With this knot and the the improved trucker’s hitch, I can literally secure my canoe in seconds and without a lot of back and forth. I’ll never use commercial straps again, thanks for this game changer!
If you pinch a bite instead of the bitter end, you would make it a quick release, plus I’d imagine the buckle would bind a little stronger. Great video, thanks!
@@yousifucv Fold the "buckle" into a bight and pass that bight through leaving the bitter end pointing back towards the knot. A tug on the bitter end will now release it.
Good idea. Doubling the buckle would make it harder to slip through. The only concern I'd have is if the knot was pulled tight, pulling the bight on the buckle through might not be such a quick release. You might want to leave more bitter end so you can give it a yank.
I have tested this in the last week, and i will swallow my pride and state it far surpassed what i thought it could take. In fact it didnt fail, and untied with two fingers. I dragged 2 tonnes of onion and water 40 feet on a dry bed trailier....i am impressed to say the least and bow down to the functionality of this....i will be using it more often.
This is crazy amazing and simple, I've added a simple overhand stopper knot right at the end of the bitter which helped lock it. So many uses so little time
I've been using this knot every day since this video was uploaded. Thanks!!! I had about 2 fathoms of a thick nylon cord, leftovers from a drawstring bag that got pulverized. The cords were wasting space for about 1 year until this knot helped me turn them into quick-tie & -release straps to add to my bands for resistance training.
I saw it in your tarp video, and I was amazed. I have on in my pocket at all times, with an 8 knot at the free end. That seems perfect with a constant tension, but it may open when the line is pushed then pulled, try to wiggle vigorously.
Love this, thank you! I’ve been trying to figure out a good knot to carry my target stands together and this is it! Also for those who want a little additional security, you can wrap the working end under itself between the two loops to create a sheet bend. Still easy to untie without a load.
This looks like the solution I've been looking for to secure cable bundles in a way that can be added to over time, and I can expect coworkers to open instead of cutting. It has a lead out the back for securing to something, I can do that overwrap on the tip of the bitter end in a larger cord so it's a stopper (these bundles aren't much of a load to engage the locking)
I could see this being the basis of a "Remote Release Knot", where you lower, say, a tool box with a two ropes. One is a thick rope that holds the load with the Venus Fly Trap Hitch, while a thinner, longer cord is tied to the bitter end. Once the load is down on the ground, you tug on the smaller cord and the trap comes loose!
Maybe by looping the bitter end to make it quick release, then you tie your release cord to that end and when you need to undo the buckle you just need a tug
@@packmanbp you’d need two cords in that case, and a decently weighted object to pull against, otherwise the object would be lifted when pulling the release cord and possibly breaking it
@@pedroclaro7822 That's the point of this "remote release" idea, just tying a length of T1 paracord to the place where you need to pull to release the knot you can safely lower your stuff and release it when it touches ground, without the need for someone that understands knots on the other end
Anything is possible, but adding a stopper would help prevent the end from backing out. Or you can leave the bitter end much longer and finish with a couple of half-hitches back behind the post. This knot requires no precision to set up, the loops can be any amount larger than needed, and a longer bitter end is as easily made as a short one is, and the knot works just as well. Very satisfying to play around with.
0:50 That's the French bowline. The Portuguese bowline be is very similar but in this case the first loop of the working end doesn't go through the loop of the bowline but it's trapped by the 'walking around the tree' movement of working end in the last part of the knot. Thanks for the video. It's a very imaginative way to use these bowline variants.
I would have said French or Portuguese bowline, having thought they were alternative names for the same knot, as given in ABOK 1072. I've never seen this use of it before and I agree it's stunningly innovative.
Note: quick experiments show that the bowline on a bight and Spanish bowline can also be adapted in this way, with one of the ends left short to serve as the "buckle". These may not require the extra turns to make them secure for heavy loads.
2 of the mods you've displayed do have names. The one you began with is the French bowline, EXTREMELY similar to the Portuguese bowline which does NOT pass the working end through the knot twice to capture its 2nd loop, instead capturing it with the finish around the standing end. Next, doubling up the knot is just a Double bowline. I'm not sure if the round turn you used in the end has a name as a bowline, but adding a round turn to the finish of a normal bowline makes it look neat on the front side; the back has the round turn covering up the bowline's iconic triangle. Altogether, you've made a round turn double French bowline.
