*I know all the natural notes from my vintage perfumes and that's why it's difficult for me to find somethging I really love nowadays. There is nothing like natural notes. Natural Oakmoss is divine.*
Funny you bring this point up Agnes. I just found the best shop here in Portland that specializes in vintage men's cologne. The vintage gentlemen took me through about ten oakmoss based fragrances. I am slowly buying one by one in order of stock they have left. They are very good perfumes, nothing like original formulas.
I would trade Fougere L''aube with Mousse Illuminee. Oops chose the wrong one. I like Chypre siam over Fougere and every time I reach for Fougere I end up wearing Chypre Siam. Lessons learned.
What you said about enjoying it more each time you wore it, several fragrances from Rogue are like that. At first, you think they’re just ok. After a few wearings, you really start to get what the scent is delivering and the ‘ok’ turns into ‘OMG this is incredible’.
I think it's being so used to oakmoss being replicated and I can't stand modern versions. So when I apply the real thing my brain thinks it's going to be the modern garbage and then the real deal shows you why it's is such a mainstay in perfumery. This can't be replaced. It's a sad day that this ingredient is being banned by IFRA. We really need to back companies like rogue with are pockets. While he is fighting a big machine.
@@TherapeuticFragrance Completely agree. IFRA are far too heavy handed. Hopefully this encourages others to make the fragrance they want. Not the fragrance IFRA allows them to make.
Very true, first fragrance my mom bought me at the grocery store. I was convinced it was a kids version and went a compared every wording with mine and my grandpas whose bottle was heavier and oh so much older. And smelled a hundred times better.
This sounds amazing! I struggle with Mitsouko because of the boiled peanut whiff (the EDP is less peanutty than the EDT) I smell in it, but otherwise, I love old school chypre perfumes.
Therapeutic Fragrance Not that I’m aware of, the bottles I have are fairly recent formuations. I’ve considered splurging on a vintage bottle because I’d love to know how it used to smell.
There is a website here in Australia called LKNU, they had a 15% father's day sale and I blind bought this after watching your video. Thanks for it. It has grown on me in 3-4 wearings. I am just entering the natural perfumery world and I feel like the bottle has also improved after opening. I might be overthinking though. I was wondering if you have used Chypre Palatin too. Please review that if possible. It would be great to see what you think of it.
Who does Chypre Palatin, not familiar. I am always open to all things Chypre. Chypre Siam is the one to go for. Depending if perfumer let it rest or not properlty, the first six weeks are critical for a composition. After that depending on ingredients used it does change. Fortunately you lose citrus and hope they only fade for the most part this has been my experience. But your heavy base layers turn to majic and only conitinue to beautify everything in the bottle thoughout time. Must be stored properly. No sunlight cool as possible.
Hey Peter, Haven't tried MDCI. I know there latest release were not that well received by many. Oakmoss is pretty much banned in any IFRA compositions one reason Chypre Siam stands out and the old school aroma chemicals. I have been on a vintage kick for Chypre finding the old ones that contain heavy oakmoss that are still very affordable, just takes some looking. Two modern Chypre's if you haven't tried is Bogue MAAI (especially since you love MEM) and Kolonya by Rasei Fort. They are a lot different without heavy oak moss, but two of my favorite Chypre's. My classics video contains some great stuff also of some vintages I picked up.
Therapeutic Fragrance yea makes sense-using more traditional aromachemicals means the Rogues should be more true to form. I have and enjoy current Mitsouko EDP (which I understand took some clever alchemy from Wasser to simulate real oak moss), but it’s not quite a love yet. Hopeful Rogue resonates with me. When I got MEM, I unexpectedly received several samples from the house, including MAAI-it’s a gorgeous one full of smoke, florals, and greenery. Smells organic and alive-shifting and natural. Currently my top chypre contender right now. Kolonya is on my list too!
