In an effort to avoid duplicate comments, please read this comment first. Cost, plans, and other details can be found in the video description - you may have to expand it first by hitting the '...more' link. No I did not use footings, but I reccomend that you use concrete footings or screw piles. I did not use footings based on the reccomendation of a local builder who informed me that many of the cottages in the same area do not use footings and they have been fine for decades. The ground was undistrubed and it is almost entirely sand and rock - with very little clay. Also, I wanted to build before the ground was thawed out - so I didn't have a choice. I plan to put some 60" screw piles on each corner to provide some protection against lift - but I can't imagine that this will be a problem unless I get a direct hit from a tornado or hurricane - in which case I will have bigger problems. After two winters everything is still level and square.
thanks for this update, I never thought that it would be a worry either, it's not hard to put a shim here and there if it moves. I will be building my own A frame this coming summer, and follow your plans, it's a great cottage from all angles. my foundation will be cedar posts set in the ground four feet deep, and this has been done for a hundred years already.
@@davetrotter258 good luck with your build! I would love to see a photo when you are done. Another viewer already sent me a photo of their aframe build this year in Alaska using the same plans.
Thanks Bob. With the black roof I was worried about condensation, especially in the Spring and Fall, so I figured the safest thing to do was use normal attic venting all the way up the entire roof. With the 2x8 trusses I still had (barely) room for regular 2x6 mineral wool insulation and the vents. I had no idea how to provide the venting at the bottom of the roof, but I think what I did should work fine. The 1/8" hardware cloth should keep any bugs or critters out. In the winter the entire area around the base of the house will be covered with snow, but I think there will still be adequate venting considering how much space there is under the cabin.
Amazing. I wouldn't think that much work could be done so quickly. What a beautiful job. You certainly spent many hours on the planning process and the amount of product you needed so it was ready as you needed it without any waiting. (Beautiful location too, right on the water. Very nice indeed.)
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction The effort showed. Hope you were able to enjoy the A-frame the last few months during the summer/fall. Fantastic location by the water.
Thanks. I just made drawings on graph paper based on the design in the book (link in description). I did scan them in, and I have just added a link in the description - hopefully it works.
Thank you for uploading and including the scans of the drawings, I even bought a copy of the book you mentioned! I have sub'd hoping for an update video on the A frame!
Great video Graig and really helpful for me. Thanks. My son's small house burnt down recently and I plan on building an A-Frame similar to the one you put up this summer. I live up in the Yukon so I'll follow your plan / and the info from the Cottage book, but I plan on filling the roof channels completely with the rock wool insulation, add 2" of foam board on the outside then strap in vertically and horizontally so there can be air flow under the metal roof. I think that should work? I'll have to check with the building inspectors too.
Thanks, and sorry to hear about your son's house. Your roof insulation plan should increase the r-value quite a bit and also prevent thermal bridging through the trusses. The only small concern is that my roof manufacturer told me that they no longer reccomend using strapping for their metal roof products. This used to be what everyone did though, and I don't understand why it is a problem. I helped build a cottage with a large metal roof 25 years ago and the metal was screwed to strapping and it has been fine through a lot of crazy hot summers and freezing cold, snowy winters. I suppose one concern would be that the strapping might be exposed to a lot of moisture at certain times of the year. Still, if you have good venting - that shouldn't be an issue.
@@CraigNakamotoConstructionThanks Craig! I'm thinking the walls should be about R38 which would be good for this climate. I'll check with the local suppliers for the metal roof / strapping issue. Appreciate the heads up!
Glad you liked it. The vents are basically the same as attic vents. They allow air to flow under the roof from under the floor to the peak of the roof and out the vented roof cap. Normally the air would flow through the soffits and up through the vents - so this is the same thing except that the soffits are under the cottage. This helps prevent condensation caused by the temperature differential outside and inside the metal roof. There will still be condensation at times, but it will be easily dried off, and if there is enough to drip, it could drip all the way down to the ground.
Craig one day I will build my own A frame house. Its been my dream ever since I first laid eyes on one. I have no construction experience but with videos like yours I can gathering as much information I can. Thank you for sharing such awesome information. FYI love your drawings 🙂
no construction experience that's why. you should rent one out and try living in one for an extended period its a bad design created by the lowest common denominator.
I did not make very much progress this summer, but I did mostly finish the interior walls. I was going to wait until I get out again and actually make some decent progress.
Actually, I did say 2x10 once in the video and have not figured out how to fix that. The three beams are triple 2x10s, but the sadwiched floor joists (bottom of the triangles) are just 2x6 boards. So tops of the triangles are 2x8x20 and they are sandwhiched on the bottom by two 2x6x20 boards for each triangle.
Any interest in selling off a tiny piece of your land? I’m a student in bedford with family in tantallon and I’m looking for some inexpensive land to escape the rent crisis here. Hope to hear back :)
I built this exact model myself. If you have a tall extension ladder you can use a pulley to get the sheathing up from the ground. It goes really fast.
Hello Craig, thank you for the excellent video. I would love to have a description of the tools you used and their brand. Looking forward to another video from you. Best
Thanks! Apart from basic non-powered hand tools, I used a cordless M18 Milwaukee drill, driver, circular saw, and framing nailer. The Milwaukee gear worked really well, there is a photo of all the tools I used at the beginning of the video. I have several large batteries and I never had any issues working all day. Just had to charge all the batteries at night, and keep swapping them out on the charger during the day. The framing nailer is a game-changer for getting things done fast - but it is heavy. Many builders will not believe that all the cuts were made with a cordless circular saw, but the latest cordless saws are amazing and I didn't have anything else with me.
