It's not personal preference. It is a fact that it is unsafe to use scotchlock style connectors compared to solder or at least butt connectors in this application.
Hey! Looky! He is using a "Real" wire crimper. Not one of those kit wanna-be-krimper that only smashes the connector. Now explaining that would had made this video over the top. This is still a good demonstration. I would let this guy work on my trailer.👍 Something I have "very" recently discovered regards the colored sleeves around the connector. If you carefully heat it up, (DO NOT start it flaming) the indent will recover back to normal. Apparently it is not just a piece of plastic...well, maybe on the cheap ones...
To wire in both sides of the brakes you use scotch locks. The wire does not have to be cut in order to splice in with a scotch lock. The 2 brake wires tied into the loop on the side where the wire was first run with scotch locks. The second brake was spliced in at the end of the wire (as seen in video). On a dual-axle system, you would run one big loop and use scotch locks to splice in at each brake. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
@zapityzapzap The 7-pole connector was a choice. The main tow vehicle had a 7-pole connector so, the 7-pole was put on the tailer to match the truck end. The trailer 7-pole was only using 6 of the functions at the time. Many people install a 7-way if they ever think there is a possibility of needing reverse lights or a reverse lockout. Others have it so they can have more than one 12v source for the trailer. Some have a 7-way simply because it is always easier to adapt sown to a smaller plug.
@markeyjames22 For WI weather conditions, the best way to splice wires would be solder the wires together with a soldering iron. Then, use appropriate sized heat shrink wrap to cover and protect the connection. Heat shrink wrap is placed over the connection, heated and then shrinks down to cover the connection and seal out water. For one more layer of protection, you could wrap the heat shrink and wiring with a few layers of electrical tape. Your wires should be completely protected this way!
@fomoco300k It is not the Romex used in homes. It can be used for trailer lights, however, 3 wires are needed to carry signal and one wire for ground so typically the bonded 4 color wire is used in that application. Let me know if you have any other questions, I would be glad to help!
I hate scotch lock connections they always fail eventually. You can buy 200 heat shrink connectors that have solder in them for $12, and they are water tite.
Assuming you have a 4-pole connection, you would need to take the 4-pole off and replace it with a 7-way connector. Then, run the brake wire lead from the pin labeled "Blue" out to the brake assemblies.
One thing he didn't mention was check for wear or an edge on the spindle. If the old bearings were worn too far down and bit into the metal then you need to change the spindle also. Or you will be singing "O why did you leave me loose wheel.." lol
This video on wring the trailer is terrific. It will help me alot. Being a novice to this I have this question. When you ran the wire over to the passenger side and zip-tied it to the axle, then you left a loop and ran the rest to the front of the trailer. How did you connect both sides of the trailer brakes? Are they all spliced together? How will this work on a 2 axle system? thanks in advance.
Good video. Do you not have to pound/press in the inner seal into the hub? A little unclear what you do at the brake where the wire continues to the other side. How do you splice it with it continuing on? Also how do you typically route the wiring for tandem axles?
The seal will need to be tapped into the hub. The brakes wires can be wired in a T and continued on to the next. Running the wires is going to be different for each trailer. You just want to run the wires where they will be safe and out of the way. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-26.html
We are happy to help! Check out the following links to see more information on this trailer brake kit and wiring. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-27.html www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Deka/10-2-1.html
is that Romex wire like you would use in a house that you are using to wire the brakes? ifso, do you use that for the lights as well or do you use the brown/green/yellow/white that comes typical to most wiring kits. (Have seen some people use old extension cords for the lights.)
thestigmach1 I would not use the word split personally. For the initial side you would have the wires from the plug, 2 wires going to the other side and 2 wires going to each hub. For a total of 4 wires of each power and ground. On the second side you will have 3 of each for brakes on 2 axles.
The ground wire from the trailer brakes will need to grounded to the frame and the ground wire coming out of the 7 pole will need to be grounded to the frame for the brakes and any other lights that are on the trailer. www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
It is always recommended to have trailer brakes for all of the trailer axles when brakes are required, but if you have to choose one axle it would be better to have them on the front axle.
@@etrailer This is contrary to other advice as having only on front axle will cause rear axle to "lift" at equalizer when brakes are applied. Better to have brakes on rear axle if only on one.
We did not install a junction box on this trailer but we highly recommend installing one if you are redoing the wiring on your trailer. www.etrailer.com/Wiring/etrailer/e99011.html
I don't get how you ended up with a two wire romex on the right side when you show a 6 or 7 wire jacketed wire(s) when you're tying into the main coupler??? It looked like it showed you passing the main line all the way back to that right wheel in the beginning, then you showed a 2 wire at the brake, and then it was back to the full harness. What's up with that?
