The biggest longevity issue I have encountered is the input shaft splines. They almost all go “BANG” into reverse due to spline stop. Eventually the splines will wear to the point of skipping. The “AWD” function of the case, even with worn clutches, is superb and the trucks have surprisingly good handling and very even tire wear. I wish I could experience one with proper clutch operation, it must be insane. Also, the low range unit should be held together by a snap ring under the rear steel cover. If you wanted, there is a plug on the bottom of the case about midway between the sprockets; that is a chain-test location. With the case in neutral and the truck lifted or tires chocked, a screwdriver can be used to check the condition of chain stretch. If the screwdriver can push the chain inwards more than 1/2” from the point of contact, it is considered to be excessively worn.
the other thing I do like about this case is how tucked up it is between the frame rails. My skid plate only drops down an inch below the frame to cover the case, that's pretty dang good! that being said, the old borg warner is getting replaced this winter with a 203/205 doubler! pure beef!
Days of Pain and Victory the high-clearance nature of the chassis saved my bacon many times. I high-centered my Jeep and frame banged rocks and “Curbs” many times, but even the aluminum hi-cap transmission pan was unscathed. They took a lot of consideration when designing almost every single aspect on these Jeeps, axles, spring perches, shock mounts, steering, everything was carefully designed for maximum off-road thrashability. Honestly, the weakest link was the radiator size.
Bro this was super informative! I need more of this build. I wish you showed the parts where you put the BJs kit on (like a walkthrough) I would greatly help novices like myself! I plan on keeping the 1339 in my 78 Chief so and info and walkthroughs I can get on it would help! Also I would be interested to see how the lever you made to replace the vacuum line for the true 4x4 is holding up nowadays and what that linkage looks like! Would you be interested in making another for purchase? I'm sure myself and other FSJ guys on Facebook and the FSJ Forums would love to have one!
Thanks! as far as the parts, I actually only used the output seals. The gaskets for between the case halves did not fit well at all so I reused the old gaskets and some RTV. I'm planning on replacing this t-case with an NP 203/205 doubler, but have a few items that have to be finished ahead of that. First, I'm rebuild the AMC 360. then I need to rebuild the th400 with a GM output shaft so it will mate to the np 203 low range box. then get the doubler together! I've thought about making a kit for the linkage, but just not sure if the return on investment will be there. I think it would be better if it was cable operated, I might play with that idea more this summer. If I actually do something with that i'll try to remember to reach out to you! Thanks for watching!
This is amazing. Trying to figure out if I have the conversion kit, the truck did come with the lock/unlock spindles. Anyway to tell without taking apart?
If your vacuum actuator still works you can put it in park, disengage the hubs, and cycle it in and out of 4x4 using the actuator in the glove box, checking if the front driveline will spin freely by hand when the 4x4 is disengaged. Does that make sense?
No problem, thanks for watching! I believe since I made this video, BJ's off road now has their own chain for it, made in the USA, which is great since morse doesn't make them anymore. I've been running mine on 37s and wheeling pretty hard, but no lockers yet. It will be interesting to see how it holds up after I spool the rear end and get the 360 freshened up
not for my application, it doesn't seem to like the 37s, pretty sure I spun the splines off the mile marker part time kit, it's making some bad noises. I do like having an automatic for wheeling though. Planning on swapping out the t-case for an NP 203/205 doubler in 2022
@@DaysofPainandVictory the 205 seems to be better than the 203. The 203 is still chain drivers. The 205 is gear driven. I’ll do that. Thanks for the info. Hope the 205 works on the rear of my Cherokee. Since these rear ends are offset to the passenger side.
@@joecruz4846 yeah i'll just be using the low range box from the 203, mating that to the front of the 205 so i can have a 2:1 low and a 4:1 low. I've got center rear diff now with the Eaton ho72 and still running the borg warner, should still work for you. the 205 is fairly indestructible from what I understand
Great video, when you lost vacuum at the actuator did you lose all movement forward and reverse? I just got a 74 J10 and it doesn't go in forward or reverse. the actuator doesn't hold vacuum but I do have vacuum on the line. Not sure how this system works yet. Thanks
@@DaysofPainandVictory Thanks, another thing, when I put it in park I heard a clicking sounds like the trans was turning. sounded like it would if you put it in park while you were still moving.