Fantastic video! Thank you for sharing your plans and progress. Do you have any issues with the pads being on the top of the soil instead of below the frost line? No buckling or sagging! Thanks. God bless!
Thanks and you are welcome. No problems with buckling or sagging yet. We built on frozen ground in April but we were back in August and everything still looked good. I will post another update next year and will include any details then. I think it really depends on your soil composition and how much you disturb the topsoil. It is mostly sand and rock where we built, so the drainage is excellent. Of course, it is always better to put in proper foundations below the frost line.
A bed upstairs for the winter, a bed downstairs for the summer. Use the sides under the roof triangle for all your storage needs to shove up everything to the left and right side. All wood exposed on the outside I'd paint with Urethane, regardless if it's pressure treated or not. The wood on the inside you could varnish over with a spray gun, to give it a nice warm glow. That's what we did in my log cabin over the particle board. Wear a respirator of course, it's a sticky mess until dry, but boy does it look fantastic.
Thanks, yes we started coating the exterior and will coat it all. I am planning to leave the inside as bare wood. It is all spruce and I don't mind the look for now.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Thanks for the reply! That would mean your joists aren't PT either eh? Makes sense as everything looks quite above the soil. How tall are the posts approximately? Fellow east coaster here! NB
Great video Craig, I’m in construction and the amount of work you did in 11 days was awesome. How did you fasten the bottom of the rafter/floor joist to the triple? Good luck on finishing your project and looking forward to the next video..
Thanks! The bottom of the triangles are toe-nailed in to the beams and I used hurricane ties to attach many of them to all three beams. Not particularly useful considering that the beams are not secured to any kind of fixed foundation piers or anchors. I may add some ground screw anchors to prevent lift - although I am fairly certain that the location is very protected from wind. The cliff facing the ocean pushes all of the wind up and over the aframe. From the south the aframe is protected by a large hill and forest. Most of the days when I was there in the spring we had some crazy wind off the ocean and, at the aframe, you could hear it howling through the tops of the trees, but none at ground level.
i love this style of building. do you think it would be possible to build if you were alone? i dont have friends. do you have to deal with building inspections?
You could build an a-frame this size with just one person. You would just have to create some kind of system to raise the triangles, and you would have to avoid the big triangular windows at the top of the end walls - or just use smaller windows. Those were the only parts of the job that required two people. Other tasks were easier with two people, but manageable with one. There is no reason you couldn't use some ropes and a hand winch to raise the triangles by yourself.
Thanks for making this video! Love the design , I'm going to mimic and build on my property. How did you attach the triangles to the 3 floor beams? I'm currently working on building plans to obtain a building permit.
Thanks and you're welcome. The triangles are skew nailed in to the beams at the bottom corners from the outside and then I used hurricane ties to further secure the triangles to the beams. www.homedepot.ca/product/simpson-strong-tie-h2-5a-18-gauge-zmax-galvanized-hurricane-tie/1000152530
Been trying to find a A-frame build for months finally came on on yours. Love it. Plan to start building very soon. First question wall venting is that in every 2 foot space or just one on each side down the middle ? Very cool!! Download your sketches too
Hi Craig I’ve decided to insulate on the exterior side and vent after my layers of ploly insulation and membrane. Have 5 more triangles to put up yet. Slow process one guy
Great video. I know it’s like code to allow air in at the bottom of the roof and allow air ti flow out the top, but why? Mold? All that insulation and now we have to let cold air go thru the roof/walls? I might put 1/2” standoffs all the way up between the joists and use foam board on the standoffs. There’s a 1” pocket for the air to go through or, I might wait until after inspection and then stop the air flow. Haha
Thanks! Proper ventilation is not just for code. It is very important and complicated. You can have all sorts of problems if you don't manage water. Mold and rot are a huge pain to deal with later. I think the easiest way to avoid this issue is to use spray foam on the backside of the roofing. This was not an option for me because I was doing my best to stay with natiural materials. Every house is different though, it depends on your local environment. In this case, the ventilation will really help keep the house cooler in the summer (because the black roof will get very hot in the sun and all the hot air, and potentially condensation, on the underside of the roof will rise up through the vents) but in the winter it will reduce the same warmth from helping to keep the house warm. I did lose 2" of possible insulation, but the knowledge that any condensation would have an easy exit path and the cooling effect in the summer outweighed that for my case.
I just went out again and everything is still nice and level. Probably need to wait a few years to see if it really stays that way though. I built when the ground was frozen solid (beginning of April), and now it is August and the ground has been thawed for three months and there has been plenty of rain.
Hi - awesome video, thanks! You said the end walls are not load bearing but you still put in header's for the windows (and maybe door?). Why did you do that if they are not load bearing?
Thanks and you are welcome. My friend Frankie was helping on those two days, and he was already finished the first two window openings before I even thought about it. He is an experienced builder and frames walls in his sleep. That is one part of the project I did not plan out, because they are just regular walls. I do not know what the code states for non-load bearing exterior walls - maybe you still need to do all of that. It certainly will not hurt.
Enjoyed the video. I always ask people why an A frame though and never get a good answer. To me it's half the volume of a rectangle house given the same foundation, and you get awkward wall angles. Is it cheaper or faster to build maybe?
I think it is easier to build, faster to build (the roof takes care of two exterior walls), and it is a very strong design - much stronger than a rectangular build. I don't think it is much cheaper to build considering the useable square footage. However, I think the real answer is that an a frame has a very different look and feel - and some people like that. The angles are awkward but beautiful.
