Take care of your EJ and know how to monitor and avoid knock and you're fine. Honestly it goes for any turbo motor. Boxers are just more vulnerable because of the piston being on its side. Dont let this scare you from a subie.
I cracked a piston in a 2.5 NA motor that was only at 5psi. If you hear knock... let off or shit might hit. NA pistons are very similar to turbo pistons and neither will take abuse if not setup with limits. If you are driving like you stole it, on an OEM block, that you are pushing to the limit with a tune, good chance it might break. Welcome to the world of automotive technology.
FA been great nearly 80,000km tuned from 2500km. Only issue will be carbon build up. I'll clean thr valves say at 100,000km. Car hasn't dropped oil at all. Always change oil at 5000km and the log book service when required. Best car I've owned. Previous car was APR Stage 2 GTI. Dropped oil all the time...
Detonation is pre ignition, meaning that the air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber is ignited before the spark plug ignites it, so the Piston is actually going up in the Powerstroke and now it's fighting to go up cause the air-fuel mixture is ignited but yet the Piston has to travel up during those explosions and that's the noise you hear the pinging sound as a piston is traveling up and fighting the explosions of pre ignition not by the spark plug, bad for the piston
After using basically the same engine for over a decade, you’d think Subaru would have figured out how to fix it in newer models… About to get a 2021 STI, hope the rings don’t fail.
Standard EJ does not have a sleeve. Actually even with built motors there is not enough material to set sleeves. The only reliable way to sleeve an EJ is in a $10k billet block. What you mean to say is cylinder walls. The cylinder walls are actually so thin and detached from the main outer material in the block, that’s why people get sealed deck blocks as to strengthen the cylinder walls so they don’t flex under heavy loads. I recommend MRTPerformance’s videos. They rebuild Subaru motors in all sorts of specs and give lots of great info.
I am planning to buy a 2012 WRX STI. Is there any way to check on ringland failure while testdriving? Maybe by the fact that the exhaust is smoking blue smoke? Or could this be a “normal” thing? Thnx in advance
What’s your take on ring gaps being a potential issue for causing ringland failure? I remember reading somewhere and my tuner showed me this as well, but oem ring gaps are pretty tight. If I remember it was like .0015 ring gap from the factory, on 16 psi from the factory (EJ255) it’s fine, but then modding and tuning to run 20 psi is where it gets questionable as more heat is going into that cylinder it’s expanding the rings and eventually that ring gap is gone and all that pressure has nowhere else to go but into the ring lands where it then cracks the piston. But yes detonation is the primary cause as a result of poor modding, driving, and tuning. People really are out here puttin holes in their Subaru pistons from their own bad practices….
Also.. you explained detonation not really what a cracked ring land is. Ring land failure is when too much heat gets to the rings, they expand too far due to heat and touch together
I always re-fuel at half empty tank, this reduces the risk that some random batch of bad fuel will cause engine detonation. Also,, I am out West, 91 octane is max here, when I know I am going to be pushing the car hard I add a bit of octane booster, not much, usually half the recommended dosage on bottle, just to add some layer of safety. The car is a 2013 Forester XT, ...I don't abuse it in any way but it sees some mountain driving and very prolonged turbo engagement on long steep inclines, ...hence my concern.
@@AutoEnthusiast Its a good idea to occasionally run a bottle of HEET or some small amount of methyl alcohol to get rid of any water condensation that may accumulate in the tank. "Bad gas" purchases are most likely related to water contamination also. Gasoline doesn't mix well with water.
I currently own a 2006 sti Hawkeye black on gold 👍🏽 I took owner ship of the car on September 2005 I was never educated on any Preventive maintenance 😩 Iv been driving the car till the current day as my daily needless to say after warranty was up timing belt and head gasket jobs never seemed to correct my oil issue turbo went at 100k it was I had that replaced with a stocker Cobb down pipe intake stage 2 I’m at 140k miles I consume about 8 quarts of oil in 3000 miles but she still runs 😂 😩 In desperate need to replace the block and do everything to prevent it from ever coming back
Not really. Turbocharged engines, especially in Subaru's, Honda's as well, are designed to rev out. maybe not all the way to redline. But it can be better to rev out and build boost in a safe rpm range.
@@AutoEnthusiast DUDE no, that's not how motors are designed at all. Rev limiter is cutting fuel, hence melting pistons and breaking ringlands left and right. The redline is literally just that, red is danger danger. Same shit happened In the 2000s when 4 stroke dirt bikes became mainstream. Kids used to driving a 2 stroke pinning the 4 strokes to the moon. Melting valves, dropping pistons and snapping rods left and right. Being a experienced rider and builder, my 2003 CRF450R still to this day, has the original valve shims and piston. Only replaced rings once due to I felt like it. AMA A rider here btw.
