I already managed to read a RFID tag with an electric toothbrush charger and an old AM radio. Basically the electric toorhbrush uses induction charging which means the charger produces an alternating magnetic field like the RFID reader would do. One day I had the idea to put a tag on the reader to see if it woule react and transmit its identifier, so I put the AM radio close to the charger and sure enough I could hear a very loud sound when putting the tag on the charger. I then connected the AM radio to my computer and recorded the signal in Audacity and I decoded the data. It was EM4100 tag.
I have the same reader. As soon as you approach it with a card, the LED gets slightly darker for a short time. This is visible it dark rooms, yet it is very hard. You can put the LED between the LED pin and Vcc. Then you see a small flash when you approach it
The coil is bonded by passing a high current thru it for a second or two which melts the insulation slightly while still on the winding former. It was woman's work here in the 80's ( i bet it's kids doing it now in china, the high volume stuff is at a much higher freq and gets printed.)
Wonderful video and use of the oscilloscope - as someone that codes the electronics way to test always makes me rethink how I approach things. For people talking about cloning a card, the easy security option is to have your 'reader' try to write to the card first with a specific number, then read the card. Your security logs can easily be checked for that number and show the time you need to look at the CCTV. RDFI is really easy to use in Arduino with a RC522 reader and a MFRC522 library. The most frustrating thing about RDFI are the formats you can read the ID; hexadecimal, decimal, reverse hexadecimal and reverse decimal. We have three systems that use the same card number in FIVE ways, two of the systems on different sites have different ways of reading and storing the same cards! The fith way you ask? decimal but simply replace the first 2 characters of the card with 00, because unique is over rated I guess.
Your knife. In the last video you complained about the blade not snapping cleanly. On the yellow end there is a slot. Use that to break it off. Alternatively, only expose two segments and (at an angle) push the blade against something hard. Mind your eyes as it has a habit of flying off in all directions.
Just an off the wall idea. Build a RFID reader into the bottom of a bowl, place it near the door to your shop with several tags, one for each lighting scenario, hung on the wall above it. When you enter your shop, drop the appropriate tag into the bowl and hang it back up when you leave. Extra off the wall idea, use an ESP8266 module instead of an Arduino. Have the ESP module communicate with an MQTT broker and use Node Red to activate your lighting scenario.
Hmm, that's given me an idea. A wheel of fortune where the first tag the reader successfully reads chooses 'light cluster of the day'. I've tried to get interested in the ESP, but I just can't :)
Good video. Can I suggest you get a logic analyser - When you are only interested in 1 & 0 s it's much easier than using a scope. A good USB 8 channel analyser will cost less than £10 and the software is free.
Jonathan I need your help please, please. I've got a 16 way mux connected to a MEGA 2560, the mux lines are for receiving serial input of tag info from multiple RDM6300 modules. I've connected a single module, powered from the MEGA 5v/GND and it reads perfectly from any of the 16 mux lines. However, when I connect a second module, the first one stops working as soon as the 5v/GND are connected. Neither module works. If I disconnect the GND from either module the other one starts working. I've tried using a power bank with the RDM6300s , common ground on power bank and MEGA but same result. I'm freaking out.
just dip the fob dongle in paint or add a colored tail ( could have different lengths ), they will hang on a board with hook(s) next to the reader. if tailed the length could be long enough so you dont need to remove the fob from the hook to reach the reader.
Yep, I've tried sunflower oil - didn't work. Now I want to experiment with dual fuel (diesel and veg oil in separate containers) using the different viscosities to influence the flow rates and therefore the mix ratio. Fun with fuel :)
@@JulianIlett Awesome stuff, someone else suggested that cooking oils are too viscous and if you could implement the exhaust heat to thin the oils, perhaps they would flash easier? Although implementing a dual fuel system to start the burner may work? I'm being ambitious.
It's too bad the security is absolutely zero with these devices as it's trivial to sniff a tag and copy the contents to a bank tag with the 125KHz systems. The 13MHz systems are more secure but they're still only good as either very low security keys or as one part of a two factor ID system (i.e. tag + numeric pass code).
13.56MHz systems sometimes sucks quite badly, because manufacturers naively think that nobody will ever hack them. As a result I managed to copy my school's access card with a NFC-enabled smartphone.
