I just noticed the shuddering on my 2016 Taco a few days ago. Seems to happen around 25 MPH and 1500 RPM, low gears, 90k miles. Very grateful for your thorough examination. Cheers, mate!
I’m having the same problem. The carrier bearing was not the problem. It’s been going on for one week now . Back to the shop I go to trouble shoot more in depth. I think this might be my problem
@@CAgenius it’s the torque converter . Fixed it with a transmission flush and added the shutter fix additive from autozone . 20$ . No more shutter. Torque converters are a problem with the 3rd gen tacomas
This channel shows great proof that milage is not the best indicator of vehicle condition. Show me the maintenance records! This truck is in better shape than others I've seen with half the mileage.
But also consider this likely is a highway life truck. A city truck gets beat to hell on the pothole roads and accidents from parking lots and city traffic and bumper to bumper errand use.
I’ve had shaking when accelerating in my 2005 tundra V8. It took time and $$$ wasted changing parts that didn’t need changing to find source of the shutter. Turned out in the end was from the rear differential. Nothing was wrong with it but some idiot changed the dif oil with incorrect oil. The truck is a 2wheel drive TRD and has a limited slip. Regular dif oil won’t work, it needs to be LSD oil and there’s a sticker there stating that.
Because my Taco is a '17 this video made me nervous. That is, until the very end when you talked about how well the truck held up. 180k miles is alot. Mine has 50k and I don't drive her much since I retired. Still, she's my baby. I'll subscribe. Thank you
I might consider putting oil, even used oil, in the differential to see if the shuddering goes away. If it does, maybe the gears aren’t ruined from lack of lubrication. At least you’ll have a clearer picture of what’s going on.
I had all kinds of shudder issues with my 20 Tacoma within 20,000kms of owning. Toyota couldn’t figure it out. Techs agreed there was an issue but eventually changed their tune to it being “characteristic of the truck”. Got rid of it as soon as the used truck market exploded.
Peter sounds like you were fighting a cold. I enjoy your videos. You have a detailed presentation and an experience of logically diagnosing malfunctions on a vehicle. Very different from those who replace components and if you bring it back to them, they give you the line that the component needed replaced anyway. Those moments are particularly frustrating to me. Keep up the great work and may you have greater success in your business in the coming year.
Peter you always have a very informative video on the Tacoma trucks. I have a 2012 and a 2002 and you cover a lot of things with your videos. Once again thank you. And looking forward for your next one.
@@michael184272 I recommend Ford Motocraft PTFE lubricant. The blue stuff. I heard about it on a Tacoma forum. Comes in a small tube. Make sure to clean off the old grease. Also, if you have a second gen with LSD, make sure you have sufficient limited slip diff additive in the rear diff. This can help solve shutter issues as well. Just my 2 cents.
That sucking noise when the rear diff fill plug was removed indicates that the diff vent is seized/plugged and likely caused the axle seal to fail causing the low rear diff oil.
@@Neodymium5312 you said not make any suck noise? Then it's good according to the above commenter. You should check the vent cap. Reach in and spin it. If it's hard, it's blocked and take pliers and spin it. If you break it off who cares. It's like $10 to charge with a small deep socket. But easier if you don't break it. Just spin it.
Yes but on my WJ Jeep, the rear wheel seals are outboard the bearings and the bearings are lubricated by the same oil that lubes the rear differential. They can still leak like the Tacoma.
I've a 2010 tacoma trd 4.0 and am 270 miles from 255,000. I recently noticed this odd shudder occuring between 30-40mph when accelerating. Its been slowly but steadily becoming more apparent. Trying to discern the cause without spending $10,000 at a mechanic. Im not equipped to do many of these repairs myself.
@efil4kizum No, no. An exaggeration I assure you. I am however very tight in the budget so if I could fix it for the cost of parts and time, I'd take that. Likely I'll sell it in the next couple of weeks though
Come 180,000 miles you're going to spend 2- $3000 in maintenance. Things start wearing out. That's just the way it is. If you want to keep the car you're going to have to invest in it. Things don't last forever.
got over 320,000 miles on my 2015 Tacoma and still going strong. Learning to do as much of your own maintenance and repairs as possible definitely helps keep maint. $ down.
