After watching your video I bought some of this. I use it inside a small LiPoSafe battery case to keep batteries warm. I feed 200mA/1.5W through a 1m piece using a constant current supply. The voltage is around 7.3v when doing this. With this power the wire reaches about 15-20C over ambient which is great. In use it generates just enough heat so that the small case stay warm when also inside a camera bag. I also tried using the wire directly across a 2S protected Lipo cell which works great and is more often used. Current starts about 8.4v/230mA/2W and drops off from there. The battery protection providing a safe cut-off when needed. The advantage with this is it's just a wire and a battery. No extra stuff to go wrong. Running off a 3S Lipo pack the power is 12.6v/350mA/4.5w which brings the temperature up to about 40-45C above ambient. I terminated my wire by soldering a wire to a diode's leg off-cut and pushing it down the insulation tube. Tightening the sleeve with a cable tie made the connection pretty solid. I covered over the ends with two-part Epoxy. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. Added more in response to someone below... Just did a quick test: 1M of filament tested at a room temperature of 20C. 4 turns of filament looped about 8cm diameter sitting on the desk in open air. K-Type thermocouple taped to the wire. Voltage/Current/Wattage/TemperatureRise: 8.4v/230mA/2W/+20c 12.6v/350mA/4.5w/+35c 20v/590mA/11W/+85c 25v/750mA/19W/+125c Started to smoke slightly. Maybe was my heatshrink giving up. :-) 32v/1A/32W/+ 170C... Yeah. Unhappy heatshrink was smoking nicely.
Good Day, PIX, and Thank You for your reply to Big Clive. I am experimenting wih CF and your posting contains some very necessary information I am happy to keep handy going forward. No more Grenfells.
All I did was set an external power supply over the test cable and measure the power drawn. I don't have any more details at this stage as it was all done so long ago.
As a physician and now patient, I love your analogy of the lung being like a capacitor in that it requires large immense surface area for gas exchange equivalent to charge. That is "Brilliant"...Thanks Clive.
Air filters also work. Your car uses a folded up air filter to get more surface area, because the folds and bumps increase surface area (which is a good thing for a filter). If it was just a round sheet, it wouldn't be nearly as efficient or long lasting. Same with sponges. All the pores and space inside increase the surface area and ability to hold water.
air filters are a poor anaology because air filters work better as they get clogged until they reach a critical point... it's part of the design of air filters. lungs on the other hand never work better as they get clogged.
Years ago I made a heated motorcycle vest. I used 30 gauge 7 strand Teflon coated wire. I think I remember that 20 feet of wire at 12 volts has 100 watts. So for less than $5 and that price of a vest, I had a $100 vest. During WW2, they used that same technology for heated flight suites.
@@andrewcurtin7003 carbon is conductive.. so carbon tape might be easier and smoother. www.instructables.com/id/DIY-carbon-heated-gloves-1/ ruclips.net/video/UZNdk-CfN0U/видео.html
Terminating is done by window stripping the end, as you do with litz wire, then wind a single strand of wire around the bunch of fibres. The excess can now be clipped off and the smaller ferrule slipped on and crimped. Although you don't normally do it, I crimp the plastic part of the ferrule as well. Thanks for the great Vids BTW.
Flammability test, you light the bottom and see if the flame propagates up after heat is removed. To pass the test, it must self-extinguish within seconds of the external heat source being removed. That cable looks like a flammability fail as it sustained a flame for far too long despite being held horizontally instead of vertically.
Teardown Dan His was obviously not the official lab test. Anyway, most regulations require stuff to self-extinguish in a certain number of seconds (like 30s), while other regulations demand they use the minimum possible amount of potentially toxic flame-retardent ingredients. So materials like this wire are usually manufactured at exactly the maximum permitted flammability.
@John 94V-0 is by far the most common flammability standard in electrical applications worldwide and for that one, the sample burns vertically from the bottom and must put itself out within 10 seconds from removing external heat. That wire might be 94HB (horizontal burn) at best. I suppose that's kind of acceptable considering that it is meant to be put in cement/concrete floors where compatibility with concrete may be a greater concern than flammability.
Amateur astronomers sometimes use wire like this to warm up optics that are exposed to the night sky ever so slightly, to keep them from dewing up and obscuring the view. But those tend to run at 12V, only a couple of watts/m, because you don't want to have too much heat, which would cause turbulence.
I've read that silver glue is good for terminating carbon heating ropes. I also came across a rather unusual carbon glue, which seems to be very fine graphite particles suspended in a water-soluble adhesive. I have some carbon fibre strips (about 15mm wide, 1m long) and the carbon glue and silver glue both work great for connecting the carbon fibre strip to a copper wire or bus bar.
Thank you so much for posting this. I am intrigued by this idea, as there seems to be practically NO information on the Internet about terminating these cables. (Or, perhaps I have not yet divined the right search phrase...) In any event, your idea seems to have potential. I presume these glues are electrically conductive, so I suppose my next big concern would be their heat tolerance, but I will look more into it myself. Thanks again!
Lets say you want to put this cable in a house of 100 m2. If you make a distance between the cables 10cm, you would need 1000m of this cable. Lets say I want to run it on 4w per meter. I expect with 4w the cable would be 30°C. And if you spread it with 10cm, the tile would be around 20°C. If 1000m of this cable is heating, that would be 4w×1000m=4kW If you run this 5 hours a day for a month, its 4kWh×5h×30d=600kWh If 1kWh is 0.20 euro cent. That would be 120 euro a month. But you probably dont have to heat up the whole house for 5 hours every day. Benefit of Infrared heating is that you only have to turn in on in the room you are in, so lets say we are warming up 25m2 for 5 hours. That would be only 30 euro a month. Dont forget, you need to set this cable up in a parallel connection. To make it 4w per meter, it needs to be 20m. So you need multiple cables of 20m setup in parallel connection. W/meter=U×U÷(m×Ohm)÷m =230V×230V÷(20m×33Ohm):20m = 4w per meter
Although this is an "old" video, I just wanted to share that I have had good results terminating this carbon fibre cable with "Wago 222 Style" connectors on 12v DC. (A lot easier than ferrule crimping, and reusable if needed). The Wagos are good for connecting fairly short lengths in parallel to get good heating on 12v. (Heated car seats, cold morning windscreen defrosting (place over the windscreen air vent of a cold engine with the fan running, etc.)
The difference between fibreglass and asbestos is the glass fibres break laterally so their length decreases whereas the asbestos fibres split longitudinally.
I'd say it's a considerably lower health risk but I still wouldn't recommend inhaling a load of glass fibre just like I wouldn't recommend inhaling iron fillings or sawdust.
I heard one researcher report that they were able to induce lung cancer in rats from fiberglass but they basically had to "pack the rat with the stuff".
This reminds me of how carbon spark plug wires are connected. I have seen various methods but most oftern the carbon fibers are folded back over the insulation and the metal crimp ends crimped over both.
so how many feet of wire per sq. ft./ or what was average spacing between passes? what are you using for power supply / thermostat? how many feet of unbroken wire vs. parallel installations? What kind of termination technology to cold wire did you use? Does anyone have a detail for installing this under click floor without screed or thinset although that could be the best for heat transfer, but I've also seen putative details with reflective layer under the cable, e.g. aluminum foil, and poly sheet over it and click floor directly but the cable is about an 1/8" thick so i don't know how it managed the load and if there are enough passes and the flooring runs perpendicular to those passes, perhaps that is still a simple and functional install. how did you hold the cable down before screed and tile were placed?
I did a ride along with a fire department for a shift and I learned that people used to put this sort of heating system in their ceilings. I don't remember why people thought you should heat from the ceiling down but I do remember them explaining how much of a hazard those systems are.
My uncle used to live in an apartment complex (built in the 1990s) that had ceiling-heated units. He was on the 2nd floor, and I remember during a blizzard he had every window open and was walking around with no shirt on because it was over 80 degrees and the downstairs tenant was suffering from her unit in the 50s. Epic fail on the builders, it would have been more efficient for the first floor units to have electric baseboard heat instead. On the up side, he never had to turn on his heat, ever, while he lived there.
We had a home with the 120v in ceiling radiant heat. It had previously been added during a large extension project (in the 70's) as well as the requisite ceiling fans to help. It was only helpful when the wood stove couldn't keep up with -12F and leaking windows.
