I try to add molasses to my nutrients regime, especially on nitrogen heavy crops. Sure seems to help make organic fertilizers work faster. My favourite inoculent is 4 parts oat meal, 2 parts fresh worm compost, 2 parts wheat bran mix in with a drizzle of molasses. Leave it in a dark warm place for a week. Boom your soil will darken and have life again, nutrients will cycle. 1gallon covers 1000sq ft.
Ek self werk al 30 jaar met die natuur en dus dir een ding wat ons sé ,sit koolstof terug . Baie dankie vir die een ,dit help om die boodskap uit te kan dra.
The problem is that most municipal water sources are working against you. Most municipal water is a bicarbonate buffered system (like the ocean) with a pH of around 8.0. So you are constantly adding bicarbonate to the soil in addition to things like trihalomethane and chloramines.
You are right in your comment. Municipal watering systems add nutrients with a high nitrogen and phosphorous content because they support plant growth and it is necessary. But if you find a natural source and supply that helps the soil and its pH to move towards a natural ecological balance, then you do not need to apply bicarbonate regularly. That nature-based material exists.
@@ThePoseidon-Projects Not true They DO NOT ADD Nitrogen or phosphate its natural, and can increase in levels during the spring melt of ice and snow run off. they biggest thing they do is aerate the water otherwise your plants would die.
You are correct. I use to operate commercial swimming pools and the high pH of the supply water inhibited the chlorine from sanitizing the water. Lowering the pH to 7.3-7.6 was the first goal.
Great explanation. Thank you for this very interesting video. Now I have a question. If the ratios of C, O and H must be in a specific balance for the bacteria to do their thing so plants can thrive, how do or with what device do we measure those elements and how much of each of those elements must at least be present in the soil?
To answer your question: The balance of carbon (C), oxygen (O), and hydrogen (H) in the soil is critical for maintaining a healthy microbial ecosystem. These elements are primarily managed through the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio in organic matter, which indirectly influences microbial activity. Here’s how we measure and maintain balance: Measuring Carbon (C): Device/Method: A Carbon Analyzer or Elemental Analyzer is used to measure organic carbon in the soil. Ideal Levels: A C:N ratio of 24:1 to 30:1 in organic matter is considered optimal for microbial activity. Measuring Oxygen (O): Oxygen levels are more challenging to measure directly. However, the soil's aeration can be assessed using devices like a soil oxygen meter or by ensuring proper soil structure (e.g., loose, well-drained soil). Oxygen availability largely depends on organic matter and aeration. Compacted soils or waterlogged conditions reduce oxygen levels. Measuring Hydrogen (H): Hydrogen in the soil is usually managed through water content since H is a key component of H₂O. Device/Method: A soil moisture sensor can help ensure that the soil has adequate moisture for microbial activity. Minimum Levels and Balance Carbon: Organic carbon should be at least 1-3% of soil weight in most agricultural soils. Oxygen: Soil should have enough aeration to support aerobic bacteria, which dominate in healthy soils. Hydrogen: Soil moisture should ideally be between 50-70% of field capacity to sustain microbial activity. Let me know if you’d like more detailed guidance on testing methods or ways to improve these levels naturally. 🌿😊
Do you have some videos on methods to accomplish these parameters for microbial activity? Let’s say my soil compaction is too high; what do I do about that? Or my EC is too high, what then?
I have good calcium levels now but I’m at a ph of 7.5. My soil ranges from sand/gravel to extremely heavy clays and it can be all in one field and vary that much from one end to the other. I’m battling higher ph and low sulphur. I am going to apply some elemental sulphur to help build back my sulphur level but this season I did start applying molasses and humic acid with the thought of feeding microbes. My fields have gotten about 8L of molasses (2.11 gal) and I’ve applied 2kg of humic acid (4.4lbs) is this enough what else should I be doing
I’m using humic acid on my soil now. I’m applying 1kg per acre in fall on corn and bean residue and I also apply 1-1.5 kg in crop all season long at 300-500 grams per application. Will this help raise my carbon levels. I have started growing cover crops after corn and beans. My soil ph is 7-7.5. This is my second year into this. I’m changing how I soil test this fall and including a Haney soil test. This will be done on half my acres coming out of beans this fall and going into corn next year.
