The most advanced/aerodynamic big wave surfboard we've ever built
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- It took years of research and development between Keith Taboul, Ian Walsh, and I. We were finally able to optimize our big wave guns to push our limits to the next level 
Edit by Ryan Johnson
@ktsurfing
Going back 30-40 years ago at least for windsurfing boards. They all had a bigger nose. And then it was no nose. And then it was wider and more compact/ with more balanced volume repartition... and now going back to 80s and 90s'. Since no hard science applies to these sports, we always reinvent the wheel to figure out only therafter that it was already on the table
Yeah this board reminds me of my windsurf board from the early 90s before the no-nose revolution. Now I am looking forward to seeing Keith's next generation of Dragonfly boards.
that's right. i recently sold a 6-4 channel bottom, ala andy irons, from 20 years ago...still the best gun i've ever had. the industry simply stopped doing channel bottoms because of economics, not because they don't work!
same reason they went to ultra light glassing...cheaper...but not superior performance.
the next progression is in material construction...the boards are lacking in buoyancy to density ratio...especially the big wave boards...they are more like airplane wings, when they should be more like towboards that can be paddled.
it's not as hard as you think to achieve...just that the economics of an industry looking to stay rich by producing nothing new, except energy drinks, is never going to get it done.
i'm hoping one of the big wave legends will eventually see the opportunity.
i'm ready to reveal it to the first one who wants to change the game!
Same with ski, tennis!
Yep, I remember in the early 1970's, riding a friend's brother's 7'2" board - a pintail - that was very wide in the nose, so wide that you could just ride it from the front 2 feet or so and nearly lift the tail out of the water. I tried and tried to buy this board from his brother, but no go. So here, half a century later, we have a reincarnation of an older style, although your nose is probably a bit thicker, rather than wider, than the board I so dearly remember. Kudos to you for bringing this to the fore!
This was awesome so much knowledge thanks kai
wish i could get you boys interested in the NEXT progression...it isn't nose shape...it's material construction. 'buoyancy to density' ratio...that is the future of big wave boards...tube boards...slab boards.
@@tonysmario817 why? EPS already has a higher buoyancy to density ratio than PU... and it sucks in choppy waters.
@@ab-nz2mm yes...eps is WAY too 'light'...no density for the amount of buoyancy.
imagine the range is anywhere from a styrofoam blank to a solid piece of wood...which end of that spectrum has intrinsic momentum?
the big question is how to harness that momentum into a surfboard that can catch a wave paddling...and eps is not the answer for powerful waves. that's now been proven.
Its insane how much better that new nose shape feels. Game-changing fosho
Kai's expertise in all these waterboard sports gives him the best perspective on innovations. Love that closing wave
The forward volume let's you paddle laying closer to the nose which helps you push over the ledge better too.
How can I get one? I am in Oaxaca Mexico.. kind thanks for your attention to this comment :)
Also having more weight in the front of the board helps get you down the face sooner.
Kai, I’d like to know more about this tech. I’ve always surfed a 10’7” single fin gun. Living in San Diego all my life, on the west coast we don’t have the offshores like the islands. If you have a way to reach out to me, I’d be grateful. Mahalo’
I don’ t understand. Boeing more cambered the nose at the same scoop attack angle. The aerodinamic lift shall increase and the board fly away.
Hi Kai!, Check the old Wil Jobson/Dynamic Balance, Twinzer din configuration for faster drop in, faster down the line speed and and loose but Very stable manuverability!
Basically a twin fin that drives and doean't stall.
Had a 10' 8" beast that was shaped in the 80s and fat in the nose like that.... paddled like a dream and could catch ankle biters with easy, but she turned like a 60's Cadillac... Slooooooow n smooth. Better pick your line well because she won't snap around like you're used to.
@ Kai Lenny May I say the bottom rocker is the same it's just the volume you have though out the deck from the nose to the mid of the board
Ya i was reading recently about how kai likes widsurfing style and full grip. So it looks like hes making this even more airplane wing like. Wants the lift and drive.
@@botaccount3449 nothing to do with airplane wings it's about foils are to do with airplane wings and lift with a surfboard it's all about down force like a f1 car and the fins are your tires
@@ymiecapach6679 what are you on?