@@atmel9077 Yeah the 13.56 has great potential for security. I think the Mifare Desfire cards are already secure enough for most purposes. Lucky for me most places around here still use the easily hackable Mifare Classic 1K cards. :)
There are apps for my Galaxy Note 2 to read RFID cards. Have you tried any of those Julian? The phone app will read my 'smart' bus travel card and even one of my old bank cards.
I’ve been playing with rfid recently due to a project at work. I’ve been looking at 13.56Mhz stuff though. Using the RC522 which is available at just a pound. I think you’ve looked at that module before?
Yeah, a couple of years ago. At the time I couldn't think what to do with it. It's a popular video - I think it's watched to learn how to hack travel cards :)
There are also rfid reader like pn532 that can talk over i2c bus or spi and get the bonus of nfc. BTW the real deal is to have the lights controlled by voice using either Alexa or Google home with the help of HA bridge and an optional home automation controller 😁
For god's sake buy a proper power supply, I can't count the hours you waste fiddling around trying to power things with batteries or solar or whatever. I've got 10p here with your name on it. Useful video though, thanks.
@@trottx Yer i'm glad they stopped him doing that, coz every time the hamster turned around and chased the cat, the reverse polarity made smoke come out of the circuit he was testing !
I know it's petty, but I was brought up on electronic books where the VERY FIRST THING you built was a +5v power supply. It was easy for a noob, just yank a transformer out of something, add a rectifier, capacitor and a 7805 and you were all set. Then it was making something like a TTL led indicator and you had everything you needed to start putting logic circuits together. But no, in every sodding video of him we have to sit through ten minutes of fiddling with dead batteries, solar panels or tweaking an adjustable DC converter. Nobody else does this, unless they are 2 years old and can't be trusted not to stick 5 volts in their ear.
@@JulianIlett Nonono... ;) Buy tradfri, have lights in work area so you can see. Then learn stuff. You don't learn much in the dark! I think zigbee (which tradfri uses) is a whole area of tinkering possibility in itself though... you can get Arduino zigbee modules, I wonder how hard it would be...wait a sec... hackaday.com/2017/06/14/ikea-tradfri-hacking/
It is not actually the frequency that is important in this topic. I wanted to do a project with animal tags and did some research. Apparently, the 125 kHz readers work well enough with the 134 kHz tags because the systems are not as finely tuned as one would imagine. The only problem is the communication protocol, which is different. I ordered a small injectable tag and a standard reader and could get absolutely no reaction. There are major differences in encoding and stuff. Sadly, even the cheapest compatible readers cost several times as much as normal readers and are therfore not as great to tinker with on my low budget scale.
@@lostname605 if its only protocol, then it can be fixed in software, its finding the required format for the data-stream, maybe in the patents for the tags your interested in
That usually mifare type card, you need a different module for arduino. Something like the RC522/PN532 , quite cheap as well! Btw, you can read the contactless bankcards with your phone too.
Julian, your ‘scope is possessed!....🤣 Or maybe it’s the modern equivalent of the intelligent ‘English’ (insert your own language if you are not a native English speaker) speaking cat that knows better than it’s “owner” in various films/TV productions...😂
what the hell??? u tease us with the 16 channel relay board and theres no vid???? does it have the same problems as the 6 channel relay board??? how stupid not have a fooking toggle chip for it.
I think you'll find it's a completely different type of board. 1) No rf board. 2) 16 opto-isolators (the 4 pin jobbies next to the connector arranged in 4 banks of 4). 3) 2 x 18 pin chips, probably ULN2803A's Octal Darlington drivers with common clamp diodes. This is a simple relay board designed to be driven by a processor board of some description rather than a remote controlled board as in the previous video.
"different colored tags will switch different sets of lights" dont do that man, its old fashioned and lame... its easy nowadays to program esp8266 and make an phone app to control the lights... want me to do it for you?
I already managed to read a RFID tag with an electric toothbrush charger and an old AM radio. Basically the electric toorhbrush uses induction charging which means the charger produces an alternating magnetic field like the RFID reader would do. One day I had the idea to put a tag on the reader to see if it woule react and transmit its identifier, so I put the AM radio close to the charger and sure enough I could hear a very loud sound when putting the tag on the charger. I then connected the AM radio to my computer and recorded the signal in Audacity and I decoded the data. It was EM4100 tag.
Heroic!
When Skynet goes live, this man will lead the Resistance.
Oh Lord, I'm clearly not worthy of my new "cheap electronics" hobby.
