Hey! I built this and am loving it. I ran it for 15 minutes on a vat that had about 6 liters through it (had filtered with coffee filters, aluminum sulfate, etc before) and it was so clean afterwards that I exposed it to the sun for an hour and got zero resin precipitation in the vat. A yellow does stay behind, and some dye, but it surely gets the resin out!
Dude, you are brilliant! I love your filtration system. I was going to buy a parts washer, but this looks like a much better idea and will keep the alcohol in much better condition than a parts washer could.
This is the perfect system. I have it now set up for 4 weeks and I have printed nearly 10 litres of resin. IPA is still transparent, just a bit tinted grey as I have uses Phrozen speed and Siraya smoky black resins. Thank you Nick! You should patent this and then sell to some 3D printers manufacturer :) I cant believe such filtration systems are not yet available as resin printers accessory.
I'm interested to hear more about your commercialized version. Curious if more testing has revealed improvements. On the one hand I want to build one myself right now, but I could be persuaded to wait. : )
Keep up the great work, you've saved me hours of alcohol clean-up. I just built this tonight and it works like a charm! I make resin figures on a semi-weekly basis and have been looking for a better way to clean and reuse my IPA. The flow is just good enough to get the excess resin off my figures.
This is a great setup! Inexpensive, reasonably easy to set up, effective, doesn't rely on extra consumables like aluminum sulfate or diatomaceous earth (my preferred bulk filtration medium right now), doesn't require containers to be left in the sun, and best of all (in my opinion), it keeps the tank clean enough that you can clean in one stage rather than having multiple containers of progressively cleaner IPA. I look forward to any other improvements you might make on this in the future! One improvement I would make if I built this would be to put some kind of UV shield around the hose loop for eye safety, even if just a drawstring cloth sack. It would be very interesting to do a before/after dry weight measurement of the two different filters after significant use to see how much they are pulling in, what percent of the material each one gets, and how much they can hold before the pump hits its pressure limit. Did you use the same 360W PSU you linked in another comment for the diaphragm pump, UV LED strip, heat strip, and the peristaltic pump seen in the video?
Hey thanks!! I plan to wrap the “reactor” in kaptom tape to prevent uv getting out (but still be able to see it on). Great call. Once I see any flow issues on the return, I’ll do a weight comparison to see how much the filters caught. And yes to the 300w PSU. Since the heater band and the filter system are controlled by a dual relays on a wifi switch, neither are on for long, and don’t exceed the maximum output of the psu. The peristaltic pump is on its own line. Also fun fact: this whole system is offgrid. I built a 24v battery bank with a hybrid solar controller that runs these systems, my fridge, and charges my electric motorcycle!
@@nicks-fix Would absolutely love to see a video on the OffGrid Solar system / a parts list etc... I have wanted to build something like that for a while, but always get sort of overwhelmed when trying to come up with the particulars.
I imagine that because it's specc'd for IPA use, this would be more than capable of handling a set up with water. Thanks for posting this, I need to make one like this.
I wanted to follow up and see how the set up is holding up. I think I want to build something very similar to what you have made. What changes if any would you make in hind sight at this point?@@nicks-fix
Wanted to chime in with a few things. 1. The pump in the link is a different brand now. I didn't realize that but it seems to work! 2. I got the cheapest filter housing possible. I don't recommend this. Getting some of the dual housing or single housing x2 for around 50$ total is the better idea. 3. It full on works!!! 4. Some improvements: maybe quick release fittings for the container connection! I found that having a Y at the pump outlet with one section going to a valve and a small extra set of tubing allows me to hook up an air compressor to drain 50%+ of the IPA that say in the filter housings! This makes filter replacement super easy!
@MoonWind32690 The air compressor is a very neat idea! I have no dedicated air compressor in my small workshop though. First question: do you think that a mini air compressor for car tires would have enough power to do the job? Second question: is there a preferable mounting point for air injection between these two possible locations: A) between the pump outlet and the Ultraviolet Coil Reactor; or B) between the UVCR and the filter housing inlet?
@@fluxcapacitor Probably? I just used a airbrush compressor. Super small, very low flow and not much pressure (I think I had it at 18psi from the regulator for the airbrush as is. Location, I did it post pump right before the UV system. I didn't want to try and compress the pump. Thing to consider is you're pressurizing the system so you need to vent the air. This proves problematic as you're losing the 'head' evaporated IPA. But honestly it's still probably far more efficient than all other resin cleaning solutions. I just have a 'tap' valve that goes to a window that I put the hose out so the vapors aren't trapped in the building.
@@MoonWind32690 Thanks for this. I am quite amazed that a simple 18psi airbrush compressor can push the liquid out of the two filters in a row so easily! Makes me wonder if some cheap peristaltic pump could be enough to power the entire machine instead of the (already cheap, admittedly) small diaphragm pump. However, maybe once the filters are full of resin, the task will not be so easy.
First thanks for the information. I have built this system and really look forward to a much better washing system. I have two issues (questions). First the filter size. I see that the Amazon listing shows 0.5 microns for the carbon filters. However I do not see that confirmed on the packaging. I suspect these are 5.0 micron filters. I compared to another purchased filter that was labeled 0.5 microns, and there was a huge difference in back pressure. The validated 0.5 micron filter caused much more back pressure compared to the listed filters.... the pump struggled to push the water through... got a few leaks too. So I switched back to the listed filters. Are we sure the 0.5 micron filter is the right filtration size? My IPA is looking very mirky without the 0.5 micron filter installed. I need to decide whether its worth it to try and get it to work. I am just looking for confirmation. The other issue/question is pump flow rate. Seems to me a much slower pump would be more ideal for the UV light to have more time to solidify the resin. I think the IPA is flowing threw the UV light too fast to actually cure. Anybody have recommendations on a slower or speed controllable pump?
thanks for the tip on heating band, I'm just back to resin printing and back in the Anycubic OG Photon days I used the same relay/sensor but had no idea that heating band existed so I used a heating block and a small fan inside the enclosure, it helped my printer stay active throughout our winter in the garage
That’s great! I thought since the only thing that actually needs heat is the resin, it’s probably more effective to heat just the vat instead of the air around the vat. As an example, it’s like heating up some soup by turning you HVAC to 200, instead of just putting the soup in a pot on the range. 😃
I really like this setup! I too hate cleaning up after myself when doing resin printing. I did try out some of my own solutions, most of which definitely did not work well enough for a second attempt, but one I tried recently actually did work well enough for me to recommend it as a low cost, low effort solution. Basically, use the UV lights to cure to resin dissolved in the alcohol, so that you get a gross, cloudy suspension of microscopic resin particles. If you do nothing, and just let those particles settle, over a few weeks you'll get _most_ of them to collect at the bottom of the container, leaving you with mostly clean IPA. But I'm impatient, that takes too long, and isn't effective enough. But, good news, if you just add some sodium bentonite (aka bentonite clay, I got nearly a pound from my local grocery store for under $10, sold as a bird feed additive) suspended in solution, the bentonite will bind with the particles of resin, and make them settle out much quicker and more effectively. Is it a set-and-forget solution? No, but is it cheap and effective? Hell yeah.
Thanks so much! One note though, I recommend getting a large silicone band to stretch around your resin vat. I used a Velcro strap early on and it got a little melty. Make sure it’s silicone and not rubber! I found the ones that you can get online that are used to hold trash bags work great.
@@nicks-fix Be sure to check out the resin profiles that Rick Ferguson has worked on for the Phrozen SM4K and SM8KS printers. I know it's a different printer system but his vat warmer and profiles have made a huge difference in the quality of my prints.
Thanks for posting this Nick. Got some questions regarding your setup. (#1) After a month of using it have you noticed any reduced effectiveness of the filtered IPA? i.e. is it just as effective as new IPA? (#2) would a clear tube with UV light strips wrapped around it between filter #1 and filter #2 add any benefit? (#3) would you change anything in your setup now that you have been using it for a while, i.e. add additional filter stages, use the clear see-through filters, etc (#4) does the pump come with it's own power plug? And finally, (#5) what is that white box with the tubes on the left side of your filtration system?
#5 looks like a peristaltic pump for pumping resin into the printer as the cat gets low. A couple printers have something similar built-in to them. Pretty cool when a huge tall print is desired.
This is awesome. I was looking for a distiller to clean my ipa but this looks like a much safer way albeit slightly more expensive. I can't find the exact parts you used here in Sweden but I think I managed to find equivalents so hopefully I can get just as good results once I have it set up. Thanks for a great video.
I am considering building this using the Anycubic wash and cure station. Do you think I could attach the hoses directly to the Anycubic wash bucket and just run it through there whenever I do a wash to avoid transferring the IPA to a separate "cleaning" bucket? Also it was hard to tell from the video but are there pickup and return hoses submerged in the bucket as well?
Sorry if that wasn’t clear!! I have the hoses go through the lid of the wash bucket to keep the air interaction low and allows me to move the bucket away from the system for maintenance a lot easier. It’s best to keep both the return and suction submerged to reduce adding air into the system. I put the return slightly higher than the suction to facilitate more agitation in the wash bucket.
Nick, great video. Looks like you use your SLA printer for functional parts (versus miniatures or figurines). I'd like to see videos and how you orientate your parts on the build plate to control warping and obtain the best part-to-part fitment. I'm also interested if you have tried any of the flexible resins in your functional parts?
I love the system you've built, but based on the amount of resin I pull out of my IPA, I'd be going through new filters every couple weeks. I Currently have over 20lbs of cured goop I'm waiting to dry out outside. It's been over a month and...still goop.
Im developing a commercialized version since this seems to be something people like. Would love to talk to you about your use case. Are you on Reddit? DM me, NickPronto
Here from Hackaday, would have been cool to see the IPA circulation running. Very nice idea. Do you stir (agitate) the IPA as well, or is the pump flow enough to not worry? Would be good to track IPA usage and publish your findings as well, just as supporting.
