation when you mix your audio correctly to two channels correctly on playback, depending on your room and speaker positions. Much more efficient and cheaper.
You did something wrong Dave, there aren't any extra screws leftover. LOL!!!! I will never put all of the screws & or bolts back into appliances because the majority were always just for shipping & you can tell that when you look at them. I always liked to do that to a customer to make them think, OH NO, somethings gonna fall apart, then I'd explain there just shipping screws & bolts, all they were for. You'd see a sigh of relief from them. LOL!!!
+A Three Dog Night - Reminds me of a Three Stooges ep where they were auto mechanics and saw a customer drive off in their "repaired" car, leaving a trail of parts behind it.
What a butcher. No failure diagnostics, poor soldering, poor desoldering and never even bothered testing dc offsets and idling currents of output stage. No thermal checks etc and no checks on rail leakages etc. Something caused original regulator breakdown!! I wouldn't take my kit to this guy.
Like the shop where I worked never saw anyone do it either and I was just learning at the time. I don't recall any amps coming back but I guess we were lucky.
Great repair. We all do things differently,I would have removed / replaced both regulators by removing the heat sink and not having to worry about getting the regulator screws back in at such an awkward angle. No though about easy servicing in that design.
No problem! I want to ask you a question. I bought a Behringer EP4000 Europower Power Amplifier on eBay & in the description it said Does not work, goes into protection mode. I have checked the fuse in both channels & they are fine. I think it's the Mosfet's that are blown. I'm sure you have dealt with this problem before.
+Dave Smith - I use old prescription bottles to stash screws when I work on something that's not going back together immediately. Since most units use different screws in different places I'll put them in individual containers and stick a little note inside so I'll know where they go when it is time to put it all together. Don't like to trust memory with everything else going on around me.
@@Inflec Same here. If something isn't going back together right away the screws go in a container, but usually I just reassemble the unit and take it apart again when the screws come in.
Hi just watching one of your random videos which I love pretty much all of them. I know I'm a girl and not expected to be in this field but I made a lot of money just cleaning heads and doing basic repairs. Even though basic repairs seems irrelevant anymore I learn something from everyone of your videos. Thank you
DONT LET ANY BODY TELL YOU THAT YOU CANT. IN MY SHOP THERE IS A SIGN THAT SAYS "CANT NEVER DID ANYTHING"
You earned that one for sure! I understand why not many places will work on those AV receivers...what a PITA! Speaking of horrible, nearly-inaccessible arrangements, I figured I'd give a Dell 1300W server SMPS a shot after seeing the new replacement cost of 400+ USD. Like yours repair, the TS was not difficult, but accessing the components was awful. To access the shorted FET and shorted BJT that drives it, I had to remove a large, vertical heat seat that was placed so close to the FETs that there was no room see anything, much less use any tools detach the FET from its own heat sink. Felt like I might destroy the board taking that heat sink out. After the spending about $40.00 on parts only, the item is fixed, but I've since seen $90.00 refurbs and will probably opt for that next time.
very complicated design for servicing but your patience and perseverance wins! salut to you SIR
They intentionally do it for sale more of their stuffs ! stay away ...choose other brands instead !
Another great repair video!
I admire your patience with these audio + video amps, as I have seen too many considered also irreparable as too much time consuming. How can a consumer product of such price levels become such a misconceived, unpleasant to service apparatus? Are these designed to fail in a limited amount of time?
If you carefully look at the way the components you changed are submerged by a considerable number of screws, if you look at these components that are very badly implanted, you get the answer: these were never built to last and be repaired!
How many electrolytics can be found near heatsinks? I hope these are 105°C, however these components will age very fast.
When you compare to much cleaner and accessible design of earlier consumer electronics, there is no comparison. It's far more interesting and qualitative to check a 1970's Denon, Sony, Sansui or Pioneer than to even try to get an idea of where these modern monsters are made. I've recently had to check a AV Denon amp, and after two hours of exhuming cards screws and connectors, had to declare it definitely dead, as two many electrolytics were exploded or near, and everything was covered with that terrible brown goo, so with corrosion and bad solders everywhere! Three hours wasted...