And here i am trying to persuade my sister that her idea of installing ceiling-heating is retarded but she won't listen. (No, not in an old building - they are currently building a new house)
hi clive great video. How would you vary or reduce the heat output of this if it had a fixed length of say 10m while reducing the power used? cheers o/
I'm not sure what the power output at 10m would be. Depending on the heat required it may be viable to add a capacitor in series or a diode for half wave to halve the power.
Fascinating! A doubled length of this stuff in the condensate drainpipe of a condensing boiler, fed from a 12 or 24 volt thermostatically controlled PSU would prevent freezing of the drainpipe and alleviate a common problem with this type of boiler in winter.
so would you recommend this for heating up a wood laminate? or only tile? the ebay seller had this info: Product power calculation: (voltage × voltage) ÷ (resistance × length) = power For example: 12K carbon fiber 10 meters length (per metre 12K 33 ohms, 24K18.5 ohms) 220V × 220V ÷ (10 meters × 33 ohms) = 150 watts For example: 24K carbon fiber 10 meters length 220V × 220V ÷ (10 meters × 18.5 ohms) = 261 watts The above data shows that the longer the length of the heater wre is, the smaller the power of the heater wire is. (The product temperature is subject to actual use.) Multiple heating lines can be used in parallel, so that the power is increased! Length: (custom, recommendation of not less than 10 meters) 12K recommended to use 10-15 meters (12k outer diameter 2.0MM) power 150W-100W 24K recommended to use 10-14 meters (24k outer diameter 2.2MM) power 280W-200W Note: The heating wires can't overlap when they are used, and they can't cross. The overlapping overlap will make the local temperature of the heating wire higher than the melting point of the protective layer, and the temperature will be too high to burn the heating wire sheath.
Well, this just cost me about $30 for six jaw crimper and ferrule assortment pack. Between Big Clive's videos and the machinist videos I watch, I manage to stay pretty well broke every month.
Reminds me of the 'Nightmare decorators of Lairg'. The 'Big house' I once caretook had booked them to plaster scollop the ceiling and wallpaper the living room and, as ever, they arrived at the very last minute to do the job, rushed it, threw plaster and wallpaper paste EVERYWHERE and left the night before the owners were due. So I had to pull an all nighter to get the place clean and ready for the owner. Every door handle, toilet pull, light switch, window handle and trapes up and down the stairs, even in the fridge? I had to clean and scrape off plaster and hard set glue. The windows were splattered and the dust from the plaster mixing was everywhere. They had clearly mixed in every single room for some reason.... BUT the thing that really really pissed me off is they had found a roll of mains cable and the box of plugs and sockets which the 'Mannie' had asked me to make up various extension leads with after this visit and he had told me where they were for. They had found that, put a plug on one end and a socket on the other then run a fan heater with to fast dry the plaster and wallpaper while the most of it was still coiled up. Two thirds of the roll just melted together like you describe and ended up in the bin. Bastards!
Thanks for this episode of inspiration and answering the obvious Q+As. Your suggestions for making it safe to use earns you 10/10! Trying to learn racing quads at the moment on the Costa del UK. Great but less if you are freezing. Since the pilots already strap on a large 3s lipo to power their FPV goggles, a nice pair of heated gloves under 5W would be an easy hack. We also suffer from cold lipos. Using a lipo below 10 Deg C can cause permanent damage to cells. Racing packs are not cheap.
Looks like Fanny Flambeau LTD have already made a recharchable muff warmer. www.flambeauoutdoors.com/Heated-Gear/Hand-Muff. Have I missed any ladypart euphemisms?
An easy way to test for emergent fibres would be to immerse the coil, apart from the ends, in a metal bowl of salty water and checking for continuity between the bowl and the ends.
I use a very similar product in commercial grocery store equipment. Door frames of frozen food cases. Heater for glass on display cases. Door frames on walk in boxes. Stores have MILES of this heater. The normal failure point is at the crimp connection to the copper wire. The wire we use is white. Fiberglass core. It was my understanding the it is the wire wrapped around the fiber core that is what heats up.
A year or so ago I took apart a broken portable air purifier (not mine) intended to be kept in your car, and it had a potted box with what I now realize was carbon fiber strands in a rubber sleeve coming out of it - thanks for solving that mystery. I thought it must be generating high voltages inside the potting, presumably for ozone generation, but I couldn't figure how the plastic-like brush was helpful.
Have you tried to solder it? You could also test for stray strands poking through by immersing it in salted water or another conductive liquid while running a voltage across it and measure any conductivity to the water/liquid.
By the type of combustion and that white ash, I can say that this insulation is 100% silicone polymer. By the way, its redish-brown colour is quite similar to heat resistant silicone gasket material for automobiles
That's very naughty since they're claiming it's PTFE. I've ordered 20 metres of it though and will make sure I have secondary fire protection since I won't be embedding it in concrete ...
The crimper is obviously a fast and conveniently used tool for terminating this wire. I imagine an optimal crimper would exert crushing force at the tip. Moving further back along the fibres, the force would decrease progressively down to next to nothing. Tapering serrated jaws would do it, if you see what I mean. At some point along the crimp, the force would be optimal. Great demonstration of a new product; thanks.
For terminations we used to use a crimp that was similar to how you would make custom high performance spark plug wires.You would strip it and fold it back onto the rubber coating and the crimp went on top of that.It's tough to explain but if you've ever pulled a plug wire apart you'd understand.
I live in the arctic. The big extra high beam lights on my car has a lip on the frame around the outer glass, where snow and ice will stick. Won't stick to the glass much, but it collects down in that lip, and then builds up while driving until it covers the whole glass. Not a lot of heat to go around, with a 35w HID bulb and a 8" wind-chiled glass surface. I got some 14 ohm/m of this stuff, wrapped 2 parallel lengths of this inside the bezel frame, and hot glued it in place. Heats up that troublesome lip with about 30 watts total, now the snow and ice melt before it has a chance to build.
Someone I know had some underfloor electric heating fitted into thier kitchen. I know the whole room uses 1.2kw, and does nothing much to heat the room, but it does definately feel nice. So long as feet are warm, it's surprising how much that makes a difference to overall temperature of one's self. Still prefer my open coal fire though.
That was either a long time ago, or a terrible install. My family has a house in New Hampshire, and when I was up there at the end of December/beginning of January, it was between -17° and slowly rose to 23° F after about 5 days. (-27° to -5° C) The 4200 sq. ft. house was heated ONLY with radiant floor heating powered by a outdoor wood furnace boiler. It was VERY warm; even with vaulted ceilings. It doesn't get much cooler than that, and it was amazing. Granted the outdoor boiler was big money, the money he saved from heating oil, propane (Propane boilers to power radiant floor heating is not nearly as efficient.), wood was enough to pay for the entire system over two years. It also has a blower to heat the house through central ducting, if it's really cold. The trick is to get the thermal mass of the entire house and its contents warm at the beginning of winter, and keep it that way. Trying to cool the thermal mass of an entire 4200 sq. ft. house, after it has gotten cold, with radiant floor heating alone, is near impossible. If it gets warm for a week, you can turn it off, and then when it gets cold you can use the radiant with the blower, and get it hot again, then phase out the blower. It takes a REALLY long time to change the temp of a thermal mass that large though. The valves, of the radiant system, leading to different parts of the house can be closed/opened, to direct where you want the heat. They can program it to open the valves that lead to the driveway radiant heating, a couple hours before work, so that the driveway is ice free.
You can't beat a direct fire for heat. My sis bought some of that heated floor stuff for by her back sliding glass door. I advised she use it in the downstairs bathroom and she is very glad she did so.
Radiant systems are designed to function on convection. Great for interior bathrooms, terrible for main entryways. (source: I used to sell tile and the heating systems for it)
Another fascinating video Clive. You may be interested to know that there is carbon cement available. I think it’s epoxy based with carbon nanotubes mixed in. It is used to bond carbon fibre panels together in the aviation industry where we need a conducting joint for lightning protection and static charge dissipation. Perhaps it could be used in a ferrule to join the fragile fibre. Just a thought.
