I had been struggling with the F-35 code and RUclips videos for over a month, even paid an appliance repair company to come diagnose but they couldn’t be sure what the issue was. I bought the pressure switch and found this video, followed it step by step and it was EXACTLY right! Thanks for clear teaching, right to the point and the advice about using too much soap adds to my confidence that it won’t happen again.
I have tried everything from repairing wires to replacing the actual CCU and then I found this video. You just saved a steam washers life and saved me from a hernia because I was ready to throw this thing out the door. Thank you so much for your easy instructions and getting down to the point of the problem. Putting it into diagnostics mode was a big plus because noone seems to know how to do it for the steam washers correctly or if they do they want to charge for it. So thank you thank you thank you. I know this video is 7 years old but I really hope you are still doing videos like this because you truly are an appliance guru.
Hot tip everyone! Since this video taught me how to run the diagnostics & talked about the overuse of soap, I reasoned that perhaps apple cider vinegar might unclog whatever was wrong. When I ran the diagnostics the code stuck at "C00", would not advance & eventually threw the F35 error code. Since I know that warm or hot vinegar works better than cold, I heated a gallon of it on the stove, poured it into my washer & let it sit for a couple of hours, fuming it's little brains out! I suspect that pouring straight into the soap dispenser would have been better but I went straight into the drum. If you try to start the cycle, with a code F35 pending, the washer will try to drain all of the vinegar away so just let it sit for a couple of hours as I did. When I went back & checked the diagnostics it advanced all the way through the normal cycles & completed without throwing a code! I started a normal load and it went through perfectly! I realize that this may not be a permanent fix but at least for now it saved me from tearing it apart or calling a serviceman. The only downside to this story, if there is one, is that my house smells like a pickle factory! lol, I can deal with that. :)
Great video. My 10 year old Whirlpool Duet Steam washer has been trouble and problem free until recent "SUD going to F35" code. I have always followed cleaning schedule w/ bleach then switched to washer cleaner tablets last couple years. Also drain filter clean out routine last few years annually. My issue was as described in the video. When running diagnostic test as video showed it completed all tests as all good. Still SUD and f35 code. I cleaned the APS completely with CRC contact cleaner, dried it w/ hair drier on low and blew air pressure down the black tube that's attached. Reinstalled APS and ran a test cycle with no error!! Washer has done a least 8-10 loads with no SUD or f35 code. Thank you a great video on repair and how much detergent to use tip!!
Thanks for the video. I ran the diagnostics and had the exact same results as shown here. Before replacing any parts, I checked the collection trap under the machine. It was empty. So, I went ahead and replaced the APS, which was a very easy process. We're about 10 wash loads in, and not a single problem. It was a simple fix, and saved us a bunch of money in parts and labor (about $60 just to have the repairman show up). We're very appreciative, and hope everyone else can resolve their machine errors as quickly and easily as we can.
I went through every step recommended in the video and it was really helpful. I blew out the line with my air compressor, I cleaned the little tube going to the analogue pressure switch and still was getting the F35. I bit the bullet and bought one from Amazon at about $135. I installed it and immediately it had SUD on the display, but I put it in Clean mode and it went through the cycle with no problem. I assume the sud was because it maybe was confused being just connected. Finished the clean mode and put a load in the washer and it works GREAT. Hate to think what a repair man would have charged to do the same thing. Follow all the steps the video shows you and if all else fails try the APS.... Good luck. Dennis in Texas
Cleaned the APS with CRC electronic parts cleaner and have done 4 loads over 2 days with no F35 error. APS comes right out after a 1/4 turn clockwise. Also pulled a sock out of the drain filter, and by the looks of it, it had been there a while. Lol.
Of all of the SUDS/F35 error videos and websites I have been to (to try and not have to purchase wrong/not needed pieces) your video is the most thorough and useful I have seen. The full breakdown of (your idea) of how/what the APS does is extremely useful. I am soon to be replacing my APS and this video has helped my confidence is the hope of replacing the correct part instead of paying hand over foot for a repair man to tell me the same and charge me 5 times the price to replace it myself.
Man... THANK YOU so much. I have paid MULTIPLE repairmen numerous times to help fix my F21 code. They are constantly saying their is a plugged drain, and they only take off the bottom front. They have NEVER went through the diagnostic platform to diagnose ANYTHING. When i hit cancel it donations and drains and drains and drains. So I'm thinking it might be the APS. Totally gonna have to do this troubleshooting technique
This 8 year old video saved the day! I had the same problem and purchased the $250 CAD level switch and voila. Problem solved and don’t need to spend another $1000K replacing the washer, just yet. Thanks!
Thanks for the video, awesome how to. Been researching this for a few days and have been narrowing it down to this. one other thing i have seen is to remove the short black rubber hose from the top of the pressure sensor chip. Hold the brown pressure housing upside down and spray a couple of light bursts of contact cleaner into the pressure sensor chip inlet tube. Light low pressure bursts will clean it out and not damage it internally. Reconnect the rubber hose and check that both ends are fully seated. Reinstall the black outer cover and install the unit in your washer. not saying it will work but what was explained was after time moisture settles in on the chip and it is fooled to think the tub is too full.
This video saved me from having to call an appliance repairman...saving me hundreds of dollars! I ordered a new analog pressure sensor from Amazon and it took me less than a minute to install. It took longer to put the top of the washer back on. Thanks Samauri Repairman!!!!
Let me say a big thank you for this excellent video. I had the same problem and I followed the steps you showed and now I have a working washer. I must let you know that instead of replacing the APS, I bought a CRC QD contact cleaner and sprayed the APS. When I ran the diagnostics again, everything was great. There are other videos and advice on RUclips telling how to spray the APS.
Thank you for a great video. The diagnostic discovered the pressure switch to be at fault. Using a suggestion from another source, I took the sensor and thoroughly hosed it off with electrical contact cleaner, paying special attention to the tiny hole where the short, kinked hose plugs in. Now it works fine and we have done at least 4 loads with this washer without a hitch.
I was getting the F35/Sud error. When I ran the diagnostic, it wouldn't go through the sequence of codes. Based on some others feedback here, I flushed out the APS with parts cleaner I had on hand, in my case automotive brake cleaner. I ran the diagnostic again, and it went through the entire cycle. The machine works, and now washing clothes again! Maybe it's only a temporary fix, but since it cost nothing, I'm happy. :)
Great troubleshooting steps. I cleaned the analog pressure sensor with electronic cleaning equipment, I opened the drain at bottom front to ensure there was no blockage. Ultimately I think the fix was in the area of the laundry detergent ... There was a build up and I cleaned it both inside and outside. I noticed, while I had the top off, where there was some build up and it spins clockwise during the testing. So I think if that couldn't move, it is likely why SUD and error F35 occurred. Also I think it occurred due to putting too much laundry detergent. Thanks!!
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!! I learned a lot from this and now I think I can teach you something. I have a Maytag 5000. On the outside the front panel is totally different but on the inside, they're identical. I don't have a Deep Clean button so I never got it into diag mode. However when I realized the pump won't turn off without unplugging it I knew it had to be the pressure switch. So I pulled the sensor out and blew in and sucked out on the tube a few times and I actually felt it clear something. I put it back in and it worked! 3 loads later and it's still working. Who knows maybe it won't last but at least I got to catch up on laundry tonight and know how to fix it again. Thank you so much for posting this!
