Worn down plastic on mine too. Instead of bending the arm with a heat gun, I instead rebuilt the missing plastic in the groove with super glue and baking soda (the baking soda instantly dries the glue) and then filed down any bumps leftover from the hardened glue. I added a bit of lubricant as well and my dryer heats again. Thanks for the video!
Glad it helped. Timers are stupid expensive for what they are! Not to mention the fact that the manufacturers are using weaker plastics and less lubrication. For all the money we pay for these appliances they really ought to last better. I guess it gives engineer's a job to keep reinventing the wheel over and over but sometimes I think they come out of school with no kind of real-world experience and then things like this happen.
This is the 2nd video of yours I've watched on DIY repairs. The first was on a control board for an Amana/Whirlpool washer that I fixed with your help. Now it's time to tackle my no heat issue on a Whirlpool dryer. All the heat related items checked out for continuity and ohms at the element, so it's gotta be the timer. Thank you for sharing your experiences they are a great help to those of us on very limited budgets.
Thank you for this video!! This thankfully worked for me, I’m a stay at home mom with no type of experience in this Field and I was able to do this just following your very detailed instructions! Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge :)
Glad it helped you out! It is never my goal to post a video about something that others have already made good videos about rather to post the weird stuff that I discover a cause and fix for and wasn't able to find on RUclips or online anywhere 😊
Thank you so much for this video. This was exactly what was wrong with my dryer. You saved me time and a big headache of trying to get my rental management company to come fix or replace my dryer. If we ever cross paths I will buy you a beer (or coffee....incase you don't drink). 👇👌👍👏🤝😁 Thanks A Bunch!!!!!!
back in the day they had metal stems, heavy contacts , they lasted 20 years.. glad im out of appliance repair. the contacts used to have a thick pad of silver on them, not sure what they use now.. once the contact surface pits and burns it will quickly weld itself together or arc and build slag and not make contact.. also, the dryer motors dont have solid copper windings anymore, they are copper coated.. the paint on the drums peels off, the belts are junk and dont last 3 years, the metal in the rollers is junk pot metal, the case of the dryer is sharp and cuts u to shred when working on them.. its sad to see whirlpool go down so much, I used to love them, but I guess to compete with the chinese and korean junk market, they had to cut costs.excellent video and repair !!! thanks.. my timer was very hard to turn, I think there was lint stuck between the stem and the case, but im going to lube it up with some vaseline just to make sure it doesnt bind up or wear the levers.
Glad it's saved you some money! As an observation the newer versions of this timer use a different type of thermoplastic for the cam arms. I think it is a material that is more resistant to wear and I never see a groove in any of that material. Really stinks that they didn't issue a recall to replace the affected timers for customers. Of course, something like that the average person would never know. Only people who work on appliances would ever realize it and even then many wouldn't even bother to take the timer apart and look at the guts, just replace it. Over the years I have seen so many bad design things and the people that pay for it are the customers, they just have to eat it oblivious to the fact they've been screwed. Only if it's something visible like moldy door boots in the Maytag Neptunes or spider arms that corrode and break in the Samsung washers do people even get on to the idea that there is a common problem they can go after. Anyway, glad I could help you fix it!
Hi! I have a whirlpool dryer that heats just fine, have never had any problem with the heat working, however the timer won't work at all. Literally the dryer would run for hours and never stop if we didn't physically turn it off. Do you have a suggestion for this kind of problem?
There is a little motor on the back of the timer which might be bad. Either the motor coil is open circuit or the gears inside the unit are stripped. When you go to set the time on the dryer do you feel the normal amount of resistance of turning the timer around or is it very easy to turn? If it is very easy to turn that may suggest that the clutch inside the timer that engages with the motor is stripped or broken.
Hey must say a very well explained video having an issue with a drier change the selector and the drier works now and there is no heat but before I changed it there was heat checked all the sensor to the back and it's ok any thoughts
Make sure your heating element is not open. You should get continuity with an ohm meter across the two big terminals of the heating element. If you are very comfortable around electricity you can try turning the dryer on and while it's running make sure you measure 220 volts at the two terminals of the heating element with your meter on AC volts. This is very dangerous to do and you could get a shock or be killed if you don't know how to do it safely. The heating element is in series with the thermostat right next to the terminals and also with the high limit fuse located at the top of the heat duct. If either of those two are open then you won't get any heat either.