Just wrapped a 2m tape looked like made from four strands of this stuff round a pipe in my garage. Burst in the cold second time in ten years. Will eventually link up to a thermo-controller but for now is on a timer, on 15 mins in every hour... same colour too.
I love unusual heating elements! I for one would love to see your take on other heating tech if you come across something during your online escapades :)
The wire I have can go to max 18W per meter. You cut it to what you need without exceeding 18W/m. I got 66ohm/m wire and installed 15x 5m lengths into my floor, I terminated the same. That's about 2.4KW@230V in floor heating. Regulated with a thermostat. Works great.
Speaking of having fine fibers pierce your skin. I've actually had regular human hair pierce my skin before. The one time I pulled a hair out from my toe that had embedded itself a good 1/8-1/4in. I read up on it and apparently barbers get hair slivers quite often. It's also common with owners of dogs with coarse hair.
@@bigsaggyvaag I don't think it would actually grow out of your wrist. More likely it's just a bunch of hair slivers. The reason I say this is, imagine it's like an organ transplant, right. You're taking tissue, in this case hair follicles, from someone else and putting them in your body. When your body's immune system sees it, it sees it as a potentially dangerous invader and attacks the foreign tissue. Which is why people who have organ transplants have to take immunosuppressant drugs to weaken their immune system and prevent it from attacking the transplanted organ. But more so, the actual hair follicle is part of the skin, not the hair itself. It's a common misconception that the white bulb at the end of a hair you pull out is the follicle. But if that were the case, the hair would stop growing once you pull that bulb out. And it would certainly make permanent hair removal a lot easier. I mean, if that were the case, waxing hair would mean it wouldn't grow back at all. If you look at a diagram of a hair follicle with the hair in it, you can see the follicle needs a blood supply and has sebaceous glands which produce oil and even little muscles that causes goosebumps and makes the hair stand on end. It's a lot more than just the little bulb. Which I'll provide a picture of here for your convenience: activilong.com/img/cms/2anatomie_cuirchevelu_EN.jpg But all of this is why when you get hair transplant surgery for baldness, they have to take a whole bunch of little plugs of skin which contain several hairs out of one part of your body, usually the back of your head, and transplant it to the part of your head that's missing hair. Which btw, for your own good DO NOT look up pictures of this. Hair plug surgery is absolutely disgusting looking. Especially if you have trypophobia. You know, that fear of holes that was a viral thing for a brief time. I've seen all sorts of different surgeries over my life (in video) and there are only 2 that ever really bothered me. Hair plug surgery, and vasectomies. So that should give you an idea of how nasty it is. lol. Anyways, I didn't mean to come off as being pedantic or trivialize your barber's claim. I just really love learning stuff and sharing that stuff with people whenever I get a chance. So I hope you found this enlightening and interesting more than condescending. It wasn't my intention to be condescending. Cheers, buddy. And take care. Especially with the pandemic. =)
Thank you so much for posting this video, along with the circuit readings! Regarding exo-wear technology - In space (North Dakota) no one can hear you freeze. I am experimenting with different 'strands' of carbon filament. Thank you again for your videos!
I've got this stuff in my gutters. I have 50m of it on 110v. It runs down 25 meters and comes back to a plug. It draws about 8 watts. This will be the 1st year I use it. I don't think it's going to be enough to keep ice from forming in my gutters and downspouts.
Hi Clive I was wondering with Ozone generators if you can use them to remove the smell from towels. Like if you put them in a zip-lock and let it "soak" for a while. I also wonder if it would bleach them well
There are commercial laundry systems that do that. They either tumble clothing in ozonated air or diffuse it through the water as an alternative to detergent.
i do not know if this has been covered in the comments ... the white powder created from burning silicon based elastomers is basically silicon dioxide .
Use a ferule with a sleeve that fits the insulation, strip enough conductor to double it over to fill up the metal of the ferule, then crimp. Works like a charm.
In commercial cooking systems we use this same carbon heater style in ribbons ,pads ,cables etc. Most are 24v ac and 110/120 v ac generally used on vat fryers ( French fry cookers and chicken products occasionally hands feet x wife's head the usual ) to keep oil lines , pumps etc... warm so they move artery clogging fluids for when oh I don't actually filter there once was cooking oil as opposed to the sludge that is smoking in there vat ( yes I do a lot of fast was food places and no I don't eat anything that comes out of them ) . They are also starting to show up in refrigeration . The connections are generally a heat bonded/Vulcan process from the carbon to a high temp silicone/silver wire pigtail lookup frymaster heating cable or pitco www.partstown.com or similar . I have a large one I use in the winter for my van seat and run it from a inverter ( Nebraska actually does get cold and I'm old. mother found me under the refrigerator in may of 1959 she said the milk man put me there)
Over here in the US that’s the wire used in heated tile floors, it’s run off a separate breaker and circuitry to run since it’s put down and looped every 4 or so inches into a big heated pad
Would this be good for DIY heated seats? Most vehicles usually only have low or high. Is this just turning on and off additional strands or varying the voltage?
no, for some reason it doesn't bother me too much.i have also used mineral wool that stuff is bad. if you get itchy from fiberglass throw a hand full of salt in a hot bath for some reason it works
@Space Core ugh I used to work with fiberglass piping and insulation and the dust from either would make me so goddamn itchy I'd scratch myself bloody. I'm glad I'm nowhere near that industry anymore.
Could you dump the bulk of the heating wire in a bucket of water, use the water as a connection to "ground" and zap it with your new toy - just to be sure? It'd be interesting to see if there was a breach. A note about airbourne particles, I live near an industrial estate, side effect of living in an old mining village, and there's a glass recycler nearby,. They had many piles of glass. Noise pollution was bad from tipping vast containers of bottles etc on to the piles. About 7 years ago they were forced to cover the place up, like Reactor 4's sarcophagus cause of the glass fibres / minute shards. A load of people in the neighbouring village were getting fed up of waking up with a "dusting" of the glass on their cars and those who chose to wipe it off, thus sanding their paintwork / top coat off over time. Particulates suck.
mfanto1 I wanted to have no mains in my bathroom. The lights are all 12V, then I remembered P=VI, so a 1200W heater needs 100 amps..... rather thick cable!
Breathing fiberglass is reasonably well studied. It can lead to "silicosis". I don't know how well carbon fiber has been studied for this, but I wouldn't be surprised if the relatively pure carbon is far more biocompatible than silicon dioxide. That's purely a guess, though.
in the snow country frozen pipes come to mind and this would seem like a good way to just keep it warm enough to keep from freezing along with that wonderful temp control unit you found so accurate and easy to use (not) lol
I like your crimping tool. I personally have safety concerns about the vast amount of mdf that is used today. That looks like a affordable heating solution, my friend had electric underfloor heating fitted, and it had a bunch of control gear , Magical thermostat and timers on a lcd screen and a manual that would be lost in a fortnight., The guy fitting it avoided my question when i asked could would wireing the stuff to a plug work. . 👍
(Disclaimer: I wouldn't actually try this), but would heating wire such as that be able to heat a liquid? Do you think water would permeate that insulation and create a short? Or is the only chance if a short be from a stray fiber piercing through the insulation?
Electrical/electronics tech here. That could be an issue if the cable were damaged or came with a significant gap in the insulation, but permeation won't do it. You need a channel of water to transport the power through the insulation out to the main body of water. If it's just a few molecules here and there in an almost impermeable material, it won't conduct enough to matter. It looks like the same stuff I'm seeing on Amazon, where the outer coating is listed as silicone rubber.
I have carbon fiber heating material like this but in ribbon form. It's near stuff, I used it for dew heating straps for a telescope. Also I checked the resistance with your meter's values and basic Ohm's law, and sure enough resistance was ~669 ohms.
Hmmm. How much flexing and bending will this stuff put up with before the internal strands are too broken up to keep working? It seems like some ridiculously useful stuff if it can survive some usage.
Totally can relate to the "insulation cloud" with regard to past construction work, and yes, quite unpleasant. I think back and am thankful my lungs were troopers during adversity!!
The thing with fiberglass and carbon fiber particles is they're flexible allowing your lungs to eventually push them out. Asbestos fibers are stiff and brittle so they continually shatter into finer fibers getting deeper in the lungs.
