Good video clip, I do Andersons and some other cup type terminations of that size, with electric heatshrink gun, I have a roll of Tin/Lead 3mm rosin cored solder to fill the cup. I usually tin the wire, but if its clean from stripping as you have shown it will do the job.
Very nice video! Having a small oven (even if it's like 360W) is a godsend on the road. There are small baguette-like breadrolls here called "pistolets" (from Belgium) that fit in these small ovens and it's just a incredible step up to have breakfast with a nice little hot breadroll in the morning, instead of having to find some baker or use stale bread from the day before. You can store them sealed for months without any refrigeration and just absolutely brilliant, as well as of course these little prepared pizza's or small oven dishes. Having a drip tray seems like a good idea down the line so it won't get as gunked up. 2:00 idk if it frustrates me but why cut if off if you're going to later open it up and can just unscrew the terminals anyways? It honestly doesn't matter much since you'll probably end up with the same length of cable since you need to cut it again for proper solder joint but at least there won't be some random stuff in the plug if you want to use it later, or is it like a helper to remind what the polarity used to be? 3:30 why would people be upset on this install? I thought this is basically the way to solder anderson plugs, the torch is getting everything nice and hot so it's not some cold solder job and the solder has perfect chance to penetrate all the strands from the wire to form a solid connection, seems perfect to me. 9:10 depending if you want a place to store or to operate the oven from, but having a heater right under a refrigerator is recipe for a bad time. Only thing I can recommend is to have some kind of voltage regulator before the oven so it cuts off if the source voltage gets too low and that you won't fully drain and kill your batteries if you accidentally leave the oven powered, but depending on the capacity of your "camper" battery this won't be necessary and if you're using it when the sun is out the solar panels have enough capacity to power the oven without even touching the batteries.
I had to pull this out of the "held for review" pile for some reason. Lets go through these items one by one: cutting the plug - No screw terminals inside, and payback to people who complain about minor things all the time Soldering plug: people have complaind before that this is a bad way to do it - citing corrosion risk. Heater under the fridge: that thing above is a boiling vessel, not a fridge, the fridge is on the other side. Regulator: A "regulator" by definition keeps voltage constant from a fluctuating input, probably not what's needed here - you might mean a low voltage cutout. In either case I have 2X135ah AGM batteries in a 24v arrangement, attached to a MPPT solar regulator with 760 watts of solar (90v string), and a 100a secondary 28v alternator, as well as a mains charger for shore power. if I charge nothing, I can run that oven for 22 hours solid - by which time the sun will have come up, and I can put 30 amps back in, therefore, I could in theory run it infinitely. The vehicle is a 6x6 military ambulance, 12v start, 24v auxiliary. if that system goes flat, it doesn't stop me driving away.
@@TheAussieRepairGuy Yeah youtube doesn't like me, even though my account is pretty old now they just like to shadowdelete or hold for review about 1 in 10 comments. Also oh yeah, no worries there with capacity there. I was thinking more of the context of my mums VW van that's been converted into a camper, it has two maybe 12V 90Ah batteries on two separate circuits, one for engine and one for the rest, so a 360W oven (as if the 12v circuit could handle 30A continous load) would nuke that pretty fast. You could still start the engine since it wouldn't be connected to the rest of the circuit, but you would probably destroy or damage the board battery running it that low. But two batteries in series at 24v135ah is a ridiculous amount of wattage. About the fridge, I meant you pointed out two possible locations for the oven, one below the boiling vessel and one below the fridge, my comment relating to the latter location.
@@bami2 there's a longer video scheduled in the coming days that shows the build. Tomorrow morning there's a long form that shows it in use in the field. It's about 144 watts by the way.
RELIGIOUSLY watches your videos. Especially the electronics and landy videos, plus the argo ones! ❤
There's some bigger and longer ones coming. Just finished a 20 min cut tonight. Videos scheduled into september now
Good video clip, I do Andersons and some other cup type terminations of that size, with electric heatshrink gun, I have a roll of Tin/Lead 3mm rosin cored solder to fill the cup.