Actually, given that even the Marxist BBC has realised that the new female Doctor is utter shyte, do you fancy the part?
I like it - very dystopian - very Mad Max :)
02 is Start of text.
03 is End of text.
I have the same reader. As soon as you approach it with a card, the LED gets slightly darker for a short time. This is visible it dark rooms, yet it is very hard. You can put the LED between the LED pin and Vcc. Then you see a small flash when you approach it
I scoped the LED pin - it has a 2% (approx) low-going PWM when the card is being read - weird :)
@@JulianIlett definitely weird, but hooking it up to Vcc instead of ground should be a quick workaround
The coil is bonded by passing a high current thru it for a second or two which melts the insulation slightly while still on the winding former. It was woman's work here in the 80's ( i bet it's kids doing it now in china, the high volume stuff is at a much higher freq and gets printed.)
Wonderful video and use of the oscilloscope - as someone that codes the electronics way to test always makes me rethink how I approach things.
For people talking about cloning a card, the easy security option is to have your 'reader' try to write to the card first with a specific number, then read the card. Your security logs can easily be checked for that number and show the time you need to look at the CCTV.
RDFI is really easy to use in Arduino with a RC522 reader and a MFRC522 library. The most frustrating thing about RDFI are the formats you can read the ID; hexadecimal, decimal, reverse hexadecimal and reverse decimal. We have three systems that use the same card number in FIVE ways, two of the systems on different sites have different ways of reading and storing the same cards! The fith way you ask? decimal but simply replace the first 2 characters of the card with 00, because unique is over rated I guess.
The read/write capable cards can actually be write-locked with a password, there's also write-once burner cards that are used for cloning.
how do uincrease the distance to like rly long distances explain i am new i just want to build one
😆 to steal a car ??
@@Dannydawson537 nah to steal credit card details
Bllack 😆 top man do you know much about the devices that are used to extend the range of a key fob ?
02 is the start text (STX) control character. 03 is the end text (ETX) control character. Good that you finally remembered ASCII mode ;-)
Your knife. In the last video you complained about the blade not snapping cleanly. On the yellow end there is a slot. Use that to break it off. Alternatively, only expose two segments and (at an angle) push the blade against something hard. Mind your eyes as it has a habit of flying off in all directions.
Lost the off one of mine, I just use a pair of pliers. Got a small sharps bin I put old blades in as well.
That relay board is a beauty. Use it for your arduino driven synchonized to music broadcast on an FM station Christmas light show.
No final RFID project after loading data into module can Arduino be removed for module use only?
Just an off the wall idea. Build a RFID reader into the bottom of a bowl, place it near the door to your shop with several tags, one for each lighting scenario, hung on the wall above it. When you enter your shop, drop the appropriate tag into the bowl and hang it back up when you leave.
Extra off the wall idea, use an ESP8266 module instead of an Arduino. Have the ESP module communicate with an MQTT broker and use Node Red to activate your lighting scenario.
Hmm, that's given me an idea. A wheel of fortune where the first tag the reader successfully reads chooses 'light cluster of the day'. I've tried to get interested in the ESP, but I just can't :)
Good video. Can I suggest you get a logic analyser - When you are only interested in 1 & 0 s it's much easier than using a scope. A good USB 8 channel analyser will cost less than £10 and the software is free.
link to £10 unit? please. :-)
What is the voltage on the TX pin ? Will it work directly with an ESP32 or will I need a level shifter ?
did you get the information?
Jonathan I need your help please, please. I've got a 16 way mux connected to a MEGA 2560, the mux lines are for receiving serial input of tag info from multiple RDM6300 modules. I've connected a single module, powered from the MEGA 5v/GND and it reads perfectly from any of the 16 mux lines. However, when I connect a second module, the first one stops working as soon as the 5v/GND are connected. Neither module works. If I disconnect the GND from either module the other one starts working. I've tried using a power bank with the RDM6300s , common ground on power bank and MEGA but same result. I'm freaking out.
If you listen carefully at 13:37, you can hear the rarely heard 'Julian Ilett's Cat'
Mwehh!
it's a vapid UK meerkat-themed insurance advert on tv which says "simples" followed by a meerkat squeak
But they dropped the squeak - why did they drop the squeak?
just dip the fob dongle in paint or add a colored tail ( could have different lengths ), they will hang on a board with hook(s) next to the reader.
if tailed the length could be long enough so you dont need to remove the fob from the hook to reach the reader.