Maybe useful if you have oil fired central heating and a long run from tank to boiler . Wind this around the pipe , wrap in insulation and stop the oil from waxing up. Similar idea could be used for an outdoor water pipe to a garage , workshop or stables
This wire is used for heating plants when they are small.(seedlings) there is also a thermoregulator for them. I think the carbon core is quite well insulated if it can be used in such wet environments.
We''ve both gas-fired central heating and various other forms of power throughout our UK victorian/edwardian house... In the sitting room we have a live coal/log fire...we love a live fire...and we need never fear power cuts...but it's also gas-centrally heated as a back-up... In the dining room we have an old black lead range...it'll slow cook a roast meal, bake bread, or do a fry up...it's not often in use, but when it is, (eg when it slow cooks the most gorgeous Christmas Dinner), it's highly effective...room also gas centrally heated as a back-up... In the kitchen...we can cook either using the conventional gas cooker, or cook/heat via an Aga/Rayburn...the latter indirectly heats at least three other rooms.... Moving upstairs we have four rooms fundamentally heated by gas-fired central heating, (some with secondary heating provided by the Rayburn), but the master bedroom also benefits from an optional open coal/log fire... We're not the most "energy-efficient" outfit but think we've got it mostly covered...we've had the odd power cut/supply cut down the years but have always survived...usually with enough capacity to help our friends and neighbours too...
I think this might have been what was used many years ago in a pipe wrap, to prevent pipes from freezing up in the winter you just had to remember to plug it in on those below 32 degree days. Of coarse all modern pipes & tubing does not require that any longer, Thank God, hated crawling under floors to thaw old pipes out, usually old galvanized piping.
This looks perfect for a heated jacket with a small HV transformer. - Carbon fiber insulated heater wires are ideal for quality applications in heating pads, electric blankets, and similar low wattage applications. - The wire has stable heating no matter the wire length because of its voltage regulation control. - Carbon fiber insulated heater wire has a good oxidation resistance against aging. Their electric conversion efficiency measures at 98%, saving valuable energy. With this chemical stability, the wires can work without oxygen up to 3,000 degrees.
Ged Reilly that's exactly what its used for it's just marked up in price as soon as it says "planter heater", we use this stuff all the time when growing (mainly germinating) super hot chilli seeds (absolute pain in the ass without it in the UK) we just snake it around the seedling trays and put 10V/M through it.
Man I could sure see some use for that in our RV which has both 12 volt and 220/110 circuits. Warming the water inlet area in freezing weather could really make winter camping much more do'able. Wish I was in good enough shape to get some of that stuff and add it to our RV. Ah well, perhaps in my next life.
Application - Keeping your homebrew alive whilst fermenting. - Stopping pipes freezing - warm that treasured sports car to prevent condensation and subsequent rust, Heated suit/gloves Lipo battery, cup warmer, slow cooker. the list is endless :-)
You could wrap it around exposed waterpipes (and wrap insulation around the whole thing) to keep away the frost. (I had two brakages this winter; it's the bends and tabs which break, not the pipes themselves)
This stuff would work, but you'd have to experiment with length and heat. You may also be able to find flat heat panels made from spun carbon fibre in a plastic lamination.
1:25 I actually was interested in fiberglass vs asbestos dangers a while ago. From the papers I read, asbestos apparently breaks down in a different way which makes it more dangerous. It apparently splits length-ways. I assume this would be like pressing a pin against a hard surface and having the pin split in half straight down it length ways, resulting in two sharp thinner pins. According to the studies I read, fiberglass doesn't split in the same way. Instead, it splits into small pieces of equal thicknesses (across rather than length-ways), which apparently aren't as deadly. Still can cause irritation, but probably not cancerous.
My satellite internet dish horn freezes up in the very cold (-30 to -40 C). It stops working when it freezes. That would be a great way to quickly thaw it out.
It is actually the cold, because the only way to get it to work is to wrap an electric heater around the horn to get it to work again, or if the sun hits it in the morning. It only happens about 3 or 4 times in the winter. It happens right in the middle of the night at its coldest.
Nothing in the way. It is a strange thing. These horns are fussy when it comes to humidity and cold. This is the second one that has been installed. The first one was replace when the horn was cracked by sun damage.
Harold what is inside this horn device? Is it a transmitter? It's very rare that electronics have issues at below 40 would need to have moving parts for it to fail like an HDD
I want to use this to heat my puppy whelping box is it safe? It would be on 24/7 as puppies can’t regulate their temp. I also want to put a thermostat on it. Any advice on how to do this, what products I’ll need and where I can to get them? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
As ever great one chap....... Sad as it may sound I love my garden pond..... I monitor water temperature ...some years ago in the space of an hour the tempreture dropped to -18 ....... your last idea with a 12 volt supply sounds a good option under water....????
More efficient than the heater cable I worked around in the late 80's, at 1KW/h/per 30metres. It cost a lot to keep water pipes from freezing. Is the insulation water-proof? Did I see sparks coming off the insulation when you flame-tested it? Like the ferrite substance in lighter flints...? Will I stop asking questions?:^) Carbon fibre in circuit, a brave new world indeed.
After watching your video I bought some of this. I use it inside a small LiPoSafe battery case to keep batteries warm.
I feed 200mA/1.5W through a 1m piece using a constant current supply. The voltage is around 7.3v when doing this. With this power the wire reaches about 15-20C over ambient which is great. In use it generates just enough heat so that the small case stay warm when also inside a camera bag.
I also tried using the wire directly across a 2S protected Lipo cell which works great and is more often used. Current starts about 8.4v/230mA/2W and drops off from there. The battery protection providing a safe cut-off when needed. The advantage with this is it's just a wire and a battery. No extra stuff to go wrong. Running off a 3S Lipo pack the power is 12.6v/350mA/4.5w which brings the temperature up to about 40-45C above ambient.
I terminated my wire by soldering a wire to a diode's leg off-cut and pushing it down the insulation tube. Tightening the sleeve with a cable tie made the connection pretty solid. I covered over the ends with two-part Epoxy.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
Added more in response to someone below...
Just did a quick test: 1M of filament tested at a room temperature of 20C.
4 turns of filament looped about 8cm diameter sitting on the desk in open air.
K-Type thermocouple taped to the wire.
Voltage/Current/Wattage/TemperatureRise:
8.4v/230mA/2W/+20c
12.6v/350mA/4.5w/+35c
20v/590mA/11W/+85c
25v/750mA/19W/+125c Started to smoke slightly. Maybe was my heatshrink giving up. :-)
32v/1A/32W/+ 170C... Yeah. Unhappy heatshrink was smoking nicely.
Can you tell me how did you install it in 12volt ?
Good Day, PIX, and Thank You for your reply to Big Clive. I am experimenting wih CF and your posting contains some very necessary information I am happy to keep handy going forward. No more Grenfells.
I am using shorter bits but hooking them up to a 12 volt thermometer regulator thingy set at low 15c and high 25c as temps here get as low as -30c
can i have your reference or formula how you compute these different temperature?
All I did was set an external power supply over the test cable and measure the power drawn. I don't have any more details at this stage as it was all done so long ago.
As a physician and now patient, I love your analogy of the lung being like a capacitor in that it requires large immense surface area for gas exchange equivalent to charge. That is "Brilliant"...Thanks Clive.
Air filters also work. Your car uses a folded up air filter to get more surface area, because the folds and bumps increase surface area (which is a good thing for a filter). If it was just a round sheet, it wouldn't be nearly as efficient or long lasting.
Same with sponges. All the pores and space inside increase the surface area and ability to hold water.
air filters are a poor anaology because air filters work better as they get clogged until they reach a critical point... it's part of the design of air filters. lungs on the other hand never work better as they get clogged.
The analogy would be the nose which filters better if it is filled with a little fluid snot ;-)
Years ago I made a heated motorcycle vest.
I used 30 gauge 7 strand Teflon coated wire. I think I remember that 20 feet of wire at 12 volts has 100 watts.
So for less than $5 and that price of a vest, I had a $100 vest.
During WW2, they used that same technology for heated flight suites.
Congrats, you've given me a project
@@andrewcurtin7003 carbon is conductive.. so carbon tape might be easier and smoother.
www.instructables.com/id/DIY-carbon-heated-gloves-1/
ruclips.net/video/UZNdk-CfN0U/видео.html
I was watching this video trying to find a way to make heated motorcycle gear. Thank you for the comment!