While humic acid contributes to microbial activity, the actual addition of stable organic carbon to the soil is minimal. Most of the carbon in humic acid is already in a stable, decomposed form, so it doesn't add much "new" carbon to your soil over time. Your real gains in soil organic carbon will come from practices like: Cover Cropping: This is a fantastic addition! Cover crops add organic residues to the soil and improve microbial diversity. Minimizing Tillage: Reducing disturbance helps retain the carbon stored in soil aggregates. Crop Residue Management: Leaving residue from corn and beans on the field, as you're doing, provides organic matter that microbes can decompose into stable carbon. Humic acid supports these processes but isn't the primary driver of carbon sequestration.
1. Acidify the Soil Blueberries require acidic soil for proper nutrient uptake, particularly iron. If your soil's pH is above 5.5, take these steps: Short-Term Solutions (Pre-Planting or Existing Plants): Sulfur Application: Use elemental sulfur to lower the pH. Apply 1-3 pounds of sulfur per 100 square feet, depending on the initial pH and soil texture (use less for sandy soil and more for clay). Incorporate it into the soil several months before planting as it takes time for sulfur to acidify the soil. Iron Sulfate: For quicker results (though less cost-effective), apply iron sulfate instead of elemental sulfur. This works faster but needs reapplication more often. Ongoing Maintenance (For Established Plants): Use acidic fertilizers: Look for formulations with ammonium sulfate, urea, or sulfur-coated urea, which help maintain a low pH. Apply pine needles or sawdust mulch: Organic mulches like pine needles and pine bark naturally acidify the soil over time while improving soil structure.
I need someone with this much understanding come take a look at my backyard to see where I'm at, and what I need to do so that my shade trees could thrive....(beside water lol) 😎
You're absolutely correct! At 8:26, the term "one molecule of hydrogen" should indeed be "one atom of hydrogen" if the context refers to individual hydrogen atoms rather than the diatomic hydrogen molecule (H₂).
Sir I have a question, which is also a myth....many people say different things.....and I am little bit confused about it.....I would like to know that does NPK kills soil micro-organisms? Some says it's kills soil microbes because its a some form of salt.... I will be grateful if you could share your precious thoughts on this.....thank you and love from India...🙏
very high K in your field and may be displacing the calcium. what is your pH? K is 2 times more effective in raising pH than calcium. magnesium, 1.6 times more than calcium. sodium, 4 times more. in the end though, tis not the pH. tis the ratio of minerals to each other. in the Albrecht system, K should occupy only 2-5% of base saturation. Glen's company has 2 calcium products with different functions - one to sort of break up tightness of soils mostly due to high magnesium and the other for the present calcium needs of the plant...blessings
Thanks for the feedback Paul. Our pH is around 6-6.5. which is not too bad I would have thought. We haven't kept it up in recent years but we did a lot of liming here in the name of Albrecht but could still never get that K to budge. We don't have K in our fert anymore, but it's still crazy high everywhere we go. I am curious if we need more exchangeable hydrogen to kick the calcium off the carbonate to get some action perhaps. Despite all the liming we still see a lot of weeds and disease etc. It's a real head scratcher
@@grahamstevenson6417 wow! what a curious state of soil! tested with a penetrometer? you don't have to have one. just any steel rod will do - if it slides down easy or resists and would not go in except for forceful push down. how's the biology of your soil? microbes i mean. have you tried to push the microbial function with perhaps the Johnson-Su compost extract. Glen mentions their calcium product which aerates the soil a pound of which covers acres - i forget the rate. could help but of course do this after you have considered all the factors...
