MY TRUCK HAS BEEN SITTING 6 MONTHS AND HAVE HAD TWO MECHANICS TRY TO FIX THIS RANDOM MISFIRE I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO YESTERDAY BOUGHT A DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND FOR THE FIRST TIME I HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON 😂😂😂. THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION YOU WILL ALWAYS BE A LEGEND TO ME
I fought this battle for years, new cap and it would run great, for about 3 months. I did the following fix and it's now going on 2 years without a fault. Check your distributor rotor for UP and DOWN movement. The cams on these engines will wear the distributor teeth enough the rotor will move up and down and therefore jump/miss contacts.
I recommend using AC/Delco parts for fuel & electrical parts. Only problems with cheap parts, been working on GM vehicle's for 40 years. Trust me the few extra bucks is worth it.
Wow! Wish I found this video sooner. I'm just winding up a major resurrection, of my son's 2000 Jimmy 4D SLE (mine now). All new brake lines, new fuel sending unit, new fuel filter (could hardly blow through the old one - the new one, is as easy as breathing), replaced radiator (a bitch to get reinstalled - the lower lines), and then got to the heart of the problem, a persistent miss in #6. Same route, bought a used, upgraded MPFI. Cap looked a bit worn, so replaced cap and rotor. Just pulling plugs now. The 3 I've gotten out so far, are all under gaped at .035 to .040. Hope to get it launched by Saturday, and praying that everything works!
I can concur to this video, my 2003 Blazer Xtreme (Non-EGR 4.3L Vortec) had a rough/low idle and a misfire. I had previously did the full tune up: Spark plugs and wires, distributor rotor and cap, fuel filter, fuel pump (had gone out shortly after buying the Blazer), and oil change. When the running rough condition got worse I replaced the spider injectors having smelled a strong fuel smell in the intake knowing it was the fuel pressure regulator leaking, still ran rough and missed. I then took the distributor cap off and sanded the contacts and reinstalled, still ran rough and missed. I then turned to youtube and came across this video, I knew I'd previously installed a cheap distributor cap so I went and got an Accel distributor cap and rotor, the Blazer now runs perfectly smooth with no issues. I really appreciate your video, it helped me out a ton!
I hear you brother, I'm currently in the same boat and I've narrowed it down to the cap and rotor. parts just got here today but I can't wait to install it with my old man. father /son project with a couple beers
I was having the same issues with my 2001 blazer and was getting extremely frustrated... I took your advice and replaced the cap and boom! Good as new. Thanks for posting this!
You're welcome. Did your old cap also look perfect like mine did? I've always been under the impression bad caps get all worn and pitted but maybe not.
Yes! No obvious wear... when I took it off I got discouraged because I felt like there was nothing wrong with it. But I was wrong. It obviously was bad.
my 2000 Silverado has a 4.3L and my cap was tied with 2 zip ties and it looked pretty bad I changed everything spark plugs + wire cap and rotor and I still have the miss fire???? any help
MY 1989 S10 Blazer was misfiring. Checked the wiring and found on sparkplug boot toasty... Replaced Cap rotor plugs. Ran ok for a few Months then stated misfiring again. Changed out air filter. Started running ok,but just for a few days... seems like it's running lean. so cleaned out the Throtle body, cleaned out EGR valve. It still worked great no need to replace and changed Map senser and pcv ... Running good again but still has a little shake... after seeing this video, will invest in a really good distributer Cap. Hope that takes care of the problem.... forgot to mention I also changed out all the vacuum lines...If anyone knows anything else I can change out,would appreciate it...
Just wanted to add here that on my 97 c1500, I've been chewing through rotors and caps from autozone on warranty for the past 3 years and when this problem showed up, I would replace them both and be good for a while. I have since put in a cheap aluminum distributor (the cap and rotor on those cheap distributors are absolutely awful so just throw them away and use your delco) and my horizontal slop (when turning the rotor) decreased significantly to about 1/4 of the original distributor and I have not had a p0300 dtc show up SINCE. Plus, the cap has actual fine threaded screws now instead of those t15/t20 screws for plastic, big plus. Start by buying new DELCO plugs, DELCO plug wires, and DELCO cap and rotor. test your coil as they generally will NOT be bad and then buy a new one if you want to. Usually a new cap and rotor would last about 6 months, this last time, they lasted a week. My symptoms for misfire was at 1500-1600 rpm, 40-45 mph, and accelerating and decelerating at 70 mph. At all these listed, I would have awful throttle response and engine hesitated so much you could feel it in the transmission! So a few months ago I did the distributor. It doesnt have to be stressful and only takes about 30 minutes. Immediately I could tell there was an incredible difference. Truck had no hesitation at all anymore. Ridiculously smooth idle, ridiculously powerful lower end. It felt like a new truck. I would like to point out I had already replaced the fuel pump and changed from CFI to MFI a few years back when dealing with a intake gasket leak. If you keep chewing through caps and rotors like I did for 3 years and have probably 3/8 to 1/2 inch (1 to 1.3 cm) of rotor movement horizontally, just buy a distributor already, not a stock plastic distributor but an aluminum one. Good luck with your misfire fellow gmt400 guys. P0300 absolutely sucks to diagnose but you'll eventually get there. Edit: reason for posting this now was I noticed my maintenance log was behind and I was updating it. I definitely understand the frustration of not knowing the ending to a thread on a forum post and the like so this is closure and may help at least somebody out. Give it a shot. I used a $50 distributor off amazon. Others online have sworn by this solution too. Look into it at least. I'd replaced every ignition component before this and I'm mad I did. Had a similar issue with a hard pull to the right and replaced the entire front end and suspension trying to fix it. turns out I did not replace the entire system, I had forgot to replace the tie rod adjusting sleeves and they were slipping threads on the tie rod allowing it to fall out of place. Think about everything you've replaced in a system then think if you've missed anything. FSM does NOT say much about p0300 so if you want to buy an fsm just for that (like I had) I'm telling you, it is NOT worth it.
You just resolved a big problem I have had for 2 years and 2 caps and rotors, both from Advance without a fix. Saw this and this time I went to Auto Zone for a different manufactured cap and it was an immediate success. Thanks so much.
Give you guys something else to check, chased the 300 code for months it includes such a wide range of parts, multiple parts changed on my 2004 Astro 4.3,checked fuel pressure,vacuum,compression,shorted wiring/replaced spider injector, distributor,rotor,cap,plugs(4.3 doesn't like iridium)wires,coil,maf and map,idle solenoid,vapor purge solenoid and probably forgot a couple things,all along it was the crankshaft sensor,not faulty,but the screw that holds it in the "plastic"timing cover was stripped so the sensor was loose and vibrated around not keeping the 030" airgap it needs,put in a helicoil to fix the threads,my buddy relearned the sensor with his snapon scanner and done,$2.00 thread repair and a buddy!