Therapeutic Fragrance got the Rogue sample set and sampled two thus far: Chypre-Siam and Mousse Illuminae-have to say I vastly prefer the former. C-S is downright gorgeous and beautifully blended-looking forward to doing some side-by-sides with MAAI, Mitsouko, and Civet from my current stash. MI unfortunately reminds me of a hamster cage from childhood-the cedar wood chips for its bedding, the green pellets and frozen vegetables for its food, and the fuzzy musks from the animal itself. Like Dodo, this is another otherwise quality fragrance marred by a past memory-interestingly both from pets growing up. 🤷🏻♂️
Love the Illuminae write up I need to laugh every once in awhile. Like I mentioned in my awards video I did over react to this house. I'm sure it's because of the non-infra stance. The Chypre Siam is the star and I wear mine quite often. It really is a stunning remake of a classic profile. I haven't tried the Rogue40 either.
Chypre Siam holds up I love it. Just don't go into the rest of the line with me. I called Fouger L'aube in my reasons list the one review I wish I could take back.
*True. Bergamot and Oakmoss make a good couple. And the kids could be pine, cedar and vetiver.*
Don't forget the cousins lavendar and labdanum.
*I know all the natural notes from my vintage perfumes and that's why it's difficult for me to find somethging I really love nowadays. There is nothing like natural notes. Natural Oakmoss is divine.*
Funny you bring this point up Agnes. I just found the best shop here in Portland that specializes in vintage men's cologne. The vintage gentlemen took me through about ten oakmoss based fragrances. I am slowly buying one by one in order of stock they have left. They are very good perfumes, nothing like original formulas.
Ah, this is so so good, so natural smelling and authentic. It doesn't get much better than this.
Definitely loaded with some heavy naturals including a massive dose of good old fashioned oakmoses.
Amazing review, I really like your style! Have Mousse Illuminee and I love it, one of the best releases of the last few years
I would trade Fougere L''aube with Mousse Illuminee. Oops chose the wrong one. I like Chypre siam over Fougere and every time I reach for Fougere I end up wearing Chypre Siam. Lessons learned.
What you said about enjoying it more each time you wore it, several fragrances from Rogue are like that. At first, you think they’re just ok. After a few wearings, you really start to get what the scent is delivering and the ‘ok’ turns into ‘OMG this is incredible’.
I think it's being so used to oakmoss being replicated and I can't stand modern versions. So when I apply the real thing my brain thinks it's going to be the modern garbage and then the real deal shows you why it's is such a mainstay in perfumery. This can't be replaced. It's a sad day that this ingredient is being banned by IFRA. We really need to back companies like rogue with are pockets. While he is fighting a big machine.
@@TherapeuticFragrance Completely agree. IFRA are far too heavy handed. Hopefully this encourages others to make the fragrance they want. Not the fragrance IFRA allows them to make.
*I have two vintage Mitsouko :)*
This is something I wan to try in a bad way.
*I NEED THIS! GREAT REVIEW!*
I think you would love this.
Nearly every household had Old Spice.
Very true, first fragrance my mom bought me at the grocery store. I was convinced it was a kids version and went a compared every wording with mine and my grandpas whose bottle was heavier and oh so much older. And smelled a hundred times better.
@@TherapeuticFragrance Nice. 💪🏽
*YUZU is my favorite citrus in openings. The Miyake Yuzu is fantastic. :)*
This might be the Miyake to try. I agree with you about Yuzu.
This sounds amazing! I struggle with Mitsouko because of the boiled peanut whiff (the EDP is less peanutty than the EDT) I smell in it, but otherwise, I love old school chypre perfumes.
Is the boiled peanut note in vintage Mitsouko also?
Therapeutic Fragrance Not that I’m aware of, the bottles I have are fairly recent formuations. I’ve considered splurging on a vintage bottle because I’d love to know how it used to smell.
Be careful on vintage I have been burned twice both off of ebay by very reputable sellers. I honestly thing they didn't even know.