There's a lot of theories on what will and won't work with this transfer case when it comes to traction devices. But I really don't see why selectable lockers f/r wouldn't be totally fine as long as you engaged them only when the case is locked in e-drive? If that would work, I'd be real happy. Then I'd have the excellent slick road manners of the full time case, but have the ability to go triple locked when off road. Hmmm...
Great video! I've got a 76 CJ7 with that transfer case and will be copying you. Is there anything different you would do now that it is a couple years later?
Thanks! yes there are a couple things. 1. redo the shifter so it pushes straight on the linkage. I originally thought the slight angle that my current shifter pushed on the linkage was no big deal because it doesn't take much pressure to shift it, but the angle puts the shift rod in the case in a bind. 2. Make sure i had more clearance between the transmission tunnel and the linkage on the t-case. I ended up with a broken shift fork because the t-case rotated hard and slammed the linkage against the tunnel. 3. buy new c-clips for the shift rod (had one fall off because it was loose) 4. maybe figure out how to do a cable actuated shifter. thanks for watching! good luck!
Great Video. Thanks. We have a 04 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L with Quadra-Drive all time 4x4. When turning on pavement at a slow speed (parking lot), the front tires jump while turning. We wonder if the viscous coupling (VC) in the transfer case is going bad or is something with the front diff. We replaced all the front inner axle bearings and wheel hubs. The bearings showed wear and they made noise. Any suggestions on the front wheels jumping. Definitely a 4x4 issue??? Thanks.
If it were my rig I’d swap in an np242. The np 242 gives you 2wd, full-time 4wd (for pavement), 4wd hi, and 4wd lo. It will bolt right in, just pay attention to the spline count, there were a few options. Also may need to change drive shafts, but should be able to find factory ones that are the right length
Is there a way to test the viscous coupling with the TC in the car, as it would be nice to know if this needs any attention. I have Quadra-trac on a 1998 Grand Cherokee. Thanks.
@@n.c.j.5556 I think it would be more work than it is worth, the borg warner case has the "Texas" bolt pattern, not the circle bolt pattern so it would require a special plate and some machine work. definitely not worth it with this case. Also, how big are you wanting to go? I'm at about a 6 inch lift now with 37s, I did push the front axle forward 1.5'' and the rear 4'' which helps with drive line angles. I don't want to go any higher with suspension. I'll cut more sheet metal if i ever want 40-42'' tires
Thanks for this video now i understand how these work. My 76 J10 has the 1305 without the low range.. i do have a spare 1339 with low range. I fully rebuult this ttucks bed floors got it running.. changed all my fluids.. including the tcl1 crown fluid for the quadratrac. The fluid looked ok the magnet on the nut did have microscopic shavings on it. Only driven 600 miles.. it drives fine on pavement.. turning etc.. but if i fully lock and turn lile say a sharp u turn and step on the gas.. and let go of my wheel so it returns to center.. the steering wheel wiggles left/right. Like its binding. Im wondering if this crown TCL1 is really up to snuff or not. As it wasnt doing this when i first got it going but its been doing it recently. Should I get some lsd additive and put a few oz in there and see if it helps ? I dont wanna ruin the Transfrrcase if crown tcl1 isnt working right. But i also worry adding more lsd additive will keep the 4wd from working right due to too much friction modifier. Almost seems like i gatta add some though due to steeribg wheel wiggle i feel whwn fully turned. Add a little until that goes away if that makes sense
Hey man that's a pretty Cool video... i watched it like 20 times trying to duplicate your linkage system with no luck lol. there is any way that you can sell me your system as a kit for my cj7 ??? I need one so bad and i don't wan't to deal with vacum any more thanks
Maybe this summer, don't have time to replicate it right now. I'm hoping to ditch the Borg Warner this year for an np203/205 doubler! so when that happens, this t-case and transmission will be for sale. Thanks for watching
david bradley really good! Much more reliable than the vacuum system. Working on an update video now but have been a little preoccupied with Brian’s TJ.