In the same time, I had to check a high end Trio Kenwood KT8005 tuner, and feared some kind of super complicated technologies with a 5 gang tuner. But apart from dust, a pair of resistors and dial lamps, everything was fine and quite well tuned. Not even a condenser to change! The quality there is a kind of tank build, with top quality chosen components, a clear and effective modular conception with every test point clearly indicated, even on shieldings, and the modular concept is really accessible from both sides with a real chassis: everything was made to be easily serviceable, fine tuned or amended. This model was the last one built with discrete components stereo demultiplexer, a separate circuit in his own shielding!!! But this 25 lbs + monster was built in 1974! Total time necessary: 2 hours of pure delight.
Stiff breaks, throw it away buy a new one.
Just last month, I had a similar blinking red LED on a related older Denon model AVR-1602. The big filter caps were visible as well as the dual full wave bridge rectifiers. So I first looked for (guessing) +40 /- 40 by probing the bridge rectifiers since no obvious tests points were identified. The + voltage was normal, but the - voltage not. Removing the main board was similar to this video and then I checked the -ve 10,000 uf filter cap. It was completely open! The top had a slight swelling on both caps which could have been a clue. In any case, I ordered 2 replacement caps from Digi-key and got them the next day. Replaced and reassembled, all ok now with matching +/- power supplies. The +/- 15 volt regulators were fine. I located the service manual and checked the bias voltage on the 5 channels and all were just fine. job done. Was first time I saw big caps fail and surprised because this was a linear supply, not switching regulator.
Repeating: Just last month, I had a similar blinking red LED on a related older Denon model AVR-1602. The big filter caps were visible as well as the dual full wave bridge rectifiers. So I first looked for (guessing) +40 /- 40 by probing the bridge rectifiers since no obvious tests points were identified. The + voltage was normal, but the - voltage not. Removing the main board was similar to this video and then I checked the -ve 10,000 uf filter cap. It was completely open! The top had a slight swelling on both caps which could have been a clue. In any case, I ordered 2 replacement caps and got them the next day. Replaced and reassembled, all ok now with matching +/- power supplies. The +/- 15 volt regulators were fine. I located the service manual and checked the bias voltage on the 5 channels and all were just fine. job done. Was first time I saw big caps fail and surprised because this was a linear supply, not switching regulator.
As I remember it Denon stopped working just after the one year warranty ran out. Think I checked around and as you said no one would work on it. Bought a Sony for less and it's been trouble free for maybe ten years. Kept the Denon (but sure af won't buy another). It's laid out a bit different and looks easier but yeah no removing a bottom cover for example. Will be checking the part you replaced. Thanks for sharing.
I have a Denon 1908 and the centre channel used to cut out, on some occasions the unit would screech! It fixed it temporarily if you wiggled the inputs, I was Not looking forward to stripping it down! By chance I checked the speaker connections and the centre one had a single strand of wire touching against the main body! That was the cause of months of hair pulling! I placed banana / Bantam plugs onto the ends and it's been fine ever since! Great clip as always - delving where few dare to tread!
Cotton swab deoxit and clean the connectors so they are shiny
Your sideline business is the be your own boss business, which I'm sure you'd prefer to keep it that way, and the videos are fun to watch as well!
The side line business is actually making these videos. The money I make from the repair is just icing on the cake. I make much more over time from the views. The video I did a few years ago about the GM security key relearn has made more than the car cost and it keeps making money every month. Quanatity is everything. With 1400 plus videos and counting they all add up.
@@12voltvidsplus I learn from them as well is a plus. You taught me a lot
Yes! I watched part 1 the other day. It's good to see all parts.
I missed the part where you confirmed the new regulator was going to work. It would have sucked to put it all together and the new regulator was bad.
$120? Seems very reasonable to me for the amount of labor.
Your title should be "master of the impossible".
I don't accept to work on these units because I don't have a RUclips account to cover the costs. So I usually charge 120$ only to pop the cover. The repairs itself are often more expensive than the price of the unit new so people decline. I warned a guy that it will be expensive and he said to repair it anyway, but when he came back and I asked him 600$ for the repair, he refused to pay. So I usually ask for a deposit of 500$ at least.
Customer got a deal! Great diagnosis and repair. Nice unit.
Thanks for sharing. Yeah those new devices are a pain to fix. BTW, seeing you struggle a little with a desoldering hand pump made me realize how much I enjoy my desoldering gun... S993A from China. It's not quite a Hakko FR301, but it doesn't cost an arm and a leg for such a simple and really useful tool. Nothing like a Chinese tool to fix Chinese electronics. lol ! (nice cat ;-)
I love your videos because a lot of your discussion
Encore bravo pour cette réparation, le monstre n'est pas facile à réparer.
this year again the first prize for perseverance
You have a Fan in India !!!
