I must say, after my first winter in my yurt, we have a lot of snow but I had zero problem with condensation, never had to open the toono, I have no stains at all inside, and no drips either. I think it's because I live in it full time, I don't have a shower , and I use a wood cookstove full time. I did get the good vapour barrier in my roof and I keep the snow off. Couldn't be happier!
I have a breathable(expensive) house wrap on my yurt, as I anticipated this problem. I run a oversized stove, I ventilate, and I run a de-humidifer. I still have rain issues for a few weeks during the year.. I'm in a rainforest area. It's mostly in mid-late fall/early spring. I'm thinking about improving the yurt living by 1- positively pressurizing the yurt for better air quality, although this can only be used during non-yurt rain periods. 2- Altering ventilation so that there is a top vent for times when the yurt is raining. (I currently have a two cross-breezes and a fan. 3- Minimizing wood drying in yurt during yurt rain events, using cooking methods with low evaporation, running a de-humidifier during the worst periods. 4- Putting tapestry (with poly on the back) to re-direct moisture away from any areas where dripping is a major issue(beds/sitting areas). I think thats about as good as it gets. At the end of the day, its yurt living. edit: I find during mid-winter and with snow on the roof the humidity problem is less of an issue than during period of high rain and cooler temps when the woodstove is run less
Thank you warmly for your input which was somehow missed! Overall I completely agree: the first step is to well understand the process of condensation, install well and monitor the production of moisture and like a Mongolian supplier put it very simply : ventilate, ventilate, ventilate... We are still constantly looking at the easiest possible ways to help control condensation and your input helps!
i'm a full time rv'er and 30+ year nomad. i'm lucky i have shore power living in near desert conditions. when i can afford to run AC, there's always a gallon or more condensation coming off the roof, so i have to keep my seams sealed or the wall frame on the inside rots and destroys my rv. in the winter, i open the roof vents just enough to see sky, but not let in rain. heat rises and takes moisture with it. this isn't my first rv, but it is the first to see the interior walls delaminate and bowe from summer humidity. keeping the roof vents cracked, never had a problem with humidity and the heat loss at 12F ambient was negligible. lost more heat to the floor and floor vents since cold air falls and heat/moisture is attracted to cold. beware heat leaching at ground level and thermal bridging on the walls. it's not just the roof that will rob you of heat/cool and feed you back what you sweat and breath out. sealed spaces are the ultimate recyclers.
I live in an area that ecologists term "temperate rainforest". It's wet here. And we frequently have very heavy rainfall for a week at a time. A traditional ger is probably not a great idea for me. But oh, absolutely LOVE the beautiful doors, posts, furniture in your ger!! It's so lovely and bright and cheerful.
we actually have a few customers living full time in a (rain) forest on the upper West coast (WA). They seem to be doing very well, but might have to change their covers more often as well as change the horse hair ropes outside for straps. Ventilation is the key!
Hi there, I would love to know what brand of house wrap was the most breathable. Would you be able to share that or is this info available on your website? About to set up a groovy yurt in an increasingly tropical rainforest! Thanks
so sorry for the late reply Leticia. We're using Mento 1000. Tropical rainforest is certainly a tough climate for a Mongolian ger, so ventilate, ventilate, ventilate
thanks :) We aren't really in the tropical rainforest, but the heavier rains with climate change and increasing heat in the summer makes it feel like that. @@Groovyyurts
Does house wrap freeze if the inside of the yurt is kept above freezing ? At worst mechanical ventilation taking moist air from the highest point in the yurt, in cold weather to the outside preferably with a air heat exchanger. They use very little energy and recover your heat.
