I'm sure Ryan has learned by now why charcoal is important in soil mixes, but for those watching this in the future, I'll answer the question. This video is almost five years old at the time I'm writing this. Charcoal creates a giant apartment complex for beneficial bacteria and fungi to live. Healthy bacteria and fungi LOVE living in charcoal. There are MANY other reasons to use it but this is the leading reason I use it in all types of potting mixes. Take your horticultural charcoal and spray it with a mycorrhizae solution to "charge" the charcoal just before adding it to your soil mixes. The fungal network in your soil will stun you upon your next repotting.
i used charcoal in my mixes, some guys pointed out on my social media that the phlevels arent as perfect (for some trees) as they should be after a while (one of them was studiying in japan for a few years) so he even had that longterm results, what do you think?
@@hashiramabonsai I agree, it can alter the ph levels of the soil. The addition of charcoal in the soil mix is supposed to be no more than 5% so it shouldn't alter it much. It's merely there to promote mycorrhizal activity. Supposedly it can also store some nutrients and slowly release them back to the roots as needed, which might also be from the mycorrhizal activity.
You are unbelievable Ryan! And Mirai is such a huge favor to rest of world with limited knowledge & resources about Bonsai! Cant thank you enough sir! Fantastic!!
I've always wanted to hear an in depth discussion on soil particles, particle size, and how it relates to the development of trees both above and below the soil level. This is it. Thank you very much.
This video vindicates me. I live in Minnesota and have been involved with bonsai for more than 50 years a grow red cedars (Juniperus virginiana) because they grow in abundance here. They do very well on the high ground, especially around limestone outcroppings. Many of the so-called 'experts' say they are worthless for bonsai and often tell newbies the wrong soil mix according to this video and Ryan Neil. Now I understand why they don't do well with red cedars and I do.
As someone living in a small town in Portugal, where very few people have this interest and everything seems to be so hard to get my hands on, from trees, to pots, to soil... your videos have been really interesting and educational. You go way beyond the usual care guides of "prune here in the spring", "repot every two years", "water when the top looks and feels dry", and actually go out of your way to teach in a way that is so easy to understand but also while actually explaining why things work the way they do, and why this is nature in a small container, depending on our care and interpretation and knowledge to live and thrive. I have only been going at Bonsai for a few months, but I can already tell that I am addicted for life, and you are a reference for me. Keep up the great work. Make sure to visit Portugal and the Azores islands, I'm sure you'll find fascinating stuff here.
Hello. So its been six whole years since you left this comment. I wonder was it true thus far.... addicted for life? Are you still doing bonsai? Starting to get a nice little collection with some more established trees now you did yourself? Or perhaps you went nuts with it and your whole house anf yard are full of pots and seedilings and etc rtc . :)
@@iamshredder3587 haha. well, I have had ups and downs, but have always kept at least a handfull of trees. Have learned a lot about where I live as well, and what trees tend to do well or not naturally. Always warm, never have cold seasons, lots of rain, lots of little bugs...etc etc. So I have had a "crazy run" where I had a lot of trees (and I mean trees, not bonsai - was triying to turn them into bonsai). And now I recently moved and have 5 bonsai, which I pay a lot of attention to. Again, if I lived elsewhere, with more access, I am certain I would have more. But not only am I in a little town, but also I am on an island. So I can't really order a lot of stuff in, especially stuff that might not travel well.
