Thanks for the tip Mike. I released the tension by removing the holding nuts. Rotating the engine backwards collects all the slack in the chain to where the tensioner is. It's already gathered there anyway. It's important to wash your hands after you use the bathroom (I always do that) it's also important to hold onto the railing when you go up or down stairs ( I never do that). etc.
@@briansmobile1 You should add this step on the text of this video. Some ignorance may start the engine before releasing the tensioner and can damage the whole engine. it is a moral duty when sharing DIY
I bought my 2000 Corolla which has 1ZZ-FE engine back in 2016, and it had this pretty much the same timing chain tensioner. It keeps leaking, and the dip stick went from high to low in about 2k miles. I took it to few repair shops and none of them told me that I need that gasket until recently. Once the gasket was put in, the dip stick drop about 1/3 between high and low after 2k miles. This is one of the most common cause of oil consumption which isn't really consumption, but leakage. So much talk about 8th gen Corolla with 1ZZ-FE engine burning oil, and I think that's just a joke. Not much people really know what's wrong. Once the engine leak enough oil, the rest of the oil inside the engine will just get worked harder, so they turn black faster. If the owner doesn't pay attention to it which most owners don't, the engine will get gunked up oil fast. That will make it looks like burning oil, but it actually is not.
I had no idea this fix was so easy.. tensioner on my girlfriends car has been leaking like a cut siev and I thought it was the cover.. already on the phone to Toyota ordering a new tensioner!! Thank you!!
Yes you can do this yourself, just make sure it’s the tensioner gasket and not the timing cover. You can actually do it with a quarter inch ratchet without jacking the vehicle up if you reach over the back of the valve cover. I use a quarter inch ratchet with a deep well magnetic 10mm socket. After reinstalling make sure to turn the crank clockwise by hand until you hear three clicks telling you the tensioner deployed. If you just stick it in and crank the car up it can possibly jump time.
Wow! What a fantastic video. Thank you. I am going to begin diagnosing the leak on my girlfriend's Toyota Corolla this weekend. I will start here. Also, thank you to the viewer comments for adding additional feedback.
Brian you vids are brilliant, you are my go to media / youtube mechnic. Your vids have helped me keep my old 2001 Corolla going strong. Please do a vid, on the notorious Corolla 1.8 liter valve seals replacement if you haven't already done so, or a link to a good video showing valve seal replacement for the 2001 Toyota Corolla s....Thanks, Peace P.S. I was quoted $500+ for complete remanufactured head with all new seals, from local chain auto parts retailer, I think I'll save my money and replace valve seals myself :). Crazyhorse.
My girlfriend has a cricut maker! I never thought to do this. Now how to figure out how to make it an SVG... wow, the possibilities this unlocks! Great idea, thanks!
Thank you for this video because it was very informative. I bought new gasket from dealer for 7 dollars and replaced it today so i hope it solves my leak issue on my 2007 corolla
Great repair! I've done this exact repair on my 2002 Celica and 2003 Pontiac Vibe. One additional step upon installing the tensioner I included was to manually rotate the engine clockwise to release the tensioner prior to start up. I normally did this by rotating the alternator/serpentine belt. I have not seen a 1ZZ/2ZZ that did not have this leak. Thanks Brian and Scotty K for your great videos!
After replacing mine on 2003 corolla I just crank the engine like two to three times without starting the car. And finally started the car and viola all was good
99 corolla i just bought and noticed alot of oil on that side. Thought it might be oil pan but too much oil above pan and on smog pump. Gonna check this first so thanks for the tip.
After watching this video, then I check my 2009 Toyota Corolla, and yes, I have oil and dirt around that area and I think I have a small leaks. I will monitor it. Thanks for the video.
I was wondering at first what crickets had to do with a car. Suddenly it hit me, my best friend has that cutting machine... Cricut... OOOH! YES! Brilliant! Well, looks like we can save some money on gaskets! GREAT TIP! (Plus, she has a corolla that needs works, hence why I clicked on this. DOUBLE WHAMMY! TYVM!)
Looking at this on my Toyota corolla e11 1.4, looks like someones gone in before with some sort of yellow gasket sealer, also my rocker gasket's leaking from a bad PCV valve. Hoping any standard one will do. My questiono is... drum roll. Does that clip you fasten the tensioner down with, automatically release when you fasten the case down, other guides suggest you need to look at the time chain cover and look at whether it's top dead center?
The chain slaps a guide that pushes on the tensioner and that pushes on the hook and then the spring rebounds it tight. The most brief bump in and it pops it tight.
What if my Prius doesn’t have an ignition but instead just a button? Brian you mention by turning the key to position 3 it would automatically release the tensioner but what if I only have a button?
Excellent demonstration, how about to unlock the hook which locked the tensioner body assembly. Which direction to turn the crank first, counter clockwise or clockwise? Thx
Clockwise. You can turn the key and it will set immediately. It takes some confidence and it's scary the 1st time, but once I was taught that way on an engine stand on a build- you watch it go and it's pretty straight forward/convincing.
Good video, Have a question, should I worry about timing chain fell of sprocket, while removing chain tensioner? We have 3 Toyotas, and 2 of them are leaking~
My 2002 Celica GT with the 1ZZ has been seeping oil from the timing chain tensioner for 10 years, and still no problems. Just make sure you change your oil, but it is not a 'do or die' issue.
Doesn't your celica "burn" or lets call it "magically evaporate" oil like crazy? I'm thinking about buying one but I've read way too many forums complaining about "oil burning" and having to constantly refill the engine with oil and stuff like that. Please tell me if you have had any issues related to these. I really like the car but I'm scared it might have this issue. And I'm just praying it isn't the piston rings' design that everyone is crying about...