At the end of the video you can see it running (the light is on in the reactor). It’s very quiet, which is another plus! Agitation isn’t necessary for my models, but YMMV. The pump is pushing 5gal/min and the inlet/outlet tubes are placed at different heights and different sides, so there is a pretty violent chaotic flow in there. It’s tough to see since both tubes are below the IPA line, so no air is introduced into the tubes.
Thanks so much for these awesome ideas! I'm going to order all the pump parts today - although I'll go the 120V route since I don't have a nice 12V supply. One thought - maybe a pressure gauge between the pump and the filters? That would tell you far in advance about the condition of the filters, no? I'm glad to see you used hose clamps too even though they're not on the list - I'd be worried at 50 psi that you'd blow the tubes off the barb fittings, which would be quite a mess and danger.
100% on the hose barb clamps!! They are definitely necessary. As for the pressure gauge, I think that would be cool, but maybe superfluous. The pump has a pressure cutoff relay at a set pressure. My process is to wait till the pump is cutting off due to high pressure, and then change the filters. I couldn’t find a pressure gauge that was rated to deal with alcohols, so I just left it out. If you want to add one, go for it!
@@nicks-fix My fiance is a chemist who works on mass spec machines all day, tons of solvent rated components in that. I'll pick her brain, see if there's something that won't break the bank. I'd rather replace the filters as I know they are clogging, rather than having the pump go into overload shut down. Anyway, great stuff, subscribed and looking forward to more content.
Checked with the finance - her take was - more trouble and money than it's worth. She was like "you could get a gauge off ebay, but then you'd have no idea if it's clapped out and would just cause a failure all on it's own." Her take was to just find a way to check the flow rate on the exit visually - just time how long it takes to fill a reference volume, and track that over time. Keep it simple she says. Anyway - you might want to put those hose clamps on the list, just so no one forgets them!
Wow, I wish I had found about this sooner but considering that you only put this out in mid 2023 I prolly wouldn't have heard about it in time. Considering how relatively toxic resin printing is to your health and the environment, as well as costly and time consuming, your IPA filter looks like a winner in my book at addressing those issues rather well. I would prolly still let the filters lay in the sun for a few days before disposing of them. The overall cost up front isn't cheap but it isn't prohibitive either. I am glad I didn't spend that xmas gift card on other things since it should cover the cost of the materials here. I thought the pump was going to be pretty pricey but it is quite affordable. I would love to see a 1 year, 18 month and 2 year update to get a good long idea of how well it performs long term. The only consumable would be the filters aside from the obvious IPA that would be lost due to evaporation but I would love to see the cost savings long term. Either way I would do it simply to have a single stage cleaning vat and not having to always think about how dirty my IPA is or how long it might take to let the cured resin settle after leaving it in the sun, filter, squeeze out more from the goo that forms from that process, cure in the sun some more and finally dispose.
@@nicks-fix I hope it's a successful venture for you. The one thing that turns away many people from this hobby is the cleanup and disposing of waste material. I saw videos and posts elsewhere of people using water distillers for the IPA. Gave great results but not a solution that is apartment friendly like my situation.
@@nicks-fix I'll be a day one buyer if you ship to the UK 👀This would fix such a huge pain point for printing for me, as I can't get keep up with the amount of IPA I go through and some of these parts are a bit tough to source in my country
Very clever, and good to see you took safety precautions. Only thing I could think of that might be helpful is maybe some valves to prevent any flow when changing filters if IPA stays in the tubes between cycles
Good thinking! My plan was to just put the bucket under the filter housing when I unscrew them. That way all the ipa goes back into the bucket, and then I replace the filters and just cycle.
if you've got a harbor freight near you, they sell hose clamps for automotive work, so that you can clamp off a hose and not worry about leaks when you work down the line, like on cooling systems or sometimes fuel systems depending on if they have rubber lines. vise grips would work too, but the special hose clamps are ligthweight and plastic, and shouldn't damage the hoses or pull on them much while you're taking the filters apart etc.@@nicks-fix
I would love to see how you have configured the washbucket (in terms of where you added the lines) as well as the resin drain system that I see in the back ground
Sure! Just drilled two holes in the lid for the return and suction. I did it through the lid so I could move the bucket if I needed to. The other small drain system is just a peristaltic pump, easy to find!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!! edit: Not sure if intended - The pump linked in the description, looks very similar but is a "maxzone" pump, and not the Seaflo Pump actually talked about in the video. Tried to look it up, but couldn't see if it contained the same materials, so be sure to look up the actual Series-33 Seaflo pump.
Oops! Must have been an issue with the links. I’ll update. Thanks for letting me know! Also glad you like it! Have put 5kg of resin through it, still clear as day!
Thank you for this comment. I too noticed the link didn't go to a Seaflo pump, and got concerned since it was pointed out that the pump was very specific. I looked up a Seaflo 33 though and the specifications don't seem to match what was stated in the video. The video indicates 5GPM and a 60PSI cutoff, whereas the Seaflo 33 on Amazon indicates 3.3GPM and a 45PSI cutoff
I would just wrap it in Aluminium foil. That way you get some thermal cooling of the led strip plus reflection of any uv light back to where you want it. I have been thinking about a system like this for the better part of 3 years, but never had the time, or the interns, to get this done. Had all kind of crazy ideas in, charcoal filter plus diatomaceous earth...etc. I do think that you will have to check your tubing quite regularly as uv damages plastic.
Polyvinyl tubing is uv resistant and durable and the LEDs are pressed to the tube. They are only 10w, so residual heat or lost light isn’t an issue. Also no interns here, just me and my dog, and she’s not helpful at all!
Hey, great idea. I had a quick question: is there any reason to have the pump at the start of the loop instead of after the filters? I'm thinking if the pump is at the end of the loop it'll be dealing with less potential fouling from particulate.
Great question. Diaphragm pumps are not great at suction, and much better at pressure. Since any of the large particulate is caught by a screen filter before the pump, the pump will only interact with IPA and suspended resin. This is why it is important to start with fresh IPA and cycle it frequently.
This is wonderful! Any chance you could do a close up or provide more info about how to do the wiring on the heating strips with the temp relay? For a total neophyte like myself, it's a bit of a mystery.
Hi! The temp relays have an input and output. All you need to do is wire the heating strip to the output and the input to your 12v source. Very simple! A relay is literally just a switch, like a light switch, but instead of a manual control (you flipping the switch) it is controlled by a voltage switch (the thermostat in this case.) Wiring is very simple!
@@nicks-fix Thank you! Would I use some sort of wire connectors for attaching the heating strip's wires into the temp relay or can I just insert them directly?
Saw a comment below about a potential commercial option on this, a Kickstarter? Is there a place to follow you for updates on this? I'm debating building one, upgraded with silicone tubes and some draining options. But if you're going to going commercial I'd love to see those details.
Hi Nick, thank you so much for creating this video and filtering system! I've read through a lot of the comments and it sounds like you are working on a commercial system that you may sell. If so, how far out are you from that? I'd love to purchase one, but if it is still going to be a while I'll build what you have in this video. Also, can you provide the model number of the pump? The link in the description is taking me to a smaller Maxzone pump that I doubt is rated for IPA. Thanks!
thank you so much for sharing this brilliant Tip. I have a question. Did you make holes in your wash cure bucket to pass in the tubes? If so, please what did you do exactly ? Thanks in advance.
Hey nice video there :D I have few questions such as how do you discard the filter and at what frequency ? (After a number of batches ? Kilos of resins Cleaned ?) Do you turn the system as often as possible or when it's start to get clumpy ? Do you cure the filters so you can use these a little longer ? How do you dispose of those, since it's still hasardous material until it's not cured.
How have the filters held up? I'm considering whether this is worth it for a small high-volume operation. I know they're consumable and will have to be replaced eventually but I'm wondering how many liters of resin you were able to get through before replacing the filters. It's not a cheap setup so I'm wondering where the tipping point is for it to be cheaper to just buy new methylated spirits lol. Also, any particular reason to go with a 12v pump over a 220v? Another question I have is about vinyl, I know in gloves we use nitrile because of the monomers seeping through, but is it because the rvinyl tubing is really thick that it's not an issue?
Haven’t had to replace them yet, but also my volume of printing may be less than yours. 12v for me since I’m in the US and also the LEDs and my heating band were 12v. The vinyl will definitely need to be replaced once a year or so. You could upgrade to silicone tubing and never replace.
@@nicks-fix Ah good call on the 12v led. Will have to see how I'd manage that. Thanks for the advice and glad to hear it's still running great without needing to replace anything... almost a year of printing with clean alcohol with no fuss sounds amazing! Thank you so much for making this video, think I'm just gonna go for it!
@@nicks-fix Is there anywhere I can reach out to you to have a bit more of a n in-depth chat about the system? I've just got a few things I've got questions about or that aren't entirely clear, if you don''t mind.
Wow! awesome setup! Going through the parts n pieces, for now, I'm only doing the warming piece, and I love the low price of your recommendations. I did notice though that the heating element is super long. Can it be cut? or did you just wrap it around a few times. I have an AnyCubic Photon 4, smaller than yours.
The heating element can NOT be cut. If you need a shorter one, overlapping is fine or buying smaller/shorter strips and wiring them in parallel would work fine to maintain 12v across each pad. Search for 12v heating pad and a bunch should show up that you can measure to see what works. Also be sure that your resin vat is metal or can withstand the temps! Would hate to warp your vat.
This system is interesting, and it clearly works, however sediment filters keep catching particles in themselves, that means that's a matter of time when they will loose efficiency or clog completely. For set it and forget it kind of approach, I think something like centrifugal filtration is more fitting. Cause that way its possible to set it up so all the debris will collect in one place and you will be able to just take it of, clean it and put back
Great thinking! I have experience with centrifuges and when I did a cost benefit comparison, the extreme cost of a centrifuge compared to a replacement filter was an easy decision. At this point, I’ve cycled 6kg of prints washed through the system and have clear IPA with no clogging of the filters or flow reduction. A centrifuge may make sense if you are a shop with 10+ printers running every day and a large bath. I looked into diesel centrifuges (because of their small size and cost) but wasn’t able to make one work. If you have one that you can link us to that is less than $100, I’d love to test it!
