Love the time and care you took with the prep and masking and preparing areas for spraying and drying. Many a job can be stuffed up by trying to shortcut those steps.
I'm glad you liked it Tom, I was using Berger oil based undercoat and Dulux semi gloss enamel for top coats. I don't think the brand matters as much as the fact that you should use oil based paints on kitchen cabinets. As for tips, I used a 213 for the undercoat and a 211 for the top coats. The undercoat is not as fine as the top coats so that's why I used the slightly larger tip.
Yes it does have a good view, the deck that I was working on is build out to the top of the sand dune so all you need to do is step off the deck and walk down to the beach, a great house to work on.
great job and tasty video lad. I do d exact same procedure when I'm spraying cabinets. best instructural video on utube if ur thinking about doin ur kitchen, this man knows his stuff.
@@howtopaintinfo i have been in the trade 30 years, and see many people use products like 123 or bin, and are told by the store they do not have to sand,
Hi Derek, I used 120 grit for first sand, these cabinets were timber that had been previously clear coated. There should be no issue as long as you give the surface a good sand and use oil based paints, applying two tops would be a good idea. As for melamine cabinets I would have some concerns painting them but in most cases the doors are normally beyond painting and need replacing.
I am going to paint my kitchen cabinets soon so I am here getting some pointers. Thanks for the informative video! I am going to paint them with rollers and being the perfectionist that I am, I think they will turn out great. I will be painting them hi gloss white. And, yes...I will be taking off the doors!! lol Thanks again and I'll bet those cabinets look great in that kitchen now!! Good job, mate. Cheers~
Great work and handling of the gun....As for cleaning the surfaces after sanding I prefer using Naptha since it does not leave that oily residue. I use a graco 395 air assisted with a 211 fine finish tip. Best primer is any alkyd wood undercoater like the one you are using and as for the finish any alkyd gloss enamel works great. Waterbornes are a little to thick and are very difficult to work with. Very neet when prepping. Keep bringing them videos.....
Maybe a rag on your blocks would do good to pad 'em. But I've worked on a cabinet pack throughout the house, kitchens, baths, and walk-ins... There were 85 pieces, shakers style doors plus the built-in base units to do. I did all myself, removing everything, labeling, masking sanding, fill, caulking (detailed shaker style), 2 coating with lacq undercoater, sand, 2nd prep with lacq putty, 2 coat with satin impervo-alkyd. All in 2 weeks, then hung all by myself, they came out flawless truly.
It was a long time ago when I painted those cabinets but I would say they would have been either solid timber or a veneer not a melamine. Melamine is that board that comes in a variety of solid colours and some timber looking patterns but is smooth to touch, a veneer is a thin slither of wood glued on to chipboard, so it still has the grain in it.
Yes, the backs are sprayed first then left to dry, once dry the fronts are lightly sanded then sprayed. The reason for this is there is always the slight chance of damaging the first side you paint as you need to turn door over to paint other side. A small scratch on the inside of the door could be touched up with a brush and not really be seen but on the front it would stand due to the different angles the doors would be seen from.
The undercoat was applied directly onto the cabinet as it had been painted with a clear finish before, if it was bare timber then a primer would have been used. I applied two coats of Satin Enamel after applying one coat of undercoat.
I would have switched between a 411 and a 211, as for pressure I can't remember exactly but I would say about 1200 psi. All paints vary in viscosity so there is no exact pressure, all you can do is have a starting point and alter the pressure to suit.
Generally I always remove tape the day after for two reason. 1) Just in case it hasn't turned our right and you need to apply another coat. 2) The paint work will be dry the following day so there is no risk on damaging wet paint.
A sanding sponge won't remove all the gloss, the idea is to remove any lumps or dirt that may have settled on the surface. Its not a hard sand its just a light rub over. Personally I always use oil based (enamel) for interior woodwork and normally always use semi gloss. I don't think semi gloss is too shiny, the cabinets in this video have been done with semi gloss and some times I wonder if they would have looked better in gloss. So its really what you prefer.