@@krebsebubrek552 Had the car since 2009 and now have 301,000 km. It never burned oil until I got up to 280,000 kms, despite doing regular oil changes. Normal for an older car. Oil is seeping from the tensioner chain and the oil pan, but it does not leak out as if the oil is streaming and puddling on the ground below the engine bay. Just bubbles. Some oil being burned internally likely due to new leaks in the engine valves or rings due to normal wear and tear. Adding a half quart in between oil changes. At this stage If I care anymore, I can throw anything at the car like engine leak sealers and fuel injector cleaners, and it is a reliable.
Anyone know what size bolt that is i known the nut is like an 9 or 8mm b I t what size is the bolt because my bolt broke and need to find a way to fix it
I notice my oil pressure sensor under the tensioner is leaking too. I think I could use locktite 243? I know this works on Subaru oil pressure sensors.
Not saying this is the correct way, but I reset (unhooked) the tensioner after reinstalling it by unplugging all 4 coil pack connections via the plastic wire harnesses and started the car. Obviously it just turned over the engine without firing. Then I reconnected coil pack wire harnesses and started car up like normal. This will likely give you a check engine light though.
does the little hook release once you put that back in the car? our 2010 corolla s has 186900 miles and I noticed it had used a bit of oil, when I got under the car to do the brakes and an oil change I noticed what appeared to be an oil leak that I thought was coming from this exact area.
As soon as the engine rotates in either direction it releases. Best practice is to rotate it clockwise by the bolt in the center of the HB pulley just 5° and then back. You'll hear it zip out.
Nice. Dont you need to turn your engine slowly verylittle counterclockwise(wrongway) before that tensioner can make a tension again(release the locking hook via chain quide)?
Do NOT rotate it the opposite way. Doing that would put slack on the drive side. It might still work, but it's not necessary. The chain slack collects at the tensioner right where you want it anyway. When you park the car for service the chain is taught on the drive side and all the slack is at the tensioner side. All you have to do is put the tensioner back securely and crank the starter over smoothly/start it. The chain will slap the guide into the tensioner and it will bump the hook to the right and the spring will set tension.
And that is the hole idea, putting tension in tension side so the chainguide can hit on the tensioner axel and release the tensioner locking hook. But dont turn more then that you need for that. Anyway thats what i have read from some manufacture repairmauals for "just" chaintensioner replaysments. Never i have read one that you could just start when tensioner is loked via that hook. I would be more afraid doing that. But thenagain iam the guy, that wants to be sure. So car dont start ever on firsth time i crank, when i have changed oil operated thing (tensioners, vvt,...). So i know they get oil before i made it go from starters ~300 to engine runing idel~2000rpm in ms and hope they dont give up on me.
I did this on my corolla 1998 and my son's corolla 2002. From time to time, oil leaks return. Tired fixing them. Hope those who did this made it a success.
Hi I am concern to our Corolla 2002, I'm not sure if should turn clockwise after installing the tensioner with new O-ring gasket I thinmk I'll just turn that crankshaft for safe procedure. Also, I saw this comment of yours to other (your comment was years ago and I saw it minutes ago) Video who made same issue but different Corolla model (pontiac vibe was his car as I remember), still your corollas leak occurs?
@piston ring thanks, I hope I can do it later without any mistake to the procedure, I think this issue is also easy but if so happen you fail at pop ing up back the tensioner which by rotating the crank shaft. I think also rotating clock wise the alternator pulley also have the same result as long as I would here the click sounds.
Did u put the engine in TDC? Or at least to a position where the camshaft(s) wont jump teeth when you removed the tensioner Love your channel!!!!! U should have 1m subs
@briansmobile1 10 months ago As soon as the engine rotates in either direction it releases. Best practice is to rotate it clockwise by the bolt in the center of the HB pulley just 5° and then back. You'll hear it zip out.
Hello I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S it keeps leaking oil I just had the alternator and water pump changed can someone tell me what’s going on please???
911 big mistake in this video you must turn the engine counter clock wise to release the tensioner spring !!!!!!! You have to or it won’t engage !!!! Watch other videos !!!!!
How did you keep the timing chain from changing position while removing tension on the chain? Just hope you dont bump the vehicle and drop the chain or is there a tool.
The tensioner is on the slack side of the chain and the teeth maintain contact the whole time. As soon as the engine rotates, it will release tension and go tight. The new chains will have a light or dark colored link that coresponds with the cam gear and the crank gear. If you have those right, you can't go wrong. They were in the right position when you take it off and they'll still be in the right position when you put it back.
@@briansmobile1 hi may I ask the timming valve control, do you have to close or compress or lock it before you put it back in??? I am thinking mark the line marker on the top before take it out, and put back the same side with before on the top?? after put a new gasket, is there anything else I have to adjust or watch out , thanks you
briansmobile1 Not yet. I just ordered a charcoal canister and purge control valve solenoid to see if that is my issue first since those are easier to replace. If not, I'll try ordering the filler tube with the shut off valve.
When I bump position III of the key to start it. (pick your jaw up off the floor- I know, I had the same reaction when I was taught this) I wish I would have shown that in the video. It's controversial, but it works every time and it saves you having to pull the wheel and skirt or the valve cover. The inside top of the curve of the hook is sloped so when you drag out the slack of the cam wheel at the top, the chain whacks the plunger-plunger pin hits that slope cut on the hook and knocks the hook out of the way. Then the plunger violently extends at the chain before the car can start.
