You’re right about the rubber “rag joint” connecting the steering shaft to the steering box. I remember that rag joint could easily heat up and tear out upon hard cornering, leaving you in a very dangerous position going very fast with suddenly no steering. Very important modification going to a U-Joint setup on the steering shaft. You don’t necessarily know that unless you’ve been in a pretty bad spot due to part failure!
This video is super old, but by far the most impressive GT6 build I've found. Do you still have the car? If so, can you do a part 3 on the car showing off the rest of it? I'd love to see the interior and the rear suspension setup as I'm sure you have some goodies back there. Cheers!
I worked on and drove a GT6 with a Buick V8 once. The owner did the conversion in the 70's. The V8 just barley fits with no hood modification. He often destroyed the rear differentials until he stopped driving it so hard. Make sure to get rid of the original rear outer stub axles if your car is rotoflex. I think the aluminum pillow blocks mounting the rack are fine on the street, I have them on my street GT6. Our motor is not solid mounted, though it should be. Good luck with the project!
Love your calm voice in describing all the goodies. Very entertaining. I've learned a ton about race tricks. I'm looking to get a GT6 in the next week to build around a NOS 215 Buick engine I recently found. I'd like to bring all these tips to my GT8 build. Why didn't you do Derlin on the rack? I'm sure the Aluminum would never work on the street and only cause stress, cracks and maybe even some breakage. Thoughts? Also are the motor and trans solid mounted as well?
@lewiar If your system is free of air, you have no leaks, and the brakes are adjusted properly then there are only two things that cause a soft pedal. Problem 1: the master cylinder bore is too small to provide enough fluid to the calipers and slaves. Another thing that can cause a soft pedal is if the mechanical adjusters on the rear brakes are not set properly. Adjust them up so that the drum starts to drag then back off one or two clicks (depending on Word limit? 500 characters ah?
Are the remote oil filter and aluminium cartridge filter adapter block off the shelf components I could buy? And was your accusump using the manual valve or epc valve, and if the latter, what pressure valve was it, 20-25 psi?
The remote oil filter can easily be had from a place like Summit racing or Pegasus, not sure where you would get the block flow control. I think the valve was electric, not sure of the exact pressure. I do not own this car anymore.
@@Porsche9elfer Ah thanks for the info. I've been trying to find something like that plate that bolts into the original oil filter location forever, but have had no luck. So when I rewatched your video and saw yours I thought I'd ask. How's the porsche coming along?
@@praetorious That block plate I found at a race car "flea market" back in 99 at mid-ohio race track. I would think that some of the performance Triumph outfits in England would make something like it. The P911 is stalled, been working on an XK120. You have a GT6?
@@Porsche9elfer Will have to check some of their websites. Yes, I've got a MK2. I'd like to fit an accusump to it and a remote spin on oil filter. I've bought a full PI system from the UK and am having that rebuilt so I can install it on my GT6.
@@praetorious Unless you are racing the car an Accusump is a fairly well useless thing to have, even if you are racing the car it is still a bit of a gimick, unless you are planning to be up on a high bank oval for a long time at high G. I would rather have a well baffled and enlarged oil pan for road racing. Why is there one on this yellow car? it was not my decision. Just an example how a person can be convinced to spend a ton of money on ridiculous "racing" stuff they do not need at all. The stock oil filter is just fine, even for a race car. I would spend a lot of time on the oil pan though and other more important things than an Accusumps.
I no longer own this car however I still keep in touch with the current owner. I don't think it is for sale, but $ talks, it is a well developed car and would not be inexpensive . . .
Oil feed to rocker shaft, very BAD idea as it reduces oil pressure to the front main bearings of the crankshaft, and floods the valve cover with oil than goes down the valve guides and gets burned off as smoke.
You’re right about the rubber “rag joint” connecting the steering shaft to the steering box. I remember that rag joint could easily heat up and tear out upon hard cornering, leaving you in a very dangerous position going very fast with suddenly no steering. Very important modification going to a U-Joint setup on the steering shaft. You don’t necessarily know that unless you’ve been in a pretty bad spot due to part failure!