I picked up one of these Denon AVs, not this model, at a tag sale for $40. I am still using it so that was a good deal. I had previously gotten an older model for $20. That developed an intermittent no power problem which disappeared when I attempted to find it. That one is now collecting dust til I decide to see if I can make it fail permanently so I can find the problem. I hate intermittent problems. They are the reason some things are deemed un-repairable.
Yeah, those are the issues that cause these annoying problems. I try to remember that but occasionally i need to be reminded. The problem bit is when it starts working again and you aren't sure if you fixed it or the failing connection is just temporarily working.
Do you experienced technicians who are sought after now that cheaper mass produced stuff will go to landfill use a resistor or something to short the big caps before that big bad bang ? Or if they drain out , how long before you need an ambulance re-shock ?
Actually we are not sought after. Nobody wants to pay much to fix anything. Simple repairs or off to the dump it goes. Why do you think everyone has left the business?
MMMM I was hoping that your huge country might offer more opportunities in a niche market where only you guys can fix old anything .Say for eg a Marshall guitar tube amplifier or anything of antiquity that's precious . Just put a free add in google for you know better than me to test the market ? Maybe progress can keep your precious skills alive @@12voltvids
stuff like this ( modern tech) is ment to be throw away buy another, pretty darn sad really. I prefer to keep using service my old technology like timex it takes a linkin keep on ticking
long as you take care of it, It take care of you :)
Great vids, thanks for sharing. Treat yourself to a cheap de-soldering gun, great for poor quality PCB's (especially multilayer). Wish I'd got one sooner.
Smashing job dave, i was happy to get the screws back in mine and send it back to it's owner, i had enough of that unit lol.
That job made other amplifiers look like a walk in the park, with ice cream and a cherry :-D.
My old Pioneer sa706 amp has a trap door, sooo handy :-D
Very nice video, I have AVR-488 and I get no sound from the left side. I factory reset the system but no sound from one side, do you think it may be the regulator got be changed? They get very hot. Thanks
You are simply amazing!!!
The sounds that makes as you disassemble and reassemble it sound about like working on a heat pump to me LOL.
I got a 1708 that just died tonight... I will check that regulator. Lucky for me the power board is isolated from the rest of the unit.
We will love to see you go over that Harman Kardon !
My new Denon X6700 has the red light of death now. It had a humming transformer so I sent it in for repairs. Got it back after 6 weeks and after working fine for one day it turned itself off and flashed the red light. It will run for a few minutes, then break down...so I guess it's going back for another repair. Let's see what they break this time...😬
Spent for that much of money to this peace of equipment and all the headaches , time to move on to another brand and never look back .
Sometimes you'll get a good run with a solder pump, but wick never fails, especially on lead free.
CONGRATULATION, YOU ARE THE BEST
I have a Denon AVR X-1400H and I have the red standby light flashes. Can you tell me if it's the same issue or other. Thanks
I use a Logitech 5 channel surround system for my home theater. The amplifier is built into the subwoofer and the inputs and switching is a seperate unit. That seems the way to go as far as ease of service goes. The switching and input unit is small and could easily be replaced as a unit. I haven't dug into the sub amp but so far there hasn't been a need to in almost 10 years of service. The complexity of these multi function units is insane. I will stick to my simple system.
Wouldn't happen to be a Z-5500 system? I have one for about the same amount of time. I don't use it much any more, but it still works well. When I used it for home theater, I noticed the control pod would power itself off once in a while when playing surround audio from my Bell Receiver.. chalked it up to some kind of compatibility issue. Never had any issue just using a PC as source.
A labour of love, and an opertunity to curse the poor design of these modern receivers
from a servicing angle.
I left the Hi-Fi repair business in the early 80's to go and earn a decent wage repairing
avionic gear for the Royal Air Force.
As soon as they knew my backround, they put me on all the amplifiers, tape recorders etc
so back to square one, but the wage was far better, and no difficult customers to deal with.
Now i am retired and back to cursing this sort of gear, it puts the day in, and if i am lucky
provides a small extra income.