@@nicks-fix I of course agree that the approach is dependent on scale, and if you filter small volume time to time id doesn't matter that much. About diesel filters, I assume that they are not working because they are calculated for a liquid with very different viscosity. So I'd better think more towards understanding the principle and trying to make my own centrifuge. It of course could not be that simple and take a lot of time and iterations to work, so if buying a ready solution is your option, then I'd recommend to search something specificly designed to work with water-like liquids and not oil
Nice setup. I use a more KISS approach, I have a dirty IPA bath container where all the parts are sunk before going to the cleaning station. I never felt the need to change the IPA in the station, it's about 2 years old by now. It's not 100% translucent, but never failed me until today. Parts leave it squeaky clean.
How many washes do you do per week, and how much resin have you printed with your current IPA? What do you do with the ipa when it is saturated? I worry with a system like yours is that you won’t know when things aren’t working the best, as the ipa will get incrementally saturated. For me, this is following the KISS approach. Maybe our last “s” just looks different. 🤣
more of a question than a comment...if I start with fresh IPA to begin with, can I add some of my older IPA a bit at a time and get the cloudiness out of the IPA?
Hi Nick, I have been running this system now for a couple of weeks. So far it’s doing a great job cleaning the resin off of my prints. I’ve done about 3 liters or resin through it and there is still zero trace of resin in the IPA. However, I am running into an issue with my IPA getting super cloudy. I’m assuming it’s because I’m using Sunlu 14k dark grey resin, and maybe it has additives in it to print higher detail? I’ve noticed tiny white specs on my prints after I wash them, which I’m assuming is leftover pigment or something. I did some research and it looks like Prusa has made a specific cellulose membrane filter to clean up the leftover particles from the IPA that aren’t resin, so I was wondering if you have any ideas on how to filter out this extra stuff? I’ve tried a flocculant and that made my test IPA from my vat even cloudier, so I’m at a loss as to how to get rid of the extra stuff in the IPA. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Interesting! Haven’t tested all the resins, but what micron filtration are you using? It might be helpful to apply a more direct uv light directly to the vat while cycling? Let me know!
@@nicks-fix I have the 5 Micron filter and the .5 Micron filter you have linked in the description. I’ve seen folks mention carbon filters, but I don’t know what is any different than the .5 micron filter you’ve already linked. Other than that I’ve tried setting it out in the sun, UV curing it with another lamp, etc, but there isn’t any resin cured after doing those things. The reactor coil seems to catch the actual resin, just not whatever the cloudy stuff is. I’m open to adding another filter or even replacing the ones I have now with different ones. Maybe I need an even finer micron filter with the 14k resin?
@@nicks-fix Mystery solved! You were right, it was a UV light curing issue. Even though I took out some of the IPA and let it sit in the sun to cure, it must have been just enough off the top of the IPA to not have much resin in it. So it made me think there was no resin in the IPA. I decided to go all out and set all of the IPA in the sun, and sure enough, almost solid white. So that meant my UV light wasn't curing anything at all. So I ran it through my system again and it appears that my UV light I used to replace my insufficient UV LED's wasn't actually hitting the coil, it was focused almost dead center of them, so it wasn't getting the UV light to expose the resin in the IPA. I've got a new set of UV LED's so I'll get that fixed soon, but now the IPA is crystal clear again. Lesson learned part 2.
Nick! Excellent rig you have created. Thank you for sharing this with the resin 3d printing community. Can you show us a video or photos of where the fittings are connected to the bucket? Thank you.
Hey thanks! In the parts list I used the bulkhead fittings on the lid of the wash bucket. I thought that was best so i could remove the whole bucket without having to disassemble the system.
The yellowing of the ipa would concern me slightly if im using clear resin. I wonder if adding a carbon reactor at the end of the filtering to clear that up
I didn't catch your method of cleaning. Are the parts just static in the tub and the high flow rate does the job? My method for some time is to use a garden sprayer. I leave the parts on the build plate and squirt the parts with reasonable pressure. Inside a large tub of course. I find the mechanical force speeds up the dissolving of the remaining resin. It is a bit messy though. The pressure can't be too high of course. Not just for mess but it can blow the parts off the plate which is a nuisance because I post-cure on the plate as well. For recycling the resin I just let gravity do the job. The fact that alcohol is less dense than resins is very handy. Overnight is generally long enough for the resin to settle. I then just decant the alcohol till I see resin particles at the lip. The remainder goes into another container with the previously settled mixture for further settling. It works but is a bit messy. It would seem your system greatly reduces mess. As to the heating, I have just purchased Chitu System's heater. Cheap and works a treat. I'm going to get more for my other machines. Your system is the best I have seen. Thanks for sharing. One question. How long do the filters last?
What about the resin building up on the inside of the tubing? I use a plate stirring unit, a glass beaker and a uv light. The side of the beaker gets covered with resin after just a few minutes of running the system. I then just use a filter cone to get rid of the cured resin. Plus I also have to clean the resin off the inside of the beaker using a paper towel and then some alcohol wipes.
@@Core-vu6mc since the alcohol is constantly moving over the tubing and pump internals, and the system should be run very frequently after each wash, there is minimal build up, if at all.
Hi Nick, Just curious what you’ve calculated for total uv cure time in the loop to be? I ask because I have an old reverse osmosis uv sterlizer that is 254 nm with an exposure output of 17.7 uW/cm2 @ 6w input. From what I can find it seems that most resins are reactive in the 200-400 nm range though with less penetration at the lower ranges. Could be nice to use an off the shelf solution for the uv section. Also I’m not sure I saw what micron you were filtering to, could you share? Any time I’ve run RO filtration I’ve always tried to run only has small as necessary to improve efficiency. Great video and setup by the way!
Hi! The uv lights output the uv range similar to my resin, in the 400’s. I found those pretty easily on Amazon and matched them to my resin exposure. I haven’t calculated the exposure time of the loop but it’s 5ft long and has 20w of uv light blasting it. The flow rate is moving it pretty quick through there, but since resin in my printer exposes layers at half a second, I imagine it’s pretty close. More loops, slower pumps, larger tubing and more lights will all increase exposure time/amount if you’re trying to dial things in. The filters are 5 micron to .5micron. I typically run the system for 15-30 minutes on a timer after I’m done, so that would be 60+ cycles
Found this via your reddit post. You had what looked to be a pool UV filter before in the array. Was that not doing a sufficient job? Also as it's 9 months in, how often are you printing and have you had to change the filters yet?
@nicks-fix I love this setup and am working toward building my own, but I have a question for you. The pump that you're using specifically states not to use with flammable liquids. Have you noticed any issues with the pump? Have you considered upgrading to a fuel pump instead? Thanks
This is really nice and I would not be afraid about the components having problem with IPA. I rather wonder how the PVC tubes will perform after a couple of months. Usually PVC is not UV resistant, why outdoors it is either put into the ground or coated with some paint for UV protection. In this case you cannot do that, since the UV should go through the PVC tube, so it should get brittle over time. Maybe it takes years, but maybe only a few months, I dunno since the UV source is right in front of it. Replacing with silicone tube might be smart after they start becoming harder and harder. Same goes for the fittings, but those can be easily shielded from the uv.
Correct, but under limited pressure I believe I’ll get a ton of life out of these before needing to replace. This may be a more suitable option! amzn.to/47gXuMt
how low does the temperature go during winters...where i stay it goes down to -20C at night which is when i do most of my prints... I use a small heater and keep my printer in an enclosure but i dont have a thermostat to keep the temp consistent... you method seems much better... Just wanted to know if temp drops in your area is as drastic as mine...if so would love to see the whole set up process
I’m in northern Oregon, and it gets pretty chilly in my garage. Only had the system going in the warmer months, but will test over the winter!! I think since I’m warming the aluminum vat with the resin in it, and the temp probe sits in the resin, the temperature control will be much more accurate and efficient. If you only warm the air, there are lots of losses and wasted energy.
@@nicks-fix correct...could you send an Amazon link to the heating belt and other things required in your setup and again if you could do a set up video it would be immensely helpful ✌️
This is amazing. I'm running 20-30 build plates and consuming maybe 5 kg of resin per day. Do you think this system could keep up? (Currently I'm cleaning IPA using a distiller - it feels like a matter of time before a disaster 💥.) Also, do you find resin attaching to the tubing in the UV reactor?
This would work great for that. You may find it better to go with larger filter housings and just keep the system cycling all the time. There is no build up in the tubes at all. If they ever do, you can just replace the cheap hosing with new! With this pump and the amount of IPA, each minute is 2 complete cycles of the volume of the system. I typically run it for 30 minutes after each wash just to be overkill, but this would be great in your situation.
Have you found the ipa still comes out cloudy? I still think its cleaned for sure. Maybe i need smaller micron filters, two 5 microns arent seeming to separate whatever cured resin is clouding mine
I've been running a similar system, smaller with fish tank pumps so the propeller is completely isolated. I wanted more flow and this video came into my attention. I went to check the pump you included in the video description but the back label states "Do not pump flammable liquids", same for the one of the brand Seaflo. Is yours a specific model for flammable liquids?
Hmm I would recommend replacing your curing loop with another reservoir and adding the leds to the main container with the 3d printed part. With proper programming of the pump/necessary additional valves you could make an automated wash and cure station (with self cleaning ipa)
I worry then the second reservoir will collect cured resin. The reason the tubes work is because it’s actively moving through at a high flow rate. In addition, a second reservoir has no purpose other than more ipa? What is the point of a secondary reservoir? Also, why add valves? Seems like extra work with little value?