For that amount of miles the truck is an excellent shape especially the underbody he’s obviously taking decent care of it. With that amount of miles parts eventually wear out need replaced, fluids flushed and replaced.
@@revilsdr. My 2008 Toyota corolla has 165 thousand miles and has zero leaks zero problems and all I do is keep up with all preventive maintenance, I don't see this car giving me any problems until it gets over 300 thousand miles maybe 400 thousand miles.
Soon after I got my 21 Taco (just 20 miles) I checked all fluids: Heard a hissing sound (suction) when I loosen the rear diff and manual gear box filler bolts. I am glad I check all around. Found a unreleased heater hose clamp at the Pass-side firewall! You must ensure the rear axle oil seal rides right in the middle of the ABS ring retainer. Otherwise, it will leak again. Check Timmy the tool man's 3rd gen 4runner axle repair (sharpie test). My 97 4R at 220K miles and original front bearings, 92 coroll at 283K miles and all original bearings all around. TAco's should be tough but can't believe front bearing is already shot.
Great detail presentation! But I recommend Not to perform a transmission flush. I did that once and my transmission shifted troublesome. I now perform drain and fill transmission fluid.
Something may have been jammed backwards where it wasn't supposed to go as well. The passages look like an any farm maze if you ever seen one open before.
Is the so called "Drain and Flush" just the amount draining from the pan once every so often, or do you drain and flush, start the vehicle and repeat several times until you get clearer fluid then what came out on the first drain..?
Some VERY good points 👍 in this video. I don't know why that location bearing always wears out first. My guess is an extra 200lbs of man meat being thrown around directly over that area in the cab has something to do with it.
@@plutosforest my guess is road conditions along with driving style. I did a long write-up on a comment about this months ago somewhere on another video on their channel. Some drive their trucks hard. Some roads abuse the parts of the car more. Maybe even some drivers turn the wheel harder or drive and turn more. Who knows. All we know is it's always that one if it happens. At the dealer when cars come in, it's that one.
Thank you sir a great example of troubleshooting and critically thinking to resolve an issue. I would assume the owner didn’t change the fluid which wore out the seal? However, parts do go bad and don’t last forever.
Surprised at the expected longevity of less than 100,000 miles on wheel bearings. I have a 2000 Tundra, 4.7 Ltr. V8, 178,000 miles and no sign of bearing wear.
@@danmartinez9497 TONKA! 178,000 mi. Tundra, 2001 LX-470 AWD w/lockers and Leon, the 78' FJ-40 4sp. and a lonely Suburban, to haul the hunting camp trailer.
A lot of factors come into play with wheel bearings , off-road use, bad roads , pot holes . All of those things can drastically shorten the life of a wheel bearing
@@tundras4ever552 True. Our Auburn Al. lease had so much iron in it, AFTER season end, the Suburban always needed complete brakes and rotors. Leon, the FJ-40, never needed anything. I don't drive new, because woods can ruin a new paint job, but all my Tonka's work. In all these years, I've replaced my share of stuff, but never any wheel bearings. Leon needs a new slave cylinder, last replaced, early 80's. Not enough "exercise" between seasons.
I am having the same issue, 2019 Tacoma with 68000 miles. when it's cold it does not shudder only when it gets to normal temp after driving 15 min then it starts at acceleration at 20 then stops then again at 25, 30, 35, 40 then it stops at high mph. checked and cleaned mass airflow sensor. The dealer did install a new fuel pump just recently due to recall and when i got it back 2 days later it started to shudder. Maybe a drain and fill on the trans may help it? any advice on what to diagnose? also the dealer said that it needs a new torque converter, same dealer that installed the fuel pump.
Thanks for all your videos. This may be a unrelated question but will a torque converter shutter problem shudder when you rev it in neutral. This is for a 2012 Camry. Thank you
My 2015 Tacoma V6 4WD shudders under light throttle on a slight incline at approx 38 mph. 73,000mi. Dealer couldn't find any problems. I just leave the transmission in 4 instead of D while not on the freeway. No shuddering.
