Really look forward to your videos they are always entertaining - this one is no exception! Can totally relate to your "brain fart" moment, however I'm looking forward to watching whatever solution you come up with. Keep on Roling!
OH man, bummer....Yup, I do that kind of stuff all the time....You are supposed to learn by your mistakes but when you are as old as me you don't remember anything and keep making the same mistakes over and over. You do not want to get old.
Hi there ! I used to have that very same lathe. Here is a suggestion for You: Have a thick fabric on the bottom of the gear compartment. It will absorb the ever present oil from the gears. When too oily, just throw it and put in a new one. I also noticed that You have adopted the habit of keeping the gear change tooling in the gear compartment. This proved to be a good idea. Why do You use a nyloc nut in the bayonett? Itmakes the gear change even more of an excersise. I also noticed that it is a good idea to have the thread configuration list (print with excel) glued with protection film on the backside of the gear housing door. At least my lathe had a very unreadable gear change list.
When you said about the absorbent cloth to catch oil drips it made me think about a mates printer. It's a pretty impressive professional photo printer made by Fujifilm. It's print quality is amazing, but consumables are ridiculously expensive. It uses 6 large ink cartridges and a "Purge cartridge". This purge cartridge costs about 40 quid on it's own, and it's just a container with absorbent material in it for waste ink to go into, So he how recycles them by cutting them open, taking out the old cloth wadding material and replacing it. He tried several different materials but found problems with most......... Until he nicked a couple of his wife's sanitary pads. :) Apparently, Once cut to the required size they drop in and do what they were designed to do perfectly (Absorb and hold liquid), and cost him nothing....... Well, They'll cost him nothing until his wife twigs where two of her pads are going every couple of months. LOL !
I feel for ya man. I did the same thing to the left handed nut on my cold saw. Buggered it up real good. Best of luck, I'll be waiting to see your solution.
Hey man, I can't throw stones about mixing up handedness of threads - I'm a licensed auto mechanic with almost 25 years experience and had a brain fart the other week trying to remove a right hand threaded fan hub from a truck thinking it was a left hand thread. Just made the stupid thing tighter.
Been there, done that, got the T-shirt & used it as a rag to clean up afterwards, so can I suggest you paint "LEFT HAND THREAD" inside the cover or by the pulleys as a permanent reminder, I have found it useful to put reminders on little used parts which may need attention long after I've forgotten how I did it last time.
For the repairs on the wood lathe, I think you have the right idea. Clean up the damaged thread to remove the preload nut. Then run a thread file over the thread to clean them up. Put the pulley on the lathe and turn it down and add a spacer to the same thickness you turned down the pulley.
I too get F***ed up with reverse threads,so now when I find them out comes my favourite marker pen and it get marked on-off with arrows.Also a small warding file would be better on the threads than a grinder.We all make stupid mistakes,but then get hours of extra fun putting it right.
By "Extra fun" I'm assuming you mean getting to play the inner monologue of "WTF ?!?!? I've had that damn machine apart a million times already, Why the hell didn't I remember it was a lefty on there? I should have realise it was a damn left handed thread as soon as it didn't budge. But noooooo, I had to keep cranking away at it until it finally stripped..... I'm such a fe*kin' idiot. Now I can't be getting on with what I WANT to be doing because I've got to spend hours fixing something that I've stupidly broke because I didn't read the signs AGAIN,.................. OK, Maybe it's not as bad as it looks? Yeah, It probably just LOOKS bad........ I'm sure if I clean the threads up with a file on this bit, like this. Then use a few packing washers to keep the nut on a less chewed up portion of thread, like this. And just tighten it down a little so that it OH FE*K !!!!! No. I really HAVE knackered it !!!! Outstanding fe*kin' workmanship there, moron !". Is that what you meant? :D
I used to forget that a handful of nuts on my machines were left hand threaded all the damn time. I once chewed the bearing preload threads clean off a spindle by trying to loosen a large LHT nut with an impact gun on a mates old pillar drill. In my defence, it was a pretty seriously piece of industrial machinery and rather than finding something to stand on (Read "fall off") so I could see what I was doing, I was dismantling the top end of it by feel. That little mistake put his drill out of action for an extra couple of weeks while I sourced a second hand replacment part to fix my cockup. Luckily, the reason for the strip down was to fix it after it had eaten a bearing, so it wasn't like I'd killed it. I'd just added to the problems list of an already broken machine. I now keep some lime green nail polish in my tool box (just one more piece of my ex's crap that she couldn't be bothered to take when she left) And a keyring UV "fake bank note detector" LED light. Whenever I encounter a left hand threaded nut I either degrease and sand one side of it and paint a few dots of nail polish on it, or if that's not an option, I paint a small arrow as close as I can that's pointing to the nut. This way I have a visual reminder that I need to stop and think about what I'm doing rather than blindly carrying on and breaking stuff. With the UV light it cures solid in about 60 seconds flat, so it doesn't even hold me up for the hours I'd need to wait for normal paint to harden. It's a simple trick that works well for me. Since I started doing this I haven't wasted any time wondering why a forgottenly left handed nut won't budge. :D
Fix that thread with a thread file. If you don't have thread file, you can do it with a triangular needle file - it has 60° angle. I wouldn't risk it with an angle grinder, with your luck you will chop it into two pieces.