Assuming it does not clog up your inlet/outlet of the second reservoir, I would argue it's a good thing to collect cured resin there. It'll increase your filter life a little and you only need clean ipa in the first reservoir anyways. Regardless, your setup is awesome as it is and I'm definitely going to build something very similar in the near future. Cheers! Oh you added a bit while I was writing my reply. My thought with the second reservoir was to hold ipa while the LEDs in the main container cured the part. After a bit more thought, that might not be necessary since you're showing in your setup that uv will penetrate ipa without much issue (albeit at a smaller distance through your tubing) I haven't thought out all the valves yet but I imagined something automated which pumps out ipa from the main chamber would need some valves
Your system looks nice. I would cover the loop though because UV is not good for your eyes. Printing a plastic cover for the loop might be a good idea.
Mate you need to market this, I'd happily pay for it to avoid work, but a lot of other people might not be confident in making it themselves aswell and buying a ready made system would be their only solution
Hi Nick, really close to putting this together now. Got all the parts in but I'm a frustrated as I went with PTFE tubing for the curing loop (Eric Strebel is using fep, but couldnt find that for a reaosnable pricve) but the tubing is not cooperating with being shaped at all. Wondering if silicone would do the trick for that as well or if that would mess with the UV permeability? Also, how have you got your connections to the cleaning tank set up?
Atm almost done building a filter set like the vid. Some l leaks in the water test so almost done. Had to get some fittings but it seems to hold on the board so here's going it holds when in service.
Follow up. System leaks contained and running a 30 minute stress test. Had to put some old ipa with resin in to top it off but I'm not on fire and we don't have any noted leaks. Looks like it works more or less as intended
Don't press the vacuum release on the filters it gets liquid everywhere. TLDR bubbling right after the pump but no liquid leaks so trying to determine where air is coming in.
Ok, New longer tubing and swapping the 5micron filter. Wow it's working. Still have air issue but no leaks. The first filter really took the nasty resin water hard but the new one is following up. Can see the bottom bars of the hand rack when it was solid grey "water" at the start of this madness
Can you post a how to video walking us through setup? Or is it relatively simple once the materials ship in? Thank you very much for your content, easily the most effective and low maintenance setup I’ve seen!
It’s pretty self explanatory once you have the components, just make sure the order is the same as the video! Material list is in the description! Thanks for the compliment, let me know how yours works out!
@@nicks-fixThis process was anything but self explanatory. The plumbing itself was fine even though I still have leaks that escape me even with traditional sealing methods and the electrical does not work as intended. I ended up having to buy extra supplies that were not on the list as well; had I known of these issues beforehand I would’ve elected a simpler and cheaper method of ipa filtering
I Really like this idea and am planning my own. Have you had any issue with the vinyl tubing in the uv section? I know that vinyl isn't very uv resistant. I wanted to use FEP tubing, but it is so expensive.
@@JamesDayton-u2u the Uv loop can get hardened after a while, but once it’s that way, it’s low cost to replace! That being said, no fragility here after a year.
Very nice ideas! Thanks for that! When i am running the heatband with 12V and it has 150W, do i need a acdc adapter with 12,5A? Or did i a mistake? Could u maybe list the full setup how u are running your heatband with thermoelement?
This is very interesting, can we see this in action please, I'd love to hear an update video on how this has perfromed since this videos release, or perhaps a "6 months later" along with any mishaps, upgrades or in hindsight thoughts.
I agree with that assessment. In addition, the motors that run the pumps are brushed motors. This means an electric brush is riding along the commutator to energize and move the motor shaft. With brushed motors, you have micro sparks where there is an air gap between the brush and commutator. Look inside at an old wired drill with the lights off. You’ll see them. In this situation, the IPA is in a closed loop, and the motor is placed at the highest point in the system away from any drips or evaporation. Since the diaphragm is the only part in contact with the IPA, there is no risk of motor spark inside the pump. The only risk is flammable liquids evaporating and igniting in the air due to a small spark from anything. This is why I have the entire system as a closed loop. The bucket and tubing doesn’t allow any amount of IPA to evaporate.
Great question. The return tube goes down to the bottom of the wash tank, and the suction is at the top. When there is a little air, I can see the bubbles hitting all corners of the bucket, so there aren’t any dead areas.
Not sure, if you could use standard aquarium uv algae treatment lights/filters, instead of the custom coiled tubing, with LED strips? Also what about yellow magic with heated ultrasonic cleaner and continuous recovery of the solvent after uv treatment? IPA might degrade final strength of parts, if the bath/cleaning times are not carefully controlled. Just some 💭♥️👍
Totally! I looked into those and worried that the housings/materials weren’t rated for alcohol. What’s yellow magic? At this point, given the pumps GPM, the tank of IPA cycles 2.5 times per minute. I think anything over that is diminishing returns. Everything the IPA touches in this system is rated for extended alcohol resistance, so part degradation is of little concern.
@@nicks-fix Thanks for the clarification, The system could vey well work for Yellow Magic(an industrial solvent). Wish someone could decipher the ingredients to make it less expensive. It's an alternative to a no IPA cleaning process(popularized in formlabs forums). But needs a heated ultrasonic cleaner, with a very breif IPA post-cleaning(or extended soaktime over several hours, helps eliminate thin layer of residual coating). The advantage being complete lack of IPA, coupled with close to 100% reuse(when a simple uv exposure precipitates cured resin out).
I built this with the exact parts list and it ran great for several weeks. There was no sediment after washing several liters of parts though the IPA slowly darkened to the point that was difficult to see the bottom of the tub. Then the pump started to leak, slowly at first but became much worse over time. I t would suck air into the system when running and dribble IPA when shut off. I disassembled it and couldn’t find the problem so I reassembled it with silicone grease hoping it would fix the problem if only for a short time. However it was just as bad as previously. The only difference between the setup here and mine is that I mounted the pump upside down from the way he has it. Does anyone else have experience with running this setup for four or more months? Have you had any of these issues?
@@MrLightmass the specifics depend on the range that your resin needs. Nm wavelength is never exact, so getting it as close to your resin from the manufacturer sheet is the best way to pair it.
@@nicks-fix Thanks for the reply! So the LED's you have listed are working for you? I am ordering my parts today to give this a go. Are the parts listed in the description the same ones you used in you project? Thanks!
Hey man, really smart setup you got there. I was planning on making something similar, and was wondering if I could get the link for the pump and filters. Cheers.
I just ordered everything to build this filtration system. A question regarding the tubing. Is the pickup line ran all the way to the bottom of the cleaning bucket? Thanks
new info: the pumps have a safe run time, we found them listed about 5 minutes, 10 minutes cooldown. after running for an hour one day the pump started leaking. gaskets or something failed inside, and was a mess and needed a full replacement short of opening the pump. went a good year before it failed from that. Still working good though.
@@Frostyviewer yeah I would never leave this running for more than a few minutes, and never unattended. If you take the lpm or gpm of the pump and compare that to the volume of the wash basin, even a minute or two will give you 200% cycle of the entire volume.
Where is the runtime listed? I’ve never run it for an hour straight but may have gone over the 5 minute limit. It certainly sounds like the reason for both my pump failures.
Hey! I built this and am loving it. I ran it for 15 minutes on a vat that had about 6 liters through it (had filtered with coffee filters, aluminum sulfate, etc before) and it was so clean afterwards that I exposed it to the sun for an hour and got zero resin precipitation in the vat. A yellow does stay behind, and some dye, but it surely gets the resin out!
Glad you’re liking it!!! So excited to hear other people’s experiences!
Could you use a carbon filter to remove the color.
@@1h8turkeys I think the two filters he suggested were both fabric. I'll look into swapping one for a carbon filter and report back.
@@arthurbrazzle6854Have you had any success with the carbon filter? Which one did you get?
Did u use the led straps linked in the description cause I bought them.only to realize they aren't even uv lights so they don't cure anything
Dude, you are brilliant! I love your filtration system. I was going to buy a parts washer, but this looks like a much better idea and will keep the alcohol in much better condition than a parts washer could.
Glad you like it! Let me know how it works out!
This is the perfect system. I have it now set up for 4 weeks and I have printed nearly 10 litres of resin. IPA is still transparent, just a bit tinted grey as I have uses Phrozen speed and Siraya smoky black resins.
Thank you Nick!
You should patent this and then sell to some 3D printers manufacturer :)
I cant believe such filtration systems are not yet available as resin printers accessory.
This guy is a genius, he built two systems that make much more sense then any system big brands make
@@thomascarvalho7309 thanks so much!!
I’ve been banging my head against this type of design for a few weeks, very impressed with what you did here, I’m going to copy it.
I'm interested to hear more about your commercialized version. Curious if more testing has revealed improvements. On the one hand I want to build one myself right now, but I could be persuaded to wait. : )
It will be a month or two before we launch the kickstarter
@@nicks-fix very exciting :)
What kind of volume would your commercial version use? Similar to this or are you planning to have a larger volume?
@@nicks-fix Any update on the launch? Do you have a link yet to the pre-launch site?
Keep up the great work, you've saved me hours of alcohol clean-up. I just built this tonight and it works like a charm! I make resin figures on a semi-weekly basis and have been looking for a better way to clean and reuse my IPA. The flow is just good enough to get the excess resin off my figures.
So glad to hear it!
The reactor coil is truly ingenious. Outstanding.
Thanks!
This is a great setup! Inexpensive, reasonably easy to set up, effective, doesn't rely on extra consumables like aluminum sulfate or diatomaceous earth (my preferred bulk filtration medium right now), doesn't require containers to be left in the sun, and best of all (in my opinion), it keeps the tank clean enough that you can clean in one stage rather than having multiple containers of progressively cleaner IPA. I look forward to any other improvements you might make on this in the future!
One improvement I would make if I built this would be to put some kind of UV shield around the hose loop for eye safety, even if just a drawstring cloth sack. It would be very interesting to do a before/after dry weight measurement of the two different filters after significant use to see how much they are pulling in, what percent of the material each one gets, and how much they can hold before the pump hits its pressure limit.