Did this fix the issue? My 2016 Tacoma does the same thing, but my brakes and rear differential are fine. I’m interested to know if this solved the problem.
At 135k , dealer said my vibes were from my AT tires ‘wearing’ lol. New front bearings had 5k miles. I found I had 2 bad u joints so I replaced them all. No more shudder and vibe.
Yeah really. I would have replaced it for sure as part of this service. I thought I would have to replace my axle seals but replaced my vent valve first and no more leak.
Have you uploaded something specifically on 2003 and newer 4Runner/FJ Cruiser/GX470 (aka Prado) rear parking brake service problems? My 70,000 km 2009 4Runner has a strange problem -- with two nuts holding each rear rotor firm to the flange, the left side rear rotor will only rotate by hand in reverse while the passenger's side will only rotate forward with the truck in park, of course (open differential). It won't budge in the direction even with a prybar. The brake shoes and hardware are all original except for brand new O.E. Toyota shoe hold-down pins and springs and retainers. Even the the rotors, pads and shims are O.E. Toyota parts from the dealer with about 10,000 kms on them. The shoe adjusters are well-greased an backed off all the way in and the rotors slide on and off with ease. Everything has high-temp copper grease and the shoes and calipers move around freely. It seems to be only the right side that's acting up. I'm tired of pulling everything apart again to check. A Prado forum thread says that surface rust build up can cause this condition but I don't wanna just put the wheels back on and break something. Any insight? I know the shoes are backed all the way off because the parking brake pedal drops all the way to the floor. I hate rotor-in-hat parking brakes. A service headache in rusty climates. Thank heavens the Tacoma still has drums with automatic slack adjusters.
I have a 2020 Tacoma TRD Off-road and the dealership had to replace my rear differential at 6000 miles because it was howling. When the guy drained my Diff he kept a sample and it was black as pitch. That rear diff should have been making some kind of noise as it was running down on oil.
I hope you didn't confuse the howling with the ac compressor noise that happens upon accelerating. Alot of guys have. And have thrown alot of money at to only find. That it was coming from the ac compressor being on.
@@kgbreviews35 I’m relatively certain that my AC compressor is under the hood while my rear differential is in the rear. I appreciate the attempt to help but I assure you the rear differential was the issue. The noise went away with the new diff and I have been changing the gear oil every 10,000 miles and the noise hasn’t returned. Still running the original AC compressor.
I did have a suspicion in the beginning that you led me to the trans and you should crack the bolt to check the color of it anyway but my real suspicion was the driveshaft and then diff. But you proved it wasn't one and I am almost certain that diff is dry! They already neglect that rest l rear end! Hopefully that fixes his problem. Aisin makes the trans and they are strong ones that just don't break. This truck may very well end up being one of those million miles tundras. Something like a thousand miles a week is a lot!
My tundra actually has a “shudder” at very low speeds,so I’m definitely gonna have it looked at…thanks Peter for your info,hopefully I can find what’s exactly causing it
I hope i can bring my car to you sir. I have vibration when acceleration' after alittle bit high rpm the vibration is gone' only when started running like 10 to 20mph. Thank for making video like this.
I’ve had this shudder from the day I brought my Tacoma home new. Originally Toyota said the tranny needed to be replaced, but the dealer gave me the run around and stonewalled me for so long I gave up.
What is going on with quality now. I got 2010 tacoma with 123k miles on it. I got the bad needle bearing i be replacing soon. I work at a shop and had 3 newer tacomas 20,21 and a 22 with shudder on acceleration. Its like where is the quality
Good video. I am having issues with my 14 Tacoma and am not sure what it ia. Had front brake pads replaced and rears adjusted by Toyota dealership back in June. Now I am feeling a chattering/grinding feeling while braking. I have checked the front wheels bearing play and feels good. Going to check rear next. Toyota dealership took test drive and felt nothing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
That truck would benefit with an undercoating oil spray to keep the minimum rust at bay. Rust Check, Fluid Film, or Krown products are all good for that.
That truck will be around a long time. I would do all the rear axle bearings and seals. I would take a pipe cleaner and see how low that rear diff fluid is. It might need a new rear axle.