Fu Qu, I was reading through the comments to see if some other person had suggested this method, yours is the first I found and you are spot on. That is the way I will fix this. Cheers from John, Australia.
If you can't get there with a file, I'd recommend using dremel with a small cut-off disc. You'll have much more contol over it than with a big, clunky angle grinder
Been there before. Just stand over a grievous error, long pause while you contemplate all the additional work, few select cuss words, look at it again, yep, still fucked up........proceed to disassemble cautiously because now you are actually being careful, hold parts in your hands, examine them closely, yep, still fucked up......another cuss word repeated 3 times in a row, look at the parts again, yep, still fucked up.......put the parts to the side in a safe place, a clear mind will prevail tomorrow.........come back to it at a later date after losing sleep over it, forget where the safe place was,.........yep, still fucked up. Repeat the cussing portions again while wandering around work area looking for the said parts and checking the same obvious places over and over again, because it just might appear.....yep, still fucked up.
Love the video Amigo!! Don't worry.... I know you'll fix it! I just made a left hand nut..... and yes, you guessed it. I needed a right hand thread. I blame covid head....
I shouldn't watch your videos just before bedtime. But I couldn't wait. Unfortunately a Dutch English nightmare is waiting ahead of me now. As is mentioned already by others I would also use a thread file or a triangular file at least before grinding the threads away with an angle grinder. God night.
Try a small triangle file before reaching for a angle grinder ,also once you get it apart chuck it in your Chinese lathe and fix the other thread with the same file
Bad luck with the wood lathe spindle. Could you turn a sleave for the pulley that would allow you to turn away all of the bad stuff your over tightening did? Also on your metal lathe have you considered the motor and powered screw upgrades clouf42 did to his cheap Chinese lathe, completely did away with the need for change gears and a gear box. I hope you find a solution to your wood lathe spindle and enjoy your content, take care D.
It's not needed to sleeve the pulley. Hopefully I only need to make some room so it will slide over the threads. I did consider a electric lead screw and bought a couple of different motors for it. It's on my list, but I prefer working with my vintage lathe.
Yeah buddy. I can still remember my first run in with Left Hand Threads . The rear axle bearing retainer nut on the drivers side of an MG Midget.. They are thin to begin with and about an inch and a half around. I wound up beating it to death using a flat edged chisel and a hammer until just for grins I decided to see if I could work it back and forth. As soon as I knocked it real good going back the other way it loosened up and I spun it off by hand. $32 for a new one and this was a very long time ago. So don't feel too bad. They had a saying back in the Old Country that my Grandfather taught me when I was very young. "Shit Happens". As usual, I am already looking forward to the next installment.
I will have to deal with it some day but I have not been in the old barn for a while not. I will try a file, but the threads have been pinched against each other pretty good.
Actually, if the threaded part of the spindle is not hardened, You could get away with a triangle shaped file. Then just, with some time, file the thread straight.