@vitorcruz271 - ah I wasn't actually expecting a reply to this after four years lol. But glad you did. :) And glad you're still chasing your interest in. Even casually with a few plants which is 100% perfectly ok too, don't think you have to be a professional or go crazy and devote your whole life and all your time to it and have to know everything about everything and more than the next guy and have several of every tree on earth or elde you're not a real bonsai guy or whatever lol. I do see that quite abit, especially relative noobs that are just starting to gain some knowledge and skills etc. For me i like it as hobby and interest I can enjoy over the years and decades and at different paces. Sometimes I have a big period of inspiration and go buying and making new material and such. Sometimes I get bored and barely touch what I have. Which can end up doing the trees good too. Just letting grow out and get strong and thicken up and all without messing with them sometimes is a good thing imho. Anyway long as you're enjoying it and learning and getting something positive out if it. I understand your dilemma about location and the difficulties in sourcing all your materials , in learning and converting what most standard books and videos teach to do and when to do it etc to a much different environment and often different plants. I'm currently at my semi-rural 100 acre estate in central Queensland, Australia. And everything is all back to front and upside down and inside out in Australia. Including the trees and how they grow compared to USA where I was born. (Dual citizen. With a beautiful fiancee from Armenia so house and lot of connections to too. ) Everything , especially the people! (Settle down fellas Crikey mate, im just pulling ya leg ya wombat! Maaaaattte!!! Translation: "my dear aussie friends and neighbours. Do pardon my friendly bantor, I intended thee no offense. Anyway yes it's been alot harder to source stuff here or find others into it that I haven't spread the bug to myself. Hard to get help or advice Sometimes if have problems. But technology and the internet help alot. Idk how much you've truedbut I'd say don't discount ordering trees and stuff online altogether and keep it a possibility. I've found in recent years there's become alot more available for delivery alot easier , prices are getting much better, and sellers are getting much better at shipping even larger and quite advanced trees out to long distances and decent periods with a good consistent success rate and guarantees. Indeed some of if not most of my best new trees of recent years have been ordered online and shipped to my po box. . It may might not be viable on your island and all but, keep checking . Anyway surely there must be quite a good selection of both native and exotic material in the Azore Islands no? Isn't there even a saying like "anything and everything grows in the Azores"? All the rich volcanic soil and sunshine. Winter and spring rains and sunny but gebtle summers yeah? I cant remember but, isnt it famous for its beautiful hydrangeas adorning the homes and roads and such? Or perhaps it was camellias? And don't you even have a native juniper that's endemic to the area? Well as blueberries, raspberries, all kinds of things I onky wish would grow here in qld. :) I'm just a little suprised youd have that much troubke there, but I don't know it wel. I actually been considering visiting there for a holiday. My beautiful fuancees suggestion. she seems To think it's basically paradise on earth. .:)) Anyway good luck , enjoy your trees, and who knows...I may even see you around somet8me
@@iamshredder3587 yes, many things do very well here indeed. It is a matter of picking the trees well. Have had trouble with a few I would enjoy growing, namely that require more of a cold season, etc. But it is what it is :)
Does Mirai have info on soil ratios for the different species, every green?, deciduous you have said only akadama, shimpaku junipers?, single flush pines in know you have said 1/3, 1/3, 1/3, double flush pines? I appreciate your intelligent info and approach to Bonsai, very limited to the masses here in Australia, eventhough we have some very talented people as alot of the clubs are drive by people with personalitydisorders 😊. I have been involved in Bonsai here for almost 30 years, and in that time have learnt more in the last 2 years watching your RUclips productions, thankyou to you and your team.
Hi Ryan i think Chabasai its the brand of the product that is a type of zeolite called cabazite that its used for cat litter, pool filters and aquarium filters and its really cheap (compared to akadama)... the thing with other types of zeolite is that it desintegrates with water but i imagine chabazite not cause how would it be that sensitive for water if it is used un pool filters. 25 bucks for 25 kilos (its heavy so its not as much as it sounds).
If I had the choice I would have chosen the shallow container... There is something about seeing a big strong tree growing healthy, even though it "appears" to not have much of a root system... Also thank you for posting these lessons here on RUclips... I'm a new to bonsai and I am learning a ton of good information from you...👍🏻👍🏻
@Wilfred "I Tapped Dat Ass" Kensington high IQ people speak faster and can understand other fast speakers (in general). They also tend to have faster physical reaction times.
I have not yet practiced bonsai, but have been intrigued since high school. I have been reading, watching, and otherwise researching every aspect of bonsai over the years and have seen and heard many different practices for repotting. I have seen a lot of people bare root every time they repot. However those trees, as beautiful as they appear, have no shin and I could only imagine that bare rooting the tree (2-8 years) adds unnecessary stress to an already restricted root system. So my question is, does the tree need the shin for the refinement bonsai strives to achieve, and does bare rooting the tree at every repot have detrimental affects in the long run? And one more thing, if Akadama can't be used for juniper, what soil mix is recommended?
Organic fertilizer is actually usually neutral in charge. It isn't water soluble and for NPK to be released, it needs to decompose. For example, amino acids would decompose and generate NH3 gas, which can dissolve in water and become NH4+ which the plant can take up and use. If you have a chemical fertilizer, you could have something like Ammonium nitrate (NH4NO3), and that will dissolve in water as charged particles. They would wash away with water if they don't stick to your soil particles. So it seems Ryan has it backwards.
thoroughly enjoyed, love how informative these are, you describe every detail kinda like a math problem and that's damn hard to find! also since it got brought up and I obsessed researching it for a while last year, heres a long reply about granite: In regards to the granite in the soil, crushed granite is one of the main sources of potassium i believe. while potassium's necessity in crop yield is known, its use for bonsai shouldn't be overlooked. Firstly, it's involved in more plant functions than any other soil element, including transportation, signaling, activation, expansion, acceleration, and regulation of various plant functions to name a few. Secondly, its the element directly related with cambial width, vessel size and production of wood, creating that great trunk. this along with the facts that its involved in most processes of growth , and is always the lesser ingredient in bonsai fertilizer, makes it arguable that granite soil could be fairly beneficial. since turgor pressure regulation is also one of its tasks, I'm sure theres some way for a tree to access the potassium locked inside lol
A lot of bonsai practice became clear to me since the core of your lessons is bonsai tree physiology. Can you recommend me literature that treats this kind of stuff especially for bonsai or even better could you write a book on this matter?
love to see good long talks on bonsai. I like how the shallower sculpture pot has that stair step in front that starts your eyes at the bottom, leads you in, and the tree follows in that direction.
