Here's lenses in order of quality: Achromatic - basic lense that comes on most scopes, sharp only in center Plan Achromatic - now it's sharp all over Plan Fluor (fluorite) - sharp and less rainbow coloring and fringing Plan Apochromatic - perfect lens, super expensive, only for Mr money pants. If lens says immersion lense than it requires a drop of oil, which will give clearer images at high resolution BUT it's annoying to do, images are darker, and you'll use your scope less if you always are messing with the oil and making the lense so close to the slide. I prefer a 10x, 20x, 40x, 60x objectives scope or a 10x, 20x, 40x, 40xPC. If they don't sell a 60x then I'll get a 4x or put a phase contrast objective in the turret. I never use 100x 200x objectives. Lastly infinity vs 160.00 lenses. If price is not much more go infinity if it's a huge difference than don't it's not worth a huge jump in price. Final item.... if your microscope can fit a dark field phase anulas 100% go with that I use dark field 99% of the time and would NEVER go back. They are cheap, around $75 and make things so much more fun and your images way way more beautiful and more 3d looking. Also he said the black lenses are better quality more expensive lenses, well with the China scopes like swift and Amscope the black are regular and silver are Plan and Plan Fluor objectives which are more expensive. Good luck and hope this helps someone!
Thankyou so much for this video. It is exactly what I needed ,and more. I have been considering purchasing a 60x objective to replace my 100x oil immersion, but I was unsure what type to buy that would be compatable with my microscope and did not want to make an expensive mistake, however, you came to my rescue explained everything so clearly that I now feel I make my purchace with confidence. and enhance my microscopy experience with a new objective to observe bacteria and tiny ciliates.
8:55 achromatic lenses are "perfectly corrected" for 2 colors (almost always blue and green, but it will depend a bit on the manufacturer's "recipe", some use yellow and lilac, etc, with slight variations in the chosen wavelengths). That means that only those 2 colors will be perfectly sharp in the focus plane. The 3rd color (almost always red) will be sligthly shifted (because of the differences in wavelength) That is, the spherical aberration will be slightly higher in that uncorrected color. Apochromatics (Apo) achieve perfect focus in 3 colors/wavelength (red, green, blue). And I don't know if they are very common in microscopy, but in certain applications there are "super apo" (SApo) lenses, which have 4 perfectly corrected wavelengths (generally that means that they extend well into the infrared (near IR) or ultraviolet range,(near UV) depending on the system/use. The most common are those that extend towards the IR, because it's way more hard and expensive to manufacture precision lenses in the UV range ( fused silica kingdom))
I have a dust free area where I cure my resin, I know dust is your main concern when taking apart objectives. Proper gloves to avoid fingerprints and proper cloth to avoid streaks on the lenses is also important. So my question is, if someone has all of this and wanted to ADD lenses to an objective and play around with it to see if they can make it stronger, will it work? Taking other cleaned lenses and putting them intobbbbb one objective (the same size meant for the objective.)
21:22 ; Frits Zernike was born in Amsterdam on 16 july 1888 and died in 1966 on 10 march in Amersfoort. That make's him Dutch, not Danish 😉 love your video's btw.
With regards to the cost of phase contrast objectives, I think a factor is due to the need for them to be strain free optical design, since the stress in glass can also cause phase difference and then you are unsure whether what you are seeing comes from the specimen or from the glass of the objective. Most regular objectives have no such requirement and hence are less expensive. Love your topics, very educational, so it is just my $.20…
This is one of the most amazing videos you ever made! So much information, so much questions answered. Thank you! I just got a bit anxious to see you talking in front of your open objectives. I would be afraid of ruining them with saliva droplets :-)
If I had some phase contrast objectives, could I use them with a "regular" condenser with some phase annuli as filters? As you said, the ring sizes must match, but I could make multiple of them and figure it out with trial and error. Or is there something else that's different between a regular condenser and a phase contrast condenser other than the annuli?
Whilst looking for phase contrast objectives, I also found plan-achromatic objectives that use the abbreviation "PL". Make sure to read the description or ask the seller.