Would like to see more of that 16 relay switching board.
Would love an update to the diesel heater (im sure its on the way), ever since you showed us, i've been hooked on them.
Yep, I've tried sunflower oil - didn't work. Now I want to experiment with dual fuel (diesel and veg oil in separate containers) using the different viscosities to influence the flow rates and therefore the mix ratio. Fun with fuel :)
@@JulianIlett Awesome stuff, someone else suggested that cooking oils are too viscous and if you could implement the exhaust heat to thin the oils, perhaps they would flash easier? Although implementing a dual fuel system to start the burner may work? I'm being ambitious.
Good timing Julian...how do we copy these cards and duplicate it? On tags...
It's too bad the security is absolutely zero with these devices as it's trivial to sniff a tag and copy the contents to a bank tag with the 125KHz systems.
The 13MHz systems are more secure but they're still only good as either very low security keys or as one part of a two factor ID system (i.e. tag + numeric pass code).
13.56MHz systems sometimes sucks quite badly, because manufacturers naively think that nobody will ever hack them. As a result I managed to copy my school's access card with a NFC-enabled smartphone.
@@atmel9077 Yeah the 13.56 has great potential for security. I think the Mifare Desfire cards are already secure enough for most purposes. Lucky for me most places around here still use the easily hackable Mifare Classic 1K cards. :)
There are apps for my Galaxy Note 2 to read RFID cards. Have you tried any of those Julian?
The phone app will read my 'smart' bus travel card and even one of my old bank cards.
what about edit program in that C8051F330 MCU to not only read cards and tags but also write, or reading/writing automotive chips in keys ;-)
I’ve been playing with rfid recently due to a project at work. I’ve been looking at 13.56Mhz stuff though. Using the RC522 which is available at just a pound. I think you’ve looked at that module before?
Yeah, a couple of years ago. At the time I couldn't think what to do with it. It's a popular video - I think it's watched to learn how to hack travel cards :)
Maybe the rx is for changing status of the led
Is there any possibility to increase the distance of this module or a similar one (passive RFID) to 1 meter?
There are long range readers available - not sure about 1 metre though :)
Didn't you order some rfid tags and readers/writers a few years ago? I remember a video on it.
Yeah, I briefly looked at a 13.56MHz system, but I couldn't think of a use for it. That video is still one of my most popular :)
Which model is the scope? I keep wanting to get one and I end up in OPTION PARALYSIS and inevitably get nothing.
It's a Keysight DSOX1102G
Wow, that is a BIG FAT NOPE.. lol.. Way out of my price range.
@@ColinRichardson Get a Rigol; but keep in mind the one in this video already is a cheapie.
Colin Richardson Yeah, I already priced it from seeing the model number in a previous video. It shatters the mold of a "cheap electronics" hobby.
Howdy Julian...could you link the item's page for this particular module?
Oh, yeah, Postbag style :)
Thank you Julian!
No Christmas builds?
Hmm, maybe that Christmas tree - and I can sing along to Christmas favourites throughout the video :)
Do you put the small rubber cap back on the JLCPCB pen? Does it dry out?
I don't - how naughty is that ;)
Can we hook this up to a pi?
There are also rfid reader like pn532 that can talk over i2c bus or spi and get the bonus of nfc. BTW the real deal is to have the lights controlled by voice using either Alexa or Google home with the help of HA bridge and an optional home automation controller 😁
Underrated meerkat noise
For god's sake buy a proper power supply, I can't count the hours you waste fiddling around trying to power things with batteries or solar or whatever. I've got 10p here with your name on it.
Useful video though, thanks.
horse1066 Julian used to use a generator powered by the cat chasing a hamster in a large wheel. But PETA put the kibosh on that.
@@trottx Yer i'm glad they stopped him doing that, coz every time the hamster turned around and chased the cat, the reverse polarity made smoke come out of the circuit he was testing !
I know it's petty, but I was brought up on electronic books where the VERY FIRST THING you built was a +5v power supply. It was easy for a noob, just yank a transformer out of something, add a rectifier, capacitor and a 7805 and you were all set. Then it was making something like a TTL led indicator and you had everything you needed to start putting logic circuits together.
But no, in every sodding video of him we have to sit through ten minutes of fiddling with dead batteries, solar panels or tweaking an adjustable DC converter. Nobody else does this, unless they are 2 years old and can't be trusted not to stick 5 volts in their ear.