Cheaper, faster, more structurally sounds, half the space to heat. Also just because the outside is aframe shaped doesn't mean you cant create areas of flat Walls through framing. Overall I think it's just a personal preference some people don't like the cookie cutter look especially when in nature.
Yes, really should have a proper foundation with footings that go below the frost line. Yes, I figured I can adjust it if needed. FIrst summer, and it is still level.
Right now I don't have much time. I made it out last month and we finished the paneling in the interior and put some wood preservative on the outside siding. I also installed a pump and an outdoor kitchen, but I didn't even have time to work on trim or anything else. Probably won't have time to really work on the project until next spring.
Reasons I did not put in a proper foundation: the ground was frozen when I had the opportunity to build, I hate concrete, the cabin is completely sheltered from the wind off the ocean, and there are a lot of cottages and cabins in the same area that are built the same way I did it and they are fine. I wanted to use screw piles, but I could not use them in the frozen ground (I verified with the manufacturer). I am planning to put some screw piles in this year.
(1) How are the triangles secured to the outer beams? I see what look like hurricane ties for the center beam, but nothing for the outer beams. (2) Are the cross supports underneath flexed around each other? This seems to put stress on the screws and could lead to cracking later on.
The bottom corners of the triangles are nailed to the beams and there are supposed to be hurricane ties on each side as well, but I didn't put them on every triangle. The cross supports are not flexed around each other - there was no reason to do that. If I was doing it again, I would definitely put hurricane ties on both sides of every triangle.
what if water leaks in the floor insulation? what would you think about 1/2" hardware cloth (metal screen, in stead of plywood)? was it 1/2" ply underside and 3/4" on top? thanks great video!
Thanks, yes it was 1/2" ply on the underside and 3/4" on the floor, and 5/8" on the roof. Hardware cloth should work too, not sure what the cost difference would be. I think the 1/4" hardware cloth I used for the vents was pretty expensive. Easier because you could just staple it on. Right now, if water did leak into the floor from above, there is nothing to stop it from flowing through and out the bottom at all edges of the 1/4" plywood, and through the 1/4" hardware cloth roof vents along each side of the aframe - which should help dry out any moisture in the floor insulation (since it is a continuous run from side to side (vent to vent).
Can you use roofing battens on top of the Tyvek and then fix the roofing sheets to that so there is airflow rather than have the ventilation design you use here? I'm not saying there is anything wrong with it. However, I am about to build my first A fame and have used the batten method before on other builds and it works well so I'm just more comfortable sticking to a method I know. Is there a reason you did it the way you did here that I should be aware of?
The previous metal roofs that I have installed were also on battens, but according to the roofing manufacturer, they no longer recommend the use of battens with metal roofs. That is why I did it the way I did it. In this case, the metal roofing sheets were only about 10" wide, so I would have had to have a batten every 10" along the entire roof - which is a lot. I can't imagine it is an issue either way. You would need the battens to be vertical, otherwise the condensation could pool on the battens.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Thanks for the Reply Craig I really appreciate you taking the time. I've been building garden rooms so fairly small structures with verticle walls and using double battens with the ones on the Tyvek running vertically and then another set running horizontally on top of them (this way the cables can be run outside). taking that into account the 10" spacing would not be an issue and there would be no pooling of condensation either. However, I think your method looks like less work and might even be cheaper. Can you tell me how it has been performing and are there any issues? also, did you come up with this method yourself or does it have a name / is there somewhere I can read more about it? Once again thank you for your time and I really like your build!
@@quizkraftstudio You're welcome. The baffles I used are what you often find in attics under the roof. Just google 'attic baffles' for tons of info. SInce the "roof" of an aframe runs all the way to the ground, the only novel idea I had was to add screeneed vents under the cottage that provide air in to the baffles. It is just the same thing you would do on a conventional roof, but you would have soffit vents along the bottom. Based on all of my research, nothing beats a ridge vent. I have not spent enough time out at my aframe to let you know how it is performing, but I will be there all of July and then I will post an update.
Foundation is 20 feet by 30 feet (inside floor dimensions are 20 x 20 + 8 foot deck on front and 2 foot deck on back) and cost is in the video description.
Just to see if i got it right: - The 3 longitudinal beams are double 2x10s? - The base of the triangle is double 2x6s with a spacer? - The side of the triangle is a 2x8 sandwiched between the base?
I really appreciate you sharing your build experience. I am looking for a buildable design for my South Carolina property. Amazing progress for 16 days of effort! I will have the same air travel challenge with the tools. Did you submit plans for the build? How rigorous was the process for the self build plans being approved?
I don't know how it works in the US. Here in Canada it is based on your municipality. Where I live the permit process is long, painful, and expensive. Where I built this aframe; however, there are no bylaws so it is much simpler. You still have to comply with the national building code, but as long as your plans have been reviewed by a structural engineer it is pretty simple and cheap. It depends entirely on what the rules and practices are in your jurisdiction. I talked to the building inspector and some local trades people before I started to get the details.
I only have some worksheets, but no final material list. It was just under $40k (I just added up all my credit card costs - see breakdown in description) in Nova Scotia, probably a bit chepaer in Ontario (I live in Ontario). The materials depend heavily on what you want and where you can buy them. For example, I couldn't get 20 foot lengths of 2x6 and 2x8 boards for the triangles, but in most of Ontario you can. Makes the build much easier. You will probably want to use a local company for windows and the roof. Most people will not want to use rough milled lumber for siding either. Also I used plywood for everything, and most people would use OSB - a lot cheaper. I also purchased very expensive doors - $760+tax which were unnecessary - but I that is what I wanted. If you have basic carpentry skills this is a relatively easy project. The book in the description explains most of the details.