@@Rolingmetal I know it's hard to recover from, like you I would have too look at it and torcher myself,, but life goes on and tell yourself you can always get another spindle
Hahahahahahaha. I’m dying. Where the hell are you from man? I gotta know what language you think in so I can check out some translated books from your country and die laughing.
You CAN do that, Yeah. Or like me, you can have a 10 second tantrum at your own stupidity. :D Somewhere inside of the partition wall of my garage is still a broken 1/8" tap and a tapping handle that I flung 5 seconds after the tap broke flush inside of a part I'd spent days working on. It punched a neat 5x1.5" hole on the plasterboard about 6' up the wall, But didn't make it all the way through and fell down somewhere inside. After 2 days of pondering about ripping into the wall to get it back I just bought another small tap holder and a little bag of plaster to fix the hole. :D
Usually you just look up the bore size for a thread. No calculations required. That grove at the back is just clearance and could be anything. The pitch and the od should be all you need to determine what a thread is. Also only a really old lathe would have a 55 degree whitworth thread. Don’t worry that your pitch gauge says whitworth that is just the Chinese who don’t know what they are talking about. It should say TPI. 5 degrees is nothing on those little teeth. So first you need to determine what size thread you have. Any modern thread should fit some standard. The pitch is a great place to start and it looks 14tpi is what you have although your diameter of 29.7mm is not near any imperial size. Usually the outside diameter is a bit smaller than the nominal size of the thread. Hmmmm looking a bit like 30mm A quick google of standard spindle threads says 30mm uses a 1.5mm pitch. Did you put a 1.5mm pitch gauge against your thread? Also try a couple either side of that on your gauge. Although it does seem like 1.5mm is not that close to 14 tpi for you to make a mistake. Most 14 tpi threads I could find are 3/4 or 7/8 inches which is way smaller than what you have. This is just the first thing I came across that lists common spindle nose threads. store.gammazinken.net/Woodturning/How-to-measure-the-thread-of-a-chuck BTW A thread dial isn’t going to be that much use if you are cutting imperial threads with a metric lead screw. There are a few tricks for stopping in blind holes and picking up the same place as you back the tool out. Cutting towards the tail stock means you need to run the lathe backwards with the tool upside down. This can come with its own problems like not being able to get your tool on centre height or unscrewing your chuck if it is a screw on type. Those parts don’t look so damaged that you can’t save them. Remember we’re Machinists :) Sorry to see you clamping the shit out of that nut. Look on the bright side. You compound slide didn’t hit the chuck! Looking forward to the recovery video :)
I believe the spindle nose threads on this lathe were deliberately made non standard top sell more attachments. I'm no more than a wannabe Y.T. machinist :)
I feel fo r u in the fuckup, a suggestio too late is. On a left hand thread draw an arrow on the outside pully face. With undo to the left of the arrow. On a differnt topic, in the last vid u said you did nt have all the good gear abom has, maybe but u go something better i.e. a great sense of humour. Abom a good machinist but hes rather boreing away from machining, work is all hes got. You r far more interesting. Lookinf forward to seeu drag yourself out of the shit, kind regards henry
Yep, I should have marked that pulley, as other have suggested. Maybe Abom can come over and fix it for me, but will probably have to dot it myself and try to learn a thing or 2.
@@Rolingmetal no to the angle grinder. As others have suggested a small triangle file would be better. I forgot to mention it in my last comment. Looking forward to more bids ty.
I can completely empathise with you, having cranked the wrong way on left handed threads in the past. Agree with grinder. Good luck.
I seems we all have had our issues with LH treads :)
Awesome humor. Cheap ass 15w40. Let’s continue the shit show.
I think your honesty is wonderful. You just might have saved myself & others from a mistake. Thank you!
Really look forward to your videos they are always entertaining - this one is no exception! Can totally relate to your "brain fart" moment, however I'm looking forward to watching whatever solution you come up with. Keep on Roling!
That man, it's good to know there are a few people out there that like my little "shit show" :) Hopefully I can make a new episode for next week.
OH man, bummer....Yup, I do that kind of stuff all the time....You are supposed to learn by your mistakes but when you are as old as me you don't remember anything and keep making the same mistakes over and over. You do not want to get old.