Best assistance, followed all steps, paused a lot but got it done. While waiting for the replacement part I did leave the washer unplugged and it started working ok the next day. After one load the F35 SUD code returned. I continued following the video and replaced my APS. It's all working great.... I did view other video that suggest cleaning out your drain and I found 78 cents blocking the drain filter. It's a good thing to do on a regular basic from now on. Thanks SamuraiRepairman for a easy to follow instruction video.
1. Try the easiest thing first. Pull the tube off of the nipple on the bottom of the analog pressure sensor (APS) and blow a little compressed air down the tube. (I used a little can of compressed gas used for dusting electronics, available at OfficeMax for a few bucks). This fixed the problem for me. 2. If that doesn't work, remove the lower front panel and remove the pump cover. (See the associated video on RUclips.) Check for foreign objects and clogging inside. 3. If the doesn't work, remove the main control board (a fiddly task: secret is finding the small tab on the back inside edge of the cover where it hooks into the steel wall and prying it back while sliding the board rearward.) Inspect the green capacitors for small bulges on top. Replace if needed. 4. If that doesn't work, replace the APS.
Whirlpool, in their infinite wisdom, has decided not to release any technical details on the inputs and outputs to the APS. Since it's just a transducer that converts the analog pressure into a digital signal then sends it to the CCU, the APS must have a common and DC supply voltage (from the CCU). The output is probably as pulse width modulated DC voltage sent to the CCU. Next one of these I do, I'm going to do some reverse engineering. Stay tuned!
I have replaced the sensor a little over a year ago. Is it common for these sensors to need replacement that often? I haven't taken the CCU off yet. Would you recommend replacing the capacitors or the entire CCU?
Thanks... Use less detergent now... Also, when mine threw the code, I unhooked the tube off the pressure sensor, air hosed it down tube, put back together. Also cleaned out bottom trap by drain pump under machine.... finally washing clothes again.
Has anyone else had this issue occur shortly after starting to use detergent pods? My wife started using them a few months ago, and the F35/SUDS error began happening on a machine which had been flawless for 12 years. It's fixed now, thanks to help from this video, but should we stop using the pods to prevent recurrence?
Success!! Thanks Samurai. I replaced my APS and worked like a charm. I used replacement part W10312527 and it worked fine despite it was for a slightly different model. Removing the APS from the washer was easy using a 90 degree turn and pulling out. With the new APS in hand, I had to cut off the white tab/clip on the white plastic wire harness to fit into the APS. It's the single tab that is separated from the cluster of white tabs. I would recommend taking pictures when you take apart the wire harness from the APS and washer.
First, thanks for the great and helpful youtube. Also, the comments on why to use less detergent. Our diagnostic would go all the way thru c9 but would still get the F35 Sud during some washes. Cleaned the hose inlets and the drain on the bottom --rats, no money just a little bit of sludge. Using less detergent, got a couple of washes out of it, but then got just the F35 code. Ordered the pressure switch from Best Buy on line (30 day return policy, so if it didn't work could have returned it), put it in, and washer has worked perfectly for several loads and seems happy. I would recommend replacing the rubber washers where the water hoses connect to the washer (normal garden hose washers). Mine might have lasted forever, but they are cheap and easy to replace and probably is a best practice after several years.
Hello! At the beginning of the video you mentioned that if the analog pressure piece doesn't fix the problem, then it could be the steam sensor or the CCU... anyway you can create a video to show how to fix it if one of those two are the problem?
I hooked up a Duet washer WFW9550WW00 that we bought and transported carefully on its back in our mini van. The PO disconnected the drain hose and moved the washer to his garage while we trans[ported the companion dryer, and I did not see any water come out of it as it was loaded. At home, the end(s) of the drain hose had some crud that I cleaned out with a brush before re-connecting it. I put in a little He detergent, started it on "Normal", the door lock light came on, and then a nearly immediate F35 . I heard what I assume is the drain pump running rather loudly, and there is no fill. We had the PO run the fill and spin before it was moved to be sure it spun quietly and there were no error codes. I started the first diagnostic and got C00 followed by F35 again. I did the steamer test and got a yes. I put a bucket of hot water in the tub and ran the diagnostic again and it did pump water thru the drain hose, but again had the C00 followed by the F35. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the detailed diagnostics! If you use Tide pods as opposed to the Tide HE liquid, would this still result in the same problem as using too much liquid detergent? Just wondering! Also approximately how much does the APS part cost?
Hello, great video! I saw how you showed to test the steam board by pressing start and deep clean at same time. Can you please tell me how to test the main control board?
Hey Frank, I'm running into the same situation. Now it's been 6 years so, what did you end up finding was the culprit; how did you end up fixing your washer?
I have been having the dreaded SUD/F35 problem with my Whirlpool Duet washing machine since February. I researched the problem and it looked like the APS which seemed like a relatively inexpensive fix. I called a reputable repairman and he agreed and performed the fix. Still had sporadic problems. Had the CCU replaced. Still had sporadic problems. Had the APS replaced again and the steamer. Still had sporadic problems. BTW the repairman was so frustrated that he couldn't fix the problem that he only charged me for 1 service call and didn't charge me for the steamer. Still, I have spent hundreds of dollars and still have had intermittent problems. I was able to make the machine work ALMOST always by running a drain & spin cycle after every wash load occasionally getting the SUD error on any setting including having issues occasionally running the diagnostic test. That is, until 5 days ago. I can no longer even run a successful diagnostic test. It does exactly what your video showed - pumping water in on the C:00. It also does this on the Drain & Spin setting. Before I ordered a new machine, I decided to check the pump filter and it was clean (oh a couple of dog hairs, but nothing else). I also blew in the APS hose to no avail. I hesitate to replace the APS yet again, but it is still cheaper than a new washer. This machine is almost 6 years old, but looks like new. I use very little detergent - always HE. My household consists of 1 human, 1 dog and 2 cats. I don't overuse this machine. Did I just get a lemon? Is there anything else you can suggest before I order a new machine? BTW your video was excellent!
thanks for the helpful video. I have been getting the F35 error every other load I run for the past week or so. I ran a clean washer cycle recently and it came up during that cycle. Have run two loads since without issue. I then ran the diagnostic mode and everything checks out...also did the steamer test and got "Yes". So not sure if I should proceed with replacing switch or not. Very likely excess detergent usage is an issue here, as I had a roommate for about a year and I don't think she followed my instructions on how much detergent to use. I am going to run a few more test loads and see if it comes back up, but if it does, anything else I should check before ordering and replacing the APS?
If cleaning the drain trap and blowing through the APS tube don't work (they didn't for me), try replacing the two bad capacitors in the CCU (see video by Jarred explaining how to do this) before spending $ on a new APS.
I have this problem with An identical make and model washer, where is the best place to Buy the pressure switch from. And please show us how you get the lid top off. I've watched a few videos of yours Abs don't recall you showing how the top gets removed to rest things.
Buy the replacement APS from the link in the video description above. The lid is easily removed by removing three screws in the very back then sliding back and off.