Very good video. You have a good voice for narration and whoever put the video together did a great job. Not sure if you’re a carpenter by trade, but if you aren’t you should be. You and your friends did in 2 weeks what I’ve been doing for 2 years. 😂😂😂
I am not sure what you mean by the floor system. The floor in this build is just 3/4" plywood screwed down to the 2x6 joists. The double 2x6 joists are the bottoms of the triangles. There is also 1/2" plywood screwed to the bottom of the joists and there is insulation in between.
I don't think we have anything to worry about. The erosion is very gradual (based on the last 20 years) and the cottage is more than 100 feet from the edge. Also, the cottage is not portable.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction I have a place on Lake Erie, near Chatham. The bluffs usually erode a couple of feet per year. The last four year, with high water, we have seen ten feet per year. I installed a steel retaining wall and lifted my place four feet. We could move your beautiful cottage in a day. You have nothing to worry about. I'm looking forward to your next video.
Thanks Stephen - good to know. I have thought about the best way to tackle the erosion. My current idea is to build some terraces and plant trees, shrubs, and gardens on them. A lot of work though...
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction you're on the right track. Grasses work wonders. The best thing would be two jetties, they're perfect for accumulation of sand
It is quicker and easier to build, and able to handle heavier snow loads with less lumber. I don't think there is a stronger design than the simple triangle.
In an effort to avoid duplicate comments, please read this comment first. Cost, plans, and other details can be found in the video description - you may have to expand it first by hitting the '...more' link. No I did not use footings, but I reccomend that you use concrete footings or screw piles. I did not use footings based on the reccomendation of a local builder who informed me that many of the cottages in the same area do not use footings and they have been fine for decades. The ground was undistrubed and it is almost entirely sand and rock - with very little clay. Also, I wanted to build before the ground was thawed out - so I didn't have a choice. I plan to put some 60" screw piles on each corner to provide some protection against lift - but I can't imagine that this will be a problem unless I get a direct hit from a tornado or hurricane - in which case I will have bigger problems. After two winters everything is still level and square.
thanks for this update, I never thought that it would be a worry either, it's not hard to put a shim here and there if it moves. I will be building my own A frame this coming summer, and follow your plans, it's a great cottage from all angles. my foundation will be cedar posts set in the ground four feet deep, and this has been done for a hundred years already.
@@davetrotter258 good luck with your build! I would love to see a photo when you are done. Another viewer already sent me a photo of their aframe build this year in Alaska using the same plans.
Nice and simple, but most importantly, it looks cost-effective. I ❤️ it! Great job
Thank you! 😊
This will be the build towards my mortgage free life. I already have the land. Thank you so much for posting the video.
You’re welcome!
My sentiments exactly! This is my current journey! Just cleared the land.
Do you know how helpful these videos and details are?? Thanks for taking the time to post this!!!!!!
Thanks, glad it helps! I am almost ready to post my second video with all the latest work on our a-frame.
Great video. Love it!
Thanks
This is amazing, great work and thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you! Cheers!
Fantastic Job, great narration.
Thank you
Absolutely excellent video, and build as well. So much great info. The roof vent system interests me. I look forward to your next video.
Thanks Bob. With the black roof I was worried about condensation, especially in the Spring and Fall, so I figured the safest thing to do was use normal attic venting all the way up the entire roof. With the 2x8 trusses I still had (barely) room for regular 2x6 mineral wool insulation and the vents. I had no idea how to provide the venting at the bottom of the roof, but I think what I did should work fine. The 1/8" hardware cloth should keep any bugs or critters out. In the winter the entire area around the base of the house will be covered with snow, but I think there will still be adequate venting considering how much space there is under the cabin.
Awesome much gratitude for sharing this 🙏
Excellent work, and I mean on both the build and the video you put together as well. Thank you.
Thanks! and you're welcome.
Amazing. I wouldn't think that much work could be done so quickly. What a beautiful job. You certainly spent many hours on the planning process and the amount of product you needed so it was ready as you needed it without any waiting. (Beautiful location too, right on the water. Very nice indeed.)
Thank you. Yes, I spent much more time designing, planning, and arranging materials and delivery than building.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction The effort showed. Hope you were able to enjoy the A-frame the last few months during the summer/fall. Fantastic location by the water.
16:45 to 9@@CraigNakamotoConstruction7707>0i>>⁸80i0ii
If no one else has said it. Welcome to the Island , Love to video, beautiful work!
Thanks! Glad you liked the video.
I really like when you build the loft , it does looks beautiful and cozy , Great channel .
Thank you very much!
Nice job Craig, and by the way thanks for making this video minus any music.
Glad you liked it!
Simple and very useful, and oh what a view and location. Jealous, please enjoy.
Thank you, I will
I drive through Victoria County almost every day, and never seem to tire of its beauty, and St. Anns is even more special. Nice job.
Thanks, yes it is beautiful.
Thank you for putting this together.
You're welcome!
Amazing!! This is so inspiring, thank you for sharing
Thanks and you're welcome.
love the "presentation" style tutorial. very nice project...would be great to have access to plans. Nice to have friends helping out as well.
Thanks. I just made drawings on graph paper based on the design in the book (link in description). I did scan them in, and I have just added a link in the description - hopefully it works.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction thank you
Very nice, loving the build looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks 👍
Great job, I love A frames.