Sorry to vehemently disagree with you. This is the best transfer case made in its day. Owners loved their Jeeps equipped with this T-case. The real secret is the viscous coupling.
yes in it's day, but it is inefficient, poor aftermarket support, It's difficult to find the good Morse chain anymore, and in a hardcore wheeling application, it is not ideal. I do like the off-set front and rear drivelines, the 2.62:1 low range, and how it is tucked up completely between the frame rails. thanks for watching!
@@DaysofPainandVictory It is still better than 90% of the T-Cases out there. As for parts I'm not sure where you are shopping but here are but a few sources: www.bjsoffroad.com/QuadraTrac-BW1339-BW1305-Parts_c_231.html www.morris4x4center.com/quadra-trac-transfer-case-parts-for-jeep-cj7-with-automatic-transmission.html www.crownautomotive.net/Quadra-Trac-Parts.html
@@petemcl99 thanks for the mention! Our chains and cones at BJ's Off-Road are Made in the USA! Note that other companies chains are made in china and will stretch in short order, ours is remade here in the states to the same specs as the original Morse chain was.
@@bjsoffroad That is good to hear. That is such a good transfer case when set up properly. Most chains get stretched when people drive it in the locked mode which does not let the front-rear differentiation occur on turns. Using the wrong fluid can cause problems also just as it does in a posi-traction or track-lok axle. Most folks don't understand 4WD vehicle power flow. A Quadratrac T-case in the normal, unlocked mode actually transfers power to non-slipping axles. I have been across some very rugged terrain with Jeep vehicles so equipped including the Rubicon Trail and the performance has been outstanding. Removing it and going back to a non-differentiating T-case is a step backwards in time.
@@petemcl99 Very good point. It shocked me when he said he is working toward getting a NP203. In normal mode, those transfer most torque to the slipping axle! The BW1339 is eons ahead of the NP203.
I got a 79 Cherokee Chief, and I’m going to end up putting a part time kit in the case. And probably some linkage, cause that’s just a great idea you had! But how exactly does the low range unit install? I’ve heard it just splines on and bolts in and I’ve also heard there’s a snap ring for it.
there is a snap ring, you have to slide the planetary unit on the splines on gear that is directly in line with the transmission. then that gets a snap ring, then you can slide the rest of the low range unit over the planetary and bolt it on. Thanks for watching!
James Currence pretty sure i used a 5/16 yoke. It’s working out ok, it would be better if the shifter had a z bend in it so it lined up better with the t- case linkage. Also, I didn’t have enough clearance on the t-case linkage and the body, and on a hard hit the linkage hit the tunnel and that cast shift fork broke. With a few adjustments it will be great
@Days of Pain and Victory, thanks for the mention and the support! Glad our parts helped get you back up and running!!
No Problem! I'm sure I'll be buying more from you in the future! Thanks for watching!
The biggest longevity issue I have encountered is the input shaft splines. They almost all go “BANG” into reverse due to spline stop. Eventually the splines will wear to the point of skipping. The “AWD” function of the case, even with worn clutches, is superb and the trucks have surprisingly good handling and very even tire wear. I wish I could experience one with proper clutch operation, it must be insane. Also, the low range unit should be held together by a snap ring under the rear steel cover. If you wanted, there is a plug on the bottom of the case about midway between the sprockets; that is a chain-test location. With the case in neutral and the truck lifted or tires chocked, a screwdriver can be used to check the condition of chain stretch. If the screwdriver can push the chain inwards more than 1/2” from the point of contact, it is considered to be excessively worn.
the other thing I do like about this case is how tucked up it is between the frame rails. My skid plate only drops down an inch below the frame to cover the case, that's pretty dang good! that being said, the old borg warner is getting replaced this winter with a 203/205 doubler! pure beef!
Days of Pain and Victory the high-clearance nature of the chassis saved my bacon many times. I high-centered my Jeep and frame banged rocks and “Curbs” many times, but even the aluminum hi-cap transmission pan was unscathed. They took a lot of consideration when designing almost every single aspect on these Jeeps, axles, spring perches, shock mounts, steering, everything was carefully designed for maximum off-road thrashability. Honestly, the weakest link was the radiator size.
Also found you via my 1339 rebuild. Shout out to BJ's for the rebuild kit.