I have an 2000 S10 4.3 that was running rough and one morning, out of the blue, just would not fire up. Chevy guy at work said cap and rotor but don't buy the cheap one or in 2 to 3 years it'll be time to change it again. Replaced cap and rotor and yes it was time, lots of corrosion/fuzz on the contacts, and she fired up. Fast forward 2 years later and it wouldn't start. New cap and rotor and she fired up. Somebody posted a few comments below that the 4.3 does not like aftermarket parts and I think their right. Aluminium contacts on mine looked slightly "frosted" and it kinda looks like yours do too. Nothing beats copper. Next time, maybe.
Had "no start" issues with my 03 s10, 4.3l. Replaced bad looking ignition coil wire. Also replaced the other wires as they came in a pack. Worked a day. Then no start. Put in a new ignition coil- worked but hesitated badly when revving in neutral. Popping, backfiring or something. Saw your video and said shoot I'll try cap and rotor. They were replaced only a year ago (they were Ac delco parts and looked almost new -8,000 miles). Anyway, put new ac delco cap and rotor on and seems to have fixed the problem. I've taken it out in the rain and a few wet days and hammered on it. Runs stronger than before. Thanks for sharing your video
The dis. cap in the V6 4.3 is NOTORIOUS for failing. Most recommend AC Delco and nothing else. But whatever works for you. What I did was replace the all plastic distributor (the whole unit) with an all aluminum one - simple pop & drop. $100. For me that made a HUGE difference. Plastic under stress and heat will eventually ALWAYS fail.
Thank you for sharing this video about fixing your Blazer I had the same problem with my Jimmy and after I watched your video went and bought a distributor cap bang fixed thanks buddy
I had a P0305 code = Cylinder #5 misfire. I replaced the #5 spark Plug and wire for $9. This solved my issue. 2001 GMC Jimmy 4.3 V6 "W" code 142,725 miles
Juuuuuust Changed the rotor, (palindrome), ha ha ha, anyway, '96 Blaze, 152k, $700, ran fairly well before anything was done to it. Had a skip in number one, and a slight dry noise so I change out the water pump, fixed that. Changed out plugs. Same diagnostic. Change out rotor and cap. With cheapest one they had. I wanted to buy the more expensive one but my mechanic friend said they wear out about the same time, no matter which one you get. Still intermittent skip. I guess I'll buy the more expensive cap tomorrow. I will keep my fingers crossed... hope it's not the spider array. Thanks great Vid Truth.
My 2003 GMC Sonoma had a P0300 for year until I found a video describing the symptoms and he said to test the points in the cap for continuity (there should be none/no jumping from one to another). 2 & 4 were crossing! I had just installed a new dizzy that day! It was the last thing I thought of! I’m now on my 4th Dizzy. This last one one of the screws was “missing” from the rotor. I found it just sitting underneath. It had backed out and popped off. The other one was so corroded that it sheered off “for me.” 😁 😡 Had to take the whole assembly out, carefully drill it out (after I had tried to make a slot for a screwdriver but no room to get leverage) and reinstall with a new and cheap one. I read a comment on here to use AC Delco
Thanks for posting this. Quite often it’s the simplest things that are the most confounding. I just picked up a 2000 blazer today. It won’t start. The guy I bought it from took the heads off but didn’t adjust the valves on reassembly. I hope that’s the reason.
Yeah, don't buy anything from RockAuto. I tried them and the several items I bought there were junk. I have a misfire right now too. Fuel pressure is okay, but I have a severely melted harness by the exhaust manifold, so I'm going to start by replacing that.
It doesn't matter which cap you buy, they all will eventually start crossfiring. I've gone through 4. I started with the oem then bought the expensive one. Last two I got cheap from rockauto. They all lasted about the same time
I agree I had that same problem with a brand new cap it was a cheap Chinese it was all I could get at the time and it ran like crap I noticed it during routine maintenance so I put my old cap back on ran fine until I was able to buy AC Delco now I keep a spare AC Delco cap rotor and spark plugs they fit perfectly in the glove compartment
Thank you for posting this video, my 1998 Isuzu hombre started missing and throwing the p0300 code. When I cleared the code I got a p0301 code then after clearing it again I got a p0302 code, then another p0300 code. I saw your video and replaced my 4 month old cap with a new one and it solved my problem. Thanks again, just because the part is fairly new don't rule it out
So I replaced my cap on my 4.3 and I started getting misfires within like 2000 miles, it was a brand new AC Delco, and the contacts were starting to get pretty nasty, I believe it’s because the plug wires are such high resistance all the electricity is zapping the contacts in the cap, I should have replace my plug wires when I replace my cap, this is a 200,000 mile motor and I’m sure the plug wires were never changed
When the fuel pressure bled off, I don't think he clamped off the fuel line/lines to see which direction the bleed off was. Mine right now is bleeding pressure off in the direction of the fuel pump. Holds pressure after clamping that fuel line off in front of the fuel filter.
I have a 2003 GMC Jimmy with a 4.3L. It has a low rpm misfire and runs a little rough at idle. I’ve done a tuneup with new plugs, plug wires and distributor. I replaced the intake gasket. I did a compression check all good. I replaced the spider injectors three times in one month. Still have a misfire at idle.
Same thing here! I did everything you did except I changed the fuel pump as well,all the sensors! And $800 dollars in parts later it was a $30 dollar distributor cap, So 3 months after I fixed the problem the distributor cap went bad again . Must be a shotty design
A hairline Crack in the distributor. First time it took me awhile to sort out. Second time, I knew what it was. Mine was on a 70s jeep. No vehicle is immune to this.
GOOD FOR YOU! IF YOU HAD A MULTIMETER YOU CAN OHM THE 2 CYLINDERS THAT WERE MISFIRING AND THERE'D BE RESISTANCE INSTEAD OF BEING OL (OPEN LINE) COMMON ISSUE. AND ALWAYS USE OEM IF YOU CAN AFFORD THEM.
if it happens again i'll probably replace the whole distributor. I made a video before this where i took the distributor out and checked for play at the gear and i didn't seem too bad. Not new but also not that bad
@@alexsbikesandmotors I had to pull my distributor, after shearing off the #@$%! cheap screw, that came with my cheap ebay new cap. Checked it, as per some other video, and it seemed alright, but will keep an eye on it. Thx.
I have a 97 GMC Sonoma, same motor. I have to change the router and cab once a year because of the same problem. Have a brother with the same vehicle as you he too has to change the cap and rotor every year.
Did your Blazer have trouble with start up do to the P0300 code? im running P0300 P0175 and P1870 codes-- i changed the spark plug wires and plugs... new pump filter, my next step was regulator but wanted to ask if that cap problem was giving you start up issues?
It started pretty good but just ran terrible the whole time. If youve got that p0175 it could be a leaking spider injector. Very common problem on these trucks.
On my 2000 express 4.3 the distributor sensor was intermittent and replacing it fixed the problem. 35.00 after i replaced the EGR Plugs Wires Cap. Just saying its worth changing before the cost gets away from you.
you mean the cam position sensor that's inside the distributor? I replaced that a couple years before I made this video. Cam sensor will almost always throw a code though.
