What does a surf wipeout feel like? Taken deep down in water.

If you haven't surfed- you may ask yourself "What does it feel like when surfer's wipeout?".
It's surprisingly scary. I cannot imagine what big wave surfers experience. My 6-8 foot waves can feel life ending.
Hold your breath
stay calm
protect your head
When the wave stops actively trying to kill you- then get to the surface for a quick breath. Be carful though! Another wave is likely about to crash on you.
I'm using a Gopro 12 pro (not sponsored. I bought it myself- I just know people want to know what camera I use).
Just because you aren't "great" at something does not mean you should give up. I'm a surfer. And I'm very bad at it lol.
Don't listen to other people talk trash about those daring enough to try new things.
Get out of your bubble and fail at everything you can :)
From competing in track- to competing on the Amazing Race, to competing in surfing (and proudly taking home last place lol) I can tell you that life is short- so don't make it boring.
Surfing San Onofre, state beach California.
Beautiful day in San Onofre. The state beach has been closed so this was the first time I got back for months. So happy to try again.
The waves were crowded but everyone was so stoked to share the waves with each other. I love this community :)
You can tell how fast these waves were pushing me today. It was a bit crazy. Very choppy waves but still had a lot of fun.
No sharks tonight (not trying to lose the other leg lol).
I'm hoping to get more control by learning to turn / move up and down the wave face. Still been really struggling. Any day surfing is a great day.
The prosthetic I use is just an old fake foot that we glued a shoe sole on.
Thank you for watching!