Thanks Paul. I am trying to get a hold of one to have another look. Typically the tilled cropping paddocks with stay loose enough for the season, down to the plow layer at least. But these will crust immediately after rain. Will see some holes from biology during the fall winter months, but as soon as the sun comes out in spring they run away. Pastures will ultimately settle and hardset like concrete ( which is a potassium thing I believe) after a couple of years. The loamy hard setting nature of these soil mean they tend not to swell and crack like clays do I guess. I gather the air would soon be mostly cut off. Gave "EM" microbes a go for 6 years , but nothing. From watching Glen's video's I now understand our 8-10:1 C:N ratio is not helping there. Wish I knew that gem earlier. Would love to try some of Glen's brews, but not sure they have then here in Australia. Glen maybe may enjoy a trip to Australia for a look? I'll put the kettle on hey? Really appreciate the feedback Paul 👍. I hope you are kicking goals with it all.
@@grahamstevenson6417 👌may your effort bear fruit. find Bryan Mcleod here in youtube - Soil Mineral Balancing, guest in a video by Soil Learning Center. expert from New Zealand, been all over the world, i believe even here in the Philippines. decades of experience which one may need with your mind-bender. he has a consulting firm - proag consulting...blessings😇
Thank you for your interest! Unfortunately we aren't exporting products to the Philippines at this time. Feel free to check back with us in the future.
@@SoilWorksLLC-GSRCalcium too bad, my PH is 6.5. I would love to grow them, but I am not keen to use peat, sulfur, or sulfate fertilizers to lover my PH.
@@blagoeresComposted Oak and pine leaves and a lot of them. It is how wild blueberries or huckleberries grow in non peat bog areas. What is your beef with sulfur? You can research on youtube how to make fertilizers from fermented grass.
In the Panhadle the soil is acidic...Like 4.6 to 5.0 if I'm Lucky. I'll meet someone and trade a few tons and mix them and see if that works? I'm SERIOUS
Work on increasing soluble carbon in your soils. The soluble carbon will stimulate the soil microbiology and help increase nutrient cycling within the soil.
@@Bennfarming Yes, moving toward stripper fronts, no-till disc seeding, and full stubble retention can significantly contribute to increasing soluble carbon (available organic carbon) in your soil over time. These practices align well with regenerative principles and the Soil Food Web philosophy, promoting carbon cycling and microbial activity.
That is to say that the best pH stabilizer are cover crops destroyed just before its maturation. It is the time where they contain the highest pourcentage of carbon in it. Besides these destroyed cover crops should be left on the surface and not mix with the soil in order to not destroy habitats and the microorganisms living in the soil which are responsible for the soil fertility. Less machines you use on your soil, less soil perturbation you will cause and better will be the fertility of the soil. You just have to observe how mother nature works and try to do the same. You must understand that nature knows a lot better than humans how to grow plants, so learn from mother nature, it is your best bet. More you will know about how nature does and more you will understand that regenerative agriculture is the only way to go to have a sustainable agriculture. You will also understand that you do not need any chemicals and the less machines possible to produce a good quality and quantity of plants.
Hydroxide is potential hydrogen isn't it? and free hydrogen is kinetic. Potential energy vs kinetic energy, potential means its there and has potential to be useful if oxygen can be freed from it, kinetic means it's active and in motion able to be used
That's what I thought you didn't get to the point this is my first video I've seen of him within 45 seconds into the video I knew he was selling something because he wasn't telling you what to do until the end when he points to the boxes in the back and that's what he wants you to buy yeah no thank you like I didn't know this already but I don't need a sales pitch on every little thing just show me what I need to do and how to do it but oh yeah by the way by my product
My first time watching too BUT, his math us correct. Sry there is no 'just tell me what to do!' Soil is complex and diverse. But micro orgs are the foundation.
If you read his content you would know that he is trying to give tools to create an environment for the biological process to work. Believe me I tried it with biology only. Glen has the keys to regenerative agriculture and I’m very glad he can make a living while educating us
Would it be accurate to say 16 to 1 "organic carbon compounds to nitrogen, aids in soil respiration and fertility? I understand biochar being pure carbon (mostly) is inert at normal soil temperatures.💯✌️🦚
I try to add molasses to my nutrients regime, especially on nitrogen heavy crops. Sure seems to help make organic fertilizers work faster.