They are known for the cap looking fine and being bad I had the same problem with my Silverado with the 4.3 about 6 months ago and a GM tech said it’s one of the most common problems with them.
it's nice when a car just totally quits running. Seems easier to fix. A friend had a 95 dodge shadow. It had a problem I can't remember now, but it ran really bad. I raised the hood. It made so much noise. All kinds of noise and it was bucking and chucking... I told him, a normal car would just quit with all this going on and we could find the problem.
I own an 01 Blazer 4.3 v6. Same issue. I have learned there is a more expensive, better made cap and rotor that is sold on the aftermarket sites. I might have to invest in one.
Yeah some people tune these 4.3's so there's a ton of good aftermarket stuff. I think the stock AC Delco one should be good enough since my truck had the original cap when I bought it and it lasted 155k miles. Where I went wrong is buying China junk.
Yea even the ac Delco caps are junk. Ya gotta get something like a accel from summit racing or something super high quality. Because those wires run through the plastic so close together they end up finding any imperfection to arc through. But that's only part of my problem.
My 2001 Chevy van had the same problem, the distributor cap would crap out about once a year, I switched to a cap with brass contacts, last cap I had to put in it.
RANDOM MISFIRE FIGHT FOR MONTHS.....MINE ON MY 2001 GMC SONOMA WAS THE ORIGINAL COIL....( GONE BAD ) THE WAY YOU CAN TELL IS THE COIL IS RIVETED ON TO THE BRACKET...... ( WHICH MEANS IT'S ORIGINAL) BEING MINE WAS 2001 ..IT'S 19 YEARS OLD SO I REPLACED IT WITH ONE FROM THE JUNKYARD THAT LOOKED NEW AND WAS BOLTED ON ...WHICH MEANS SOMEBODY REPLACED IT.. AS SOON AS I PUT IT ON MISFIRE WAS GONE..... RUNS PERFECT ....HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE OUT THERE ....IT'S AT LEAST IT'S A CHEAP TRY ..
A lot of times its not the cap it’s just moisture in the cap if you spray it down with carb cleaner or anything with alcohol base and wipe it dry it works too saves a lot of money
I hope this is my issue as well. I have replaced the entire dist about 4 months ago when the rotor snapped and the truck stopped. Had the engine checked nothing bent. Truck ran great after i replaced the dist but three months after started suddenly misfiring hard at a stop light and died. I have since replaced fuel filter plugs wires and spider assembly. Made my mistake by buying a new dist from autozone. Still under warranty so I am going to get the cap replaced that came with the dist and see if that helps. Great video btw.
Alex's Bikes and Motors yep exactly that. I have gone through damn near everything so I am going to try and replace my cap and rotor plugs and wires and see if it was something simple that my untrained eye didnt think about.
we have a 2005 gmc jimmy that we have had since 2021, it just started misfiring, so we started with the plugs. we changed only 5 out of the 6 plugs, and it already doesn't misfire quite as much as it used to, we had the same error code come up(p0300)
Boy I wish that was my problem. But I have a brand new cap and rotor on and still runs like crap or idles like crap. Checked all the same things you did and more. Even took it to a Chevy dealers and one one can dine the problem.
Those distributor caps can look pristine and still be bad because they let moisture in. They don't use a gasket, which is an engineering fail if you ask me.
Lol just bought new spark plugs and was juuuust about to pull the trigger on a new spider injector set up. 🙃 going to buy a distributor cap tomorrow and solve this once and for all.
My 97 blazer has a sizzling sound coming from the brake pedal. The pedal is also hard to push and hesitate to pull off what could be my problem. Please someone
i had the same thing i had a bad coil and finally fix it all of it the upstream sencer was bad it caused the misfire running to lean bs change the two sencer often i was surprised after replacing half the dam motor ......
I'm having a really bad distributor problems that are causing a misfire similar to that on my 1955 Ford Customline that has a 1967 Ford 390 cubic inch Fe engine. I'm not sure what to do
There’s a chance that it’ll need another cap soon I worked on a 4.3 safari van that went through like 3 distributor caps in less than 2 months until I finally replaced the whole distributor it hasn’t had the problem ever since
I have a 96 chevy s10... I changed the air filter, the spider, fuel injectors and even took off the bed n changed the fuel pump. I'm hoping it's something as simple as the distributor cap. But so my question... when you say ur blazer ran shitty... what do u mean? I didn't look but do you have a video of it? So my s10 has been repeatedly backfiring as u accelerate, rough idle, smells like gas, doesn't accelerate when I step on the gas... doesn't stall out but just about sounds like it's going to and it's throwing the same codes that you mentioned... I appreciate any feedback thanks!
Im looking for one of these truck in good shape...almost impossible to find 2 wheel drive with the 4.3 engine 2 door automatic preferably...id gold on to. this truck...these are very desirable little trucks..
I have no check engine codes. Once in a while monitoring the current misfires and history I only got a intermittent *Misfire current cylinder 4 & 6* then it would go away and wouldn’t even get logged in the misfire history. I uploaded the data video cause I’m trying to find the source of what killed my catalytic converter. TIA🔧🔩🩺 At this point im determined to figure it out. Don’t wana throw parts at it. Tune up was done back in July. Ac delco and wix parts.
I would do a fuel pressure test. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the port on the fuel hose near the fire wall. You can verify it's getting enough pressure which should be like 60psi or more, and you can also verify the system holds pressure when you turn ignition off. If it looses pressure immediately it means the spider injector assembly has a leak which is common on these engines.
@@alexsbikesandmotors I got a perfect reading. I uploaded my test. If you have a chance can u see if I did the test right? ruclips.net/video/sqgMOTAp88s/видео.html
I have a multiple misfire, fixed anything there is to do with it and still it's happening. Don't know why and the parts are new. Any advice before it gets officially sold?
Damn I've done the cap earlier with no luck. About to do the whole distributor. The altnator has went bad twice also. Not sure if related. Chasing so many problems :(
Alternator and misfire probably aren't related at all. if the distributor itself is bad you'll have some sort of spark, the timing will just be out. First thing to do if you haven't yet is to check the diagnostic codes. They'll tell you a lot.
@@alexsbikesandmotors When you first replaced the cap with the cheap rock auto one did it make run worse or better?? How bad did it run ? I think i may have same issue... thax...PS this is my biggest challenge ever fixing anything...
@@roadstar499 The first time I replaced the cap was 4 years before this video, the truck was running fine before and after I replaced it. The new rockauto cap developed the problem after like 25k miles
@@alexsbikesandmotors actually 25k seems pretty good...i think some screw almost right away from what i read in comments..i bought cheap brand new chinese $12 ebay rotor and cap.never ran good..i hope this is my problem..
@@roadstar499 When i bought my truck it was 18 years old with 155k miles and it was still running good on all original parts- plugs wires cap rotor injectors fuel pump everything. I would've liked the new cap to last a whole lot longer but i guess nothing is built to last anymore like it was when these trucks were new.
My 98 Jimmy runs perfect while driving, but soon as I come to a stop and sitting there idling, holding brakes, it starts to fluctuate the rpms, and sometimes dies. Any suggestions?!
