My addition to Robs great list would be... #6 (after the bonus), plan your entire system BEFORE you start your install. Everything from sound dampening material to wire ties to tools required needs to be on a sheet(s) of paper as your work guide. It'll save you time, money and aggravation.
One thing to add. I JUST did a nice install for a friend's wife(finished tonight), and I bought and used hydraulic crimper, to cold weld the lugs to the power runs..... Man, never will I solder or hammer crimp again. Well worth the $50 for the 16 ton units. I got mine off eBay, blue in color. Works perfect, and makes beautiful crimps. I'll never terminate another cable the old fashioned way again. Super secure, they look professional, and it's so much easier than a hammer crimp or solder. It's actually a lower resistance connection than soldering, believe it or not. I'll post a video of the completed build. Clean install with a very tidy equipment rack. Northstar group 31 upgrade, Alpine door speakers front and rear, skar subs, stetsom amplifiers, lc2i and some serious over cabling. Turned out super nice. One more thing I would add is get a o scope,, a cheap one even, make sure your signals are clean. Helps to get a proper setup so your you or your customer doesn't come back with blown tweets or other drivers! I also bought a set of the Kline cable cutters, per your recommendation. I like quality. Pay once, cry once. It's cheaper that way. Usually. I'll get to use them Wednesday on another install. Thanks for saving me $ brochacho!
Good stuff! I am a technician and these tips will definitely help. Just knowing Ohms law and understanding electrical theory will help a ton when setting up & troubleshooting a system. Oh and like he said, bigger is not always better. This applies to power wiring as well! Putting huge 0 gauge wire on an amp that only needs 8 gauge quality fine strand wire is not going to help the performance. And costs way more money. Think about how you want your system to sound, what it is going to be used for and what you want your car audio finished system to be. And what your budget is first before buying anything. The car audio industry is very good at separating people from their money. So if you have a plan and some knowledge it helps. Great video!
The only thing I could add is to say that proper fusing/protection should always be the first thing done or installed- I set a car on fire through lack of fusing in my early stoopid days!
Great list, My electronic teacher always said, the day you stop reading and learning is the day you let yourself down. Read, watch videos on the subject that interest you. If you can find one the MECP book is a great resource
Bonus: if you're using 2 amps on 1 sub, or using 2 channels on 1 sub, or if your using a 4ch bridged on 1 sub, you really need to check the phase of each coil. For example, I use a 4ch on my HCCA-12". If I just bridged it and ran 1 could per bridged channel, turned the phase all the way down on both, the phase would be off. Use a 2 channel oscilloscope to verify the phase alignment is perfect between the 2 channels. If the amp only has phase adjustment for 1 channel and not the other (like my HCCA3000.4H), and the phase leads on 1 channel buy a small amount but the phase knob can only make it worse, then try using the RCA output in the amp to the input of the leading phase channel. The wire length will slow response on that channel allowing the slow phase to catch up. The issue is timing, 1 is playing the note faster than the other, you need to slow the faster one down so the 2 can be in sync
A tip to help those on a budget achieve quality car audio components: Go with a "lower brand" marine audio components, instead of "car" audio. Even the not so name brands out there make very good marine components so as to get the necessary rating. Marine audio is usually a couple notches better quality parts and build compared to similar car audio components in price. If you have a disaster and say a fire with your car stereo for some reason it isn't the same as in a boat where it may put your life at a much greater risk. Or leave you stranded in the middle of a large lake or ocean. Companies know this, so will build their marine audio components with this in mind.
What i see more often then not is people just not doing there research. Everyone new coming into the Car Audio industry needs to do their own research on what they are trying to accomplish with their own setup. Better yet just do research in general to have a better understanding of all the different factors that go into what an entire car audio setup requires in order to get the best outcome.
Keeping it Rob, great job my friend. Btw, the Samson mic sounded a bit richer than the Shure but also very clear. I like seeing lower cost gear used and a great result still come from it.
I have mentioned this before but you should travel around and highlight/review others systems. I would of course focus on install and sound quality and less on equipment. I have offered up my 2001 BMW for you to audition. I did the entire install myself and I dare to say it would blow your mind. When a system is truly dialed in their will be four dominant things which are: 3 dimensional sound stage, laser focused center imaging, instrument separation/localization, and zero noise floor. It will sound very similar to the highest end headphones you can buy. It’s an intimate listing experience. Come check it out. Im in Indianapolis.
And can't emphasize enough: Don't go cheap on your Wire using the CCA stuff. (Except maybe for speaker wire connections 8 feet and less). Otherwise, it's OFC copper (Marine Grade?) primarily for less heat, less voltage drop= better sound quality. Your amps don't have to work as hard. less chance for stuff melting and catching fire. :) lol
You NEED to know, that on your bridgeable amp, if you use it in stereo, your left channel is going to use positive for the positive output but the right might use + too, like my Schneider amps. When in stereo mode, if you don't use channel that is negative for BTL as the negative for the the right speaker in stereo mode, you will be out of phase. In other words, the negative for channel B in Bridge mode, is actually the positive in stereo mode. I see a lot of 4 channels etc with the BTL negative as the far right terminal aka the channel B negative. In stereo it would be out of phase.