@1970 chevy chevelle ss If you're talking new WRX, they're not even running the engine he is referring to. They have much worse problems with connecting rods failing in the 300-400hp range due to them being slightly offset from center. Perfectly fine stock other than a giant hole in the power band.
Lol most of these "tuners" have zero grasp on mechanics. If you push a engine like a race car every time you drive it, expect to have the reliability of a race car.
Had an engine fail on me. Found out the hard way what knock was on my 2013 wrx. Broke engine block and 2 pistons. Had to rebuild engine completely $7500 parts and $4500 labor. After that yeah I check/change the oil religiously 😅
Damn for 12k I hope it was for an aftermarket closed deck block, forged internals and all the bells and whistles. If you paid 12k for a new OEM motor then.......
These are fairly reliable engines when driven and maintained as a sane individual. Change your oil every 3k miles +/- 1k. Change your oil before tracking or going on a long spirited cruises and check it after. Never go above 4k rpm on cold oil. Oil takes longer to heat up than coolant. Always get quality gasoline. Check if you need a tune before buying parts. If you run a COBB "Off The Shelf" map you need to monitor it on the accessport until you're positive it is stable for your setup. Never just assume parts will work with your tune or that your tune is good, verify it with data. If you're going to start modding the engine, an air/oil separator should be the first part as increased manifold pressure will cause more oil to be pushed into your intake exacerbating the issue considerably.
reboot0000 air/oil separator, oil cooler, equal length headers, and a quality protune. These guys will advance timing hard to get power out of there cars, and wonder why cylinders 2 or 4 burn up. You can thank long manifold runners on that side of the engine, holds heat in due to the UEL’s. Advancing timing leads to leaner mixtures. On those cylinders that leads to very high EAT’s which leads to burning a piston ring up.... don’t believe me throw a temp gun on the exhaust ports for 2/4 and then 1/3 and get back to me...
Like the vid BUT stop saying rodknock, rodknock is when the damage is already done and that damage is at the rod bearing not the oil ring. You are more likely talking about ping and pre-detination. PIng and knock NOT rodknock tend to crack the pistons, rings, damage the bearing causing rodknock and even bend the rods. Nonetheless very informative. Keep it up
Im at 44k miles on my sti. Stock with a full exhaust, no tune. Second owner bought it with 33k miles still under warranty love it and yes i daily this sti, i stuck with the sti over my focus rs which i am selling, ive been changing the oil every 3500 miles, i beat on it about a quarter of the time, but i live in a 4 season area so the weather is the only thing rough on my car, its a 2016 and i love it, my future mods are i plan to keep the body pretty much stock but i want to do a full build with full bolt ons making around 550
@@AutoEnthusiast to be honest the sti feels faster to me stock vs stock, the rs feels cheap. Makes a ton of noise, feels fast as well but it just feels like a cheap subaru knock off tbh, 350 vs 305 basically should explain it but the sti moves
Cameron Scott agreed. I test drove the RS and STI and although on paper the RS was supposed to deliver better performance I had a much better experience in the STI. 7,000 miles into my ‘18 with no regrets - it’s a great car if you really enjoy driving. And happy to report no issues whatsoever
@@myvalium1 the 2015 to 2019 wrx non sti in my opinion is even a better car than the rs.. . The rs that we had was garbage man... we live in northern indiana so we have all 4 seasons and we get it bad.... bought my 2016 base sti for 28500 with 33k miles all stock and under warranty it now has 45k less than 6 months later and i truly love it
So many Subie fans still in denial about these pistons. “If you do this or do that, of course this is gonna happen” etc. Regardless of how people are driving these cars, the fact is ringland failure is happening in disproportionate numbers over all other engines. It is the weak point of this engine. You can add all of these proactive measures or you can just drop in forged internals. Problem solved. The same people that are having this issue are the same people modding their cars and voiding their warranties anyway. So just get it done. Meanwhile any other issues with the car will still be covered. Blow a tranny? Crack a diff gear? Still covered. Nobody is checking your internals before they fix those or many other issues you may have. 2016 STi here. Forged rods and pistons. 40,000 miles and trouble free high boost rev happy ej. Great car.
staind039 They’re just engine stamps for the model of engine. EJ motors are the ones that have been around for a long time and in all Subaru’s up until recently. For instance, in the US WRXs had the EJ20 (2.0 liter) until 2006 and the EJ25 (2.5 liter) after that up until 2015 when it got the FA20DIT (2.0 liter) the STi has had the EJ25 in it since it’s been in the US. Newer non performance Subaru’s use the FB20.