Nice job! i wish i had the money to pay someone like you to do the painting! could you recommend a spray gun type for a beginner, airless/ hvlp ? thanks
good job wht was the grit sand paper that u use people have asked me to paint cabinets i dont like doing cause i dont think that it will last to long painting over those surfaces care to comment thnks ...
Awesome video and a lot of good information in the comments section. I have a question. You show that you sand doors between the coats. Do you also lightly sand the built in structure? If yes, how do you make sure not to damage the taping job? Plus how do you make sure there are no particles on the tape and plastic covering the opening?
With the structure i give it a hard sand before taping so the tape doesn't get damaged. When giving a light sand between coats it's just a case of being a little careful not to damage tape and with a light sand you shouldn't really do any damage anyway. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
If you are using oil based paint make sure you tape around the edges to avoid getting a thick line around where you spray. When you have finished spraying sand the walls and this should remove any mild over spray or spray dust.
Few tips he forgot to mention..........The type of tip used on the gun is very important. You cant use just any size tip. Also.... Make sure everything sits a good day or two before attempting to put things back together. Even though the paint looks dry and feels dry. It takes longer for it to cure because paint dries from the outside in. Its real easy to nick the finished product by putting hardware back on. I usually tell people 2 days to cure then ill comeback to put things together.
ronnie b You have made two good points, you do need to use the correct tip size and it does pay to wait at least one full day or as you have said 2 days is better, before you put back handles etc.
+ronnie b an neither you or the creator of the video stated what kind of tip did he use. @howtopaintinfo what kind of paint did you use for this project?
Hi great video! I am hoping to do something similar in my kitchen....but the material of my cabinets has a plastic feel, and they're hollow...I'm not sure if they are covered in that material called thermofoil?? Would I be able to paint like this straight onto this kind of material or should I strip this covering off first? Thanks for any advice you can give :)
lamamitamendez I would try a test section, sand it first with 180 grit sandpaper then apply a coat of primer, allow to dry a few days then try to scratch it off.
You could tell me privately if you like. I understand what you are saying about soft blocks but I normally just take care in what I'm doing and set them down carefully. I haven't had any issues with scratching as yet but merely explained why the backs should be done first. I normally respond to answers as if the person hasn't painted before, just to give a little reasoning why some things are done the way they are.
Every job is different and every job has unknown variables, houses are normally easy to quote were some commercial or architectural designed building are a little more difficult. As to how to price them can vary from working on a fixed hourly rate but giving the client some indication on how much it will cost. Some painters will quote by the square metre but the best way is too work out how long the job will take you to do.
Great tips as usual.I have 2 question. 1) Around the 4 minutes into the video you said "after the second coat you lightly sand with a sponge. Wouldn't that remove the shine from the paint? 2) I need to paint a built-in-furniture. Would you use an oil emanel. And would a semi-gloss be to shiny>
Light sand before final coat to remove any dust etc that may have settled on the surface. I used a oil based semi gloss enamel on these cupboard, gloss would have been good to but customer wanted semi gloss. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
daniel challenger These cupboards are a timber veneer, MDF can be easily done but laminated cupboards will need a good sand first then a suitable primer applied.
Terry Hunter Yes, paint the back of the door first then the front, you want the front to look the best so just in case there is any over spray it is best if it is on the back of the door.
Thanks, as for recommending a spray gun, that's a hard one as I personally have only ever used an airless. I still gloss (oil based paint) all my woodwork (trim) with a brush and only use the airless for doors or cabinets like the one in the video. I have heard a lot of good reports from painters that use hlvp and know a few that use them for painting all woodwork. Try hiring one first before you buy. I find by the time you mask everything its just as quick to use a brush on certain area's.
