Dude that was the most well put together video I've ever seen good job! I've never thought about doing a top end till I saw you explain it in this video gave me confidence to attempt it. Thanks man 🤙
Great tutorial and well done on showing how to measure ring end gap I will never forget the day I didn’t and still feel the pain of when that brand new piston kit nipped up on first start
Thank you so much. I own a CBR600RR, but I always wanted a supermoto. Got a DRZ400 because of the low maintenance it requires. I ended up loving these bikes and now I want something for the mountain. I 've had my eye on MX bikes for quite some time now, but I 've always been skeptical about the maintenance. You just showed me that 2 strokes are, in fact, easy to maintain and you might have sold me on a YZ250. Or a YZ250X, almost the same bike. Immaculate 250 you 've got there, by the way.
Liam Jones honestly the ease of maintenance on them is one of their best attributes. Sure you may have to do it a bit more often, but parts are way cheaper, and you can do most of the work yourself. I was on four-strokes for a number of years racing, but came back to this and I don’t have one regret. Thanks for the comment!
Love the video mate defiantly will help for when I need to rebuild my 85 and 125 of. Also I think it is the first, first person top end rebuild on RUclips to my knowledge. Good video I'm sure it will help others aswell. Keep it up
By far the best video on RUclips about a yz 250 top end rebuild I have an 2021 yz 250x and it has detonation and spark knock I believe I’m gonna have to rebuild top end soon
Great video, like how you kept it simple, only thing was at the end of it, it made me curious to your break in strategy maybe add that in there real quick on the next one.
I have about 70 hours on my 2021 YZ250 and I am getting ready to do my very first top end on it. Do you prefer OEM piston or aftermarket? Also do the rings come with the pistons or do you have to purchase them separately?
What was to torque specs? I'm in the process of doing my first ever rebuild so don't know exactly what I'm doing but I'm pretty mechanically inclined but if you have a few tips for me I'd greatly appreciate it
great video.. i seen you using prestone coolant like i used to do but i got a digital temp gauge to keep on eye on temps and when i switched to ENGINE ICE coolant and added 1 oz of water wetter super coolant to the mix...no bullshit my bike runs almost 10 degrees cooler once fully warm and maintains peak power longer....and i kept the control factors all the same as in same plug..same day air temp and humidity ... same premix......etc etc... and im running 8 degrees cooler now...not so important with motocross as running 2 strokes hard actually keeps them much cooler but if on single track tight trails for extended periods of time that can def make the bike run alot hotter and eventually that heat stress will shorten motors life some but even though my yz is a 2010 its basically same bike.....SO YOU SHOULD HAVE SAME RESULTS......
I have heard good things about Engine Ice but I'm not sold on the price tag that comes along with it. Have never had overheating issues with my stuff and I'm hard on them. Ain't broke, don't fix it sort of thing for me
Dave Wilson oh crap, that would be a change- best of luck dude! I’m out in YXE, had a co-worker just leave us for a WJ spot in Edmonton. Aviation here is such a small world eh
paulsreef27 I didn’t for this time because the cylinder looked so damn good anyway. I’m religious when it comes to cleaning my air filters so it shows there. But in all reality a few quick passes with a hone isn’t gonna hurt it any
paulsreef27 i dont want to give any bad advice but i have over 150 hours on the top end of my yz 250x, thats doing single track tho and some hillclimbs, not riding moto
DO NOT put a stone hone like you'd use in a Chevy small block or other iron block engine in a plated cylinder. The surface hardness on a plated cylinder is ridiculous. Just clean it up with a scotch bright pad to get it clean. When the plating fails get it replated or buy a new cylinder. Don't put a normal 3 stone hone in it, you'll destroy it. It's too abrasive, it'll take the plating off... Then you'll be running an aluminum piston in and aluminum bore, with steel rings. Best case scenario you'll seize the engine and trash a piston and cylinder. Worst case you'll have to replace every engine part.