If you use a phase telescope, you can align your objectives and your annuli nicely. You might find a used phase condenser to use. I use a Nikon phase condenser with my Zeiss phase objectives. The 10x objective uses the 10x annulus but the 16x objective uses the 40x annulus not the 20. The 40x uses the 40 and 100x the 100.
can we use infinity corrected objective lens and a tube lens in a shorter tube like 100mm length tube.? Should the tube length should be more than standard tubes?
How much of a tolerance is there for, say, a 10x magnification objective? Are they all exactly 10x, or is it possible that the magnification may actually be 10.5x or something to that effect? I am trying to take accurate measurements with my microscope, and I thought I would use proportions of the width of the Field of View to determine the size of an object being observed. I have had great difficulty finding formulas for this purpose.
If you want to make measurements, then you should use a micrometer slide. I once tried to calculate it using the magnifications of the objectives, but the values were off a bit. So direct measurement is always better.
Could you post a video dismantling the internal optics of zoom objectives of a stereo microscope please? Internals inside the tube like housing of the zoom objective?
Hello sir, I have a question is there a diiference between a GM.bositonli 40/0.65 160/0.17/195 A+ and GM.bositonli 100/1.25 160/0.17/195 A+ objectives?
Got my Nikon E400 with several lenses, and original Flurescnce illuminator and several filters for 1500.00 on eBay. I just bought a phase contrast condenser and a nano dyne led light to replace that old school bulb and an extra 10x with larger working distance for an additional 950.00. Total 2450.00 all through eBay. Worth the purchase for the quality and after lubricating gears and cleaning it can easily resell for 5000.00. Especially with sample pictures.
Could you post a video cleaning flux fumes off the internal optics of both zoom objectives of the SZM series of microscopes used in the electronics repair industry please?
Hi Mister @microbehunter, Between Stellar 1-T (cheaper version) and SW380B. Is it worth paying that extra $100 for Stellar (no infinity) one? Thank you,
Thanks for the videos and the information that you provide..i want to buy one for gems..do you have any suggestions....thanks again for your great work
Thank you for the excellent information and sharing your impressive knowledge. If I may request if you can discuss and advise on compatibility between upright Bright field, phase contrast and dark field microscope objectives and can it be exchanged with and between inverted microscopes. Kudos to you, you made my day. Thank you so very much. Aziz USA
Hi sir, I am a added straight razor user and I was advised to buy a invert metallurgical microscope, the one that came up on eBay that i could afford was a LOMO EC METAM PB-21 N950005 i think it was made in Russia, I have a couple of questions that you may help with please, I can not find any user manual or schematics for this microscope think American company made one that looks the same microscope i wonder where to get manual, When using the microscope the objectives either touch the metal blade or run into the metal before it can get good focus, As the objectives are Russian writing on them and the numbers don`t make sense to me i am scratching my head whether they are oil objectives or i am doing something wrong, Here are the objectives nomo 92102 nnAH -Ano F=4.0 0.80 This one is chrome colour, Next one nomo 92681 nnAH F=25 0.17 This one is colour black Next one nomo 93136 nnAH F=16 0.30 This one is colour black Next one nomo 93082 nnAH F=6.3 0.60 This one is colour black I think they are LOMO but russia wording is nomo, And the eye pieces are K10x with a symbol looks like a pair of glasses but with out the side arms that go around the ears So any advice about these objective and why they seem to run into the metal blade before focus ? The reason for buying another microscope is because my other one was not powerful enough to zoom hi magnification to show up micro chips to the cutting part of the blade I own a Bausch & lomb stereo zoom 4,
Achromatic have 2 lenses, Apochromatic have 3, they are usually in contact with eachother, , , Achromatic lenses focus 2 colours that reduce aberration, but do not elliminate it, Apochromatic lenses focus 3 colours and performs much better, , ,
I wish there was a way to tell which cheap objectives were better, or anything about them (which manufacturer made them or even which country they are made in). Sometimes they just take the same objectives and paint them black. Actually I'd be happy if I could tell which microscopes had the short 185 objectives. That information is usually not easily found.
