Mounting the DIY Metal Lathe Bed Ways | DIY Gingery Lathe Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
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Okay, Paul. Bear with me because you’re stepping into the world of machining. Everything is about to change. No surface in your house will ever look flat again and every single object around you is about to become a spring. It’s okay. I call it the journey to machinist Shan gri la. Just for the experience scribe two parallel lines on a piece of stock and mark points at the same increments with a mechanical pencil and and a scribe, One marking tool for each parallel. Then, using a magnifying glass, stare in horror as the pencil lines get farther and farther away from the scribe lines and absorb the dread that comes with marking anything with a sharpie. Soon the surface plate, Height gage and 1-2-3 blocks will become your most beloved tools. Make no mistake. The drill press IS a machine tool. Master the art of pecking for chip breaking and applying cutting fluid periodically. Also WD40 displaces your way oil.
Pecking dramatically reduces the life of your cutting tools. Long curly dangerous swarf FTW. Back out and relube if you get on the hot side and before softening the tool steel. Otherwise I identify with your straight flat square obsession comments :-)
Can you explain surface plate, height gauge and 1-2-3 blocks to me like I'm 10?
@@miceskin Like you’re 10, eh? I’ll try. It’s not an exaggeration to say that no surface in your home will look flat anymore. Once I had a good flat reference to check stuff against I would shine a flashlight behind the flat edge and see light in the gaps. My kitchen counter had a bunch of shallow dished features and high points and I had always thought that surface was flat. A surface plate is a genuinely flat surface and it’s a very rare thing. The height gage and the 1-2-3 blocks are tools that make the surface plate usable for scribing lines. The stock you want to mark get’s backed by the 1-2-3 blocks to assure the piece you are scribing is perpendicular to the surface plate and the height gage is used to scribe the lines parallel to surface plate plane. Now you said “like you’re 10”, and the more I look at this the more I think I failed… These three tools are a team that let you mark and measure very specific lines on an object just by turning the object on It’s side. I hope that helps.
Yay, progress on the lathe! Happy dance! Feel better soon, Paul. Thanks for cranking out a video, even while ill. You are a trooper!
yeahhhh slow that countersink waaaayyy down. thats the best way to get rid of that chatter. Also, center drills are super handy for getting a precise start on a hole! Remember, that bit of precision in the beginning, counts way more when you are 4 steps down the line! good work so far! been following this project for a while. :)
PS, as a fellow ADHDer, get a small drill bit, drill a hole in your chuck key, and put a wire fishing leader line attached to that. Attach the other end to the drill press. And you will not lose it agian. I promise you this will change your life. Your grandkids will talk to you again, your berry bushes will flourish, you will find quarters on the sidewalk instead of pennies. It is worth it.
I quit center drills for millwork a long time ago, now I use spotter bits if it's critical, otherwise I use screw machine drills, short and very little deflection, or choke up in the chuck.
A rare earth magnet on the drill press to hold the chuck key is also a good idea, but yeah, if it's tethered, that's helpful as well.
One consideration, if you need put together two pieces that intend to be very precise, consider use a mix of Portland cement and two compounds epoxy resin, between the two pieces, it provide a good contact point with low distortion factor
Uncured portland cement is corrosive. A better alternative mix is silica dust "sand" + epoxy resin.
I am patiently waiting for the next video! This lathe series is great. Makes me want to build one
Using zamak on Gingery lathe is a great idea and something I always wanted to do. So glad to see someone else is actually making it. Hoping it's a masterpiece - good luck and God's speed.
Those drill press keys walk away while your not looking so I keep a spare in solitary confinement.
Put a magnet somewhere on your drill, then put the key back every time. Also: paint it with bright enamel (or nail polish) so it's easier to find/harder to lose.
Love your Gingery lathe updates.
Thanks! hopefully i'll get it finished this time
There’s a bit called a center drill. They come in sizes #1-#6. Maybe bigger. For precision drilling u should use this before drilling. It won’t wobble.
This can not be overstated. However if his drill press is as loose as he says he'll still have issues. I have a beautiful Fobco Star with loose bearings that I need to freshen up that is like this and I own and use centre drills.
Oh my god, Paul, that drill press is less rigid than my third leg looking at photos of Hillary Clinton. Consider finding a good used American one and freshening it up.
@@fredio54 Center drills are overstated and outdated. Use a hole-starting bit. The problem is not the drill press. The problem is that you need a deep enough spot for the center of the drill to land. The center of the drill doesn't really cut---it cold forms and extrudes the material. So when you start a drill on a flat surface, lots of pressure is needed. If the drill is small, it will wander.