On a 2001 Chevy S10 pickup doing plugs wires and cap have you ever heard of you have to reset the computer please comment back in let me know or is it just caught in dry you do the plugs the wires in the cap and you keep it movin need to know thank you
You do not have to reset the computer after changing plugs and wires. Resetting the computer doesn't do anything except erase the codes that set off the check engine light. It won't affect how the engine runs.
@@alexsbikesandmotors But did he have to race it so much that the stuff in the Converter was coming out the tailpipe does he have to race it that much please comment back thank you
I have replaced fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil and it’s still throwing a code for misfires!!! HELP!!!
Hi. I am working on a 97' Blazer 4.3 for a friend of mine. It was so difficult to get it to run, but once it ran, it drove perfectly. It would stop every now and then, but no more than that. Anyway... I figured I would replace the distributor cap and rotor. Just by looking at the old cap and rotor, it looked like a new cap and rotor would do wonders. Changed it out with AC Delco parts, and it fired right up on the first crank. Then we took it out for a test drive, and suddenly after 1-2 miles it started breaking up and misfiring really bad. Any suggestions? Should I try another distributor cap and rotor?
Is the check engine light on? the first thing I would do is check for codes. Also I would bet the cap and rotor are fine. There's no way a cap and rotor could fail in 2 miles unless it was installed wrong. Next thing I would do is pressure test the fuel system to rule it out. Connect gauge to port on back of motor, turn ignition on 3 secs, pressure should build to around 60psi and stay above 50 for a couple minutes at least. If you lose pressure then the spider injector needs replacing (very common on this motor and feels like an ignition misfire). If it passes this test and you've got no codes then it's probably ignition. From there I would check every part of the ign system starting at plugs (all 6) and working back to the dist. You're really shooting in the dark without pulling the codes first though. These are complicated trucks and they love to run like crap.
The check engine light is not on actually... First time wrenching on a car this "new", so I dont have a OBD scanner actually. Ordered one now though...Ok, sounds good. I just wanted to ask some people with more experience with these trucks than me. Thank you so much for helping me out, I really appreciate that! :)
Describe when and how much did you have the misfire I have a misfire and can't figer it out. It only does it when warmed up to temperature. and only when driving.
+Justin's Detecting channel - Do you see a lot of Moisture / Dripping from your Tail Pipe? If YES, then most likely is what happening to ALL the 4.3L Vortec Engine. They are notorious of Coolant Leaks on the " Driver " Side close to the EGR Tube. Behind your AC Compressor.... Look there... There is a bolt that hold the Head Gasket close to your FRONT Valve Cover. If there are Moisture.... Then most likely like ours... We have an S10 and Blazer and BOTH leaks at the SAME location at the Bolt. This would make it hard to start or in the morning or when rain outside... The extra Moisture makes is seem hard to start... But the culprit would be where I point it out above. NOTE: Check your Tail Pipe and see if your have " white " smokes + water dripping.... Even if your Engine is running like 10 Minutes+ If YES..., then go to the location I point out.
+Justin's Detecting channel - Look what I just found out why " Moisture " in the Distributor Cap! I made a Video here: ruclips.net/video/zWHvMYCItkE/видео.html
So it was misfiring while idling before? My S10 is starting to misfire just a little bit when the engine is warmed up. I know I have a vacuum leak so I'm going to fix that first and see then.
it was misfiring the whole time at any engine speed. Sounded terrible and barely ran. I got another video on here that I made before I fixed it and I talk about the misfire in more detail.
@@alexsbikesandmotors Thank you for sharing. Mine only misses a little bit and runs great so I'm assuming it's something else. Definitely will keep an eye on the Cap though!
MY TRUCK HAS BEEN SITTING 6 MONTHS AND HAVE HAD TWO MECHANICS TRY TO FIX THIS RANDOM MISFIRE I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO YESTERDAY BOUGHT A DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND FOR THE FIRST TIME I HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON 😂😂😂. THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION YOU WILL ALWAYS BE A LEGEND TO ME
NEXT WE BOTH WILL HEAD DOWN TO THE CLINIC AND HAVE OUR BALLS REMOVED OFF THE CAP LOCK KEY WHEN TYPING WITH OUR PENISES
DAD I LOVE YOU AND THANK YOU FOR THIS MY s10 will live again 💙‼️
I fought this battle for years, new cap and it would run great, for about 3 months. I did the following fix and it's now going on 2 years without a fault.
Check your distributor rotor for UP and DOWN movement. The cams on these engines will wear the distributor teeth enough the rotor will move up and down and therefore jump/miss contacts.
That sucks boss any good mechanic would get it done. These blazers are high maintenance lol
very rarely do people follow up with the fix / results. Thank You
I recommend using AC/Delco parts for fuel & electrical parts. Only problems with cheap parts, been working on GM vehicle's for 40 years. Trust me the few extra bucks is worth it.
yep the 4.3 for some reason hates aftermarket
Wow! Wish I found this video sooner. I'm just winding up a major resurrection, of my son's 2000 Jimmy 4D SLE (mine now). All new brake lines, new fuel sending unit, new fuel filter (could hardly blow through the old one - the new one, is as easy as breathing), replaced radiator (a bitch to get reinstalled - the lower lines), and then got to the heart of the problem, a persistent miss in #6. Same route, bought a used, upgraded MPFI. Cap looked a bit worn, so replaced cap and rotor. Just pulling plugs now. The 3 I've gotten out so far, are all under gaped at .035 to .040. Hope to get it launched by Saturday, and praying that everything works!
I can concur to this video, my 2003 Blazer Xtreme (Non-EGR 4.3L Vortec) had a rough/low idle and a misfire. I had previously did the full tune up: Spark plugs and wires, distributor rotor and cap, fuel filter, fuel pump (had gone out shortly after buying the Blazer), and oil change. When the running rough condition got worse I replaced the spider injectors having smelled a strong fuel smell in the intake knowing it was the fuel pressure regulator leaking, still ran rough and missed. I then took the distributor cap off and sanded the contacts and reinstalled, still ran rough and missed. I then turned to youtube and came across this video, I knew I'd previously installed a cheap distributor cap so I went and got an Accel distributor cap and rotor, the Blazer now runs perfectly smooth with no issues. I really appreciate your video, it helped me out a ton!
You saved my life Bro! My car is finally fixed after three months! Thanks alot for posting.
no problem. glad it helped.
@@alexsbikesandmotorshey brotha my 02 chevy s10 4.3 has a p0301 code. I change the spark plugs, wires, and ignition coil. What can it be? Please help
Help me. Ive done the starter. Distributor. Neutral safety switch. Fuel pump. Fuel tank. Fuel filter. And its still not running
I hear you brother, I'm currently in the same boat and I've narrowed it down to the cap and rotor. parts just got here today but I can't wait to install it with my old man. father /son project with a couple beers
I was having the same issues with my 2001 blazer and was getting extremely frustrated... I took your advice and replaced the cap and boom! Good as new. Thanks for posting this!
You're welcome. Did your old cap also look perfect like mine did? I've always been under the impression bad caps get all worn and pitted but maybe not.