Whats goin on Veg! Just subscribed, have seen a few videos some time ago amongst many others vids, perfectly said in the end. It is a continual learning path especially with the advancements in technology today. I am about to do something, but I can't outright say what all it involves, but if there is a time you could chat on a different platform I am open to suggestions, conversation and feedback. A few serious questions regarding, and some basic audio things. If so, lemme know how I can reach you for some chit chat per say! All Respect!!!
Kinda funny I literally was just talking to a guy in little rock about some of this especially full bridge amps cheaper versus a quality of maybe less power.
Great job ..I'm that guy that makes CHEAP WORK I LIKE TO COMPEAT FROM TIME TO TIME SO I ALLWAYS use a big alt and have good elactricall good coper good rca
Don’t get discouraged when the haters come out saying your not this or that because you’re not running said products! Great video solid
💯
My addition to Robs great list would be...
#6 (after the bonus), plan your entire system BEFORE you start your install. Everything from sound dampening material to wire ties to tools required needs to be on a sheet(s) of paper as your work guide. It'll save you time, money and aggravation.
Love this tip!
Yessir this is for sure a great tip.
#0.1 Don’t Be A Big Dummy!
Great video.
Haha the best tip!
Solid list! Thanks for the shout out to a big dummy and for suggesting people educate themselves 😊
Thanks for the help with da list yo!
Another great vid.. Great job hifi, love this channel and the 12v talk channel, also williston channel is AMAZING....
Thanks!
One thing to add. I JUST did a nice install for a friend's wife(finished tonight), and I bought and used hydraulic crimper, to cold weld the lugs to the power runs..... Man, never will I solder or hammer crimp again. Well worth the $50 for the 16 ton units. I got mine off eBay, blue in color. Works perfect, and makes beautiful crimps.
I'll never terminate another cable the old fashioned way again. Super secure, they look professional, and it's so much easier than a hammer crimp or solder. It's actually a lower resistance connection than soldering, believe it or not. I'll post a video of the completed build. Clean install with a very tidy equipment rack. Northstar group 31 upgrade, Alpine door speakers front and rear, skar subs, stetsom amplifiers, lc2i and some serious over cabling. Turned out super nice.
One more thing I would add is get a o scope,, a cheap one even, make sure your signals are clean. Helps to get a proper setup so your you or your customer doesn't come back with blown tweets or other drivers!
I also bought a set of the Kline cable cutters, per your recommendation. I like quality. Pay once, cry once. It's cheaper that way. Usually. I'll get to use them Wednesday on another install. Thanks for saving me $ brochacho!
100% agree on the hydraulic crimpers
Good stuff! I am a technician and these tips will definitely help. Just knowing Ohms law and understanding electrical theory will help a ton when setting up & troubleshooting a system. Oh and like he said, bigger is not always better. This applies to power wiring as well! Putting huge 0 gauge wire on an amp that only needs 8 gauge quality fine strand wire is not going to help the performance. And costs way more money. Think about how you want your system to sound, what it is going to be used for and what you want your car audio finished system to be. And what your budget is first before buying anything. The car audio industry is very good at separating people from their money. So if you have a plan and some knowledge it helps. Great video!
Thanks!
Great breakdown man ! Definitely covered the important stuff 💪🏼
Thanks man!
Sharing the knowledge....love it.
Can’t stop won’t stop
I like your channel brother... Been watching for a few days.. That S10 was awesome.....
Thanks man. We gotta get together sometime it’s been too long
Real OG's
You are!
The only thing I could add is to say that proper fusing/protection should always be the first thing done or installed- I set a car on fire through lack of fusing in my early stoopid days!
🙌🏼🙌🏼 #teamfuse
Great list, My electronic teacher always said, the day you stop reading and learning is the day you let yourself down. Read, watch videos on the subject that interest you. If you can find one the MECP book is a great resource
I think I have one laying around here somewhere
Bonus: if you're using 2 amps on 1 sub, or using 2 channels on 1 sub, or if your using a 4ch bridged on 1 sub, you really need to check the phase of each coil. For example, I use a 4ch on my HCCA-12". If I just bridged it and ran 1 could per bridged channel, turned the phase all the way down on both, the phase would be off. Use a 2 channel oscilloscope to verify the phase alignment is perfect between the 2 channels.
If the amp only has phase adjustment for 1 channel and not the other (like my HCCA3000.4H), and the phase leads on 1 channel buy a small amount but the phase knob can only make it worse, then try using the RCA output in the amp to the input of the leading phase channel. The wire length will slow response on that channel allowing the slow phase to catch up. The issue is timing, 1 is playing the note faster than the other, you need to slow the faster one down so the 2 can be in sync
Good comment. Here is a vid that explains it similarly.
ruclips.net/video/koCqdDXTb3s/видео.html
A tip to help those on a budget achieve quality car audio components: Go with a "lower brand" marine audio components, instead of "car" audio. Even the not so name brands out there make very good marine components so as to get the necessary rating. Marine audio is usually a couple notches better quality parts and build compared to similar car audio components in price. If you have a disaster and say a fire with your car stereo for some reason it isn't the same as in a boat where it may put your life at a much greater risk. Or leave you stranded in the middle of a large lake or ocean. Companies know this, so will build their marine audio components with this in mind.