Very nice looking finish. Just curious, I have a Graco airless, what tip size did you use? And, what sheen finish, semi-gloss? I'm a big fan of oil base primer and finish for cabinets. There is just more " cure time " involved. I'm not talking about dry to the touch, but totally dry, and cured out. Nice job. thanks for sharing. JohnG
I use a 411 for final coat which was Dulux Semi Gloss enamel paint, its harder wearing then acrylic paint. Cure time is about a week. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Yes I know all about that. I have sprayed cab doors many times in the fashion you showed in this video, using different variations in techniques. I learned to use soft blocks instead of wood blocks, or I set them carefully.. Sometimes I set them all out and spray them and don't move them until dry. But biggest trick is different method altogether, you might like it I don't really want to tell everyone on youtube, but would tell you privately if ya wanted. I have respect for other professionals
But I did all 6 sides at same time, multiple coats same day. 85 pieces all drying at same time, in home, in two normal sized rooms. I hope to find my pics of that, I need to develope 2 old dispoable cameras I'll see what's on them.
Latex primer and undercoat would be ok but oil based paints handle the wear n tear better so oil top coat is best.. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Airless is for high volume stuff like factory production or miles of fence creosote, HVLP is better for finish and woodworking jobs - better finish and much cheaper gear
Hello. My cabinet is a yellowish white, while the door of the cabinet is normal white. If I spray the cabinet with white spray, is it enough or do I need a primer and clear coat as well? If yes, why?
You will need to first sand the surface so the new paint has something to stick too. Then you will need and undercoat to help with coverage and help hide minor marks, then top coat. Clear is not required with house paints but could be used as an added effect. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
8meals.If you do the same process as shown.you can use zinsser primer.not necessarily oil base.just wipe off all the dust with mineral spirits as he did.
whats this spray gun called you used and what brand or type of paint did you use? Sorry if you said this during the vid been a long day searching for the best stuff to use. Jen
like in enamel paint for radiators? Im having a hard time finding a color I like, or a place that has cupboard paint. But if this works well then it should be a bit easier. Thanks for replying and the tutorial x
Im planing on building myself new kitchen cabinets. While I feel comfortable around the wood shop, painting is not my thing. However I plan to learn. My question, using a paint spray gun similar to the one you are using in this video, is it difficult to spray the finished cabinets (minus doors and drawers) or would painting the pieces before assembly be the only way to do it. I want good quality but I would really rather not go through the hassle of painting each piece before its installed. Just was not sure how spraying something like a base cabinet would go with all the nooks and crannies and such. Thanks, nice video.
No, the cabinets were already built in this video. Seeing that mine are not yet built I was wondering if painting the peices before assembly would really be that much better than after assembled or maybe even worse.
Chad Dickinson now I see what you saying.I recommend you to try a Earlex hvlp sprayer.to use airless you have to use Special tips and adjust pressure on the pump.and really have to know what you're doing.hvlp is easier for painting the inside of cabinets.and when painting.you can make the boxes and paint them and doors and drawers can done separately
Harley Chang I built a small cabinet and painted it white with water based latex. I let it dry then gave it a coat of water based polyurethane. I used satin finish but so far so good. The finish is more durable than bare paint and it resists stains better than bare paint.
I have wanted to use clear coat on a few projects but just haven't gotten around to doing it, its a bit like a clear coat on a car. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Personally I don't like to use water based paints on high wear area's like kitchen cabinets. Oil based paints are a lot easier to keep clean and handle the wear better.
It would be nice to build a rack but its enough work for a home owner just painting the cupboards without adding any extra tasks. Don’t forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
Jeepers - I find brushing hard work but the hazmat suit and makeshift spray booth? Ooh, I don't know. Will stick to brushes for now.. Great job though - looks mint.
I thought this was a wonderful video, I have all the same equipment except for that tip, it must be a two inch tip, something I have never used. I saw a rack 10 graco fine finsih tip that small but it seemed to be more for lacquer than emamel.