Ray Osteen I didn’t figure I needed to for a few reasons. Chiefly my bike doesn’t have spooge or much unburnt oil. I ride 90% at a sand track where that thing is working hard, and synthetic oil helps with reducing gumming of pvalves.
John Buckaloo yes, a cylinder should be evaluated every time it is removed. Check for bad scoring, nicks, and cracks. Shouldn’t need to be measured if its the first top end the bike has ever seen. Essentially a good visual should be the only thing required
@@turdpike thanks for the quick reply and awesome video's! Do you use OEM pistons or aftermarket? I've heard good and bad of aftermarket.. I'll plan on having my cylinder measured!
John Buckaloo I usually run aftermarket due to cost. Pro X or Vertex usually, I always run cast not forged. To each their own though, you can’t go wrong with any. Parts fail, maintenance is usually the culprit though
Good tutorial. Thanks. After watching it I now know I should have done my top end when I had to replace a busted radiator! What was your break-in procedure after the rebuild?
Thanks! Yes it’s really not hard. Everyone will tell you something different for break in, it’s dependant on a few factors. I only use cast pistons, and I typically do just say 3 heat cycles followed by light riding for a few minutes. Then I flog it like I would normally. Haven’t had any piston related failures yet
Something soft preferably, like aluminium or copper. Wouldn’t be the end of the world if you put steel, just not a great crush material for that application.
@@MrJeffharper47 Yes if using grease don’t drown it of course- but most aerosols are combustible so not much to worry about. No word of a lie I’ve actually run an engine on WD40 lol
You’re just checking the gap of the split in the ring when it is installed in the cylinder. Too much gap is bad, and too little is bad too, for different reasons. Very important to check it prior to buttoning the thing up. As far as where to get piston kits, that’ll depend where you’re from. If by chance you are Canuckistani like me I order Vertex piston kits from Fortnine.com typically
OGAstra thanks! It was my winter project last year. She was a roach but turned out beautiful. Never did any filming of the process, wish I had. Sold it a few months back.
@@adamkorb0749 hmm I’ve used it for many years and never had a problem.. they have a few different types I prefer the R50. I do however use maxima oil in my wr and I like it
I'm a dumbass... For years I've been taking the radiator plastics off before pulling the gas tank. Never thought about leaving them bolted to the tank.
Too many variables to list. Short answer is the bike lives mostly in the sand where I ride it quite hard. And I’d much rather change it out early over cracking a chunk of skirt off. The piston manufacturers and Yamaha manual want it done around 20hrs I believe.
@@turdpike would this vary between bikes for example a yz250f because i ordered one not to long ago and its not going to see any rev limiter track rips so what number of hours would be proper for a top end rebuild?
You'd have to be an idiot if you can't do this. I've done dozens of top end rebuilds on bikes I had no experience with. They all have basically only, 12,10,8 and 6mm bolts. It's incredibly easy. Bottom end is a little different, still not that hard. I don't have the press or jig to rebuild a crank. I just take my cranks to a bike shop that has the tools. They press it apart, replace the parts and true it. Put it back together. Get a manual this shit is easy.
Man you just put that cylinder on ovee the piston like nothing ive spent like 3 hours last night trying to get my cylinder over my piston rings still no luck
Start with the crank/piston at bottom dead centre and then slowly pull the piston up from there squeezing one ring at a time. You’ll get it man! Takes patience
Best YZ250 top end rebuild video i've seen on youtube. No bullshit. Everything you need to know. Thanks turdpike!
Steve Cobain thanks buddy!
About to pick up a YZ250X. Definitely saving this video for later.
RockGuitarist1 they are awesome bikes buddy, you’ll enjoy it
Dude that was the most well put together video I've ever seen good job! I've never thought about doing a top end till I saw you explain it in this video gave me confidence to attempt it. Thanks man 🤙
Thanks man! Live and learn, it’s not hard at all to do. If you have any issues along the way just message me and I can help out
Great tutorial and well done on showing how to measure ring end gap I will never forget the day I didn’t and still feel the pain of when that brand new piston kit nipped up on first start
What do you mean the piston nipped up?
