Wanted to stop and tell you THANK YOU for this video! Just got my Sebenza about a week back, and tried to oil it putting a bit of Hoppes on the top of the blade and opening/closing it a few times. Needless to say, it didn't do much at all! After following your instructions (and cleaning all the gunk that the Hoppes helped accumulate after a week in my pocket), this baby opens so much more smoothly! Truly appreciate it!
Hello, I don't often leave comments on "How to" videos, but I wanted to do so in this instance. I appreciate your video. It was straightforward, and I was able to get my new large Sebenza Insingo squared away as a result. When I got it new, it didn't want to flip at all. Now, I'm able to hook my thumbnail against the stud, flip, and the blade flashes out with minimal effort. This is the first time I've taken a knife apart, and it's such a joy to admire the simplicity and elegance of Mr. Reeves' design. Thanks again for sharing, have a good one.
The oxide layer doesn't normally wear off, ever. There have been some cases where it has flaked off, but that is rare. Under normal circumstances, that oxide layer will last 20+ years without ever needing work. Although, when you send your knife in for the spa treatment I am almost positive they re treat the lock bar, which would take care of any where in the first place. I personally know of a Sebenza that has been used for more than 16 years with zero lock problems. :)
I recently picked up a 2016 Sebenza 21 (Small) and it is the tightest Reeve I've ever encountered. After three weeks of two-handed opening and repeated rebuilds, it is still too tight to open with one hand.
Good vid. I always just dropped hoppes gun oil. I have mine for about 6 years now. Only had the pins loosen once. I had to put something in the pivot to make it not back off.
Does the triangular metal piece on the lockbar, wrap around to the lockbar interface? I always thought the lockbar interface was carbidized, but my Sebenza 21’s look like the metal wraps around to the lockbar interface.
Good vid. What happens when the oxidizing wears off? I saw another manufacturer that puts piece of steel at the end of the lock held in place with 2 screws, that way when the piece wears off, you can replace it and have new lock. I like the simplicity of this knife. I just wonder how long it will last under heavy use.
I'm not sure if you knew, or if anyone has mentioned, but the term you are looking for to describe the surface hardened Ti is carBURized. I'm pretty sure carburizing might not work with just plain Titanium, but since knives are typically made with 6Al-4V Ti, they can do so. Just thought I'd help you out with the term. lol, Neptuneknives got hit panties in a twist when i corrected him by saying they were carburized but he thought I said carBIDized . . . goooood times LOL
the slant is there from tape. after they heat treat the lock bar and pres in the detent ball thet tape that area and sand blast it. the tape prevents the detent ball from being blasted.
@gibsonbat9 Either you put too much lube in or the pivot bushing is too thin. This was the case with my 21 and I've heard of it happening to other people. My classic (2006) and my regular (2007) are pretty much perfect. The classics lock is a bit sticky, but it's not bad. The regular is perfect.
@bigbubba5037 Thanks brother, but I knew. I've said that in my last 10 or so videos regarding sebenzas, and I kept getting people correcting me telling me it wasn't carbidized, thinking that's the word I used. They didn't know "carburized" was a word, they though I was mispronouncing carbidized. Needless to say I just say "treated" now.
lets face it a knife that costs $400 or more - your not going to use it hard . so it dosnt need cleaning that much . still a nice knife but for that price i would hate to fuck it up .
Wanted to stop and tell you THANK YOU for this video! Just got my Sebenza about a week back, and tried to oil it putting a bit of Hoppes on the top of the blade and opening/closing it a few times. Needless to say, it didn't do much at all! After following your instructions (and cleaning all the gunk that the Hoppes helped accumulate after a week in my pocket), this baby opens so much more smoothly! Truly appreciate it!
Hello, I don't often leave comments on "How to" videos, but I wanted to do so in this instance. I appreciate your video. It was straightforward, and I was able to get my new large Sebenza Insingo squared away as a result. When I got it new, it didn't want to flip at all. Now, I'm able to hook my thumbnail against the stud, flip, and the blade flashes out with minimal effort. This is the first time I've taken a knife apart, and it's such a joy to admire the simplicity and elegance of Mr. Reeves' design. Thanks again for sharing, have a good one.
wow 10 years later the same knives are still dominating the knife world!