Why Didn't you cover the inside boxes before you sanded, that way it would have kept the dust out while sanding and then it would have been ready to go for paint...good god???
you would have thought he would clean the cobwebs off the fridge area 1st.. or try ronseal one coat melamine & mdf paint This is for professional ppl only IMO
I don't see any of the answers to any of the questions. Do are they posted somewhere else? And since I am new to this RUclips posts. Where do I go to see if he answered my questions........is it www.youtube.com? then where do I go. THANK EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP. Brenda bAUGHMAN
Love the time and care you took with the prep and masking and preparing areas for spraying and drying. Many a job can be stuffed up by trying to shortcut those steps.
That is very true and that's were most people take the short cuts.
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I'm glad you liked it Tom,
I was using Berger oil based undercoat and Dulux semi gloss enamel for top coats. I don't think the brand matters as much as the fact that you should use oil based paints on kitchen cabinets. As for tips, I used a 213 for the undercoat and a 211 for the top coats. The undercoat is not as fine as the top coats so that's why I used the slightly larger tip.
Thanks for posting video, it's a great way to show people they should hire profesionals.
Perfect finish pal. Great job.
+Dave Mallon Thanks
Nice job mate , did the same at home saved a fortune on replacement units
Yes it does have a good view, the deck that I was working on is build out to the top of the sand dune so all you need to do is step off the deck and walk down to the beach, a great house to work on.
Good luck with your cabinets, hope they come out looking great.
Thanks, yes patience is the key to any good paint job.
Great vid.. inspirational but daunting at the same time..
Thanks for your positive comment.
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Very good video with quality info on painting kitchen cabinets
Home Painters London Thanks.
great job and tasty video lad. I do d exact same procedure when I'm spraying cabinets. best instructural video on utube if ur thinking about doin ur kitchen, this man knows his stuff.
+mighty mac the 2nd Thanks for your comment.
finally someone that uses an oil primer,,great work,,,to many people do not sand and then use a laytex primer to go over varnish
Sanding does make a difference.
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@@howtopaintinfo i have been in the trade 30 years, and see many people use products like 123 or bin, and are told by the store they do not have to sand,
Brilliant info. Thanks.
Great video! Nice work
Thanks.
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Thanks mate, great video!
Thanks.
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Hi Derek,
I used 120 grit for first sand, these cabinets were timber that had been previously clear coated. There should be no issue as long as you give the surface a good sand and use oil based paints, applying two tops would be a good idea. As for melamine cabinets I would have some concerns painting them but in most cases the doors are normally beyond painting and need replacing.
I am going to paint my kitchen cabinets soon so I am here getting some pointers. Thanks for the informative video! I am going to paint them with rollers and being the perfectionist that I am, I think they will turn out great. I will be painting them hi gloss white. And, yes...I will be taking off the doors!! lol Thanks again and I'll bet those cabinets look great in that kitchen now!! Good job, mate. Cheers~
Thanks.
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Great work and handling of the gun....As for cleaning the surfaces after sanding I prefer using Naptha since it does not leave that oily residue. I use a graco 395 air assisted with a 211 fine finish tip. Best primer is any alkyd wood undercoater like the one you are using and as for the finish any alkyd gloss enamel works great. Waterbornes are a little to thick and are very difficult to work with. Very neet when prepping. Keep bringing them videos.....
Thanks.
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nice Job howtopaintinfo! they came up really nice.
Thanks..
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Maybe a rag on your blocks would do good to pad 'em. But I've worked on a cabinet pack throughout the house, kitchens, baths, and walk-ins... There were 85 pieces, shakers style doors plus the built-in base units to do. I did all myself, removing everything, labeling, masking sanding, fill, caulking (detailed shaker style), 2 coating with lacq undercoater, sand, 2nd prep with lacq putty, 2 coat with satin impervo-alkyd. All in 2 weeks, then hung all by myself, they came out flawless truly.