My favourite inoculent is 4 parts oat meal, 2 parts fresh worm compost, 2 parts wheat bran mix in with a drizzle of molasses. Leave it in a dark warm place for a week. Boom your soil will darken and have life again, nutrients will cycle. 1gallon covers 1000sq ft.
Ek self werk al 30 jaar met die natuur en dus dir een ding wat ons sé ,sit koolstof terug . Baie dankie vir die een ,dit help om die boodskap uit te kan dra.
Bly om te sien oom probeer net so hard leer soos ek. Jurie
nice work Glen - straight to the point - no nonsense - and your passion comes through!
man oh man, you sir are the COOLEST teacher ever! I love being here! hehe
Perfect lecture - Good for learning how to fix pH
Thanks
Professor at the University of RUclips!
Thank you!
Great presentation Sir! I now understand what is soil pH philosophy.
Great video. Love the down to earth approach by which you present some complex topics.
Thank you very much that was very useful information.
Thank you for posting.
The problem is that most municipal water sources are working against you. Most municipal water is a bicarbonate buffered system (like the ocean) with a pH of around 8.0. So you are constantly adding bicarbonate to the soil in addition to things like trihalomethane and chloramines.
You are right in your comment. Municipal watering systems add nutrients with a high nitrogen and phosphorous content because they support plant growth and it is necessary. But if you find a natural source and supply that helps the soil and its pH to move towards a natural ecological balance, then you do not need to apply bicarbonate regularly. That nature-based material exists.
@@ThePoseidon-Projects Not true They DO NOT ADD Nitrogen or phosphate its natural, and can increase in levels during the spring melt of ice and snow run off. they biggest thing they do is aerate the water otherwise your plants would die.
You are correct. I use to operate commercial swimming pools and the high pH of the supply water inhibited the chlorine from sanitizing the water. Lowering the pH to 7.3-7.6 was the first goal.
And that's why municipal water should not be considered drinking water.
I don't use municipal water but my well water has a PH of at least 8.
Great explanation. Thank you for this very interesting video.
Now I have a question. If the ratios of C, O and H must be in a specific balance for the bacteria to do their thing so plants can thrive, how do or with what device do we measure those elements and how much of each of those elements must at least be present in the soil?
To answer your question: The balance of carbon (C), oxygen (O), and hydrogen (H) in the soil is critical for maintaining a healthy microbial ecosystem. These elements are primarily managed through the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio in organic matter, which indirectly influences microbial activity.
Here’s how we measure and maintain balance:
Measuring Carbon (C):
Device/Method: A Carbon Analyzer or Elemental Analyzer is used to measure organic carbon in the soil.
Ideal Levels: A C:N ratio of 24:1 to 30:1 in organic matter is considered optimal for microbial activity.
Measuring Oxygen (O):
Oxygen levels are more challenging to measure directly. However, the soil's aeration can be assessed using devices like a soil oxygen meter or by ensuring proper soil structure (e.g., loose, well-drained soil).
Oxygen availability largely depends on organic matter and aeration. Compacted soils or waterlogged conditions reduce oxygen levels.
Measuring Hydrogen (H):
Hydrogen in the soil is usually managed through water content since H is a key component of H₂O.
Device/Method: A soil moisture sensor can help ensure that the soil has adequate moisture for microbial activity.
Minimum Levels and Balance
Carbon: Organic carbon should be at least 1-3% of soil weight in most agricultural soils.
Oxygen: Soil should have enough aeration to support aerobic bacteria, which dominate in healthy soils.
Hydrogen: Soil moisture should ideally be between 50-70% of field capacity to sustain microbial activity.
Let me know if you’d like more detailed guidance on testing methods or ways to improve these levels naturally. 🌿😊
A brilliant video! Informative!
Do you have some videos on methods to accomplish these parameters for microbial activity? Let’s say my soil compaction is too high; what do I do about that? Or my EC is too high, what then?