I just went through the diags. didn't get past c00. then I pulled the ccu to check voltage at the pressure sensor. Empty it read about .289 volts and when done filling it went all the way up .8 volts (pin1 ground, to pin 2 sensor reading - pin 3 should always be at 5 volts). This meant the sensor was working. While I had the ccu off its mounts and upside down, I decided to do the diagnostics again. It all worked! Which means I had a intermittent connection and stressing the wires in a different direction. I re-seated all connectors to the pressure switch - and we're good to go!!!
Shogman...I have the same issue as you with my starting sensor reading at 0.25 and then all the way up to 0.7 when done filling. Your comment looks to be cutoff and wasn't finished. What did you wind up doing?
I ended up replacing the sensor. Mine was out of range on both the bottom and top readings. Maybe the mini diaphragm got a bit too loose. Been running fine for 2 months now.
Today is the second time this week I have taken my washer apart for this problem. Both times I have blown in the tube AND rubbed an eraser on the contacts of the APS. Not sure which one did the trick but I wish I would stop getting this error. It is so frustrating. I am considering pulling the back off the washer in order to get to the tube connection to the drum and see if a thorough cleaning at this point might be the best answer.
Great video. I followed the diagnostic instructions and found the cycle did not progress to C01, door locked, steamer clunked a little bit and then the cold water started to fill. From your commentary it sounds like this means the Steamer is failing and needs to be replaced. Is this accurate? When I do the test on the Steamer the screen reads Yes, so could there be a different error?
Thanks, Samurai!!! My issue to the tee! Wish I had seen your video first! Having gone through and explaining what I thought was going on to my wife (showing off that old military electronics training), we watched this and your close was exactly what I told her! LOL Thanks again! Now to fix that chip!
I get the Sud/F35 error codes with no detergent included. all the diagnostics included here run through fine. I did all the recommended cleaning & checking connections that I've seen were recommended. Is my next step the APS? It sounds like it.
I did not see where you removed the pressure sensor, does it slide out? I believe that is issue with our machine but need to remove as you did in video? Extremely helpful , thank you very much !
Yes, slides out. Look at the back of the part in in the photos on this page and you'll get an idea of how it comes out: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pressure-Switch/W10415587/1938628?RCAID=24038
Hi I have Kenmore Elite He steam 5t and I get studs or f 35 code how can I check my steamer not the same as the one you worked on in this video is there another video I can watch or can you help me. Before I change the control bored thank you for your time.
I was having SUDS and F35 error messages so I followed the directions you gave for diagnostic steps and it went through all the steps. It took awhile but it went through C00 - C08 or C09. Then I started the cycle and it worked with no error messages. I changed to the PODS instead of the dispenser. Does the soap cause the problem?? Now l will see if it will wash a second load.
I replaced the APS after watching your video (which was well done!) and I still get the same code during diagnostic testing. I did have a bit of trash in the lower drain and cleaned that out, prior to replacing the APS. I reseated all connections on the control units. The new APS required me to cut/remove the key from the connector, before the connector would fit in the new APS. I do have 3 dogs and 3 cats and ALWAYS clean the drain between the rubber skirt and drum/drain of any hair. There was no hair in the lower drain, just a bit of sludge and a big pebble. The steamer test = YES, so what is wrong?
The drain has absolutely nothing to do with this error. I know there's another video out there where the guy claims this fixed it but I assure you that was purely coincidental. He was a DIYer who was just guessing. Saying that a poor drain caused the F35/Sud error is like saying a flat tire caused your car engine to quit starting. With that out of the way, the other big causes for this error code are the steam control board and the CCU, as I pointed out in my video. Do the steamer test shown in the video. If it passes, replace the CCU. Click the part link in the video description above and buy it there so that in case that doesn't fix it, you can return it for a refund.
After performing the error check test I cleaned thefilter but it did not help. I then replaced the pressure sensor and the suds error went away. Thank you.
been getting sud error but always worked after I did rinse/spin or drain/spin. this time I didn't add any detergent and it still shows sud/f35. I guess it's not sud and something more serious now? I heard use vinegar and do clean washer mode once a year that would help. is that right?
I’ve run the Diagnostic Test several times and the test successfully completes. However, when I try to run the Clean Cycle or a normal cycle, I receive the Suds or F-35 errors……any suggestions on next steps?
Thx for the advice. I ran both diagnostic tests and they both checked out fine. Nonetheless I'm still getting the F35 error. I checked the tub drain - nice and clean. I haven't fooled around w/ the APS yet, although based on some of the other posts I may spray it with contact cleaner first. Any thoughts?
The APS sold now is not the same as the APS for the 2008 Whirlpool Duet Model anymore. Does anyone have advice on where to get one or how to make the APS work for this model?
I could not figure out if it was pressure switch (APS) or something else like CCU when the F35 error occurred. When I ran the diagnostic, it properly incremented from c01 to c09, then finished normally. Steamer diagnostic showed "Yes" as good. I emptied and cleaned the drain unit on bottom of the drum. I blew APS tube as well. I still get the F35 error. SUD error flashes for several times before F35 error occurs. Is it still the APS issue? Did anyone have same issue?
HI I have the sud and F35 error codes. Can you explain why when I do the diagnostic test after the error history, software version test, the diagnostic test goes through all code C00 to C09 with no problem, but if i do the disagnostic test only it stops at C00 and finally failes with the F35?
Ok, I am in a unique position. My mom has the same dryer and I switched the APS. Mine worked fine in her machine and her APS gave me the same code. Suds, then F35. With her APS in in the self diagostic still does not increment. Both APS increment in the other machine. Also, I ran the steamer test. Also, even though blew through the hose, cleaned the drain. I have not found anywhere what my next steep might be.
Good start! Your next step is to start a new topic in the Laundry forum at Appliantology.org and we'll work through it with you there. See this page to get started: appliantology.org/concierge/faq.html
I ran the diagnostic test you show in the video and it went through the sequence without a problem. I've cleaned out the drain pump trap and removed coins, rocks, bobby pins and a zipper. I am still getting Sud ad F35 error codes. Is there something else it could be or is the diagnostic test not that accurate?
Unfortunately, because the lack of information that Whirlpool gives us about inputs and outputs to these components, we can't do any analytic testing. But experience from the field is that the next component to replace is the CCU.
Favorite part of the Video: "The most common cause for the F35/Suds error code: idiot directions on detergent bottles.!!" 🤣🤣😆😆😆😆. #SCREWTIDE buying Detergent from a different brand. Thank you for the video - I just unplugged and reset existing APS - it's working now..
Your manual is located below the washer door. You need to take of the bottom portion (three bolts) where the water pump is located. Look on the side wall (right) there's a plastic bag holding your manual.
I have Maytag 5000, I am getting SUD once while I will get F35, I ran Diag. went thought the whole thing perfectly. Then ran it again, went to C00 drained, Filled, then F35 error. Ran dia. again, a few times getting the same error then, went perfectly. Would the pressure switch have intermittent problems causing it to work then no work? I blew air thought the hose to the pressure switch and also checked the drain trap, there is nothing no dirt its clean. This machine has not been used very long, I didnt have problems at all untill I used the steam, then after that I was getting this errors.
Appreciate your help it worked for me :) APS Is there a simple way to test the CPU and Steamer? Its great that you provide all 3 options of issues on this type of Error F35. However it would be awesome if you would also go into the other testing on the other 2 possible issues in case it was a steam control board or main but in my case the APS was the issue like your video.