It was a long time ago when I painted those cabinets but I would say they would have been either solid timber or a veneer not a melamine. Melamine is that board that comes in a variety of solid colours and some timber looking patterns but is smooth to touch, a veneer is a thin slither of wood glued on to chipboard, so it still has the grain in it.
Yes, the backs are sprayed first then left to dry, once dry the fronts are lightly sanded then sprayed. The reason for this is there is always the slight chance of damaging the first side you paint as you need to turn door over to paint other side. A small scratch on the inside of the door could be touched up with a brush and not really be seen but on the front it would stand due to the different angles the doors would be seen from.
awesome finish on them doors man
Thanks..
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Very nice work.
I hate Google Thanks
Yes its a 211 or sometimes I use a 411 for enamel and they seem to work fine.
The undercoat was applied directly onto the cabinet as it had been painted with a clear finish before, if it was bare timber then a primer would have been used. I applied two coats of Satin Enamel after applying one coat of undercoat.
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
What brand of undercoat and top coat are you using? And also what size of tip? Regards
Tom
I would have switched between a 411 and a 211, as for pressure I can't remember exactly but I would say about 1200 psi. All paints vary in viscosity so there is no exact pressure, all you can do is have a starting point and alter the pressure to suit.
Generally I always remove tape the day after for two reason.
1) Just in case it hasn't turned our right and you need to apply another coat.
2) The paint work will be dry the following day so there is no risk on damaging wet paint.
Generally I will use it straight from the can but every brand of paint is slightly different so there are times when I do thin the paint slightly.
did a good job with that
Thanks..
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A sanding sponge won't remove all the gloss, the idea is to remove any lumps or dirt that may have settled on the surface. Its not a hard sand its just a light rub over.
Personally I always use oil based (enamel) for interior woodwork and normally always use semi gloss. I don't think semi gloss is too shiny, the cabinets in this video have been done with semi gloss and some times I wonder if they would have looked better in gloss. So its really what you prefer.
Nice job! i wish i had the money to pay someone like you to do the painting! could you recommend a spray gun type for a beginner, airless/ hvlp ? thanks
Good job so it should look
Thanks.
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what did you use for a second coat? and did you put the undercoat directly on to the cabinet?
good job wht was the grit sand paper that u use people have asked me to paint cabinets i dont like doing cause i dont think that it will last to long painting over those surfaces care to comment thnks ...
Awesome video and a lot of good information in the comments section. I have a question. You show that you sand doors between the coats. Do you also lightly sand the built in structure? If yes, how do you make sure not to damage the taping job? Plus how do you make sure there are no particles on the tape and plastic covering the opening?
With the structure i give it a hard sand before taping so the tape doesn't get damaged. When giving a light sand between coats it's just a case of being a little careful not to damage tape and with a light sand you shouldn't really do any damage anyway.
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3:01 That view, Wow!
It was a nice place to work at.
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Great video. How do you prep the walls to paint over the gloss/semigloss overspray?
If you are using oil based paint make sure you tape around the edges to avoid getting a thick line around where you spray. When you have finished spraying sand the walls and this should remove any mild over spray or spray dust.
Few tips he forgot to mention..........The type of tip used on the gun is very important. You cant use just any size tip. Also.... Make sure everything sits a good day or two before attempting to put things back together. Even though the paint looks dry and feels dry. It takes longer for it to cure because paint dries from the outside in. Its real easy to nick the finished product by putting hardware back on. I usually tell people 2 days to cure then ill comeback to put things together.
ronnie b You have made two good points, you do need to use the correct tip size and it does pay to wait at least one full day or as you have said 2 days is better, before you put back handles etc.
You did a good job!! Just trying to help!!
+ronnie b an neither you or the creator of the video stated what kind of tip did he use.
@howtopaintinfo what kind of paint did you use for this project?