I have good calcium levels now but I’m at a ph of 7.5. My soil ranges from sand/gravel to extremely heavy clays and it can be all in one field and vary that much from one end to the other. I’m battling higher ph and low sulphur. I am going to apply some elemental sulphur to help build back my sulphur level but this season I did start applying molasses and humic acid with the thought of feeding microbes. My fields have gotten about 8L of molasses (2.11 gal) and I’ve applied 2kg of humic acid (4.4lbs) is this enough what else should I be doing
I’m using humic acid on my soil now. I’m applying 1kg per acre in fall on corn and bean residue and I also apply 1-1.5 kg in crop all season long at 300-500 grams per application. Will this help raise my carbon levels. I have started growing cover crops after corn and beans. My soil ph is 7-7.5. This is my second year into this. I’m changing how I soil test this fall and including a Haney soil test. This will be done on half my acres coming out of beans this fall and going into corn next year.
While humic acid contributes to microbial activity, the actual addition of stable organic carbon to the soil is minimal. Most of the carbon in humic acid is already in a stable, decomposed form, so it doesn't add much "new" carbon to your soil over time.
Your real gains in soil organic carbon will come from practices like:
Cover Cropping: This is a fantastic addition! Cover crops add organic residues to the soil and improve microbial diversity.
Minimizing Tillage: Reducing disturbance helps retain the carbon stored in soil aggregates.
Crop Residue Management: Leaving residue from corn and beans on the field, as you're doing, provides organic matter that microbes can decompose into stable carbon.
Humic acid supports these processes but isn't the primary driver of carbon sequestration.
Nice presentation ,from Philippines
Thanks! 😃
So what would you recommend for growing blueberries in a native soil that isn't between 4.5-5.5? Make sure it's well oxygenated?
check out soil redox for bluberry
1. Acidify the Soil
Blueberries require acidic soil for proper nutrient uptake, particularly iron. If your soil's pH is above 5.5, take these steps:
Short-Term Solutions (Pre-Planting or Existing Plants):
Sulfur Application:
Use elemental sulfur to lower the pH.
Apply 1-3 pounds of sulfur per 100 square feet, depending on the initial pH and soil texture (use less for sandy soil and more for clay).
Incorporate it into the soil several months before planting as it takes time for sulfur to acidify the soil.
Iron Sulfate:
For quicker results (though less cost-effective), apply iron sulfate instead of elemental sulfur. This works faster but needs reapplication more often.
Ongoing Maintenance (For Established Plants):
Use acidic fertilizers: Look for formulations with ammonium sulfate, urea, or sulfur-coated urea, which help maintain a low pH.
Apply pine needles or sawdust mulch: Organic mulches like pine needles and pine bark naturally acidify the soil over time while improving soil structure.
is there any observation you’ve made that indicate an imbalance ?, compelling you to perform the testing
I need someone with this much understanding come take a look at my backyard to see where I'm at, and what I need to do so that my shade trees could thrive....(beside water lol) 😎
It sounds like you're deeply invested in creating a thriving, beautiful backyard-and shade trees are a fantastic foundation!
🇬🇧 great information thanks mate 👍
At min 5:52, you meant Carbon, not Calcium, right?
One point - 8:26 “one molecule of hydrogen” should be “one atom of hydrogen” right?
You're absolutely correct! At 8:26, the term "one molecule of hydrogen" should indeed be "one atom of hydrogen" if the context refers to individual hydrogen atoms rather than the diatomic hydrogen molecule (H₂).
I live in a heavy Lime mineral area... very hard water. How does that come into play?
Do you have high ph as a result?
Lime raises the pH
Sir I have a question, which is also a myth....many people say different things.....and I am little bit confused about it.....I would like to know that does NPK kills soil micro-organisms? Some says it's kills soil microbes because its a some form of salt.... I will be grateful if you could share your precious thoughts on this.....thank you and love from India...🙏
Great video thanks Glen.
We have reasonable calcium (65-75)% but relatively high Potassium (15%) and low exchangeable hydrogen soil's (
very high K in your field and may be displacing the calcium. what is your pH? K is 2 times more effective in raising pH than calcium. magnesium, 1.6 times more than calcium. sodium, 4 times more. in the end though, tis not the pH. tis the ratio of minerals to each other. in the Albrecht system, K should occupy only 2-5% of base saturation. Glen's company has 2 calcium products with different functions - one to sort of break up tightness of soils mostly due to high magnesium and the other for the present calcium needs of the plant...blessings
Thanks for the feedback Paul. Our pH is around 6-6.5. which is not too bad I would have thought. We haven't kept it up in recent years but we did a lot of liming here in the name of Albrecht but could still never get that K to budge. We don't have K in our fert anymore, but it's still crazy high everywhere we go.