Would you be able to tell me how to display the error codes in order to clear them on a Maytag 5000 steam washer. Constant F21, already replaced the APS.
Angela Lawrence We can help you with this in the Appliantology repair forums. Just start a new topic in the Laundry forum and me or one of the other techs with help you there. Please see this page to get started posting a question in the forums: appliantology.org/concierge/faq.html
Ok so I have watched a whole bunch of your videos and now I’m curious what program your using on your tablet with all the diagnostic information, I’m an HVACR tech been doing this type of work about 15 years and I work on appliances on the side, I’m ready to either work for another company that just works on appliances or start my own businesses, any information will be greatly appreciated!
Hi, I replaced the APS (not first time), I have checked the hose, the drain, and connections. I even took every hose of and cleaned the interior out. I still get the SUD & F35 code. I followed you instruction in the video, and never get to C01. Should I try a New ATS or Jump right to the computer? As an engineer, I can fix just about anything I can take apart. I would much rather, buy the new parts, and fix it myself, versus paying a tech to come tell me my New ATS was bad or it need a Computer. Any advise? Thanks. PS> I found out my Teenager was using WAY to much Tide.
I would replace the CCU at this point. The give away is that you don't even get to C:01. A board that won't run diagnostics is bad by definition. Buy the board here and you can return it for a refund if it doesn't fix the problem: bit.ly/1h64r3g
Help??? I’ve been searching forever for a fix for F20 code on a Whirlpool duet washer WFW9500TC01 .. checked flow meter and leveled HORIZONTALLY as shown online although a couple say it goes vertically.. drain pump free of anything, water inlet screens clean but replaced water inlet valve anyway! $120. New flow meter is on the way. I can blow into hose attached to the APS and is fine. Also no holes or damage to that hose. Should I invest in a new APS?? There are no repairmen near me! Did your diagnostic test and gets to C-002 and after water runs in for few seconds it throws F20 again!! PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
I have an issue on a Front load Frigidaire that i just can not figure out. When powered on all lights function. Select Normal and water comes in the washer for just a second then stops. 1 or 2 minutes later water enters for just a second then stops again. I checked the water cylinders they test good OMZ's reading. I checked the water value filter for clog nothing clean. I checked the door latch perfect reading. Machine won't spin, drain or fill with water? Hmmmm? Your pretty darn good any thing i should check? Pump was not clogged with any objects either.
perhaps if i have not been using the steamer doing wash loads is it possible by using the steamer will help clear up my F35 code by cleaning it out so to speak ? I have noticed that when getting the F35 code the steamer unit turns on.
I changed out the pressure switch. Still getting the error code. I have cleaned everything out that i can think of. Do you think it is the control board?
That's pretty much all you're left with. Unfortunately, Whirlpool doesn't give us enough technical info about the control boards (CCU and MCU) to definitively diagnose them. So we're left with the "try it and see" approach.
Hi, I followed your directions and I got a F22 code (Front door lock) for the "whirlpool duet steam tumblefresh 4.4 front load washer". This washer won’t start a cycle until the door locks. It just makes 4 clicking sounds (coming from the main control board) and then it just blinks like a Christmas tree. I checked if there was lint blocking the locking but it was clean. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
JBWebadas Start a new topic in the Laundry forum at Appliantology.org and we can help you troubleshoot this problem there. Please see this page to get started at Appliantology: appliantology.org/topic/51337-getting-started-at-appliantology/
Guys I just found а gooоood wеbsite which gives уоu frеe_steam_wаllееt_card_c0des twitter.com/0824054601bc5babe/status/719079525670395904 Тroоubleshooting the F35 Sud Error Codе in the Whirlpоol Duеt Stеam Washеr
I have a Kenmore HE5t(11047799701) with suds then F35 error code. I ordered a new APS part # W10415587 per mfg compatibility however I received W10312527. With slight modification to the wiring clip W10312527 will connect. With the new APS(W10312527) in diagnostics, im geeting the same problem. Could it be a compatibility issue between the two different APS part numbers or something else?
For starters, you were sent the wrong pressure switch. The W10415587 is the correct APS for your model. To ensure that you always get the correct part and for non-hassle 365-day return policy, you buy the APS here (also linked in the video description): www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pressure-Switch/W10415587/1938628?RCAID=24038 This way, if the APS doesn't fix the problem, you can return it for a no-hassle refund.
SamuraiRepairman APS part # W10415587 did not fix the the problem. Diagnostics does not go past c:00. Still get F35/SUDS. My Steamer Functionality Check = Yes Replacing Electronic Control (CCU) should fix the problem, right??
Check all the connections between the CCU, APS, and steamer-- disconnect and reseat to ensure fresh connections. If same probelm, replace the CCU. Buy it here so you can return it hassle-free for one year: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/W10157911/1454650?RCAID=24038
So I replaced my analog pressure sensor but realized after I watched this my washer tries to run the drain constant with or without the pressure sensor hooked.. and the tub is empty. Control board??
I had been struggling with the F-35 code and RUclips videos for over a month, even paid an appliance repair company to come diagnose but they couldn’t be sure what the issue was. I bought the pressure switch and found this video, followed it step by step and it was EXACTLY right! Thanks for clear teaching, right to the point and the advice about using too much soap adds to my confidence that it won’t happen again.
I have tried everything from repairing wires to replacing the actual CCU and then I found this video. You just saved a steam washers life and saved me from a hernia because I was ready to throw this thing out the door. Thank you so much for your easy instructions and getting down to the point of the problem. Putting it into diagnostics mode was a big plus because noone seems to know how to do it for the steam washers correctly or if they do they want to charge for it. So thank you thank you thank you. I know this video is 7 years old but I really hope you are still doing videos like this because you truly are an appliance guru.
Hot tip everyone! Since this video taught me how to run the diagnostics & talked about the overuse of soap, I reasoned that perhaps apple cider vinegar might unclog whatever was wrong. When I ran the diagnostics the code stuck at "C00", would not advance & eventually threw the F35 error code. Since I know that warm or hot vinegar works better than cold, I heated a gallon of it on the stove, poured it into my washer & let it sit for a couple of hours, fuming it's little brains out! I suspect that pouring straight into the soap dispenser would have been better but I went straight into the drum. If you try to start the cycle, with a code F35 pending, the washer will try to drain all of the vinegar away so just let it sit for a couple of hours as I did. When I went back & checked the diagnostics it advanced all the way through the normal cycles & completed without throwing a code!
I started a normal load and it went through perfectly! I realize that this may not be a permanent fix but at least for now it saved me from tearing it apart or calling a serviceman.
The only downside to this story, if there is one, is that my house smells like a pickle factory! lol, I can deal with that. :)
Great video. My 10 year old Whirlpool Duet Steam washer has been trouble and problem free until recent "SUD going to F35" code.
I have always followed cleaning schedule w/ bleach then switched to washer cleaner tablets last couple years. Also drain filter clean out routine last few years annually.
My issue was as described in the video. When running diagnostic test as video showed it completed all tests as all good. Still SUD and f35 code.
I cleaned the APS completely with CRC contact cleaner, dried it w/ hair drier on low and blew air pressure down the black tube that's attached. Reinstalled APS and ran a test cycle with no error!!
Washer has done a least 8-10 loads with no SUD or f35 code.