Center drills are intended for creating center holes in a workpiece for turning between centers on a lathe. They work, but a proper spotting drill works better
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Find the books here:
amzn.to/3KztaSR (large one)
amzn.to/3zVWgHe (small one)
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Brass screws add a nice touch. Anxious to see more.
My milling machine has turcite strips glued to the underneath of the saddle. I replaced them when they wore out with 1mm teflon strips cut out of a sheet. Has lasted for years with moderate CNC use. Something to think about.
Pretty good idea with the Teflon! I thought the brass looked cool. That's my only reason for doing it lol but they do look cool. I want to cast some parts in bronze as well, especially the hand crank knobs and bearing caps and stuff
Flat head steel grade 12 socket caps are far better and industry standard.. Brass can stretch easily.
Perseverance saves the day 👍👍😎👍👍
Can't wait to see the next installment in 10 years! I say jesting... I hope...
Lol In 10 years I'll be on attempt #4 to finish this thing 🤣
@@PaulsGarage at least you have the tenacity!
Gingery also had a nice drill press project. I would make that too :)
That drill press is definitely crunchy!
PROGRESS! It fought you all the way, but you did get there! 🎉
No stopping this time! I want a lathe lol
I used too lose the chuck key until I put it on a chain connected to the drill press.
Bed looks good and bravo not breaking the tap in the gummy zinc.
Check out single flute countersinks. Better results in metal IMO. And slow it down as others have said. :D
Total amateur here but you're gonna wanna pick up the low and slow method for machining since your machines will lack the size, strength and rigidity for fast feeds and high speeds. This holds for most machining operations, so your drilling operations would be better served following along these lines. Its critical to maintain the precision and accuracy you want/need out of what you are building. Every error/mistake will compound on each other making calibration hell on earth. With careful practice, technique and focus, you will be able to accomplish quite complex features when the machines get completed. Its really cool that you are already focusing on qualities of materials. Its often an afterthought until you run into projects where its necessary. This should help you avoid some pitfalls later. If you stick with it, yes your garage will soon be the fuller.
I appreciate your dedication. Although it's a useless inquiry.
To each his own but I'm not understanding why people are building these. I see nice little Atlss and Logan lathes on marketplace for 500.
Do you intend on making more on this project? This is all i wanna do this year haha bought the books and going down a deep rabit hole
yes! my next video is on this project. casting the feed. I modified them to be cooler looking and hold up the massive headstock better. The feet in the book are a bit small. I'm also going to use a cool sand casting technique i've never shown before
@@PaulsGarage you gotta drop a way to contact you so i can start on mine soon ahha need a few pointers
Holy cow! I'm a long-time machinist and I'd be happy to provide a basic boot camp training session. I'd start with basic speeds & feeds - it's pretty simple and would improve your machining results quite a lot (even a drill press is "machining" of course).
Thanks! If you have tips join the discord, that's usually where I put questions. In this case though my drill press is kinda crap, if I slow it down it will just stop when the bit hits the metal. It's sloppy too. It's a super cheap one from the 70's I think. Good ol' Montgomery Wards.
Me too, not gonna lie, this was painful. No offense dude, we all start out the same.
Read the mill book and follow those instructions. The mill is just a latch with extra attachments and gingery did a better design there.
Also, put some magnets on your chuck key!
Sir, a like where did you find that drill press. Like go got a real drill press and give that other thing to someone you don’t like.😢
Even the crap at harbor fright would be better. Also the mounted on a stand Mental band saw would be a big help in this project.
Good luck😮
I’m not putting these vids down, but why not buy a lathe that requires reconditioning? It would work out better, and in the long run cheaper. I know it’s great to say you built it. But restoring a lathe is the way to go. I rebuilt five lathes, Little John,Myford, Atlas, Drummond,and a watchmakers lathe. I actually thought of building one of these Gingery lathes but after doing some sums,decided to recondition a lathe. The first one, the Atlas was a heap. But it allowed me to rebuild the Drummond. And the Drummond allowed me to rebuild the Atlas. And from there the Drummond was the work horse for rebuilding the others. Happy days, now live in a fifth floor flat. Boy I miss my workshop.
What even is that drill press? I am a little bit worried about the steel and zamak vibrating against each other, but I only know wood lathes, maybe this one won't be subject to that kind of vibration.
Damn. You sound exhausted.
You're not wrong lol
You have a ways to go?
You have a ways to make videos?
you are showing us the ways to get stuff done?
I'm in the right place. I also hate my puns too, so I'll see myself out at the end of the video too.