I took soil science at the U of M yrs ago and Ryan talked about it, talked around it, but never mentioned the term "surface tension of water" in the relation of particles in the soil. I thought it ironic that he went into the long detailed explanation of the advantages of akadama and then brings out a beautiful natural literali Colorado Blue Spruce with a compact root system that obviously never saw akadama.in its soil, and at 41:22 of the video mentioned that people spend lots of money to obtain akadama when we have other alternatives for it but never mentioned what those alternatives might be. Where I live in SE Minnesota and there is an abundance on red cedars (juniper virginia) growing here mainly in areas where there is exposed limestone in the driftless areas and I have over 50+ yrs of bonsai successfully grown beautiful red cedars as bonsai w/o ever used akadama in any of my soil mixes.
Could you share your soil mix? I don't have access to akadama or diatomacious earth. I just have regular garden center soil componets like vermiculite, perlite, gravel, dirt, bark, etc.
I've just discovered your channel and have found it all to be very informative. The question I have is, where do I find diatomaceous earth in any other form other than powder? I have looked online and everything I am finding is a pesticide or a food grade powder to add to food or something. Thank you for the better understanding of Akadama and why Turface will not work.
Thx for this video.. i make my own mix since 5 yrs... 50% akadama..the other part is split between perlite, pine bark, gravel and lava...depends on the tree, its root system and the level of refinement its in..
I have a problem with granite-based soils. I recently purchased horticultural grit based on granite and, typically, many particles were coated with pyrite. When this decomposes it will produce sulphuric acid (sorry, I'm British), sulfuric acid. It's hard to understand how that can be good for any tree. Pure granite is quartz (will never decompose), feldspar (will decompose to a clay called kaolinite and Muscovite (mica). All relatively benign - but granite is rarely pure. Very much enjoyed the video.
I added charcoal as a medium to help adsorb nutrients that would otherwise be more easily able to pass through the soil and end up in the yard. I'll keep tabs on my progress and see if it gives me any good luck. I associated it with being similar to a very hard and lightweight chemical sponge.
What is the "Chabuzai" (? spelling) that you mentioned you got from Montreal? Also, what product do you use for Diatomaceous Earth? Is it Floor Dry from Napa Auto? Thanks.
what i read about Charcoal that it has high cation exchange capacity CEC it Improve Soil Quality adding charcoal to soil may provide more benefits for long-term soil quality than compost or manure charcoal improving air circulation and increasing the soil's ability to retain water and nutrients
great video, watch your channel a lot, keep it up. a question I sometimes hear people say that you always have to make sure that everything about the same guy has to be big. for example: akadama 3-5mm. in combination with 1-2mm zeolite is not don, because you always have to use the same grain size. what do you think?
Can you forward me the link to the reporting video you mentioned at the beginning of this video? I thought you said Nursery Stock Series Pt. 4 but it is not coming up. Great information. It has greatly improved my Bonsai knowledge and practice. Thank you
bonsaijoe1 O'Reilly auto parts sells an absorbant I believe it's called Opti sorb. It is DE and is around 15 bucks for a forty pound bag. The partical size is consistent and very little unusable product. It works fine for me, and I don't have to buy it online like I would akadama, pumice, or expanded shale.
alex colon I wonder if you could use small fragments from a broken terra-cotta pot, if there is one lying around. Terra-cotta is baked and will hold up for a while.
Thanks so much. I thought you said Donovan and that just wasn't getting me anywhere. :) One more question, in this demo Ryan mentions another vid on soils as part of his Nursery Stock Series (Part 4) but I can't find it either on RUclips or as part of Mirai Live (I'm Tier 1). How can I get access to it? Thanks.
Interesting, informative ... but confusing, or adding to confusion about right/wrong soil components. For example, I read glowing reports from people growing bonsai in turface-based soils which Ryan totally dismisses. Whom to believe?!
Actually it hasn't. 7 is still neutral, even Wiki agrees on that (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH). Now it so happens that most plants like a slightly acidic soil, pH 6.0 to 6.5 (same wiki page, section 'pH in soil'). To my understanding pH 6.0 to 6.5 is the range where mineral elements are the easiest available to most plants, thus their "liking" of slightly acidic soil and (rain) water. Any chemist around to explain why slightly acidic makes minerals easier available?