Do you have a source for the bowline being French and Portuguese? The bowline was described in, A Sea Grammar, by English explorer Cpt. John Smith in 1627
@@JBplumbing12 I didn't say they were the same. Structurally, they're different, but functionally, they're the same. I'm only using images online on how each are tied. French (F): When making the 1st loop, you pass the working end through the initial loop in the standing end just like in the video. Portuguese (P): When making the 1st loop, you leave the working end outside/in front of the initial loop in the standing end. Both bowlines are completed the same way, but you'll notice in the P that the initial loop in the standing end is BETWEEN the loops on the right side of the knot while the F has them both UNDER the initial loop. The P makes it obvious which line you can use to adjust the loops. When you take both apart by undoing the bite, the P will fall apart while the F has to have the line taken out through the initial loop, otherwise you'll be left with an overhand knot. Unless you can take out the standing end first, P is always faster. Personally, I prefer the P since it's slightly faster to tie, comes undone faster either way, and makes it obvious which line needs to be used to adjust the loops.
@@zecuse Thankyou for your detailed reply. It can be very difficult describing knots and you described them very well. I apologise, I should have done an image search on the P and F bowlines and educated myself prior to asking you. I have now looked them up visually. It is interesting how many varieties of bowline there are.
The French Bowline, also known as the Portuguese Bowline, is also very similar to the Bowline On A Bight**. The Bowline On A Bight is another knot that forms two reliable loops that can be used as a Bosun's Chair, I find the Eskimo bowline good for this. On another note, have your heard of the VooDoo hitch which is used in fire / rescue but can be used to strap down things with a ton of force due to the nature of the mechanical advantage.
It really isn't much like the inline bowline or bowline in a bight. Firstly because of where & hoops loops are created & interact, but mre importantly bc an inline bowline doesn't slip the way traditional ones do & can take load from all 3 directions.
This is absolutely genius, and very satisfying to play around with. It just works so well, requires no precision really, and a longer bitter end allows you to finish with half-hitches if you really need it to hold. Seems a great way to tie off a dog leash, and gives you a double handle to hold when walking. Just a thought. Also maybe has applications in cold weather, where you set it up once, and then can re-apply it with numb hands, or gloves on.
This is awesome, and I look forward to mastering and using this setup. I feel like the bitter end should have a stopper knot. Clearly it works without it, but mines gonna have one anyways 😉
I would have thought a sufficient modification would be to just feed through 3 loops instead of two and pull the middle one tight? This seemed to solve the problem for me but I don't have your comprehensive test setup. Great videos, thanks!
It looks like it could fall apart unless you keep tension on it. Maybe you could pass a bight through, and then pass the end through the bight? It would take two pulls to release instead of one, but it would be less likely to come open.
That's a pretty neat and nifty not looks to have some real world applications like that of a truckers hitch or combined with the truckers hitch can't wait to put it to work nice presentation on the various ways it works with the different rope sizes
That was a cool test and machine. Perhaps you could demonstrate the thing about rope supposedly being weaker if it's wet, knotted, or dirty and to what degree. I'm also curious about the strength difference between paracord in various conditions, like how tight the outside vs inside relates to strength. Also, because it's supposedly used for breakaway links to deploy military parachutes when the guts are removed and the jumper reaches the end of his static line, I was wondering how strong a loop of gutless paracord is. There is a military urban legend about a jumpmaster - who had beef with one of the people jumping - used two loops of (possibly gutless) breakaway 550 cord instead of the normal 1 loop, and this was said to not break away, and the fella was left bouncing against the side of the aircraft... with unfavorable results.
I'm looking for a knot to secure appliance cord. The idea is the string remains attached to the cord. With the cord coiled, bring the standing and working ends together then tighten. I've tried several ideas. I wonder if you've found something you like.
Traditionally, it is pronounced bowlin. Neat idea, I’ll have to give it a try. I wonder if it would work with a bowline on a bight. Perhaps not since the bitter end isn’t facing the correct direction with that.
Your buckle mechanism reminds me of the highway man's hitch, though that's a slip knot that fully unties itself with finished use. It ties quicker though, but it's a little sensitive while you're tying it.