Yes! No obvious wear... when I took it off I got discouraged because I felt like there was nothing wrong with it. But I was wrong. It obviously was bad.
Look what I just found out why " Moisture " in the Distributor Cap! I made a Video here: ruclips.net/video/zWHvMYCItkE/видео.html
my 2000 Silverado has a 4.3L and my cap was tied with 2 zip ties and it looked pretty bad I changed everything spark plugs + wire cap and rotor and I still have the miss fire???? any help
Jesse Gutierrez just to name a few problems ignition coil, ignition module, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, fuel problems, air problems etc
MY 1989 S10 Blazer was misfiring. Checked the wiring and found on sparkplug boot toasty... Replaced Cap rotor plugs. Ran ok for a few Months then stated misfiring again. Changed out air filter. Started running ok,but just for a few days... seems like it's running lean. so cleaned out the Throtle body, cleaned out EGR valve. It still worked great no need to replace and changed Map senser and pcv ... Running good again but still has a little shake... after seeing this video, will invest in a really good distributer Cap. Hope that takes care of the problem.... forgot to mention I also changed out all the vacuum lines...If anyone knows anything else I can change out,would appreciate it...
Just wanted to add here that on my 97 c1500, I've been chewing through rotors and caps from autozone on warranty for the past 3 years and when this problem showed up, I would replace them both and be good for a while. I have since put in a cheap aluminum distributor (the cap and rotor on those cheap distributors are absolutely awful so just throw them away and use your delco) and my horizontal slop (when turning the rotor) decreased significantly to about 1/4 of the original distributor and I have not had a p0300 dtc show up SINCE. Plus, the cap has actual fine threaded screws now instead of those t15/t20 screws for plastic, big plus.
Start by buying new DELCO plugs, DELCO plug wires, and DELCO cap and rotor. test your coil as they generally will NOT be bad and then buy a new one if you want to.
Usually a new cap and rotor would last about 6 months, this last time, they lasted a week.
My symptoms for misfire was at 1500-1600 rpm, 40-45 mph, and accelerating and decelerating at 70 mph. At all these listed, I would have awful throttle response and engine hesitated so much you could feel it in the transmission!
So a few months ago I did the distributor. It doesnt have to be stressful and only takes about 30 minutes. Immediately I could tell there was an incredible difference. Truck had no hesitation at all anymore. Ridiculously smooth idle, ridiculously powerful lower end. It felt like a new truck. I would like to point out I had already replaced the fuel pump and changed from CFI to MFI a few years back when dealing with a intake gasket leak.
If you keep chewing through caps and rotors like I did for 3 years and have probably 3/8 to 1/2 inch (1 to 1.3 cm) of rotor movement horizontally, just buy a distributor already, not a stock plastic distributor but an aluminum one. Good luck with your misfire fellow gmt400 guys. P0300 absolutely sucks to diagnose but you'll eventually get there.
Edit: reason for posting this now was I noticed my maintenance log was behind and I was updating it. I definitely understand the frustration of not knowing the ending to a thread on a forum post and the like so this is closure and may help at least somebody out. Give it a shot. I used a $50 distributor off amazon. Others online have sworn by this solution too. Look into it at least. I'd replaced every ignition component before this and I'm mad I did. Had a similar issue with a hard pull to the right and replaced the entire front end and suspension trying to fix it. turns out I did not replace the entire system, I had forgot to replace the tie rod adjusting sleeves and they were slipping threads on the tie rod allowing it to fall out of place. Think about everything you've replaced in a system then think if you've missed anything. FSM does NOT say much about p0300 so if you want to buy an fsm just for that (like I had) I'm telling you, it is NOT worth it.
Powerslayer 97 Tahoe with p300 changing cap& rotor today thought that might be it, hope it is.
You just resolved a big problem I have had for 2 years and 2 caps and rotors, both from Advance without a fix. Saw this and this time I went to Auto Zone for a different manufactured cap and it was an immediate success. Thanks so much.
you're welcome. glad it worked out. I also used to buy parts at advance but now I always go to auto zone. auto zone is usually cheapest too.
🤯 I just bought a cap for my 2000 blazer off rock auto..
Welp if the problem persists, I now know my next move.
@@anthonygregory5150 i bought that defective cap 10 years ago. maybe they're selling better ones now. lol
Give you guys something else to check, chased the 300 code for months it includes such a wide range of parts, multiple parts changed on my 2004 Astro 4.3,checked fuel pressure,vacuum,compression,shorted wiring/replaced spider injector, distributor,rotor,cap,plugs(4.3 doesn't like iridium)wires,coil,maf and map,idle solenoid,vapor purge solenoid and probably forgot a couple things,all along it was the crankshaft sensor,not faulty,but the screw that holds it in the "plastic"timing cover was stripped so the sensor was loose and vibrated around not keeping the 030" airgap it needs,put in a helicoil to fix the threads,my buddy relearned the sensor with his snapon scanner and done,$2.00 thread repair and a buddy!
What happens if sensor isn't relearned? What symptoms will show up when that is necessary?
I have an 2000 S10 4.3 that was running rough and one morning, out of the blue, just would not fire up. Chevy guy at work said cap and rotor but don't buy the cheap one or in 2 to 3 years it'll be time to change it again. Replaced cap and rotor and yes it was time, lots of corrosion/fuzz on the contacts, and she fired up.
Fast forward 2 years later and it wouldn't start. New cap and rotor and she fired up. Somebody posted a few comments below that the 4.3 does not like aftermarket parts and I think their right. Aluminium contacts on mine looked slightly "frosted" and it kinda looks like yours do too. Nothing beats copper. Next time, maybe.
What side of the engine is cylinder # 1 on?
@@firebufff8523 As your looking at the motor with the hood up, cylinder closest to you, right hand side.
Had "no start" issues with my 03 s10, 4.3l. Replaced bad looking ignition coil wire. Also replaced the other wires as they came in a pack. Worked a day. Then no start. Put in a new ignition coil- worked but hesitated badly when revving in neutral. Popping, backfiring or something. Saw your video and said shoot I'll try cap and rotor. They were replaced only a year ago (they were Ac delco parts and looked almost new -8,000 miles). Anyway, put new ac delco cap and rotor on and seems to have fixed the problem. I've taken it out in the rain and a few wet days and hammered on it. Runs stronger than before. Thanks for sharing your video
Lmao I have captions on and when you pulled the throttle it said "music"
Yeah RUclips, it's music to my ears as well.
Bro...thank you for this video! I stocked up my s10 with 2 extra caps just in case this happens again. My baby feels brand new again thanks to you
The dis. cap in the V6 4.3 is NOTORIOUS for failing. Most recommend AC Delco and nothing else. But whatever works for you. What I did was replace the all plastic distributor (the whole unit) with an all aluminum one - simple pop & drop. $100. For me that made a HUGE difference. Plastic under stress and heat will eventually ALWAYS fail.
You gotta link to dat?
