Great vid. Listening to your body is very important regardless of what your plans are. It’s easy for me to do too much and get caught in a cycle of never feeling quite that strong
Ive been moonboarding (2016 set) 3x a week and using emil’s method on the hangboard 2x a day (feet on floor just for injury prevention for 10 min). Seems to be working well. If I’m not taxing my fingers on fingery overhung climbs I make no progress.
I think the moonboard is amazing for progress but 3x a week would be a lot for me! Last proper pulley injury I did was on the moonboard and now I try to be really rested going into a sesh. Been wanting to do emils daily thing as well but don’t have a hangboard setup at the moment. Keep it up buddy!
Yeah, actually that long endurance piece is something I feel I should do more of, I’m just a little scared of the volume honestly. Hoping it is something I can work in more over the years for sure
Really cool vid! Imo pushing hard is important for progression, but have you ever considered sessions where you climb easier boulders and focus on technique? There's a video out there by Catalyst Climbing where he showcases drills to help you learn technique even on easy climbs, and honestly they're amazing. While there's obviously a strength requirement for different climbs, strength isn't everything, and you can improve a lot by working on just technique and muscle memory/neural adaptations with easier stuff. You don't have to push hard to learn good technique, you just have to try your best to be as efficient as possible, no matter how hard the climb
I found the vid I was talking about: ruclips.net/video/AKn8lcOKHd8/видео.html Also, 4x4s are great exercises to still push without doing climbs that are too difficult, they've helped me progress a bunch and I honestly feel like they don't tire my tendons out, only my muscles
100% agree! Every so often I step back and rebuild my grade period from 0 up - usually when I’m in a new area. I did this when I spent 4 months in Vegas bouldering, only climbing at my limit for the last few weeks really. I kinda did that again when I got to CO, but lately have been going at limit boulders almost exclusively. Will probably do another “ground up” phase since we just arrived in Austin for the next 9 months this… although I’ll be stuck in the gym until it cools off a bit. Thanks for watching and for the tips! I like catalyst and think I’ve seen the video you’re talking about. Definitely agree their is a ton of technique to learn from easier climbs 🤙
@@TheJustinConnor Interesting lol, do you rebuild your grade to get used to the new terrain? Since different locations have different climbing styles. Or is it just a thing you do whenever you move lol. Also it's cool you're going to Austin, I've been climbing around the area a few times. Idk about outdoor bouldering locations other than Waco which is cool, but you should try out Reimers Ranch and Medicine Wall (in San Antonio) for sport climbing routes, they're cool and pretty well protected. And if you don't mind veeery run-out bolts, Enchanted Rock has some fun multi-pitch routes too
Yeah partially to get used to the new terrain, partially to climb a lot of boulders when I first get to the area and not get stuck projecting too early, and partially to let my body recover from the limit stuff 🤷♂️ seems to work out well. I’ll be pretty much climbing by myself exclusively here in Austin so not sure I’ll do much ropes. There is a decent amount of bouldering around that I’ll be checking out for sure! 🤙
Love this. So glad you’re finding ways to climb and develop your climbing skills while avoiding injury. That’s awesome.!
Thanks mom 🙂
Great vid. Listening to your body is very important regardless of what your plans are. It’s easy for me to do too much and get caught in a cycle of never feeling quite that strong
100% thanks for watching! 🤙
Ive been moonboarding (2016 set) 3x a week and using emil’s method on the hangboard 2x a day (feet on floor just for injury prevention for 10 min). Seems to be working well. If I’m not taxing my fingers on fingery overhung climbs I make no progress.
I think the moonboard is amazing for progress but 3x a week would be a lot for me! Last proper pulley injury I did was on the moonboard and now I try to be really rested going into a sesh. Been wanting to do emils daily thing as well but don’t have a hangboard setup at the moment. Keep it up buddy!
did you ever consider adding regular long endurance training in between limit sessions to improve recovery and power endurance?
Yeah, actually that long endurance piece is something I feel I should do more of, I’m just a little scared of the volume honestly. Hoping it is something I can work in more over the years for sure
Really cool vid! Imo pushing hard is important for progression, but have you ever considered sessions where you climb easier boulders and focus on technique? There's a video out there by Catalyst Climbing where he showcases drills to help you learn technique even on easy climbs, and honestly they're amazing.
While there's obviously a strength requirement for different climbs, strength isn't everything, and you can improve a lot by working on just technique and muscle memory/neural adaptations with easier stuff. You don't have to push hard to learn good technique, you just have to try your best to be as efficient as possible, no matter how hard the climb
I found the vid I was talking about: ruclips.net/video/AKn8lcOKHd8/видео.html
Also, 4x4s are great exercises to still push without doing climbs that are too difficult, they've helped me progress a bunch and I honestly feel like they don't tire my tendons out, only my muscles
100% agree! Every so often I step back and rebuild my grade period from 0 up - usually when I’m in a new area. I did this when I spent 4 months in Vegas bouldering, only climbing at my limit for the last few weeks really. I kinda did that again when I got to CO, but lately have been going at limit boulders almost exclusively. Will probably do another “ground up” phase since we just arrived in Austin for the next 9 months this… although I’ll be stuck in the gym until it cools off a bit.
Thanks for watching and for the tips! I like catalyst and think I’ve seen the video you’re talking about. Definitely agree their is a ton of technique to learn from easier climbs 🤙
I like 4x4s in small doses and or on ergonomic holds, but I don’t do em all that often
@@TheJustinConnor Interesting lol, do you rebuild your grade to get used to the new terrain? Since different locations have different climbing styles. Or is it just a thing you do whenever you move lol.
Also it's cool you're going to Austin, I've been climbing around the area a few times. Idk about outdoor bouldering locations other than Waco which is cool, but you should try out Reimers Ranch and Medicine Wall (in San Antonio) for sport climbing routes, they're cool and pretty well protected. And if you don't mind veeery run-out bolts, Enchanted Rock has some fun multi-pitch routes too
Yeah partially to get used to the new terrain, partially to climb a lot of boulders when I first get to the area and not get stuck projecting too early, and partially to let my body recover from the limit stuff 🤷♂️ seems to work out well.
I’ll be pretty much climbing by myself exclusively here in Austin so not sure I’ll do much ropes. There is a decent amount of bouldering around that I’ll be checking out for sure! 🤙
creatine
…Makes you need fewer rest days?
@@TheJustinConnor Why do u ... ? Ofc creatine helps recover faster. That's one of the main use cases.
@@TheJustinConnor ruclips.net/video/hrC818fFSuo/видео.html
Good info, I’ve never really researched or gotten into creatine. Will have to check it out