I SPOTTED THE ERROR 😂 oh i have made the same error so many times 😅
I've had terrible luck with those countersinks in metal. Single or "zero" flute are now my go to. Seem to handle much nicer in non rigid setups like in wonky drill presses and hand drills
I think "wonky" is an understatement lol. I haven't tried any other countersinks, maybe I'll experiment a bit
Need to run multiflute chamfer bits in a mill locked in position and much lower RPM. If a bit is chattering it's turning too fast. 46 year machinist here.
Use a Dremel instead of a scraper its easer when surface scraping.
"Finally a bit of luck", was the pun intended?
no but i'll take it anyway!
Paul located right near you. You prob haven't heard of me. " I own sun mechanical" in footville wi. Across the nursing home. I'd love to show you our fully automated sheet metal fab shops. We mass produce duct work. Up to 50k pounds of duct per day at times. Guarantee nothing like you've ever seen. I know the bussiness you and your pops own. Your trucks are marked aren't we only do industrial and gov work. Large scale hvac projects. We've done work even states far as arizona
mmm gingery.
You only broke a little bit off that bit. You can sharpen it back up.
Slow down there, big dog. This isn't This Old Tony.
@@donbrewer6865 sharpening drill bits isn't that hard to do. You could probably do it on a concrete sidewalk if you really had to. Personally I use a dressed bench grinder myself though. That makes it even easier. There certainly are some tricks to doing it. Sharpening twist drills is definitely a skill worth developing. It is nice to always have sharp bits.
@1pcfred I'm fully aware. I sharpen my own too. I just like making shit jokes.
Hey, let's use brass bolts instead of steel. It's only weaker, but it will work
Lower the speed, get a new bit. Great to see you working on it, again.
Thanks for the tip! I think I need a better drill press too. If I turn the speed down it doesn't have enough power, it just stops 😂
Counter sinks are especially prone to chatter if run too fast.
If it's stupid and it works, it's still stupid and you're lucky.
Then again: Skill is just getting used to being lucky. :D
That drill press... Ive spent forever dealing with garbage presses and ghetto stuff.. upgrading to a chineesium press was the greatest thing ive ever done, upgrading from the chineesium to a good chineesium one.. even better idea ive ever had.
save your sanity, make and ghetto everything else... but buy a drill press that doesnt wobble....
I think you are definitely right. It's hard to drill a straight hole when my drill press refuses to stay straght!
@@PaulsGarage That's not very LGBTQ friendly requiring it to stay straight... 😜
It would have been better to scrape the steel instead of the casting, since that will be the actual bearing surface.
The surface of the casting is very uneven it can have significant hollows, high spots, and twist. If not made flat the steel plate will conform to the irregularities when screwed down. Aluminum is vastly easier to scrape than steel!
The point of the gingery lathe is cold rolled steel is available for cheap and it is very flat. Thus you don't need to scrape it. You need to scrap the bed a little,but the goal is just support the steel.
@@henrymiller1820 That stock looks like precision ground O-1 oil harden. Thats not 1018 cold roll.
When laying out bolt centers divide the overall distance by the number of spaces not the number of bolts.
22÷8=2.75 = 18 bolts on 2.75 centers.
22÷7=3.1429 = 16 bolts on 3.1429 centers.
The first bolt in at 0 location so you only need the number of spaces from 0.
Please don't use wd40 to tap anything. It's called wd40 because it's WATER DISPLACEMENT. The word water should tell you something. Always use Oil to tap, drill or anything to do with metal. NO wd40, Just throw that to the back of you cabinet. Oil! even motor oil is fine.
good tip! i have plenty of motor oil leaking out all over my garage, will be easy to grab next time
Multi-flute csink + high rpm = chatter
Multi-flute csink + steel = chatter
Chatter + chatter = lots of chatter
I think chatter compounds exponentially lol
Shit show: full of frustration-sounds right. Life dictates you will have 2 thousand things all of which either can't be found till you bought new ones or are as close to working without working sending you to 15 stores to find the right one.
Because the full version is mathematics - so when we shorten it we keep the form. :-p 'merica! :-D
I always love it when people get on an American designed computer, running American software, accessing an American created internet to access an American website full of Americans to make light of America lol
@@KingfishStevens-di9ji on a Korean designed and Vietnam built computer, Finnish operating system, internationally created and maintained internet, American website, with truly global user base.
@@fredio54 modern day ''IBM'' computer designed at U of Penn, internet created at UC Berkley, windows OS created by Bill Gates and others, all Americans, Google/RUclips an American company. We Americans are congenial in allowing the world to participate. ''Finnish operating systems?? Lol
@@KingfishStevens-di9ji This appears to be a waste of time, but: Not an IBM nor IBM compatible if you're old enough to know what that means. Windows is a third class OS that I would never willingly use. You listed where the Internet was founded, the internet as we know it today was created and is maintained by 200+ countries.