@@lancehealey6734 motor seized due to ring end gap being too small
Thank you so much. I own a CBR600RR, but I always wanted a supermoto. Got a DRZ400 because of the low maintenance it requires. I ended up loving these bikes and now I want something for the mountain. I 've had my eye on MX bikes for quite some time now, but I 've always been skeptical about the maintenance. You just showed me that 2 strokes are, in fact, easy to maintain and you might have sold me on a YZ250. Or a YZ250X, almost the same bike. Immaculate 250 you 've got there, by the way.
Liam Jones honestly the ease of maintenance on them is one of their best attributes. Sure you may have to do it a bit more often, but parts are way cheaper, and you can do most of the work yourself. I was on four-strokes for a number of years racing, but came back to this and I don’t have one regret. Thanks for the comment!
Love the video mate defiantly will help for when I need to rebuild my 85 and 125 of. Also I think it is the first, first person top end rebuild on RUclips to my knowledge. Good video I'm sure it will help others aswell. Keep it up
Sam Irish29 MX thanks! That’s kinda what I figured too- something different than usual. I hope to make more similar ones soon
By far the best video on RUclips about a yz 250 top end rebuild I have an 2021 yz 250x and it has detonation and spark knock I believe I’m gonna have to rebuild top end soon
Thanks!!
Awesome video man. I'm about to perform this task next weekend and I'll be following along to this excellent info
Steve Cobain Glad I could help! It’s a piece of cake, you won’t have a problem 👍
Great video, like how you kept it simple, only thing was at the end of it, it made me curious to your break in strategy maybe add that in there real quick on the next one.
I’m a couple heat cycles then hold it wide open kind of guy
Dope 1st person view. Got ya self a new sub for that💪🏽
Nice job pretty good little tutorial.
Thanks dude this vid is really helpful
Holy crap, that was great! Thanks for making an excellent video!
Rocco N April thanks, glad it helped
thank you man this helped me alot
😘
I have about 70 hours on my 2021 YZ250 and I am getting ready to do my very first top end on it. Do you prefer OEM piston or aftermarket? Also do the rings come with the pistons or do you have to purchase them separately?
What was to torque specs? I'm in the process of doing my first ever rebuild so don't know exactly what I'm doing but I'm pretty mechanically inclined but if you have a few tips for me I'd greatly appreciate it
great video.. i seen you using prestone coolant like i used to do but i got a digital temp gauge to keep on eye on temps and when i switched to ENGINE ICE coolant and added 1 oz of water wetter super coolant to the mix...no bullshit my bike runs almost 10 degrees cooler once fully warm and maintains peak power longer....and i kept the control factors all the same as in same plug..same day air temp and humidity ... same premix......etc etc... and im running 8 degrees cooler now...not so important with motocross as running 2 strokes hard actually keeps them much cooler but if on single track tight trails for extended periods of time that can def make the bike run alot hotter and eventually that heat stress will shorten motors life some but even though my yz is a 2010 its basically same bike.....SO YOU SHOULD HAVE SAME RESULTS......
I have heard good things about Engine Ice but I'm not sold on the price tag that comes along with it. Have never had overheating issues with my stuff and I'm hard on them. Ain't broke, don't fix it sort of thing for me
How do you like those rear tires? Do they hook up well, I was looking into getting those same ones. Since I'm always riding in soft sand
jorge gomez so far so good, I ride in sand only too and that thing made a hell of a difference.
turdpike that's the Michelin StarCross 5 Sand Tire?
jorge gomez you got it, good eye!
turdpike thanks I'm defiantly buying now
saw that can of LPS contact cleaner and thought to myself, this guy must be an AME too ... checked your other vids and no surprise, aircraft! hahah
Dave Wilson lol ya good eye! Something not many other than us a would notice. What kind of rigs do you wrench on??
@@turdpike Worked on Helicopters for the last last 10 years or so but just recently started with WestJet out of YYZ for a better schedule.