Maybe this article can help you: walter-pall-bonsai.blogspot.com/2010/06/feeding-substrate-and-watering-english.html. According to Walter Pall you can use whatever substrate that suits your climate, needs of the tree, and time you can spend checking and watering. As Ryan always tells: “What are you trying to accomplish?”. I’d extent that thought to: “What has the substrate to accomplish for your tree, in your climate and with your schedule”. The best advice: find someone in your area that grows bonsai in diatomaceous earth. If you can’t, make your own tests on cheap trees. What is the longest time span you can go without watering in the hottest and/or driest days of the year. Say you can water your tree only once every 24 hours and your tree needs water every 6 hours in ditomaceous earth where you live, then 100% diatomaceous earth is a no go… unless you like dead trees. Also think of times when you have someone else to water your trees. If you leave for a 2 weeks vacation and the person who comes to care for your trees knows nothing more than “pour a ton of water once every day on the trees” then your substrate must provide enough water to the trees for that treatment, even in full summer. Most likely you will have to check every day of the 50 remaining weeks to avoid over-watering… but everything comes at a price. Besides checking means you enjoy the trees 350 days a year, not the worst trade. Hope this helps on choosing the substrate that will rock for you.
I actually really enjoy his teaching style. He is trying to make you think about WHY and not just WHAT but I can see how others might find it patronizing.
yeah, too many syllables. it's a feature of someone thinking they sound more academic by saying utilize instead of use, facilitate instead of help etc. but it is forgivable for someone trained as a bonsai grower not public speaker who wants to share Take Orwell's advice www.orwell.ru/library/essays/politics/english/e_polit PRETENTIOUS DICTION. Words like phenomenon, element, individual (as noun), objective, categorical, effective, virtual, basic, primary, promote, constitute, exhibit, exploit, utilize, eliminate, liquidate, are used to dress up a simple statement and give an air of scientific impartiality to biased judgements.
I'm sure Ryan has learned by now why charcoal is important in soil mixes, but for those watching this in the future, I'll answer the question. This video is almost five years old at the time I'm writing this. Charcoal creates a giant apartment complex for beneficial bacteria and fungi to live. Healthy bacteria and fungi LOVE living in charcoal. There are MANY other reasons to use it but this is the leading reason I use it in all types of potting mixes. Take your horticultural charcoal and spray it with a mycorrhizae solution to "charge" the charcoal just before adding it to your soil mixes. The fungal network in your soil will stun you upon your next repotting.
I will try on my next repot
i used charcoal in my mixes, some guys pointed out on my social media that the phlevels arent as perfect (for some trees) as they should be after a while (one of them was studiying in japan for a few years) so he even had that longterm results, what do you think?
@@hashiramabonsai I agree, it can alter the ph levels of the soil. The addition of charcoal in the soil mix is supposed to be no more than 5% so it shouldn't alter it much. It's merely there to promote mycorrhizal activity. Supposedly it can also store some nutrients and slowly release them back to the roots as needed, which might also be from the mycorrhizal activity.
@cactsai so far I had no issues with phlevels in general but I will stick to your 5% rule for the future! Thanks a lot🌳💚
What solution do you use please?
You are unbelievable Ryan! And Mirai is such a huge favor to rest of world with limited knowledge & resources about Bonsai! Cant thank you enough sir! Fantastic!!
I've always wanted to hear an in depth discussion on soil particles, particle size, and how it relates to the development of trees both above and below the soil level. This is it. Thank you very much.
This video vindicates me. I live in Minnesota and have been involved with bonsai for more than 50 years a grow red cedars (Juniperus virginiana) because they grow in abundance here. They do very well on the high ground, especially around limestone outcroppings. Many of the so-called 'experts' say they are worthless for bonsai and often tell newbies the wrong soil mix according to this video and Ryan Neil. Now I understand why they don't do well with red cedars and I do.
As someone living in a small town in Portugal, where very few people have this interest and everything seems to be so hard to get my hands on, from trees, to pots, to soil... your videos have been really interesting and educational. You go way beyond the usual care guides of "prune here in the spring", "repot every two years", "water when the top looks and feels dry", and actually go out of your way to teach in a way that is so easy to understand but also while actually explaining why things work the way they do, and why this is nature in a small container, depending on our care and interpretation and knowledge to live and thrive. I have only been going at Bonsai for a few months, but I can already tell that I am addicted for life, and you are a reference for me. Keep up the great work.
Make sure to visit Portugal and the Azores islands, I'm sure you'll find fascinating stuff here.
Hello. So its been six whole years since you left this comment. I wonder was it true thus far.... addicted for life? Are you still doing bonsai? Starting to get a nice little collection with some more established trees now you did yourself? Or perhaps you went nuts with it and your whole house anf yard are full of pots and seedilings and etc rtc . :)
@@iamshredder3587 haha. well, I have had ups and downs, but have always kept at least a handfull of trees. Have learned a lot about where I live as well, and what trees tend to do well or not naturally. Always warm, never have cold seasons, lots of rain, lots of little bugs...etc etc. So I have had a "crazy run" where I had a lot of trees (and I mean trees, not bonsai - was triying to turn them into bonsai). And now I recently moved and have 5 bonsai, which I pay a lot of attention to.