Hello Peter, great video of master mechanic at work! Appreciate your efforts getting information that's crucial to anyone interested. Our 2020 Taco rwd trd is good so far are 33K miles. I plan to drive truck to you for any service needed in future, much respect to you!
My 3rd Gen Tacoma is falling apart…front driver wheel bearing, BSM sensor, leaks on the rooftop brake light and weird transmission shifts when it’s cold out. They don’t make these like they use to. 1st and second 2nd generation are built better tbh.
Hey perhaps you could give me some advice? 2021 Tacoma TRD 2 Wheel Dr. vibration between 15 and 25 mph whether I’m accelerating or stopping. Dealership doesn’t know what to do. They replaced leaf springs but that didn’t help. I noticed whenever I have a load in the truck and it squats at approximately 1 inch there is no more vibration. Any ideas or recommendations?
Hi,Sir. I have a 2016 tacoma off Road with only 68,000 miles when I first start my truck and I go for a ride and I come to a stop my transmission down shit hard then after that it wont do it again but if I park my truck for a little while it will do it again! is only when I come to a stop< also I noticed when the temperature gauge is not in the middle thats where I think the hard shift starts, but when is warm up it wont do it again. any idea will be appreciate it. thanks in advance.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I just noticed the shuddering on my 2016 Taco a few days ago. Seems to happen around 25 MPH and 1500 RPM, low gears, 90k miles. Very grateful for your thorough examination. Cheers, mate!
Mine is doing it too. Did the video say he actually fixed it? Didn’t catch that part
I’m having the same problem. The carrier bearing was not the problem. It’s been going on for one week now . Back to the shop I go to trouble shoot more in depth. I think this might be my problem
@@aoekoneany solution for ya?
@@CAgenius it’s the torque converter . Fixed it with a transmission flush and added the shutter fix additive from autozone . 20$ . No more shutter. Torque converters are a problem with the 3rd gen tacomas
You’re like the Bob Ross of mechanics. I could listen to you all day man. Very informative as well. Thank you
Excellent presentation, sir!
Thank you. My Taco has the same shudder issue. This might just be the problem here.
This channel shows great proof that milage is not the best indicator of vehicle condition. Show me the maintenance records! This truck is in better shape than others I've seen with half the mileage.
But also consider this likely is a highway life truck. A city truck gets beat to hell on the pothole roads and accidents from parking lots and city traffic and bumper to bumper errand use.
Hopefully we'll get to see the full repair, great presentation Peter, very informative, as always 👍👌
I had the same thing in my truck, coils were bad fixed there are 3 in moter cost $1000
I’ve had shaking when accelerating in my 2005 tundra V8. It took time and $$$ wasted changing parts that didn’t need changing to find source of the shutter. Turned out in the end was from the rear differential. Nothing was wrong with it but some idiot changed the dif oil with incorrect oil. The truck is a 2wheel drive TRD and has a limited slip. Regular dif oil won’t work, it needs to be LSD oil and there’s a sticker there stating that.
Thanks for the info.
Because my Taco is a '17 this video made me nervous. That is, until the very end when you talked about how well the truck held up. 180k miles is alot. Mine has 50k and I don't drive her much since I retired. Still, she's my baby. I'll subscribe. Thank you
I might consider putting oil, even used oil, in the differential to see if the shuddering goes away. If it does, maybe the gears aren’t ruined from lack of lubrication. At least you’ll have a clearer picture of what’s going on.
Great job! Thanks for walking us through your thought process to narrow down the problem. Really helpful
These videos show your integrity so much that it makes me want to buy a Toyota and move back to California! Great job!
I'd stay wherever you are at. Not worth coming to California. The cost of living in california is ridiculously expensive.
I think just a bearing and axle seal replacement with rear diff service is MUCH better than needing a new trans.
Thank you for being so detailed. Great video.
thanks for showing us your troubleshooting path to finding the answer.
I had all kinds of shudder issues with my 20 Tacoma within 20,000kms of owning. Toyota couldn’t figure it out. Techs agreed there was an issue but eventually changed their tune to it being “characteristic of the truck”. Got rid of it as soon as the used truck market exploded.
none with mine so far. 26k miles
Same here... I'm gonna have to fix it myself...
