Love your channel and impressed by your crew. However to put in my 2 cent's worth, I would never recommend Nudura to anyone. I've only installed less than 20 ICF foundations, but due to lack of availability of other, better blocks, I was forced to use Nudura. Four basic complaints are 1:.The Nudura blocks are 18" tall. Commonly we use 48" crawlspace walls to meet frost level requirements here in northern Colorado. Naturally, 18" does not divide well into 48" hence three courses of block will give you 54" requiring that you cut the upper course or you can order 1/2 blocks for the top course but frequently these are unavailable. 2: The top course of the blocks have the interlocking system that need to be cut off after forming unless you wish for a really crappy finish after pouring. 3: In cold weather, if you have to place 5/8" rebar under the lower most web on your lateral runs, you will fight it every inch of the way. The plastic retainers do not open wide enough to accept the 5/8" bar without a major battle. 4: Usually the Nudura is quite a bit more expensive as they are imported from Canada and with the ongoing tariffs between the U.S. and Canada, the cost difference compared to U.S. made ICF's can be a deal breaker. All in all I hope to never use the Nudura again. I have however had much greater success and my crew would much rather work with the Fox blocks, Build Blocks, Reward Wall Systems, or Logix.
Amvic makes a real R-22 & (R30) fully assembled and 24" x 48" x 16" corners that don't require additional bracing , more dense foam and webs every 6" for good finishes attachment, no steel stiffner either. So save time and money if you want . A grinder works well on the hinges and form lock.... you don't need to cut those with other ICF brands
I was wondering why that floor was so speckly... then when I saw the close up I see that might be the powder the owner asked you to spread around? Forgot what it was for.
Hi there. You could do what I did and google your question to find interesting answers and suggestions. In the meantime, ICF foundationi means a dryer basement, no moisture transfer compared to a poured foundation where the cement is so porous and transfers moisture in and out of the basement pending on the wet or dryness of the dirt around it. If you also look at Bondo's work with the wings using rigid foam, placing wings 16 inches under ground with a 4 degree slope away from the wall with also help with water drainage as well as capture the heat from the earth, geothermal affect. By keeping the ground around the foundation dry, you have a dry basement and more comfortable in temperatures. So more a living space in the basement if you like. Happy googling for your answer as well. 👍🇨🇦
Fantastic!💯 Thank you so much for all the time you are taking to help us learn! I have subscribed to your channel. Slowly your subscription numbers are increasing. So happy for you! Atlantic Canada gal here planning an extension onto a basement and stick build close enough to this one you worked on. I cannot tell you how helpful you have been. Explaining why rebar lengths and location within the blocks and so much more. You are very kind to help us understand. You have probably heard this before from your audience, wishing you lived closer to where we live so the peace of mind to hire you would be amazing! You pay attention to detail and keep the science of ICF foundation work true and applicable. Very grateful, booked marked all vids related to this project so to keep reviewing them to not miss anything you are teaching. Sincerely, Meg, PEI, Atlantic Canada🙏🇨🇦
@@bondobuilt386 Absolutely my pleasure to show you my support. Look forward to all your frost foundation work, especially ICF extension to a stick build with full basement.💯👍🙏🇨🇦
@@bondobuilt386 Hey there! We also have frost 4 feet down. The wings, slanted at 4 degrees, is to use the geothermal concept. I like your 4 feet out from the basement wall application instead of 2 feet. The longer wings of 4 feet, angled at 4 degrees for water to slope away from the basement, act as a trapped area for the heat coming from the ground. This helps with keeping a warmer basement, with a dry dirt all around the basement ICF foundation. The diagram shows to put the wings about 16 inches below the surface of the ground. Of course you have flashing under the siding and rigid foam along the upper section of the basement foundation which is above the wings. Without frost around the basement foundation, you have dry dirt which means the basement will not have any moisture transfer. Of course, I am planning an ICF extension so it is super insulated with no water transfer. But, while they are here digging with the escavator, I thought to tackle the rest of the home foundation, NOT ICF, and place the wings down over the drainage system that is 8 feet down or more, to get that extra dry ground due to the heat from the earth, geothermal stuff. Make sense???👍😊🇨🇦
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs For the geothermal I think it makes sense but I have never done that but sounds interesting and any extra insulation is always going to be better IMO. 😊
Your description’s are very easy for me to understand. Im a little intimidated to take this project in by myself, at and health. But 20 years ago, I would be sharpening my pencils and making ordering lists. I have a 120 year old “American Four square” in a nice location, that I bought when I retired 2 years ago. It’s sitting on a crawl space with 3’ posts, and a skirt wall, that are as old as the house. I’d really like to do this house Justice, so that it remains a nice house for another 120 years. I was sure that I was going to use foam block as It started to be more widely used, and the contractors around this area are familiar with working with it. I’m in the northern zone Canada, and frost is a real enemy. Biggest issue at this time is deciding between, moving the house off the existing foundation and building a new foundation or,, lifting the house and building the foundation. The cost of moving the house adds 25k. I would prefer to lift the house, and it’s not simply the 25k.