I've seen videos that explain, after replacing the gasket, you have to turn the crankshaft half a turn counterclockwise until you hear a "click" and then you have to turn the crank wheel clockwise 1-2 turns, is this necessary? Or can these steps be omitted
@briansmobile1 3 years ago Clockwise. You can turn the key and it will set immediately. It takes some confidence and it's scary the 1st time, but once I was taught that way on an engine stand on a build- you watch it go and it's pretty straight
I just got a 2012 Toyota Corolla S 1.8l i4. 155,000mi. Just broke in. No problems. Why do you compress that timing chain tensioner before you put it back in? How does it get unhooked? New stuff to me. Thanks
Dude I’ve been noticing a leak right in the back of the car? It’s weird. It’s right in the middle of the back passenger seats. I don’t know what the hell it could be. I took pictures of and oily yellow/brown maybe reddish color. Please help
what they dident tell you is how to relase the timming chain tensioner is to put a 19mm socket on the crank and rotate clockwise untl you hear the tensioner relase
Need help - I got 2013 Corolla LE with 194k KM, changed oil regularly. When I bought at 151k KM, it used to give me 600KM for full 40L Tank. It gradually decreased to only 450KM for full tank. Also sometimes I smell gas or rotten egg smell while driving. Any advice?
Service Manual states "Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, then disconnect the hook from plunger knock pin" This is with the valve cover off assuring the pin unlocks ans tighten properly .
@briansmobile1 10 months ago As soon as the engine rotates in either direction it releases. Best practice is to rotate it clockwise by the bolt in the center of the HB pulley just 5° and then back. You'll hear it zip out.
If your hook is moving smoothly you can just crank the engine over. The timing chain with feed/slap into the guide- guide hits the plunger and it releases. You can also manually bump the chain guide via the oil filler using a screw driver.
I would describe it like a mouse trap that is set. As soon as the chain slaps the guide the hook is knocked out of the way and the piston extends almost instantly.
I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla and I see a small amount of oil coming from the back so I'm thinking that is the tensioner do I have to put the engine in top dead center?
DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE WITHOUT TENSIONER IN PLACE AND ENGAGED. Especially if you've had material taken off the deck for a head gasket replacement, as the chain will have ever-so-slightly more slack in it than usual and CAN end up running itself off a sprocket. To re-install tensioner, you don't have to rotate the engine backwards, you just have to barely nudge the crankshaft in that direction (backwards/counter-clockwise). This will cause the chain on the tensioner side to tighten just enough to depress the tensioner and release the hook. Then you're good to go. Yes, good. You can do this other ways, I've heard of people even bumping the starter (though I wouldn't recommend it). The reason Toyota recommends running it counter-clockwise just a bit, in this way, is because it's damn-near foolproof. The tensioner-side of the chain tightens, the tensioner has no choice but to unhook... then just run it forward a bit and the chain will loosen and the tensioner will engage.
The 1zz engines common oil leak doesn't come from the chain tensioner, but from the chain cover between the engine block and head. This is due to the head sticking a tiny bit further out than the block. To fix this small oil leak the chain cover has to be taken off, and some gasket maker is then applied right where the block meets the head.
Nope. That's one of those flying Accords that runs on the static electricity in the air. This is a terrestrial internal combustion engine Corolla. Those Accords don't come out for another 18,997 years.
Haa, hit an extra key which added many years to it. Thanks for the detailed answer though. So Still, is it similar to the one on a 2015 Honda Discord? whoops, I mean, obviously an Accord? Hee, hee.
No. @briansmobile1 10 months ago As soon as the engine rotates in either direction it releases. Best practice is to rotate it clockwise by the bolt in the center of the HB pulley just 5° and then back. You'll hear it zip out.
I need help... my tensioner didn’t go in that easy. I had to push sorta hard to even get the two threads to barely show so I could thread the bolts on? Then afterwards my check engine light comes on and it’s throwing a p0016 code now smh? I don’t know if I threw it outta time or what?!
Tim Li I had to push it sorta hard with both hands to expose the threads so I could get the nuts started. But right after getting it on I started the car and my check engine light and slip indicator light came on and they won’t go off at all. It’s throwing a p0016 code which means correlation with cam shaft and timing chain. So I’m guessing I threw it outta time. But what’s odd is the car still runs pretty much how it always has
@@tylersanders3818 Thanks for the reply man! I resolved it by turning the engine counter-clockwise slowly until I heard a subtle click sound, and then I can push the tensioner in without problem! Also after the installation I turned the engine clockwise until I heard the click again. I never had the check engine light on in my car though..
i brought a new gasket from the Toyota dealer and put it in , 2 weeks later she leaks again... very slowly ... i think i might have to use Permatex gasket maker instead if the OEM gasket...
@@patrickl7212 just use the OEM gasket, the leak is really like a slow seepage, i didn't brother to change to Permatex , it been 2 years now, the amount of oil seeping through is really negligible.