Thanks!
The music and the zoom out shot with the drone to show the water was amazing
Amazing work!!
Thanks!
Thank you for uploading and including the scans of the drawings, I even bought a copy of the book you mentioned! I have sub'd hoping for an update video on the A frame!
You're welcome, I am working on part #2 right now!
Fantastic work!!! Congratulations!
Thanks!
That looks really nice 👍🇨🇦
Thank you
Yes sa mighty fine work
thanks
Very impressive!!
Thanks!
I envy northern construction guys! Those guys can work in any conditions!
There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.
Nice work! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video
Thanks!
Great work I'm a fan thanks for sharing
Thanks and you're welcome!
Nice! Great work. I would love to build an A frame some day
Thanks!
Great vision. Good execution!
Thanks
Amazing video & a great resource for information. Bravo
Glad it was helpful!
Nice work
Thanks
Thanks for sharpening. Awesome project.
Thanks for watching!
Very nice house... quick build... enjoy.
Thank you!
Very nice sir!
Thanks!
Cool build!
Great video Graig and really helpful for me. Thanks. My son's small house burnt down recently and I plan on building an A-Frame similar to the one you put up this summer. I live up in the Yukon so I'll follow your plan / and the info from the Cottage book, but I plan on filling the roof channels completely with the rock wool insulation, add 2" of foam board on the outside then strap in vertically and horizontally so there can be air flow under the metal roof. I think that should work? I'll have to check with the building inspectors too.
Thanks, and sorry to hear about your son's house. Your roof insulation plan should increase the r-value quite a bit and also prevent thermal bridging through the trusses. The only small concern is that my roof manufacturer told me that they no longer reccomend using strapping for their metal roof products. This used to be what everyone did though, and I don't understand why it is a problem. I helped build a cottage with a large metal roof 25 years ago and the metal was screwed to strapping and it has been fine through a lot of crazy hot summers and freezing cold, snowy winters. I suppose one concern would be that the strapping might be exposed to a lot of moisture at certain times of the year. Still, if you have good venting - that shouldn't be an issue.
@@CraigNakamotoConstructionThanks Craig! I'm thinking the walls should be about R38 which would be good for this climate. I'll check with the local suppliers for the metal roof / strapping issue. Appreciate the heads up!
Amazing work!
Amazing the scan of the plans!
I would love to understand better the vents that you talk about!
Thanks for documenting this project!
Glad you liked it. The vents are basically the same as attic vents. They allow air to flow under the roof from under the floor to the peak of the roof and out the vented roof cap. Normally the air would flow through the soffits and up through the vents - so this is the same thing except that the soffits are under the cottage. This helps prevent condensation caused by the temperature differential outside and inside the metal roof. There will still be condensation at times, but it will be easily dried off, and if there is enough to drip, it could drip all the way down to the ground.
Great video , looks like my neigbborhood. Blackrock. Im going to build this
Thanks! Good luck on your build. Rona in North Sydney was great.
Good job, well down and thank you
Thanks Herb
Beautiful job Craig. I believe they sell mesh to prevent rodents. Stainless Steel Woven Wire 5 Mesh
Thanks. I used 1/4" hardware cloth which is galavanized steel I think. Very sturdy and small enough to prevent most insects as well.
Craig one day I will build my own A frame house. Its been my dream ever since I first laid eyes on one. I have no construction experience but with videos like yours I can gathering as much information I can. Thank you for sharing such awesome information. FYI love your drawings 🙂
Thanks!
no construction experience that's why. you should rent one out and try living in one for an extended period its a bad design created by the lowest common denominator.
Not cleared out. It is cleared ooooouuut ...your in Canada. Love the video and snow.
Thank you
I am a new follower(Nr:2111) of your channel Greetings from Türkiye.😊
Thanks, enjoy!
Great job. It’s very difficult working under those time constraints. Great job recording as well!
Thank you
Well done
Thank you
Real nice cabin plenty of room
Thanks!
De lujo gracias por compartir Arquitecto ❤
You're welcome
I and everybody else would love to see how you completed the interior over the past summer.
I did not make very much progress this summer, but I did mostly finish the interior walls. I was going to wait until I get out again and actually make some decent progress.
Very cool. I wanna build one as well
Thanks
Awesome... Impressive build in 11 days.... Q: how did you find the land to build on? beautiful ocean or big lake view...
Thanks! The land was gifted to us - so we didn't have to find it.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Happy for you.. The sweetest gift...
Very good very nice
Thanks!
Excellent, so the bottom of the aframe is a 2×10 acting as floor joists sitting directly on the beams?
Actually, I did say 2x10 once in the video and have not figured out how to fix that. The three beams are triple 2x10s, but the sadwiched floor joists (bottom of the triangles) are just 2x6 boards. So tops of the triangles are 2x8x20 and they are sandwhiched on the bottom by two 2x6x20 boards for each triangle.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Yes, I saw that upon closer watching of the video. I hope you make more videos showing the completion of the build!👍
Beautiful!
Thank you!
This is fantastic! I'd love to build something like this (or have it built) on our 26 acres by Peggy's Cove.
Thanks, that sounds like a great location too!
Any interest in selling off a tiny piece of your land? I’m a student in bedford with family in tantallon and I’m looking for some inexpensive land to escape the rent crisis here. Hope to hear back :)
@@PistonPerspective I bet you could get 27 Big Lake Drive for about $40k. It’s been listed for a few months now. Less than 30 min from Halifax.
Shouldn't we call it an eh frame? I mean, this is Canada ...eh?