Thank you for the excellent information. I never knew there was so much to these objectives. I have one question though forgive me if you covered it but is it possible or is it even necessary to change the eye pieces? Are there better ones? Would it matter as far as any sort of improvement? New subscriber this is my first video. Thank you again. Much love from Texas. Be Kind Stay Strong Always Question
your microscope probably has 4x, 10x, 40x, 100x objectives. you multiply this with the 10x eyepiece to get 40x, 100x... etc. and when you multiply it with the 20x eyepiece then the maximum magnification is 100x * 10x = 2000x
Greetings! If someone has a microscope Swift Stellar 1 pro-t Infinity and wants to purchase additional objectives 20× and 60×? No problem! I will soon buy myself from Motic. They fit perfectly 20× costs 108 Dollars 60× 168 Dollars this Motic company just produces for Swift stellar 1 pro-t Infinity lenses.
Thank you for the information. When I contacted Swift, they said that they do not have these objectives, but it is good to know that the Motic ones work.
@@MicrobehunterMicroscopy You Welcome! Yes, they work great and almost parfocal! In addition, both the RMC thread and the working distance are correct! If you want, I can give links to which lenses? Many people help me with problems too, why should I pass by? After all, I also bought Swift Stellar 1 pro-t Infinity it for myself, but I didn’t know that it would be such a problem to find these lenses. But now everything has changed!
Oh? So if my microscope uses ISO 160 objectives, they are interchangeable between manufacturers. But infinity objectives are better quality and more expensive, but you are locked into one brand for your microscope and all your objectives. Got it!
Up to a point, some brands correct at the eyepiece, so you really want them as a pair. They will work in other 160 microscopes bu wont perform perfectly if you don't use the right eyepieces.
What is the difference between a Plan Achromatic infinity objective( they have HC PLAN printed on them ) and a Plan Infinity objective With just PLAN printed on it ?
For infinity corrected lenses, theoretically it will focus on infinity so, you have to use a tube lens before eyepiece to get the correct focusing. In case of plan lens you don't need any tube lens, you will find 160 or 180 written on lens, this number represents the tube length in mm and after this distance you can put an eyepiece for the observation.
yes there are microscope objectives for hundreds or thousands of dollars. But the objectives are really not much better than fluotar plan objectives of about 100 bugs. The mentioned big microscop companies make such care objectives because they know that ther are universities and industies who will buy this objectives so sparing their taxes
thats nonsense telling..... if you mix objectives from different Companies or fixed with infinity you must not change all objectives. But you must know how to adjust them individually
Sorry, meanwhile I've seen a couple of videos, but it sounds like listening to a machine gun. Try to speak a little bit slower, if you explain something. Fast speaking doesn't improve your english knowledge.
Here's lenses in order of quality:
Achromatic - basic lense that comes on most scopes, sharp only in center
Plan Achromatic - now it's sharp all over
Plan Fluor (fluorite) - sharp and less rainbow coloring and fringing
Plan Apochromatic - perfect lens, super expensive, only for Mr money pants.
If lens says immersion lense than it requires a drop of oil, which will give clearer images at high resolution BUT it's annoying to do, images are darker, and you'll use your scope less if you always are messing with the oil and making the lense so close to the slide.
I prefer a 10x, 20x, 40x, 60x objectives scope or a 10x, 20x, 40x, 40xPC. If they don't sell a 60x then I'll get a 4x or put a phase contrast objective in the turret. I never use 100x 200x objectives.
Lastly infinity vs 160.00 lenses. If price is not much more go infinity if it's a huge difference than don't it's not worth a huge jump in price.
Final item.... if your microscope can fit a dark field phase anulas 100% go with that I use dark field 99% of the time and would NEVER go back. They are cheap, around $75 and make things so much more fun and your images way way more beautiful and more 3d looking.
Also he said the black lenses are better quality more expensive lenses, well with the China scopes like swift and Amscope the black are regular and silver are Plan and Plan Fluor objectives which are more expensive.