U just pull it out......I swear those words sounding familiar ......never the less don't loose focus..back to t point..u need to release d chain tension first
If the threaded Shafts that pull the Tensioner in where an inch longer non of these steps would need to be taken! No need to lock the tensioner back and no need to Turn anything Clockwise or Counter Clockwise! Just Remove The Old Crap and Replace the Gasket with a new one! The Nuts would Pull it in, in the same place as weak one or defective crap! This is a recall on SAFETY Lexus VVT But On Toyota they feel You have Airbags When your Chain slips and your stranded on the Highway! So If your willing to spend on a LEXUS they got you covered! FREE REPAIR! for their Toyota Model if You Bought a Toyota with the same 1.8ltr AIRBAGS and your all set! I Drive a 1995 ASTRO VAN My 5th GM and this has never been a Problem because Americans would make the Nuts/Bolts one inch longer and all my American cars went at least 200.000 miles-500.000 and only flaw was break lines and gas lines in Massachusetts! Go Subaru 2.0 XT that needs nothing! Its not the car that is dependable its the thankful Mechanic that it will not constantly need something like my Toyota Corolla 2010 with 35k miles! If you give a mechanic an inch WE CAN"T MAKE ANY MONEY! This is why we can't make cars! TAX in the free country and the American dream?
@@sonyfxi you need to locate the crankshaft pulley first. After you find it, you're going to need a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. On most vehicles you rotate clockwise and that should cause the tensioner to release. I would verify if clockwise is the direction for your engine.
You didn't cover rotating the crank a few degrees backwards to release the tensioner. Very important.
Thanks for the tip Mike. I released the tension by removing the holding nuts. Rotating the engine backwards collects all the slack in the chain to where the tensioner is. It's already gathered there anyway. It's important to wash your hands after you use the bathroom (I always do that) it's also important to hold onto the railing when you go up or down stairs ( I never do that). etc.
@@briansmobile1 You should add this step on the text of this video. Some ignorance may start the engine before releasing the tensioner and can damage the whole engine. it is a moral duty when sharing DIY
Good call Mike Fennema. You can hear the tensioner reset when you do that. Always good to research multiple sources.
Haha I was just about to say, I hope he didn't start it up without rotating it counter clockwise a bit😬
Yeah I would call this a failed video
Yeah, I agree you need to emphasize releasing the tensioner Brian. Extremely important! Or at least touch on how to do it
I bought my 2000 Corolla which has 1ZZ-FE engine back in 2016, and it had this pretty much the same timing chain tensioner. It keeps leaking, and the dip stick went from high to low in about 2k miles. I took it to few repair shops and none of them told me that I need that gasket until recently. Once the gasket was put in, the dip stick drop about 1/3 between high and low after 2k miles.
This is one of the most common cause of oil consumption which isn't really consumption, but leakage. So much talk about 8th gen Corolla with 1ZZ-FE engine burning oil, and I think that's just a joke. Not much people really know what's wrong.
Once the engine leak enough oil, the rest of the oil inside the engine will just get worked harder, so they turn black faster. If the owner doesn't pay attention to it which most owners don't, the engine will get gunked up oil fast. That will make it looks like burning oil, but it actually is not.
I had no idea this fix was so easy.. tensioner on my girlfriends car has been leaking like a cut siev and I thought it was the cover.. already on the phone to Toyota ordering a new tensioner!! Thank you!!
Yes you can do this yourself, just make sure it’s the tensioner gasket and not the timing cover. You can actually do it with a quarter inch ratchet without jacking the vehicle up if you reach over the back of the valve cover. I use a quarter inch ratchet with a deep well magnetic 10mm socket. After reinstalling make sure to turn the crank clockwise by hand until you hear three clicks telling you the tensioner deployed. If you just stick it in and crank the car up it can possibly jump time.
Yup thought he left out that very important step . If you don't there are major ramifications.
Wow! What a fantastic video. Thank you. I am going to begin diagnosing the leak on my girlfriend's Toyota Corolla this weekend. I will start here. Also, thank you to the viewer comments for adding additional feedback.
Brian you vids are brilliant, you are my go to media / youtube mechnic. Your vids have helped me keep my old 2001 Corolla going strong. Please do a vid, on the notorious Corolla 1.8 liter valve seals replacement if you haven't already done so, or a link to a good video showing valve seal replacement for the 2001 Toyota Corolla s....Thanks, Peace P.S. I was quoted $500+ for complete remanufactured head with all new seals, from local chain auto parts retailer, I think I'll save my money and replace valve seals myself :). Crazyhorse.
You and D6Spanky make a great team. Nice fix too.
My girlfriend has a cricut maker! I never thought to do this. Now how to figure out how to make it an SVG... wow, the possibilities this unlocks! Great idea, thanks!
Thank you for this video because it was very informative. I bought new gasket from dealer for 7 dollars and replaced it today so i hope it solves my leak issue on my 2007 corolla
It has been nearly 6 months and 10k kilometres since i did this oil leak repair and today on inspection engine was completely dry from outside.
Nice job, Brian.
This video is really helpful to me
(Thank You)😇
Great repair! I've done this exact repair on my 2002 Celica and 2003 Pontiac Vibe. One additional step upon installing the tensioner I included was to manually rotate the engine clockwise to release the tensioner prior to start up. I normally did this by rotating the alternator/serpentine belt. I have not seen a 1ZZ/2ZZ that did not have this leak.
Thanks Brian and Scotty K for your great videos!
what if I do not manually rotate the engine? ANd just let it releases the tension by itself when I start the engine? ?? is this ok?
After replacing mine on 2003 corolla I just crank the engine like two to three times without starting the car. And finally started the car and viola all was good
@@tichawilfred6222 is it possible to overtighten the 19mm bolt? My belt feels stiff now
some videos tell you to turn it a tiny bit counter clock wise till you hear a click then clockwise again. which one is it? please help lol
Great vid Thanks!! Exactly my problem
Great vid !!! I’m saving the same problem on my celica.