One of the wires on the brake assembly needs to be connected to power and the other one needs to be connected to ground. The polarity doesn't matter for brake assemblies so either wire and be connected to either function. Normally you would tie the brakes on one side of your trailer to the main 6-Way or 7-Way and then route some wiring over for the other side of the trailer. Here is a link to a helpful article that has a wiring diagram that you can check out www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
We no longer use those types of connections. This video was filmed a good while ago. We only use heat shrink butt connectors on installations that we do. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-26.html
We have not had the opportunity to do an installation on a 1981 Ford F350 but the installation should be very similar to that of a 1991. You would need part # 118313 to get a 4 pole connection at the rear of the vehicle and then use # ETBC7 to get your 7 pole connection. I have linked both of the product pages in the following links. www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118313.html www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/etrailer/ETBC7.html
Scotch Locks should never be used on something as critical as brake wiring. I would think you guy's would know how to do it correctly but apparently not.
Scotch locks are not great. Especially around here with salt air, they are garbage. Solder, heat shrink, and black tape, or 2 years something is not working. I am doing a trailer at this time, that was done 2 years ago, half the lights were not working, and no brakes. Also I do not agree with the bearing tightening. Should always over tighten, a bit on new bearings, 2 or 3 times, to work them in. Then tighten until they drag, then back off until they spin with wheel on freely.
They're not the ideal way to make those connections, but they are just about the easiest to use. If the user has the ability, we recommend soldering the connections and protecting them with heat shrink tubing. This being said, not everyone knows how to solder.
I would have to agree with you but with all things considered that is one of our older videos. We have a much better video on how to get your 7-pole wired up here www.etrailer.com/tv-review-etrailer-trailer-wiring-7-way-upgrade-kit-et7wk.aspx
It's not personal preference. It is a fact that it is unsafe to use scotchlock style connectors compared to solder or at least butt connectors in this application.
I'm happy to hear our videos are helping you out! Please let us know if there is anything else you would like a video of.
Thanks! After watching this video, my electric brake install was a breeze!
Good video, but lost me at the end, didn't show or say where the Brake wires went to, still trying to figure this out
Hey! Looky! He is using a "Real" wire crimper. Not one of those kit wanna-be-krimper that only smashes the connector.
Now explaining that would had made this video over the top. This is still a good demonstration.
I would let this guy work on my trailer.👍
Something I have "very" recently discovered regards the colored sleeves around the connector.
If you carefully heat it up, (DO NOT start it flaming) the indent will recover back to normal.
Apparently it is not just a piece of plastic...well, maybe on the cheap ones...
To wire in both sides of the brakes you use scotch locks. The wire does not have to be cut in order to splice in with a scotch lock. The 2 brake wires tied into the loop on the side where the wire was first run with scotch locks. The second brake was spliced in at the end of the wire (as seen in video). On a dual-axle system, you would run one big loop and use scotch locks to splice in at each brake. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
@zapityzapzap The 7-pole connector was a choice. The main tow vehicle had a 7-pole connector so, the 7-pole was put on the tailer to match the truck end. The trailer 7-pole was only using 6 of the functions at the time. Many people install a 7-way if they ever think there is a possibility of needing reverse lights or a reverse lockout. Others have it so they can have more than one 12v source for the trailer. Some have a 7-way simply because it is always easier to adapt sown to a smaller plug.
@markeyjames22 For WI weather conditions, the best way to splice wires would be solder the wires together with a soldering iron. Then, use appropriate sized heat shrink wrap to cover and protect the connection. Heat shrink wrap is placed over the connection, heated and then shrinks down to cover the connection and seal out water. For one more layer of protection, you could wrap the heat shrink and wiring with a few layers of electrical tape. Your wires should be completely protected this way!
And then cover with the plastic wire loom to help keep the rabbits from chewing on wires for an additional layer of protection.
Did you forget to tell us which color in the trailer plug was the brake wire or did I just miss it.
@fomoco300k It is not the Romex used in homes. It can be used for trailer lights, however, 3 wires are needed to carry signal and one wire for ground so typically the bonded 4 color wire is used in that application. Let me know if you have any other questions, I would be glad to help!
@littlefred811 I'm glad it was helpful! Let us know if you ever have any questions.
I will pass on your suggestion to our video people to see what we can do!
I hate scotch lock connections they always fail eventually. You can buy 200 heat shrink connectors that have solder in them for $12, and they are water tite.
Assuming you have a 4-pole connection, you would need to take the 4-pole off and replace it with a 7-way connector. Then, run the brake wire lead from the pin labeled "Blue" out to the brake assemblies.
One thing he didn't mention was check for wear or an edge on the spindle. If the old bearings were worn too far down and bit into the metal then you need to change the spindle also.
Or you will be singing "O why did you leave me loose wheel.." lol
Thanks for the great video! You just saved me a ton!
This video on wring the trailer is terrific. It will help me alot. Being a novice to this I have this question. When you ran the wire over to the passenger side and zip-tied it to the axle, then you left a loop and ran the rest to the front of the trailer. How did you connect both sides of the trailer brakes? Are they all spliced together? How will this work on a 2 axle system? thanks in advance.
thx for the help man. u guys rock
Yes, we recommend the Prodigy P2 brake controller most. Check it out at etrailer.com, part # 90885.
Great Job THX
We are happy to help! Check out the following link for more information.
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-26.html
Does each brake assembly need to be grounded to chassis.
Good video. Do you not have to pound/press in the inner seal into the hub? A little unclear what you do at the brake where the wire continues to the other side. How do you splice it with it continuing on? Also how do you typically route the wiring for tandem axles?