I have a solution that you might try. This is a modification of the ring on the crown. A: the ring needs six groves cut into it on each side . This will allow none interference with the second piece of the crown wich needs to rotate 360° whaaaAAAT!? a two piece crown ... Yes! There needs to be a grove cut on the inside of the crown about 1/2" - 3/4 deep this allows the top of the crown to float on a roller system. You will need some 1/16 inch sheet metal it needs to be in three sections and hinged for portablility. In the center section. Is your stove pipe the other two sections are vented just like the attic in your house they will release moisture. Keep heat in and let moisture out. I can't give you specific measurements because no to yurts are the same. It's just the nature of the beast. The nice thing about the system is if the wind is blowing at you then you can spin your stove pipe 180° ... Try that
A rocket stove is definitely a great idea for more permanent settings. The standard wood stove helps with moisture. I am not familiar enough with rocket stoves to know if they also contribute to dry the air, or if they can gove the heat "kick" to dry the yurt from inside out once humid
@@Groovyyurts I think they provide radiant heating. Although for radiant heating I would reccomend radiant floor heating/underfloor heating. Notable examples of what I mean would be the Chinese Kang bed-stove or the Korean Ondol. The ancient Greek Hypocaust or its descendant the Gloria might be an option. I've been thinking of ways to heat my own Yurt (once I get one) as I plan to live in Alaska one day. Underfloor heating seems like a good option to me as it's out of the way and the heating effect is much more efficient than just the wood burning stove. I think it should answer the moisture problem but I don't know for sure. The Ondol is my favorite option to try and adapt when I finally get the opportunity to. Since I would have to make a foundation anyway why not make the most of it and clear the floor space? Just my thoughts. Thanks for the reply.
We have a dozen yurts in Iceland with radiant heating. The issue is that all humidity evaporates in the ceiling, leaving the ground air very dry. The parade is to install a ceiling fan and make sure that excess of moisture can escape (ventilation)@@Muttsist
Do not Mongolians make the first layer out of some animal hide? Thats really where i think they get so much durability from that layer of Animal hide then layer of fur. Why not clear plastic as the first layer inside? Be nice if you could make a giant styrofoam dome that ships in 2 pieces or something that could be the first layer. Or polystyrene. I know poly is doable at those sizes.
I must say, after my first winter in my yurt, we have a lot of snow but I had zero problem with condensation, never had to open the toono, I have no stains at all inside, and no drips either. I think it's because I live in it full time, I don't have a shower , and I use a wood cookstove full time. I did get the good vapour barrier in my roof and I keep the snow off. Couldn't be happier!
thanks so much for the feedback Josee. 2 years in now: any updates? Happy yurting!
I have a breathable(expensive) house wrap on my yurt, as I anticipated this problem. I run a oversized stove, I ventilate, and I run a de-humidifer. I still have rain issues for a few weeks during the year..
I'm in a rainforest area. It's mostly in mid-late fall/early spring.
I'm thinking about improving the yurt living by
1- positively pressurizing the yurt for better air quality, although this can only be used during non-yurt rain periods.
2- Altering ventilation so that there is a top vent for times when the yurt is raining. (I currently have a two cross-breezes and a fan.
3- Minimizing wood drying in yurt during yurt rain events, using cooking methods with low evaporation, running a de-humidifier during the worst periods.
4- Putting tapestry (with poly on the back) to re-direct moisture away from any areas where dripping is a major issue(beds/sitting areas).
I think thats about as good as it gets. At the end of the day, its yurt living.
edit: I find during mid-winter and with snow on the roof the humidity problem is less of an issue than during period of high rain and cooler temps when the woodstove is run less
Thank you warmly for your input which was somehow missed! Overall I completely agree: the first step is to well understand the process of condensation, install well and monitor the production of moisture and like a Mongolian supplier put it very simply : ventilate, ventilate, ventilate...
We are still constantly looking at the easiest possible ways to help control condensation and your input helps!
i'm a full time rv'er and 30+ year nomad. i'm lucky i have shore power living in near desert conditions. when i can afford to run AC, there's always a gallon or more condensation coming off the roof, so i have to keep my seams sealed or the wall frame on the inside rots and destroys my rv. in the winter, i open the roof vents just enough to see sky, but not let in rain. heat rises and takes moisture with it. this isn't my first rv, but it is the first to see the interior walls delaminate and bowe from summer humidity. keeping the roof vents cracked, never had a problem with humidity and the heat loss at 12F ambient was negligible. lost more heat to the floor and floor vents since cold air falls and heat/moisture is attracted to cold. beware heat leaching at ground level and thermal bridging on the walls. it's not just the roof that will rob you of heat/cool and feed you back what you sweat and breath out. sealed spaces are the ultimate recyclers.
interesting to see how moisture has its ways and ventilation is crucial!