Good luck and hope this helps someone!
Thank you
That does help a lot, especially the infinity bit.
It does, thanks!
Very thanks
Thank you!
Thankyou so much for this video. It is exactly what I needed ,and more. I have been considering purchasing a 60x objective to replace my 100x oil immersion, but I was unsure what type to buy that would be compatable with my microscope and did not want to make an expensive mistake, however, you came to my rescue explained everything so clearly that I now feel I make my purchace with confidence. and enhance my microscopy experience with a new objective to observe bacteria and tiny ciliates.
8:55 achromatic lenses are "perfectly corrected" for 2 colors (almost always blue and green, but it will depend a bit on the manufacturer's "recipe", some use yellow and lilac, etc, with slight variations in the chosen wavelengths). That means that only those 2 colors will be perfectly sharp in the focus plane. The 3rd color (almost always red) will be sligthly shifted (because of the differences in wavelength) That is, the spherical aberration will be slightly higher in that uncorrected color.
Apochromatics (Apo) achieve perfect focus in 3 colors/wavelength (red, green, blue).
And I don't know if they are very common in microscopy, but in certain applications there are "super apo" (SApo) lenses, which have 4 perfectly corrected wavelengths (generally that means that they extend well into the infrared (near IR) or ultraviolet range,(near UV) depending on the system/use. The most common are those that extend towards the IR, because it's way more hard and expensive to manufacture precision lenses in the UV range ( fused silica kingdom))
Thank you very much for this detailed and interesting lesson.
Kind regards . . . Andy in the UK
I have a dust free area where I cure my resin, I know dust is your main concern when taking apart objectives. Proper gloves to avoid fingerprints and proper cloth to avoid streaks on the lenses is also important. So my question is, if someone has all of this and wanted to ADD lenses to an objective and play around with it to see if they can make it stronger, will it work? Taking other cleaned lenses and putting them intobbbbb one objective (the same size meant for the objective.)
Excellent! Very informative; a pleasure to listen to.
I love my 50x and 100x oil plan objectives! One thing I don’t like is if the cover slip lifts from the slide due to attraction to the oil.
As a newbie Always interesting learn something every video thankyou.
I took down so many notes just on this video! Thank you so much!
Thank you very much for helping me choose the objective for my microscope
21:22 ; Frits Zernike was born in Amsterdam on 16 july 1888 and died in 1966 on 10 march in Amersfoort. That make's him Dutch, not Danish 😉 love your video's btw.
Thanks a lot, this is just the information I needed. ❤from Portugal.
With regards to the cost of phase contrast objectives, I think a factor is due to the need for them to be strain free optical design, since the stress in glass can also cause phase difference and then you are unsure whether what you are seeing comes from the specimen or from the glass of the objective. Most regular objectives have no such requirement and hence are less expensive. Love your topics, very educational, so it is just my $.20…
Strain free lens are needed for polarization. Phase only needs a ring .
just want to ask a question if it is possible to replace the objective with a different brand?
This is one of the most amazing videos you ever made! So much information, so much questions answered. Thank you! I just got a bit anxious to see you talking in front of your open objectives. I would be afraid of ruining them with saliva droplets :-)
If I had some phase contrast objectives, could I use them with a "regular" condenser with some phase annuli as filters? As you said, the ring sizes must match, but I could make multiple of them and figure it out with trial and error. Or is there something else that's different between a regular condenser and a phase contrast condenser other than the annuli?
Whilst looking for phase contrast objectives, I also found plan-achromatic objectives that use the abbreviation "PL". Make sure to read the description or ask the seller.
If you use a phase telescope, you can align your objectives and your annuli nicely. You might find a used phase condenser to use. I use a Nikon phase condenser with my Zeiss phase objectives. The 10x objective uses the 10x annulus but the 16x objective uses the 40x annulus not the 20. The 40x uses the 40 and 100x the 100.
The infinity specification opened the door for proprietor predatory marketing!!
