Regarding the loose shrank center pin fix, pardon me if I'm wrong but don't you think you destroy hence a precious link between 3 materials : the felt, the glue and the wood ? I prefer to use one needle from a voice tool and to jab at strategic points to swell the felt until I reach the number of swings.
That is similar to what I do, press firmly with the tip of a Manino broach and work the pressure in a circle around the entry point. No. With well-glued cloth, no harm is done. Harm is done loosening using the rough part of the broach, which tears the cloth's wool fibers. For both the loosening and the tightening, working the parts to stabilize is important. Much harder to stabilize the tears of broach-loosened cloth than the press of pressure-tightening. My method may not be advisable with partially glued bushings.
@@chrisbrownrpt Thks for those precisions. Just to be clear, you mentionned using the rough part of the broach is harmful for the felt. The goal being to expand the felt and to make the felt denser all around the pin broach when you work and to not tear the fibers. But the Manino's broaches have two rough sections : from the tip of the broach (small conical rough area of .5mm long) and near of the handle (large rough section of 12.5mm long). Not sure to understand how we can prevent damage to the felt using a rough broach tip. You can feel the rough tip area rubbing your nail on it it has the same friction/roughness than the large area one.
@@aeroseb1 For tightening I use the tip plus pressure in the cloth. I do not use the rough part for loosening if I can avoid it because it tears the cloth making it hard to stabilize.
1- you work the 2 extremities of the center pin felt or one side only ? 2-what's the Manino broach number you pick for best efficiency ? 3- How this technic works with the season changes ? thank you
@@aeroseb1 1- I do work both sides of the shank and I choose the same side of the bushing for each round: with shank hanging from flange, 6 o'clock on both sides or 12:00 both sides or 3:00 one side to 9:00 on the other. 2- I use the tip only, so it doesn't matter which broach you choose - it's the shape of the point that is just right for causing the wool fibers to tighten and increase friction around the center pin. 3- The cloth-bushed center pin hole is self-compensating (key bushings are another example of piano action use of this dynamic). The hole expands as the cloth expands with increases in humidity, maintaining a consistent friction when the right thickness cloth vs size of hole and properties of wood were chosen for the bushing. And vice versa for less humidity. The holes expand and shrink to different degrees with grain direction, so the effect is approximate. And glue adhesion and type of glue affect the balance. Also, the addition of graphite in the cloth, concentrations of which coupled with high humidity and inactivity can cause individual bushings to seize up.
Regarding the loose shrank center pin fix, pardon me if I'm wrong but don't you think you destroy hence a precious link between 3 materials : the felt, the glue and the wood ? I prefer to use one needle from a voice tool and to jab at strategic points to swell the felt until I reach the number of swings.
That is similar to what I do, press firmly with the tip of a Manino broach and work the pressure in a circle around the entry point. No. With well-glued cloth, no harm is done. Harm is done loosening using the rough part of the broach, which tears the cloth's wool fibers. For both the loosening and the tightening, working the parts to stabilize is important. Much harder to stabilize the tears of broach-loosened cloth than the press of pressure-tightening. My method may not be advisable with partially glued bushings.
@@chrisbrownrpt Thks for those precisions. Just to be clear, you mentionned using the rough part of the broach is harmful for the felt. The goal being to expand the felt and to make the felt denser all around the pin broach when you work and to not tear the fibers. But the Manino's broaches have two rough sections : from the tip of the broach (small conical rough area of .5mm long) and near of the handle (large rough section of 12.5mm long). Not sure to understand how we can prevent damage to the felt using a rough broach tip. You can feel the rough tip area rubbing your nail on it it has the same friction/roughness than the large area one.
@@aeroseb1 For tightening I use the tip plus pressure in the cloth. I do not use the rough part for loosening if I can avoid it because it tears the cloth making it hard to stabilize.
1- you work the 2 extremities of the center pin felt or one side only ?
2-what's the Manino broach number you pick for best efficiency ?
3- How this technic works with the season changes ? thank you
@@aeroseb1
1- I do work both sides of the shank and I choose the same side of the bushing for each round: with shank hanging from flange, 6 o'clock on both sides or 12:00 both sides or 3:00 one side to 9:00 on the other.
2- I use the tip only, so it doesn't matter which broach you choose - it's the shape of the point that is just right for causing the wool fibers to tighten and increase friction around the center pin.
3- The cloth-bushed center pin hole is self-compensating (key bushings are another example of piano action use of this dynamic). The hole expands as the cloth expands with increases in humidity, maintaining a consistent friction when the right thickness cloth vs size of hole and properties of wood were chosen for the bushing. And vice versa for less humidity. The holes expand and shrink to different degrees with grain direction, so the effect is approximate. And glue adhesion and type of glue affect the balance. Also, the addition of graphite in the cloth, concentrations of which coupled with high humidity and inactivity can cause individual bushings to seize up.