Really like this buckle! Would you be able to show more detail of how you do the sternum strap though? Looks like a cow hitch on one end, but I can't tell what you do with the other end of the cow hitch that's not connected to the buckle knot. Thank you!
The double bowline can be tied as a single bowline on a double bite. This would pull tension from both loops as the knot collapses, but a figure 8 might be a more secure option. I've never seen this before and I'm definitely going to use it (definitely for non life supporting work loads).
Approximately all the respected lead players are in fact fantastic rhythm players. Paul Gilbert is one of my favourites in terms of: his shredding sounds just as powerful on an acoustic guitar. I guess it was a lesson for me to play the rock/metal things on an acoustic guitar once in a while. Also to make them sound good on an acoustic as well. Then you can add distortion to sound right but not to hide shortcomings or inability to play dynamics. And the one thing I feel like everyone skips until they learn how important it is (partially baked in that comment about being good at rhythm): playing with metronome but remembering to make it sound musical. If you become great at rhythm, your lead playing will sound good. Also learning chords is another side of that coin, your leads will sound better when you play chords.
I've been using this knot a lot to make (4mm paracord) shackles for cable routing at work, and I have a couple of twists on the formula. First of all, for a basic shackle what I do is exactly as shown in the beginning, then put a figure 8 knot on the locking tail, and tie an overhand on on the standing end to lock the bowline so I can cut it off. I use these mainly for ethernet in wire shelving so I just include the shelf wire in the shackle, then they can be easily moved around as we retool for different work. It can be a bit tough to judge how big a shackle will eventually need to be once all the cables are run and that's not much of a problem in this hanging configuration, but without holding up a weight, I'm not sure how much jostling they'll stand; for example if you just wanted to keep a hank of cabling coiled up, but there isn't enough thickness to fill out the shackle. What you can do is tie it with a third loop, and include the middle loop inside with the bundle. Then you can pull on it to take slack out of both other loop. There's a caveat here, that pulling out the slack this way tends to open up the bowline knot. What you can do is leave the locking tail longer, and tie it as an overhand around itself before "going around the tree". This, especially paired with the overhand outside the bowline, stops the knot from spreading. The last trick is that the lock tail is a fixed length, so the loop on that side needs to stay about the same length, with the far side loop doing all the course fitting. This won't keep particularly much tension in, so if you want to squeeze a thing, use something else, but it will let you close down the shackle to where the lock performs as expected. I've found that "under load" the bowline squeezes down and does a good job of holding the tensioning loop at it's adjustment; but I'm not really dealing with any loads, just restraining and organizing ethernet
Probably already pointed out but it's a Portuguese bowline. The loops should be adjustable as in they can pull through making one smaller and one larger. Personally I've moved to a bowline on a bite for this setup. Super handy for sure.
It seems to me that the Spanish bowline would be the perfect knot for this technique. It's 2 loops will not allow slippage from one to the other at all.
The term,"Bitter End" is nautical. It refers to the final part of the rope between the anchor chain and the thick stanchions known as the "bits"at the front of the boat. It was attached firmly to the bits and when you had reached the "End of your rope" you had paid out all your rope and reached the "Biter" end. (Spelling is correct). The use of the term to describe a "free end" of rope is therefore incorrect.
I played with this a lot, and generally like it. However, rather than using this Portuguese Bowline with its adjustable loops, I created a Double Figure Eight with fixed loops, and it has a third, smaller loop on the opposite end of the knot that can serve as the bight in the Trucker’s Hitch. Try it!
It looks pretty impressive! All sorts of possible uses. I’ve been tying a flying bowline for decades and only recently learned the name for it. I’ve figured out a way to tie it slowly and smoothly without throwing the tag end. I should make a quick video and send it to you. It may help someone.
Are there videos showing applications for that in more detail? Like the one on the first shot with the bag and the cool orange quick release… some really cool stuff you have on your channel btw. I’m learning a lot. I’m kind of new to these things but I’m starting to really catch things up now. Anyways thx for the knowledge and the presentation and keep up the good work 👍🏼
What you call a Venus try flytrap actually seems to be a variation of a bolin on a bite and a bowling on a bike is much easier to tie then your demonstration. Hope this helps.