Did you use the same 360W PSU you linked in another comment for the diaphragm pump, UV LED strip, heat strip, and the peristaltic pump seen in the video?
Hey thanks!!
I plan to wrap the “reactor” in kaptom tape to prevent uv getting out (but still be able to see it on). Great call.
Once I see any flow issues on the return, I’ll do a weight comparison to see how much the filters caught.
And yes to the 300w PSU. Since the heater band and the filter system are controlled by a dual relays on a wifi switch, neither are on for long, and don’t exceed the maximum output of the psu.
The peristaltic pump is on its own line.
Also fun fact: this whole system is offgrid. I built a 24v battery bank with a hybrid solar controller that runs these systems, my fridge, and charges my electric motorcycle!
@@nicks-fix Would absolutely love to see a video on the OffGrid Solar system / a parts list etc... I have wanted to build something like that for a while, but always get sort of overwhelmed when trying to come up with the particulars.
I imagine that because it's specc'd for IPA use, this would be more than capable of handling a set up with water. Thanks for posting this, I need to make one like this.
Kid you are BRILLIANT! I’m going to build this over the next month.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!!
I just finished my build. Running it for the first time as I type so far so good. Thx again for sharing
Dude, that is most excellent. Thanks for sharing!
You bet! Glad you like it!!
I wanted to follow up and see how the set up is holding up. I think I want to build something very similar to what you have made. What changes if any would you make in hind sight at this point?@@nicks-fix
I've been running one of these for a few months now... my only regret is that I didn't make one sooner!
Wanted to chime in with a few things.
1. The pump in the link is a different brand now. I didn't realize that but it seems to work!
2. I got the cheapest filter housing possible. I don't recommend this. Getting some of the dual housing or single housing x2 for around 50$ total is the better idea.
3. It full on works!!!
4. Some improvements: maybe quick release fittings for the container connection! I found that having a Y at the pump outlet with one section going to a valve and a small extra set of tubing allows me to hook up an air compressor to drain 50%+ of the IPA that say in the filter housings! This makes filter replacement super easy!
Great points! Thank you!!!
@MoonWind32690 The air compressor is a very neat idea! I have no dedicated air compressor in my small workshop though. First question: do you think that a mini air compressor for car tires would have enough power to do the job? Second question: is there a preferable mounting point for air injection between these two possible locations: A) between the pump outlet and the Ultraviolet Coil Reactor; or B) between the UVCR and the filter housing inlet?
@@fluxcapacitor Probably? I just used a airbrush compressor. Super small, very low flow and not much pressure (I think I had it at 18psi from the regulator for the airbrush as is.
Location, I did it post pump right before the UV system. I didn't want to try and compress the pump.
Thing to consider is you're pressurizing the system so you need to vent the air. This proves problematic as you're losing the 'head' evaporated IPA. But honestly it's still probably far more efficient than all other resin cleaning solutions.
I just have a 'tap' valve that goes to a window that I put the hose out so the vapors aren't trapped in the building.
@@MoonWind32690 Thanks for this. I am quite amazed that a simple 18psi airbrush compressor can push the liquid out of the two filters in a row so easily! Makes me wonder if some cheap peristaltic pump could be enough to power the entire machine instead of the (already cheap, admittedly) small diaphragm pump. However, maybe once the filters are full of resin, the task will not be so easy.
First thanks for the information. I have built this system and really look forward to a much better washing system.
I have two issues (questions). First the filter size. I see that the Amazon listing shows 0.5 microns for the carbon filters. However I do not see that confirmed on the packaging. I suspect these are 5.0 micron filters. I compared to another purchased filter that was labeled 0.5 microns, and there was a huge difference in back pressure. The validated 0.5 micron filter caused much more back pressure compared to the listed filters.... the pump struggled to push the water through... got a few leaks too. So I switched back to the listed filters.
Are we sure the 0.5 micron filter is the right filtration size? My IPA is looking very mirky without the 0.5 micron filter installed. I need to decide whether its worth it to try and get it to work. I am just looking for confirmation.
The other issue/question is pump flow rate. Seems to me a much slower pump would be more ideal for the UV light to have more time to solidify the resin. I think the IPA is flowing threw the UV light too fast to actually cure. Anybody have recommendations on a slower or speed controllable pump?
thanks for the tip on heating band, I'm just back to resin printing and back in the Anycubic OG Photon days I used the same relay/sensor but had no idea that heating band existed so I used a heating block and a small fan inside the enclosure, it helped my printer stay active throughout our winter in the garage
That’s great! I thought since the only thing that actually needs heat is the resin, it’s probably more effective to heat just the vat instead of the air around the vat.
As an example, it’s like heating up some soup by turning you HVAC to 200, instead of just putting the soup in a pot on the range. 😃
I will be assembling my filtration system tonight!
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!!!
I really like this setup! I too hate cleaning up after myself when doing resin printing. I did try out some of my own solutions, most of which definitely did not work well enough for a second attempt, but one I tried recently actually did work well enough for me to recommend it as a low cost, low effort solution. Basically, use the UV lights to cure to resin dissolved in the alcohol, so that you get a gross, cloudy suspension of microscopic resin particles. If you do nothing, and just let those particles settle, over a few weeks you'll get _most_ of them to collect at the bottom of the container, leaving you with mostly clean IPA.
But I'm impatient, that takes too long, and isn't effective enough. But, good news, if you just add some sodium bentonite (aka bentonite clay, I got nearly a pound from my local grocery store for under $10, sold as a bird feed additive) suspended in solution, the bentonite will bind with the particles of resin, and make them settle out much quicker and more effectively. Is it a set-and-forget solution? No, but is it cheap and effective? Hell yeah.
Great! Love that there are so many solutions to this problem. I’m glad yours works for you!!
The heating mantle is brilliant!
Thanks so much! One note though, I recommend getting a large silicone band to stretch around your resin vat. I used a Velcro strap early on and it got a little melty.
Make sure it’s silicone and not rubber! I found the ones that you can get online that are used to hold trash bags work great.
@@nicks-fix Be sure to check out the resin profiles that Rick Ferguson has worked on for the Phrozen SM4K and SM8KS printers. I know it's a different printer system but his vat warmer and profiles have made a huge difference in the quality of my prints.
Thanks for posting this Nick. Got some questions regarding your setup. (#1) After a month of using it have you noticed any reduced effectiveness of the filtered IPA?
i.e. is it just as effective as new IPA? (#2) would a clear tube with UV light strips wrapped around it between filter #1 and filter #2 add any benefit? (#3) would you change anything in your setup now that you have been using it for a while, i.e. add additional filter stages, use the clear see-through filters, etc (#4) does the pump come with it's own power plug? And finally, (#5) what is that white box with the tubes on the left side of your filtration system?
#5 looks like a peristaltic pump for pumping resin into the printer as the cat gets low. A couple printers have something similar built-in to them. Pretty cool when a huge tall print is desired.
Well thought out video. The filter process makes sense. Thanks for sharing.
I’ll keep updating this, but I’m at 5kg of resin printed through this and the ipa is still clean. No filter changes yet!
This is awesome. I was looking for a distiller to clean my ipa but this looks like a much safer way albeit slightly more expensive. I can't find the exact parts you used here in Sweden but I think I managed to find equivalents so hopefully I can get just as good results once I have it set up. Thanks for a great video.
You bet!! Just be sure to check chemical resistance of any part that comes in contact with the IPA
We need more videos from you--great stuff!!
Next one is up this week: a simple ozone generator/infuser so you never have to use laundry detergent again.
I am considering building this using the Anycubic wash and cure station. Do you think I could attach the hoses directly to the Anycubic wash bucket and just run it through there whenever I do a wash to avoid transferring the IPA to a separate "cleaning" bucket? Also it was hard to tell from the video but are there pickup and return hoses submerged in the bucket as well?
Sorry if that wasn’t clear!!
I have the hoses go through the lid of the wash bucket to keep the air interaction low and allows me to move the bucket away from the system for maintenance a lot easier.
It’s best to keep both the return and suction submerged to reduce adding air into the system. I put the return slightly higher than the suction to facilitate more agitation in the wash bucket.
This is so cool! Must have projects for SLA printers!
I really need to build this!!! Thank you so much!
Nick, great video. Looks like you use your SLA printer for functional parts (versus miniatures or figurines). I'd like to see videos and how you orientate your parts on the build plate to control warping and obtain the best part-to-part fitment. I'm also interested if you have tried any of the flexible resins in your functional parts?
I typically just find the flattest part and align that with the build plate, to reduce the need for supports.
No flexible resins yet but one day!
This is exactly what I was looking for!
Glad you found it! Let me know if you have any questions! Lots of good ones in the comments.
I love the system you've built, but based on the amount of resin I pull out of my IPA, I'd be going through new filters every couple weeks. I Currently have over 20lbs of cured goop I'm waiting to dry out outside. It's been over a month and...still goop.
Im developing a commercialized version since this seems to be something people like. Would love to talk to you about your use case. Are you on Reddit? DM me, NickPronto
This is awesome! We need more videos from you!!!
Working on one now!!
Beautiful. Awesome setup. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for saying that!!
Here from Hackaday, would have been cool to see the IPA circulation running. Very nice idea. Do you stir (agitate) the IPA as well, or is the pump flow enough to not worry?
Would be good to track IPA usage and publish your findings as well, just as supporting.
At the end of the video you can see it running (the light is on in the reactor). It’s very quiet, which is another plus!
Agitation isn’t necessary for my models, but YMMV. The pump is pushing 5gal/min and the inlet/outlet tubes are placed at different heights and different sides, so there is a pretty violent chaotic flow in there.
It’s tough to see since both tubes are below the IPA line, so no air is introduced into the tubes.
@@nicks-fix damn that is really quiet.
Another plus point.
Amazing! Thanks for sharing your brilliant cleaning system!
Glad you like it!! Let me know if you end up making one!!!