Bro this was super informative! I need more of this build. I wish you showed the parts where you put the BJs kit on (like a walkthrough) I would greatly help novices like myself! I plan on keeping the 1339 in my 78 Chief so and info and walkthroughs I can get on it would help! Also I would be interested to see how the lever you made to replace the vacuum line for the true 4x4 is holding up nowadays and what that linkage looks like! Would you be interested in making another for purchase? I'm sure myself and other FSJ guys on Facebook and the FSJ Forums would love to have one!
Thanks! as far as the parts, I actually only used the output seals. The gaskets for between the case halves did not fit well at all so I reused the old gaskets and some RTV. I'm planning on replacing this t-case with an NP 203/205 doubler, but have a few items that have to be finished ahead of that. First, I'm rebuild the AMC 360. then I need to rebuild the th400 with a GM output shaft so it will mate to the np 203 low range box. then get the doubler together! I've thought about making a kit for the linkage, but just not sure if the return on investment will be there. I think it would be better if it was cable operated, I might play with that idea more this summer. If I actually do something with that i'll try to remember to reach out to you! Thanks for watching!
Great video! I'm in the process of installing a part time kit in mine right now. I like the linkage idea.
thanks! when I get it installed with the shifter I'll be sure to show the final product
Just posted a video today that has a short clip of the linkage/shifter, check it out if you're interested!
@@DaysofPainandVictory I cant find the video for the shifter linkage
I've had that loud clicking in my quadratrac in a high-torque situation and i assume that's the chain skipping on the gears?
Yeah, BJs off road makes a good chain if you need to replace it
This is amazing. Trying to figure out if I have the conversion kit, the truck did come with the lock/unlock spindles.
Anyway to tell without taking apart?
If your vacuum actuator still works you can put it in park, disengage the hubs, and cycle it in and out of 4x4 using the actuator in the glove box, checking if the front driveline will spin freely by hand when the 4x4 is disengaged. Does that make sense?
@@DaysofPainandVictorythat makes sense! I will try and report back! Thanks!
Thank you for the vid. Now I better understand the 79 waggy I just bought. I think this is a misunderstood but great t-case.
No problem, thanks for watching! I believe since I made this video, BJ's off road now has their own chain for it, made in the USA, which is great since morse doesn't make them anymore. I've been running mine on 37s and wheeling pretty hard, but no lockers yet. It will be interesting to see how it holds up after I spool the rear end and get the 360 freshened up
Would you prefer quadrtrac over 4 speed with transfer
not for my application, it doesn't seem to like the 37s, pretty sure I spun the splines off the mile marker part time kit, it's making some bad noises. I do like having an automatic for wheeling though. Planning on swapping out the t-case for an NP 203/205 doubler in 2022
My 79 does the same shit. Same noise. Blew the transfer case. Had it rebuilt and it’s still making that same noise.
Yeah mine is making noise again, pretty sure I blew up the splines on the part time kit. Hopefully replacing it with an np203/205 doubler this year
@@DaysofPainandVictory the 205 seems to be better than the 203. The 203 is still chain drivers. The 205 is gear driven. I’ll do that. Thanks for the info. Hope the 205 works on the rear of my Cherokee. Since these rear ends are offset to the passenger side.
@@joecruz4846 yeah i'll just be using the low range box from the 203, mating that to the front of the 205 so i can have a 2:1 low and a 4:1 low. I've got center rear diff now with the Eaton ho72 and still running the borg warner, should still work for you. the 205 is fairly indestructible from what I understand
@@DaysofPainandVictory found a shop in Idaho that makes custom chromoly axles for these Jeep’s. In case your looking for the rears
Great video, when you lost vacuum at the actuator did you lose all movement forward and reverse? I just got a 74 J10 and it doesn't go in forward or reverse. the actuator doesn't hold vacuum but I do have vacuum on the line. Not sure how this system works yet. Thanks
if it won't go into forward or reverse it is probably either stuck in neutral at the low range box, or the limited slip friction cone is toast
@@DaysofPainandVictory Thanks, another thing, when I put it in park I heard a clicking sounds like the trans was turning. sounded like it would if you put it in park while you were still moving.
did you use a 1/4 inch or 5/16 die when you threaded the end of the e-drive actuating rod?