That is great know for ad hoc crane. If you need to pull some roof tiles (not whole roof, but just 10 or so), make this know and you are good. Or some small logs. You need different size? Just adjust the knot. I like it, I have to remember that one.
Hi I'm new to your channel, really loving it. I have little experience with knots so please take with a pinch of salt. I was playing around with this I like the Angler's Loop version of this when seeing the slippage. I've not tested it under high tension yet, I only have cheap rope. Angler's Loop version of the "Venus Fly Trap" - normal Angler's Loop but you loop through the overhand knot once creating the two loops, then capture the lines as normal to finish it off.
I see a lot of "ropers" using a thick rope as you do @7:00 in the video (blue rope). How thick is it and where do you get this? Can't seem to find it. How many kg's can it pull?
While i won't use it for anything near the strength of the rope in question i will use that to secure my Genoa while not in use without the standing end...
That is the working end. The term bitter end refers to the part you don’t see. Imagine throwing an anchor overboard without having secured the back end to the boat. I think that may be the derivation of the term.
Awesome Knots and testing, every knot should be testet to see if they hold and to see where the braking points are. Maybe a new idea for a sub channel, testing strength of Knots and devices ect. 🤔
Hey, loving your rope tying videos! I was wondering if you have anything that could be used for holding wrapped cables like what a strip of Velcro would do?
I geel like this could be used in arbor work for lowering limbs down with a small chaser rope tied to the bitter end so you could remote quick release from in the tree.
With this knot and the the improved trucker’s hitch, I can literally secure my canoe in seconds and without a lot of back and forth. I’ll never use commercial straps again, thanks for this game changer!
Still don't understand how you're able to improve knots that I've never seen before... But i love it! Lol
This knot named as bowline with a loop. But it's first time ever i see THAT use of it. Brilliant!
If you pinch a bite instead of the bitter end, you would make it a quick release, plus I’d imagine the buckle would bind a little stronger. Great video, thanks!
A bite from where?
@@yousifucv Fold the "buckle" into a bight and pass that bight through leaving the bitter end pointing back towards the knot. A tug on the bitter end will now release it.
@@yousifucv I meant to say to make a bite by folding the bitter end
Good idea. Doubling the buckle would make it harder to slip through. The only concern I'd have is if the knot was pulled tight, pulling the bight on the buckle through might not be such a quick release. You might want to leave more bitter end so you can give it a yank.
Bight*
I have tested this in the last week, and i will swallow my pride and state it far surpassed what i thought it could take.
In fact it didnt fail, and untied with two fingers.
I dragged 2 tonnes of onion and water 40 feet on a dry bed trailier....i am impressed to say the least and bow down to the functionality of this....i will be using it more often.
Thank you for sharing that. Glad you like it.
This is crazy amazing and simple, I've added a simple overhand stopper knot right at the end of the bitter which helped lock it. So many uses so little time
I've been using this knot every day since this video was uploaded. Thanks!!!
I had about 2 fathoms of a thick nylon cord, leftovers from a drawstring bag that got pulverized. The cords were wasting space for about 1 year until this knot helped me turn them into quick-tie & -release straps to add to my bands for resistance training.
I saw it in your tarp video, and I was amazed. I have on in my pocket at all times, with an 8 knot at the free end. That seems perfect with a constant tension, but it may open when the line is pushed then pulled, try to wiggle vigorously.
Could you do this same thing with a double figure eight knot?
@0:52. ABOK 1072-Portuguese bowline. Called the French bowline nowadays.
Wow, that's an amazing and creative use of a common knot. Love the suggestion to use as a chest strap for a backpack.
I love this channel. Wish I knew this in my 20s. Would have saved me a lot of time on things moving all the time.
That looks like a very handy buckle knot. Thanks alot, I will definitely put this one to use!
Incredible performance of that knot, thank you for sharing!
Love this, thank you! I’ve been trying to figure out a good knot to carry my target stands together and this is it! Also for those who want a little additional security, you can wrap the working end under itself between the two loops to create a sheet bend. Still easy to untie without a load.
My suggestion; tie a stopper knot at the end of the tail. Love your vids.