Again, that stiffener bar is a GREAT idea
This video is super old, but by far the most impressive GT6 build I've found. Do you still have the car? If so, can you do a part 3 on the car showing off the rest of it? I'd love to see the interior and the rear suspension setup as I'm sure you have some goodies back there. Cheers!
I worked on and drove a GT6 with a Buick V8 once. The owner did the conversion in the 70's. The V8 just barley fits with no hood modification. He often destroyed the rear differentials until he stopped driving it so hard. Make sure to get rid of the original rear outer stub axles if your car is rotoflex. I think the aluminum pillow blocks mounting the rack are fine on the street, I have them on my street GT6. Our motor is not solid mounted, though it should be. Good luck with the project!
steering column joint GREAT
Very Nice, learned a lot, thank you. Great job with explanation of non-stock equipment. jim
You have the most soothing voice. Great vids!
Man, I wanna cruise that car...Looks fun.
Love your calm voice in describing all the goodies. Very entertaining. I've learned a ton about race tricks. I'm looking to get a GT6 in the next week to build around a NOS 215 Buick engine I recently found. I'd like to bring all these tips to my GT8 build. Why didn't you do Derlin on the rack? I'm sure the Aluminum would never work on the street and only cause stress, cracks and maybe even some breakage. Thoughts? Also are the motor and trans solid mounted as well?
Brake cooling very smart
plate below master cylinders, very good
@lewiar If your system is free of air, you have no leaks, and the brakes are adjusted properly then there are only two things that cause a soft pedal. Problem 1: the master cylinder bore is too small to provide enough fluid to the calipers and slaves.
Another thing that can cause a soft pedal is if the mechanical adjusters on the rear brakes are not set properly. Adjust them up so that the drum starts to drag then back off one or two clicks (depending
on Word limit? 500 characters ah?
Remote oil filter and accusump, very good for a race car
@Porsche9elfer What can i do to make my car last longer well without doing "to much"
Are the remote oil filter and aluminium cartridge filter adapter block off the shelf components I could buy? And was your accusump using the manual valve or epc valve, and if the latter, what pressure valve was it, 20-25 psi?
The remote oil filter can easily be had from a place like Summit racing or Pegasus, not sure where you would get the block flow control. I think the valve was electric, not sure of the exact pressure. I do not own this car anymore.
@@Porsche9elfer Ah thanks for the info. I've been trying to find something like that plate that bolts into the original oil filter location forever, but have had no luck. So when I rewatched your video and saw yours I thought I'd ask.
How's the porsche coming along?
@@praetorious That block plate I found at a race car "flea market" back in 99 at mid-ohio race track. I would think that some of the performance Triumph outfits in England would make something like it. The P911 is stalled, been working on an XK120. You have a GT6?
@@Porsche9elfer Will have to check some of their websites. Yes, I've got a MK2. I'd like to fit an accusump to it and a remote spin on oil filter.
I've bought a full PI system from the UK and am having that rebuilt so I can install it on my GT6.
@@praetorious Unless you are racing the car an Accusump is a fairly well useless thing to have, even if you are racing the car it is still a bit of a gimick, unless you are planning to be up on a high bank oval for a long time at high G. I would rather have a well baffled and enlarged oil pan for road racing. Why is there one on this yellow car? it was not my decision. Just an example how a person can be convinced to spend a ton of money on ridiculous "racing" stuff they do not need at all. The stock oil filter is just fine, even for a race car. I would spend a lot of time on the oil pan though and other more important things than an Accusumps.
Pics of the whole car?
For sale?
I no longer own this car however I still keep in touch with the current owner. I don't think it is for sale, but $ talks, it is a well developed car and would not be inexpensive . . .
Oil feed to rocker shaft, very BAD idea as it reduces oil pressure to the front main bearings of the crankshaft, and floods the valve cover with oil than goes down the valve guides and gets burned off as smoke.
@Porsche9elfer Hmm hell no!!! Never,
@lillskiten1337 To make your GT6 last longer without doing "too much" is easy. Sell it and put a down payment on a good used Mercedes Benz.
Absolutely..let’s have no imagination and be totally boring as well...