I know the feeling, I curse this for 20 years making a living wage I might add fixing this crap. By 2000 the writing was on the wall and it was time to get out and go to work in another industry. I picked the phone company which has been for the past number of years in a high growth market with the rollout of high-speed and now fiber optics it has kept us hopping for the last number of years. But the only reason I got back into the electronics side of things was so that I could create content for RUclips and that's where I make the money not on the actual repair. I lose money almost considering the time that is spent and what people are prepared to pay so it's more of just a hobby but it's made up for in the residuals from the RUclips advertising.
@@12voltvids RUclips seems to be the modern way of making some extra income.
As you say, if you charged an hourly rate most customers would refuse or never come back
I am lucky that i bought a job lot of spare parts when the local Hi-Fi repair shop closed, all i have to do is top up the common ones or buy any special parts when needed.
It keeps our minds active, and better than watching the repeats on TV.
This boards is like a sheet of paper
Miss the nippon columbia days
i have a denon avr 887 it was working well... the one day wanted to watch a movie and no sound... i move the volume and it wont move... or will move nad no sound...not even a hiss.... if i change source it wont move the volume at all... what could it be? i ordered a multimeter... but its not like i know how to use it...
Do you have a video on an ONKYO amplifier repair? Please upload one. Thank you.
The board bent around 7:00 is pretty scary! o_O
That's nothing. They can handle much more than that. Nothing to worry about
Bend them even more because I had to. Most of the receivers are shitty audio components this days anyway.
Love your vids! I have the same hyper tough screwdriver, but red and w/o the bit holder, still use it for everything. What is that you have taped on the bit there?
It's a magnet.
Any theories as to what popped the -15V regulator? Related to any of the corrosion you were cleaning off in video #1?
Hi Dave, The amount of desoldering you do why dont you get a half good desoldering gun i think a reasonable one is around $100- $150. I an thinking of getting one especially for via's especially where the via is part of a ground plane etc, my iron (desoldering station) aint got enough mass even at 450c. Paul.
I don't do that much.
Have you ever had a turntable crackle on 180g vinyl but not on lighter records? I have this on my dual cs 505 I have changed the stylus for a new one so it's not that. The record is also brand new. The tracking force is also reset and the pickup is setup from the factory. (Previous stylus was the original one). The new stylus came with a pickup should I change it over?
I only own 1 180 gram disk, and it is a mobile fedility audiophool disc. The rest are all old as the hills some older than I am.
Perfect! Thanks again for the footages
Can't believe such a poor design... zillions of screws just to disassemble this thing and no possibility of testing anything ! It's also fortunate that it wasn't the other regulator the faulty one... you'd had to take out the big capacitor in front of it only to take out its tab screw. Hats off to your patience, experience and skills, sir.
One happy chappy awaiting 👍
Good work, but spot what's wrong at 6:59. That's a phenolic board. They easily break.
I have the same power issue with my 3 yr old AVR-X3300W. Do you know where I could getit fixed? Thanks
Hello friend, I have a problem with my Denon 864, it turns on, but the relays don't arm, and the display doesn't turn on, could you help me?
I miss the days of the harmen carden dual drive.
Isn’t that the truth! I have two units, a Harman/Kardon 730 receiver and a Harman/Kardon A-402 amplifier/preamp, both with the twin power supply designs and they are so sweet and modular! So simple to work on and wow, what great sound!
Well done. I like challanges
Always good job Thank you for shearing:
Hi I have a av denon receiver that has a flashing red light of death, I wonder if you can help me fix it, thanks.
Looks great.
I use a rubber bulb. Just squeeze and let out. Yes I have to take the nozzle to empty it but never had any issues.
We have seen many many of Denon receivers have same problem after a few years , they design that way so they can sell more to consumer ! best way is just stay away from they stuffs until they change their ways of doing business ! sending them a message everyone !
Sir gud day what of electronic store buy your electronic parts original
Original? Sorry no access to original parts. I deal with the local suppliers for whatever crap they have available.
A nightmare I bet you are glad to see the back of it
But nice 'big' heat sink on this Denon and most things on one big board. I'm fighting with Pioneer VSX1015 with MOSFET out tranies - doesn't power ON after we had blackout last year and power was cycled on Ottawa Hydro lines. The display went first so most likely some regulators, unless the logic chip is gone. Things are all over the place on Pioneer with a lot of the wire strips connecting the modules - very bad layout, a tech nightmare.
grat page an videos..a question..how money price for this work..???
I believe I charged about 70 for this one.
im new here,im from brazil,good job.