Wow this is awesome! Keep making videos Nick! subbed.
Thanks so much for these awesome ideas! I'm going to order all the pump parts today - although I'll go the 120V route since I don't have a nice 12V supply. One thought - maybe a pressure gauge between the pump and the filters? That would tell you far in advance about the condition of the filters, no? I'm glad to see you used hose clamps too even though they're not on the list - I'd be worried at 50 psi that you'd blow the tubes off the barb fittings, which would be quite a mess and danger.
100% on the hose barb clamps!! They are definitely necessary.
As for the pressure gauge, I think that would be cool, but maybe superfluous. The pump has a pressure cutoff relay at a set pressure. My process is to wait till the pump is cutting off due to high pressure, and then change the filters.
I couldn’t find a pressure gauge that was rated to deal with alcohols, so I just left it out. If you want to add one, go for it!
@@nicks-fix My fiance is a chemist who works on mass spec machines all day, tons of solvent rated components in that. I'll pick her brain, see if there's something that won't break the bank. I'd rather replace the filters as I know they are clogging, rather than having the pump go into overload shut down. Anyway, great stuff, subscribed and looking forward to more content.
Checked with the finance - her take was - more trouble and money than it's worth. She was like "you could get a gauge off ebay, but then you'd have no idea if it's clapped out and would just cause a failure all on it's own." Her take was to just find a way to check the flow rate on the exit visually - just time how long it takes to fill a reference volume, and track that over time. Keep it simple she says. Anyway - you might want to put those hose clamps on the list, just so no one forgets them!
Wow, I wish I had found about this sooner but considering that you only put this out in mid 2023 I prolly wouldn't have heard about it in time. Considering how relatively toxic resin printing is to your health and the environment, as well as costly and time consuming, your IPA filter looks like a winner in my book at addressing those issues rather well. I would prolly still let the filters lay in the sun for a few days before disposing of them.
The overall cost up front isn't cheap but it isn't prohibitive either. I am glad I didn't spend that xmas gift card on other things since it should cover the cost of the materials here. I thought the pump was going to be pretty pricey but it is quite affordable.
I would love to see a 1 year, 18 month and 2 year update to get a good long idea of how well it performs long term. The only consumable would be the filters aside from the obvious IPA that would be lost due to evaporation but I would love to see the cost savings long term. Either way I would do it simply to have a single stage cleaning vat and not having to always think about how dirty my IPA is or how long it might take to let the cured resin settle after leaving it in the sun, filter, squeeze out more from the goo that forms from that process, cure in the sun some more and finally dispose.
Great ideas. I’m working on commercializing a much simpler and less expensive unit for sale in the near future.
@@nicks-fix I hope it's a successful venture for you. The one thing that turns away many people from this hobby is the cleanup and disposing of waste material. I saw videos and posts elsewhere of people using water distillers for the IPA. Gave great results but not a solution that is apartment friendly like my situation.
@@nicks-fix I'll be a day one buyer if you ship to the UK 👀This would fix such a huge pain point for printing for me, as I can't get keep up with the amount of IPA I go through and some of these parts are a bit tough to source in my country
Very clever, and good to see you took safety precautions. Only thing I could think of that might be helpful is maybe some valves to prevent any flow when changing filters if IPA stays in the tubes between cycles
Good thinking! My plan was to just put the bucket under the filter housing when I unscrew them. That way all the ipa goes back into the bucket, and then I replace the filters and just cycle.
if you've got a harbor freight near you, they sell hose clamps for automotive work, so that you can clamp off a hose and not worry about leaks when you work down the line, like on cooling systems or sometimes fuel systems depending on if they have rubber lines. vise grips would work too, but the special hose clamps are ligthweight and plastic, and shouldn't damage the hoses or pull on them much while you're taking the filters apart etc.@@nicks-fix
Really inspiring projects - something I would love to tinker with - great video thanks.
Awesome! Glad to have inspired you!
Great design! Thanks for sharing.
I would love to see how you have configured the washbucket (in terms of where you added the lines) as well as the resin drain system that I see in the back ground
Sure! Just drilled two holes in the lid for the return and suction. I did it through the lid so I could move the bucket if I needed to.
The other small drain system is just a peristaltic pump, easy to find!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!! edit: Not sure if intended - The pump linked in the description, looks very similar but is a "maxzone" pump, and not the Seaflo Pump actually talked about in the video. Tried to look it up, but couldn't see if it contained the same materials, so be sure to look up the actual Series-33 Seaflo pump.
Oops! Must have been an issue with the links. I’ll update. Thanks for letting me know!
Also glad you like it! Have put 5kg of resin through it, still clear as day!
Thank you for this comment. I too noticed the link didn't go to a Seaflo pump, and got concerned since it was pointed out that the pump was very specific. I looked up a Seaflo 33 though and the specifications don't seem to match what was stated in the video. The video indicates 5GPM and a 60PSI cutoff, whereas the Seaflo 33 on Amazon indicates 3.3GPM and a 45PSI cutoff
I would just wrap it in Aluminium foil. That way you get some thermal cooling of the led strip plus reflection of any uv light back to where you want it.
I have been thinking about a system like this for the better part of 3 years, but never had the time, or the interns, to get this done.
Had all kind of crazy ideas in, charcoal filter plus diatomaceous earth...etc.
I do think that you will have to check your tubing quite regularly as uv damages plastic.
Polyvinyl tubing is uv resistant and durable and the LEDs are pressed to the tube. They are only 10w, so residual heat or lost light isn’t an issue.
Also no interns here, just me and my dog, and she’s not helpful at all!
Any reason not to use the 115V pump?@@nicks-fix
Hey, great idea. I had a quick question: is there any reason to have the pump at the start of the loop instead of after the filters? I'm thinking if the pump is at the end of the loop it'll be dealing with less potential fouling from particulate.
Great question.
Diaphragm pumps are not great at suction, and much better at pressure. Since any of the large particulate is caught by a screen filter before the pump, the pump will only interact with IPA and suspended resin. This is why it is important to start with fresh IPA and cycle it frequently.
@@nicks-fix ohhh thank you that makes sense.
This is wonderful! Any chance you could do a close up or provide more info about how to do the wiring on the heating strips with the temp relay? For a total neophyte like myself, it's a bit of a mystery.
Hi! The temp relays have an input and output. All you need to do is wire the heating strip to the output and the input to your 12v source. Very simple!
A relay is literally just a switch, like a light switch, but instead of a manual control (you flipping the switch) it is controlled by a voltage switch (the thermostat in this case.)
Wiring is very simple!
@@nicks-fix Thank you! Would I use some sort of wire connectors for attaching the heating strip's wires into the temp relay or can I just insert them directly?
Fantastic setup! Thanks for the brain food!
Saw a comment below about a potential commercial option on this, a Kickstarter?
Is there a place to follow you for updates on this?
I'm debating building one, upgraded with silicone tubes and some draining options.
But if you're going to going commercial I'd love to see those details.
I’m working on it but had to pause it for my main startup. I’d recommend building for now, the commercial version/kickstarter will take some time.
Great idea! How often do you clean the filters?
Well done 👍
Hi Nick, thank you so much for creating this video and filtering system! I've read through a lot of the comments and it sounds like you are working on a commercial system that you may sell. If so, how far out are you from that? I'd love to purchase one, but if it is still going to be a while I'll build what you have in this video. Also, can you provide the model number of the pump? The link in the description is taking me to a smaller Maxzone pump that I doubt is rated for IPA. Thanks!
thank you so much for sharing this brilliant Tip. I have a question. Did you make holes in your wash cure bucket to pass in the tubes? If so, please what did you do exactly ? Thanks in advance.
Hey nice video there :D I have few questions such as how do you discard the filter and at what frequency ? (After a number of batches ? Kilos of resins Cleaned ?) Do you turn the system as often as possible or when it's start to get clumpy ?
Do you cure the filters so you can use these a little longer ? How do you dispose of those, since it's still hasardous material until it's not cured.
I don't even have a 3d printer and I found this super interersting!
Thanks so much!
Great job. This is over the top.
Thanks so much!
How have the filters held up? I'm considering whether this is worth it for a small high-volume operation. I know they're consumable and will have to be replaced eventually but I'm wondering how many liters of resin you were able to get through before replacing the filters. It's not a cheap setup so I'm wondering where the tipping point is for it to be cheaper to just buy new methylated spirits lol.
Also, any particular reason to go with a 12v pump over a 220v?
Another question I have is about vinyl, I know in gloves we use nitrile because of the monomers seeping through, but is it because the rvinyl tubing is really thick that it's not an issue?
Haven’t had to replace them yet, but also my volume of printing may be less than yours.
12v for me since I’m in the US and also the LEDs and my heating band were 12v.
The vinyl will definitely need to be replaced once a year or so. You could upgrade to silicone tubing and never replace.
@@nicks-fix Ah good call on the 12v led. Will have to see how I'd manage that. Thanks for the advice and glad to hear it's still running great without needing to replace anything... almost a year of printing with clean alcohol with no fuss sounds amazing! Thank you so much for making this video, think I'm just gonna go for it!
@@nicks-fix Is there anywhere I can reach out to you to have a bit more of a n in-depth chat about the system? I've just got a few things I've got questions about or that aren't entirely clear, if you don''t mind.
Awesome video! Is there a step by step on how to put it all together?
Wow! awesome setup! Going through the parts n pieces, for now, I'm only doing the warming piece, and I love the low price of your recommendations. I did notice though that the heating element is super long. Can it be cut? or did you just wrap it around a few times. I have an AnyCubic Photon 4, smaller than yours.
The heating element can NOT be cut. If you need a shorter one, overlapping is fine or buying smaller/shorter strips and wiring them in parallel would work fine to maintain 12v across each pad.
Search for 12v heating pad and a bunch should show up that you can measure to see what works.
Also be sure that your resin vat is metal or can withstand the temps! Would hate to warp your vat.