The oxide layer doesn't normally wear off, ever. There have been some cases where it has flaked off, but that is rare.
Under normal circumstances, that oxide layer will last 20+ years without ever needing work. Although, when you send your knife in for the spa treatment I am almost positive they re treat the lock bar, which would take care of any where in the first place. I personally know of a Sebenza that has been used for more than 16 years with zero lock problems. :)
Thanks J. That shows a very efficient process that is most helpful. I followed it to the letter.
B.
I just got my first sebenza 2 weeks ago, thanks a lot dude!
wow no other video explained it like this thankyou very much
I recently picked up a 2016 Sebenza 21 (Small) and it is the tightest Reeve I've ever encountered. After three weeks of two-handed opening and repeated rebuilds, it is still too tight to open with one hand.
Good video and info J. Thanks for sharing.
Good vid. I always just dropped hoppes gun oil. I have mine for about 6 years now. Only had the pins loosen once. I had to put something in the pivot to make it not back off.
Does the triangular metal piece on the lockbar, wrap around to the lockbar interface? I always thought the lockbar interface was carbidized, but my Sebenza 21’s look like the metal wraps around to the lockbar interface.
Good vid.
What happens when the oxidizing wears off? I saw another manufacturer that puts piece of steel at the end of the lock held in place with 2 screws, that way when the piece wears off, you can replace it and have new lock. I like the simplicity of this knife. I just wonder how long it will last under heavy use.
Do you take knifes in and for a fee work on sebenza? Specifically sanding down washers or to fix a bent one?
I'm not sure if you knew, or if anyone has mentioned, but the term you are looking for to describe the surface hardened Ti is carBURized. I'm pretty sure carburizing might not work with just plain Titanium, but since knives are typically made with 6Al-4V Ti, they can do so. Just thought I'd help you out with the term. lol, Neptuneknives got hit panties in a twist when i corrected him by saying they were carburized but he thought I said carBIDized . . . goooood times LOL
Hey man, I am getting the spyderco vallotton tommorrow and wanted to know your thoughts on it? Off topic yes, but still....
the slant is there from tape. after they heat treat the lock bar and pres in the detent ball thet tape that area and sand blast it. the tape prevents the detent ball from being blasted.
Does Mark's outdoors carry CRK Florinated Grease?
How many Chris Reeve's knives do you own?
hey mr john i saw somewhere that if u fick open a crk if voids the warrenty
I like these videos where you take them apart. Can you show some regular knives like some spydercos.
Just figured it out. You have exactly the same accent as Billy Bob Thornton.
@gibsonbat9 Either you put too much lube in or the pivot bushing is too thin. This was the case with my 21 and I've heard of it happening to other people. My classic (2006) and my regular (2007) are pretty much perfect. The classics lock is a bit sticky, but it's not bad. The regular is perfect.
Geat vid on CRK take down and lube!
Thanks Mate! That was helpful.
@Thraknar123 Yep!
@bigbubba5037 Thanks brother, but I knew. I've said that in my last 10 or so videos regarding sebenzas, and I kept getting people correcting me telling me it wasn't carbidized, thinking that's the word I used. They didn't know "carburized" was a word, they though I was mispronouncing carbidized. Needless to say I just say "treated" now.
I've always heard to keep the washers oriented to their original wear pattern but I don't think it really matters in the grand scheme of things.
Yup, people are too finicky with these "work" knives
Copper is so soft, I can't see it having any impact either.
Haven't made the switch. I will when I get adsense up and running.
What ever happened to "TheArtOfSharp" ?
Thanks
#1
#9! beat that!
Good "clean" vid. Nice
lets face it a knife that costs $400 or more - your not going to use it hard .
so it dosnt need cleaning that much .
still a nice knife but for that price i would hate to fuck it up .