Good work sr
As soon as i plugged speaker the amp denon avr 1909 hdmi board cmos ic got blown what could possibly the issue
It didn't seem to play very loudly. You had it cranked all the way up at the end. I've never had any of my receivers even into the positive numbers.
It goes loud. Only goes to 0db on camera and no louder. ALC in camera.
@My Name LOL
well done man ...
If you don't like the hassle of working on that Denon, don't take on any jobs with a Marantz SR7001. It's a taller case and packed right to the top with boards and interconnecting wires. You can't even see the bottom board, or test anything until removing at least 5 boards. B&K Components receivers (higher end US made) are probably the easiest receivers to repair. The power supply is right at the top front with all voltage regulators in a row and color coded to match the color coded schematics. Even the wire groups going to the main board are color coded to each voltage regular and have big beefy connectors for easy disassemble. The amplifier heatsinks are on each side and only 3 screws need to be removed from the bottom to lay the amp boards on the bench. The analog section stands vertically on the main (digital) and can be pulled out in 1 second.
The mass market companies could learn a lot from B&Ks well thought out and modular design. I repaired a bunch of these receivers when I was just starting to learn about electronics. They are built like a tank and weight 55 lbs. They are actually worth fixing too because they sound great and have a ton of high current power. Unlike new mass market receivers which are tested at one channel driven to 10% distortion, B&Ks can deliver 150W/ch all 7 channels driven and at only 0.09% distortion. Rather than the typical cheating and taking distortion measurements at 1 watt. The cheapest one I bought was $35 and retail 15-20 years ago was over $6000 CAD. It cost me $2 for a 5V regulator to repair. In fact, all (about 15) B&Ks I fixed only had minor faults in the power supply (regulator of capacitor), which were cheap and quick fixes.
I
I turn these away regularly. People pull fast ones on me from time to time and ship me stuff i don't generally work on.
Hi. I've a denon avr 1706 and the power board looks identical to this 2307. Mine stopped working with no sound. The outputs are not shorted and have abt 51v at the collector. But no voltage on the emitter.The 15v and the 5v regulators are fine.What could be the problem?Btw,it's not going into protection and speaker relay is clicking. Just no sound output. Can you help?
I have no idea.
@@12voltvids Oh... Not even a clue?
@@stallion63m35
Nope. Don't have the foggiest.
+Stallion63 M - Sounds like your output transistors are fine. If the protection relay is closing that tends to clear the output stages of any fault. Your problem lies further back in the signal chain. Unfortunately that means it's service manual and signal tracing time with a scope. Not a job for the inexperienced.
@@Inflec Hi tks! Guessed as much. Suspect the input ic board problem as Mark pointed out.
Why did'nt you just use the solder wick?
Why waste it?
Focus!! Too cool. So many of these videos play absolute JUNK I can't watch them.
I desing resevers an this is a bad dising. My desings have everything on separate boards. The mains power supply. And the stand by power supply are on separate boards. The power amps are on there own board. The secentdarry power supply is on its own board. The op amp power supply an logic power supplys are on a board. The audio outputs and speaker protection is on its own board. As are all the logic boards. Everything is mounted onto a internal fraim that's mounted onto a Heng so after you remove a few screws from the back side an unplug the power transformer all the internals just pivet up for servesing.
Whats that? thats attached to the cordless drill?
What
Awesome.
22:19 - > Denon males its own circuit boards? I remember some brands took components from third parties.
Hi. Have you figured out what could've caused the regulator to fail?
Nope. Don't care. ITV failed I replaced it and sent it on its way.
@@12voltvids
Ok. Was wondering if a failed cap in the speaker crossover could've caused it. Like it did on my Denon AVC A1 amp which went into protect with blinking red light and would'nt turn on.😥
@@stallion63m35
Nope. Failed cap on crossover will result in either no treble or a blown tweeter. Shorted speaker wire could blow the outputs. This was one of the low voltage regulators in the preamp circuit.
@@12voltvids ok tks. Love to watch vids like yours on audio equipt repair.Maybe you could do a vid on possible causes of amp failures..
The ONLY problem I have when using a solder sucker, is the tip getting plugged. Other than that technique and practice makes it useful solution for me.
The tips always get plugged. I loose patience with things that waste my time. Wick works for me and that is why I use it. I have both a squeeze bulb and this sucker and I dislike both as they are time wasters.
@@12voltvids
Agree 100%!