If it supplies power and it's on my bench, it's a bench power supply - just sayin'.
Julian Ilett - Righty-ho, I’ll be spending that shiny 10p on alcohol, and then singing the song of my people.
that 31 is wobbling in the most peculiar way. it's messing with my mind
9:43 Sounds like Rachel is having a bad day on Countdown.
It's a cool thing to tinker with but you do realise ikea tradfri kits are £13 on sale right now, yeah? A switch and a bulb... :)
Hmm - buy tradfri, connect tradfri, play with tradfri, learn nothing ;)
@@JulianIlett Nonono... ;)
Buy tradfri, have lights in work area so you can see. Then learn stuff. You don't learn much in the dark!
I think zigbee (which tradfri uses) is a whole area of tinkering possibility in itself though... you can get Arduino zigbee modules, I wonder how hard it would be...wait a sec...
hackaday.com/2017/06/14/ikea-tradfri-hacking/
Playing with the contents of your sack in the morning!!! ;) Dirty, Dirty Man!!!
Seems a very complicated method for switching some lights on when you might as well just have switches. :)
But an interesting video nonetheless.
Useful video 👍
Then you can connect it directly to PC without MCU
Too bad pet chips in Europe run at 134kHz, for which no such cheap modules are available.
I think some car fobs do too...
It is not actually the frequency that is important in this topic. I wanted to do a project with animal tags and did some research. Apparently, the 125 kHz readers work well enough with the 134 kHz tags because the systems are not as finely tuned as one would imagine. The only problem is the communication protocol, which is different. I ordered a small injectable tag and a standard reader and could get absolutely no reaction. There are major differences in encoding and stuff. Sadly, even the cheapest compatible readers cost several times as much as normal readers and are therfore not as great to tinker with on my low budget scale.
@@lostname605 if its only protocol, then it can be fixed in software, its finding the required format for the data-stream, maybe in the patents for the tags your interested in
@@lezbriddon Yes that is true, but the commonly available readers on Aliexpress have a uart output and send out the decoded data, not the raw input.
@@lostname605 oh thats damn annoying, isnt there a way to enable raw output or get it off another pin on the chip etc
ok 18 relay board hmmm
I need to get into RFID now!
You can use your Nexus 4 to read/write these cards.
Try "NFC Tools" (I think that's the app I use).
nogginthenog Great App!!! I love NFC Tools!!!
NFC is 13.56 MHz, this RFID is 125 kHz. AFAIK these cards are read only.
I've written RFID tags with a Nexus 4.
NFC Tools reads my Oyster card on my Pixel (the Nexus is deceased).
That usually mifare type card, you need a different module for arduino. Something like the RC522/PN532 , quite cheap as well! Btw, you can read the contactless bankcards with your phone too.
I found this datasheet. github.com/SeeedDocument/125Khz_RFID_module-UART/raw/master/res/RDM630-Spec.pdf
A switch would be simpler.
@Graham R Dyer LOL
It's not near as fun if he doesn't Rube Goldberg it. How about, clap on, clap off, The Clapper?
Julian, your ‘scope is possessed!....🤣
Or maybe it’s the modern equivalent of the intelligent ‘English’ (insert your own language if you are not a native English speaker) speaking cat that knows better than it’s “owner” in various films/TV productions...😂
it even knows its owners name :-)
what the hell??? u tease us with the 16 channel relay board and theres no vid???? does it have the same problems as the 6 channel relay board??? how stupid not have a fooking toggle chip for it.
I think you'll find it's a completely different type of board.
1) No rf board.
2) 16 opto-isolators (the 4 pin jobbies next to the connector arranged in 4 banks of 4).
3) 2 x 18 pin chips, probably ULN2803A's Octal Darlington drivers with common clamp diodes.
This is a simple relay board designed to be driven by a processor board of some description rather than a remote controlled board as in the previous video.
@@iancrowe8384 ohhh shit, ya right dohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh damn late nights.
Very interesting, thank you!
"different colored tags will switch different sets of lights" dont do that man, its old fashioned and lame... its easy nowadays to program esp8266 and make an phone app to control the lights... want me to do it for you?
I'm old fashioned and lame :)
@@JulianIlett :) me too, and i hate smartphones, but my nephews are enjoying watching me struggle with Android Studio :)
@Julian Ilett LOL. I was a COBOL programmer for 36 years. All this is just great fun.