This looks like the solution I've been looking for to secure cable bundles in a way that can be added to over time, and I can expect coworkers to open instead of cutting. It has a lead out the back for securing to something, I can do that overwrap on the tip of the bitter end in a larger cord so it's a stopper (these bundles aren't much of a load to engage the locking)
Extraordinary use of an ordinary object, well done!
I could see this being the basis of a "Remote Release Knot", where you lower, say, a tool box with a two ropes. One is a thick rope that holds the load with the Venus Fly Trap Hitch, while a thinner, longer cord is tied to the bitter end. Once the load is down on the ground, you tug on the smaller cord and the trap comes loose!
That sounds awesome! I’m gonna try it for a modified shepherd’s sling!
I was literally thinking the same thing.
Maybe by looping the bitter end to make it quick release, then you tie your release cord to that end and when you need to undo the buckle you just need a tug
@@packmanbp you’d need two cords in that case, and a decently weighted object to pull against, otherwise the object would be lifted when pulling the release cord and possibly breaking it
@@pedroclaro7822 That's the point of this "remote release" idea, just tying a length of T1 paracord to the place where you need to pull to release the knot you can safely lower your stuff and release it when it touches ground, without the need for someone that understands knots on the other end
Honest question, is not the end you're working with the "working end" and the far end of the line the "bitter end"?
How well does this hold against being wiggled loose in a situation where the load comes and goes a lot?
Anything is possible, but adding a stopper would help prevent the end from backing out. Or you can leave the bitter end much longer and finish with a couple of half-hitches back behind the post.
This knot requires no precision to set up, the loops can be any amount larger than needed, and a longer bitter end is as easily made as a short one is, and the knot works just as well. Very satisfying to play around with.
Seems like you could come back into an overhand knot with the tail piece to lock it in. However, that would negate the slip-knot.
Nice, very nice, and I love your study on how and why it works, how it breaks!! Great job!!
Scientific, but concise and interesting. Excellent production, well-explained, and easy to understand.
My new favorite channel. Thanks for sharing!
0:50 That's the French bowline. The Portuguese bowline be is very similar but in this case the first loop of the working end doesn't go through the loop of the bowline but it's trapped by the 'walking around the tree' movement of working end in the last part of the knot.
Thanks for the video. It's a very imaginative way to use these bowline variants.
I would have said French or Portuguese bowline, having thought they were alternative names for the same knot, as given in ABOK 1072. I've never seen this use of it before and I agree it's stunningly innovative.
Note: quick experiments show that the bowline on a bight and Spanish bowline can also be adapted in this way, with one of the ends left short to serve as the "buckle". These may not require the extra turns to make them secure for heavy loads.
good eye. I was going to say it was a portuguese one. Can you tell me what are the practical differences between the twos?
@@marcm3038 As far I know they work the same. They both make a double loop that can be easily adjusted to the desired size.
I used a double alpine knot. Seems to work as well, and much easier for me to tie
I was thinking that while watching. Not as elegant. But certainly easier to remember.
2 of the mods you've displayed do have names. The one you began with is the French bowline, EXTREMELY similar to the Portuguese bowline which does NOT pass the working end through the knot twice to capture its 2nd loop, instead capturing it with the finish around the standing end. Next, doubling up the knot is just a Double bowline. I'm not sure if the round turn you used in the end has a name as a bowline, but adding a round turn to the finish of a normal bowline makes it look neat on the front side; the back has the round turn covering up the bowline's iconic triangle. Altogether, you've made a round turn double French bowline.
Do you have a source for the bowline being French and Portuguese?
The bowline was described in, A Sea Grammar, by English explorer Cpt. John Smith in 1627
@@JBplumbing12 I didn't say they were the same. Structurally, they're different, but functionally, they're the same. I'm only using images online on how each are tied.
French (F): When making the 1st loop, you pass the working end through the initial loop in the standing end just like in the video.
Portuguese (P): When making the 1st loop, you leave the working end outside/in front of the initial loop in the standing end.
Both bowlines are completed the same way, but you'll notice in the P that the initial loop in the standing end is BETWEEN the loops on the right side of the knot while the F has them both UNDER the initial loop. The P makes it obvious which line you can use to adjust the loops.
When you take both apart by undoing the bite, the P will fall apart while the F has to have the line taken out through the initial loop, otherwise you'll be left with an overhand knot. Unless you can take out the standing end first, P is always faster.