The resolution parameter was not explained. Is 0.65 higher or lower resolution than 0.17?
The 0.17 on the objective refers to the cover glass thickness. Otherwise higher values mean higher resolution.
can we use infinity corrected objective lens and a tube lens in a shorter tube like 100mm length tube.? Should the tube length should be more than standard tubes?
Another superb and highly educational video. Thank you Oliver! :)
I really appreciate your videos!
After buying a microscope; I'm only a short time into this amazing world.
Took notes on this. In a few weeks it will fade.
How much of a tolerance is there for, say, a 10x magnification objective? Are they all exactly 10x, or is it possible that the magnification may actually be 10.5x or something to that effect? I am trying to take accurate measurements with my microscope, and I thought I would use proportions of the width of the Field of View to determine the size of an object being observed. I have had great difficulty finding formulas for this purpose.
If you want to make measurements, then you should use a micrometer slide. I once tried to calculate it using the magnifications of the objectives, but the values were off a bit. So direct measurement is always better.
Could you post a video dismantling the internal optics of zoom objectives of a stereo microscope please? Internals inside the tube like housing of the zoom objective?
Hello sir, I have a question is there a diiference between a GM.bositonli 40/0.65 160/0.17/195 A+ and GM.bositonli 100/1.25 160/0.17/195 A+ objectives?
Got my Nikon E400 with several lenses, and original Flurescnce illuminator and several filters for 1500.00 on eBay. I just bought a phase contrast condenser and a nano dyne led light to replace that old school bulb and an extra 10x with larger working distance for an additional 950.00. Total 2450.00 all through eBay. Worth the purchase for the quality and after lubricating gears and cleaning it can easily resell for 5000.00. Especially with sample pictures.
Could you post a video cleaning flux fumes off the internal optics of both zoom objectives of the SZM series of microscopes used in the electronics repair industry please?
Hi Mister @microbehunter,
Between Stellar 1-T (cheaper version) and SW380B.
Is it worth paying that extra $100 for Stellar (no infinity) one?
Thank you,
Always go for a microscope with infinity corrected lenses. It will be costly but worth buying. ( Must validate the objective quality before buying)
Very informative and interesting. I will bookmark this video for future reference. Thank you.
well explained thanks
Thanks for the videos and the information that you provide..i want to buy one for gems..do you have any suggestions....thanks again for your great work
Thank you for the excellent information and sharing your impressive knowledge. If I may request if you can discuss and advise on compatibility between upright Bright field, phase contrast and dark field microscope objectives and can it be exchanged with and between inverted microscopes. Kudos to you, you made my day. Thank you so very much. Aziz USA
Hi sir,
I am a added straight razor user and I was advised to buy a invert metallurgical microscope, the one that came up on eBay that i could afford was a LOMO EC METAM PB-21 N950005 i think it was made in Russia,
I have a couple of questions that you may help with please,
I can not find any user manual or schematics for this microscope think American company made one that looks the same microscope i wonder where to get manual,
When using the microscope the objectives either touch the metal blade or run into the metal before it can get good focus,
As the objectives are Russian writing on them and the numbers don`t make sense to me i am scratching my head whether they are oil objectives or i am doing something wrong,
Here are the objectives nomo 92102 nnAH -Ano F=4.0 0.80 This one is chrome colour,
Next one nomo 92681 nnAH F=25 0.17 This one is colour black
Next one nomo 93136 nnAH F=16 0.30 This one is colour black
Next one nomo 93082 nnAH F=6.3 0.60 This one is colour black
I think they are LOMO but russia wording is nomo,
And the eye pieces are K10x with a symbol looks like a pair of glasses but with out the side arms that go around the ears
So any advice about these objective and why they seem to run into the metal blade before focus ?