@@fredio54 in other words, you don't know. Waste of time responding to you..
they say "maths" because math is short for "Mathematics" which has an 's' on the end.
That makes sense
Also because it's a family of many disciplines, There is no single math, take quaternions for example.
If you're shortening a word, make it what ya want. Their ''pants'' are our ''underwear''. They call a flashlight a ''torch'', not sure what they call a torch.
The reason us Brits put an "S" on maths is because we invented 'em. We also invented computers, aeroplanes and knees. I think knees are our best invention yet. I have a pair that have been in the family many, many years. You could say they have been handed down, but being knees I think the correct term is kneeded down.
The lathe is coming along nicely, will you have to buy any extra machinery to finish the job?
Maths, not math, as mathematics, not mathematic
Why do English (and the rest of the english speaking world) put an 's' on the end of math? You are doing mathematics, not mathematic. So the shortened version also has an s, hence maths.
flat-ish.
The British put an S on maths because we invented words. Its not our fault you have difficulties using them correctly
I think the British say math's because it's a grouping of different things. Americans don't because....we're superior?
Americans and our clearly world leading math skills? 🤣
@MrBLions14 You sure about that.... 😜
Your speeds are way wrong, thats half the problem, theres online charts yiu can look up for cutting speeds of drills per size to material, same with drills mills lathes.
2 your drill press is vibrating around the table 😂 , yeah not great resonance while cutting metal there 😂.
3 bad drill bits, your drills are sharper on one side more than the other causing them to wander.
4 get some cutting coolant, theres no excuse to not use it then say um derrr why my drills not cut right? 😂 and give me uneven wear and chatter..
5 tap dont come in a single piece set, single piece taps are to replace the broken one from your 3 peice tap set, a tap set has 3 taps the starter tap, the through tap and the finishing/bottoming tap, use all 3 in order and your threads dont gum up or gaul and you wont be over working the tap to snap it..
So basically, just use the tools the way they are designed to be used instead of just damaging them like a monkey 😂 and things start working properly.😂
And my statement still stands, in todays day and age you are doing yourself a huge disservice following gingeries methods they are for farmers 60 years ago with no tooling.. just use todays tools and take advantage of getting some parts machined for you like the slide for $40 at a local machine shop, then at the end you will say damn im glad i spent 1000 hrs buildi g this acurate lathe instead of saying man i wish the lathe that i spent 1200 hrs building was accurate enough to machine something....
My understanding is that the biggest part of building the lathe is learning skills. A person could work part time at Walmart around their full time job to save up for a commercial machine, but that is a miserable time compared to building your own machine.
@@blazunlimited obviously.. thats why its worth building a working one not an ornamental one
@@4kays160 From what I have seen of Gingery lathes, they work well enough for a home hobby machine shop like Paul’s. A Harbour Freight mini lathe isn’t so great right out of the box either.
Always good to see some more gingery lathe vids.
More to come! Casting the feet next and I'm going to do some different casting techniques for that one
Feeds and speeds. Slow down that countersink and it will sound better. Machining will teach you to be more conscientiousness. Can't wait to see the next episode!
Those multiflute chamfer bits shouldn't even be sold, the only way they'll work is locked in position in a mill. Buy single flutes.
brah, wd-40 is not good for cutting fluid. Just get a bottle of tap magic that will last you 40years. It's awesome.
Because it's 'mathematics', not 'mathematic'.
And, we didn't put the 's' on - you lot took it off! 🤣🙄
"Why do British people put an 's' on the end of "math"?"
Why do you put a 't' on the end of 'across'?
Won't there be galvanic corrosion between the steel plate and the ZA base?
Your videos are way fun (see what I did there?) played at 1.5x.
There's a tool called a thread pitch gauge.
Shiny
The speed you are drilling and chamfering with seem way to high. A punch or centering bit will help. You might want to switch to hex or torx head for the future.
yeah part of that is this weak drill press. if i turn down the speed, the bit will just stop as soon as it starts cutting into the metal
YOOOOO ANOTHER GINGERY LATHE EPISODE
LET'S GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
The moral of the story? Every year a project goes incomplete = an additional trip to the hardware store. Good thing I like the hardware store. 😂
Sounds like i'll be going to the hardware store an awful lot!
Hell yeah ! Progress !
Glad to see this going, good luck on the castings.
Thanks!