Bondo, your da Man, Big Biscuit and Tuna boat are gonna know how to lay these projects out going forward. The rest is shoulders down! Thanks for your time.
huge help and safety to have that floor poured first and have place to secure brackets for straight wall, i wish you would have those videos 3 years ago...
Have you seen Helix micro rebar? Would you use it in your pours, why or why not? It is supposed to be compatible with ICF and would replace rebar in walls. You would still need rebar at your cold joints and around Windows and doors. You could also use it in the floor that you poured in the last video and you wouldn't have to use the mesh or try to pull it up into the concrete.
Ron: I keep watching 'em. You keep making 'em. You mentioned that you might switch to another brand because of their price. These have quite a few good features, such as the clips, a common L/R corner, etc. So I have three questions. 1. This 26x30x8 FT, 3-wall project. What was the ~$cost in Nudura materials? 2. Are there features of Nudura that may save you labor over using other brands? 3. At what percent price increase in Nudura would you immediately switch, and to what brand might that be? Thanks; Will
The blocks are longer so that saves labor. I'm not sure price because it keeps changing. The bottom line is I have to sell this to the customer and be competitive with other wall systems and it is getting hard with the cost of Nudura so I may try Fox or Logix if I can get a job I would have lost with Nudura.
Love your channel and impressed by your crew. However to put in my 2 cent's worth, I would never recommend Nudura to anyone. I've only installed less than 20 ICF foundations, but due to lack of availability of other, better blocks, I was forced to use Nudura. Four basic complaints are 1:.The Nudura blocks are 18" tall. Commonly we use 48" crawlspace walls to meet frost level requirements here in northern Colorado. Naturally, 18" does not divide well into 48" hence three courses of block will give you 54" requiring that you cut the upper course or you can order 1/2 blocks for the top course but frequently these are unavailable. 2: The top course of the blocks have the interlocking system that need to be cut off after forming unless you wish for a really crappy finish after pouring. 3: In cold weather, if you have to place 5/8" rebar under the lower most web on your lateral runs, you will fight it every inch of the way. The plastic retainers do not open wide enough to accept the 5/8" bar without a major battle. 4: Usually the Nudura is quite a bit more expensive as they are imported from Canada and with the ongoing tariffs between the U.S. and Canada, the cost difference compared to U.S. made ICF's can be a deal breaker. All in all I hope to never use the Nudura again. I have however had much greater success and my crew would much rather work with the Fox blocks, Build Blocks, Reward Wall Systems, or Logix.
Amvic makes a real R-22 & (R30) fully assembled and 24" x 48" x 16" corners that don't require additional bracing , more dense foam and webs every 6" for good finishes attachment, no steel stiffner either. So save time and money if you want . A grinder works well on the hinges and form lock.... you don't need to cut those with other ICF brands
If you are sheetrocking the inside, do they sell some with stripping installed in them? Or do you have to frame a wall?
There are plastic studs built into the blocks.
I was wondering why that floor was so speckly... then when I saw the close up I see that might be the powder the owner asked you to spread around? Forgot what it was for.
That was a curing compound to slow the drying down.
I would use this system just to keep from having to strip the forms .
You need to invest in a cordless grinder and a bolt cutter
Good idea 👍👊
Thanks for hooking us up with this content I've been waiting to learn this stuff, I'm in Madison WI have a lot and going to build eventually
No problem I'm glad it is helpful for you 👍😊
Love your videos Bondo. Quick question what are some factors a homeowner should use to decide an ICF or formed foundation.
Thanks
Hi there. You could do what I did and google your question to find interesting answers and suggestions. In the meantime, ICF foundationi means a dryer basement, no moisture transfer compared to a poured foundation where the cement is so porous and transfers moisture in and out of the basement pending on the wet or dryness of the dirt around it.
If you also look at Bondo's work with the wings using rigid foam, placing wings 16 inches under ground with a 4 degree slope away from the wall with also help with water drainage as well as capture the heat from the earth, geothermal affect.
By keeping the ground around the foundation dry, you have a dry basement and more comfortable in temperatures. So more a living space in the basement if you like.
Happy googling for your answer as well. 👍🇨🇦
A lot of making sense there. Nice
Fantastic!💯 Thank you so much for all the time you are taking to help us learn! I have subscribed to your channel. Slowly your subscription numbers are increasing. So happy for you! Atlantic Canada gal here planning an extension onto a basement and stick build close enough to this one you worked on. I cannot tell you how helpful you have been. Explaining why rebar lengths and location within the blocks and so much more. You are very kind to help us understand. You have probably heard this before from your audience, wishing you lived closer to where we live so the peace of mind to hire you would be amazing! You pay attention to detail and keep the science of ICF foundation work true and applicable. Very grateful, booked marked all vids related to this project so to keep reviewing them to not miss anything you are teaching. Sincerely, Meg, PEI, Atlantic Canada🙏🇨🇦
Thanks Meg. So glad you are enjoying these videos and they are helping you learn. Thanks for the kind words.