Anyone know where I can buy replacement cams? My bottom ring cam broke but I cant find any good part sources. Everyone just wants to sell you the whole switch
Yeah that's what I found as well. There is a little latch finger on each cam that breaks if the user repeatedly turns the timer backwards (counterclockwise) to set the cycle. Doing that eventually breaks the finger on the can and it falls off. I have had success putting the cam back on the drum and using a little JB weld to fill in the space where the latch finger used to be. I put a piece of tape behind the gap in the cam to keep the JB weld from oozing out before it sets. After it's cured you can pull the piece of tape out and put everything back together. Remember to use a little bit of grease like lubriplate on the lobes of the cam to reduce the friction of the levers riding the cam. If you want I can look at my box of stuff and see if I have what you need. If you give me the part numbers from your timer I will look and see if I have one for parts that has a good cam in it
Sounds like the timer motor isn't running. Does the dryer run at all? Some dryers will run but not heat if the thermal fuse is blown due to excessive lint and/or clogged exhaust.
@@whuzup3 If you have a multimeter, check very carefully on ac volts on the two wires to the motor when the dryer is running on the timed drying cycle (not the auto dry cycle). While unplugged, look for the voltage printed on the motor to see if it says 110 or 220 volts and see if that voltage is being supplied to the motor while the dryer is running on the timed drying cycle. If you do have voltage but the timer does not advance the motor or gears within the motor are likely bad. The reason I say check this on a timed vs. The auto dry cycle is that the timer does not run all the time rather the motor receives power only when the dryer reaches a high enough temperature, causing the timer motor to run in on and off cycles until the cycle completes.
@@PAballoonists I have a multimeter and will check the voltage. We only use the timed cycle when we dry clothes so I've never tried on the auto cycle. I tested and read 220 at the wall receptacle.
Worn down plastic on mine too. Instead of bending the arm with a heat gun, I instead rebuilt the missing plastic in the groove with super glue and baking soda (the baking soda instantly dries the glue) and then filed down any bumps leftover from the hardened glue. I added a bit of lubricant as well and my dryer heats again. Thanks for the video!
Glad it helped. Timers are stupid expensive for what they are! Not to mention the fact that the manufacturers are using weaker plastics and less lubrication. For all the money we pay for these appliances they really ought to last better. I guess it gives engineer's a job to keep reinventing the wheel over and over but sometimes I think they come out of school with no kind of real-world experience and then things like this happen.
This is the 2nd video of yours I've watched on DIY repairs. The first was on a control board for an Amana/Whirlpool washer that I fixed with your help. Now it's time to tackle my no heat issue on a Whirlpool dryer. All the heat related items checked out for continuity and ohms at the element, so it's gotta be the timer. Thank you for sharing your experiences they are a great help to those of us on very limited budgets.
Thank you for this video!! This thankfully worked for me, I’m a stay at home mom with no type of experience in this Field and I was able to do this just following your very detailed instructions! Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge :)
So glad it helped you! That's what it's all about - helping each other out! Good luck to your family!
Outstanding How-To video. Best one I've seen on this subject. Love how you explained everything. thank you thank you
Glad it helped you out! It is never my goal to post a video about something that others have already made good videos about rather to post the weird stuff that I discover a cause and fix for and wasn't able to find on RUclips or online anywhere 😊
Thank you so much for this video. This was exactly what was wrong with my dryer. You saved me time and a big headache of trying to get my rental management company to come fix or replace my dryer. If we ever cross paths I will buy you a beer (or coffee....incase you don't drink). 👇👌👍👏🤝😁
Thanks A Bunch!!!!!!
So glad it helped you out!
back in the day they had metal stems, heavy contacts , they lasted 20 years.. glad im out of appliance repair. the contacts used to have a thick pad of silver on them, not sure what they use now.. once the contact surface pits and burns it will quickly weld itself together or arc and build slag and not make contact.. also, the dryer motors dont have solid copper windings anymore, they are copper coated.. the paint on the drums peels off, the belts are junk and dont last 3 years, the metal in the rollers is junk pot metal, the case of the dryer is sharp and cuts u to shred when working on them.. its sad to see whirlpool go down so much, I used to love them, but I guess to compete with the chinese and korean junk market, they had to cut costs.excellent video and repair !!! thanks..
my timer was very hard to turn, I think there was lint stuck between the stem and the case, but im going to lube it up with some vaseline just to make sure it doesnt bind up or wear the levers.
This video is great! Very detailed. This is exactly what was wrong with my dryer. I'm not sure how much money you just saved me but thank you!
Same thing with mine.
See people say in the comments that they are around $80.
So glad it helped you out!
Muchas gracias!!!!! Thank you!!! Just repair my dryer with this video!!!
Worked like a charm!