Again, if I lived elsewhere, with more access, I am certain I would have more. But not only am I in a little town, but also I am on an island. So I can't really order a lot of stuff in, especially stuff that might not travel well.
@vitorcruz271 - ah I wasn't actually expecting a reply to this after four years lol. But glad you did. :) And glad you're still chasing your interest in. Even casually with a few plants which is 100% perfectly ok too, don't think you have to be a professional or go crazy and devote your whole life and all your time to it and have to know everything about everything and more than the next guy and have several of every tree on earth or elde you're not a real bonsai guy or whatever lol. I do see that quite abit, especially relative noobs that are just starting to gain some knowledge and skills etc. For me i like it as hobby and interest I can enjoy over the years and decades and at different paces. Sometimes I have a big period of inspiration and go buying and making new material and such. Sometimes I get bored and barely touch what I have. Which can end up doing the trees good too. Just letting grow out and get strong and thicken up and all without messing with them sometimes is a good thing imho.
Anyway long as you're enjoying it and learning and getting something positive out if it.
I understand your dilemma about location and the difficulties in sourcing all your materials , in learning and converting what most standard books and videos teach to do and when to do it etc to a much different environment and often different plants.
I'm currently at my semi-rural 100 acre estate in central Queensland, Australia. And everything is all back to front and upside down and inside out in Australia. Including the trees and how they grow compared to USA where I was born. (Dual citizen. With a beautiful fiancee from Armenia so house and lot of connections to too. )
Everything , especially the people!
(Settle down fellas
Crikey mate, im just pulling ya leg ya wombat! Maaaaattte!!!
Translation: "my dear aussie friends and neighbours. Do pardon my friendly bantor, I intended thee no offense.
Anyway yes it's been alot harder to source stuff here or find others into it that I haven't spread the bug to myself. Hard to get help or advice Sometimes if have problems. But technology and the internet help alot.
Idk how much you've truedbut I'd say don't discount ordering trees and stuff online altogether and keep it a possibility. I've found in recent years there's become alot more available for delivery alot easier , prices are getting much better, and sellers are getting much better at shipping even larger and quite advanced trees out to long distances and decent periods with a good consistent success rate and guarantees. Indeed some of if not most of my best new trees of recent years have been ordered online and shipped to my po box. . It may might not be viable on your island and all but, keep checking .
Anyway surely there must be quite a good selection of both native and exotic material in the Azore Islands no?
Isn't there even a saying like "anything and everything grows in the Azores"?
All the rich volcanic soil and sunshine. Winter and spring rains and sunny but gebtle summers yeah?
I cant remember but, isnt it famous for its beautiful hydrangeas adorning the homes and roads and such? Or perhaps it was camellias?
And don't you even have a native juniper that's endemic to the area? Well as blueberries, raspberries, all kinds of things I onky wish would grow here in qld. :)
I'm just a little suprised youd have that much troubke there, but I don't know it wel.
I actually been considering visiting there for a holiday. My beautiful fuancees suggestion. she seems To think it's basically paradise on earth. .:))
Anyway good luck , enjoy your trees, and who knows...I may even see you around somet8me
@@iamshredder3587 yes, many things do very well here indeed. It is a matter of picking the trees well. Have had trouble with a few I would enjoy growing, namely that require more of a cold season, etc. But it is what it is :)
these videos are the closest I can come to an apprenticeship. Thank you guys so much for spreading this knowledge on a free platform.
Your videos are always informative, and educational and very helpful! Thank you! Big fan!
Excellent teaching,have to catch up on this great teaching site,
Awesome video, love the triangular pot!
I like your teaching approach, very foundational, artistically empowering and mind broadening...
Does Mirai have info on soil ratios for the different species, every green?, deciduous you have said only akadama, shimpaku junipers?, single flush pines in know you have said 1/3, 1/3, 1/3, double flush pines? I appreciate your intelligent info and approach to Bonsai, very limited to the masses here in Australia, eventhough we have some very talented people as alot of the clubs are drive by people with personalitydisorders 😊. I have been involved in Bonsai here for almost 30 years, and in that time have learnt more in the last 2 years watching your RUclips productions, thankyou to you and your team.
Hi Ryan i think Chabasai its the brand of the product that is a type of zeolite called cabazite that its used for cat litter, pool filters and aquarium filters and its really cheap (compared to akadama)... the thing with other types of zeolite is that it desintegrates with water but i imagine chabazite not cause how would it be that sensitive for water if it is used un pool filters. 25 bucks for 25 kilos (its heavy so its not as much as it sounds).