I have a down winder foil bosrd with the more volume noise i absolutely love the shape the take off is more planing in a good way i was waiting to see it reverse tech back into surfboards 🤗
Epic video
one of Kai's best videos right here
A few years back.There was made a bigwave board with a huge bump on the nosefront, full carbon glassed. I'm wondering why you guys ride epoxy? 🤔
You're a trailblazer always pushing the limits!! Thanks Kai for your spirit and sharing your knowledge with the world🌍⚡⚡🚀
@kailenny this concept works also in super hollow big waves like Puerto Escondido?
Excellent! Thanks for the narrative, who'd a thought!
How much have material properties changed over the years? Do you think that a material, that has more shock absorbing properties, would help against getting air in chop? I don’t mean like a half inflated SUP but more a material that spreads out the force of impact. E.g. Kevlar
Well 35 years a go my gun was between a 6.8 and a 7.4
My freinds and i rode huge waves on boards that size at puerto,hanalei and all around santa cruz but not mavericks. Of curse we wrre in our early twenties..in my mimd big wave surfing takes strength huge balls and luck.as far as boards go yes keep reinventing the wheel but remember its the indian not the arrow at the end of the day.
i used to do down river kayak racing and that is how kayak design evolved in the 80's they started to put more volume in the nose of the boat to get through rough water. on a surfboard, however. that is much more intimidating especially for a kook like me ;)
Wouldn't it be hydrodynamics?
great now i need new guns
So more aerodynamic, extra weight and extra floatation at the front of the board, right? I won’t ever try so I’ll trust the logic 😂
as an old body surfer , my equipment suffers greatly from wear and neglected maintenance, thank goodness I don't have to stand up. nice to see advancements in other equipment, and I look forward to viewing the results of new thinking.
This is so sick. Thanks for pushing the limits Kai!
Ian Walsh surfed a full nose gun a few years ago. The nose was looking like a "bulb". I guess this nose shape is reducing the air depression on the deck during the drop.
It all comes.sown to weight distribution at the end of the day its a fine line to be honest
Death fears Kai Lenny!
👍🍺
Unbelievably sick
Next level!!
Interesting. But nothing revolutionary. As you mentioned already, these boards are more or less the same since decades. Just little improvements here and there. Just a thicker nose doesn't make it a revolution. But evolution fits.
It’s a small revolution if absolutely no-one else is doing it, but yeah physically it’s not a huge difference.
they are doing what they can with the limited materials they use. a 'thicker' nose that is narrower is an improvement, since wind resistance on the drop is a major factor in missing the big ones on late drops...
but the true 'revolution' is in a change of material make up...one that increases the 'density to buoyancy' ratio...meaning the board is 'heavier' for a given amount of 'float'...this allows the entire board to be reconfigured for plan shape as well as foil. it incorporates the dynamics of towboards, which have the highest density to buoyancy at the moment. imagine an 8 foot board that paddles like a 9 foot gun, and feels like a 7 foot towboard on the wave...that's the future.
the tech is readily available...but the industry has no interest in spending money on development...only on cranking out same old same old.
SURFMART doesn't do 'revolutionary'...they only do standard issue and red bullshit!
Nice 👏👏
Did anyone else hear Kai call his surfboard a foil?
I think Kai was referring to foil as the shape of the board. Foil meaning the curves/shape. Anyway, that's what I think he means, but happy to be wrong.
Foil in surfboard shaping lingo is the distribution of thickness in the board including the rails.
See that extra float at nose as being that much more to try and duck dive. Likely to help, if it gets pushed through deep enough, to pop ya out the back🙏🙏🤙
You won’t be duck diving 20 foot plus waves on any board anyway.
@@theseb1979 normally, but I’m sure there’ll be times when it’s necessary.🤙
@@connorm3457 There is no duck diving 25 foot waves nor is there duck diving of a 9'6 gun
I think you mean hydrodynamic.
He does genuinely mean ‘aerodynamic’. Although I think the drop-in stability from the bigger nose on these boards probably comes about more from having more mass on the nose of the board. But what do I know, the biggest wave I’ve surfed is about 2ft 😂😂😂
@@alanpods2 yep, extra mass will give better resistance against the upward force of air on drop in, but it nose shape is what really determines the stability as it flows through the air - centre of gravity & surface flow of air.
@@olihargrave7366ya he likes literal plane wing shapes.
Aerodynamic, it's not submerged
He uses both terms in the video depending on if he is talking about the air drop and air generated by speed or the board moving through the water.
Your abilities are at another level Kai 😂 But if your development of potential design has the impact of previous shaper generations 👍 This opens new doors of development 🤙