The seal will need to be tapped into the hub. The brakes wires can be wired in a T and continued on to the next. Running the wires is going to be different for each trailer. You just want to run the wires where they will be safe and out of the way.
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-26.html
the 12v power lead, aka black on the 7-pole connects to what on my trailer? white to white, blue to black, so what about the black on my 7pole???
Thank You Sir
We are happy to help! Check out the following links to see more information on this trailer brake kit and wiring.
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-27.html
www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Deka/10-2-1.html
Great video.
I just found the 6 bolt 6000lb drums on your web site, I am buying them. My trailer NEEDS brakes, its terrifying in the snow.
Thanks
How much should I pay for someone to wire my trailer? I'm so busy and I am disabled. Thanks
I want to buy this kit for my trailer ill have to buy a trailer break controller right?
is that Romex wire like you would use in a house that you are using to wire the brakes? ifso, do you use that for the lights as well or do you use the brown/green/yellow/white that comes typical to most wiring kits.
(Have seen some people use old extension cords for the lights.)
do you just split the wires for the brakes between all four wheels?
thestigmach1 I would not use the word split personally. For the initial side you would have the wires from the plug, 2 wires going to the other side and 2 wires going to each hub. For a total of 4 wires of each power and ground. On the second side you will have 3 of each for brakes on 2 axles.
I have an older trailer that has hydraulic brakes, and they are bad. is it possible to change them to electric brakes?
Absolutely, do you have drum or disc brakes?
He’s saying he has surge brakes
Can you ground the brake wiring to the 7pole connecter?
The ground wire from the trailer brakes will need to grounded to the frame and the ground wire coming out of the 7 pole will need to be grounded to the frame for the brakes and any other lights that are on the trailer.
www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
When you have tandem wheels do you put brakes on the front axle or the rear axle?
It is always recommended to have trailer brakes for all of the trailer axles when brakes are required, but if you have to choose one axle it would be better to have them on the front axle.
@@etrailer This is contrary to other advice as having only on front axle will cause rear axle to "lift" at equalizer when brakes are applied. Better to have brakes on rear axle if only on one.
Did you use a junction box?
We did not install a junction box on this trailer but we highly recommend installing one if you are redoing the wiring on your trailer.
www.etrailer.com/Wiring/etrailer/e99011.html
I don't get how you ended up with a two wire romex on the right side when you show a 6 or 7 wire jacketed wire(s) when you're tying into the main coupler??? It looked like it showed you passing the main line all the way back to that right wheel in the beginning, then you showed a 2 wire at the brake, and then it was back to the full harness. What's up with that?
One of the wires on the brake assembly needs to be connected to power and the other one needs to be connected to ground. The polarity doesn't matter for brake assemblies so either wire and be connected to either function. Normally you would tie the brakes on one side of your trailer to the main 6-Way or 7-Way and then route some wiring over for the other side of the trailer. Here is a link to a helpful article that has a wiring diagram that you can check out www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
Who uses scotch locks when the connections are outside in the weather? Not going to take too long for those connections to fail!
We no longer use those types of connections. This video was filmed a good while ago. We only use heat shrink butt connectors on installations that we do.
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-26.html
Can you do a trailer brake install for a 1981 F350 or that model type I don’t really know if it will wire up the same for a 1991 as it will an 81
We have not had the opportunity to do an installation on a 1981 Ford F350 but the installation should be very similar to that of a 1991. You would need part # 118313 to get a 4 pole connection at the rear of the vehicle and then use # ETBC7 to get your 7 pole connection. I have linked both of the product pages in the following links.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118313.html
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/etrailer/ETBC7.html
etrailer.com I’ll let y’all borrow mine to do it on it lol just come down to Texas 😁👍 jk but thank you for replying!
We are happy and willing to help!
Scotch Locks should never be used on something as critical as brake wiring. I would think you guy's would know how to do it correctly but apparently not.
Scotch locks are not great.
Especially around here with salt air, they are garbage.
Solder, heat shrink, and black tape, or 2 years something is not working.
I am doing a trailer at this time, that was done 2 years ago, half the lights were not working, and no brakes.
Also I do not agree with the bearing tightening.
Should always over tighten, a bit on new bearings, 2 or 3 times, to work them in. Then tighten until they drag, then back off until they spin with wheel on freely.
WRONG! Ya need to seat the bearing, turn till you hear it click, then back off 1/2 turn
Don't ever use Scotch Locks on brakes.
Scotch locks lmao
They're not the ideal way to make those connections, but they are just about the easiest to use. If the user has the ability, we recommend soldering the connections and protecting them with heat shrink tubing. This being said, not everyone knows how to solder.
Not a good idea to run wiring through a crossmember with out a grommet.
Agreed! Eventually, the friction between the wire and the crossmember will wear a hole in the wire insulation. We will have that re-shot.
man, those 7pin wiring instructions are as confusing as it gets
I would have to agree with you but with all things considered that is one of our older videos. We have a much better video on how to get your 7-pole wired up here
www.etrailer.com/tv-review-etrailer-trailer-wiring-7-way-upgrade-kit-et7wk.aspx