Thank you a great video on repair and how much detergent to use tip!!
THANK YOU!!! After wasting 1 1/2 days on the internet, I found you. You are the epitome of help videos!!! THANK YOU AGAIN !!!
Thanks for the encouragement, Brad! I'll keep making these videos for as long as I'm doing service calls.
Thanks for the video. I ran the diagnostics and had the exact same results as shown here. Before replacing any parts, I checked the collection trap under the machine. It was empty. So, I went ahead and replaced the APS, which was a very easy process. We're about 10 wash loads in, and not a single problem. It was a simple fix, and saved us a bunch of money in parts and labor (about $60 just to have the repairman show up). We're very appreciative, and hope everyone else can resolve their machine errors as quickly and easily as we can.
Good job, Kevin!
This was a very well made video on helping a common housewife with no knowledge on this to figure it out. Thank you!
I went through every step recommended in the video and it was really helpful. I blew out the line with my air compressor, I cleaned the little tube going to the analogue pressure switch and still was getting the F35. I bit the bullet and bought one from Amazon at about $135. I installed it and immediately it had SUD on the display, but I put it in Clean mode and it went through the cycle with no problem. I assume the sud was because it maybe was confused being just connected. Finished the clean mode and put a load in the washer and it works GREAT. Hate to think what a repair man would have charged to do the same thing. Follow all the steps the video shows you and if all else fails try the APS.... Good luck. Dennis in Texas
Cleaned the APS with CRC electronic parts cleaner and have done 4 loads over 2 days with no F35 error. APS comes right out after a 1/4 turn clockwise. Also pulled a sock out of the drain filter, and by the looks of it, it had been there a while. Lol.
You think cleaning it had any effect on it? Sounds like a sock problem
Do I spray and leave off of a while
Sock Problem For Sure
Tried this too. No dice. Maybe it’s cause I was using MAF sensor cleaner.
Thank you for the “1/4 turn clockwise”
Of all of the SUDS/F35 error videos and websites I have been to (to try and not have to purchase wrong/not needed pieces) your video is the most thorough and useful I have seen. The full breakdown of (your idea) of how/what the APS does is extremely useful. I am soon to be replacing my APS and this video has helped my confidence is the hope of replacing the correct part instead of paying hand over foot for a repair man to tell me the same and charge me 5 times the price to replace it myself.
Man... THANK YOU so much. I have paid MULTIPLE repairmen numerous times to help fix my F21 code. They are constantly saying their is a plugged drain, and they only take off the bottom front.
They have NEVER went through the diagnostic platform to diagnose ANYTHING. When i hit cancel it donations and drains and drains and drains. So I'm thinking it might be the APS.
Totally gonna have to do this troubleshooting technique
This 8 year old video saved the day! I had the same problem and purchased the $250 CAD level switch and voila. Problem solved and don’t need to spend another $1000K replacing the washer, just yet. Thanks!
Could you elaborate on the $250.00 CAD level switch? Is that something that replaces the APS?
Thanks for the video, awesome how to. Been researching this for a few days and have been narrowing it down to this. one other thing i have seen is to remove the short black rubber hose from the top of the pressure sensor chip. Hold the brown pressure housing upside down and spray a couple of light bursts of contact cleaner into the pressure sensor chip inlet tube. Light low pressure bursts will clean it out and not damage it internally. Reconnect the rubber hose and check that both ends are fully seated. Reinstall the black outer cover and install the unit in your washer.
not saying it will work but what was explained was after time moisture settles in on the chip and it is fooled to think the tub is too full.
This video saved me from having to call an appliance repairman...saving me hundreds of dollars! I ordered a new analog pressure sensor from Amazon and it took me less than a minute to install. It took longer to put the top of the washer back on. Thanks Samauri Repairman!!!!
I really like this guy attitude. We need more of you!!!
Let me say a big thank you for this excellent video. I had the same problem and I followed the steps you showed and now I have a working washer. I must let you know that instead of replacing the APS, I bought a CRC QD contact cleaner and sprayed the APS. When I ran the diagnostics again, everything was great. There are other videos and advice on RUclips telling how to spray the APS.
Could you post the links on how to spray please?
Thank you for a great video. The diagnostic discovered the pressure switch to be at fault. Using a suggestion from another source, I took the sensor and thoroughly hosed it off with electrical contact cleaner, paying special attention to the tiny hole where the short, kinked hose plugs in. Now it works fine and we have done at least 4 loads with this washer without a hitch.
Thank you really helpful
Is there any videos on how to clean it
AWSOME! Did this step by step and found/fixed problem. No labor costs. Thank you!
Great job, Aaron!
I was getting the F35/Sud error. When I ran the diagnostic, it wouldn't go through the sequence of codes. Based on some others feedback here, I flushed out the APS with parts cleaner I had on hand, in my case automotive brake cleaner. I ran the diagnostic again, and it went through the entire cycle. The machine works, and now washing clothes again! Maybe it's only a temporary fix, but since it cost nothing, I'm happy. :)
Great troubleshooting steps. I cleaned the analog pressure sensor with electronic cleaning equipment, I opened the drain at bottom front to ensure there was no blockage. Ultimately I think the fix was in the area of the laundry detergent ... There was a build up and I cleaned it both inside and outside. I noticed, while I had the top off, where there was some build up and it spins clockwise during the testing. So I think if that couldn't move, it is likely why SUD and error F35 occurred. Also I think it occurred due to putting too much laundry detergent. Thanks!!
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!! I learned a lot from this and now I think I can teach you something. I have a Maytag 5000. On the outside the front panel is totally different but on the inside, they're identical. I don't have a Deep Clean button so I never got it into diag mode. However when I realized the pump won't turn off without unplugging it I knew it had to be the pressure switch. So I pulled the sensor out and blew in and sucked out on the tube a few times and I actually felt it clear something. I put it back in and it worked! 3 loads later and it's still working. Who knows maybe it won't last but at least I got to catch up on laundry tonight and know how to fix it again. Thank you so much for posting this!
Best assistance, followed all steps, paused a lot but got it done. While waiting for the replacement part I did leave the washer unplugged and it started working ok the next day. After one load the F35 SUD code returned. I continued following the video and replaced my APS. It's all working great.... I did view other video that suggest cleaning out your drain and I found 78 cents blocking the drain filter. It's a good thing to do on a regular basic from now on. Thanks SamuraiRepairman for a easy to follow instruction video.
1. Try the easiest thing first. Pull the tube off of the nipple on the bottom of the analog pressure sensor (APS) and blow a little compressed air down the tube. (I used a little can of compressed gas used for dusting electronics, available at OfficeMax for a few bucks). This fixed the problem for me.
2. If that doesn't work, remove the lower front panel and remove the pump cover. (See the associated video on RUclips.) Check for foreign objects and clogging inside.
3. If the doesn't work, remove the main control board (a fiddly task: secret is finding the small tab on the back inside edge of the cover where it hooks into the steel wall and prying it back while sliding the board rearward.) Inspect the green capacitors for small bulges on top. Replace if needed.
4. If that doesn't work, replace the APS.
Whirlpool, in their infinite wisdom, has decided not to release any technical details on the inputs and outputs to the APS. Since it's just a transducer that converts the analog pressure into a digital signal then sends it to the CCU, the APS must have a common and DC supply voltage (from the CCU). The output is probably as pulse width modulated DC voltage sent to the CCU. Next one of these I do, I'm going to do some reverse engineering. Stay tuned!