What i see more often then not is people just not doing there research. Everyone new coming into the Car Audio industry needs to do their own research on what they are trying to accomplish with their own setup. Better yet just do research in general to have a better understanding of all the different factors that go into what an entire car audio setup requires in order to get the best outcome.
Great advice
Love your channel. Always informative. Thank you
Thanks for watching
The bonus is the best!!! Excepting that will only allow you to get better every day!!
Exactly!
Keeping it Rob, great job my friend. Btw, the Samson mic sounded a bit richer than the Shure but also very clear. I like seeing lower cost gear used and a great result still come from it.
Thanks man! This little Samson mic is great
The ABC's of car audio are: A- as in rcas or amplitude: get your signal strong B- box C- current: get your electrical proper D- dampening
Giving us some great content her man. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Great video thanks for the knowledge
I have mentioned this before but you should travel around and highlight/review others systems. I would of course focus on install and sound quality and less on equipment. I have offered up my 2001 BMW for you to audition. I did the entire install myself and I dare to say it would blow your mind. When a system is truly dialed in their will be four dominant things which are: 3 dimensional sound stage, laser focused center imaging, instrument separation/localization, and zero noise floor. It will sound very similar to the highest end headphones you can buy. It’s an intimate listing experience. Come check it out. Im in Indianapolis.
Tell em' Vega!
And can't emphasize enough: Don't go cheap on your Wire using the CCA stuff. (Except maybe for speaker wire connections 8 feet and less). Otherwise, it's OFC copper (Marine Grade?) primarily for less heat, less voltage drop= better sound quality. Your amps don't have to work as hard. less chance for stuff melting and catching fire. :) lol
You NEED to know, that on your bridgeable amp, if you use it in stereo, your left channel is going to use positive for the positive output but the right might use + too, like my Schneider amps. When in stereo mode, if you don't use channel that is negative for BTL as the negative for the the right speaker in stereo mode, you will be out of phase.
In other words, the negative for channel B in Bridge mode, is actually the positive in stereo mode. I see a lot of 4 channels etc with the BTL negative as the far right terminal aka the channel B negative. In stereo it would be out of phase.
Very helpful video bro thanks 👍
Thanks for watching man!
Totally agree!!!
Whats goin on Veg! Just subscribed, have seen a few videos some time ago amongst many others vids, perfectly said in the end. It is a continual learning path especially with the advancements in technology today. I am about to do something, but I can't outright say what all it involves, but if there is a time you could chat on a different platform I am open to suggestions, conversation and feedback. A few serious questions regarding, and some basic audio things. If so, lemme know how I can reach you for some chit chat per say! All Respect!!!
Good list👍OGs till the end😎
Yessir!
good video, your bonus tip could have been no1 ... i like how you give credit\links to others videos too
Yeah it could have been number 1. I’m as big a viewer of these other channels so it’s my pleasure to link them
Great video should save newbies some time and money
Thanks homie
Thanks man
Good video! When 12v talk coming back? I miss it.
It’s on break for a while dunno when it’ll be back
Great Video !!
Thanks Tony!
Good video
Vey good points for noobs. Hope all is well Vega!
Likewise! I’m doing great
Good damn video bro…..VERY useful info
Thanks
@@HifiVega very welcome
How to set your frequency’s and gain on a amplifier and also type of subwoofer box.
Kinda funny I literally was just talking to a guy in little rock about some of this especially full bridge amps cheaper versus a quality of maybe less power.
My thing is just run 2 power cables and never have “noise” problems, headunit should have a solid ground from the factory already.
Great job ..I'm that guy that makes CHEAP WORK I LIKE TO COMPEAT FROM TIME TO TIME SO I ALLWAYS use a big alt and have good elactricall good coper good rca
If you know what you’re doing you can make almost miracles happen!
Best tip, dont let the magic smoke out :)
Words to live by
Get a good signal to your amplifier. You can have best amp, subs power and it means nothing with garbage signal.
Solid tip
Power wire through the door? Yeah I did that too.
We’re all born sinners 😂😂
Electricity takes all available paths to source, not just least resistance.
Also you don't always need the most powerful subs and amps, many people would be satisfied with mid tier gear.
💯
I got 15000 watts rms on a stock alternator and golf cart battery. Of course this a lie I just wanted to comment on your video 😄
You got all the power!
@@HifiVega 🤣🤣🤣
👍👀👍
#1 most important rule of car audio is to use a fuse...
👏🏼🙌🏼
DSP is necessary. I guess that one is too obvious.
Yes dsp the world! I totally agree
You get what you pay for.
Not all enclosures can sound good in any car.
Dont haack ur wiring u will pay
Good video
Thanks