Personally, I prefer the P since it's slightly faster to tie, comes undone faster either way, and makes it obvious which line needs to be used to adjust the loops.
@@zecuse Thankyou for your detailed reply. It can be very difficult describing knots and you described them very well.
I apologise, I should have done an image search on the P and F bowlines and educated myself prior to asking you. I have now looked them up visually. It is interesting how many varieties of bowline there are.
The French Bowline, also known as the Portuguese Bowline, is also very similar to the Bowline On A Bight**. The Bowline On A Bight is another knot that forms two reliable loops that can be used as a Bosun's Chair, I find the Eskimo bowline good for this. On another note, have your heard of the VooDoo hitch which is used in fire / rescue but can be used to strap down things with a ton of force due to the nature of the mechanical advantage.
The Portuguese Bowline can also be tied with splayed loops, which might be worth trying in this application.
Portuguese bowline and French bowline are not the same.
Do you have a channel? I’d love to learn those knots as I’ve never heard of a voodoo hitch….. google isn’t helpful
Is the "voodoo hitch" the same as a canoe hitch?
It really isn't much like the inline bowline or bowline in a bight. Firstly because of where & hoops loops are created & interact, but mre importantly bc an inline bowline doesn't slip the way traditional ones do & can take load from all 3 directions.
So I've heard that adjustable double loop bowline, called the fireman's bowline before. Just the knot itself not the hitch you did
This is absolutely genius, and very satisfying to play around with. It just works so well, requires no precision really, and a longer bitter end allows you to finish with half-hitches if you really need it to hold.
Seems a great way to tie off a dog leash, and gives you a double handle to hold when walking. Just a thought.
Also maybe has applications in cold weather, where you set it up once, and then can re-apply it with numb hands, or gloves on.
This is awesome, and I look forward to mastering and using this setup. I feel like the bitter end should have a stopper knot. Clearly it works without it, but mines gonna have one anyways 😉
My favorite and most frequently used knot now has an upgrade and increased utility. Thanks for sharing!
This is a great knot, will definitely give it a try, thanks.
I would have thought a sufficient modification would be to just feed through 3 loops instead of two and pull the middle one tight? This seemed to solve the problem for me but I don't have your comprehensive test setup. Great videos, thanks!
This is a sick knot man. Quite useful. Will put it in the tool box! Thank you so much!
Would you please explain the type of paracord you use and what you would recommend. Thanks
Great creativity. Love to see it!
This was a really interesting video. Besides the useful knot you presented, I really enjoyed the process and testing. Thx. 😊
It looks like it could fall apart unless you keep tension on it. Maybe you could pass a bight through, and then pass the end through the bight? It would take two pulls to release instead of one, but it would be less likely to come open.
Great idea
Portuguese bowline! Wonderful knot.
Excellent work Sir, please keep up the good work !!
Karash double loop?
That's a pretty neat and nifty not looks to have some real world applications like that of a truckers hitch or combined with the truckers hitch can't wait to put it to work nice presentation on the various ways it works with the different rope sizes
Fantastic work, as always, and much appreciated! Much respect.
Awesome! It's work! Thank's for sharing!
That was a cool test and machine. Perhaps you could demonstrate the thing about rope supposedly being weaker if it's wet, knotted, or dirty and to what degree. I'm also curious about the strength difference between paracord in various conditions, like how tight the outside vs inside relates to strength.
Also, because it's supposedly used for breakaway links to deploy military parachutes when the guts are removed and the jumper reaches the end of his static line, I was wondering how strong a loop of gutless paracord is. There is a military urban legend about a jumpmaster - who had beef with one of the people jumping - used two loops of (possibly gutless) breakaway 550 cord instead of the normal 1 loop, and this was said to not break away, and the fella was left bouncing against the side of the aircraft... with unfavorable results.
You would love HowNOT2 they test all kinds of ropes and climbing gear
Why wouldn't you use something like Tumble Hitch, Mooring Hitch or Slipped Constrictor Knot?
I am very, very good at untying knots. I don’t know how to tie knots. Sorry. is this a problem? Please let me know.
I'm looking for a knot to secure appliance cord. The idea is the string remains attached to the cord. With the cord coiled, bring the standing and working ends together then tighten.