😂 I’m dying
Lol stupid
@@questadillaI'm sorry
😂😂😂
😂
I built this exact model myself. If you have a tall extension ladder you can use a pulley to get the sheathing up from the ground. It goes really fast.
Cool, I hope yours turned out as well (or better) then mine! Good tip about the pulley, I hadn't thought of that.
Hello Craig, thank you for the excellent video. I would love to have a description of the tools you used and their brand. Looking forward to another video from you. Best
Also thank you for sharing the book you used.
Thanks! Apart from basic non-powered hand tools, I used a cordless M18 Milwaukee drill, driver, circular saw, and framing nailer. The Milwaukee gear worked really well, there is a photo of all the tools I used at the beginning of the video. I have several large batteries and I never had any issues working all day. Just had to charge all the batteries at night, and keep swapping them out on the charger during the day. The framing nailer is a game-changer for getting things done fast - but it is heavy. Many builders will not believe that all the cuts were made with a cordless circular saw, but the latest cordless saws are amazing and I didn't have anything else with me.
Fantastic video! Thank you for sharing your plans and progress. Do you have any issues with the pads being on the top of the soil instead of below the frost line? No buckling or sagging! Thanks. God bless!
Thanks and you are welcome. No problems with buckling or sagging yet. We built on frozen ground in April but we were back in August and everything still looked good. I will post another update next year and will include any details then. I think it really depends on your soil composition and how much you disturb the topsoil. It is mostly sand and rock where we built, so the drainage is excellent. Of course, it is always better to put in proper foundations below the frost line.
Very cool!! 👋😎👍
Thanks 👍
Great job!!
Thanks!
Лучшее и подробное видео, благодарю вас
пожалуйста
A bed upstairs for the winter, a bed downstairs for the summer.
Use the sides under the roof triangle for all your storage needs to shove up everything to the left and right side.
All wood exposed on the outside I'd paint with Urethane, regardless if it's pressure treated or not.
The wood on the inside you could varnish over with a spray gun, to give it a nice warm glow. That's what we did in my log cabin over the particle board. Wear a respirator of course, it's a sticky mess until dry, but boy does it look fantastic.
ruclips.net/video/VC-4kaYf0HY/видео.html
Thanks, yes we started coating the exterior and will coat it all. I am planning to leave the inside as bare wood. It is all spruce and I don't mind the look for now.
Awesome
Thanks
Was the plywood on the underside of the floor pressure treated? Great build ive watched this vid so many times! Very helpful for my little project.
No, the plywood on the underside is just regular 1/2" spruce plywood. It should never (or very rarely) get wet.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Thanks for the reply! That would mean your joists aren't PT either eh? Makes sense as everything looks quite above the soil. How tall are the posts approximately? Fellow east coaster here! NB
Just the beams and posts are PT, nothing else. The ground is not flat here, so the posts all vary in height from about 10" to 20".@@mikeland495
That's a Cape Breton spring alright.
Great video Craig, I’m in construction and the amount of work you did in 11 days was awesome. How did you fasten the bottom of the rafter/floor joist to the triple? Good luck on finishing your project and looking forward to the next video..
Thanks! The bottom of the triangles are toe-nailed in to the beams and I used hurricane ties to attach many of them to all three beams. Not particularly useful considering that the beams are not secured to any kind of fixed foundation piers or anchors. I may add some ground screw anchors to prevent lift - although I am fairly certain that the location is very protected from wind. The cliff facing the ocean pushes all of the wind up and over the aframe. From the south the aframe is protected by a large hill and forest. Most of the days when I was there in the spring we had some crazy wind off the ocean and, at the aframe, you could hear it howling through the tops of the trees, but none at ground level.
i love this style of building. do you think it would be possible to build if you were alone? i dont have friends. do you have to deal with building inspections?
You could build an a-frame this size with just one person. You would just have to create some kind of system to raise the triangles, and you would have to avoid the big triangular windows at the top of the end walls - or just use smaller windows. Those were the only parts of the job that required two people. Other tasks were easier with two people, but manageable with one. There is no reason you couldn't use some ropes and a hand winch to raise the triangles by yourself.
Thanks for making this video! Love the design , I'm going to mimic and build on my property. How did you attach the triangles to the 3 floor beams? I'm currently working on building plans to obtain a building permit.
Thanks and you're welcome. The triangles are skew nailed in to the beams at the bottom corners from the outside and then I used hurricane ties to further secure the triangles to the beams. www.homedepot.ca/product/simpson-strong-tie-h2-5a-18-gauge-zmax-galvanized-hurricane-tie/1000152530
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Excellent, Thanks !
Welcome home bye ! 😊
Thanks
Been trying to find a A-frame build for months finally came on on yours. Love it. Plan to start building very soon.
First question wall venting is that in every 2 foot space or just one on each side down the middle ?
Very cool!!
Download your sketches too
Never mind I think I found it as I was scrolling down
Venting is along the entire roof, every two foot space - even over the deck.
Hi Craig I’ve decided to insulate on the exterior side and vent after my layers of ploly insulation and membrane. Have 5 more triangles to put up yet.