210 or 311 tip on a airless sprayer.
thanks man!!! :)
Hi great video! I am hoping to do something similar in my kitchen....but the material of my cabinets has a plastic feel, and they're hollow...I'm not sure if they are covered in that material called thermofoil?? Would I be able to paint like this straight onto this kind of material or should I strip this covering off first? Thanks for any advice you can give :)
lamamitamendez I would try a test section, sand it first with 180 grit sandpaper then apply a coat of primer, allow to dry a few days then try to scratch it off.
You could tell me privately if you like. I understand what you are saying about soft blocks but I normally just take care in what I'm doing and set them down carefully. I haven't had any issues with scratching as yet but merely explained why the backs should be done first. I normally respond to answers as if the person hasn't painted before, just to give a little reasoning why some things are done the way they are.
Are you spraying the back sides of these doors?
thas't the rigth wy to paint some cabinets.. great job
Thanks.
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Every job is different and every job has unknown variables, houses are normally easy to quote were some commercial or architectural designed building are a little more difficult. As to how to price them can vary from working on a fixed hourly rate but giving the client some indication on how much it will cost. Some painters will quote by the square metre but the best way is too work out how long the job will take you to do.
Thanks, yes it is cheaper then replacing them, even if you paid some one else to paint them for you the cost would be far less then replacement cost.
Second coat ( finish coat) it's water base paint or oil base? Thanks!! And BTW looks awesome good job mate
pablo corona Final coat is oil based.
Great tips as usual.I have 2 question.
1) Around the 4 minutes into the video you said "after the second coat you lightly sand with a sponge. Wouldn't that remove the shine from the paint?
2) I need to paint a built-in-furniture. Would you use an oil emanel. And would a semi-gloss be to shiny>
Light sand before final coat to remove any dust etc that may have settled on the surface. I used a oil based semi gloss enamel on these cupboard, gloss would have been good to but customer wanted semi gloss.
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Can you paint a wooden cupboard like this, using just a normal spray paint from like bunnings or something?
Jenna Hutchison Yes you can use spray cans, just make sure it's an enamel paint.
Hi, just wondering if you ever thin oil-based topcoats when using airless? Thanks for the vid.
Yes I do, not a lot but I do thin slightly.
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fantastic ok painter barcelona
JOANCALVET FANDOS Thanks.
great job, tell me something, how do you price out a job? by the hour? by the size of the job? what's the best way?
Every job is different but by the hour is a good way.
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Probably would Prime that using the Dulux Maximum Strength adhesion primer at 40 Microns.
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This is a fantastic job. I have a fitted wardrobe in my bedroom, can I do the same there?
Yes you can, just make sure you tape surrounding wall area.
Good to hear, the worst part is hanging them again as you don't want to scratch them after doing all that hard work.
are they laminated cupboards? is it possible to paint a laminated/mdf sort of kitchen
daniel challenger These cupboards are a timber veneer, MDF can be easily done but laminated cupboards will need a good sand first then a suitable primer applied.
so is that an oil primer on top of a scuffed Melamine surface? not lacquer right?
It was clear timber, so sanded then primed.
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This is great. How do you manage painting both sides of door. Do you wait until one side is dry and repeat for other side?
Terry Hunter Yes, paint the back of the door first then the front, you want the front to look the best so just in case there is any over spray it is best if it is on the back of the door.
Thanks, as for recommending a spray gun, that's a hard one as I personally have only ever used an airless. I still gloss (oil based paint) all my woodwork (trim) with a brush and only use the airless for doors or cabinets like the one in the video. I have heard a lot of good reports from painters that use hlvp and know a few that use them for painting all woodwork. Try hiring one first before you buy.
I find by the time you mask everything its just as quick to use a brush on certain area's.