Dave Wilson oh crap, that would be a change- best of luck dude! I’m out in YXE, had a co-worker just leave us for a WJ spot in Edmonton. Aviation here is such a small world eh
Thanks for the video, I also have a newish yz250 with under 40hrs, and I guess it's time. Do you not hone the cylinder, or is not really necessary?
paulsreef27 I didn’t for this time because the cylinder looked so damn good anyway. I’m religious when it comes to cleaning my air filters so it shows there. But in all reality a few quick passes with a hone isn’t gonna hurt it any
paulsreef27 i dont want to give any bad advice but i have over 150 hours on the top end of my yz 250x, thats doing single track tho and some hillclimbs, not riding moto
DO NOT put a stone hone like you'd use in a Chevy small block or other iron block engine in a plated cylinder. The surface hardness on a plated cylinder is ridiculous. Just clean it up with a scotch bright pad to get it clean. When the plating fails get it replated or buy a new cylinder. Don't put a normal 3 stone hone in it, you'll destroy it. It's too abrasive, it'll take the plating off... Then you'll be running an aluminum piston in and aluminum bore, with steel rings. Best case scenario you'll seize the engine and trash a piston and cylinder. Worst case you'll have to replace every engine part.
Great vid thanks! Also, that's the power valve breather, not the crankcase :p
That’s correct! Thanks!
just a question, how come you didnt take the power valve stuff out and clean it? didnt think it needed it? thanks
Ray Osteen I didn’t figure I needed to for a few reasons. Chiefly my bike doesn’t have spooge or much unburnt oil. I ride 90% at a sand track where that thing is working hard, and synthetic oil helps with reducing gumming of pvalves.
@@turdpike ok gotcha, that makes sense.
No need to check the cylinder? Just curious as I'm fixing to do a top end on my 16!
John Buckaloo yes, a cylinder should be evaluated every time it is removed. Check for bad scoring, nicks, and cracks. Shouldn’t need to be measured if its the first top end the bike has ever seen. Essentially a good visual should be the only thing required
@@turdpike thanks for the quick reply and awesome video's! Do you use OEM pistons or aftermarket? I've heard good and bad of aftermarket.. I'll plan on having my cylinder measured!
John Buckaloo I usually run aftermarket due to cost. Pro X or Vertex usually, I always run cast not forged. To each their own though, you can’t go wrong with any. Parts fail, maintenance is usually the culprit though
Clean bike!
DennisK thanks, she’s my baby
Amazing video. Thank you
You have the stock clutch on there? tripping out about how easy it looked to pull it in lol
Yup stock clutch, properly lubed/adjusted cable and clutch hinge and it should be that easy!
Good tutorial. Thanks. After watching it I now know I should have done my top end when I had to replace a busted radiator! What was your break-in procedure after the rebuild?
Thanks! Yes it’s really not hard. Everyone will tell you something different for break in, it’s dependant on a few factors. I only use cast pistons, and I typically do just say 3 heat cycles followed by light riding for a few minutes. Then I flog it like I would normally. Haven’t had any piston related failures yet
@@turdpike That's great info. Thanks!
Hey! Are you able to use steel washers on the cylinder head putting it back on or do you need copper? Thanks
Something soft preferably, like aluminium or copper. Wouldn’t be the end of the world if you put steel, just not a great crush material for that application.
@@turdpike ahhh alright thank you
Bruh!! Great Tutorial!!! Thanks what year is that YZ its super clean...
Thanks man! It’s a 2016
What kind of oil did you put on the carb boot to make it fit a little easier? 2-stroke oil I’m guessing?
2 stroke oil, grease, silicone lube, wd40. Something a little wet!
@@turdpike I’m guessing not too much as it wouldn’t be good for it to get into the carb when it’s running?
@@MrJeffharper47 Yes if using grease don’t drown it of course- but most aerosols are combustible so not much to worry about. No word of a lie I’ve actually run an engine on WD40 lol
@@turdpike do what???? An engine running on WD40?? That’d be a good video!
Can you explain the piston ring gap once again? Also, where do you recommend getting a new top end kit, not including gaskets. Thanks!