Just received a decant of chypre lovely stuff
Old school aroma chemicals at there best:)
There is a website here in Australia called LKNU, they had a 15% father's day sale and I blind bought this after watching your video. Thanks for it. It has grown on me in 3-4 wearings. I am just entering the natural perfumery world and I feel like the bottle has also improved after opening. I might be overthinking though.
I was wondering if you have used Chypre Palatin too. Please review that if possible. It would be great to see what you think of it.
Who does Chypre Palatin, not familiar. I am always open to all things Chypre. Chypre Siam is the one to go for. Depending if perfumer let it rest or not properlty, the first six weeks are critical for a composition. After that depending on ingredients used it does change. Fortunately you lose citrus and hope they only fade for the most part this has been my experience. But your heavy base layers turn to majic and only conitinue to beautify everything in the bottle thoughout time. Must be stored properly. No sunlight cool as possible.
@@TherapeuticFragrance great explanation, thanks. Chypre Palatin is my MDCI. Would be interesting to know your view on that.
I still have to try MDCI. It's on my list I will add this if it is available as sample on next order.
*FIRST!*
Wearing as I watch! Chypre Siam I mean
Very Nice, what do you think of it? I am amzed at it's staying power.
So how does this stack up against Chypre Palatin from MDCI? Trying to get a list of must-try chypres for 2020...
Hey Peter, Haven't tried MDCI. I know there latest release were not that well received by many. Oakmoss is pretty much banned in any IFRA compositions one reason Chypre Siam stands out and the old school aroma chemicals. I have been on a vintage kick for Chypre finding the old ones that contain heavy oakmoss that are still very affordable, just takes some looking.
Two modern Chypre's if you haven't tried is Bogue MAAI (especially since you love MEM) and Kolonya by Rasei Fort. They are a lot different without heavy oak moss, but two of my favorite Chypre's. My classics video contains some great stuff also of some vintages I picked up.
Therapeutic Fragrance yea makes sense-using more traditional aromachemicals means the Rogues should be more true to form. I have and enjoy current Mitsouko EDP (which I understand took some clever alchemy from Wasser to simulate real oak moss), but it’s not quite a love yet. Hopeful Rogue resonates with me.
When I got MEM, I unexpectedly received several samples from the house, including MAAI-it’s a gorgeous one full of smoke, florals, and greenery. Smells organic and alive-shifting and natural. Currently my top chypre contender right now. Kolonya is on my list too!
Therapeutic Fragrance got the Rogue sample set and sampled two thus far: Chypre-Siam and Mousse Illuminae-have to say I vastly prefer the former. C-S is downright gorgeous and beautifully blended-looking forward to doing some side-by-sides with MAAI, Mitsouko, and Civet from my current stash.
MI unfortunately reminds me of a hamster cage from childhood-the cedar wood chips for its bedding, the green pellets and frozen vegetables for its food, and the fuzzy musks from the animal itself. Like Dodo, this is another otherwise quality fragrance marred by a past memory-interestingly both from pets growing up. 🤷🏻♂️
Love the Illuminae write up I need to laugh every once in awhile. Like I mentioned in my awards video I did over react to this house. I'm sure it's because of the non-infra stance. The Chypre Siam is the star and I wear mine quite often. It really is a stunning remake of a classic profile. I haven't tried the Rogue40 either.
Been a few months. How are you liking it now?
I recently tried a sample. Beautiful scent. Leans a bit too feminine. Floral notes are very strong.
Chypre Siam holds up I love it. Just don't go into the rest of the line with me. I called Fouger L'aube in my reasons list the one review I wish I could take back.
*I think you've made me develop a severe hair fetish.*
Agnes Eva He does have quite the luxurious coif!
Yes. I can barely concentrate on the review. He has fantastic hair. @@Action_Slacks
@@Action_Slacks Poor guy... women just come here because of his looks. How shallow we just are! ROFL!
You two have me blushing through the internet.