@@bondobuilt386 Absolutely my pleasure to show you my support. Look forward to all your frost foundation work, especially ICF extension to a stick build with full basement.💯👍🙏🇨🇦
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs If you are doing a full basement you would not need the frost protection because it will have all the dirt around it.
@@bondobuilt386 Hey there! We also have frost 4 feet down. The wings, slanted at 4 degrees, is to use the geothermal concept. I like your 4 feet out from the basement wall application instead of 2 feet. The longer wings of 4 feet, angled at 4 degrees for water to slope away from the basement, act as a trapped area for the heat coming from the ground. This helps with keeping a warmer basement, with a dry dirt all around the basement ICF foundation. The diagram shows to put the wings about 16 inches below the surface of the ground. Of course you have flashing under the siding and rigid foam along the upper section of the basement foundation which is above the wings. Without frost around the basement foundation, you have dry dirt which means the basement will not have any moisture transfer. Of course, I am planning an ICF extension so it is super insulated with no water transfer. But, while they are here digging with the escavator, I thought to tackle the rest of the home foundation, NOT ICF, and place the wings down over the drainage system that is 8 feet down or more,
to get that extra dry ground due to the heat from the earth, geothermal stuff. Make sense???👍😊🇨🇦
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs For the geothermal I think it makes sense but I have never done that but sounds interesting and any extra insulation is always going to be better IMO. 😊
Hello, 👋 what state are you guys in?
Beautiful work to see and learn from thumbs up and thank you for the video. :)
Thanks Richard 😊👍
Your description’s are very easy for me to understand. Im a little intimidated to take this project in by myself, at and health. But 20 years ago, I would be sharpening my pencils and making ordering lists.
I have a 120 year old “American Four square” in a nice location, that I bought when I retired 2 years ago. It’s sitting on a crawl space with 3’ posts, and a skirt wall, that are as old as the house. I’d really like to do this house Justice, so that it remains a nice house for another 120 years. I was sure that I was going to use foam block as It started to be more widely used, and the contractors around this area are familiar with working with it. I’m in the northern zone Canada, and frost is a real enemy.
Biggest issue at this time is deciding between, moving the house off the existing foundation and building a new foundation or,, lifting the house and building the foundation. The cost of moving the house adds 25k. I would prefer to lift the house, and it’s not simply the 25k.
Great videos. Thanks
Great job
Thanks😊
......BIG. ....HUGE....MISTIKE....!!!@
NO CONNECTION BETWEENT TWO WALL...!!!
NO BOUNDY...!!
THAT'S GOING TO FLOOD INSIDE THE ROOM....!!!!
This basement is bone dry we did it a few years ago.
Lobe your videos! Besides nudura what other icf blocks do you like?
I like Logix but I heard Fox is good also. 👍
Bondo, your da Man, Big Biscuit and Tuna boat are gonna know how to lay these projects out going forward. The rest is shoulders down! Thanks for your time.
Looking good
Thanks Robert.
👀Bondo you seem like a great buddy, do you sometimes let the dolls dance too? 😀😎👍
Lol not sure what that means? 😊
huge help and safety to have that floor poured first and have place to secure brackets for straight wall, i wish you would have those videos 3 years ago...
Have you seen Helix micro rebar? Would you use it in your pours, why or why not? It is supposed to be compatible with ICF and would replace rebar in walls. You would still need rebar at your cold joints and around Windows and doors. You could also use it in the floor that you poured in the last video and you wouldn't have to use the mesh or try to pull it up into the concrete.
OSHA approves of your lack of safety glasses at 4:30
RUclips safety monitor. Thanks for that.
@4:30. Love the safety glasses. Excellent example of adjusting the walls. Thanks.
subbed after quite a few videos. All the best from Wales in the UK
Do you ever use fiberglass rebar ? Nice job as always !
No I have never used that
Saw the truck squat down 2” when big Rob leaned on it .
Where about in upstate are you guys from?
Mexico New York
Ahhh....about 3 hrs from me....I'm down in Sullivan County
Ron:
I keep watching 'em. You keep making 'em.
You mentioned that you might switch to another brand because of their price. These have quite a few good features, such as the clips, a common L/R corner, etc. So I have three questions.
1. This 26x30x8 FT, 3-wall project. What was the ~$cost in Nudura materials?
2. Are there features of Nudura that may save you labor over using other brands?
3. At what percent price increase in Nudura would you immediately switch, and to what brand might that be?
Thanks;
Will
Yes, the Nudura are more expensive. I've been looking at Stronghold blocks, a little cheaper but don't fold flat.
The blocks are longer so that saves labor. I'm not sure price because it keeps changing. The bottom line is I have to sell this to the customer and be competitive with other wall systems and it is getting hard with the cost of Nudura so I may try Fox or Logix if I can get a job I would have lost with Nudura.
Nice job guys
Great job
Thanks Brent