Shin part at X1.5 Speed is Awesome :)
Thx for all these good explanations
So good!! Thanks Ryan and team!
So much great information!! thanks so mutch from Spain!
Love how the guest mic drops when ryan points out the importance of exchange balance
Excellent video and information. Love it minute.
If I had the choice I would have chosen the shallow container... There is something about seeing a big strong tree growing healthy, even though it "appears" to not have much of a root system... Also thank you for posting these lessons here on RUclips... I'm a new to bonsai and I am learning a ton of good information from you...👍🏻👍🏻
for those badmouthing Ryan for talking to much or to fast i say listen faster. he is the best
@Wilfred "I Tapped Dat Ass" Kensington speed of speaking / listening correlates with IQ of native speakers
@Wilfred "I Tapped Dat Ass" Kensington high IQ people speak faster and can understand other fast speakers (in general). They also tend to have faster physical reaction times.
i am crazy in love with that spruce!
Ryan, what a great discussion on soils for bonsais. thank you so much for sharing with us
I have not yet practiced bonsai, but have been intrigued since high school. I have been reading, watching, and otherwise researching every aspect of bonsai over the years and have seen and heard many different practices for repotting. I have seen a lot of people bare root every time they repot. However those trees, as beautiful as they appear, have no shin and I could only imagine that bare rooting the tree (2-8 years) adds unnecessary stress to an already restricted root system. So my question is, does the tree need the shin for the refinement bonsai strives to achieve, and does bare rooting the tree at every repot have detrimental affects in the long run? And one more thing, if Akadama can't be used for juniper, what soil mix is recommended?
So, basically, 1/16 to 1/4 inch diatomaceous earth. Go to AutoZone, get some Napa oil spill powder and sift out the fine particles.
Never bare root
Organic fertilizer is actually usually neutral in charge. It isn't water soluble and for NPK to be released, it needs to decompose. For example, amino acids would decompose and generate NH3 gas, which can dissolve in water and become NH4+ which the plant can take up and use.
If you have a chemical fertilizer, you could have something like Ammonium nitrate (NH4NO3), and that will dissolve in water as charged particles. They would wash away with water if they don't stick to your soil particles.
So it seems Ryan has it backwards.
Also some plants need microflora to live also to decompose the fertiliser so liquid Chemical fertiliser no bacteria no healthy tree
@@alessandromassimo5717 Bacteria also eat chemical fertilizer.
Awesome! Thanks Ryan.
thoroughly enjoyed, love how informative these are, you describe every detail kinda like a math problem and that's damn hard to find! also since it got brought up and I obsessed researching it for a while last year, heres a long reply about granite: In regards to the granite in the soil, crushed granite is one of the main sources of potassium i believe. while potassium's necessity in crop yield is known, its use for bonsai shouldn't be overlooked. Firstly, it's involved in more plant functions than any other soil element, including transportation, signaling, activation, expansion, acceleration, and regulation of various plant functions to name a few. Secondly, its the element directly related with cambial width, vessel size and production of wood, creating that great trunk. this along with the facts that its involved in most processes of growth , and is always the lesser ingredient in bonsai fertilizer, makes it arguable that granite soil could be fairly beneficial. since turgor pressure regulation is also one of its tasks, I'm sure theres some way for a tree to access the potassium locked inside lol
A lot of bonsai practice became clear to me since the core of your lessons is bonsai tree physiology.
Can you recommend me literature that treats this kind of stuff especially for bonsai or even better could you write a book on this matter?
love to see good long talks on bonsai. I like how the shallower sculpture pot has that stair step in front that starts your eyes at the bottom, leads you in, and the tree follows in that direction.
thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing all your knowledge..!
I took soil science at the U of M yrs ago and Ryan talked about it, talked around it, but never mentioned the term "surface tension of water" in the relation of particles in the soil. I thought it ironic that he went into the long detailed explanation of the advantages of akadama and then brings out a beautiful natural literali Colorado Blue Spruce with a compact root system that obviously never saw akadama.in its soil, and at 41:22 of the video mentioned that people spend lots of money to obtain akadama when we have other alternatives for it but never mentioned what those alternatives might be.
Where I live in SE Minnesota and there is an abundance on red cedars (juniper virginia) growing here mainly in areas where there is exposed limestone in the driftless areas and I have over 50+ yrs of bonsai successfully grown beautiful red cedars as bonsai w/o ever used akadama in any of my soil mixes.
Could you share your soil mix? I don't have access to akadama or diatomacious earth. I just have regular garden center soil componets like vermiculite, perlite, gravel, dirt, bark, etc.
Charcoal has the ability to bind negative ions very easily as it has two covalent bonds available to it (two and four).
Amazing information !!