I used a 5/16 die
@@DaysofPainandVictory thank you
quadratrac does not use ATF unless it has a part time conversion. Get it from crown.
mike kotarba correct! Non-detergent 30 w and a limited slip additive if you’re running the stock QuadraTrac
There's a lot of theories on what will and won't work with this transfer case when it comes to traction devices. But I really don't see why selectable lockers f/r wouldn't be totally fine as long as you engaged them only when the case is locked in e-drive? If that would work, I'd be real happy. Then I'd have the excellent slick road manners of the full time case, but have the ability to go triple locked when off road. Hmmm...
Yea that would work, but I’d you ever developed a vacuum leak to the switch without knowing or the switch stopped working, the you could have an issue
Great video! I've got a 76 CJ7 with that transfer case and will be copying you. Is there anything different you would do now that it is a couple years later?
Thanks! yes there are a couple things.
1. redo the shifter so it pushes straight on the linkage. I originally thought the slight angle that my current shifter pushed on the linkage was no big deal because it doesn't take much pressure to shift it, but the angle puts the shift rod in the case in a bind.
2. Make sure i had more clearance between the transmission tunnel and the linkage on the t-case. I ended up with a broken shift fork because the t-case rotated hard and slammed the linkage against the tunnel.
3. buy new c-clips for the shift rod (had one fall off because it was loose)
4. maybe figure out how to do a cable actuated shifter.
thanks for watching! good luck!
HOW DOSE IT WORK? IM PLANING ON DOING IT
works pretty good, I'd like to change to a cable shifter to the linkage shown here
Does the part-time kit still use cones?
No it uses a splined shaft that slides inside the big gear to engage the 4x4. should be able to see it in this video
Great Video. Thanks. We have a 04 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L with Quadra-Drive all time 4x4. When turning on pavement at a slow speed (parking lot), the front tires jump while turning. We wonder if the viscous coupling (VC) in the transfer case is going bad or is something with the front diff. We replaced all the front inner axle bearings and wheel hubs. The bearings showed wear and they made noise. Any suggestions on the front wheels jumping. Definitely a 4x4 issue??? Thanks.
If it were my rig I’d swap in an np242. The np 242 gives you 2wd, full-time 4wd (for pavement), 4wd hi, and 4wd lo. It will bolt right in, just pay attention to the spline count, there were a few options. Also may need to change drive shafts, but should be able to find factory ones that are the right length
Is there a way to test the viscous coupling with the TC in the car, as it would be nice to know if this needs any attention. I have Quadra-trac on a 1998 Grand Cherokee. Thanks.
Help! We’ve got a QT with a TCase we want to swap out and I’ve got a few questions. Any way we could connect with a phone call?
send me an email with your phone number and the best time to call
Hi
Haveyou ever thought if you can turn tne transfer and use it for a lifted Jeep ?
Is it possible ?
@@n.c.j.5556 I think it would be more work than it is worth, the borg warner case has the "Texas" bolt pattern, not the circle bolt pattern so it would require a special plate and some machine work. definitely not worth it with this case. Also, how big are you wanting to go? I'm at about a 6 inch lift now with 37s, I did push the front axle forward 1.5'' and the rear 4'' which helps with drive line angles. I don't want to go any higher with suspension. I'll cut more sheet metal if i ever want 40-42'' tires
I m running 39 s but i wish i could turn it down to straight the driveline ..
Thanks for replying
You are doing a good job with the channel
Thanks for this video now i understand how these work. My 76 J10 has the 1305 without the low range.. i do have a spare 1339 with low range.
I fully rebuult this ttucks bed floors got it running.. changed all my fluids.. including the tcl1 crown fluid for the quadratrac. The fluid looked ok the magnet on the nut did have microscopic shavings on it.
Only driven 600 miles.. it drives fine on pavement.. turning etc.. but if i fully lock and turn lile say a sharp u turn and step on the gas.. and let go of my wheel so it returns to center.. the steering wheel wiggles left/right.
Like its binding. Im wondering if this crown TCL1 is really up to snuff or not. As it wasnt doing this when i first got it going but its been doing it recently.
Should I get some lsd additive and put a few oz in there and see if it helps ? I dont wanna ruin the Transfrrcase if crown tcl1 isnt working right. But i also worry adding more lsd additive will keep the 4wd from working right due to too much friction modifier.