Peter sounds like you were fighting a cold. I enjoy your videos. You have a detailed presentation and an experience of logically diagnosing malfunctions on a vehicle. Very different from those who replace components and if you bring it back to them, they give you the line that the component needed replaced anyway.
Those moments are particularly frustrating to me. Keep up the great work and may you have greater success in your business in the coming year.
Peter you always have a very informative video on the Tacoma trucks. I have a 2012 and a 2002 and you cover a lot of things with your videos. Once again thank you. And looking forward for your next one.
With that many miles, it will do good to also grease the slip yoke on the propeller shaft. Greasing mine stopped the shutter.
What type grease is recommended on the slip yoke and is it different then what's used for the universals?
Thanks in advance
@@michael184272 I recommend Ford Motocraft PTFE lubricant. The blue stuff. I heard about it on a Tacoma forum. Comes in a small tube. Make sure to clean off the old grease. Also, if you have a second gen with LSD, make sure you have sufficient limited slip diff additive in the rear diff. This can help solve shutter issues as well. Just my 2 cents.
Another great effort on your
part.
That sucking noise when the rear diff fill plug was removed indicates that the diff vent is seized/plugged and likely caused the axle seal to fail causing the low rear diff oil.
Goos point! If that vent is clogged the pressure from the super heated oil can blow out the seals.
@@Neodymium5312 you said not make any suck noise? Then it's good according to the above commenter.
You should check the vent cap. Reach in and spin it. If it's hard, it's blocked and take pliers and spin it. If you break it off who cares. It's like $10 to charge with a small deep socket. But easier if you don't break it. Just spin it.
Wouldn't both sides be leaking?
Yes but on my WJ Jeep, the rear wheel seals are outboard the bearings and the bearings are lubricated by the same oil that lubes the rear differential. They can still leak like the Tacoma.
You should check the rear differential breather.
If it goes bad, or gets dirty, and fails to vent. The gear oil will vent out the axle seal.
I relocated my diff breather near the gas filler
12 year toyota tech . Definitely a plugged breather you could hear the pressure release when he removed the fill plug.
@@BrianSmith-si4zdhow can you tell if it’s plugged up?
I've a 2010 tacoma trd 4.0 and am 270 miles from 255,000. I recently noticed this odd shudder occuring between 30-40mph when accelerating. Its been slowly but steadily becoming more apparent. Trying to discern the cause without spending $10,000 at a mechanic. Im not equipped to do many of these repairs myself.
why so much? 10k! is that what you were quoted?
@efil4kizum No, no. An exaggeration I assure you. I am however very tight in the budget so if I could fix it for the cost of parts and time, I'd take that. Likely I'll sell it in the next couple of weeks though
Come 180,000 miles you're going to spend 2- $3000 in maintenance. Things start wearing out. That's just the way it is. If you want to keep the car you're going to have to invest in it. Things don't last forever.
But Toyotas definitely last longer and closer to forever than many of it's competitors from other continents.
got over 320,000 miles on my 2015 Tacoma and still going strong.
Learning to do as much of your own maintenance and repairs as possible definitely helps keep maint. $ down.
For that amount of miles the truck is an excellent shape especially the underbody he’s obviously taking decent care of it. With that amount of miles parts eventually wear out need replaced, fluids flushed and replaced.
@@revilsdr. My 2008 Toyota corolla has 165 thousand miles and has zero leaks zero problems and all I do is keep up with all preventive maintenance, I don't see this car giving me any problems until it gets over 300 thousand miles maybe 400 thousand miles.
Made in Mexico
Peter, I’m new to your channel. I appreciate the details of your videos. Keep up the good work.
It would be nice to see repairs being done on the vehicles again. Nothing is better then a visual repair to see what the person is up against
Soon after I got my 21 Taco (just 20 miles) I checked all fluids: Heard a hissing sound (suction) when I loosen the rear diff and manual gear box filler bolts. I am glad I check all around. Found a unreleased heater hose clamp at the Pass-side firewall!