@@caploader111 what could you use as a power source? Battery?
@@johnpietri2837 12volt power tool battery or the vehicles battery
Terminating is done by window stripping the end, as you do with litz wire, then wind a single strand of wire around the bunch of fibres. The excess can now be clipped off and the smaller ferrule slipped on and crimped. Although you don't normally do it, I crimp the plastic part of the ferrule as well. Thanks for the great Vids BTW.
"Your lungs are the biological equivalent of a supercapacitor." 🤣
Stay techie, Clive. Stay techie.
Peter McArthur and u stay fucky
Flammability test, you light the bottom and see if the flame propagates up after heat is removed. To pass the test, it must self-extinguish within seconds of the external heat source being removed. That cable looks like a flammability fail as it sustained a flame for far too long despite being held horizontally instead of vertically.
Your comment kinda reminds me of Grenfell tower.
thinking the same , should have had it vertical so it would preheat it self & kept burning (i think it would have)
Teardown Dan, indeed, looks as self extinguishing like a match.
Teardown Dan His was obviously not the official lab test. Anyway, most regulations require stuff to self-extinguish in a certain number of seconds (like 30s), while other regulations demand they use the minimum possible amount of potentially toxic flame-retardent ingredients. So materials like this wire are usually manufactured at exactly the maximum permitted flammability.
@John 94V-0 is by far the most common flammability standard in electrical applications worldwide and for that one, the sample burns vertically from the bottom and must put itself out within 10 seconds from removing external heat. That wire might be 94HB (horizontal burn) at best. I suppose that's kind of acceptable considering that it is meant to be put in cement/concrete floors where compatibility with concrete may be a greater concern than flammability.
I just started watching this channel. I love it! It's like box unwraps except with things actually interesting.
Amateur astronomers sometimes use wire like this to warm up optics that are exposed to the night sky ever so slightly, to keep them from dewing up and obscuring the view. But those tend to run at 12V, only a couple of watts/m, because you don't want to have too much heat, which would cause turbulence.
I've read that silver glue is good for terminating carbon heating ropes. I also came across a rather unusual carbon glue, which seems to be very fine graphite particles suspended in a water-soluble adhesive. I have some carbon fibre strips (about 15mm wide, 1m long) and the carbon glue and silver glue both work great for connecting the carbon fibre strip to a copper wire or bus bar.
DangerousAndAwesome
Thank you so much for posting this. I am intrigued by this idea, as there seems to be practically NO information on the Internet about terminating these cables. (Or, perhaps I have not yet divined the right search phrase...) In any event, your idea seems to have potential. I presume these glues are electrically conductive, so I suppose my next big concern would be their heat tolerance, but I will look more into it myself.
Thanks again!
I love how intellectually stimulating your channel is!
"
Should I be breathing this in?" *Inhales deeply*
Lets say you want to put this cable in a house of 100 m2.
If you make a distance between the cables 10cm, you would need 1000m of this cable.
Lets say I want to run it on 4w per meter. I expect with 4w the cable would be 30°C. And if you spread it with 10cm, the tile would be around 20°C.
If 1000m of this cable is heating, that would be 4w×1000m=4kW
If you run this 5 hours a day for a month, its 4kWh×5h×30d=600kWh
If 1kWh is 0.20 euro cent. That would be 120 euro a month.
But you probably dont have to heat up the whole house for 5 hours every day. Benefit of Infrared heating is that you only have to turn in on in the room you are in, so lets say we are warming up 25m2 for 5 hours. That would be only 30 euro a month.
Dont forget, you need to set this cable up in a parallel connection.
To make it 4w per meter, it needs to be 20m. So you need multiple cables of 20m setup in parallel connection.
W/meter=U×U÷(m×Ohm)÷m
=230V×230V÷(20m×33Ohm):20m
= 4w per meter
Although this is an "old" video, I just wanted to share that I have had good results terminating this carbon fibre cable with "Wago 222 Style" connectors on 12v DC. (A lot easier than ferrule crimping, and reusable if needed). The Wagos are good for connecting fairly short lengths in parallel to get good heating on 12v. (Heated car seats, cold morning windscreen defrosting (place over the windscreen air vent of a cold engine with the fan running, etc.)
Excellent demonstration of handling techniques with a hazardous material. Thanks, Clive.
The difference between fibreglass and asbestos is the glass fibres break laterally so their length decreases whereas the asbestos fibres split longitudinally.
Alan Partridge and therefore considered a non respiratory risk
I'd say it's a considerably lower health risk but I still wouldn't recommend inhaling a load of glass fibre just like I wouldn't recommend inhaling iron fillings or sawdust.
Ah ha!
Alan Partridge Ah ha!
I heard one researcher report that they were able to induce lung cancer in rats from fiberglass but they basically had to "pack the rat with the stuff".
This reminds me of how carbon spark plug wires are connected. I have seen various methods but most oftern the carbon fibers are folded back over the insulation and the metal crimp ends crimped over both.
individual carbon fibre strands make a good bang if they float away and end up in a 240V socket :)
Fine magnet wire scattered about does well on 120 socket.
Thanks for the warning!
I installed a 750 square foot floor with ceramic tile on top of this heating wire, stuff is very tough. Wonderful floor, low cost, very happy !
so how many feet of wire per sq. ft./ or what was average spacing between passes? what are you using for power supply / thermostat? how many feet of unbroken wire vs. parallel installations? What kind of termination technology to cold wire did you use? Does anyone have a detail for installing this under click floor without screed or thinset although that could be the best for heat transfer, but I've also seen putative details with reflective layer under the cable, e.g. aluminum foil, and poly sheet over it and click floor directly but the cable is about an 1/8" thick so i don't know how it managed the load and if there are enough passes and the flooring runs perpendicular to those passes, perhaps that is still a simple and functional install. how did you hold the cable down before screed and tile were placed?
I did a ride along with a fire department for a shift and I learned that people used to put this sort of heating system in their ceilings. I don't remember why people thought you should heat from the ceiling down but I do remember them explaining how much of a hazard those systems are.
I think its mostly done because it´s easy to install later on, and still better than the classic radiator.
My uncle used to live in an apartment complex (built in the 1990s) that had ceiling-heated units. He was on the 2nd floor, and I remember during a blizzard he had every window open and was walking around with no shirt on because it was over 80 degrees and the downstairs tenant was suffering from her unit in the 50s. Epic fail on the builders, it would have been more efficient for the first floor units to have electric baseboard heat instead. On the up side, he never had to turn on his heat, ever, while he lived there.
We had a home with the 120v in ceiling radiant heat. It had previously been added during a large extension project (in the 70's) as well as the requisite ceiling fans to help. It was only helpful when the wood stove couldn't keep up with -12F and leaking windows.
And here i am trying to persuade my sister that her idea of installing ceiling-heating is retarded but she won't listen.
(No, not in an old building - they are currently building a new house)
+ABaumstumpf I'd show her what +DashCamAndy said, I think he's got the best story of the rest of us
hi clive great video. How would you vary or reduce the heat output of this if it had a fixed length of say 10m while reducing the power used? cheers o/
I'm not sure what the power output at 10m would be. Depending on the heat required it may be viable to add a capacitor in series or a diode for half wave to halve the power.
@@bigclivedotcom thank you so much!
Great video Clive, you always find such interesting stuff. Had not seen this wire before but looks like it has some possibilities. Thanks Clive.
Fascinating! A doubled length of this stuff in the condensate drainpipe of a condensing boiler, fed from a 12 or 24 volt thermostatically controlled PSU would prevent freezing of the drainpipe and alleviate a common problem with this type of boiler in winter.
so would you recommend this for heating up a wood laminate? or only tile? the ebay seller had this info:
Product power calculation:
(voltage × voltage) ÷ (resistance × length) = power
For example: 12K carbon fiber 10 meters length (per metre 12K 33 ohms, 24K18.5 ohms)
220V × 220V ÷ (10 meters × 33 ohms) = 150 watts
For example: 24K carbon fiber 10 meters length
220V × 220V ÷ (10 meters × 18.5 ohms) = 261 watts
The above data shows that the longer the length of the heater wre is, the smaller the power of the heater wire is. (The product temperature is subject to actual use.)