I've tried several ideas. I wonder if you've found something you like.
If only I had head brains so I could remember this amazing stuff.
Traditionally, it is pronounced bowlin.
Neat idea, I’ll have to give it a try. I wonder if it would work with a bowline on a bight. Perhaps not since the bitter end isn’t facing the correct direction with that.
Update: it does work with the bowline on a bight!
Your buckle mechanism reminds me of the highway man's hitch, though that's a slip knot that fully unties itself with finished use. It ties quicker though, but it's a little sensitive while you're tying it.
Really like this buckle! Would you be able to show more detail of how you do the sternum strap though? Looks like a cow hitch on one end, but I can't tell what you do with the other end of the cow hitch that's not connected to the buckle knot. Thank you!
Sure thing, I’ll make a video.
@@First_Class_Amateur thank you!!!
Nice!! This reminds me of your "5 loop bowline" that you used as a ratchet strap
An idea: you could tie a Birmingham/Brummycham bowline if you want two loops that don't slip.
Can make the same type knot with a super eight
I think I will call it a grapple knot
Or loop 🤔
Thank you for the video!! I love it!!
The double bowline can be tied as a single bowline on a double bite. This would pull tension from both loops as the knot collapses, but a figure 8 might be a more secure option. I've never seen this before and I'm definitely going to use it (definitely for non life supporting work loads).
Does it release under load? If you double over the bitter end I bet you could.
Approximately all the respected lead players are in fact fantastic rhythm players. Paul Gilbert is one of my favourites in terms of: his shredding sounds just as powerful on an acoustic guitar. I guess it was a lesson for me to play the rock/metal things on an acoustic guitar once in a while. Also to make them sound good on an acoustic as well. Then you can add distortion to sound right but not to hide shortcomings or inability to play dynamics. And the one thing I feel like everyone skips until they learn how important it is (partially baked in that comment about being good at rhythm): playing with metronome but remembering to make it sound musical. If you become great at rhythm, your lead playing will sound good. Also learning chords is another side of that coin, your leads will sound better when you play chords.
nice knot if you leave the tail end longer and loop it through for easy release dos it edfect knot durability
That's beautiful man😁
I've been using this knot a lot to make (4mm paracord) shackles for cable routing at work, and I have a couple of twists on the formula. First of all, for a basic shackle what I do is exactly as shown in the beginning, then put a figure 8 knot on the locking tail, and tie an overhand on on the standing end to lock the bowline so I can cut it off. I use these mainly for ethernet in wire shelving so I just include the shelf wire in the shackle, then they can be easily moved around as we retool for different work.
It can be a bit tough to judge how big a shackle will eventually need to be once all the cables are run and that's not much of a problem in this hanging configuration, but without holding up a weight, I'm not sure how much jostling they'll stand; for example if you just wanted to keep a hank of cabling coiled up, but there isn't enough thickness to fill out the shackle. What you can do is tie it with a third loop, and include the middle loop inside with the bundle. Then you can pull on it to take slack out of both other loop.
There's a caveat here, that pulling out the slack this way tends to open up the bowline knot. What you can do is leave the locking tail longer, and tie it as an overhand around itself before "going around the tree". This, especially paired with the overhand outside the bowline, stops the knot from spreading. The last trick is that the lock tail is a fixed length, so the loop on that side needs to stay about the same length, with the far side loop doing all the course fitting.
This won't keep particularly much tension in, so if you want to squeeze a thing, use something else, but it will let you close down the shackle to where the lock performs as expected. I've found that "under load" the bowline squeezes down and does a good job of holding the tensioning loop at it's adjustment; but I'm not really dealing with any loads, just restraining and organizing ethernet
Instruction not good can't repeat it
or maybe i can but how i can be sure, this loops supposed to slip on each other?
Great. Looking forward to the Dr Johnny Fever knot.
Probably already pointed out but it's a Portuguese bowline. The loops should be adjustable as in they can pull through making one smaller and one larger. Personally I've moved to a bowline on a bite for this setup. Super handy for sure.
So the bitter end is acting like a spike or toggle in a marlin spike hitch, or a knot end of a soft shackle. Cool!