Slow process one guy
Great video. I know it’s like code to allow air in at the bottom of the roof and allow air ti flow out the top, but why? Mold? All that insulation and now we have to let cold air go thru the roof/walls? I might put 1/2” standoffs all the way up between the joists and use foam board on the standoffs. There’s a 1” pocket for the air to go through or, I might wait until after inspection and then stop the air flow. Haha
Thanks! Proper ventilation is not just for code. It is very important and complicated. You can have all sorts of problems if you don't manage water. Mold and rot are a huge pain to deal with later. I think the easiest way to avoid this issue is to use spray foam on the backside of the roofing. This was not an option for me because I was doing my best to stay with natiural materials. Every house is different though, it depends on your local environment. In this case, the ventilation will really help keep the house cooler in the summer (because the black roof will get very hot in the sun and all the hot air, and potentially condensation, on the underside of the roof will rise up through the vents) but in the winter it will reduce the same warmth from helping to keep the house warm. I did lose 2" of possible insulation, but the knowledge that any condensation would have an easy exit path and the cooling effect in the summer outweighed that for my case.
Let us know if this shifts and twists, just in case others might want to attempt something similar. Best of luck! Cheers.
Will do!
I just went out again and everything is still nice and level. Probably need to wait a few years to see if it really stays that way though. I built when the ground was frozen solid (beginning of April), and now it is August and the ground has been thawed for three months and there has been plenty of rain.
Hi - awesome video, thanks! You said the end walls are not load bearing but you still put in header's for the windows (and maybe door?). Why did you do that if they are not load bearing?
Thanks and you are welcome. My friend Frankie was helping on those two days, and he was already finished the first two window openings before I even thought about it. He is an experienced builder and frames walls in his sleep. That is one part of the project I did not plan out, because they are just regular walls. I do not know what the code states for non-load bearing exterior walls - maybe you still need to do all of that. It certainly will not hurt.
Enjoyed the video. I always ask people why an A frame though and never get a good answer. To me it's half the volume of a rectangle house given the same foundation, and you get awkward wall angles. Is it cheaper or faster to build maybe?
I think it is easier to build, faster to build (the roof takes care of two exterior walls), and it is a very strong design - much stronger than a rectangular build. I don't think it is much cheaper to build considering the useable square footage. However, I think the real answer is that an a frame has a very different look and feel - and some people like that. The angles are awkward but beautiful.
There is no good answer. Some people just like them, despite their drawbacks.
You never have to worry about snow building up on your roof in a Northern climate either.
Cheaper, faster, more structurally sounds, half the space to heat. Also just because the outside is aframe shaped doesn't mean you cant create areas of flat Walls through framing. Overall I think it's just a personal preference some people don't like the cookie cutter look especially when in nature.
I would think you need to dig to hard pan to avoid uneven settlement? I guess you can jack it up and put better support in only if required?
Yes, really should have a proper foundation with footings that go below the frost line. Yes, I figured I can adjust it if needed. FIrst summer, and it is still level.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Isn't that required by code?
Probably, but it may depend on the soil type.@@jimmydoo
how's the A frame coming along? Hope to see more videos soon
Right now I don't have much time. I made it out last month and we finished the paneling in the interior and put some wood preservative on the outside siding. I also installed a pump and an outdoor kitchen, but I didn't even have time to work on trim or anything else. Probably won't have time to really work on the project until next spring.
No sunk posts for the foundation? I'm only at 2:29 so you might explain why later, but curious about the design decision.
Reasons I did not put in a proper foundation: the ground was frozen when I had the opportunity to build, I hate concrete, the cabin is completely sheltered from the wind off the ocean, and there are a lot of cottages and cabins in the same area that are built the same way I did it and they are fine. I wanted to use screw piles, but I could not use them in the frozen ground (I verified with the manufacturer). I am planning to put some screw piles in this year.
(1) How are the triangles secured to the outer beams? I see what look like hurricane ties for the center beam, but nothing for the outer beams. (2) Are the cross supports underneath flexed around each other? This seems to put stress on the screws and could lead to cracking later on.
The bottom corners of the triangles are nailed to the beams and there are supposed to be hurricane ties on each side as well, but I didn't put them on every triangle. The cross supports are not flexed around each other - there was no reason to do that. If I was doing it again, I would definitely put hurricane ties on both sides of every triangle.
what if water leaks in the floor insulation? what would you think about 1/2" hardware cloth (metal screen, in stead of plywood)? was it 1/2" ply underside and 3/4" on top? thanks great video!
Thanks, yes it was 1/2" ply on the underside and 3/4" on the floor, and 5/8" on the roof. Hardware cloth should work too, not sure what the cost difference would be. I think the 1/4" hardware cloth I used for the vents was pretty expensive. Easier because you could just staple it on. Right now, if water did leak into the floor from above, there is nothing to stop it from flowing through and out the bottom at all edges of the 1/4" plywood, and through the 1/4" hardware cloth roof vents along each side of the aframe - which should help dry out any moisture in the floor insulation (since it is a continuous run from side to side (vent to vent).
Can you use roofing battens on top of the Tyvek and then fix the roofing sheets to that so there is airflow rather than have the ventilation design you use here? I'm not saying there is anything wrong with it. However, I am about to build my first A fame and have used the batten method before on other builds and it works well so I'm just more comfortable sticking to a method I know. Is there a reason you did it the way you did here that I should be aware of?
The previous metal roofs that I have installed were also on battens, but according to the roofing manufacturer, they no longer recommend the use of battens with metal roofs. That is why I did it the way I did it. In this case, the metal roofing sheets were only about 10" wide, so I would have had to have a batten every 10" along the entire roof - which is a lot. I can't imagine it is an issue either way. You would need the battens to be vertical, otherwise the condensation could pool on the battens.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction Thanks for the Reply Craig I really appreciate you taking the time. I've been building garden rooms so fairly small structures with verticle walls and using double battens with the ones on the Tyvek running vertically and then another set running horizontally on top of them (this way the cables can be run outside). taking that into account the 10" spacing would not be an issue and there would be no pooling of condensation either.