Multiple heating lines can be used in parallel, so that the power is increased!
Length: (custom, recommendation of not less than 10 meters)
12K recommended to use 10-15 meters (12k outer diameter 2.0MM) power 150W-100W
24K recommended to use 10-14 meters (24k outer diameter 2.2MM) power 280W-200W
Note: The heating wires can't overlap when they are used, and they can't cross. The overlapping overlap will make the local temperature of the heating wire higher than the melting point of the protective layer, and the temperature will be too high to burn the heating wire sheath.
I'd be cautious about using something like this in a practical installation. It would be better to use a locally sourced and compliant system.
Well, this just cost me about $30 for six jaw crimper and ferrule assortment pack. Between Big Clive's videos and the machinist videos I watch, I manage to stay pretty well broke every month.
14:35 "CLIVE YOU'RE A PLUM!" hahaha That had me laughing so hard!lol
Reminds me of the 'Nightmare decorators of Lairg'. The 'Big house' I once caretook had booked them to plaster scollop the ceiling and wallpaper the living room and, as ever, they arrived at the very last minute to do the job, rushed it, threw plaster and wallpaper paste EVERYWHERE and left the night before the owners were due. So I had to pull an all nighter to get the place clean and ready for the owner.
Every door handle, toilet pull, light switch, window handle and trapes up and down the stairs, even in the fridge? I had to clean and scrape off plaster and hard set glue.
The windows were splattered and the dust from the plaster mixing was everywhere. They had clearly mixed in every single room for some reason.... BUT the thing that really really pissed me off is they had found a roll of mains cable and the box of plugs and sockets which the 'Mannie' had asked me to make up various extension leads with after this visit and he had told me where they were for.
They had found that, put a plug on one end and a socket on the other then run a fan heater with to fast dry the plaster and wallpaper while the most of it was still coiled up. Two thirds of the roll just melted together like you describe and ended up in the bin. Bastards!
Thanks for this episode of inspiration and answering the obvious Q+As. Your suggestions for making it safe to use earns you 10/10! Trying to learn racing quads at the moment on the Costa del UK. Great but less if you are freezing. Since the pilots already strap on a large 3s lipo to power their FPV goggles, a nice pair of heated gloves under 5W would be an easy hack. We also suffer from cold lipos. Using a lipo below 10 Deg C can cause permanent damage to cells. Racing packs are not cheap.
Looks like Fanny Flambeau LTD have already made a recharchable muff warmer. www.flambeauoutdoors.com/Heated-Gear/Hand-Muff. Have I missed any ladypart euphemisms?
An easy way to test for emergent fibres would be to immerse the coil, apart from the ends, in a metal bowl of salty water and checking for continuity between the bowl and the ends.
So that is what all that weird wire I have is! Thanks for teaching me Big Clive!
I use a very similar product in commercial grocery store equipment. Door frames of frozen food cases. Heater for glass on display cases. Door frames on walk in boxes. Stores have MILES of this heater. The normal failure point is at the crimp connection to the copper wire. The wire we use is white. Fiberglass core. It was my understanding the it is the wire wrapped around the fiber core that is what heats up.
We used to use that with Hussmann too. There were massive toroidal transformers on top of the cases that caused inrush current problems.
A year or so ago I took apart a broken portable air purifier (not mine) intended to be kept in your car, and it had a potted box with what I now realize was carbon fiber strands in a rubber sleeve coming out of it - thanks for solving that mystery. I thought it must be generating high voltages inside the potting, presumably for ozone generation, but I couldn't figure how the plastic-like brush was helpful.
It's commonly used with Ionisers now. It's a perfect emitter.
Have you tried to solder it?
You could also test for stray strands poking through by immersing it in salted water or another conductive liquid while running a voltage across it and measure any conductivity to the water/liquid.
Daniel Lassander carbon doesn't solder.
IIRC immersion in salty water and testing the conductivity is how they electronically test condoms
By the type of combustion and that white ash, I can say that this insulation is 100% silicone polymer. By the way, its redish-brown colour is quite similar to heat resistant silicone gasket material for automobiles
That's very naughty since they're claiming it's PTFE. I've ordered 20 metres of it though and will make sure I have secondary fire protection since I won't be embedding it in concrete ...
ive worked with that stuff, on refrigeration cabinets , in door trims and sills, used to stop condensation, on freezers and chillers.
The crimper is obviously a fast and conveniently used tool for terminating this wire. I imagine an optimal crimper would exert crushing force at the tip. Moving further back along the fibres, the force would decrease progressively down to next to nothing. Tapering serrated jaws would do it, if you see what I mean. At some point along the crimp, the force would be optimal. Great demonstration of a new product; thanks.
For terminations we used to use a crimp that was similar to how you would make custom high performance spark plug wires.You would strip it and fold it back onto the rubber coating and the crimp went on top of that.It's tough to explain but if you've ever pulled a plug wire apart you'd understand.
I'm pretty sure I've seen matches self extinguish faster than that insulation did.
That WAS scary.
I've seen house fires self-extinguish faster than that.
I live in the arctic. The big extra high beam lights on my car has a lip on the frame around the outer glass, where snow and ice will stick. Won't stick to the glass much, but it collects down in that lip, and then builds up while driving until it covers the whole glass. Not a lot of heat to go around, with a 35w HID bulb and a 8" wind-chiled glass surface. I got some 14 ohm/m of this stuff, wrapped 2 parallel lengths of this inside the bezel frame, and hot glued it in place. Heats up that troublesome lip with about 30 watts total, now the snow and ice melt before it has a chance to build.
Someone I know had some underfloor electric heating fitted into thier kitchen. I know the whole room uses 1.2kw, and does nothing much to heat the room, but it does definately feel nice. So long as feet are warm, it's surprising how much that makes a difference to overall temperature of one's self.
Still prefer my open coal fire though.
Taffy Newfoundland We have it in the bathroom. Toasty feet when you get in/out of the bath....
That was either a long time ago, or a terrible install. My family has a house in New Hampshire, and when I was up there at the end of December/beginning of January, it was between -17° and slowly rose to 23° F after about 5 days. (-27° to -5° C) The 4200 sq. ft. house was heated ONLY with radiant floor heating powered by a outdoor wood furnace boiler. It was VERY warm; even with vaulted ceilings. It doesn't get much cooler than that, and it was amazing. Granted the outdoor boiler was big money, the money he saved from heating oil, propane (Propane boilers to power radiant floor heating is not nearly as efficient.), wood was enough to pay for the entire system over two years. It also has a blower to heat the house through central ducting, if it's really cold. The trick is to get the thermal mass of the entire house and its contents warm at the beginning of winter, and keep it that way. Trying to cool the thermal mass of an entire 4200 sq. ft. house, after it has gotten cold, with radiant floor heating alone, is near impossible. If it gets warm for a week, you can turn it off, and then when it gets cold you can use the radiant with the blower, and get it hot again, then phase out the blower. It takes a REALLY long time to change the temp of a thermal mass that large though. The valves, of the radiant system, leading to different parts of the house can be closed/opened, to direct where you want the heat. They can program it to open the valves that lead to the driveway radiant heating, a couple hours before work, so that the driveway is ice free.
You can't beat a direct fire for heat. My sis bought some of that heated floor stuff for by her back sliding glass door. I advised she use it in the downstairs bathroom and she is very glad she did so.
Radiant systems are designed to function on convection. Great for interior bathrooms, terrible for main entryways. (source: I used to sell tile and the heating systems for it)
It's also incredible what it does when your toddler drops a mars bar on the floor and you didn't notice.
Silicone jacket! I work with silicone and it turns back into sand when burned. The smoke is a bit of a thing with burning silicone.
Another fascinating video Clive. You may be interested to know that there is carbon cement available. I think it’s epoxy based with carbon nanotubes mixed in. It is used to bond carbon fibre panels together in the aviation industry where we need a conducting joint for lightning protection and static charge dissipation. Perhaps it could be used in a ferrule to join the fragile fibre. Just a thought.
Just wrapped a 2m tape looked like made from four strands of this stuff round a pipe in my garage. Burst in the cold second time in ten years. Will eventually link up to a thermo-controller but for now is on a timer, on 15 mins in every hour... same colour too.