I am curious if we need more exchangeable hydrogen to kick the calcium off the carbonate to get some action perhaps. Despite all the liming we still see a lot of weeds and disease etc. It's a real head scratcher
@@grahamstevenson6417 wow! what a curious state of soil! tested with a penetrometer? you don't have to have one. just any steel rod will do - if it slides down easy or resists and would not go in except for forceful push down. how's the biology of your soil? microbes i mean. have you tried to push the microbial function with perhaps the Johnson-Su compost extract. Glen mentions their calcium product which aerates the soil a pound of which covers acres - i forget the rate. could help but of course do this after you have considered all the factors...
Thanks Paul.
I am trying to get a hold of one to have another look. Typically the tilled cropping paddocks with stay loose enough for the season, down to the plow layer at least. But these will crust immediately after rain. Will see some holes from biology during the fall winter months, but as soon as the sun comes out in spring they run away. Pastures will ultimately settle and hardset like concrete ( which is a potassium thing I believe) after a couple of years. The loamy hard setting nature of these soil mean they tend not to swell and crack like clays do I guess. I gather the air would soon be mostly cut off.
Gave "EM" microbes a go for 6 years , but nothing. From watching Glen's video's I now understand our 8-10:1 C:N ratio is not helping there. Wish I knew that gem earlier.
Would love to try some of Glen's brews, but not sure they have then here in Australia.
Glen maybe may enjoy a trip to Australia for a look? I'll put the kettle on hey?
Really appreciate the feedback Paul 👍. I hope you are kicking goals with it all.
@@grahamstevenson6417 👌may your effort bear fruit. find Bryan Mcleod here in youtube - Soil Mineral Balancing, guest in a video by Soil Learning Center. expert from New Zealand, been all over the world, i believe even here in the Philippines. decades of experience which one may need with your mind-bender. he has a consulting firm - proag consulting...blessings😇
Sulphur, you should use lime that sweeten the soil and usually brings it back to good pH
I am a gardener... is the lime you speak of the same as " garden lime.. used for hydrangea's?
You missed the boat.
Feed the microbes with hay and straw, do not kill them with lime
Very well presented
I wish my soil ph was 7.0 cause it was ph 4.8! Got it up to ph 6.0 now!!!
Blueberry, raspberry, and blackberries would have loved your soil
Does amending with sand help any in the this process?
Great presentation.
Thank you kindly!
Amazing info
Where, how can we buy of your product sir ?
We are from the Philippines
Thank you for your interest! Unfortunately we aren't exporting products to the Philippines at this time. Feel free to check back with us in the future.
What about blueberries, is it true they can't grow in 6 to 7 PH and need very acidic soil ?
Blueberries do like a lower pH soil.
@@SoilWorksLLC-GSRCalcium too bad, my PH is 6.5. I would love to grow them, but I am not keen to use peat, sulfur, or sulfate fertilizers to lover my PH.
@@blagoeresComposted Oak and pine leaves and a lot of them. It is how wild blueberries or huckleberries grow in non peat bog areas. What is your beef with sulfur? You can research on youtube how to make fertilizers from fermented grass.
@@frankenz66 we use sulfur as a fungicide on grapevines. So my guess is that it will damage fungi in the soil also.
@@blagoeres we grow blueberries in 7pH soil, zero chemicals, old depleted reclaimed farm plot. We get a good yeild.
Great video 🇳🇿❤️
Thank you! 😃
To open the soil up with calcium can i use gypsum i hear gypsum has calcium
He said you have to increase carbon. I missed that point on how that is accomplished.. I will view again.
Gypsum is not very water soluble, so not a good source of calcium for plants, but it will displace sodium and is used to treat sodic soils.