However, I think your method looks like less work and might even be cheaper. Can you tell me how it has been performing and are there any issues? also, did you come up with this method yourself or does it have a name / is there somewhere I can read more about it?
Once again thank you for your time and I really like your build!
@@quizkraftstudio You're welcome. The baffles I used are what you often find in attics under the roof. Just google 'attic baffles' for tons of info. SInce the "roof" of an aframe runs all the way to the ground, the only novel idea I had was to add screeneed vents under the cottage that provide air in to the baffles. It is just the same thing you would do on a conventional roof, but you would have soffit vents along the bottom. Based on all of my research, nothing beats a ridge vent. I have not spent enough time out at my aframe to let you know how it is performing, but I will be there all of July and then I will post an update.
Every tool is a weapon for us builders, and every house is a work of art.we are prefabricated houses factory in China,hope we will have cooperation.🎉
do you have plans for the build you could share? Cape Breton is beautiful, love the black roof choice.
See the description for details.
Great video. Can you give me an idea of the cost of the material? Plus what are the foundation / floor dimensions
Foundation is 20 feet by 30 feet (inside floor dimensions are 20 x 20 + 8 foot deck on front and 2 foot deck on back) and cost is in the video description.
Just to see if i got it right:
- The 3 longitudinal beams are double 2x10s?
- The base of the triangle is double 2x6s with a spacer?
- The side of the triangle is a 2x8 sandwiched between the base?
Correct, except that the 30 foot beams are actually made of tripled pressure treated 2x10 boards.
I really appreciate you sharing your build experience. I am looking for a buildable design for my South Carolina property. Amazing progress for 16 days of effort! I will have the same air travel challenge with the tools. Did you submit plans for the build? How rigorous was the process for the self build plans being approved?
I don't know how it works in the US. Here in Canada it is based on your municipality. Where I live the permit process is long, painful, and expensive. Where I built this aframe; however, there are no bylaws so it is much simpler. You still have to comply with the national building code, but as long as your plans have been reviewed by a structural engineer it is pretty simple and cheap. It depends entirely on what the rules and practices are in your jurisdiction. I talked to the building inspector and some local trades people before I started to get the details.
Nice build currently working on planning my build where did you get your standing seam roof ?? Thanks
Thanks, BML Metals in Margaree, NS: www.bmlmetals.com/
Amazing, do you have a material cost list and all in cost... would love to do this project somewhere in Ontario..
I only have some worksheets, but no final material list. It was just under $40k (I just added up all my credit card costs - see breakdown in description) in Nova Scotia, probably a bit chepaer in Ontario (I live in Ontario). The materials depend heavily on what you want and where you can buy them. For example, I couldn't get 20 foot lengths of 2x6 and 2x8 boards for the triangles, but in most of Ontario you can. Makes the build much easier. You will probably want to use a local company for windows and the roof. Most people will not want to use rough milled lumber for siding either. Also I used plywood for everything, and most people would use OSB - a lot cheaper. I also purchased very expensive doors - $760+tax which were unnecessary - but I that is what I wanted. If you have basic carpentry skills this is a relatively easy project. The book in the description explains most of the details.
Very good video. You have a good voice for narration and whoever put the video together did a great job.
Not sure if you’re a carpenter by trade, but if you aren’t you should be. You and your friends did in 2 weeks what I’ve been doing for 2 years. 😂😂😂
Thanks for your kind words. Carpentry is a hobby for me - but I really enjoy it.
What did you use to combine the triangles at the peaks? Is that just a 3/4" plywood or OSB nailed to the rafters?
The rafters are combined at the top with two 3/4" plywood triangles that are screwed and glued.
How does the floor system work? Maybe I missed it but I didn’t see you bolt it down.
I am not sure what you mean by the floor system. The floor in this build is just 3/4" plywood screwed down to the 2x6 joists. The double 2x6 joists are the bottoms of the triangles. There is also 1/2" plywood screwed to the bottom of the joists and there is insulation in between.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction ahhh, That’s it! Basically I was asking what keeps the house attached to the foundation?
@@ElWilkins_ the ends of the triangles are nailed in to the beams and there are hurricane ties along the beams and joists as well.
Good thing that that cottage is portable, with the looks of that eroding bluff
I don't think we have anything to worry about. The erosion is very gradual (based on the last 20 years) and the cottage is more than 100 feet from the edge. Also, the cottage is not portable.
The little twinkling lights are not twinkling Clark” Christmas Vacation.
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction I have a place on Lake Erie, near Chatham. The bluffs usually erode a couple of feet per year. The last four year, with high water, we have seen ten feet per year.
I installed a steel retaining wall and lifted my place four feet.
We could move your beautiful cottage in a day. You have nothing to worry about. I'm looking forward to your next video.
Thanks Stephen - good to know. I have thought about the best way to tackle the erosion. My current idea is to build some terraces and plant trees, shrubs, and gardens on them. A lot of work though...
@@CraigNakamotoConstruction you're on the right track. Grasses work wonders.
The best thing would be two jetties, they're perfect for accumulation of sand
Wow, excellent work and it looks amazing, what did the total cost of everything come to after?
See video description for cost breakdown
Очень крутой участок)
Thanks, yes it is pretty cool.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of your 400 sq ft A frame vs traditional house/garage framing with a truss roof to handle heavy snow loads ?
It is quicker and easier to build, and able to handle heavier snow loads with less lumber. I don't think there is a stronger design than the simple triangle.