99 corolla i just bought and noticed alot of oil on that side. Thought it might be oil pan but too much oil above pan and on smog pump. Gonna check this first so thanks for the tip.
After watching this video, then I check my 2009 Toyota Corolla, and yes, I have oil and dirt around that area and I think I have a small leaks. I will monitor it. Thanks for the video.
Welcome! LLAP!
I was wondering at first what crickets had to do with a car. Suddenly it hit me, my best friend has that cutting machine... Cricut... OOOH! YES! Brilliant! Well, looks like we can save some money on gaskets! GREAT TIP! (Plus, she has a corolla that needs works, hence why I clicked on this. DOUBLE WHAMMY! TYVM!)
Looking at this on my Toyota corolla e11 1.4, looks like someones gone in before with some sort of yellow gasket sealer, also my rocker gasket's leaking from a bad PCV valve. Hoping any standard one will do.
My questiono is... drum roll. Does that clip you fasten the tensioner down with, automatically release when you fasten the case down, other guides suggest you need to look at the time chain cover and look at whether it's top dead center?
Good info
Do have a video of the lift points for using a floor jack for a 2012 Kia Forte 4-door?
Do you used the dye to find the oil leak I got a 11 corolla with a leak around timing cove
New oring and a dab of Toyota FIPG and haven't had a leak since.
Haha lol I was wondering yesterday where spanky has been! What a coincidence.
I didn't see how to release the tensioner after installing it back. 😁 Good tip on the sealant. They do leak all the time.
You don't. The timing chain does it automatically. Good question!
briansmobile1 I was curious about that as well. Does the timing chain just slap the hook and release it or something ?
The chain slaps a guide that pushes on the tensioner and that pushes on the hook and then the spring rebounds it tight. The most brief bump in and it pops it tight.
My question asked and answered.
So is that pretty instantaneous when you start the engine or does that take time or just slap it in and forget about it
I’ve noticed some models have a O ring an a gasket this one doesn’t have the o ring.
What if my Prius doesn’t have an ignition but instead just a button? Brian you mention by turning the key to position 3 it would automatically release the tensioner but what if I only have a button?
Thank you so much i was so stressed when i first saw The leak
I am having the exact problem right now
@@williamboateng4966 What year? My Corolla is 2013
Excellent demonstration, how about to unlock the hook which locked the tensioner body assembly. Which direction to turn the crank first, counter clockwise or clockwise? Thx
Clockwise. You can turn the key and it will set immediately. It takes some confidence and it's scary the 1st time, but once I was taught that way on an engine stand on a build- you watch it go and it's pretty straight forward/convincing.
Brian, is that a church building at the end of the video? Nice backdrop.
Good video, Have a question, should I worry about timing chain fell of sprocket, while removing chain tensioner?
We have 3 Toyotas, and 2 of them are leaking~
It won't fall off if you don't rotate the engine in any way while the tensioner is out.
I like the right stuff to.
Is it the same on a 1990 Toyota Corolla with a 1600 cc engine?
Would the oil drain to the ground? The location of the leak is right where you said but I don’t know if it could reach the ground?
My 2002 Celica GT with the 1ZZ has been seeping oil from the timing chain tensioner for 10 years, and still no problems. Just make sure you change your oil, but it is not a 'do or die' issue.
LiftedX how do you keep your alternator from going out due to being coated in oil?
@@saltlife910 Engine doesn't leak oil after 280,000 km, so your question is bankrupt.
Doesn't your celica "burn" or lets call it "magically evaporate" oil like crazy? I'm thinking about buying one but I've read way too many forums complaining about "oil burning" and having to constantly refill the engine with oil and stuff like that. Please tell me if you have had any issues related to these. I really like the car but I'm scared it might have this issue. And I'm just praying it isn't the piston rings' design that everyone is crying about...
@@krebsebubrek552 Had the car since 2009 and now have 301,000 km. It never burned oil until I got up to 280,000 kms, despite doing regular oil changes. Normal for an older car. Oil is seeping from the tensioner chain and the oil pan, but it does not leak out as if the oil is streaming and puddling on the ground below the engine bay. Just bubbles. Some oil being burned internally likely due to new leaks in the engine valves or rings due to normal wear and tear. Adding a half quart in between oil changes. At this stage If I care anymore, I can throw anything at the car like engine leak sealers and fuel injector cleaners, and it is a reliable.
Anyone know what size bolt that is i known the nut is like an 9 or 8mm b I t what size is the bolt because my bolt broke and need to find a way to fix it
I notice my oil pressure sensor under the tensioner is leaking too. I think I could use locktite 243? I know this works on Subaru oil pressure sensors.
Not saying this is the correct way, but I reset (unhooked) the tensioner after reinstalling it by unplugging all 4 coil pack connections via the plastic wire harnesses and started the car. Obviously it just turned over the engine without firing. Then I reconnected coil pack wire harnesses and started car up like normal. This will likely give you a check engine light though.
I like your channel, bro. Like from me!
It can be done from the top. Easy to reach, only two bolts. But visibility is the issue.
does the little hook release once you put that back in the car?
our 2010 corolla s has 186900 miles and I noticed it had used a bit of oil, when I got under the car to do the brakes and an oil change I noticed what appeared to be an oil leak that I thought was coming from this exact area.
As soon as the engine rotates in either direction it releases. Best practice is to rotate it clockwise by the bolt in the center of the HB pulley just 5° and then back. You'll hear it zip out.
Nice. Dont you need to turn your engine slowly verylittle counterclockwise(wrongway) before that tensioner can make a tension again(release the locking hook via chain quide)?
or can you release it via Oil fill cap on this engine?