@@AutoEnthusiast oil consumption test and told me it’s burning oil it should be normal and I should just do check ups that’s bull crap smh.. honestly I even asked facebooks big group they also said the same thing only two people out of 200 had this problem so they took it and they did the same they do the test they say it’s normal to burn even though they clearly told me over the phone it’s not lol smh what a joke bro literally just. Wanting a daily considering on getting a another car next year
Guys help! I have a 2019 WRX and I did a pull on the highway to about 125mph, and I got an 8.6 on the knock, and now I feel like it’s not making boost. Is ring land failure the likely cause, or do you think it’s a possible boost leak??
I suppose you are right, too early to tell. Subaru always claims to fix the ringland issue, and we will see in the coming months whether it is true or not. But for most EJs, its ringland.
Sorry bit I call bull$hit. Theres just not enough data to support that now the only thing to worry about are the rods. Stock ej rods are known to be good up to 400 WHP
The ej>fa period idc what anyone says ive had both, in stock form the sti is always better than the wrx, theyre 10k more and they hold value alot better than the wrxs, for every 3 wrxs made there is 1 sti made.... the semi low production numbers are why they will always hold their value
If you can get a one new I highly recommend it. Cause 99% of turbo Subaru owners beat the ish out of their cars and then get rid of them before they have to put money into them. Be careful 🙏
TheMetalGuy852 yeah, I know how to drive Manual! Trust me I won’t beat on it like others would because I plan on keeping it for a while ( it’ll be my daily)!!!! Thanks for the knowledge man
tbh... after having 2 WRXs and a 2006 STi. Dont get a STI. the real issue with the stis are the AFRs are always running lean and too rich. I got a completly stock sti and it would goto 13 to 14 after always, and it would run very learn between shifts. Then when i got my Tune the afrs were so hard to control. like keep a steady 14.7 afr at idle, or cruising. it was always running lean. and too rich. My only reliable subaru was my 2009 WRX. they car had Solid AFRs at all times. boosting, cruising and idle. my STI was the opposite. It also could still get a minimal amount of knock and would still destroy the engine. thats how weak they are. Just get a BMW. im very happy with my 2015 328i. and going to be soon trading it in for a m3 or a 335i :)
@@AutoEnthusiast you are correct, it's the younger crowd that haven't learned the most important mod of all. Driver mod !! Basically ringland failure is plagued by generation, if you're over let's say 30ish or just mature enough to know the Rev limiter is where your motor goes boom. Zero ringland failures will accure, facts are facts. Dealers report 95% ringland failure at full throttle being recorded on the ecm at the time of the failure. Only reason there is even talk of SOA replacing motors are the buyers are still kids, that's changing as prices will climb. Hopefully the next generation is in the $50k range to ward off the younger generation from purchasing a WRX or STI and further tarnishing the Subaru name. Plenty of older owner testimony, zero ringland failure pushing 150+k miles while the young kids are replacing a motor minimum every two years. Literally go to every subie forum, facts are plain to see if you really care to swallow the truth.
If you dont want STi then go for Newer WRX or other models. For STi.....wait when they will switch go FA24F for it in 2021 or 2022. Its a much better engine reliability wise
@@jameskocks4734 idk i had one and it just wasnt as fun in a stock(ish) form as an sti or rs, they get alot of carbon build up. Pretty much burn oil from break in, that was the one thing that worried me about my wrx was that carbon build up. The rods are weak as he said before, theyre reliable and great as dailys dont get me wrong i just had to dump mine while it still had low miles and was worth something, out of the wrx, sti, rs the only one i wanted to drive was the sti, i have been dailying my sti and piling the miles on it and its stock with an exhaust and i love it, i love the wrxs but i think i nay even get another one in the future with high miles and i may build the motor, idk im undecided but i know the fas are great motors bur theyre not perfect qnd they're certainly not greater than an ej, maybe as far as hp per liter and all that but im just not impressed by either the fa nor ej (by todays standards) im a little crazy about resale and like i said i was blown away by how much the wrxs depreciate vs how little the stis depreciate i guess thats the reason iam keeping this over my rs even
Very true but they are going in the right direction....slowly but still in the right direction. The fact that they are putting forged pistons and rods is a good sign. All they need now is a closed deck block and equal length headers and the majority of engine failures will disappear.