My problem is miss placing tools and spending all my time looking for them.
I think it was Dave Allen who said "When friends tell me they never want to get old, I always reply I'm pretty sure it beats the alternative". :D
Getting old really sucks more that I ever though :)
Hi there !
I used to have that very same lathe. Here is a suggestion for You:
Have a thick fabric on the bottom of the gear compartment. It will absorb the ever present oil from the gears. When too oily, just throw it and put in a new one.
I also noticed that You have adopted the habit of keeping the gear change tooling in the gear compartment. This proved to be a good idea.
Why do You use a nyloc nut in the bayonett? Itmakes the gear change even more of an excersise.
I also noticed that it is a good idea to have the thread configuration list (print with excel) glued with protection film on the backside of the gear housing door. At least my lathe had a very unreadable gear change list.
When you said about the absorbent cloth to catch oil drips it made me think about a mates printer. It's a pretty impressive professional photo printer made by Fujifilm. It's print quality is amazing, but consumables are ridiculously expensive. It uses 6 large ink cartridges and a "Purge cartridge". This purge cartridge costs about 40 quid on it's own, and it's just a container with absorbent material in it for waste ink to go into, So he how recycles them by cutting them open, taking out the old cloth wadding material and replacing it. He tried several different materials but found problems with most......... Until he nicked a couple of his wife's sanitary pads. :)
Apparently, Once cut to the required size they drop in and do what they were designed to do perfectly (Absorb and hold liquid), and cost him nothing....... Well, They'll cost him nothing until his wife twigs where two of her pads are going every couple of months. LOL !
I think it needs a new paper gasket. But the input shaft got a bit messed up when on of the bearings died last year.
I feel for ya man. I did the same thing to the left handed nut on my cold saw. Buggered it up real good. Best of luck, I'll be waiting to see your solution.
It's material for another video :) But progress of that wooden bowl is rather slow :(
Hey man, I can't throw stones about mixing up handedness of threads - I'm a licensed auto mechanic with almost 25 years experience and had a brain fart the other week trying to remove a right hand threaded fan hub from a truck thinking it was a left hand thread. Just made the stupid thing tighter.
It’s good to see you again. For some reason I was not subscribed to the channel. Great video as always.
That kinda thing happened a few times to me as well. Might be an issue with RUclips. Anyway, welcome back :)
Good to see you back making video's . Cheers .
Hopefully Google will not decide to lock my account again.
Rant away. Confident that many would be happy to kick back and listen in as you did your thing 🤣
Been there, done that, got the T-shirt & used it as a rag to clean up afterwards, so can I suggest you paint "LEFT HAND THREAD" inside the cover or by the pulleys as a permanent reminder, I have found it useful to put reminders on little used parts which may need attention long after I've forgotten how I did it last time.
That has been suggested a few times now, hopefully I will take it to hard :)
For the repairs on the wood lathe, I think you have the right idea. Clean up the damaged thread to remove the preload nut. Then run a thread file over the thread to clean them up. Put the pulley on the lathe and turn it down and add a spacer to the same thickness you turned down the pulley.
It's still the best idea I got, hopefully it will work out. But for now I'm kinda done playing in the old barn.
I too get F***ed up with reverse threads,so now when I find them out comes my favourite marker pen and it get marked on-off with arrows.Also a small warding file would be better on the threads than a grinder.We all make stupid mistakes,but then get hours of extra fun putting it right.
By "Extra fun" I'm assuming you mean getting to play the inner monologue of "WTF ?!?!? I've had that damn machine apart a million times already, Why the hell didn't I remember it was a lefty on there? I should have realise it was a damn left handed thread as soon as it didn't budge. But noooooo, I had to keep cranking away at it until it finally stripped..... I'm such a fe*kin' idiot. Now I can't be getting on with what I WANT to be doing because I've got to spend hours fixing something that I've stupidly broke because I didn't read the signs AGAIN,.................. OK, Maybe it's not as bad as it looks? Yeah, It probably just LOOKS bad........ I'm sure if I clean the threads up with a file on this bit, like this. Then use a few packing washers to keep the nut on a less chewed up portion of thread, like this. And just tighten it down a little so that it OH FE*K !!!!! No. I really HAVE knackered it !!!! Outstanding fe*kin' workmanship there, moron !".