Do NOT rotate it the opposite way. Doing that would put slack on the drive side. It might still work, but it's not necessary. The chain slack collects at the tensioner right where you want it anyway. When you park the car for service the chain is taught on the drive side and all the slack is at the tensioner side. All you have to do is put the tensioner back securely and crank the starter over smoothly/start it. The chain will slap the guide into the tensioner and it will bump the hook to the right and the spring will set tension.
And that is the hole idea, putting tension in tension side so the chainguide can hit on the tensioner axel and release the tensioner locking hook.
But dont turn more then that you need for that. Anyway thats what i have read from some manufacture repairmauals for "just" chaintensioner replaysments.
Never i have read one that you could just start when tensioner is loked via that hook. I would be more afraid doing that.
But thenagain iam the guy, that wants to be sure. So car dont start ever on firsth time i crank, when i have changed oil operated thing (tensioners, vvt,...).
So i know they get oil before i made it go from starters ~300 to engine runing idel~2000rpm in ms and hope they dont give up on me.
I can attest to what B is saying. Thanks for the help too!
Спасибо 👍
I did this on my corolla 1998 and my son's corolla 2002. From time to time, oil leaks return. Tired fixing them. Hope those who did this made it a success.
Hi I am concern to our Corolla 2002, I'm not sure if should turn clockwise after installing the tensioner with new O-ring gasket I thinmk I'll just turn that crankshaft for safe procedure.
Also, I saw this comment of yours to other (your comment was years ago and I saw it minutes ago) Video who made same issue but different Corolla model (pontiac vibe was his car as I remember), still your corollas leak occurs?
@@draxus1266 i do still have the leaks
@@draxus1266 yes, turn clo kwise and youll hear a click
@piston ring thanks, I hope I can do it later without any mistake to the procedure, I think this issue is also easy but if so happen you fail at pop ing up back the tensioner which by rotating the crank shaft. I think also rotating clock wise the alternator pulley also have the same result as long as I would here the click sounds.
@@pistonring1399 sad, isn't your new issue was head cover gasket leak and not in the tensioner part?
What are you doing after you returned it?
Did u put the engine in TDC? Or at least to a position where the camshaft(s) wont jump teeth when you removed the tensioner
Love your channel!!!!! U should have 1m subs
Is this necessary? I had a weird noise after replacing our corolla's Tensioner O-ring. Have I screwed my Engine component or my timing chain?
@@draxus1266 do you still have the sound?
@briansmobile1
10 months ago
As soon as the engine rotates in either direction it releases.
Best practice is to rotate it clockwise by the bolt in the center of the HB pulley just 5° and then back.
You'll hear it zip out.
Hello I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S it keeps leaking oil I just had the alternator and water pump changed can someone tell me what’s going on please???
I love permatex I got there nickel anti seize, di electric grease, and there red rtv.
Kindly note that your two uses of "there" should be "their".
911 big mistake in this video you must turn the engine counter clock wise to release the tensioner spring !!!!!!!
You have to or it won’t engage !!!! Watch other videos !!!!!
How did you keep the timing chain from changing position while removing tension on the chain? Just hope you dont bump the vehicle and drop the chain or is there a tool.
The tensioner is on the slack side of the chain and the teeth maintain contact the whole time. As soon as the engine rotates, it will release tension and go tight. The new chains will have a light or dark colored link that coresponds with the cam gear and the crank gear. If you have those right, you can't go wrong. They were in the right position when you take it off and they'll still be in the right position when you put it back.
@@briansmobile1 hi may I ask the timming valve control, do you have to close or compress or lock it before you put it back in??? I am thinking mark the line marker on the top before take it out, and put back the same side with before on the top?? after put a new gasket, is there anything else I have to adjust or watch out , thanks you
Any chance you want to do a video on how to replace a fuel filler neck on a 2008 Outback?
Sure. Have you sourced a new one?
briansmobile1 Not yet. I just ordered a charcoal canister and purge control valve solenoid to see if that is my issue first since those are easier to replace. If not, I'll try ordering the filler tube with the shut off valve.
thanks for the video finally the culprit is found😃 did you have an excessive oil loss and that fixed the problem, or only a small leak? thanks!
Is your car a diesel?
I have a 2.2 d4d with a big oil leak
@@samcirkus1525 no.
Hi Brians, Good Video! But, when you release the tensioner?
When I bump position III of the key to start it. (pick your jaw up off the floor- I know, I had the same reaction when I was taught this) I wish I would have shown that in the video. It's controversial, but it works every time and it saves you having to pull the wheel and skirt or the valve cover. The inside top of the curve of the hook is sloped so when you drag out the slack of the cam wheel at the top, the chain whacks the plunger-plunger pin hits that slope cut on the hook and knocks the hook out of the way. Then the plunger violently extends at the chain before the car can start.
@@briansmobile1 so basically you are saying you just start the car?
Can't you just use a breaker bar and socket to rotate cam pulley?
Great job thanks, I have a question though do you have the turn engine before you start the car so it releases the tensioner?
Yes do that...
@@automanfix hi frank can I just turn the alternator nut instead of engine pulls it will work to release the piston of timing chain tensioner?