I usually tin the wire, but if its clean from stripping as you have shown it will do the job.
Yeah the one time I don't tin the wire, everyone notices lol.
I'm looking into solder slugs for jobs like this.
Very nice video!
Having a small oven (even if it's like 360W) is a godsend on the road. There are small baguette-like breadrolls here called "pistolets" (from Belgium) that fit in these small ovens and it's just a incredible step up to have breakfast with a nice little hot breadroll in the morning, instead of having to find some baker or use stale bread from the day before. You can store them sealed for months without any refrigeration and just absolutely brilliant, as well as of course these little prepared pizza's or small oven dishes. Having a drip tray seems like a good idea down the line so it won't get as gunked up.
2:00 idk if it frustrates me but why cut if off if you're going to later open it up and can just unscrew the terminals anyways? It honestly doesn't matter much since you'll probably end up with the same length of cable since you need to cut it again for proper solder joint but at least there won't be some random stuff in the plug if you want to use it later, or is it like a helper to remind what the polarity used to be?
3:30 why would people be upset on this install? I thought this is basically the way to solder anderson plugs, the torch is getting everything nice and hot so it's not some cold solder job and the solder has perfect chance to penetrate all the strands from the wire to form a solid connection, seems perfect to me.
9:10 depending if you want a place to store or to operate the oven from, but having a heater right under a refrigerator is recipe for a bad time.
Only thing I can recommend is to have some kind of voltage regulator before the oven so it cuts off if the source voltage gets too low and that you won't fully drain and kill your batteries if you accidentally leave the oven powered, but depending on the capacity of your "camper" battery this won't be necessary and if you're using it when the sun is out the solar panels have enough capacity to power the oven without even touching the batteries.
I had to pull this out of the "held for review" pile for some reason.
Lets go through these items one by one:
cutting the plug - No screw terminals inside, and payback to people who complain about minor things all the time
Soldering plug: people have complaind before that this is a bad way to do it - citing corrosion risk.
Heater under the fridge: that thing above is a boiling vessel, not a fridge, the fridge is on the other side.
Regulator: A "regulator" by definition keeps voltage constant from a fluctuating input, probably not what's needed here - you might mean a low voltage cutout.
In either case I have 2X135ah AGM batteries in a 24v arrangement, attached to a MPPT solar regulator with 760 watts of solar (90v string), and a 100a secondary 28v alternator, as well as a mains charger for shore power.
if I charge nothing, I can run that oven for 22 hours solid - by which time the sun will have come up, and I can put 30 amps back in, therefore, I could in theory run it infinitely.
The vehicle is a 6x6 military ambulance, 12v start, 24v auxiliary. if that system goes flat, it doesn't stop me driving away.
@@TheAussieRepairGuy Yeah youtube doesn't like me, even though my account is pretty old now they just like to shadowdelete or hold for review about 1 in 10 comments.
Also oh yeah, no worries there with capacity there. I was thinking more of the context of my mums VW van that's been converted into a camper, it has two maybe 12V 90Ah batteries on two separate circuits, one for engine and one for the rest, so a 360W oven (as if the 12v circuit could handle 30A continous load) would nuke that pretty fast. You could still start the engine since it wouldn't be connected to the rest of the circuit, but you would probably destroy or damage the board battery running it that low. But two batteries in series at 24v135ah is a ridiculous amount of wattage.
About the fridge, I meant you pointed out two possible locations for the oven, one below the boiling vessel and one below the fridge, my comment relating to the latter location.
@@bami2 there's a longer video scheduled in the coming days that shows the build. Tomorrow morning there's a long form that shows it in use in the field.
It's about 144 watts by the way.
@@bami2 the 12v versions are 100 watt, website says 8.3 amps.