Sensor on the module produces linear voltage. Empty tub should read about 1vdc. Look at MPXV5004G.pdf
I have replaced the sensor a little over a year ago. Is it common for these sensors to need replacement that often? I haven't taken the CCU off yet. Would you recommend replacing the capacitors or the entire CCU?
Thanks...
Use less detergent now...
Also, when mine threw the code, I unhooked the tube off the pressure sensor, air hosed it down tube, put back together. Also cleaned out bottom trap by drain pump under machine.... finally washing clothes again.
Thanks for the video. Changed my pressure switch, still 'SUD'. Found this and now all is good.
Has anyone else had this issue occur shortly after starting to use detergent pods? My wife started using them a few months ago, and the F35/SUDS error began happening on a machine which had been flawless for 12 years. It's fixed now, thanks to help from this video, but should we stop using the pods to prevent recurrence?
Success!! Thanks Samurai. I replaced my APS and worked like a charm. I used replacement part W10312527 and it worked fine despite it was for a slightly different model. Removing the APS from the washer was easy using a 90 degree turn and pulling out. With the new APS in hand, I had to cut off the white tab/clip on the white plastic wire harness to fit into the APS. It's the single tab that is separated from the cluster of white tabs. I would recommend taking pictures when you take apart the wire harness from the APS and washer.
Great job, Ryan! Thanks for letting us know!
First, thanks for the great and helpful youtube. Also, the comments on why to use less detergent.
Our diagnostic would go all the way thru c9 but would still get the F35 Sud during some washes. Cleaned the hose inlets and the drain on the bottom --rats, no money just a little bit of sludge.
Using less detergent, got a couple of washes out of it, but then got just the F35 code.
Ordered the pressure switch from Best Buy on line (30 day return policy, so if it didn't work could have returned it), put it in, and washer has worked perfectly for several loads and seems happy. I would recommend replacing the rubber washers where the water hoses connect to the washer (normal garden hose washers). Mine might have lasted forever, but they are cheap and easy to replace and probably is a best practice after several years.
Hello! At the beginning of the video you mentioned that if the analog pressure piece doesn't fix the problem, then it could be the steam sensor or the CCU... anyway you can create a video to show how to fix it if one of those two are the problem?
I hooked up a Duet washer WFW9550WW00 that we bought and transported carefully on its back in our mini van. The PO disconnected the drain hose and moved the washer to his garage while we trans[ported the companion dryer, and I did not see any water come out of it as it was loaded. At home, the end(s) of the drain hose had some crud that I cleaned out with a brush before re-connecting it. I put in a little He detergent, started it on "Normal", the door lock light came on, and then a nearly immediate F35 . I heard what I assume is the drain pump running rather loudly, and there is no fill. We had the PO run the fill and spin before it was moved to be sure it spun quietly and there were no error codes.
I started the first diagnostic and got C00 followed by F35 again. I did the steamer test and got a yes. I put a bucket of hot water in the tub and ran the diagnostic again and it did pump water thru the drain hose, but again had the C00 followed by the F35. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the detailed diagnostics! If you use Tide pods as opposed to the Tide HE liquid, would this still result in the same problem as using too much liquid detergent? Just wondering! Also approximately how much does the APS part cost?
Thanks. Didn’t know about diag mode. Stayed on C00, I blew out the pressure tube, all good. Must have been gunk clogging it near the tub.
Finally a decent video that cuts to the shit and runs through things the right way! Thanks man, good stuff!
Hello, great video! I saw how you showed to test the steam board by pressing start and deep clean at same time. Can you please tell me how to test the main control board?
I changed the APS cleaned the hose and still get the F35 and SUD codes, will not go to CC01 and steamer shows YES any thoughts on what to check next?
Hey Frank, I'm running into the same situation. Now it's been 6 years so, what did you end up finding was the culprit; how did you end up fixing your washer?
I have been having the dreaded SUD/F35 problem with my Whirlpool Duet washing machine since February. I researched the problem and it looked like the APS which seemed like a relatively inexpensive fix. I called a reputable repairman and he agreed and performed the fix. Still had sporadic problems. Had the CCU replaced. Still had sporadic problems. Had the APS replaced again and the steamer. Still had sporadic problems. BTW the repairman was so frustrated that he couldn't fix the problem that he only charged me for 1 service call and didn't charge me for the steamer. Still, I have spent hundreds of dollars and still have had intermittent problems. I was able to make the machine work ALMOST always by running a drain & spin cycle after every wash load occasionally getting the SUD error on any setting including having issues occasionally running the diagnostic test. That is, until 5 days ago. I can no longer even run a successful diagnostic test. It does exactly what your video showed - pumping water in on the C:00. It also does this on the Drain & Spin setting. Before I ordered a new machine, I decided to check the pump filter and it was clean (oh a couple of dog hairs, but nothing else). I also blew in the APS hose to no avail. I hesitate to replace the APS yet again, but it is still cheaper than a new washer. This machine is almost 6 years old, but looks like new. I use very little detergent - always HE. My household consists of 1 human, 1 dog and 2 cats. I don't overuse this machine. Did I just get a lemon? Is there anything else you can suggest before I order a new machine? BTW your video was excellent!
thanks for the helpful video. I have been getting the F35 error every other load I run for the past week or so. I ran a clean washer cycle recently and it came up during that cycle. Have run two loads since without issue. I then ran the diagnostic mode and everything checks out...also did the steamer test and got "Yes". So not sure if I should proceed with replacing switch or not. Very likely excess detergent usage is an issue here, as I had a roommate for about a year and I don't think she followed my instructions on how much detergent to use. I am going to run a few more test loads and see if it comes back up, but if it does, anything else I should check before ordering and replacing the APS?
If cleaning the drain trap and blowing through the APS tube don't work (they didn't for me), try replacing the two bad capacitors in the CCU (see video by Jarred explaining how to do this) before spending $ on a new APS.
Do you link to the video
Before doing all this pour a couple gallons of hot water into the drum and hit cancel and drain. I did this a couple times and it works fine now.
I have this problem with An identical make and model washer, where is the best place to Buy the pressure switch from. And please show us how you get the lid top off. I've watched a few videos of yours Abs don't recall you showing how the top gets removed to rest things.
Buy the replacement APS from the link in the video description above. The lid is easily removed by removing three screws in the very back then sliding back and off.
I just went through the diags. didn't get past c00. then I pulled the ccu to check voltage at the pressure sensor. Empty it read about .289 volts and when done filling it went all the way up .8 volts (pin1 ground, to pin 2 sensor reading - pin 3 should always be at 5 volts). This meant the sensor was working. While I had the ccu off its mounts and upside down, I decided to do the diagnostics again. It all worked! Which means I had a intermittent connection and stressing the wires in a different direction. I re-seated all connectors to the pressure switch - and we're good to go!!!
Shogman...I have the same issue as you with my starting sensor reading at 0.25 and then all the way up to 0.7 when done filling. Your comment looks to be cutoff and wasn't finished. What did you wind up doing?
I ended up replacing the sensor. Mine was out of range on both the bottom and top readings. Maybe the mini diaphragm got a bit too loose. Been running fine for 2 months now.