Is that what you meant? :D
Marking the pulley will be the first thing I do when I get back in the old barn.
I used to forget that a handful of nuts on my machines were left hand threaded all the damn time. I once chewed the bearing preload threads clean off a spindle by trying to loosen a large LHT nut with an impact gun on a mates old pillar drill. In my defence, it was a pretty seriously piece of industrial machinery and rather than finding something to stand on (Read "fall off") so I could see what I was doing, I was dismantling the top end of it by feel. That little mistake put his drill out of action for an extra couple of weeks while I sourced a second hand replacment part to fix my cockup. Luckily, the reason for the strip down was to fix it after it had eaten a bearing, so it wasn't like I'd killed it. I'd just added to the problems list of an already broken machine.
I now keep some lime green nail polish in my tool box (just one more piece of my ex's crap that she couldn't be bothered to take when she left) And a keyring UV "fake bank note detector" LED light. Whenever I encounter a left hand threaded nut I either degrease and sand one side of it and paint a few dots of nail polish on it, or if that's not an option, I paint a small arrow as close as I can that's pointing to the nut. This way I have a visual reminder that I need to stop and think about what I'm doing rather than blindly carrying on and breaking stuff. With the UV light it cures solid in about 60 seconds flat, so it doesn't even hold me up for the hours I'd need to wait for normal paint to harden.
It's a simple trick that works well for me. Since I started doing this I haven't wasted any time wondering why a forgottenly left handed nut won't budge. :D
LH threads are the worst. Years ago I messed up the nut on a bench grinder because I did not realise it was LH.
So glad I have a quick change gear box,
That sure would be nice. But a electric lead screw should also help.
Fix that thread with a thread file. If you don't have thread file, you can do it with a triangular needle file - it has 60° angle. I wouldn't risk it with an angle grinder, with your luck you will chop it into two pieces.
Fu Qu, I was reading through the comments to see if some other person had suggested this method, yours is the first I found and you are spot on. That is the way I will fix this. Cheers from John, Australia.
I'll try a file but the treads have been pinched hard, not a lot of room for a file
If you can't get there with a file, I'd recommend using dremel with a small cut-off disc. You'll have much more contol over it than with a big, clunky angle grinder
The spindle is kinda in the way of the body of the dremel, I checked
I use used motor oil for most of my steel cutting also. Seams as good as anything in my simple projects.
But it does help to use a little lube :)
@@Rolingmetal I don't know. I often go without anything withe my carbide insert tool. I think it likes it..lol
Me to, It gets messy with oil. But it does help when tapping.
Oh man, I can so feel your pain. Shit happens. You’ll get it fixed. More learning opportunities.
That's true, it's good for another "shit show" episode :)
Great video.
Been there before. Just stand over a grievous error, long pause while you contemplate all the additional work, few select cuss words, look at it again, yep, still fucked up........proceed to disassemble cautiously because now you are actually being careful, hold parts in your hands, examine them closely, yep, still fucked up......another cuss word repeated 3 times in a row, look at the parts again, yep, still fucked up.......put the parts to the side in a safe place, a clear mind will prevail tomorrow.........come back to it at a later date after losing sleep over it, forget where the safe place was,.........yep, still fucked up. Repeat the cussing portions again while wandering around work area looking for the said parts and checking the same obvious places over and over again, because it just might appear.....yep, still fucked up.
Some people say "It would be funny if it wasn't true", But that was true AND funny. :D
It's been a week and guess what..... I'm still fucked :)
Hello RM It happens to the best :) yes a grinder to fix the treds vould be my choise also, angle grinder or dremel, Thanks for the vid
Will probably need a pair of extra hand to spins the spindle while I careful try to grind that pinched portion away
We all have done that to lefthanded nuts at one time or other. It will be a better lathe when you get done.
God bless Stay safe
Judging by the coments, most people have had their issues with LH threads :)
It still suck big time, but if does make me a feel a little less stupid,
Love the video Amigo!! Don't worry.... I know you'll fix it! I just made a left hand nut..... and yes, you guessed it. I needed a right hand thread. I blame covid head....