Almost seems like i gatta add some though due to steeribg wheel wiggle i feel whwn fully turned. Add a little until that goes away if that makes sense
here's a good thread www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8493
I would check all the steering components, axle u-joints etc as well, make sure they are all good
Hey man that's a pretty Cool video... i watched it like 20 times trying to duplicate your linkage system with no luck lol. there is any way that you can sell me your system as a kit for my cj7 ??? I need one so bad and i don't wan't to deal with vacum any more thanks
Maybe this summer, don't have time to replicate it right now. I'm hoping to ditch the Borg Warner this year for an np203/205 doubler! so when that happens, this t-case and transmission will be for sale. Thanks for watching
Great video 👍🏻
Thank you!
thanks man! helped a lot
how did the mechanical linkage work out?? i got to replace my vaccum lines and i like that ideer u did there
david bradley really good! Much more reliable than the vacuum system. Working on an update video now but have been a little preoccupied with Brian’s TJ.
Just posted a video today that has a short clip of the linkage/shifter if you're interested!
@@DaysofPainandVictory Can you provide a link to the Linkage/shifter video?
@@jm-ve8ry ruclips.net/user/clipUgkxQVF6D2TQU0pq0pXMu0zRu4fGnxQvvYH5
@@DaysofPainandVictory Thx
Sorry to vehemently disagree with you. This is the best transfer case made in its day. Owners loved their Jeeps equipped with this T-case. The real secret is the viscous coupling.
yes in it's day, but it is inefficient, poor aftermarket support, It's difficult to find the good Morse chain anymore, and in a hardcore wheeling application, it is not ideal. I do like the off-set front and rear drivelines, the 2.62:1 low range, and how it is tucked up completely between the frame rails. thanks for watching!
@@DaysofPainandVictory It is still better than 90% of the T-Cases out there. As for parts I'm not sure where you are shopping but here are but a few sources:
www.bjsoffroad.com/QuadraTrac-BW1339-BW1305-Parts_c_231.html
www.morris4x4center.com/quadra-trac-transfer-case-parts-for-jeep-cj7-with-automatic-transmission.html
www.crownautomotive.net/Quadra-Trac-Parts.html
@@petemcl99 thanks for the mention! Our chains and cones at BJ's Off-Road are Made in the USA! Note that other companies chains are made in china and will stretch in short order, ours is remade here in the states to the same specs as the original Morse chain was.
@@bjsoffroad That is good to hear. That is such a good transfer case when set up properly. Most chains get stretched when people drive it in the locked mode which does not let the front-rear differentiation occur on turns. Using the wrong fluid can cause problems also just as it does in a posi-traction or track-lok axle. Most folks don't understand 4WD vehicle power flow. A Quadratrac T-case in the normal, unlocked mode actually transfers power to non-slipping axles. I have been across some very rugged terrain with Jeep vehicles so equipped including the Rubicon Trail and the performance has been outstanding. Removing it and going back to a non-differentiating T-case is a step backwards in time.
@@petemcl99 Very good point. It shocked me when he said he is working toward getting a NP203. In normal mode, those transfer most torque to the slipping axle! The BW1339 is eons ahead of the NP203.
I got a 79 Cherokee Chief, and I’m going to end up putting a part time kit in the case. And probably some linkage, cause that’s just a great idea you had! But how exactly does the low range unit install? I’ve heard it just splines on and bolts in and I’ve also heard there’s a snap ring for it.
there is a snap ring, you have to slide the planetary unit on the splines on gear that is directly in line with the transmission. then that gets a snap ring, then you can slide the rest of the low range unit over the planetary and bolt it on. Thanks for watching!
Appreciate it man, what size yoke end did you end up using for the mechanical shifter and how is it working out?
James Currence pretty sure i used a 5/16 yoke. It’s working out ok, it would be better if the shifter had a z bend in it so it lined up better with the t- case linkage. Also, I didn’t have enough clearance on the t-case linkage and the body, and on a hard hit the linkage hit the tunnel and that cast shift fork broke. With a few adjustments it will be great
Not a good idea. If you have a Quadratrac full time unit you have the best.
What year Jeep is this?
This is a 79, the Borg Warner quadratrac was available from 73-79
Warning to headphone users, SUPER loud, crappy "music" ahead.
rock on!!!
The music is kinda lame
Kill off that awfull hardrock music pls.