Simple explanation than this lacking rundown is weak. Its physics. The pistons go side to side the air fuel mixture pools at bottom of pistons and fires unevenly more explosive forces at bottom of pooled fuel thus stressing ringland at the bottom portion thus cracking ringland. Solution forged piston or new fuel delivery to evenly disperse a f mixture
Stop using shitty 87 pump gas problem solved. Turbo engine like it should run on 90 or 91 at very least. Something that is lowest grade in europe(their 95 octane is usa's 91-92 octane). When people use cheapest shitty 87 pump gas it will lead to knock in performance engines.
@@anthonyjones2637 lol faulty huh? Well, I dont plan on ricing it out so it should be just fine. All these stupid kids trying to make their daily driver into a race car then bitching when they get race car reliability. If the Lancer Evolution was so great they'd still be building it. Simple, common sense reasoning. 🙂
@@mopar21 dont talk about common sense when its widely known that people have blown up sti motors that are completely stock. They even have a recall currently on all stis because they have faulty motors. Its not about ricing it up. Subaru selling people garbage. The evo wasnt discontinued because it was a bad model. Mitsubishi wants to make fuel efficient cars only. The evo has worse gas mileage than a modern v8. As would an sti if it could actually not blow itself up stock.🤣
Take care of your EJ and know how to monitor and avoid knock and you're fine. Honestly it goes for any turbo motor. Boxers are just more vulnerable because of the piston being on its side. Dont let this scare you from a subie.
Side to side.....
Thanks for explaining this! I'm new to the performance side of Subaru so this is very helpful information for me! 👍🏻
thanks for watching! Much appreciated!
Explained very well thanks for the information
thanks for the info! well i definitely learn something new today ha!
@TheMetalGuy852 Exactly. Do not floor the throttle in the higher gears at too low of rpm.
Very knowledgeable dude. You speak with passion.. Love it mate! Subbed.
Thanks mate!
Thanks for this!
I cracked a piston in a 2.5 NA motor that was only at 5psi. If you hear knock... let off or shit might hit. NA pistons are very similar to turbo pistons and neither will take abuse if not setup with limits.
If you are driving like you stole it, on an OEM block, that you are pushing to the limit with a tune, good chance it might break. Welcome to the world of automotive technology.
FA been great nearly 80,000km tuned from 2500km. Only issue will be carbon build up. I'll clean thr valves say at 100,000km. Car hasn't dropped oil at all. Always change oil at 5000km and the log book service when required. Best car I've owned. Previous car was APR Stage 2 GTI. Dropped oil all the time...
Great video buddy 👍
Detonation is pre ignition, meaning that the air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber is ignited before the spark plug ignites it, so the Piston is actually going up in the Powerstroke and now it's fighting to go up cause the air-fuel mixture is ignited but yet the Piston has to travel up during those explosions and that's the noise you hear the pinging sound as a piston is traveling up and fighting the explosions of pre ignition not by the spark plug, bad for the piston
Sweepstakes giveaway!!! And I’m glad I’m hearing about this, and hope the fa20 won’t have that issue!!!
After using basically the same engine for over a decade, you’d think Subaru would have figured out how to fix it in newer models…
About to get a 2021 STI, hope the rings don’t fail.
there were slight changes in the EJ motor in 2019 after the big lawsuit. Purportedly, this has lessened the risk of internal engine failures
cant wait to see what Subaru does with the FA20
Standard EJ does not have a sleeve. Actually even with built motors there is not enough material to set sleeves. The only reliable way to sleeve an EJ is in a $10k billet block. What you mean to say is cylinder walls. The cylinder walls are actually so thin and detached from the main outer material in the block, that’s why people get sealed deck blocks as to strengthen the cylinder walls so they don’t flex under heavy loads. I recommend MRTPerformance’s videos. They rebuild Subaru motors in all sorts of specs and give lots of great info.
I am planning to buy a 2012 WRX STI. Is there any way to check on ringland failure while testdriving?
Maybe by the fact that the exhaust is smoking blue smoke? Or could this be a “normal” thing?
Thnx in advance
EJ motors biggest problem is the semi open deck block and the unequal length headers.
What’s your take on ring gaps being a potential issue for causing ringland failure? I remember reading somewhere and my tuner showed me this as well, but oem ring gaps are pretty tight. If I remember it was like .0015 ring gap from the factory, on 16 psi from the factory (EJ255) it’s fine, but then modding and tuning to run 20 psi is where it gets questionable as more heat is going into that cylinder it’s expanding the rings and eventually that ring gap is gone and all that pressure has nowhere else to go but into the ring lands where it then cracks the piston.