I've seen videos that explain, after replacing the gasket, you have to turn the crankshaft half a turn counterclockwise until you hear a "click" and then you have to turn the crank wheel clockwise 1-2 turns, is this necessary? Or can these steps be omitted
@briansmobile1
3 years ago
Clockwise. You can turn the key and it will set immediately. It takes some confidence and it's scary the 1st time, but once I was taught that way on an engine stand on a build- you watch it go and it's pretty straight
I have a corolla 2,06 mechanic saying oil leak timing cover not sure if this is the same thing 😜
I just got a 2012 Toyota Corolla S 1.8l i4. 155,000mi. Just broke in. No problems. Why do you compress that timing chain tensioner before you put it back in? How does it get unhooked? New stuff to me. Thanks
Rotating the engine manually before starting it...read these comments.
What does this part do?
Mines just started leaking 2016 Toyota Corolla
Dude I’ve been noticing a leak right in the back of the car? It’s weird. It’s right in the middle of the back passenger seats. I don’t know what the hell it could be. I took pictures of and oily yellow/brown maybe reddish color. Please help
Do I have to push that tensioner in n lock it before I install it back on the engine
Yes
Which engine is this, 2ZR?
What year is this car?
What year Corolla ?
شغل جيدا
This video is 1 ⭐️ only you not explain the right way
did you discard the flat gasket or did you put permatex on top of it?
Permatex on top of it...
what they dident tell you is how to relase the timming chain tensioner is to put a 19mm socket on the crank and rotate clockwise untl you hear the tensioner relase
Yeah that's some pretty important information they forgot to mention.
Bro, you need some nyquil or sudafed
Need help - I got 2013 Corolla LE with 194k KM, changed oil regularly. When I bought at 151k KM, it used to give me 600KM for full 40L Tank. It gradually decreased to only 450KM for full tank. Also sometimes I smell gas or rotten egg smell while driving. Any advice?
Rotten Egg smell is often from a severely overcharged battery
Did you ever figure it out?
@@professorjack2099 Not yet, sorry
@@rajsebastian3083 lol check under for roadkill
Service Manual states "Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, then disconnect the hook from plunger knock pin"
This is with the valve cover off assuring the pin unlocks ans tighten properly .
It probably does. And every single one I've done for a little leak like this whether on a 3RZ, 22R, 22RE etc. has been fine every time.
How do you get the hook on the tensioner to release?
@briansmobile1
10 months ago
As soon as the engine rotates in either direction it releases. Best practice is to rotate it clockwise by the bolt in the center of the HB pulley just 5° and then back. You'll hear it zip out.
How does the tensioner release after installing?
Yea Was Wondering The Same Thing ..
If your hook is moving smoothly you can just crank the engine over. The timing chain with feed/slap into the guide- guide hits the plunger and it releases. You can also manually bump the chain guide via the oil filler using a screw driver.
That's what it's designed to do.
how does it "unlock" itself for piston to come out if you pushed the clip onto that nub?
I would describe it like a mouse trap that is set. As soon as the chain slaps the guide the hook is knocked out of the way and the piston extends almost instantly.
I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla and I see a small amount of oil coming from the back so I'm thinking that is the tensioner do I have to put the engine in top dead center?
Erick Salas
No. Simply remove the tensioner and reinstall after sealing the gasket.
Yes you do!!!! the valve springs can cause the timing chain to skip a tooth if you don't and you can ruin your motor. Some ppl get lucky thou
Have same issue on my 06 , will take it Down to D and M auto in Fredericton Nb. when I do my oil change.
The valve cover gasket is usually leaking as well so i release the hook on the Tensioner with a long screwdriver before i re install the valve cover.
DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE WITHOUT TENSIONER IN PLACE AND ENGAGED. Especially if you've had material taken off the deck for a head gasket replacement, as the chain will have ever-so-slightly more slack in it than usual and CAN end up running itself off a sprocket. To re-install tensioner, you don't have to rotate the engine backwards, you just have to barely nudge the crankshaft in that direction (backwards/counter-clockwise). This will cause the chain on the tensioner side to tighten just enough to depress the tensioner and release the hook. Then you're good to go. Yes, good. You can do this other ways, I've heard of people even bumping the starter (though I wouldn't recommend it). The reason Toyota recommends running it counter-clockwise just a bit, in this way, is because it's damn-near foolproof. The tensioner-side of the chain tightens, the tensioner has no choice but to unhook... then just run it forward a bit and the chain will loosen and the tensioner will engage.
That's exactly how I do/did it for mine with the 2ZR-FE engine.
The same for 2ZZ?
does the tensioner release on its own after installation?
It does not, you must rotate crank counterclockwise (see other comments for details).
@@ronski50 thanks bud!
cool
Thanks Bob!
The 1zz engines common oil leak doesn't come from the chain tensioner, but from the chain cover between the engine block and head. This is due to the head sticking a tiny bit further out than the block. To fix this small oil leak the chain cover has to be taken off, and some gasket maker is then applied right where the block meets the head.
I work for Toyota it’s super common for timing cover leaks more thuan anything in our engines
@@a1axel738 Yep, that’s what i described here
@a1 axel do you have Facebook or snapchat because I wanna take a picture of my engine and send it to you so you can tell me what you think
Is that true for the 3s-fe?
Nice video BUT YOU SHOULD HAVE SHOWED WHERE EXACTLY IT IS , I MEAN FROM THE BOTTOM UP THEN A CLOSE UP
Literally said it's on the passenger side behind the sub frame. I mean come on now how much more specific could he be 🤣
Is this tensioner similar on the 2015 Honda Accord?
Nope. That's one of those flying Accords that runs on the static electricity in the air. This is a terrestrial internal combustion engine Corolla. Those Accords don't come out for another 18,997 years.
Haa, hit an extra key which added many years to it. Thanks for the detailed answer though.