You must ensure the rear axle oil seal rides right in the middle of the ABS ring retainer. Otherwise, it will leak again. Check Timmy the tool man's 3rd gen 4runner axle repair (sharpie test). My 97 4R at 220K miles and original front bearings, 92 coroll at 283K miles and all original bearings all around. TAco's should be tough but can't believe front bearing is already shot.
Great detail presentation! But I recommend Not to perform a transmission flush. I did that once and my transmission shifted troublesome. I now perform drain and fill transmission fluid.
Something may have been jammed backwards where it wasn't supposed to go as well. The passages look like an any farm maze if you ever seen one open before.
A tranny flush in a high miler is just borrowing trouble. Better to drain and refill than taking the chance on a flush.
Is the so called "Drain and Flush" just the amount draining from the pan once every so often, or do you drain and flush, start the vehicle and repeat several times until you get clearer fluid then what came out on the first drain..?
I drain and fill trans pan with every oil change and use only Toyota ATF WS.
Some VERY good points 👍 in this video. I don't know why that location bearing always wears out first. My guess is an extra 200lbs of man meat being thrown around directly over that area in the cab has something to do with it.
I am surprised the bearing is failing at all, I've not experienced that issue with older Toyotas.
@@plutosforest my guess is road conditions along with driving style. I did a long write-up on a comment about this months ago somewhere on another video on their channel. Some drive their trucks hard. Some roads abuse the parts of the car more. Maybe even some drivers turn the wheel harder or drive and turn more. Who knows. All we know is it's always that one if it happens. At the dealer when cars come in, it's that one.
Great information. Thanks.
Thank you sir a great example of troubleshooting and critically thinking to resolve an issue. I would assume the owner didn’t change the fluid which wore out the seal? However, parts do go bad and don’t last forever.
I was wondering the same thing and also wondered why it wasn't brought up in the diagnosing of the problems
You are a Master of Deduction
Can you verify the size of the bolts used to push the drum off?
Having similar issues with my 2007 4Runner SR5 4x4...had differential oils changed on both axles, but still need to do more troubleshooting
Has over 180k miles on it
Surprised at the expected longevity of less than 100,000 miles on wheel bearings.
I have a 2000 Tundra, 4.7 Ltr. V8, 178,000 miles and no sign of bearing wear.
They usually "go out" around 60,000 miles.
@@danmartinez9497
TONKA!
178,000 mi. Tundra, 2001 LX-470 AWD w/lockers and Leon, the 78' FJ-40 4sp. and a lonely Suburban, to haul the hunting camp trailer.
A lot of factors come into play with wheel bearings , off-road use, bad roads , pot holes . All of those things can drastically shorten the life of a wheel bearing
@@tundras4ever552
True. Our Auburn Al. lease had so much iron in it, AFTER season end, the Suburban always needed complete brakes and rotors.
Leon, the FJ-40, never needed anything. I don't drive new, because woods can ruin a new paint job, but all my Tonka's work. In all these years, I've replaced my share of stuff, but never any wheel bearings.
Leon needs a new slave cylinder, last replaced, early 80's. Not enough "exercise" between seasons.
@@danmartinez9497 They generally last the life of the vehicle (300k+ miles). People don’t know how to drive.
I noticed my axle U-bolts were under torqued after 80k miles when I decided to check.
I am having the same issue, 2019 Tacoma with 68000 miles. when it's cold it does not shudder only when it gets to normal temp after driving 15 min then it starts at acceleration at 20 then stops then again at 25, 30, 35, 40 then it stops at high mph. checked and cleaned mass airflow sensor. The dealer did install a new fuel pump just recently due to recall and when i got it back 2 days later it started to shudder. Maybe a drain and fill on the trans may help it? any advice on what to diagnose? also the dealer said that it needs a new torque converter, same dealer that installed the fuel pump.
Always replace the bearing and check the vent.
Great job, my 2007 TRD OR tacoma did same thing. Big price tag!
Thanks for all your videos. This may be a unrelated question but will a torque converter shutter problem shudder when you rev it in neutral. This is for a 2012 Camry. Thank you
My 2015 Tacoma V6 4WD shudders under light throttle on a slight incline at approx 38 mph. 73,000mi. Dealer couldn't find any problems. I just leave the transmission in 4 instead of D while not on the freeway. No shuddering.