Very nice looking finish. Just curious, I have a Graco airless, what tip size did you use? And, what sheen finish, semi-gloss? I'm a big fan of oil base primer and finish for cabinets. There is just more " cure time " involved. I'm not talking about dry to the touch, but totally dry, and cured out. Nice job. thanks for sharing. JohnG
I use a 411 for final coat which was Dulux Semi Gloss enamel paint, its harder wearing then acrylic paint. Cure time is about a week.
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just wondering what tip size and pressure u ran the airless at with the gloss
Pressure was about 1800 and tip was a 411 and for cupboard edges 211.
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Not sure if this question has been asked or not, but what paint did you use for this project? Special primers too? Thanks
I think they use oil primer like killz and then you can use latex
i use oil based undercoat/primer and Semi Gloss Enamel top coat.
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Yes I know all about that. I have sprayed cab doors many times in the fashion you showed in this video, using different variations in techniques. I learned to use soft blocks instead of wood blocks, or I set them carefully.. Sometimes I set them all out and spray them and don't move them until dry. But biggest trick is different method altogether, you might like it I don't really want to tell everyone on youtube, but would tell you privately if ya wanted. I have respect for other professionals
But I did all 6 sides at same time, multiple coats same day. 85 pieces all drying at same time, in home, in two normal sized rooms. I hope to find my pics of that, I need to develope 2 old dispoable cameras I'll see what's on them.
is it a bad idea to use latex for the paint or primer?
Latex primer and undercoat would be ok but oil based paints handle the wear n tear better so oil top coat is best..
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In the end, what is that spot on the far side lieft of the board? A dent? Or a bubble?
+MrTruth111 Screw holes for the handle, I think that's what you are talking about
+howtopaintinfo Yep, thanks, I should have known that...
Airless is for high volume stuff like factory production or miles of fence creosote, HVLP is better for finish and woodworking jobs - better finish and much cheaper gear
I won't disagree with that but you can still use an airless with a fine tip to get great results.
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What primer and paint did you use?
Oil based primer and Dulux satin enamel top coat.
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Hello. My cabinet is a yellowish white, while the door of the cabinet is normal white. If I spray the cabinet with white spray, is it enough or do I need a primer and clear coat as well? If yes, why?
You will need to first sand the surface so the new paint has something to stick too. Then you will need and undercoat to help with coverage and help hide minor marks, then top coat. Clear is not required with house paints but could be used as an added effect.
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@@howtopaintinfo awesome. thanks.
Hi ,
What is the best water base paint for cabinets ?
Please name it the best one !
Again many thanks 🙏
I only use oil based paint for cabinets but If I had to use acrylic then it would be an Dulux Aquanamel.
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@@howtopaintinfo thank you so much 🙌🏼
Use fflp tip with 208 and if its waterbase add about 5% water , it does look like my hvlp results
Great
8meals.If you do the same process as shown.you can use zinsser primer.not necessarily oil base.just wipe off all the dust with mineral spirits as he did.
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whats this spray gun called you used and what brand or type of paint did you use? Sorry if you said this during the vid been a long day searching for the best stuff to use.
Jen
The spray gun used was a Graco 695 and the paint used was Dulux Satin Enamel
like in enamel paint for radiators? Im having a hard time finding a color I like, or a place that has cupboard paint. But if this works well then it should be a bit easier. Thanks for replying and the tutorial x
The enamel is normal interior paint, the same paint used on interior woodwork or trim. Radiator paint is designed for high temperatures
ah right, fab. Thanks for the help x
When do u peal off tape how long after ur done?
Generally let the paint harden over night then remove it.
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what paint product are you using?
Dulux Semi Gloss Enamel.
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what is mineral terps?
Mineral Turpentine.
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Im planing on building myself new kitchen cabinets. While I feel comfortable around the wood shop, painting is not my thing. However I plan to learn. My question, using a paint spray gun similar to the one you are using in this video, is it difficult to spray the finished cabinets (minus doors and drawers) or would painting the pieces before assembly be the only way to do it. I want good quality but I would really rather not go through the hassle of painting each piece before its installed. Just was not sure how spraying something like a base cabinet would go with all the nooks and crannies and such. Thanks, nice video.