So Still, is it similar to the one on a 2015 Honda Discord? whoops, I mean, obviously an Accord? Hee, hee.
Found out my Honda has a timing belt so,, asked too soon,
Toyota Camry 2.4 (2007) have this.?
Fixing the oil leakage for the tension do I have to set timing
No.
@briansmobile1
10 months ago
As soon as the engine rotates in either direction it releases.
Best practice is to rotate it clockwise by the bolt in the center of the HB pulley just 5° and then back. You'll hear it zip out.
That was some quick turn around!
Was that you in the video Spanky? 😎
Dylan I don't know anyone else that hot.
Oh ok. So this is an old video 🙃
Looking good D6Spanky, professionally speaking of course. :)
Dylan this was last night. Are you about to get into trouble again?
You didn't release the tensioner from the hook
Is this the 1zz engine?
yes
I need help... my tensioner didn’t go in that easy. I had to push sorta hard to even get the two threads to barely show so I could thread the bolts on? Then afterwards my check engine light comes on and it’s throwing a p0016 code now smh? I don’t know if I threw it outta time or what?!
I am having the same problem. The tensioner won't go in that easy. How did you resolve it?
Tim Li I had to push it sorta hard with both hands to expose the threads so I could get the nuts started. But right after getting it on I started the car and my check engine light and slip indicator light came on and they won’t go off at all. It’s throwing a p0016 code which means correlation with cam shaft and timing chain. So I’m guessing I threw it outta time. But what’s odd is the car still runs pretty much how it always has
@@tylersanders3818 Thanks for the reply man! I resolved it by turning the engine counter-clockwise slowly until I heard a subtle click sound, and then I can push the tensioner in without problem! Also after the installation I turned the engine clockwise until I heard the click again. I never had the check engine light on in my car though..
Hi. Same thing here. So are you still driving with the code or did you have to get the timing repaired?
Brujo Diez I went to a mechanic to get it fixed.. he confirmed that it was out of time. He only charged me 450$ to do it to!
i brought a new gasket from the Toyota dealer and put it in , 2 weeks later she leaks again... very slowly ... i think i might have to use Permatex gasket maker instead if the OEM gasket...
Did you get around to using gasket maker? I have both Permatex and new gasket. I am set to do the job tomorrow.
@@patrickl7212 just use the OEM gasket, the leak is really like a slow seepage, i didn't brother to change to Permatex , it been 2 years now, the amount of oil seeping through is really negligible.
@@airbornepotato OK. Thanks. I did the job with the OEM gasket. No leaks yet.
Completing the job by starting it would of bene great. Verbal insurance is not good at all dealing with a chain
Thanks. That's good advice.
It would have been great, yes.
Toyota diagnosed my Corolla with this problem and wants to charge me 2500 bucks to fix it. Greedy bastards...thanks for making this video.
I think i have the same problem too, just noticed last week, did u buy new part or change the gasket?? how is it work out ???
which year/generation is that corolla?
2010
Safer to have Spanky apply Yamahabond than SpermaTex :-)
U just pull it out......I swear those words sounding familiar ......never the less don't loose focus..back to t point..u need to release d chain tension first
What year corollas does this cover?
Most of them. Check out that guy's video in the description. He covers that up to 2008. This one was a 2010.
Most Toyotas 1.8 2000-2016
Would a 1999 Tercel have a similar issue?
I think the tercel is a 1.5L I'd expect that leak to be a valve cover gasket or cam seal.
@@briansmobile1 5efe engine. 1.5L yes. Do you know where to see a cam seal repair on RUclips for that engine?
Doesn't the engine have to be at tdc ?
No. Install the timing chain tensioner and then rotate the crank slightly with a 19mm socket, or "bump start" the ignition. It will click into place.
If the threaded Shafts that pull the Tensioner in where an inch longer non of these steps would need to be taken! No need to lock the tensioner back and no need to Turn anything Clockwise or Counter Clockwise! Just Remove The Old Crap and Replace the Gasket with a new one! The Nuts would Pull it in, in the same place as weak one or defective crap! This is a recall on SAFETY Lexus VVT But On Toyota they feel You have Airbags When your Chain slips and your stranded on the Highway! So If your willing to spend on a LEXUS they got you covered! FREE REPAIR! for their Toyota Model if You Bought a Toyota with the same 1.8ltr AIRBAGS and your all set! I Drive a 1995 ASTRO VAN My 5th GM and this has never been a Problem because Americans would make the Nuts/Bolts one inch longer and all my American cars went at least 200.000 miles-500.000 and only flaw was break lines and gas lines in Massachusetts! Go Subaru 2.0 XT that needs nothing!
Its not the car that is dependable its the thankful Mechanic that it will not constantly need something like my Toyota Corolla 2010 with 35k miles!
If you give a mechanic an inch WE CAN"T MAKE ANY MONEY! This is why we can't make cars! TAX in the free country and the American dream?
Was up dude
Not me! I've been stuck in the garage for days.
I have 2005 Carolla 1.8 oil leak by left back side thanks for the video got 29999 plus , good replace ratchet .
You might want to mention to manually crank so the tensioner extends. Starting the car without it being extended can damage it.
Newbie here. How do I manually crank tensioner after installing?
@@sonyfxi you need to locate the crankshaft pulley first. After you find it, you're going to need a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. On most vehicles you rotate clockwise and that should cause the tensioner to release. I would verify if clockwise is the direction for your engine.
mrmynameis19 Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙌🏻
I think the oil leak came from the rubber ring of timing chain tensioner.