The reason for buying another microscope is because my other one was not powerful enough to zoom hi magnification to show up micro chips to the cutting part of the blade I own a Bausch & lomb stereo zoom 4,
infinities are not much care than fixed but they are much better
Achromatic have 2 lenses, Apochromatic have 3, they are usually in contact with eachother, , , Achromatic lenses focus 2 colours that reduce aberration, but do not elliminate it, Apochromatic lenses focus 3 colours and performs much better, , ,
I wish there was a way to tell which cheap objectives were better, or anything about them (which manufacturer made them or even which country they are made in). Sometimes they just take the same objectives and paint them black. Actually I'd be happy if I could tell which microscopes had the short 185 objectives. That information is usually not easily found.
e plan - what means ?
Thank you for the excellent information. I never knew there was so much to these objectives. I have one question though forgive me if you covered it but is it possible or is it even necessary to change the eye pieces? Are there better ones? Would it matter as far as any sort of improvement? New subscriber this is my first video. Thank you again. Much love from Texas. Be Kind Stay Strong Always Question
greate video thanks
I’m confused please help does 40x magnification mean 2000x because I have a omax 40/2000x please help I’m very confused
your microscope probably has 4x, 10x, 40x, 100x objectives. you multiply this with the 10x eyepiece to get 40x, 100x... etc. and when you multiply it with the 20x eyepiece then the maximum magnification is 100x * 10x = 2000x
@@MicrobehunterMicroscopy thank you man I figured it out 👍👍👍 new subscriber
Greetings! If someone has a microscope Swift Stellar 1 pro-t Infinity and wants to purchase additional objectives 20× and 60×? No problem! I will soon buy myself from Motic. They fit perfectly 20× costs 108 Dollars 60× 168 Dollars this Motic company just produces for Swift stellar 1 pro-t Infinity lenses.
Thank you for the information. When I contacted Swift, they said that they do not have these objectives, but it is good to know that the Motic ones work.
@@MicrobehunterMicroscopy You Welcome!
Yes, they work great and almost parfocal! In addition, both the RMC thread and the working distance are correct! If you want, I can give links to which lenses? Many people help me with problems too, why should I pass by? After all, I also bought Swift Stellar 1 pro-t Infinity it for myself, but I didn’t know that it would be such a problem to find these lenses. But now everything has changed!
Oh?
So if my microscope uses ISO 160 objectives, they are interchangeable between manufacturers.
But infinity objectives are better quality and more expensive, but you are locked into one brand for your microscope and all your objectives.
Got it!
Up to a point, some brands correct at the eyepiece, so you really want them as a pair. They will work in other 160 microscopes bu wont perform perfectly if you don't use the right eyepieces.
What is the difference between a Plan Achromatic infinity objective( they have HC PLAN printed on them ) and a Plan Infinity objective With just PLAN printed on it ?
For infinity corrected lenses, theoretically it will focus on infinity so, you have to use a tube lens before eyepiece to get the correct focusing. In case of plan lens you don't need any tube lens, you will find 160 or 180 written on lens, this number represents the tube length in mm and after this distance you can put an eyepiece for the observation.
Probably not much
It is an achromat unless it says APO or Fluor.
I have 3 different microscopes 🔬 🔬 🔬that I need help with
Put them together for to make one good one. 😄
I have
Lol
About to send my good one to get fixed
160 mm = 16cm i understand now...I thinck the number 160 represent the diameter of the objective
No, it is the mechanical tube length. Distance from objective to eyepiece.
yes there are microscope objectives for hundreds or thousands of dollars. But the objectives are really not much better than fluotar plan objectives of about 100 bugs. The mentioned big microscop companies make such care objectives because they know that ther are universities and industies who will buy this objectives so sparing their taxes
thats nonsense telling..... if you mix objectives from different Companies or fixed with infinity you must not change all objectives. But you must know how to adjust them individually
Sorry, meanwhile I've seen a couple of videos, but it sounds like listening to a machine gun. Try to speak a little bit slower, if you explain something. Fast speaking doesn't improve your english knowledge.
no plan-apo, no fluar, no neofluar, no fluotar.....all shown objectives are bad.. without a good objectiv every microscope is bad
So, if someone has a introductory microscope (ZIEL ZB-250) and wants to change an objective, how can it be done? 🥲