I live in an area that ecologists term "temperate rainforest". It's wet here. And we frequently have very heavy rainfall for a week at a time. A traditional ger is probably not a great idea for me.
But oh, absolutely LOVE the beautiful doors, posts, furniture in your ger!! It's so lovely and bright and cheerful.
we actually have a few customers living full time in a (rain) forest on the upper West coast (WA). They seem to be doing very well, but might have to change their covers more often as well as change the horse hair ropes outside for straps. Ventilation is the key!
Wood stove, dehumidifier, and circulate the air with a fan.
Hi there, I would love to know what brand of house wrap was the most breathable. Would you be able to share that or is this info available on your website? About to set up a groovy yurt in an increasingly tropical rainforest! Thanks
so sorry for the late reply Leticia. We're using Mento 1000. Tropical rainforest is certainly a tough climate for a Mongolian ger, so ventilate, ventilate, ventilate
thanks :) We aren't really in the tropical rainforest, but the heavier rains with climate change and increasing heat in the summer makes it feel like that. @@Groovyyurts
definitely a global move! The felt insulation is definitely a plus t protect from the heat and lower A/C costs@@leticiasmillie1302
I was thinking beeswax the outer canvas to waterproof it
It would make it much heavier, harder to set up, and more humid within.
It can be an idea, but might prevent the canvas to breathe.
I love Groovy Yurts!
Does house wrap freeze if the inside of the yurt is kept above freezing ? At worst mechanical ventilation taking moist air from the highest point in the yurt, in cold weather to the outside preferably with a air heat exchanger. They use very little energy and recover your heat.
I have a solution that you might try.
This is a modification of the ring on the crown. A: the ring needs six groves cut into it on each side .
This will allow none interference with the second piece of the crown wich needs to rotate 360°
whaaaAAAT!? a two piece crown ... Yes!
There needs to be a grove cut on the inside of the crown about 1/2" - 3/4 deep this allows the top of the crown to float on a roller system.
You will need some 1/16 inch sheet metal it needs to be in three sections and hinged for portablility. In the center section. Is your stove pipe the other two sections are vented just like the attic in your house they will release moisture.
Keep heat in and let moisture out. I can't give you specific measurements because no to yurts are the same. It's just the nature of the beast.
The nice thing about the system is if the wind is blowing at you then you can spin your stove pipe 180° ... Try that
I wonder if a rocket stove would be a good improvement to the regular wood stove and need less wood.
A rocket stove is definitely a great idea for more permanent settings. The standard wood stove helps with moisture. I am not familiar enough with rocket stoves to know if they also contribute to dry the air, or if they can gove the heat "kick" to dry the yurt from inside out once humid
@@Groovyyurts I think they provide radiant heating. Although for radiant heating I would reccomend radiant floor heating/underfloor heating. Notable examples of what I mean would be the Chinese Kang bed-stove or the Korean Ondol. The ancient Greek Hypocaust or its descendant the Gloria might be an option. I've been thinking of ways to heat my own Yurt (once I get one) as I plan to live in Alaska one day. Underfloor heating seems like a good option to me as it's out of the way and the heating effect is much more efficient than just the wood burning stove. I think it should answer the moisture problem but I don't know for sure. The Ondol is my favorite option to try and adapt when I finally get the opportunity to. Since I would have to make a foundation anyway why not make the most of it and clear the floor space? Just my thoughts. Thanks for the reply.
We have a dozen yurts in Iceland with radiant heating. The issue is that all humidity evaporates in the ceiling, leaving the ground air very dry. The parade is to install a ceiling fan and make sure that excess of moisture can escape (ventilation)@@Muttsist
Do not Mongolians make the first layer out of some animal hide? Thats really where i think they get so much durability from that layer of Animal hide then layer of fur. Why not clear plastic as the first layer inside? Be nice if you could make a giant styrofoam dome that ships in 2 pieces or something that could be the first layer. Or polystyrene. I know poly is doable at those sizes.
Sit on the flore