Thank you for sharing this video about fixing your Blazer I had the same problem with my Jimmy and after I watched your video went and bought a distributor cap bang fixed thanks buddy
I had a P0305 code = Cylinder #5 misfire. I replaced the #5 spark Plug and wire for $9. This solved my issue. 2001 GMC Jimmy 4.3 V6 "W" code 142,725 miles
Juuuuuust Changed the rotor, (palindrome), ha ha ha, anyway,
'96 Blaze, 152k, $700, ran fairly well before anything was done to it. Had a skip in number one, and a slight dry noise so I change out the water pump, fixed that. Changed out plugs. Same diagnostic. Change out rotor and cap. With cheapest one they had. I wanted to buy the more expensive one but my mechanic friend said they wear out about the same time, no matter which one you get. Still intermittent skip. I guess I'll buy the more expensive cap tomorrow.
I will keep my fingers crossed... hope it's not the spider array.
Thanks great Vid Truth.
Good luck. You can quickly rule out the spider by doing a fuel pressure test. If it loses fuel pressure once pump stops running, spider has a leak.
I did a swap 4.3 astro motor on a chevy and im having this problem..
Thanks for the update, you just fixed my 96 Jimmy.
My 2003 GMC Sonoma had a P0300 for year until I found a video describing the symptoms and he said to test the points in the cap for continuity (there should be none/no jumping from one to another). 2 & 4 were crossing! I had just installed a new dizzy that day! It was the last thing I thought of! I’m now on my 4th Dizzy. This last one one of the screws was “missing” from the rotor. I found it just sitting underneath. It had backed out and popped off. The other one was so corroded that it sheered off “for me.” 😁 😡 Had to take the whole assembly out, carefully drill it out (after I had tried to make a slot for a screwdriver but no room to get leverage) and reinstall with a new and cheap one. I read a comment on here to use AC Delco
Thanks for posting this. Quite often it’s the simplest things that are the most confounding.
I just picked up a 2000 blazer today. It won’t start. The guy I bought it from took the heads off but didn’t adjust the valves on reassembly. I hope that’s the reason.
Good luck with your truck. These engines have hydraulic adjusters
Thanks for this video man!!! You saved me a lot of time, headache and money!!
Yeah, don't buy anything from RockAuto. I tried them and the several items I bought there were junk.
I have a misfire right now too. Fuel pressure is okay, but I have a severely melted harness by the exhaust manifold, so I'm going to start by replacing that.
It doesn't matter which cap you buy, they all will eventually start crossfiring. I've gone through 4. I started with the oem then bought the expensive one. Last two I got cheap from rockauto. They all lasted about the same time
Had exactly the same problem on my Chevy Astro 94..... Thanks
Mine had the same problem before and it started again today. Im going to get a delco one this time. The distributor is what im talking about.
Could have moisture in the cap causing spark to jump
Spraying WD-40 inside the rotor cap is recommended by some mechanics…
I agree I had that same problem with a brand new cap it was a cheap Chinese it was all I could get at the time and it ran like crap I noticed it during routine maintenance so I put my old cap back on ran fine until I was able to buy AC Delco now I keep a spare AC Delco cap rotor and spark plugs they fit perfectly in the glove compartment
Thank you for posting this video, my 1998 Isuzu hombre started missing and throwing the p0300 code. When I cleared the code I got a p0301 code then after clearing it again I got a p0302 code, then another p0300 code. I saw your video and replaced my 4 month old cap with a new one and it solved my problem. Thanks again, just because the part is fairly new don't rule it out
you're welcome. glad i could help
So I replaced my cap on my 4.3 and I started getting misfires within like 2000 miles, it was a brand new AC Delco, and the contacts were starting to get pretty nasty, I believe it’s because the plug wires are such high resistance all the electricity is zapping the contacts in the cap, I should have replace my plug wires when I replace my cap, this is a 200,000 mile motor and I’m sure the plug wires were never changed
When the fuel pressure bled off, I don't think he clamped off the fuel line/lines to see which direction the bleed off was. Mine right now is bleeding pressure off in the direction of the fuel pump. Holds pressure after clamping that fuel line off in front of the fuel filter.
I have a 2003 GMC Jimmy with a 4.3L. It has a low rpm misfire and runs a little rough at idle. I’ve done a tuneup with new plugs, plug wires and distributor. I replaced the intake gasket. I did a compression check all good. I replaced the spider injectors three times in one month. Still have a misfire at idle.
Same exact problem here...
Try the crankshaft position sensor happened to me and that fixed it
I changed that in mine, but it still has a P0303. I've been chasing this for years now.
Yea, we are interested. It worked. Wow! Finally my Jimmy runs good. Weeks of aggravation. Thanks. 😅😂😊
Thank you, sir! Gave me the confidence to just try cap and button and it worked!
Makes sense. Mine ran worse after a tune up. I'm going to buy a better cap and see what happens! Thanks.
Well wat happened
@@TRICITYTRASHOUTS Nothing yet. Still mis fires.
Cool, having the same problem I’ll check the cap also thank you !!!
I changed some parts before my mechanic said cap and rotor are notorious on the type of vehicles, on the road again! A/C delco parts ...
I hope that’s my issue today. I’ve changed everything like you. Only thing I know to try
Same thing here! I did everything you did except I changed the fuel pump as well,all the sensors! And $800 dollars in parts later it was a $30 dollar distributor cap, So 3 months after I fixed the problem the distributor cap went bad again . Must be a shotty design
I'm interested. That's why I'm here!
A hairline Crack in the distributor. First time it took me awhile to sort out. Second time, I knew what it was. Mine was on a 70s jeep. No vehicle is immune to this.
Im having the same problem I've replaced everything single thing I'm try my old cap and see what happens or buy a new one
Well?????
GOOD FOR YOU! IF YOU HAD A MULTIMETER YOU CAN OHM THE 2 CYLINDERS THAT WERE MISFIRING AND THERE'D BE RESISTANCE INSTEAD OF BEING OL (OPEN LINE) COMMON ISSUE. AND ALWAYS USE OEM IF YOU CAN AFFORD THEM.
why not just use the continuity setting
If your cap keeps going bad replace the distributer , happened on my astro
if it happens again i'll probably replace the whole distributor. I made a video before this where i took the distributor out and checked for play at the gear and i didn't seem too bad. Not new but also not that bad
@@alexsbikesandmotors I had to pull my distributor, after shearing off the #@$%! cheap screw, that came with my cheap ebay new cap. Checked it, as per some other video, and it seemed alright, but will keep an eye on it. Thx.
The whole aasmbly only costa bit more than a cap,rotor, cam sensor
Youcan get the relacement made of metal too,so an all round win/win
I have a 97 GMC Sonoma, same motor. I have to change the router and cab once a year because of the same problem. Have a brother with the same vehicle as you he too has to change the cap and rotor every year.
Did your Blazer have trouble with start up do to the P0300 code?
im running P0300 P0175 and P1870 codes-- i changed the spark plug wires and plugs...
new pump filter, my next step was regulator but wanted to ask if that cap problem was giving you start up issues?
It started pretty good but just ran terrible the whole time. If youve got that p0175 it could be a leaking spider injector. Very common problem on these trucks.