But yes detonation is the primary cause as a result of poor modding, driving, and tuning. People really are out here puttin holes in their Subaru pistons from their own bad practices….
Also.. you explained detonation not really what a cracked ring land is. Ring land failure is when too much heat gets to the rings, they expand too far due to heat and touch together
The more I learn
How to prevent bad things on your turbo subaru: If you modify the engine/exhaust/intake/turbo have a professional tune your car on a dyno.
I always re-fuel at half empty tank, this reduces the risk that some random batch of bad fuel will cause engine detonation. Also,, I am out West, 91 octane is max here, when I know I am going to be pushing the car hard I add a bit of octane booster, not much, usually half the recommended dosage on bottle, just to add some layer of safety. The car is a 2013 Forester XT, ...I don't abuse it in any way but it sees some mountain driving and very prolonged turbo engagement on long steep inclines, ...hence my concern.
The filling up before half is a great way to mitigate risk
I live in the wv hills my wrx on 93 amoco ultimate. Tried some shell from va.... car doesn't like it going back to bp.
@@AutoEnthusiast Its a good idea to occasionally run a bottle of HEET or some small amount of methyl alcohol to get rid of any water condensation that may accumulate in the tank. "Bad gas" purchases are most likely related to water contamination also. Gasoline doesn't mix well with water.
Hopefully my 2019 STi with the upgraded RA pistons will last the test of time :)
I hope it does, if this new block can handle load better, it will be a cheaper alt to a +$3k forged piston block. But it's still too early to know.
Is the 2016+ wrx sti engine still bad in reliability even when kept stock?
I currently own a 2006 sti Hawkeye black on gold 👍🏽 I took owner ship of the car on September 2005 I was never educated on any Preventive maintenance 😩 Iv been driving the car till the current day as my daily needless to say after warranty was up timing belt and head gasket jobs never seemed to correct my oil issue turbo went at 100k it was I had that replaced with a stocker Cobb down pipe intake stage 2 I’m at 140k miles I consume about 8 quarts of oil in 3000 miles but she still runs 😂 😩 In desperate need to replace the block and do everything to prevent it from ever coming back
8 quarts in 3k miles? That's fucking nuts
8qrts in 3k miles damn bro... Nothing will ever beat my 350 tho.. About 50qrts of oil every 3k fuck the oil change just make sure it has new oil 24/7
Tip: If you push the STI engine to redline everytime you change gears, your Pistons will fail
All engines will fail if you do this
Not really. Turbocharged engines, especially in Subaru's, Honda's as well, are designed to rev out. maybe not all the way to redline. But it can be better to rev out and build boost in a safe rpm range.
Auto Enthusiast do you have proof of this?
@@AutoEnthusiast DUDE no, that's not how motors are designed at all. Rev limiter is cutting fuel, hence melting pistons and breaking ringlands left and right. The redline is literally just that, red is danger danger. Same shit happened In the 2000s when 4 stroke dirt bikes became mainstream. Kids used to driving a 2 stroke pinning the 4 strokes to the moon. Melting valves, dropping pistons and snapping rods left and right. Being a experienced rider and builder, my 2003 CRF450R still to this day, has the original valve shims and piston. Only replaced rings once due to I felt like it. AMA A rider here btw.
@1970 chevy chevelle ss If you're talking new WRX, they're not even running the engine he is referring to. They have much worse problems with connecting rods failing in the 300-400hp range due to them being slightly offset from center. Perfectly fine stock other than a giant hole in the power band.
Lol most of these "tuners" have zero grasp on mechanics. If you push a engine like a race car every time you drive it, expect to have the reliability of a race car.
Had an engine fail on me. Found out the hard way what knock was on my 2013 wrx. Broke engine block and 2 pistons. Had to rebuild engine completely $7500 parts and $4500 labor. After that yeah I check/change the oil religiously 😅
Sorry to hear it! All out of pocket?
For that price, you should be able to get a longblock that can hold around 800hp.
Please tell me those are aftermarket parts
Damn for 12k I hope it was for an aftermarket closed deck block, forged internals and all the bells and whistles. If you paid 12k for a new OEM motor then.......