Chad Dickinson unfortunately you have to go by pieces if you want a professional finish.just like he did.
No, the cabinets were already built in this video. Seeing that mine are not yet built I was wondering if painting the peices before assembly would really be that much better than after assembled or maybe even worse.
Chad Dickinson now I see what you saying.I recommend you to try a Earlex hvlp sprayer.to use airless you have to use Special tips and adjust pressure on the pump.and really have to know what you're doing.hvlp is easier for painting the inside of cabinets.and when painting.you can make the boxes and paint them and doors and drawers can done separately
My plan is to get something like the graco x5.
Painting in pieces could work but there might be some damage when assembling everything.
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what sort of paint did you use? it appears quite glossy , i am trying paint my cabinets as glossy as possible.
Harley Chang
I built a small cabinet and painted it white with water based latex. I let it dry then gave it a coat of water based polyurethane. I used satin finish but so far so good. The finish is more durable than bare paint and it resists stains better than bare paint.
I have wanted to use clear coat on a few projects but just haven't gotten around to doing it, its a bit like a clear coat on a car.
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Satin Enamel, it dried done a bit duller then when it was wet.
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what paint are you using
Dulux Semi Gloss Enamel.
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what do you think about waterborne paint?
Personally I don't like to use water based paints on high wear area's like kitchen cabinets. Oil based paints are a lot easier to keep clean and handle the wear better.
***** Well if the cabinets are against a beige wall lets say... Then they still look white right?? LoL
The tip should be 315 or 415. It is better to build a rack with nails in a sealed room so all you need is to flip the doors once.
It would be nice to build a rack but its enough work for a home owner just painting the cupboards without adding any extra tasks.
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Can i use a wagner wallperfect w867e
If that is what you have then use it, the main difference is that it will take a little longer to paint.
What size tip did you use?
I used a 411 and a 211.
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@@howtopaintinfo damn five years too late. Been using a brush instead. Lol jk
Jeepers - I find brushing hard work but the hazmat suit and makeshift spray booth? Ooh, I don't know. Will stick to brushes for now.. Great job though - looks mint.
You can still get a great finish using a brush.
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Well it shows people there is more to painting then just slapping on some paint.
oil based or latex for the paint?
Conner Tatum
He said oil multiple times and also in the comment section too.
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What tip are you spraying with?
310, 211
I think it was a 411 or 211, most likely the 211
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I thought this was a wonderful video, I have all the same equipment except for that tip, it must be a two inch tip, something I have never used. I saw a rack 10 graco fine finsih tip that small but it seemed to be more for lacquer than emamel.
what? wheres the pics/video of the finished kitchen??
Sorry, I left the job and the builder put the doors back on a few weeks later.
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That jelly needs to be refrigerated after opening.
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What sprayer? What paint?
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is it called lacquered mdf...??
Yeah lacquer it's the best for painting very smooth finish
This cupboard was solid timber not MDF
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what your pump
Graco 695
Tip size is 212 or 211.
+jonghyoun kim 211 and for larger areas 411
question.... at 0:42, mineral what? your accent has got me!! mineral terps?
Mineral Turps.
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model machine airless?
Graco 695.
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Why Didn't you cover the inside boxes before you sanded, that way it would have kept the dust out while sanding and then it would have been ready to go for paint...good god???
Because you would risk scratching though the tape, a little dust can be cleaned out
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James Holmes IncI like painting finished
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you would have thought he would clean the cobwebs off the fridge area 1st.. or try ronseal one coat melamine & mdf paint This is for professional ppl only IMO
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I don't see any of the answers to any of the questions. Do are they posted somewhere else? And since I am new to this RUclips posts. Where do I go to see if he answered my questions........is it www.youtube.com? then where do I go. THANK EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP. Brenda bAUGHMAN
What questions.
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