I shouldn't watch your videos just before bedtime. But I couldn't wait. Unfortunately a Dutch English nightmare is waiting ahead of me now. As is mentioned already by others I would also use a thread file or a triangular file at least before grinding the threads away with an angle grinder. God night.
Sorry to hear that, but like you said, you know better :)
Try a small triangle file before reaching for a angle grinder ,also once you get it apart chuck it in your Chinese lathe and fix the other thread with the same file
They are pinched to close for a very small file. I will try but I'm afraid grinding will be my best option
Next week you can turn a new spindle on you metal lathe for the wood lathe,,, I like your honesty.
That will probably beyond my capabilities.
Bad luck.
My Bedford truck has Left hand wheel nuts on one side and I keep forgetting.
Easy done
I have the same problem with bicycle pedals :)
Bad luck with the wood lathe spindle. Could you turn a sleave for the pulley that would allow you to turn away all of the bad stuff your over tightening did? Also on your metal lathe have you considered the motor and powered screw upgrades clouf42 did to his cheap Chinese lathe, completely did away with the need for change gears and a gear box. I hope you find a solution to your wood lathe spindle and enjoy your content, take care D.
It's not needed to sleeve the pulley. Hopefully I only need to make some room so it will slide over the threads. I did consider a electric lead screw and bought a couple of different motors for it. It's on my list, but I prefer working with my vintage lathe.
Yeah buddy. I can still remember my first run in with Left Hand Threads . The rear axle bearing retainer nut on the drivers side of an MG Midget..
They are thin to begin with and about an inch and a half around. I wound up beating it to death using a flat edged chisel and a hammer until just for grins I decided to see if I could work it back and forth. As soon as I knocked it real good going back the other way it loosened up and I spun it off by hand. $32 for a new one and this was a very long time ago.
So don't feel too bad. They had a saying back in the Old Country that my Grandfather taught me when I was very young.
"Shit Happens".
As usual, I am already looking forward to the next installment.
Shit happens more than I like :(
Hey mr,R M, Ya still the best,look forward to all your videos,no matter what you are doing.
Regards TW canada,s west coast,,,,,
Thanks, I will make a new one as long a Google allows me to still login
You could get some thread measuring wires they are dirt cheap but kind of fiddly
I will look into those because I'm not sure what they are.
Every now and then we all meet Bozo in the shop. Left handed lug nuts and studs on older cars can also drive you crazy.
Everybody hates L.H. treads, and still they keep making them :)
You know Rolling, we all make mistakes, then we learn and move on.
Mark an arrow on the pulley if you think you'll forget again.
Cheers !
I will surely do that for the next time.
Use a thread file you can get them at a auto parts store or on line. To clean up the threads . Then clean up the pulley. All good then
I have a few small diamond files. I'll give it a go.
Me gusta el video, una buena orientacion sobre esta profesion que para mi es muy importante muy bueno.
Bom trabalho amigo, ficou muito bom.
When is RUclips going to add a translate button. I made that suggestion before, but they don't listen to me :)
Damn, the shit show took a dark turn this episode. Could have been worse somehow. Do you have a thread file?
I will have to deal with it some day but I have not been in the old barn for a while not. I will try a file, but the threads have been pinched against each other pretty good.
@@Rolingmetal Maybe you can internally thread something with that pitch and kind of make a thread chaser?
Use a small knife edge needle file... carefully.
Actually, if the threaded part of the spindle is not hardened, You could get away with a triangle shaped file. Then just, with some time, file the thread straight.
There is probably not enough room to fit a small file. But I will try.
A note to myself also, put a sign on the pulley saying the thread direction. I'm sure my IQ has gone down in the last 6 months, so need the reminders.
Yup... A sharpie arrow goes a long way as a reminder.
I should have done that..
Dam I feel your pain with the wrong direction fuckup
Still feel it this day, and I have not been in the old barn for a while now.
@@Rolingmetal I know it's hard to recover from, like you I would have too look at it and torcher myself,, but life goes on and tell yourself you can always get another spindle
its called the "Flank" = side of thread (Leading or Trailing "Flank") Sooooo. Yeah.