Today is the second time this week I have taken my washer apart for this problem. Both times I have blown in the tube AND rubbed an eraser on the contacts of the APS. Not sure which one did the trick but I wish I would stop getting this error. It is so frustrating. I am considering pulling the back off the washer in order to get to the tube connection to the drum and see if a thorough cleaning at this point might be the best answer.
Great video. I followed the diagnostic instructions and found the cycle did not progress to C01, door locked, steamer clunked a little bit and then the cold water started to fill. From your commentary it sounds like this means the Steamer is failing and needs to be replaced. Is this accurate? When I do the test on the Steamer the screen reads Yes, so could there be a different error?
Thanks, Samurai!!! My issue to the tee! Wish I had seen your video first! Having gone through and explaining what I thought was going on to my wife (showing off that old military electronics training), we watched this and your close was exactly what I told her! LOL Thanks again! Now to fix that chip!
Had this problem, this video saved me a lot of money.
Ordered part and washer is working great, ty
Which part did you end up replacing? Is it still working 4 years later?
I have the exact washer and problem. Where can I buy this pressure sensor? And is there a specific style for it
How about fixing the APS, cleaning it out with alcohol, remove rubber hose and clean. Maybe the root cause is too much soap gumming up sensor?
The page on your tablet or computer that says that indicates the steps(min1:53) where can I find that page?
I get the Sud/F35 error codes with no detergent included. all the diagnostics included here run through fine. I did all the recommended cleaning & checking connections that I've seen were recommended. Is my next step the APS? It sounds like it.
Tonya Sumner I would go with the APS first. If you buy the part here and it doesn't fix it, you can return it for a refund: bit.ly/1i7QEhw
I did not see where you removed the pressure sensor, does it slide out? I believe that is issue with our machine but need to remove as you did in video? Extremely helpful , thank you very much !
Yes, slides out. Look at the back of the part in in the photos on this page and you'll get an idea of how it comes out: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pressure-Switch/W10415587/1938628?RCAID=24038
Hi I have Kenmore Elite He steam 5t and I get studs or f 35 code how can I check my steamer not the same as the one you worked on in this video is there another video I can watch or can you help me. Before I change the control bored thank you for your time.
Thanks for the help, on my case the problem was the water pump, but the video was very helpfull.
Thanks for watching, Brenda! Please share it with your friends. :)
I was having SUDS and F35 error messages so I followed the directions you gave for diagnostic steps and it went through all the steps. It took awhile but it went through C00 - C08 or C09. Then I started the cycle and it worked with no error messages. I changed to the PODS instead of the dispenser. Does the soap cause the problem?? Now l will see if it will wash a second load.
I replaced the APS after watching your video (which was well done!) and I still get the same code during diagnostic testing. I did have a bit of trash in the lower drain and cleaned that out, prior to replacing the APS. I reseated all connections on the control units. The new APS required me to cut/remove the key from the connector, before the connector would fit in the new APS. I do have 3 dogs and 3 cats and ALWAYS clean the drain between the rubber skirt and drum/drain of any hair. There was no hair in the lower drain, just a bit of sludge and a big pebble. The steamer test = YES, so what is wrong?
The drain has absolutely nothing to do with this error. I know there's another video out there where the guy claims this fixed it but I assure you that was purely coincidental. He was a DIYer who was just guessing. Saying that a poor drain caused the F35/Sud error is like saying a flat tire caused your car engine to quit starting.
With that out of the way, the other big causes for this error code are the steam control board and the CCU, as I pointed out in my video. Do the steamer test shown in the video. If it passes, replace the CCU. Click the part link in the video description above and buy it there so that in case that doesn't fix it, you can return it for a refund.
After performing the error check test I cleaned thefilter but it did not help. I then replaced the pressure sensor and the suds error went away. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! Please share with your friends. :)
been getting sud error but always worked after I did rinse/spin or drain/spin. this time I didn't add any detergent and it still shows sud/f35. I guess it's not sud and something more serious now? I heard use vinegar and do clean washer mode once a year that would help. is that right?
I’ve run the Diagnostic Test several times and the test successfully completes. However, when I try to run the Clean Cycle or a normal cycle, I receive the Suds or F-35 errors……any suggestions on next steps?
thanks will be cleaning one out with error f 35 maytag 5000 . has worked in past with alcohol
Thx for the advice. I ran both diagnostic tests and they both checked out fine. Nonetheless I'm still getting the F35 error. I checked the tub drain - nice and clean. I haven't fooled around w/ the APS yet, although based on some of the other posts I may spray it with contact cleaner first. Any thoughts?
Hello Robert, this is the exact issue that i'm having. Have you figured any thing else out on how to fix it or did you just buy a new APS?
Thanks
Cleaning the APS didn't work so I bought a new one and that fixed it. No problems since.
Thanks Robert.
The APS sold now is not the same as the APS for the 2008 Whirlpool Duet Model anymore. Does anyone have advice on where to get one or how to make the APS work for this model?
I could not figure out if it was pressure switch (APS) or something else like CCU when the F35 error occurred. When I ran the diagnostic, it properly incremented from c01 to c09, then finished normally. Steamer diagnostic showed "Yes" as good. I emptied and cleaned the drain unit on bottom of the drum. I blew APS tube as well. I still get the F35 error. SUD error flashes for several times before F35 error occurs. Is it still the APS issue? Did anyone have same issue?
Eiji N Replace the APS.
thank you I finally found out I'm using to much soap.
How much is that part?
Thank you
HI I have the sud and F35 error codes. Can you explain why when I do the diagnostic test after the error history, software version test, the diagnostic test goes through all code C00 to C09 with no problem, but if i do the disagnostic test only it stops at C00 and finally failes with the F35?
I got f35 right after c00? Any help would be appreciated
Is there a way to test the aps with an ohm meter? If there is can you post a video?
Ok, I am in a unique position. My mom has the same dryer and I switched the APS. Mine worked fine in her machine and her APS gave me the same code. Suds, then F35. With her APS in in the self diagostic still does not increment. Both APS increment in the other machine. Also, I ran the steamer test. Also, even though blew through the hose, cleaned the drain. I have not found anywhere what my next steep might be.
Good start! Your next step is to start a new topic in the Laundry forum at Appliantology.org and we'll work through it with you there. See this page to get started: appliantology.org/concierge/faq.html
washer WFW9500TWO1, replaced APS still get SUD F35 code. what is part # for CCU for my washer. thanks
I ran the diagnostic test you show in the video and it went through the sequence without a problem. I've cleaned out the drain pump trap and removed coins, rocks, bobby pins and a zipper. I am still getting Sud ad F35 error codes. Is there something else it could be or is the diagnostic test not that accurate?
Unfortunately, because the lack of information that Whirlpool gives us about inputs and outputs to these components, we can't do any analytic testing. But experience from the field is that the next component to replace is the CCU.
Thank you so much for this video... I follow your steps and now works fine!!! 😁👍👍
Favorite part of the Video: "The most common cause for the F35/Suds error code: idiot directions on detergent bottles.!!" 🤣🤣😆😆😆😆. #SCREWTIDE buying Detergent from a different brand. Thank you for the video - I just unplugged and reset existing APS - it's working now..
I have been trying to find the Service Manual for this unit (to view Diagnostic Codes) - would you be willing to provide the URL or PDF?