Peter is the best!
Very interesting. Nice, clear presentation.
Thanks for another awesome video, Peter! ❤❤
The carrier bearing causes does the same shuddering, at least on mine.
hopefully you put the video up on replacing those seals!!!
Did this fix the issue? My 2016 Tacoma does the same thing, but my brakes and rear differential are fine. I’m interested to know if this solved the problem.
At 135k , dealer said my vibes were from my AT tires ‘wearing’ lol. New front bearings had 5k miles.
I found I had 2 bad u joints so I replaced them all. No more shudder and vibe.
great video Peter, I would have liked to see if the vent on the rear dif was clogged?
Yeah really. I would have replaced it for sure as part of this service. I thought I would have to replace my axle seals but replaced my vent valve first and no more leak.
Another great video Peter.
I had a case where I found a worn water pump bearing.
It did not leak.
It was 4 years old.
،👍👍👍 welcome back
Yes hope he had a good holiday. And get some good Thanksgiving black Friday shopping deals. Stay warm my friend.
Have you uploaded something specifically on 2003 and newer 4Runner/FJ Cruiser/GX470 (aka Prado) rear parking brake service problems? My 70,000 km 2009 4Runner has a strange problem -- with two nuts holding each rear rotor firm to the flange, the left side rear rotor will only rotate by hand in reverse while the passenger's side will only rotate forward with the truck in park, of course (open differential). It won't budge in the direction even with a prybar. The brake shoes and hardware are all original except for brand new O.E. Toyota shoe hold-down pins and springs and retainers. Even the the rotors, pads and shims are O.E. Toyota parts from the dealer with about 10,000 kms on them. The shoe adjusters are well-greased an backed off all the way in and the rotors slide on and off with ease. Everything has high-temp copper grease and the shoes and calipers move around freely. It seems to be only the right side that's acting up. I'm tired of pulling everything apart again to check. A Prado forum thread says that surface rust build up can cause this condition but I don't wanna just put the wheels back on and break something. Any insight? I know the shoes are backed all the way off because the parking brake pedal drops all the way to the floor. I hate rotor-in-hat parking brakes. A service headache in rusty climates. Thank heavens the Tacoma still has drums with automatic slack adjusters.
Common issues as far as the rear seal .the diff vent is always rusted shut .I always make sure the vent cap is free .and changing the bearing sucks
I have a 2020 Tacoma TRD Off-road and the dealership had to replace my rear differential at 6000 miles because it was howling. When the guy drained my Diff he kept a sample and it was black as pitch.
That rear diff should have been making some kind of noise as it was running down on oil.
I hope you didn't confuse the howling with the ac compressor noise that happens upon accelerating. Alot of guys have. And have thrown alot of money at to only find. That it was coming from the ac compressor being on.
@@kgbreviews35 I’m relatively certain that my AC compressor is under the hood while my rear differential is in the rear. I appreciate the attempt to help but I assure you the rear differential was the issue. The noise went away with the new diff and I have been changing the gear oil every 10,000 miles and the noise hasn’t returned.
Still running the original AC compressor.
Gah, flashbacks to the leaking seal on my old 2004 tacoma.
Petr, if you can do a video of when you do an axel seal... that would be so appreciated!
Big thanks to Peter from dubai ... TOYOTA QUALITY 👍👍👍
Awesome as usual! Whether a Tundra or Taco I'm sure it's the same process of elimination. Thanks again 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing this video, interesting problems
Thanks for sharing this video great job 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you Peter.
I did have a suspicion in the beginning that you led me to the trans and you should crack the bolt to check the color of it anyway but my real suspicion was the driveshaft and then diff. But you proved it wasn't one and I am almost certain that diff is dry! They already neglect that rest l rear end! Hopefully that fixes his problem. Aisin makes the trans and they are strong ones that just don't break. This truck may very well end up being one of those million miles tundras. Something like a thousand miles a week is a lot!
My tundra actually has a “shudder” at very low speeds,so I’m definitely gonna have it looked at…thanks Peter for your info,hopefully I can find what’s exactly causing it
Isn't it quite likely that there is some damage in the rear diff since it was running low on oil?