This system is interesting, and it clearly works, however sediment filters keep catching particles in themselves, that means that's a matter of time when they will loose efficiency or clog completely.
For set it and forget it kind of approach, I think something like centrifugal filtration is more fitting. Cause that way its possible to set it up so all the debris will collect in one place and you will be able to just take it of, clean it and put back
Great thinking! I have experience with centrifuges and when I did a cost benefit comparison, the extreme cost of a centrifuge compared to a replacement filter was an easy decision.
At this point, I’ve cycled 6kg of prints washed through the system and have clear IPA with no clogging of the filters or flow reduction.
A centrifuge may make sense if you are a shop with 10+ printers running every day and a large bath.
I looked into diesel centrifuges (because of their small size and cost) but wasn’t able to make one work. If you have one that you can link us to that is less than $100, I’d love to test it!
@@nicks-fix I of course agree that the approach is dependent on scale, and if you filter small volume time to time id doesn't matter that much.
About diesel filters, I assume that they are not working because they are calculated for a liquid with very different viscosity. So I'd better think more towards understanding the principle and trying to make my own centrifuge. It of course could not be that simple and take a lot of time and iterations to work, so if buying a ready solution is your option, then I'd recommend to search something specificly designed to work with water-like liquids and not oil
Nice setup.
I use a more KISS approach, I have a dirty IPA bath container where all the parts are sunk before going to the cleaning station.
I never felt the need to change the IPA in the station, it's about 2 years old by now. It's not 100% translucent, but never failed me until today. Parts leave it squeaky clean.
How many washes do you do per week, and how much resin have you printed with your current IPA? What do you do with the ipa when it is saturated?
I worry with a system like yours is that you won’t know when things aren’t working the best, as the ipa will get incrementally saturated.
For me, this is following the KISS approach. Maybe our last “s” just looks different. 🤣
I was exposing my tank to the sun, then filtering the alcohol through a paint strainer. Does OK, I can't wait to try this..
Totally! I just hated waiting around and having multiple buckets of IPA.
more of a question than a comment...if I start with fresh IPA to begin with, can I add some of my older IPA a bit at a time and get the cloudiness out of the IPA?
Sure! That’s basically the same as washing your prints between cycles.
Hi Nick, I have been running this system now for a couple of weeks. So far it’s doing a great job cleaning the resin off of my prints. I’ve done about 3 liters or resin through it and there is still zero trace of resin in the IPA. However, I am running into an issue with my IPA getting super cloudy. I’m assuming it’s because I’m using Sunlu 14k dark grey resin, and maybe it has additives in it to print higher detail? I’ve noticed tiny white specs on my prints after I wash them, which I’m assuming is leftover pigment or something. I did some research and it looks like Prusa has made a specific cellulose membrane filter to clean up the leftover particles from the IPA that aren’t resin, so I was wondering if you have any ideas on how to filter out this extra stuff? I’ve tried a flocculant and that made my test IPA from my vat even cloudier, so I’m at a loss as to how to get rid of the extra stuff in the IPA. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Interesting! Haven’t tested all the resins, but what micron filtration are you using?
It might be helpful to apply a more direct uv light directly to the vat while cycling? Let me know!
@@nicks-fix I have the 5 Micron filter and the .5 Micron filter you have linked in the description. I’ve seen folks mention carbon filters, but I don’t know what is any different than the .5 micron filter you’ve already linked. Other than that I’ve tried setting it out in the sun, UV curing it with another lamp, etc, but there isn’t any resin cured after doing those things. The reactor coil seems to catch the actual resin, just not whatever the cloudy stuff is.
I’m open to adding another filter or even replacing the ones I have now with different ones. Maybe I need an even finer micron filter with the 14k resin?
@@nicks-fix Mystery solved! You were right, it was a UV light curing issue. Even though I took out some of the IPA and let it sit in the sun to cure, it must have been just enough off the top of the IPA to not have much resin in it. So it made me think there was no resin in the IPA. I decided to go all out and set all of the IPA in the sun, and sure enough, almost solid white. So that meant my UV light wasn't curing anything at all. So I ran it through my system again and it appears that my UV light I used to replace my insufficient UV LED's wasn't actually hitting the coil, it was focused almost dead center of them, so it wasn't getting the UV light to expose the resin in the IPA. I've got a new set of UV LED's so I'll get that fixed soon, but now the IPA is crystal clear again. Lesson learned part 2.
Nick! Excellent rig you have created. Thank you for sharing this with the resin 3d printing community. Can you show us a video or photos of where the fittings are connected to the bucket? Thank you.
Hey thanks!
In the parts list I used the bulkhead fittings on the lid of the wash bucket.
I thought that was best so i could remove the whole bucket without having to disassemble the system.
@Nick Wilson thank you! Are the end of the tubes reach closer to the bottom of the bucket or near the top?
@@camiloalejandrollanio8192 the suction tube is near the base, the return is closer to the top, but still submerged.
@@nicks-fix Thank you!
The yellowing of the ipa would concern me slightly if im using clear resin. I wonder if adding a carbon reactor at the end of the filtering to clear that up
I use mostly grey and black abs like resin. When I change the filters I might put a carbon micron filter in there to see if there is any benefit!
This ist so amazing!!! ❤
I didn't catch your method of cleaning. Are the parts just static in the tub and the high flow rate does the job? My method for some time is to use a garden sprayer. I leave the parts on the build plate and squirt the parts with reasonable pressure. Inside a large tub of course. I find the mechanical force speeds up the dissolving of the remaining resin. It is a bit messy though. The pressure can't be too high of course. Not just for mess but it can blow the parts off the plate which is a nuisance because I post-cure on the plate as well. For recycling the resin I just let gravity do the job. The fact that alcohol is less dense than resins is very handy. Overnight is generally long enough for the resin to settle. I then just decant the alcohol till I see resin particles at the lip. The remainder goes into another container with the previously settled mixture for further settling. It works but is a bit messy. It would seem your system greatly reduces mess. As to the heating, I have just purchased Chitu System's heater. Cheap and works a treat. I'm going to get more for my other machines. Your system is the best I have seen. Thanks for sharing. One question. How long do the filters last?
This is a genius setup!
Thanks so much!! Working great!!
What about the resin building up on the inside of the tubing? I use a plate stirring unit, a glass beaker and a uv light. The side of the beaker gets covered with resin after just a few minutes of running the system. I then just use a filter cone to get rid of the cured resin. Plus I also have to clean the resin off the inside of the beaker using a paper towel and then some alcohol wipes.
@@Core-vu6mc since the alcohol is constantly moving over the tubing and pump internals, and the system should be run very frequently after each wash, there is minimal build up, if at all.
Great video. 'nuff said
Hi Nick,
Just curious what you’ve calculated for total uv cure time in the loop to be? I ask because I have an old reverse osmosis uv sterlizer that is 254 nm with an exposure output of 17.7 uW/cm2 @ 6w input. From what I can find it seems that most resins are reactive in the 200-400 nm range though with less penetration at the lower ranges. Could be nice to use an off the shelf solution for the uv section.
Also I’m not sure I saw what micron you were filtering to, could you share? Any time I’ve run RO filtration I’ve always tried to run only has small as necessary to improve efficiency.
Great video and setup by the way!
Hi!
The uv lights output the uv range similar to my resin, in the 400’s. I found those pretty easily on Amazon and matched them to my resin exposure.
I haven’t calculated the exposure time of the loop but it’s 5ft long and has 20w of uv light blasting it. The flow rate is moving it pretty quick through there, but since resin in my printer exposes layers at half a second, I imagine it’s pretty close.
More loops, slower pumps, larger tubing and more lights will all increase exposure time/amount if you’re trying to dial things in.
The filters are 5 micron to .5micron. I typically run the system for 15-30 minutes on a timer after I’m done, so that would be 60+ cycles
Brilliant! How are the pipes connected to the tank?
Through holes in the lid!
Found this via your reddit post. You had what looked to be a pool UV filter before in the array. Was that not doing a sufficient job? Also as it's 9 months in, how often are you printing and have you had to change the filters yet?
@nicks-fix I love this setup and am working toward building my own, but I have a question for you. The pump that you're using specifically states not to use with flammable liquids. Have you noticed any issues with the pump? Have you considered upgrading to a fuel pump instead? Thanks
This is really nice and I would not be afraid about the components having problem with IPA. I rather wonder how the PVC tubes will perform after a couple of months. Usually PVC is not UV resistant, why outdoors it is either put into the ground or coated with some paint for UV protection. In this case you cannot do that, since the UV should go through the PVC tube, so it should get brittle over time. Maybe it takes years, but maybe only a few months, I dunno since the UV source is right in front of it. Replacing with silicone tube might be smart after they start becoming harder and harder. Same goes for the fittings, but those can be easily shielded from the uv.
Correct, but under limited pressure I believe I’ll get a ton of life out of these before needing to replace.
This may be a more suitable option!
amzn.to/47gXuMt
how low does the temperature go during winters...where i stay it goes down to -20C at night which is when i do most of my prints... I use a small heater and keep my printer in an enclosure but i dont have a thermostat to keep the temp consistent... you method seems much better... Just wanted to know if temp drops in your area is as drastic as mine...if so would love to see the whole set up process
I’m in northern Oregon, and it gets pretty chilly in my garage. Only had the system going in the warmer months, but will test over the winter!!
I think since I’m warming the aluminum vat with the resin in it, and the temp probe sits in the resin, the temperature control will be much more accurate and efficient.
If you only warm the air, there are lots of losses and wasted energy.
@@nicks-fix correct...could you send an Amazon link to the heating belt and other things required in your setup and again if you could do a set up video it would be immensely helpful ✌️
This is amazing. I'm running 20-30 build plates and consuming maybe 5 kg of resin per day. Do you think this system could keep up? (Currently I'm cleaning IPA using a distiller - it feels like a matter of time before a disaster 💥.)
Also, do you find resin attaching to the tubing in the UV reactor?