I usually accept to repair them but the cost is often more of these junk costs new so people refuse. The shop were I live are scarce and people have to drive few hours to get to them. At the of the day, I let the consumer decide if they want a repaired 10 years old unit for 1000$ for the repair plus the original cost or a new unit for 1200$. Never had anyone choosing the repair.
I get people refusing repairs for 100
Sacrifices must be made
Good sr.
I would just throw it in anger and see how far it goes.......
i have one with binking light it has hdmi mite have a P on it too
I’m sure that consumer electronics manufacturers don’t consider ease of maintenance because in their eyes they make as perfect a product as possible that will never need maintenance. Plus they want you to buy a new product as soon as possible to continue their profit stream.🤨🤨
My Marantz sr-5500 has the famous one front channel quieter than the other
Weird about the fusible resistors
I wasn't the first one into this one. Owner had a "friend" try to fix it prior to bringing it to me.
No sure about the angst over the construction. Yes it's mindless but the harder a job the more satisfying it feels at the end. I can see why the shops won't touch them but if the customer is willing to pay for the time where's the problem?
The problem i see with these is when there is more to disassemble and reassemble, the greater the chance of incidental damage. a simple removable panel on the bottom goes a long way.
Satisfying? I think not. A satisfying job is one that can be done relatively quickly without spending more time disassembling and reassembling the unit. And 9 times out of 10 the customer is not willing to spend a small fortune on these units because the new one does more and cost less.
Nice video
Sir i have a denon amplifier the red light is steady but no disply is anybody help.
I think my days are numbered with AV .
I only use 2 channel stereo .
The second hand shops in the UK are selling these without remote for £20 .
Return to the Class A I think ,
9 channel is a bit of a gimmick with the DSP
Don't tell the multi channel fan boys this. They will roast you. I am a 2 channel but too, and tubes to boot.
F... multi channel junk. Fixed my friends Parasound - 20 something year old HCA - Jfet in, 3pairs of Sankens out. Very nice sounding amp, that eat all the AVR junks for breakfast. I think of building some 2ch amps - I have cases, transformers and other parts left over from scrap pile of receivers. I'm mostly 2ch audio guy but I use multi for bi amping and DSP crossovers.
@@12voltvids Dave I do not give a toss about them , I have commented on those Audiophile channels , I will just turn them inside out ,
Sound engineering is my hobby , not HYPE .
Little do they know that the surround is compress and only a bit of fun untill it brakes .
I have a good sound here and we never stop learning , unlike some .
@@shaun9107
Of course it's, ac3 and all those other multi channel sound systems use compressed sound. Give me a good cd player a tube amp and a pair of big speakers any day for modern recordings and an old thrones table into a tube amp and big speakers for the stuff recorded when vinyl was the only game.
@@12voltvids I never used valves .
I am all records & tapes , everything is Digital now but when its recorded on tape it just ads a touch of warmth to it , the other haters just throw a load of dumb numbers at you to argue , well numbers are not the result of Performance .
Its the forced edge of hard Digital that stands out to me .
It keeps me busy a bit with this 14 band Equalizer with some of these new records that we use now , it certainly pays off with using one here with this lot .
As you can tell , I am no Audiophile .
I am not sure if valve amps are for this rig ,
I just wana turn it up a bit more .
Like to feel the Power
ignore the strikeout - don't know how that happened
that circuit board looks a little toasty in that area. to bad engineers didnt think about putting an access panel on the bottom. I guess they saved a couple dollars. and no panel means they'll screw you on any repairs, no pun intended.
you are probably right on the swap, and main amp being disposable. back in the day they did repair YOUR unit and send it back.
personally i never send stuff in for warranty repairs. Usually if i cant fix it, it cant be fixed. it just might take a couple months to get to repairing it though. lol
yea i never trust the "refurbished" stuff. we used to have a repair shop locally but it closed about 20 yrs ago. and since radio shack closed too i cant buy parts/components close. Though Ive found mouser is a pretty good place to buy stuff, decent prices and fast shipping. I dont do a lot of repairs, but it seems I am always working on something. Im sure if i advertised i could stay very busy full time.