Southern Ohio dirt is 5.4-5.8 and a high magnesium….solution? Fertilizer? Great job!! Thanks in advance.🙏🏻🇺🇸🙏🏻
Lime would be my best guess, but I’m still learning
In the Panhadle the soil is acidic...Like 4.6 to 5.0 if I'm Lucky. I'll meet someone and trade a few tons and mix them and see if that works? I'm SERIOUS
Florida panhandle or Oklahoma panhandle...?🤔
@@warriorson7979 Flawda lol
@@mirandaaldrich9616
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florida_panhandle
Florida is full of phosphorus. A negative ion. Maybe that’s why.
On the bright side you have a good start on a blueberry farm.
What if I'm trying to raise the ph , 4.9 ,5.1 5.5 ?this is where my soils are.
Calcium, magnesium carbonate
Dolomite
@@Maxindifference Hydrated Lime😂 that'll do it.
A ton of lime per acre I get it for $40 a ton from the farmers co-op.
What if you have massive calcium levels in your soil locking everything up?
Work on increasing soluble carbon in your soils. The soluble carbon will stimulate the soil microbiology and help increase nutrient cycling within the soil.
Would stripper front and no till disc seeding and full stubble retention gain us soluble carbon ? We are currently heading down that path
@@Bennfarming Yes, moving toward stripper fronts, no-till disc seeding, and full stubble retention can significantly contribute to increasing soluble carbon (available organic carbon) in your soil over time. These practices align well with regenerative principles and the Soil Food Web philosophy, promoting carbon cycling and microbial activity.
My soil ph is around 5.
That is to say that the best pH stabilizer are cover crops destroyed just before its maturation. It is the time where they contain the highest pourcentage of carbon in it. Besides these destroyed cover crops should be left on the surface and not mix with the soil in order to not destroy habitats and the microorganisms living in the soil which are responsible for the soil fertility. Less machines you use on your soil, less soil perturbation you will cause and better will be the fertility of the soil. You just have to observe how mother nature works and try to do the same. You must understand that nature knows a lot better than humans how to grow plants, so learn from mother nature, it is your best bet. More you will know about how nature does and more you will understand that regenerative agriculture is the only way to go to have a sustainable agriculture. You will also understand that you do not need any chemicals and the less machines possible to produce a good quality and quantity of plants.
Excelente
This description of pH is depressingly wrong
Why so?
@@MIRSTROY the lower the ph the more hydrogen ions. The higher the ph the more hydroxide ions. (Inwater)
Hydroxide is potential hydrogen isn't it? and free hydrogen is kinetic. Potential energy vs kinetic energy, potential means its there and has potential to be useful if oxygen can be freed from it, kinetic means it's active and in motion able to be used
Brilliant
It is not correct to say that the "p" in pH stands for "potential".
Power of Hydro gene 😊 Potent I ALL 😊
That's what I thought you didn't get to the point this is my first video I've seen of him within 45 seconds into the video I knew he was selling something because he wasn't telling you what to do until the end when he points to the boxes in the back and that's what he wants you to buy yeah no thank you like I didn't know this already but I don't need a sales pitch on every little thing just show me what I need to do and how to do it but oh yeah by the way by my product
Do you work for free?
My first time watching too BUT, his math us correct. Sry there is no 'just tell me what to do!' Soil is complex and diverse. But micro orgs are the foundation.
Man, what in the hell. Have we watched the same video? What are you talking about? That never happened
@backyardgrillmaster2910 🤨
Soil biology is the answer, stop dissing regenerative agriculture, all you want to do is sell your products.
Soil biology will be dictated by its environment.
If you read his content you would know that he is trying to give tools to create an environment for the biological process to work. Believe me I tried it with biology only.
Glen has the keys to regenerative agriculture and I’m very glad he can make a living while educating us
Thanks I get it now !
Great!
Would it be accurate to say 16 to 1 "organic carbon compounds to nitrogen, aids in soil respiration and fertility?
I understand biochar being pure carbon (mostly) is inert at normal soil temperatures.💯✌️🦚
Yes, your understanding is on the right track.