Literally same
ringland is one thing that worries me owning a 2017 sti
scares me enough to consider not getting one, agreed
It should
These are fairly reliable engines when driven and maintained as a sane individual. Change your oil every 3k miles +/- 1k. Change your oil before tracking or going on a long spirited cruises and check it after. Never go above 4k rpm on cold oil. Oil takes longer to heat up than coolant. Always get quality gasoline. Check if you need a tune before buying parts. If you run a COBB "Off The Shelf" map you need to monitor it on the accessport until you're positive it is stable for your setup. Never just assume parts will work with your tune or that your tune is good, verify it with data. If you're going to start modding the engine, an air/oil separator should be the first part as increased manifold pressure will cause more oil to be pushed into your intake exacerbating the issue considerably.
reboot0000 air/oil separator, oil cooler, equal length headers, and a quality protune. These guys will advance timing hard to get power out of there cars, and wonder why cylinders 2 or 4 burn up. You can thank long manifold runners on that side of the engine, holds heat in due to the UEL’s. Advancing timing leads to leaner mixtures. On those cylinders that leads to very high EAT’s which leads to burning a piston ring up.... don’t believe me throw a temp gun on the exhaust ports for 2/4 and then 1/3 and get back to me...
the "engine knock" you speak of is not the same as a rod knock. 2 totally different issues
Like the vid BUT stop saying rodknock, rodknock is when the damage is already done and that damage is at the rod bearing not the oil ring. You are more likely talking about ping and pre-detination. PIng and knock NOT rodknock tend to crack the pistons, rings, damage the bearing causing rodknock and even bend the rods. Nonetheless very informative. Keep it up
What happpens when you are on 4th during wot and you start hearing a knock rasping noice while you rev it ? I think that happen to my sti just now
Rip
Im at 44k miles on my sti. Stock with a full exhaust, no tune. Second owner bought it with 33k miles still under warranty love it and yes i daily this sti, i stuck with the sti over my focus rs which i am selling, ive been changing the oil every 3500 miles, i beat on it about a quarter of the time, but i live in a 4 season area so the weather is the only thing rough on my car, its a 2016 and i love it, my future mods are i plan to keep the body pretty much stock but i want to do a full build with full bolt ons making around 550
So you are keeping the sti over the focus rs?? Which do you feel is faster stock? (from the butt dyno lol)
@@AutoEnthusiast to be honest the sti feels faster to me stock vs stock, the rs feels cheap. Makes a ton of noise, feels fast as well but it just feels like a cheap subaru knock off tbh, 350 vs 305 basically should explain it but the sti moves
Cameron Scott agreed. I test drove the RS and STI and although on paper the RS was supposed to deliver better performance I had a much better experience in the STI. 7,000 miles into my ‘18 with no regrets - it’s a great car if you really enjoy driving. And happy to report no issues whatsoever
@@myvalium1 the 2015 to 2019 wrx non sti in my opinion is even a better car than the rs..
. The rs that we had was garbage man... we live in northern indiana so we have all 4 seasons and we get it bad.... bought my 2016 base sti for 28500 with 33k miles all stock and under warranty it now has 45k less than 6 months later and i truly love it
Not over boosting with full exhaust on stock ECU? You should be going lean from too much boost unless you think a cat back is full exhaust.
So what is a normal oil consumption on STi’s? I noticed my 2017 burning 1qt 1/2 in 3k miles, is that a lot?
That seems excessive. I recommend Motul 8100 excess 5-40. Never run Mobil 1
So many Subie fans still in denial about these pistons. “If you do this or do that, of course this is gonna happen” etc. Regardless of how people are driving these cars, the fact is ringland failure is happening in disproportionate numbers over all other engines. It is the weak point of this engine. You can add all of these proactive measures or you can just drop in forged internals. Problem solved. The same people that are having this issue are the same people modding their cars and voiding their warranties anyway. So just get it done. Meanwhile any other issues with the car will still be covered. Blow a tranny? Crack a diff gear? Still covered. Nobody is checking your internals before they fix those or many other issues you may have.
2016 STi here. Forged rods and pistons. 40,000 miles and trouble free high boost rev happy ej. Great car.
Thinking about buying a 2015 STI with a built block honestly and callin it a day 😂
Giveaway some forged pistons. Makes more
sense.
Rod knock and engine knock are two very different things
What does EJ mean ? And FA for the newer motors ?
staind039 They’re just engine stamps for the model of engine. EJ motors are the ones that have been around for a long time and in all Subaru’s up until recently. For instance, in the US WRXs had the EJ20 (2.0 liter) until 2006 and the EJ25 (2.5 liter) after that up until 2015 when it got the FA20DIT (2.0 liter) the STi has had the EJ25 in it since it’s been in the US. Newer non performance Subaru’s use the FB20.