It seems to me that the Spanish bowline would be the perfect knot for this technique. It's 2 loops will not allow slippage from one to the other at all.
Well, I just found a new knot I'm going to start using!
More sternum strap knots/examples please. 😊
The term,"Bitter End" is nautical. It refers to the final part of the rope between the anchor chain and the thick stanchions known as the "bits"at the front of the boat. It was attached firmly to the bits and when you had reached the "End of your rope" you had paid out all your rope and reached the "Biter" end. (Spelling is correct). The use of the term to describe a "free end" of rope is therefore incorrect.
I played with this a lot, and generally like it. However, rather than using this Portuguese Bowline with its adjustable loops, I created a Double Figure Eight with fixed loops, and it has a third, smaller loop on the opposite end of the knot that can serve as the bight in the Trucker’s Hitch. Try it!
It looks pretty impressive! All sorts of possible uses.
I’ve been tying a flying bowline for decades and only recently learned the name for it. I’ve figured out a way to tie it slowly and smoothly without throwing the tag end. I should make a quick video and send it to you. It may help someone.
Are there videos showing applications for that in more detail? Like the one on the first shot with the bag and the cool orange quick release… some really cool stuff you have on your channel btw. I’m learning a lot. I’m kind of new to these things but I’m starting to really catch things up now. Anyways thx for the knowledge and the presentation and keep up the good work 👍🏼
why you dont show how you tied it to the bagand allof this
Problem: it's only tight when under load. Is it possible to make it so that I can tighten it manually?
Very cool!! Love it!
What you call a Venus try flytrap actually seems to be a variation of a bolin on a bite and a bowling on a bike is much easier to tie then your demonstration. Hope this helps.
As variation, similar design can be tied using a double Kalmyk loop
That is great know for ad hoc crane. If you need to pull some roof tiles (not whole roof, but just 10 or so), make this know and you are good. Or some small logs. You need different size? Just adjust the knot. I like it, I have to remember that one.
Hi I'm new to your channel, really loving it. I have little experience with knots so please take with a pinch of salt.
I was playing around with this I like the Angler's Loop version of this when seeing the slippage. I've not tested it under high tension yet, I only have cheap rope.
Angler's Loop version of the "Venus Fly Trap" - normal Angler's Loop but you loop through the overhand knot once creating the two loops, then capture the lines as normal to finish it off.
Could replace the use of toggles as quick releases in some scenarios.
I see a lot of "ropers" using a thick rope as you do @7:00 in the video (blue rope). How thick is it and where do you get this? Can't seem to find it. How many kg's can it pull?
Really it's a smart and Very useful Idea. Congratulations!
try a double bowline at the friction point effectively a double bowline on a double bite
The "buckle" reminds me of a highwayman's, tumble or becket hitch (all based on the same three-way friction idea).
So ironic that a knot master uses the less common pronunciation of bowline.
I really like your knot ideas! Way to go!
Regarding your strength tests: Ever thought about a collab with @howknot2?
Great knot! Thank!
What material is the white pole made of?
seems to work too with the Spanish bowline
Perfect...using on board, thanks so much.
It's a French bowline?
While i won't use it for anything near the strength of the rope in question i will use that to secure my Genoa while not in use without the standing end...
You should have clarified that it makes the breakaway ability of a bracelet much more impossible. I'm sure it still opens as intended just fine.
A Portuguese bowline?
That is the working end. The term bitter end refers to the part you don’t see. Imagine throwing an anchor overboard without having secured the back end to the boat. I think that may be the derivation of the term.
great content, per usual
Awesome Knots and testing, every knot should be testet to see if they hold and to see where the braking points are.
Maybe a new idea for a sub channel, testing strength of Knots and devices ect. 🤔
Where do you purchase your rope?
Hey, loving your rope tying videos! I was wondering if you have anything that could be used for holding wrapped cables like what a strip of Velcro would do?
Check out a basic Canadian jam knot
Maybe you like this one, I use it for cable tying, but maybe ther Is a better one.
ruclips.net/video/XOfXenFJPhk/видео.html
Clove hitch
I geel like this could be used in arbor work for lowering limbs down with a small chaser rope tied to the bitter end so you could remote quick release from in the tree.
A slow motion video of your knots being tested to failure might be interesting.