I’m assuming his rear differential oil is really dirty and has never been changed which would have contributed to the leak and problem.
Awesome video. Thank you for your toyota maintenance channel
Good videos
I hope i can bring my car to you sir. I have vibration when acceleration' after alittle bit high rpm the vibration is gone' only when started running like 10 to 20mph. Thank for making video like this.
Well done Peter 👍😊
Thank you
I’ve had this shudder from the day I brought my Tacoma home new. Originally Toyota said the tranny needed to be replaced, but the dealer gave me the run around and stonewalled me for so long I gave up.
Is the vent clogged? The seal is more of a dust seal than a pressure seal. Your viewers always mention the vent and this would be why.
I had that issue before with my 01. The diff breather is in a bad location and gets plugged causing the pressure to build up to the axle seals
Thanks Peter , enjoyed the video, interesting and informative.
I really really like your videos
Only reason I bought it was it’s a double cab Trd or with a manual.
Thanks for sharing this video 👍
I just bought a 19 with 88k miles I thought that was high wow.
Love u videos. Keep up the good work sir. We all appreciate it.
What is going on with quality now. I got 2010 tacoma with 123k miles on it. I got the bad needle bearing i be replacing soon. I work at a shop and had 3 newer tacomas 20,21 and a 22 with shudder on acceleration. Its like where is the quality
Good video. I am having issues with my 14 Tacoma and am not sure what it ia. Had front brake pads replaced and rears adjusted by Toyota dealership back in June. Now I am feeling a chattering/grinding feeling while braking. I have checked the front wheels bearing play and feels good. Going to check rear next. Toyota dealership took test drive and felt nothing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
That truck would benefit with an undercoating oil spray to keep the minimum rust at bay. Rust Check, Fluid Film, or Krown products are all good for that.
I had the same shutter and replaced tranny fluid all was good afterward.
That truck will be around a long time. I would do all the rear axle bearings and seals. I would take a pipe cleaner and see how low that rear diff fluid is. It might need a new rear axle.
Let’s get this channel to 200k subs!!!
Poor Peter, sounds like you're fighting a cold or allergies. Excellent video as always. +++
Ive got an 03 2wd and it does the same shutter or surge on acceleration.. im thinking somewhere in the throttlebody…. Is an odd problem..
Awesome video, thank you very much.
Hello Peter, great video of master mechanic at work! Appreciate your efforts getting information that's crucial to anyone interested. Our 2020 Taco rwd trd is good so far are 33K miles. I plan to drive truck to you for any service needed in future, much respect to you!
He probably should have had the diff fluid changed before now, might have noticed the leak sooner too.
Do you have a video on how to change the transmission fluid as well as the spark plugs?
Blue Devil stop leak fixed a rear axle seal in mine.
Great video, what kind of camcorder do you have? The video quality is great!
Sony A series or similar
where are you located. I want to drive down just to get an inspection by you for my 2002 Tacoma
My 3rd Gen Tacoma is falling apart…front driver wheel bearing, BSM sensor, leaks on the rooftop brake light and weird transmission shifts when it’s cold out. They don’t make these like they use to. 1st and second 2nd generation are built better tbh.
So the chudder is coming from the fact that the oil is low in the diff?
Great video
Hey perhaps you could give me some advice? 2021 Tacoma TRD 2 Wheel Dr. vibration between 15 and 25 mph whether I’m accelerating or stopping. Dealership doesn’t know what to do. They replaced leaf springs but that didn’t help. I noticed whenever I have a load in the truck and it squats at approximately 1 inch there is no more vibration. Any ideas or recommendations?
Hi,Sir. I have a 2016 tacoma off Road with only 68,000 miles when I first start my truck and I go for a ride and I come to a stop my transmission down shit hard then after that it wont do it again but if I park my truck for a little while it will do it again! is only when I come to a stop< also I noticed when the temperature gauge is not in the middle thats where I think the hard shift starts, but when is warm up it wont do it again. any idea will be appreciate it. thanks in advance.
Yep
Question, will the axles seal be on the diff or on the axle shaft?
curious what your thoughts are on changing the trans fluid. toyota says not to. im at 85k now on my 2018 and seriously debating having it done