One flank got pushed into the other Flank :(
Hahahahahahaha. I’m dying. Where the hell are you from man? I gotta know what language you think in so I can check out some translated books from your country and die laughing.
Like it
We all make mistakes, When they happen all you can do is back up 5 yards and punt. You'll probbally hit the goal post but what the hey............
You CAN do that, Yeah. Or like me, you can have a 10 second tantrum at your own stupidity. :D
Somewhere inside of the partition wall of my garage is still a broken 1/8" tap and a tapping handle that I flung 5 seconds after the tap broke flush inside of a part I'd spent days working on. It punched a neat 5x1.5" hole on the plasterboard about 6' up the wall, But didn't make it all the way through and fell down somewhere inside. After 2 days of pondering about ripping into the wall to get it back I just bought another small tap holder and a little bag of plaster to fix the hole. :D
I usually go for a bicule ride to forget the issue. Although I have not been in the old barn for a while.
Usually you just look up the bore size for a thread. No calculations required. That grove at the back is just clearance and could be anything.
The pitch and the od should be all you need to determine what a thread is. Also only a really old lathe would have a 55 degree whitworth thread.
Don’t worry that your pitch gauge says whitworth that is just the Chinese who don’t know what they are talking about. It should say TPI. 5 degrees is nothing on those little teeth.
So first you need to determine what size thread you have. Any modern thread should fit some standard.
The pitch is a great place to start and it looks 14tpi is what you have although your diameter of 29.7mm is not near any imperial size.
Usually the outside diameter is a bit smaller than the nominal size of the thread. Hmmmm looking a bit like 30mm
A quick google of standard spindle threads says 30mm uses a 1.5mm pitch. Did you put a 1.5mm pitch gauge against your thread?
Also try a couple either side of that on your gauge.
Although it does seem like 1.5mm is not that close to 14 tpi for you to make a mistake.
Most 14 tpi threads I could find are 3/4 or 7/8 inches which is way smaller than what you have.
This is just the first thing I came across that lists common spindle nose threads.
store.gammazinken.net/Woodturning/How-to-measure-the-thread-of-a-chuck
BTW
A thread dial isn’t going to be that much use if you are cutting imperial threads with a metric lead screw.
There are a few tricks for stopping in blind holes and picking up the same place as you back the tool out.
Cutting towards the tail stock means you need to run the lathe backwards with the tool upside down.
This can come with its own problems like not being able to get your tool on centre height or unscrewing your chuck if it is a screw on type.
Those parts don’t look so damaged that you can’t save them. Remember we’re Machinists :)
Sorry to see you clamping the shit out of that nut. Look on the bright side. You compound slide didn’t hit the chuck!
Looking forward to the recovery video :)
I believe the spindle nose threads on this lathe were deliberately made non standard top sell more attachments. I'm no more than a wannabe Y.T. machinist :)
Maybe you're just not destined to have a plum bowl?
That comment got me laughing far more than it should have. :D
Yeah, Maybe fate IS trying to tell him something. LOL !
Might be :)
Use a thread file ti fix the thread
I'll try but there probably is not enough room for a file. The started of the thread is pinched rather good.
Dont use an impact on your lathe, iq - 1000
Yep, that was a stupid mistake. I still need to fix it :(
Sorry about your lathe.
I'm more sorry about myself :)
That sucks
It does, big time. Have not been in the old barn for a while now. :(
I feel fo r u in the fuckup, a suggestio too late is. On a left hand thread draw an arrow on the outside pully face. With undo to the left of the arrow. On a differnt topic, in the last vid u said you did nt have all the good gear abom has, maybe but u go something better i.e. a great sense of humour. Abom a good machinist but hes rather boreing away from machining, work is all hes got. You r far more interesting. Lookinf forward to seeu drag yourself out of the shit, kind regards henry
Yep, I should have marked that pulley, as other have suggested. Maybe Abom can come over and fix it for me, but will probably have to dot it myself and try to learn a thing or 2.
@@Rolingmetal no to the angle grinder. As others have suggested a small triangle file would be better. I forgot to mention it in my last comment. Looking forward to more bids ty.