On my 2000 express 4.3 the distributor sensor was intermittent and replacing it fixed the problem. 35.00 after i replaced the EGR Plugs Wires Cap. Just saying its worth changing before the cost gets away from you.
you mean the cam position sensor that's inside the distributor? I replaced that a couple years before I made this video. Cam sensor will almost always throw a code though.
They are known for the cap looking fine and being bad I had the same problem with my Silverado with the 4.3 about 6 months ago and a GM tech said it’s one of the most common problems with them.
Fixed my express van too
Thanks!!!
Just had this same problem with 2000 gmc sonoma,changed the cap,problem fixed.🤗🤗
it's nice when a car just totally quits running. Seems easier to fix. A friend had a 95 dodge shadow. It had a problem I can't remember now, but it ran really bad. I raised the hood. It made so much noise. All kinds of noise and it was bucking and chucking... I told him, a normal car would just quit with all this going on and we could find the problem.
I own an 01 Blazer 4.3 v6. Same issue. I have learned there is a more expensive, better made cap and rotor that is sold on the aftermarket sites. I might have to invest in one.
Yeah some people tune these 4.3's so there's a ton of good aftermarket stuff. I think the stock AC Delco one should be good enough since my truck had the original cap when I bought it and it lasted 155k miles. Where I went wrong is buying China junk.
Yea even the ac Delco caps are junk. Ya gotta get something like a accel from summit racing or something super high quality. Because those wires run through the plastic so close together they end up finding any imperfection to arc through.
But that's only part of my problem.
My misfire, was a bad coil. Runs like new! 1996 GMC Jimmy.
Did yours spit and sputter real bad?
Shit, that may be my same problem. Been trying to find out WTH it was!! Thanks for the info!!!
My 2001 Chevy van had the same problem, the distributor cap would crap out about once a year, I switched to a cap with brass contacts, last cap I had to put in it.
RANDOM MISFIRE FIGHT FOR MONTHS.....MINE ON MY 2001 GMC SONOMA WAS THE ORIGINAL COIL....( GONE BAD ) THE WAY YOU CAN TELL IS THE COIL IS RIVETED ON TO THE BRACKET...... ( WHICH MEANS IT'S ORIGINAL) BEING MINE WAS 2001 ..IT'S 19 YEARS OLD SO I REPLACED IT WITH ONE FROM THE JUNKYARD THAT LOOKED NEW AND WAS BOLTED ON ...WHICH MEANS SOMEBODY REPLACED IT.. AS SOON AS I PUT IT ON MISFIRE WAS GONE..... RUNS PERFECT ....HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE OUT THERE ....IT'S AT LEAST IT'S A CHEAP TRY ..
A lot of times its not the cap it’s just moisture in the cap if you spray it down with carb cleaner or anything with alcohol base and wipe it dry it works too saves a lot of money
Charles Long wd40 dissipates the moisture I’ve done that for years !
I hope this is my issue as well. I have replaced the entire dist about 4 months ago when the rotor snapped and the truck stopped. Had the engine checked nothing bent. Truck ran great after i replaced the dist but three months after started suddenly misfiring hard at a stop light and died. I have since replaced fuel filter plugs wires and spider assembly. Made my mistake by buying a new dist from autozone. Still under warranty so I am going to get the cap replaced that came with the dist and see if that helps. Great video btw.
Does it have any check engine codes? Usually you'll get p0300 at least.
Alex's Bikes and Motors yep exactly that. I have gone through damn near everything so I am going to try and replace my cap and rotor plugs and wires and see if it was something simple that my untrained eye didnt think about.
@@spectrun626 I have same issue even replace timing chain...when you changed cap did it fix... if so im buying another cap and rotor.. thanks
@@roadstar499 the cap fixed the issue for about 50 miles then my p0300 came back.
@@spectrun626 whatever is causing my 4.3 to run like crap i need to fix it monday..i am done dealing with the headache ..thax
Thanks man helped me a ton 👍🏼
Same prob with my 99. Can’t do the cheap aftermarket caps. Gotta go factory cap. Wish my miss with my 94 was that easy.
Great video!!!
we have a 2005 gmc jimmy that we have had since 2021, it just started misfiring, so we started with the plugs. we changed only 5 out of the 6 plugs, and it already doesn't misfire quite as much as it used to, we had the same error code come up(p0300)
Boy I wish that was my problem. But I have a brand new cap and rotor on and still runs like crap or idles like crap. Checked all the same things you did and more. Even took it to a Chevy dealers and one one can dine the problem.
Those distributor caps can look pristine and still be bad because they let moisture in. They don't use a gasket, which is an engineering fail if you ask me.
Lol just bought new spark plugs and was juuuust about to pull the trigger on a new spider injector set up. 🙃 going to buy a distributor cap tomorrow and solve this once and for all.
Old spider , is in perfect working order, I'll give ya $55.00 for it
AC del parts only.
The knockoffs don’t work well or for that long
My 97 blazer has a sizzling sound coming from the brake pedal. The pedal is also hard to push and hesitate to pull off what could be my problem. Please someone
When ever you get a p0300 code, p0301-p0306 in a Vortec 4.3 engine, change your distributor cap and rotor, easy fix
i had the same thing i had a bad coil and finally fix it all of it the upstream sencer was bad it caused the misfire running to lean bs change the two sencer often i was surprised after replacing half the dam motor ......
I'm having a really bad distributor problems that are causing a misfire similar to that on my 1955 Ford Customline that has a 1967 Ford 390 cubic inch Fe engine. I'm not sure what to do
Now you can change your heater core😂
I dont need heat i live in florida lol
There’s a chance that it’ll need another cap soon I worked on a 4.3 safari van that went through like 3 distributor caps in less than 2 months until I finally replaced the whole distributor it hasn’t had the problem ever since
I have a 96 chevy s10... I changed the air filter, the spider, fuel injectors and even took off the bed n changed the fuel pump. I'm hoping it's something as simple as the distributor cap. But so my question... when you say ur blazer ran shitty... what do u mean? I didn't look but do you have a video of it? So my s10 has been repeatedly backfiring as u accelerate, rough idle, smells like gas, doesn't accelerate when I step on the gas... doesn't stall out but just about sounds like it's going to and it's throwing the same codes that you mentioned... I appreciate any feedback thanks!
I’m about to throw my blazer in the trash. I recently replaced that too.
I installed an Accel cap in mine and it went bad after only three months! Never again. Buying only ac delco or napa echlin from now on.
Im looking for one of these truck in good shape...almost impossible to find 2 wheel drive with the 4.3 engine 2 door automatic preferably...id gold on to. this truck...these are very desirable little trucks..
You should've told me a couple years ago. I sold this truck cheap like $650 I think. It wasn't in too bad a shape either. Just had too many cars.
I have no check engine codes. Once in a while monitoring the current misfires and history I only got a intermittent *Misfire current cylinder 4 & 6* then it would go away and wouldn’t even get logged in the misfire history. I uploaded the data video cause I’m trying to find the source of what killed my catalytic converter. TIA🔧🔩🩺 At this point im determined to figure it out. Don’t wana throw parts at it. Tune up was done back in July. Ac delco and wix parts.