@@xeroinfinity
Mouser is a bloody rip off in Canada. I ordered a small universal single ended 15 watt audio output transformer from them. Transformer was a hammond, made in Canada. Should have been about 30 bucks but with exchange and their flat rate shipping to Canada it came to over 100.00 for a transformer that had main electronics still been in business would have been probably under 20 bucks. I miss main electronics. They were the best place to find just about any part but the owner just had to die! Dam that sucked for all of us. His sons didn't want to keep the business running so they closed the doors :(
@12voltvids After reading this Dave, I was wondering if you have used Digi-Key very much, I figure you have. I started using them within the last year and I’ve hardly paid at all for shipping. Now I haven’t gotten anything real heavy but usually when shipping comes up, I got to the select shipping page and pick usps ground or whatever is cheapest. I’m in Florida and it normally is only three or four days and so far I haven’t spent more than five bucks for shipping yet. BUT, I know when you have to shop to Canada, things can change.
@@budandbean1 as soon as you put in Canada then outrageous shipping charges happen. Or they ship it fed ex or UPS and then a 37.50 broker charge arrives a few weeks later. That happened a few years ago and I mentioned I would gladly pass those fees on to the client and a the RUclips trolls went crazy and called me scum of the Earth and that I should eat the costs. Sorry but that is not how business works. Same when couriers started adding fuel surcharges on everything. Those costs get passed on.
Wow, if this isn't even the worst case, I don't wanna know how bad the others are! Well, I don't understand this multichannel stuff anyway. The average human has 2 ears. And the direction stuff comes from those two ears, there's no magic involved. You can get the same sensation when you mix your audio correctly to two channels correctly on playback, depending on your room and speaker positions. Much more efficient and cheaper.
Piffle.
@@daverhodes382 Good that marketing works on you, so companies can suck your money out of you pockets. :)
You did something wrong Dave, there aren't any extra screws leftover. LOL!!!! I will never put all of the screws & or bolts back into appliances because the majority were always just for shipping & you can tell that when you look at them. I always liked to do that to a customer to make them think, OH NO, somethings gonna fall apart, then I'd explain there just shipping screws & bolts, all they were for. You'd see a sigh of relief from them. LOL!!!
Nonsense on stilts.
+A Three Dog Night - Reminds me of a Three Stooges ep where they were auto mechanics and saw a customer drive off in their "repaired" car, leaving a trail of parts behind it.
I’d have quite a pile of screws left
Tengo un receptor Deno avr1603 que enciende mas no dar sonido.
What a butcher. No failure diagnostics, poor soldering, poor desoldering and never even bothered testing dc offsets and idling currents of output stage. No thermal checks etc and no checks on rail leakages etc. Something caused original regulator breakdown!!
I wouldn't take my kit to this guy.
Maybe watch part 1 before commenting...
@@eagle7267 I did, what's your point.
Like the shop where I worked never saw anyone do it either and I was just learning at the time. I don't recall any amps coming back but I guess we were lucky.
Denon avc 1550 shutdown with standby red blinking..
Great repair. We all do things differently,I would have removed / replaced both regulators by removing the heat sink and not having to worry about getting the regulator screws back in at such an awkward angle. No though about easy servicing in that design.
Not an ackward angle screws go right in. I have worked on far worse units.
i hate to service these multichanel recievers. Always refuse them.
Usually I do too.
For music buffs, fusion. One of my test albums after repair long ago. ruclips.net/video/0CdBLq_skb0/видео.html
You should invest in a magnetic screw tray so you don't loose screws taken out of appliances!
I have one but I stuck it somewhere and forgot where I stuck it.
No problem! I want to ask you a question. I bought a Behringer EP4000 Europower Power Amplifier on eBay & in the description it said Does not work, goes into protection mode. I have checked the fuse in both channels & they are fine. I think it's the Mosfet's that are blown. I'm sure you have dealt with this problem before.
@@DaveSmithmoneymagnet
Not familiar with that brand but it is likely the outputs. Will need to break out the meter and test them.
+Dave Smith - I use old prescription bottles to stash screws when I work on something that's not going back together immediately. Since most units use different screws in different places I'll put them in individual containers and stick a little note inside so I'll know where they go when it is time to put it all together. Don't like to trust memory with everything else going on around me.
@@Inflec Same here. If something isn't going back together right away the screws go in a container, but usually I just reassemble the unit and take it apart again when the screws come in.
Base labor should be $150
$120 seems fair for all those screws,sorry no dolla on uk keybaord lol
Are you sure? There is on mine.
Shift + 4 ?
k l - Yes exactly.
TEN MINUTE DIAGNOSTIC.... 1.5 HOURS DISASSEMBLY AND RE-ASSEMBLY!