This would work great for that. You may find it better to go with larger filter housings and just keep the system cycling all the time.
There is no build up in the tubes at all. If they ever do, you can just replace the cheap hosing with new!
With this pump and the amount of IPA, each minute is 2 complete cycles of the volume of the system. I typically run it for 30 minutes after each wash just to be overkill, but this would be great in your situation.
Have you found the ipa still comes out cloudy? I still think its cleaned for sure. Maybe i need smaller micron filters, two 5 microns arent seeming to separate whatever cured resin is clouding mine
👏👏 great video!
I've been running a similar system, smaller with fish tank pumps so the propeller is completely isolated. I wanted more flow and this video came into my attention. I went to check the pump you included in the video description but the back label states "Do not pump flammable liquids", same for the one of the brand Seaflo. Is yours a specific model for flammable liquids?
Hmm I would recommend replacing your curing loop with another reservoir and adding the leds to the main container with the 3d printed part. With proper programming of the pump/necessary additional valves you could make an automated wash and cure station (with self cleaning ipa)
I worry then the second reservoir will collect cured resin. The reason the tubes work is because it’s actively moving through at a high flow rate.
In addition, a second reservoir has no purpose other than more ipa? What is the point of a secondary reservoir?
Also, why add valves? Seems like extra work with little value?
Assuming it does not clog up your inlet/outlet of the second reservoir, I would argue it's a good thing to collect cured resin there. It'll increase your filter life a little and you only need clean ipa in the first reservoir anyways. Regardless, your setup is awesome as it is and I'm definitely going to build something very similar in the near future. Cheers!
Oh you added a bit while I was writing my reply. My thought with the second reservoir was to hold ipa while the LEDs in the main container cured the part. After a bit more thought, that might not be necessary since you're showing in your setup that uv will penetrate ipa without much issue (albeit at a smaller distance through your tubing)
I haven't thought out all the valves yet but I imagined something automated which pumps out ipa from the main chamber would need some valves
Your system looks nice. I would cover the loop though because UV is not good for your eyes. Printing a plastic cover for the loop might be a good idea.
Yep! It’s been covered with uv blocking tape after the video. I just wanted it visible to show it’s function. Thanks for the tip!
Mate you need to market this, I'd happily pay for it to avoid work, but a lot of other people might not be confident in making it themselves aswell and buying a ready made system would be their only solution
One day once I’ve proven its effectiveness!
This is some low-key final boss villain shit i love it
MwhahahaHahhaahaHAHAHAHhahah
Hi Nick, really close to putting this together now. Got all the parts in but I'm a frustrated as I went with PTFE tubing for the curing loop (Eric Strebel is using fep, but couldnt find that for a reaosnable pricve) but the tubing is not cooperating with being shaped at all. Wondering if silicone would do the trick for that as well or if that would mess with the UV permeability? Also, how have you got your connections to the cleaning tank set up?
Looks awesome! How is it holding up after a year? Is there a maxium amount of IPA you can run through it until filters are full?
Still going strong and no filter changes yet. I don’t print a ton but it’s still super clear.
Thanks this is very helpful.
Atm almost done building a filter set like the vid. Some l leaks in the water test so almost done. Had to get some fittings but it seems to hold on the board so here's going it holds when in service.
Good on you for testing for leaks with water!
Follow up. System leaks contained and running a 30 minute stress test. Had to put some old ipa with resin in to top it off but I'm not on fire and we don't have any noted leaks. Looks like it works more or less as intended
Yes hun also suggested water.
Don't press the vacuum release on the filters it gets liquid everywhere. TLDR bubbling right after the pump but no liquid leaks so trying to determine where air is coming in.
Ok, New longer tubing and swapping the 5micron filter. Wow it's working. Still have air issue but no leaks. The first filter really took the nasty resin water hard but the new one is following up.
Can see the bottom bars of the hand rack when it was solid grey "water" at the start of this madness
Can you post a how to video walking us through setup? Or is it relatively simple once the materials ship in? Thank you very much for your content, easily the most effective and low maintenance setup I’ve seen!
It’s pretty self explanatory once you have the components, just make sure the order is the same as the video!
Material list is in the description!
Thanks for the compliment, let me know how yours works out!
@@nicks-fix ok cool thank you very much I have all the tabs pulled open ready to order 👍will post update when finished 😁
@@nicks-fixThis process was anything but self explanatory. The plumbing itself was fine even though I still have leaks that escape me even with traditional sealing methods and the electrical does not work as intended. I ended up having to buy extra supplies that were not on the list as well; had I known of these issues beforehand I would’ve elected a simpler and cheaper method of ipa filtering
Like what kind of supplies? seems stage forward, but I am curious what you needed to modify?@@masochisticgamer2082
I Really like this idea and am planning my own. Have you had any issue with the vinyl tubing in the uv section? I know that vinyl isn't very uv resistant. I wanted to use FEP tubing, but it is so expensive.
@@JamesDayton-u2u the Uv loop can get hardened after a while, but once it’s that way, it’s low cost to replace!
That being said, no fragility here after a year.
Very nice ideas! Thanks for that! When i am running the heatband with 12V and it has 150W, do i need a acdc adapter with 12,5A? Or did i a mistake? Could u maybe list the full setup how u are running your heatband with thermoelement?
Correct, you need a power supply capable of supplying more than 150w to the 12VDC. I use a 300w power supply, that converts 120VAC to 12VDC, 25amps.
This is very interesting, can we see this in action please, I'd love to hear an update video on how this has perfromed since this videos release, or perhaps a "6 months later" along with any mishaps, upgrades or in hindsight thoughts.
The video shows it in action, it’s just very quiet. Still going strong, no filter changes, over 7kg of prints washed, clear IPA still, no issues!
Curious. I've noticed a lot of the pumps mention not use for flammable fluids, I'm figuring it's for the heat when dry pumping. What's your take?
I agree with that assessment. In addition, the motors that run the pumps are brushed motors. This means an electric brush is riding along the commutator to energize and move the motor shaft.
With brushed motors, you have micro sparks where there is an air gap between the brush and commutator. Look inside at an old wired drill with the lights off. You’ll see them.
In this situation, the IPA is in a closed loop, and the motor is placed at the highest point in the system away from any drips or evaporation.
Since the diaphragm is the only part in contact with the IPA, there is no risk of motor spark inside the pump. The only risk is flammable liquids evaporating and igniting in the air due to a small spark from anything. This is why I have the entire system as a closed loop. The bucket and tubing doesn’t allow any amount of IPA to evaporate.
I’m curious, is the pump providing the washing action or is there an agitator in the bucket as well?
Great question. The return tube goes down to the bottom of the wash tank, and the suction is at the top. When there is a little air, I can see the bubbles hitting all corners of the bucket, so there aren’t any dead areas.
Not sure, if you could use standard aquarium uv algae treatment lights/filters, instead of the custom coiled tubing, with LED strips? Also what about yellow magic with heated ultrasonic cleaner and continuous recovery of the solvent after uv treatment? IPA might degrade final strength of parts, if the bath/cleaning times are not carefully controlled. Just some 💭♥️👍
Totally! I looked into those and worried that the housings/materials weren’t rated for alcohol.
What’s yellow magic?
At this point, given the pumps GPM, the tank of IPA cycles 2.5 times per minute. I think anything over that is diminishing returns.
Everything the IPA touches in this system is rated for extended alcohol resistance, so part degradation is of little concern.
@@nicks-fix Thanks for the clarification, The system could vey well work for Yellow Magic(an industrial solvent). Wish someone could decipher the ingredients to make it less expensive. It's an alternative to a no IPA cleaning process(popularized in formlabs forums). But needs a heated ultrasonic cleaner, with a very breif IPA post-cleaning(or extended soaktime over several hours, helps eliminate thin layer of residual coating). The advantage being complete lack of IPA, coupled with close to 100% reuse(when a simple uv exposure precipitates cured resin out).
Need to see in action!
Come on over bud! 🤣
I built this with the exact parts list and it ran great for several weeks. There was no sediment after washing several liters of parts though the IPA slowly darkened to the point that was difficult to see the bottom of the tub. Then the pump started to leak, slowly at first but became much worse over time. I t would suck air into the system when running and dribble IPA when shut off. I disassembled it and couldn’t find the problem so I reassembled it with silicone grease hoping it would fix the problem if only for a short time. However it was just as bad as previously. The only difference between the setup here and mine is that I mounted the pump upside down from the way he has it.
Does anyone else have experience with running this setup for four or more months? Have you had any of these issues?
Hey! This is great. the LED light strips you linked are 385-400nm, not 405nm. Has that been working for you? Thanks!
@@MrLightmass the specifics depend on the range that your resin needs. Nm wavelength is never exact, so getting it as close to your resin from the manufacturer sheet is the best way to pair it.
@@nicks-fix Thanks for the reply! So the LED's you have listed are working for you?
I am ordering my parts today to give this a go. Are the parts listed in the description the same ones you used in you project? Thanks!
Hey man, really smart setup you got there. I was planning on making something similar, and was wondering if I could get the link for the pump and filters. Cheers.
Sure thing! They are in the description!
wow great work
Thanks!
I just ordered everything to build this filtration system. A question regarding the tubing. Is the pickup line ran all the way to the bottom of the cleaning bucket? Thanks
It is! Just keep it below the IPA line so you don’t introduce air into the system.
new info: the pumps have a safe run time, we found them listed about 5 minutes, 10 minutes cooldown. after running for an hour one day the pump started leaking. gaskets or something failed inside, and was a mess and needed a full replacement short of opening the pump. went a good year before it failed from that.
Still working good though.
@@Frostyviewer yeah I would never leave this running for more than a few minutes, and never unattended.
If you take the lpm or gpm of the pump and compare that to the volume of the wash basin, even a minute or two will give you 200% cycle of the entire volume.
Where is the runtime listed? I’ve never run it for an hour straight but may have gone over the 5 minute limit. It certainly sounds like the reason for both my pump failures.