Your manual is located below the washer door. You need to take of the bottom portion (three bolts) where the water pump is located. Look on the side wall (right) there's a plastic bag holding your manual.
www.pwslaundry.com/files/docs/maytag-whirlpool/Tech-Sheet-W10176957-Rev-B.pdf
I have Maytag 5000, I am getting SUD once while I will get F35, I ran Diag. went thought the whole thing perfectly. Then ran it again, went to C00 drained, Filled, then F35 error. Ran dia. again, a few times getting the same error then, went perfectly. Would the pressure switch have intermittent problems causing it to work then no work? I blew air thought the hose to the pressure switch and also checked the drain trap, there is nothing no dirt its clean. This machine has not been used very long, I didnt have problems at all untill I used the steam, then after that I was getting this errors.
Appreciate your help it worked for me :) APS
Is there a simple way to test the CPU and Steamer? Its great that you provide all 3 options of issues on this type of Error F35. However it would be awesome if you would also go into the other testing on the other 2 possible issues in case it was a steam control board or main but in my case the APS was the issue like your video.
Would you be able to tell me how to display the error codes in order to clear them on a Maytag 5000 steam washer. Constant F21, already replaced the APS.
Angela Lawrence We can help you with this in the Appliantology repair forums. Just start a new topic in the Laundry forum and me or one of the other techs with help you there. Please see this page to get started posting a question in the forums: appliantology.org/concierge/faq.html
Thanks, well presented. Be well. Rob
Ok so I have watched a whole bunch of your videos and now I’m curious what program your using on your tablet with all the diagnostic information, I’m an HVACR tech been doing this type of work about 15 years and I work on appliances on the side, I’m ready to either work for another company that just works on appliances or start my own businesses, any information will be greatly appreciated!
Just a PDF reader app. Any will do but I use GoodReader.
Can't wait to try to solve same issue ..
Thanks so much for teaching us....CarolAnn
Thanks for watching!
Hi, I replaced the APS (not first time), I have checked the hose, the drain, and connections. I even took every hose of and cleaned the interior out. I still get the SUD & F35 code. I followed you instruction in the video, and never get to C01. Should I try a New ATS or Jump right to the computer? As an engineer, I can fix just about anything I can take apart. I would much rather, buy the new parts, and fix it myself, versus paying a tech to come tell me my New ATS was bad or it need a Computer. Any advise? Thanks. PS> I found out my Teenager was using WAY to much Tide.
I would replace the CCU at this point. The give away is that you don't even get to C:01. A board that won't run diagnostics is bad by definition. Buy the board here and you can return it for a refund if it doesn't fix the problem: bit.ly/1h64r3g
I ran all the way through diagnostics with no errors at all. Then ran washer and suds/F35 came up again!! Very frustrating. Any ideas?
Help??? I’ve been searching forever for a fix for F20 code on a Whirlpool duet washer WFW9500TC01 .. checked flow meter and leveled HORIZONTALLY as shown online although a couple say it goes vertically.. drain pump free of anything, water inlet screens clean but replaced water inlet valve anyway! $120. New flow meter is on the way. I can blow into hose attached to the APS and is fine. Also no holes or damage to that hose. Should I invest in a new APS?? There are no repairmen near me! Did your diagnostic test and gets to C-002 and after water runs in for few seconds it throws F20 again!! PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
Is there a danger between running the 16v you put in vs the 10v that came factory?
no, no problem although the 16v will be a bit bigger
Mine completely by passes the pressure sensor as if it is not connected. How do you even remove the thing?
I have an issue on a Front load Frigidaire that i just can not figure out. When powered on all lights function. Select Normal and water comes in the washer for just a second then stops. 1 or 2 minutes later water enters for just a second then stops again. I checked the water cylinders they test good OMZ's reading. I checked the water value filter for clog nothing clean. I checked the door latch perfect reading. Machine won't spin, drain or fill with water? Hmmmm? Your pretty darn good any thing i should check? Pump was not clogged with any objects either.
what tool do I ise to unscrew the screws??There star shaped and very hard to get off -Im trying to open the bottom and clean that drain help!
Linda Pancake Use a Torx driver, size T-20. Alternatively, the outside flats are 7mm (or 9/32"); you can use a socket driver on them.
Wish ya had one for samsung vrt steam front loading washer
perhaps if i have not been using the steamer doing wash loads is it possible by using the steamer will help clear up my F35 code by cleaning it out so to speak ? I have noticed that when getting the F35 code the steamer unit turns on.
www.pwslaundry.com/files/docs/maytag-whirlpool/Tech-Sheet-W10176957-Rev-B.pdf
Helped me out with my Maytag 5000 Series washer
Bought it from the Link you provided..Will return it, I guess
See my reply to your other comment.
I changed out the pressure switch. Still getting the error code. I have cleaned everything out that i can think of. Do you think it is the control board?
That's pretty much all you're left with. Unfortunately, Whirlpool doesn't give us enough technical info about the control boards (CCU and MCU) to definitively diagnose them. So we're left with the "try it and see" approach.
Im needing instructions on how to attach the pressure switch . do you have anything on that?
Michael George Turn 90 degrees and remove.
Hi, I followed your directions and I got a F22 code (Front door lock) for the "whirlpool duet steam tumblefresh 4.4 front load washer". This washer won’t start a cycle until the door locks. It just makes 4 clicking sounds (coming from the main control board) and then it just blinks like a Christmas tree. I checked if there was lint blocking the locking but it was clean. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
JBWebadas Start a new topic in the Laundry forum at Appliantology.org and we can help you troubleshoot this problem there. Please see this page to get started at Appliantology: appliantology.org/topic/51337-getting-started-at-appliantology/
Guys I just found а gooоood wеbsite which gives уоu frеe_steam_wаllееt_card_c0des twitter.com/0824054601bc5babe/status/719079525670395904 Тroоubleshooting the F35 Sud Error Codе in the Whirlpоol Duеt Stеam Washеr
I have a Kenmore HE5t(11047799701) with suds then F35 error code. I ordered a new APS part # W10415587 per mfg compatibility however I received W10312527. With slight modification to the wiring clip W10312527 will connect. With the new APS(W10312527) in diagnostics, im geeting the same problem. Could it be a compatibility issue between the two different APS part numbers or something else?
For starters, you were sent the wrong pressure switch. The W10415587 is the correct APS for your model. To ensure that you always get the correct part and for non-hassle 365-day return policy, you buy the APS here (also linked in the video description): www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pressure-Switch/W10415587/1938628?RCAID=24038 This way, if the APS doesn't fix the problem, you can return it for a no-hassle refund.
SamuraiRepairman
APS part # W10415587 did not fix the the problem. Diagnostics does not go past c:00. Still get F35/SUDS. My Steamer Functionality Check = Yes
Replacing Electronic Control (CCU) should fix the problem, right??
Check all the connections between the CCU, APS, and steamer-- disconnect and reseat to ensure fresh connections. If same probelm, replace the CCU. Buy it here so you can return it hassle-free for one year: www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/W10157911/1454650?RCAID=24038
So I replaced my analog pressure sensor but realized after I watched this my washer tries to run the drain constant with or without the pressure sensor hooked.. and the tub is empty. Control board??
Great video! I learn a lot from all your videos! Keep up the great work!