You’re just checking the gap of the split in the ring when it is installed in the cylinder. Too much gap is bad, and too little is bad too, for different reasons. Very important to check it prior to buttoning the thing up. As far as where to get piston kits, that’ll depend where you’re from. If by chance you are Canuckistani like me I order Vertex piston kits from Fortnine.com typically
Why do you measure ring end gap? What should you do if it’s not to spec?
Is it necessary to take off the power valve? or can the cylinder come off with it intact? Thanks!
The linkage has to be disconnected yes. Removing the power valve assembly itself, no
Do you have to bleed the coolant or run it with the rad cap off?
I do that yes, for the first couple minutes of run time. And shake the bike around
@@turdpike ok thank you for the quick response
see how fast You can do a top end between moto's on a 2 stroke for a fraction of the cost
Clean rm 125!
OGAstra thanks! It was my winter project last year. She was a roach but turned out beautiful. Never did any filming of the process, wish I had. Sold it a few months back.
turdpike love the oem look! gonna do it with mine.
OGAstra have you done the updated front number plate and front fender yet? That’s another must I would say, makes the bike look way more modern
Hey what oil mixture do you think would be best for me I ride the roads sometimes and I’m in the trails sometimes
What might be the measurement for the ring gap
.016”-.022” ish is a normal range
What kit are you using bro?
Vertex, cast
@@turdpike Thanks brother appreciate it
Where can I find new parts for these 1996 models? I have searched all over.
Reply
No where
Klotz is my fav too❤️
klotz sucks everything i run it in is fouls the plug in run maxima superm you will never have to rebuild a 250
@@adamkorb0749 hmm I’ve used it for many years and never had a problem.. they have a few different types I prefer the R50. I do however use maxima oil in my wr and I like it
You’re doing something wrong if you’re fouling plugs.
@@turdpike doing something wrong by running klotz
@@adamkorb0749 hah, ok bro... You do you...
I'm a dumbass... For years I've been taking the radiator plastics off before pulling the gas tank. Never thought about leaving them bolted to the tank.
Ya man! Saves 30 seconds! And makes kind of a nice stand for the gas tank to set it on level ground
Why are you doing it so early at 36 hours! Isn't the average rebuild time at like 60?
Too many variables to list. Short answer is the bike lives mostly in the sand where I ride it quite hard. And I’d much rather change it out early over cracking a chunk of skirt off. The piston manufacturers and Yamaha manual want it done around 20hrs I believe.
@@turdpike would this vary between bikes for example a yz250f because i ordered one not to long ago and its not going to see any rev limiter track rips so what number of hours would be proper for a top end rebuild?
Again, still a lot of variables but 250f’s are pretty high strung. 50hrs should be enough
You'd have to be an idiot if you can't do this. I've done dozens of top end rebuilds on bikes I had no experience with. They all have basically only, 12,10,8 and 6mm bolts. It's incredibly easy. Bottom end is a little different, still not that hard. I don't have the press or jig to rebuild a crank. I just take my cranks to a bike shop that has the tools. They press it apart, replace the parts and true it. Put it back together. Get a manual this shit is easy.
Fuckyou sure is!
Fuckyou Huh. then why are you on this video?
@@cameronmartens1809 Lmao for real. Talk about an egotistical twat.
Man you just put that cylinder on ovee the piston like nothing ive spent like 3 hours last night trying to get my cylinder over my piston rings still no luck
Start with the crank/piston at bottom dead centre and then slowly pull the piston up from there squeezing one ring at a time. You’ll get it man! Takes patience
I want to sell my 2019 250 2 stroke how much do you guys think I could get for it?
Ring end gap??
Sean Collins yes- ring end gap is exactly as it sounds. Put the rings in the cylinder and measure how big the gap is where the 2 ends of the ring meet
That’s it?! I was going to pay someone to do this
Lol no, that’s it man. It really is easy
@@turdpike this is fuel injected right?
No, carbureted
turdpike is it harder to do the top end on a fuel injected bike?
Has nothing to do with a top end, carb/fuel injection are both just a means of delivering fuel