Adam Walters gotcha... didn’t know the EJ or FA was just an abbreviation of something relative to the motor
My 2020 wrx sti is burning a quart after 1800 miles is that normal just making sure. It is really hot in Florida at the moment
Uh no, I don't think so, Sounds like potentially ringland failure. I would bring the issue up with a dealer.
@@AutoEnthusiast that freaking sucks i haven’t even beat on it or anything that’s so crazy smh... well ima set up an appointment
Yeah definitely take it in! Let me know what happens!
@@AutoEnthusiast oil consumption test and told me it’s burning oil it should be normal and I should just do check ups that’s bull crap smh.. honestly I even asked facebooks big group they also said the same thing only two people out of 200 had this problem so they took it and they did the same they do the test they say it’s normal to burn even though they clearly told me over the phone it’s not lol smh what a joke bro literally just. Wanting a daily considering on getting a another car next year
@@santostuner Did anyone run a compression test on your motor yet?
Guys help! I have a 2019 WRX and I did a pull on the highway to about 125mph, and I got an 8.6 on the knock, and now I feel like it’s not making boost. Is ring land failure the likely cause, or do you think it’s a possible boost leak??
Ring land failure is not the biggest concern now that the 2019 STI comes with better pistons. The rods are the biggest concern now in EJs
I suppose you are right, too early to tell. Subaru always claims to fix the ringland issue, and we will see in the coming months whether it is true or not. But for most EJs, its ringland.
Sorry bit I call bull$hit. Theres just not enough data to support that now the only thing to worry about are the rods. Stock ej rods are known to be good up to 400 WHP
@SanchoKlos driving habits?
@SanchoKlos well damn, i hope that doesn't happen to mine haha
@SanchoKlos probably drove it like they should be riding the short bus.
The ej>fa period idc what anyone says ive had both, in stock form the sti is always better than the wrx, theyre 10k more and they hold value alot better than the wrxs, for every 3 wrxs made there is 1 sti made.... the semi low production numbers are why they will always hold their value
Yes true in ‘stock’ form but at least you can mod an FA20 motor with some peace of mind unlike the EJ. I’m taking out STi’s and mustang cobras 😂
Yooo, plan on getting a Subaru WRX soon!!! Do you think it’s a good first car?
I mean it is a great car. If you can swing it financially do it!
If you can get a one new I highly recommend it. Cause 99% of turbo Subaru owners beat the ish out of their cars and then get rid of them before they have to put money into them. Be careful 🙏
hell no. unless its new under warranty.
a p yeah most 99.9 percent sure if I get one it’ll be new!
TheMetalGuy852 yeah, I know how to drive Manual! Trust me I won’t beat on it like others would because I plan on keeping it for a while ( it’ll be my daily)!!!! Thanks for the knowledge man
Ka boom
0:44 Are we talking about a boxer engine here?🤔
I only use 93 octane, stock tune and cyl 4 cooling mod with An AOS in the plans I can’t get ring failure 😅
tbh... after having 2 WRXs and a 2006 STi.
Dont get a STI. the real issue with the stis are the AFRs are always running lean and too rich. I got a completly stock sti and it would goto 13 to 14 after always, and it would run very learn between shifts. Then when i got my Tune the afrs were so hard to control. like keep a steady 14.7 afr at idle, or cruising. it was always running lean. and too rich. My only reliable subaru was my 2009 WRX. they car had Solid AFRs at all times. boosting, cruising and idle. my STI was the opposite. It also could still get a minimal amount of knock and would still destroy the engine. thats how weak they are. Just get a BMW. im very happy with my 2015 328i. and going to be soon trading it in for a m3 or a 335i :)
Only makes me think not getting a Suburu!
Sometimes its worth the risk! They are amazing cars when you are behind the wheel
Buy a new one, follow break in procedures, change the damn oil and don't drive it like an idiot.
Ring land failure is easily prevented if you know how to care for your EJ.
How to prevent ringland failure, learn to drive. Stop throwing bolt on power adders without going into the block. Stop getting ots tunes !!
Tons of people are experiencing it stock.