I would do a fuel pressure test. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the port on the fuel hose near the fire wall. You can verify it's getting enough pressure which should be like 60psi or more, and you can also verify the system holds pressure when you turn ignition off. If it looses pressure immediately it means the spider injector assembly has a leak which is common on these engines.
@@alexsbikesandmotors I got a perfect reading. I uploaded my test. If you have a chance can u see if I did the test right? ruclips.net/video/sqgMOTAp88s/видео.html
I have a multiple misfire, fixed anything there is to do with it and still it's happening. Don't know why and the parts are new. Any advice before it gets officially sold?
Damn I've done the cap earlier with no luck. About to do the whole distributor. The altnator has went bad twice also. Not sure if related. Chasing so many problems :(
Alternator and misfire probably aren't related at all. if the distributor itself is bad you'll have some sort of spark, the timing will just be out. First thing to do if you haven't yet is to check the diagnostic codes. They'll tell you a lot.
If you own a 4.3 only use AC tune up parts the rest a junk.....
i went with ac delco platinum plugs which are still working fine after 40k miles but i cheaped out and bought the cheapest wires and cap
@@alexsbikesandmotors When you first replaced the cap with the cheap rock auto one did it make run worse or better?? How bad did it run ? I think i may have same issue... thax...PS this is my biggest challenge ever fixing anything...
@@roadstar499 The first time I replaced the cap was 4 years before this video, the truck was running fine before and after I replaced it. The new rockauto cap developed the problem after like 25k miles
@@alexsbikesandmotors actually 25k seems pretty good...i think some screw almost right away from what i read in comments..i bought cheap brand new chinese $12 ebay rotor and cap.never ran good..i hope this is my problem..
@@roadstar499 When i bought my truck it was 18 years old with 155k miles and it was still running good on all original parts- plugs wires cap rotor injectors fuel pump everything. I would've liked the new cap to last a whole lot longer but i guess nothing is built to last anymore like it was when these trucks were new.
Noticed that there were no heater hoses going to where the heater core tubes come through the firewall.
Yeah heater core was leaking so I bypassed it. I live in florida so i don't need heat.
Thanks Buddy y ou u really saved me
My 98 Jimmy runs perfect while driving, but soon as I come to a stop and sitting there idling, holding brakes, it starts to fluctuate the rpms, and sometimes dies. Any suggestions?!
May have a small crack or possibly have moisture in it
On a 2001 Chevy S10 pickup doing plugs wires and cap have you ever heard of you have to reset the computer please comment back in let me know or is it just caught in dry you do the plugs the wires in the cap and you keep it movin need to know thank you
You do not have to reset the computer after changing plugs and wires. Resetting the computer doesn't do anything except erase the codes that set off the check engine light. It won't affect how the engine runs.
@@alexsbikesandmotors But did he have to race it so much that the stuff in the Converter was coming out the tailpipe does he have to race it that much please comment back thank you
i did replace everything you said including sparks plus and spider injector and gasket plus my rotor cap 3x what do you think it is now lol
same thing happened to me swapped the spider and all lol
Those caps go bad inside
I have replaced fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil and it’s still throwing a code for misfires!!! HELP!!!
Check compression on each cylinder
Hi. I am working on a 97' Blazer 4.3 for a friend of mine. It was so difficult to get it to run, but once it ran, it drove perfectly. It would stop every now and then, but no more than that. Anyway... I figured I would replace the distributor cap and rotor. Just by looking at the old cap and rotor, it looked like a new cap and rotor would do wonders. Changed it out with AC Delco parts, and it fired right up on the first crank. Then we took it out for a test drive, and suddenly after 1-2 miles it started breaking up and misfiring really bad. Any suggestions? Should I try another distributor cap and rotor?
Is the check engine light on? the first thing I would do is check for codes. Also I would bet the cap and rotor are fine. There's no way a cap and rotor could fail in 2 miles unless it was installed wrong. Next thing I would do is pressure test the fuel system to rule it out. Connect gauge to port on back of motor, turn ignition on 3 secs, pressure should build to around 60psi and stay above 50 for a couple minutes at least. If you lose pressure then the spider injector needs replacing (very common on this motor and feels like an ignition misfire). If it passes this test and you've got no codes then it's probably ignition. From there I would check every part of the ign system starting at plugs (all 6) and working back to the dist. You're really shooting in the dark without pulling the codes first though. These are complicated trucks and they love to run like crap.
The check engine light is not on actually... First time wrenching on a car this "new", so I dont have a OBD scanner actually. Ordered one now though...Ok, sounds good. I just wanted to ask some people with more experience with these trucks than me. Thank you so much for helping me out, I really appreciate that! :)
no problem. weird that there's no check engine light but the scanner will show you any previous stored codes
When a 96 Chevy Blazer 4.3 L when it turns on and it doesn't stay running what could you be
How do you individually test fuel injectors on a Chevy S10 2003
I hear a vacuum leak big-time
It was jumping between 1 and 2 cuz of how close they are
Describe when and how much did you have the misfire I have a misfire and can't figer it out. It only does it when warmed up to temperature. and only when driving.
I have another video on my channel that i made before I fixed it and it explains the misfire in more detail.
thats usually the first thing you do on chev 4.3
Mines hard to start in morning and acts flooded any suggestions
might be a leaking spider injector. Do a fuel pressure test
I put new enjectors,plugs and wires im thinking its the distributor cap bow idk trying it tomorrow
+Justin's Detecting channel - Do you see a lot of Moisture / Dripping from your Tail Pipe? If YES, then most likely is what happening to ALL the 4.3L Vortec Engine. They are notorious of Coolant Leaks on the " Driver " Side close to the EGR Tube. Behind your AC Compressor.... Look there... There is a bolt that hold the Head Gasket close to your FRONT Valve Cover. If there are Moisture.... Then most likely like ours... We have an S10 and Blazer and BOTH leaks at the SAME location at the Bolt. This would make it hard to start or in the morning or when rain outside... The extra Moisture makes is seem hard to start... But the culprit would be where I point it out above. NOTE: Check your Tail Pipe and see if your have " white " smokes + water dripping.... Even if your Engine is running like 10 Minutes+ If YES..., then go to the location I point out.
It all cleared up with new distributor cap but thanks ill keep it in mind if it starts acting up again
+Justin's Detecting channel - Look what I just found out why " Moisture " in the Distributor Cap! I made a Video here: ruclips.net/video/zWHvMYCItkE/видео.html
So it was misfiring while idling before?
My S10 is starting to misfire just a little bit when the engine is warmed up.
I know I have a vacuum leak so I'm going to fix that first and see then.
it was misfiring the whole time at any engine speed. Sounded terrible and barely ran. I got another video on here that I made before I fixed it and I talk about the misfire in more detail.
@@alexsbikesandmotors
Thank you for sharing.
Mine only misses a little bit and runs great so I'm assuming it's something else.
Definitely will keep an eye on the Cap though!