I love unusual heating elements! I for one would love to see your take on other heating tech if you come across something during your online escapades :)
Neat stuff! Fun seeing materials that were hot new future stuff some years back being put to somewhat mundane uses.
The wire I have can go to max 18W per meter. You cut it to what you need without exceeding 18W/m. I got 66ohm/m wire and installed 15x 5m lengths into my floor, I terminated the same. That's about 2.4KW@230V in floor heating. Regulated with a thermostat. Works great.
Looks like a great way to make the heated seats I want on my truck. That's one vehicle feature that once you've had it you need it on every one after.
Speaking of having fine fibers pierce your skin. I've actually had regular human hair pierce my skin before. The one time I pulled a hair out from my toe that had embedded itself a good 1/8-1/4in. I read up on it and apparently barbers get hair slivers quite often. It's also common with owners of dogs with coarse hair.
Hair dressers often have other people's hair growing out of their wrists. No word of a lie, my old barber showed me.
@@bigsaggyvaag I don't think it would actually grow out of your wrist. More likely it's just a bunch of hair slivers. The reason I say this is, imagine it's like an organ transplant, right. You're taking tissue, in this case hair follicles, from someone else and putting them in your body. When your body's immune system sees it, it sees it as a potentially dangerous invader and attacks the foreign tissue. Which is why people who have organ transplants have to take immunosuppressant drugs to weaken their immune system and prevent it from attacking the transplanted organ.
But more so, the actual hair follicle is part of the skin, not the hair itself. It's a common misconception that the white bulb at the end of a hair you pull out is the follicle. But if that were the case, the hair would stop growing once you pull that bulb out. And it would certainly make permanent hair removal a lot easier. I mean, if that were the case, waxing hair would mean it wouldn't grow back at all.
If you look at a diagram of a hair follicle with the hair in it, you can see the follicle needs a blood supply and has sebaceous glands which produce oil and even little muscles that causes goosebumps and makes the hair stand on end. It's a lot more than just the little bulb. Which I'll provide a picture of here for your convenience:
activilong.com/img/cms/2anatomie_cuirchevelu_EN.jpg
But all of this is why when you get hair transplant surgery for baldness, they have to take a whole bunch of little plugs of skin which contain several hairs out of one part of your body, usually the back of your head, and transplant it to the part of your head that's missing hair. Which btw, for your own good DO NOT look up pictures of this. Hair plug surgery is absolutely disgusting looking. Especially if you have trypophobia. You know, that fear of holes that was a viral thing for a brief time.
I've seen all sorts of different surgeries over my life (in video) and there are only 2 that ever really bothered me. Hair plug surgery, and vasectomies. So that should give you an idea of how nasty it is. lol.
Anyways, I didn't mean to come off as being pedantic or trivialize your barber's claim. I just really love learning stuff and sharing that stuff with people whenever I get a chance. So I hope you found this enlightening and interesting more than condescending. It wasn't my intention to be condescending. Cheers, buddy. And take care. Especially with the pandemic. =)
Thank you so much for posting this video, along with the circuit readings! Regarding exo-wear technology - In space (North Dakota) no one can hear you freeze. I am experimenting with different 'strands' of carbon filament. Thank you again for your videos!
I've got this stuff in my gutters. I have 50m of it on 110v. It runs down 25 meters and comes back to a plug. It draws about 8 watts. This will be the 1st year I use it. I don't think it's going to be enough to keep ice from forming in my gutters and downspouts.
Hi Clive I was wondering with Ozone generators if you can use them to remove the smell from towels. Like if you put them in a zip-lock and let it "soak" for a while. I also wonder if it would bleach them well
There are commercial laundry systems that do that. They either tumble clothing in ozonated air or diffuse it through the water as an alternative to detergent.
i do not know if this has been covered in the comments ... the white powder created from burning silicon based elastomers is basically silicon dioxide .
Use a ferule with a sleeve that fits the insulation, strip enough conductor to double it over to fill up the metal of the ferule, then crimp. Works like a charm.
In commercial cooking systems we use this same carbon heater style in ribbons ,pads ,cables etc. Most are 24v ac and 110/120 v ac generally used on vat fryers ( French fry cookers and chicken products occasionally hands feet x wife's head the usual ) to keep oil lines , pumps etc... warm so they move artery clogging fluids for when oh I don't actually filter there once was cooking oil as opposed to the sludge that is smoking in there vat ( yes I do a lot of fast was food places and no I don't eat anything that comes out of them ) . They are also starting to show up in refrigeration . The connections are generally a heat bonded/Vulcan process from the carbon to a high temp silicone/silver wire pigtail lookup frymaster heating cable or pitco www.partstown.com or similar . I have a large one I use in the winter for my van seat and run it from a inverter ( Nebraska actually does get cold and I'm old. mother found me under the refrigerator in may of 1959 she said the milk man put me there)
thanks i am getting some to make a foot warmer for my wife's favorite chair you came up with a great solution thanks again
Over here in the US that’s the wire used in heated tile floors, it’s run off a separate breaker and circuitry to run since it’s put down and looped every 4 or so inches into a big heated pad
Would this be good for DIY heated seats? Most vehicles usually only have low or high. Is this just turning on and off additional strands or varying the voltage?
The old '60's Ford carbon impregnated string ignition leads used a spike wire to connect the terminations.
i insulated houses in the 80's blowing fiberglass through a 3" hose , i was very pretty sparkling in the sunlight.
Didn't you always end up with rashes ? -I can't look at it- I can't even think about it without scratching myself
no, for some reason it doesn't bother me too much.i have also used mineral wool that stuff is bad. if you get itchy from fiberglass throw a hand full of salt in a hot bath for some reason it works
i respect that
Oh my god... How was the itching? I played with the stuff as a kid once and it was a week of itchy hell.
@Space Core ugh I used to work with fiberglass piping and insulation and the dust from either would make me so goddamn itchy I'd scratch myself bloody. I'm glad I'm nowhere near that industry anymore.
Could you dump the bulk of the heating wire in a bucket of water, use the water as a connection to "ground" and zap it with your new toy - just to be sure? It'd be interesting to see if there was a breach.
A note about airbourne particles, I live near an industrial estate, side effect of living in an old mining village, and there's a glass recycler nearby,. They had many piles of glass. Noise pollution was bad from tipping vast containers of bottles etc on to the piles. About 7 years ago they were forced to cover the place up, like Reactor 4's sarcophagus cause of the glass fibres / minute shards.
A load of people in the neighbouring village were getting fed up of waking up with a "dusting" of the glass on their cars and those who chose to wipe it off, thus sanding their paintwork / top coat off over time.
Particulates suck.
Heating up the bath tub so the water doesn't go cold so fast
mfanto1 I have a design for a heated bathtub...
What about heating the bathtub with mains voltage electrodes?
mfanto1 I wanted to have no mains in my bathroom. The lights are all 12V, then I remembered P=VI, so a 1200W heater needs 100 amps..... rather thick cable!
Just drop a running toaster in the water. Problem solved.
_"What about heating the bathtub with mains voltage electrodes?"_
Sounds reasonable. Try it and report back here.
Breathing fiberglass is reasonably well studied. It can lead to "silicosis". I don't know how well carbon fiber has been studied for this, but I wouldn't be surprised if the relatively pure carbon is far more biocompatible than silicon dioxide. That's purely a guess, though.
in the snow country frozen pipes come to mind and this would seem like a good way to just keep it warm enough to keep from freezing along with that wonderful temp control unit you found so accurate and easy to use (not) lol
I like your crimping tool. I personally have safety concerns about the vast amount of mdf that is used today. That looks like a affordable heating solution, my friend had electric underfloor heating fitted, and it had a bunch of control gear , Magical thermostat and timers on a lcd screen and a manual that would be lost in a fortnight., The guy fitting it avoided my question when i asked could would wireing the stuff to a plug work. . 👍
(Disclaimer: I wouldn't actually try this), but would heating wire such as that be able to heat a liquid? Do you think water would permeate that insulation and create a short? Or is the only chance if a short be from a stray fiber piercing through the insulation?
