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Making Soft Silicone Lenses at Home
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- Do you want to make molds for soft silicone lenses with just a basic CNC mill at home? Or do you need acrylic lenses made with just a few basic materials?
More info can be found in the blog post: volzo.de/posts...
Videos I recommended:
Making Lenses with a CNC Router Part 1 by Brauns CNC:
• Making Lenses with a C...
Optical finish for acrylic -- vapor polishing and other techniques by Applied Science:
• Optical finish for acr...
Making DIY Lenses with Epoxy by Breaking Taps:
• Make Your Own Optical ...
Improve your polishing with 3D printing by Adam the machinist:
• Improve your polishing...
Polishing a Small Spherical Mirror Surface on a Glass Blank by Huygens Optics:
• Polishing a Small Sphe...
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Timeline:
00:00 Introduction
03:52 Video recommendations
04:19 Mold materials
05:21 Toolpaths
06:17 Endmills
07:49 Polishing and grinding
13:05 Silicone
17:40 Problems
18:35 Outro
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Blog: volzo.de
Twitter: / vlztn
Why is this channel so underrated?
The quality and effort put into this is collossal
Don't worry about subscriber or view numbers. Your content is REALLY Interesting and great to watch. PLEASE continue making them!
I just found your channel and your videos are so good!!!!
TIP to remove air: Use pressure. About 4 bar. There is a thing called in english something like: dissolution of air in plastic (Растворимость воздуха в пластических массах- in russian) Main principle is as pressire rise, trapped air dissolves in plastic (or silicone). But! You need to keep pressure through the whole curing cycle
Thanks, I've seen this only done when (hard) resins are used, I'll put that on the list of things to test.
Super interesting video. Maybe I missed it but I was hoping you’d explain what you needed a flexible lens for. I can think of a few applications, but I’m very interested to hear what your use-case is!
A soft silicone attachment that can be pressed against camera lenses and allows to sense some basic deformation gestures to process user input. Then unused cameras of small devices can be temporarily repurposed to get additional physical input elements like buttons, knobs, or d-pads on devices that may have too few or no physical input elements at all. The video about this project is done, but I can't publish it yet.
@@vlztnWhoa! Thanks for that explanation! I was thinking more military or industrial applications but it’s super cool to think of it as an input device.
Dude you are a video making machine! Another amazing video.
As you have already built a pouring mechanism inside your chamber, you might as well do the mixing in vacuum and completely get rid of the bubbles prior to that
That's considerably more complicated, I am not sure if the results are worth the effort. (But you could say that about the pouring mechanism already 😅)
Thanks for sharing this inventive polishing technique.
Hoping you'll show the resulting product.
Excelent video! one tip: some time ago i made some homemade lenses with acrylic; i polished them on a lathe and here are the tips...
* I used sandpaper till reached 1500 grain; then switched to coarse polishing paste, fine polishing paste and ultra fine polishing paste (search for "car optic polishing paste", i used one from a brand called Zeocar, it is quite good)
* Another tip is to use a microfiber/cotton cloth for polishing, still using the mold.
* If you rotate either the mold or the tool; spin it super fast when polishing and add some water/lubricant to cool it down... This made the tool "hidroplane" on the surface and makes better quality
I tried some general plastic polishing pastes and one for car paint and none really worked out well, maybe because the metal surface had direct contact to the acrylic. Just putting some microfiber cloth as a compliant layer in between is a good point!
if you want to polish acrylic, you should use the "paper" like polishing pads that are used for acrylic lenses. they have a flower like shape and can be bonded to spherical surfaces. like is shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/xfhjWyAU9Cw/видео.html. The process only takes a few minutes.
Ah, I will definitely try that next! Thanks a lot!
could you maybe buy a positive of the lens you want, make a negative from that out of plastic or resin maybe, and then use that as the mold for the final product?
I tried that and had a few issues with this process. When using resin for the negative mold you're limited with regard to geometry because your resin mold is rigid and you need to separate it from the first lens+plastic mold. When using silicone for the second mold instead, every surface needs to be coated with mold release so silicone won't bind to silicone and this ruins the surface quality.