Amazing! Thank you for this!
So what do you use for junipers then? Never answered it
I've just discovered your channel and have found it all to be very informative. The question I have is, where do I find diatomaceous earth in any other form other than powder? I have looked online and everything I am finding is a pesticide or a food grade powder to add to food or something. Thank you for the better understanding of Akadama and why Turface will not work.
You can sometimes find it at Tractor Supply in the horse section to absorb odors.
Check auto parts stores. Usually sold as an oil absorbent.
Thx for this video..
i make my own mix since 5 yrs... 50% akadama..the other part is split between perlite, pine bark, gravel and lava...depends on the tree, its root system and the level of refinement its in..
I have a problem with granite-based soils. I recently purchased horticultural grit based on granite and, typically, many particles were coated with pyrite. When this decomposes it will produce sulphuric acid (sorry, I'm British), sulfuric acid. It's hard to understand how that can be good for any tree. Pure granite is quartz (will never decompose), feldspar (will decompose to a clay called kaolinite and Muscovite (mica). All relatively benign - but granite is rarely pure. Very much enjoyed the video.
I'm going to try chabasai for my bonsai as Akadama is to hard to get in northern bc Canada. Thank you for the informative and insightful presentation.
I added charcoal as a medium to help adsorb nutrients that would otherwise be more easily able to pass through the soil and end up in the yard. I'll keep tabs on my progress and see if it gives me any good luck. I associated it with being similar to a very hard and lightweight chemical sponge.
Regarding comments on the use of Ag Charcoal, Would BioChar (Terra Petra) be of value to bonsai soil?
What is the "Chabuzai" (? spelling) that you mentioned you got from Montreal? Also, what product do you use for Diatomaceous Earth? Is it Floor Dry from Napa Auto? Thanks.
I think the correct spelling is chabasai. It is available at acbonsai.com or from the Montreal Bonsai club.
what i read about Charcoal that it has high cation exchange capacity CEC it Improve Soil Quality adding charcoal to soil may provide more benefits for long-term soil quality than compost or manure charcoal improving air circulation and increasing the soil's ability to retain water and nutrients
Hi substitute for akadama for common junipers???
Awesome, thanks for this information, priceless!!!
Simply the Best!
Very interesting :) learned a lot
any thoughts on expanded shale?
Newcomer here. Can you show each tool used, please
In Quebec some granite of greenish color are known for phosphor release and others of pinkish color for iron.
great video, watch your channel a lot, keep it up.
a question I sometimes hear people say that you always have to make sure that everything about the same guy has to be big.
for example: akadama 3-5mm. in combination with 1-2mm zeolite is not don, because you always have to use the same grain size.
what do you think?
GREAT CLASS THANKS!
I've used charcoal it just works as substrate retains water, releases water that's all the health of the tree it's in the feeding
Can you forward me the link to the reporting video you mentioned at the beginning of this video? I thought you said Nursery Stock Series Pt. 4 but it is not coming up. Great information. It has greatly improved my Bonsai knowledge and practice. Thank you
I think you have to pay for that one.
ok thank you Alex
With potentially harmful particles in water, is it better to water with high purity deionized water vs other water?
Boon Manakitivipart uses some charcoal and his soil. And the roots on his trees are very nice
Where can i finde the nursery stock series pt. 4?
so is diatomite good for bonsai or not, should we use 100% diatomite, mix it, not use it, what ?
ok is the spruce for sale?
Why shouldnt you let akadama touch your juniper?- what if its a mixture of akadama, pumice, lava rock etc..
Masterclass
Ocupamos que se vean los subtitulos en español. Agradeceremos nos los concedas.
Fascinating
The cheapest Diatomaceous earth I found is a pool filter media. Is that ok to use? Or do you know a less expensive source of DE?
bonsaijoe1 O'Reilly auto parts sells an absorbant I believe it's called Opti sorb. It is DE and is around 15 bucks for a forty pound bag. The partical size is consistent and very little unusable product. It works fine for me, and I don't have to buy it online like I would akadama, pumice, or expanded shale.
Eric Brown Great!! Thank you
Eric Brown Do you mix the DE with anything else or just use that alone? I'm unclear from Ryan's video. Thanks
Me: buys two 50lb bags of turface. Turns on YT.
Ryan: Turface is useless
Me: womp womp
Do Stewartias respond to root cuttings?
Did I miss when he listed substitutions for Akadama?
Diatomaceous earth
alex colon I wonder if you could use small fragments from a broken terra-cotta pot, if there is one lying around. Terra-cotta is baked and will hold up for a while.
What about zeolite 4 years later
Thank you
What is the name of the sculptor in LA? I can't find on internet.