@@AutoEnthusiast you are correct, it's the younger crowd that haven't learned the most important mod of all. Driver mod !! Basically ringland failure is plagued by generation, if you're over let's say 30ish or just mature enough to know the Rev limiter is where your motor goes boom. Zero ringland failures will accure, facts are facts. Dealers report 95% ringland failure at full throttle being recorded on the ecm at the time of the failure. Only reason there is even talk of SOA replacing motors are the buyers are still kids, that's changing as prices will climb. Hopefully the next generation is in the $50k range to ward off the younger generation from purchasing a WRX or STI and further tarnishing the Subaru name. Plenty of older owner testimony, zero ringland failure pushing 150+k miles while the young kids are replacing a motor minimum every two years. Literally go to every subie forum, facts are plain to see if you really care to swallow the truth.
@@AutoEnthusiast prime example, kids will blow a IAG 2.5 tough block in less then 25k miles. That's just pure abuse and no driver skills at all.
@@Hanibul_Lecktor well said. The WRX is an awesome vehicle but the following, for the most part, is embarrassing.
So should I buy a Subaru then?
Mike jones go for an evo
If you dont want STi then go for Newer WRX or other models. For STi.....wait when they will switch go FA24F for it in 2021 or 2022. Its a much better engine reliability wise
thank god for the FA motor
yes and no, the connecting rods are a daunting problem
The fa motors arent that great
@@camdoge622 ok how so?
@@AutoEnthusiast ive read that those rods candle up to 350 torque to the ground depending on tuner.
@@jameskocks4734 idk i had one and it just wasnt as fun in a stock(ish) form as an sti or rs, they get alot of carbon build up. Pretty much burn oil from break in, that was the one thing that worried me about my wrx was that carbon build up. The rods are weak as he said before, theyre reliable and great as dailys dont get me wrong i just had to dump mine while it still had low miles and was worth something, out of the wrx, sti, rs the only one i wanted to drive was the sti, i have been dailying my sti and piling the miles on it and its stock with an exhaust and i love it, i love the wrxs but i think i nay even get another one in the future with high miles and i may build the motor, idk im undecided but i know the fas are great motors bur theyre not perfect qnd they're certainly not greater than an ej, maybe as far as hp per liter and all that but im just not impressed by either the fa nor ej (by todays standards) im a little crazy about resale and like i said i was blown away by how much the wrxs depreciate vs how little the stis depreciate i guess thats the reason iam keeping this over my rs even
After 10 years we still have to talk about ringland failures, that sucks. In 10 years Subaru just continued to build the same shit xD
Very true but they are going in the right direction....slowly but still in the right direction. The fact that they are putting forged pistons and rods is a good sign. All they need now is a closed deck block and equal length headers and the majority of engine failures will disappear.
We need a ej207 over here. Forged semi closed deck, twin scroll/EL’s, 8000 rpm screamer...
Simple explanation than this lacking rundown is weak. Its physics. The pistons go side to side the air fuel mixture pools at bottom of pistons and fires unevenly more explosive forces at bottom of pooled fuel thus stressing ringland at the bottom portion thus cracking ringland. Solution forged piston or new fuel delivery to evenly disperse a f mixture
Stop using shitty 87 pump gas problem solved. Turbo engine like it should run on 90 or 91 at very least. Something that is lowest grade in europe(their 95 octane is usa's 91-92 octane). When people use cheapest shitty 87 pump gas it will lead to knock in performance engines.
sounds like Subaru needs to fire the engineers that designed it....smh
Fuck my 2008 STi burn to much oil
d
So basically don’t get a Subaru
What you need to know. Buy A AMG
* laughs in evo x * as i watch this video and remember all the subie fanboys claiming evos arent reliable.
Well I guess I'll have to go to the Mitsubishi dealer and get me an Evo since they are so great...oh what the...
@@mopar21 go to subaru they'll gladly sell you a faulty motor. Meanwhile my discontinued evo still runs perfect.
@@anthonyjones2637 lol faulty huh? Well, I dont plan on ricing it out so it should be just fine. All these stupid kids trying to make their daily driver into a race car then bitching when they get race car reliability. If the Lancer Evolution was so great they'd still be building it. Simple, common sense reasoning. 🙂
@@mopar21 dont talk about common sense when its widely known that people have blown up sti motors that are completely stock. They even have a recall currently on all stis because they have faulty motors. Its not about ricing it up. Subaru selling people garbage. The evo wasnt discontinued because it was a bad model. Mitsubishi wants to make fuel efficient cars only. The evo has worse gas mileage than a modern v8. As would an sti if it could actually not blow itself up stock.🤣
@@anthonyjones2637 please cite the V8 that gets that good of gas mileage.
Maybe kids will stop blowing up motors when mommy and daddy are done sponsoring their "race car".