Well played. Great video.
Glad it's saved you some money! As an observation the newer versions of this timer use a different type of thermoplastic for the cam arms. I think it is a material that is more resistant to wear and I never see a groove in any of that material. Really stinks that they didn't issue a recall to replace the affected timers for customers. Of course, something like that the average person would never know. Only people who work on appliances would ever realize it and even then many wouldn't even bother to take the timer apart and look at the guts, just replace it. Over the years I have seen so many bad design things and the people that pay for it are the customers, they just have to eat it oblivious to the fact they've been screwed. Only if it's something visible like moldy door boots in the Maytag Neptunes or spider arms that corrode and break in the Samsung washers do people even get on to the idea that there is a common problem they can go after. Anyway, glad I could help you fix it!
Thanks for sharing sir, I’m greatly appreciate you time and dedication to make this video.
Like and sub.👍
Good Stuff, Thanks!
My dryer's heat works, but the cool down cycles and air dry without heat don't work. Any idea what the issue would be? Thanks
Hi! I have a whirlpool dryer that heats just fine, have never had any problem with the heat working, however the timer won't work at all. Literally the dryer would run for hours and never stop if we didn't physically turn it off. Do you have a suggestion for this kind of problem?
There is a little motor on the back of the timer which might be bad. Either the motor coil is open circuit or the gears inside the unit are stripped. When you go to set the time on the dryer do you feel the normal amount of resistance of turning the timer around or is it very easy to turn? If it is very easy to turn that may suggest that the clutch inside the timer that engages with the motor is stripped or broken.
Hey must say a very well explained video having an issue with a drier change the selector and the drier works now and there is no heat but before I changed it there was heat checked all the sensor to the back and it's ok any thoughts
Make sure your heating element is not open. You should get continuity with an ohm meter across the two big terminals of the heating element. If you are very comfortable around electricity you can try turning the dryer on and while it's running make sure you measure 220 volts at the two terminals of the heating element with your meter on AC volts. This is very dangerous to do and you could get a shock or be killed if you don't know how to do it safely. The heating element is in series with the thermostat right next to the terminals and also with the high limit fuse located at the top of the heat duct. If either of those two are open then you won't get any heat either.
@@PAballoonists hey thanks for the info
i just put a drop of uv resin in the little groove and fixed mine without the need for heat,
How do you know the right position for the wheel?
The programming wheels are "keyed" so they only go in one way and therefore there is no gear or cam timing you need to worry about
Anyone know where I can buy replacement cams? My bottom ring cam broke but I cant find any good part sources. Everyone just wants to sell you the whole switch
Yeah that's what I found as well. There is a little latch finger on each cam that breaks if the user repeatedly turns the timer backwards (counterclockwise) to set the cycle. Doing that eventually breaks the finger on the can and it falls off. I have had success putting the cam back on the drum and using a little JB weld to fill in the space where the latch finger used to be. I put a piece of tape behind the gap in the cam to keep the JB weld from oozing out before it sets. After it's cured you can pull the piece of tape out and put everything back together. Remember to use a little bit of grease like lubriplate on the lobes of the cam to reduce the friction of the levers riding the cam. If you want I can look at my box of stuff and see if I have what you need. If you give me the part numbers from your timer I will look and see if I have one for parts that has a good cam in it
@@PAballoonists thanks for the offer I really appreciate it! But I ended up biting the bullet and bought a whole switch.
What if the timer won't advance and there's no heat?
Sounds like the timer motor isn't running. Does the dryer run at all? Some dryers will run but not heat if the thermal fuse is blown due to excessive lint and/or clogged exhaust.
@@PAballoonists it started heating but the timer still won't advance. May be the timer motor itself. Thanks for replying👍
@@whuzup3 If you have a multimeter, check very carefully on ac volts on the two wires to the motor when the dryer is running on the timed drying cycle (not the auto dry cycle). While unplugged, look for the voltage printed on the motor to see if it says 110 or 220 volts and see if that voltage is being supplied to the motor while the dryer is running on the timed drying cycle. If you do have voltage but the timer does not advance the motor or gears within the motor are likely bad. The reason I say check this on a timed vs. The auto dry cycle is that the timer does not run all the time rather the motor receives power only when the dryer reaches a high enough temperature, causing the timer motor to run in on and off cycles until the cycle completes.
@@PAballoonists I have a multimeter and will check the voltage. We only use the timed cycle when we dry clothes so I've never tried on the auto cycle. I tested and read 220 at the wall receptacle.
those timers are turds and its 135 bucks for a new turd.