Great video with some tips that I will likely use in the future. My one suggestion is that there is some value in using wooden dowels in that if you're CAM operation is somehow screwed up (not that I ever make that mistake... ), then if the bit collides with the dowel, it will survive a wood dowel as opposed to likely chipping on a steel dowel. I love the 3d printed clamps that I use for exactly that reason.
Thanks! Yes, that is a good point about the wood dowels. I usually use them the first time I do a new project/design, and then I move to steel dowels when I reproduce it again.
such a great idea! Do you find any warp-age of the bowls after removing so much material? Or is it not much of an issue? It looks like all of the bowls are at least tow pieces of wood glued together...so I assume that helps quite a bit. Great job man!
So far I haven't had any warping issues. I've had some done at least a month or so, but the humidity is fairly stable where I'm at in the US. The multi-piece ones will definitely maintain the shape better! I've sometimes layered them with the grain at 90 degrees to help with any expansion/contraction, but it doesn't seem to make a difference, so I go with aesthetics.
Nicely done dude. What is your tolerance/slop for the bowl and jig fit? 0.005 surface offset? Too tight and I imagine you can't compress into the tape too much. Too loose, and I imagine a twisting force could break the minimal tape surface bond. Makes me think allowed slop is directly proportional to tape thickness (ie: how much torsional force the tape can handle).
Also: Have you ever played with using one of those razor-jaw vices in this application? The ones that grab onto a very small amount of stock. I'm not sure if they will work on wood, or how easy the marring would be to remove with sand-paper after, but it seems like it could work.
Yeah! That took some time to figure out. I move the jig, in the model, about 0.045" up before I do the boolean cutout of the bowl on it. This gives it a gap underneath. I think this was too much...as I used some blue tape under the jig to give it a little less space., so about .030" might be ideal. I had problems with my first tests where the bowl would easily pop off. I found some pretty thin double sided tape; the thicker tape lets the workpiece move and have too much play.
@@CorbinDunn Interesting. That's a much larger offset than I would have guessed. As for the razor-jaws: I'd definitely expect the knife edge of the jaws to bite into the wood (it bites into the metal) and leave a mark, but it takes such a small bite that you might be able to easily account for it and then file it off after. I'm just not sure if you could get the required hold-down strength from it, but I'm also surprised and impressed that such a thin double-sided tape works. So maybe.
Sure; it says in the link, but it is "Vectric VCarve 11.5", which can also be opened in VCarve 12 and Aspire. There is also a Fusion version, which can be opened in any version of Fusion, since that app is always up to date.
@@CorbinDunn but i use only artcam and corel draw😓😕...i am still learning..i need this type of things...if u have ..these type of..files..u can share with me 🫶🏻
I've got about 5 I've posted on corbinsworkshop.com; currently I'm selling them for $50/bowl. I did a small run of them, but I need to figure out my real time and material costs to get a better feel for what I should price them at.
Haha! I know...I can never remember how people pronounce that word. I've called it May-lah-meen, and may-lah-mine, both of which are not right. Maybe one day I'll learn it :)
This is the best bowling video I've ever seen!
Haha!
Dowel pins rock! Excellent idea!
Very nice product. Your careful thinking on procedure really paid off.
Thanks!
Fantastic thumbnail ❤
Photoshop is making stuff easy these days!
Great video with some tips that I will likely use in the future. My one suggestion is that there is some value in using wooden dowels in that if you're CAM operation is somehow screwed up (not that I ever make that mistake... ), then if the bit collides with the dowel, it will survive a wood dowel as opposed to likely chipping on a steel dowel. I love the 3d printed clamps that I use for exactly that reason.
Thanks! Yes, that is a good point about the wood dowels. I usually use them the first time I do a new project/design, and then I move to steel dowels when I reproduce it again.
I love the workflow!
Thanks!
That's crazy!! So beautiful
Thank you
Thank you too!
Beautiful job
Thanks Ed!
Super nice work.
Thanks!
Great job
such a great idea! Do you find any warp-age of the bowls after removing so much material? Or is it not much of an issue? It looks like all of the bowls are at least tow pieces of wood glued together...so I assume that helps quite a bit. Great job man!
So far I haven't had any warping issues. I've had some done at least a month or so, but the humidity is fairly stable where I'm at in the US. The multi-piece ones will definitely maintain the shape better! I've sometimes layered them with the grain at 90 degrees to help with any expansion/contraction, but it doesn't seem to make a difference, so I go with aesthetics.
Nicely done dude. What is your tolerance/slop for the bowl and jig fit? 0.005 surface offset? Too tight and I imagine you can't compress into the tape too much. Too loose, and I imagine a twisting force could break the minimal tape surface bond. Makes me think allowed slop is directly proportional to tape thickness (ie: how much torsional force the tape can handle).
Also: Have you ever played with using one of those razor-jaw vices in this application? The ones that grab onto a very small amount of stock. I'm not sure if they will work on wood, or how easy the marring would be to remove with sand-paper after, but it seems like it could work.
Yeah! That took some time to figure out. I move the jig, in the model, about 0.045" up before I do the boolean cutout of the bowl on it. This gives it a gap underneath. I think this was too much...as I used some blue tape under the jig to give it a little less space., so about .030" might be ideal. I had problems with my first tests where the bowl would easily pop off. I found some pretty thin double sided tape; the thicker tape lets the workpiece move and have too much play.
I haven't tried those! It is hard to avoid denting the woods -- especially redwood...it dents so easily.
@@CorbinDunn Interesting. That's a much larger offset than I would have guessed. As for the razor-jaws: I'd definitely expect the knife edge of the jaws to bite into the wood (it bites into the metal) and leave a mark, but it takes such a small bite that you might be able to easily account for it and then file it off after. I'm just not sure if you could get the required hold-down strength from it, but I'm also surprised and impressed that such a thin double-sided tape works. So maybe.
Can u provide me bowl's file firmate
Sure; it says in the link, but it is "Vectric VCarve 11.5", which can also be opened in VCarve 12 and Aspire. There is also a Fusion version, which can be opened in any version of Fusion, since that app is always up to date.
@@CorbinDunn but i use only artcam and corel draw😓😕...i am still learning..i need this type of things...if u have ..these type of..files..u can share with me 🫶🏻
These look great! Want to sell me any?
I've got about 5 I've posted on corbinsworkshop.com; currently I'm selling them for $50/bowl. I did a small run of them, but I need to figure out my real time and material costs to get a better feel for what I should price them at.
Sorry, Mey-la-mine? That's a new pronounciation to me!
Haha! I know...I can never remember how people pronounce that word. I've called it May-lah-meen, and may-lah-mine, both of which are not right. Maybe one day I'll learn it :)
@@CorbinDunn Mel-a-meen
@@herbert633 ;)
Wery difficult way
What way do you suggest?