Electrical/electronics tech here. That could be an issue if the cable were damaged or came with a significant gap in the insulation, but permeation won't do it. You need a channel of water to transport the power through the insulation out to the main body of water. If it's just a few molecules here and there in an almost impermeable material, it won't conduct enough to matter. It looks like the same stuff I'm seeing on Amazon, where the outer coating is listed as silicone rubber.
BigClive
Did you make that Hopi or buy it?
It looks suspiciously like the case off a TDR - TL260
If you bought it, where can I obtain one?
I bought this one on eBay.
Clive, you plum!!!
I have carbon fiber heating material like this but in ribbon form. It's near stuff, I used it for dew heating straps for a telescope.
Also I checked the resistance with your meter's values and basic Ohm's law, and sure enough resistance was ~669 ohms.
Heated flooring is a God send.
Hmmm. How much flexing and bending will this stuff put up with before the internal strands are too broken up to keep working? It seems like some ridiculously useful stuff if it can survive some usage.
Totally can relate to the "insulation cloud" with regard to past construction work, and yes, quite unpleasant. I think back and am thankful my lungs were troopers during adversity!!
The thing with fiberglass and carbon fiber particles is they're flexible allowing your lungs to eventually push them out. Asbestos fibers are stiff and brittle so they continually shatter into finer fibers getting deeper in the lungs.
I don't know why. but at a glimpse. I thought the title said.... tasting carbon fiber heating wire. just don't eat it Clive!
James stranger He DID taste meths... So you never know.
I love it when you go off on a tangent XD
Carbon fiber: "Omg, my lungs!"
Potentially carcinogenic smoke from the wrapping: "Oh look, it's smoke"
👍👍
Maybe useful if you have oil fired central heating and a long run from tank to boiler . Wind this around the pipe , wrap in insulation and stop the oil from waxing up. Similar idea could be used for an outdoor water pipe to a garage , workshop or stables
Sounds like the sort of stuff you wrap around water pipes to prevent freezing, interesting cord, there must be many uses for it :-D
This wire is used for heating plants when they are small.(seedlings) there is also a thermoregulator for them. I think the carbon core is quite well insulated if it can be used in such wet environments.
We''ve both gas-fired central heating and various other forms of power throughout our UK victorian/edwardian house...
In the sitting room we have a live coal/log fire...we love a live fire...and we need never fear power cuts...but it's also gas-centrally heated as a back-up...
In the dining room we have an old black lead range...it'll slow cook a roast meal, bake bread, or do a fry up...it's not often in use, but when it is, (eg when it slow cooks the most gorgeous Christmas Dinner), it's highly effective...room also gas centrally heated as a back-up...
In the kitchen...we can cook either using the conventional gas cooker, or cook/heat via an Aga/Rayburn...the latter indirectly heats at least three other rooms....
Moving upstairs we have four rooms fundamentally heated by gas-fired central heating, (some with secondary heating provided by the Rayburn), but the master bedroom also benefits from an optional open coal/log fire...
We're not the most "energy-efficient" outfit but think we've got it mostly covered...we've had the odd power cut/supply cut down the years but have always survived...usually with enough capacity to help our friends and neighbours too...
Planning on using some of this and a 100W solar panel to keep potted plants warm in the sun room so they dont stress out on the chillier days.
I think this might have been what was used many years ago in a pipe wrap, to prevent pipes from freezing up in the winter you just had to remember to plug it in on those below 32 degree days. Of coarse all modern pipes & tubing does not require that any longer, Thank God, hated crawling under floors to thaw old pipes out, usually old galvanized piping.
This looks perfect for a heated jacket with a small HV transformer.
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Carbon fiber insulated heater wires are ideal for quality applications in heating pads, electric blankets, and similar low wattage applications.
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The wire has stable heating no matter the wire length because of its voltage regulation control.
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Carbon fiber insulated heater wire has a good oxidation resistance against aging. Their electric conversion efficiency measures at 98%, saving valuable energy. With this chemical stability, the wires can work without oxygen up to 3,000 degrees.
probably terminates like spark plug wire. fold the fibre back over the insulation and crimp over the lot.
Excellent candidate for "brew belts" (heating belts you wrap around your fermenter to keep them warm)
DIY heated car seats, steering wheel etc.? Engine block heater for cold climates? Seedling propagators? USB coffee warmer? Very versatile stuff, methinks.
Might be good for greenhouse soil heater boxes.
Ged Reilly heat cable is great for heating beds.
Ged Reilly that's exactly what its used for it's just marked up in price as soon as it says "planter heater", we use this stuff all the time when growing (mainly germinating) super hot chilli seeds (absolute pain in the ass without it in the UK) we just snake it around the seedling trays and put 10V/M through it.
euan todd "super hot chilli seeds, a pain in the arse. ..." :)
_"super hot chilli seeds (absolute pain in the ass..."_
Is that a guarantee of quality?
it is designed to work for soil bed heater.. but at lower voltage , hence lower temperature.. so won't damage the root.
Man I could sure see some use for that in our RV which has both 12 volt and 220/110 circuits. Warming the water inlet area in freezing weather could really make winter camping much more do'able. Wish I was in good enough shape to get some of that stuff and add it to our RV. Ah well, perhaps in my next life.
Application - Keeping your homebrew alive whilst fermenting. - Stopping pipes freezing - warm that treasured sports car to prevent condensation and subsequent rust, Heated suit/gloves Lipo battery, cup warmer, slow cooker. the list is endless :-)
You could wrap it around exposed waterpipes (and wrap insulation around the whole thing) to keep away the frost. (I had two brakages this winter; it's the bends and tabs which break, not the pipes themselves)
@bigclivedotcom I am searching for some carbon heating wire to sew into my motorcycle jacket. Can you recommend something good for 12 volts?
This stuff would work, but you'd have to experiment with length and heat.
You may also be able to find flat heat panels made from spun carbon fibre in a plastic lamination.
1:25 I actually was interested in fiberglass vs asbestos dangers a while ago.
From the papers I read, asbestos apparently breaks down in a different way which makes it more dangerous. It apparently splits length-ways. I assume this would be like pressing a pin against a hard surface and having the pin split in half straight down it length ways, resulting in two sharp thinner pins. According to the studies I read, fiberglass doesn't split in the same way. Instead, it splits into small pieces of equal thicknesses (across rather than length-ways), which apparently aren't as deadly. Still can cause irritation, but probably not cancerous.
i put it on nozzle pipe of my oil burner...
its about 60c
do you thing is ok? the material is good?
We love you Big "C"!
My satellite internet dish horn freezes up in the very cold (-30 to -40 C). It stops working when it freezes. That would be a great way to quickly thaw it out.
Canada.
It is actually the cold, because the only way to get it to work is to wrap an electric heater around the horn to get it to work again, or if the sun hits it in the morning. It only happens about 3 or 4 times in the winter. It happens right in the middle of the night at its coldest.
Nothing in the way. It is a strange thing. These horns are fussy when it comes to humidity and cold. This is the second one that has been installed. The first one was replace when the horn was cracked by sun damage.
Harold what is inside this horn device? Is it a transmitter? It's very rare that electronics have issues at below 40 would need to have moving parts for it to fail like an HDD
That's right on the temp border between consumer ic operating temps and military ic operating temps. mil spec wouldn't do that
Hello
What type of heater you think is most suitable for incubator?
I want to use this to heat my puppy whelping box is it safe? It would be on 24/7 as puppies can’t regulate their temp. I also want to put a thermostat on it. Any advice on how to do this, what products I’ll need and where I can to get them? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
As ever great one chap....... Sad as it may sound I love my garden pond..... I monitor water temperature ...some years ago in the space of an hour the tempreture dropped to -18 ....... your last idea with a 12 volt supply sounds a good option under water....????
"Should I be breathing this in" lol
Of course another educational video. I bet most people never think of carbon fiber as harmful.
More efficient than the heater cable I worked around in the late 80's, at 1KW/h/per 30metres. It cost a lot to keep water pipes from freezing. Is the insulation water-proof? Did I see sparks coming off the insulation when you flame-tested it? Like the ferrite substance in lighter flints...? Will I stop asking questions?:^) Carbon fibre in circuit, a brave new world indeed.
I want to use wire like this to make a heat pad for seed starts. I have a thermostat, but I don't know how to power it. Can you give me a suggestion?