Thanks so much. I thought you said Donovan and that just wasn't getting me anywhere. :) One more question, in this demo Ryan mentions another vid on soils as part of his Nursery Stock Series (Part 4) but I can't find it either on RUclips or as part of Mirai Live (I'm Tier 1). How can I get access to it? Thanks.
@@groovygranny5565 Someone else said that's a pay video 😞
Interesting, informative ... but confusing, or adding to confusion about right/wrong soil components. For example, I read glowing reports from people growing bonsai in turface-based soils which Ryan totally dismisses. Whom to believe?!
Bonsai practiced for hundreds years in Japan, where he studied. Everything else is just trying and experimenting
does anyone have any ideas on where i can get diatematious earth in canada? most of the ones i find are in powdered form
Charcoal has surface area.. which stores nutrients
I think pink crushed granite has potassium but not sure if it can be fixed by the biology of tha soil.
When did 'they' drop the neutrality of the pH scale to 6.5?
Actually it hasn't. 7 is still neutral, even Wiki agrees on that (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH). Now it so happens that most plants like a slightly acidic soil, pH 6.0 to 6.5 (same wiki page, section 'pH in soil'). To my understanding pH 6.0 to 6.5 is the range where mineral elements are the easiest available to most plants, thus their "liking" of slightly acidic soil and (rain) water. Any chemist around to explain why slightly acidic makes minerals easier available?
@@maximinix you need like a 15 pages master thesis to explain that, but it’s true. There are a lot of things involved
“This is the night club - after hours!”
akadama vs biochar?
Anyone know of a place to get cheap soil online?
BonsaiJack.com
Looking at this site he uses turface in his pre-mixed. Ryan has strong opinions on turface
Im going to look so smart if i just remember 10% of this Master Class"
I copy the transcript into a document, and keep a notebook with my bonsai books.
Can I use 100% diatomaceous earth?
Maybe this article can help you: walter-pall-bonsai.blogspot.com/2010/06/feeding-substrate-and-watering-english.html. According to Walter Pall you can use whatever substrate that suits your climate, needs of the tree, and time you can spend checking and watering.
As Ryan always tells: “What are you trying to accomplish?”. I’d extent that thought to: “What has the substrate to accomplish for your tree, in your climate and with your schedule”.
The best advice: find someone in your area that grows bonsai in diatomaceous earth. If you can’t, make your own tests on cheap trees. What is the longest time span you can go without watering in the hottest and/or driest days of the year. Say you can water your tree only once every 24 hours and your tree needs water every 6 hours in ditomaceous earth where you live, then 100% diatomaceous earth is a no go… unless you like dead trees.
Also think of times when you have someone else to water your trees. If you leave for a 2 weeks vacation and the person who comes to care for your trees knows nothing more than “pour a ton of water once every day on the trees” then your substrate must provide enough water to the trees for that treatment, even in full summer. Most likely you will have to check every day of the 50 remaining weeks to avoid over-watering… but everything comes at a price. Besides checking means you enjoy the trees 350 days a year, not the worst trade.
Hope this helps on choosing the substrate that will rock for you.
subbed
Weird to see this gradeschool-like teaching for these elder folks...
Uhm !!! That's his style. Not my preference either but he's very informative at least
If he changed his style of teaching these wouldn't be so long.
I actually really enjoy his teaching style. He is trying to make you think about WHY and not just WHAT but I can see how others might find it patronizing.
And thank baby Jesus for that 😇
You can't call bonsai growing medium soil. Soil by definition has organic matter, and bonsai growing mediums don't.
Wow nice UKULELE ATLANTA HOLLY BLOE BONSAI CLUB
Very informative presentation, but I would be annoyed working with this dude.
6 years in Japan, pronounces bonsai as 'bone say' ._.
does anyone know if Ryan is single?
He has a wife I believe.
@@apexbonsai1159 oh great.........
$700 blue pot = LOL!
He’s my boyfriend.
which soil you use is basically not important, how to water properly is way more
Is this actually a RUclips channel for the Mirai school in California or is it like a wanna be
Ryan just talks too much. He needs to be simplify. I think Ryan may have a touch of Mania and/or OCD.
It's just called being a massive nerd, and it's inspiring.
yeah, too many syllables. it's a feature of someone thinking they sound more academic by saying utilize instead of use, facilitate instead of help etc.
but it is forgivable for someone trained as a bonsai grower not public speaker who wants to share
Take Orwell's advice
www.orwell.ru/library/essays/politics/english/e_polit
PRETENTIOUS DICTION. Words like phenomenon, element, individual (as noun), objective, categorical, effective, virtual, basic, primary, promote, constitute, exhibit, exploit, utilize, eliminate, liquidate, are used to dress up a simple statement and give an air of scientific impartiality to biased judgements.
Hard to take this guy seriously regarding bonsai. I'm not here for a motivational business proposal pitch meeting seminar or whatever he's on about. 🤪
What about zeolite 3 years later