Do a short on your 3D Printer stirrer!
thanks but where can we see some example photos?
You can see some image data in the follow up video: ruclips.net/video/lyz52IzMcnM/видео.html
Any reason you didn't vapor polish the last bit?
Two main reasons: I am a bit hesitant to work with chemicals. In the Applied Science video I linked Ben used methylene chloride for vapor polishing which doesn't seem to be extremely toxic, but not exactly harmless either. And I was not sure how well I can control the vapor polishing effect. I need only the curved surface to be polished but the rest of the acrylic part is already exactly how it should be to be as tight as possible when used as a mold.
what happen if you expose the lenses at a sferical hot of metal to try to level the macro scrashes to clean and a very worked lense
That would be "compression molding". I guess that works well, too, but I might assume that process is slightly more complicated (haven't tried that).
@@vlztn no I am talking about, to expose an sferical metal and heat the metal of the sfere slowlystep by step very near to the lense of silicon and, without compresion or contact to clean the macro scraches
@@vlztn only with the heat
@@holaquevez2727 I tried that not by heating up a metal sphere but simply by using flame polishing (with a creme brûlée burner). That resulted in a very smooth and clear lens once the surface of the acrylic became soft, but the heat did deform the surface quite a lot and it was rather hard to control.
Really good video. Regarding polishing did You try dichloromethane vapors? You have to be careful with it. But the result should be extremely good if you polished the surface mechanically that far. I have a very good results with polishing PC helmet visors that way. On RUclips, it's here for example ruclips.net/video/-SV_ka1FPmM/видео.html. People in the videos are not aware of how dangerous dichloromethane is.
No, haven't heard about that before! I tried to avoid using any solvents for smoothing, as you said: that's often nasty stuff...
i can only recommend getting rid of the mouth noises on your video..
Material selection is a big deal in polishing. Not all materials can be polished equally well or at similar rates and it's important to pick an abrasive with that works well with your substrate. So a normal sort of surface to polish that definitely polishes well would be cast iron, and you can get lots of good commercial products that work well on it. You could mill it and then you could polish it. Polishing soft things like aluminum or polymers is potentially a pain, especially with diamonds, because the particles embed, and also the polishing rate can be very low.
I needed to polish some alumina ceramic surfaces for a project, did it by hand with diamond paste and it still went faster than these acrylic pieces. If you wanted to use a ceramic, the lens shape requires such little material removal that you could likely do it starting from plate stock using a diamond grinding bit. Material removal rates of at least 1 mm^3/s should be achievable even with small cheap bits (for example ILOVETOOL Spherical Grinding Ball Head 40mm Round Diamond Burr Abrasive Grinding Mounted Points), but flood coolant is a must. Cast iron (high hardness brittle stuff) can just be machined, and is definitely a good choice for polishing though. That would be my recommendation.
I'm not an expert just relating it to my limited experiences but my suspicion is that you picked a miserable way to polish this acrylic, or else there were some important details wrong with the process. Change the material or change the process. Hope this helps!
My thought about silicone lenses would be to squeeze them in order to change their shape dynamically, like in eyeballs. Is that what you wanted to do? Pretty cool.
Good points, thanks for your comment! I was a bit hesitant to try to mill cast iron on my DIY machine so using plastics and aluminium was a compromise I had to make. I guess I'll need to look into that in the future...
@@vlztn You can mill cast iron if you keep cutting forces small enough. The key is to keep the width of cutter engaged with the part at any time small. Cutting forces per width can't be reduced below a limit because the material springs back, rubs, etc. Try a fly cutter or square end mill with a relatively small radius cutting tip (.020" maybe?) using just that tip to cut. Slow milling is faster than polishing. As long as you can make a couple mm^3/s it'll be plenty fast, so grinding (in same machine) is also an option.
However, I don't know anything about polishing aluminum! Maybe it can work just fine, I just don't know.