I'm watching this in the driver's seat of my E. After you broke that bolt free on the caliper hose I realized I was bracing my knee against the armrest on the door-you know, to help you knock that bolt loose🤣.
Lot of keyboard cowboys in these comments. Reeeelax hoss, not her first brake job, but here you are … critiquing the mechanic you sought for guidance. 🙄
So, this makes me glad I do not live in the rust belt..... I am also glad I have a kit for compressing the pistons back into the caliper, because using C-clamps to do it sucks.
I just bought a a caliper depress tool that plugs into the pistons that turn... Im 100% I saw someone do it for an element on a different vid... then I google factory caliper and sure enough I see only the circle piston that depresses with any pressure... good greef...
Put Liquid Wrench on a few days before starting work on brakes, and repeat a couple times in between that and starting work. The original formula, and wear a VOC respirator when using ANY chemicals! Don’t get it on the rotor/pads if you will drive it after application, and don’t just spray it all over, only on bolts and screws to be removed, and just a little spritz on the heads and any exposed threads. And BEFORE you start the work, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!!! The whole area, and especially above the work, crud is subject to gravity! Just as you get close on connecting things some big chunk of rust or greasy dirt will fall into somewhere critical that it’s a pain to get it out of, possibly causing more disassembly and heartaches. Or in this instance, with brakes DEATH. It’s so easy to miss crud falling as you reach for something and brush areas above your work inadvertently. Then there is the bigger picture of the crud holding moisture and corrosives all over you cars mechanical and body parts. Especially on those salted roads. At the machine shop I worked at (we did all the work for the San Diego municipal bus system) we steam cleaned engines before we ever touched them. Once you get used to working on clean assemblies, you learn a ton of stuff that makes it imperative for cleanliness. Not to mention you and your clothes and tools and equipment…… It really is a different world when you clean everything first. The increase in convenience and ease makes it quicker and SO much better all the way around.
Auto parts stores sell bleeding bottles that have a hose that goes on the open bleeder and goes to the bottom of the bottle with some brake fluid in it and the end of the hose submerged. You can bleed them by yourself that way. Just let up a little slowly, and push down quickly and firmly. Watch the fluid reservoir! Don’t let it get empty or you’ll be sucking air into the brake system.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I'm watching this in the driver's seat of my E. After you broke that bolt free on the caliper hose I realized I was bracing my knee against the armrest on the door-you know, to help you knock that bolt loose🤣.
Watching you put those screws back into that rotor pained me. RIP the next soul who tries to take those off.
That and when she used a hammer on the hat of the rotor without putting the lug nuts on to protect the threads in case of a miss hit.
Your videos are always well done. Great camera work and thorough explanations. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the procedure, worked for me, and saved me $500
Lot of keyboard cowboys in these comments. Reeeelax hoss, not her first brake job, but here you are … critiquing the mechanic you sought for guidance. 🙄
Use a small pair of vice grips to crimp the line..
My 17mm caliper bracket bolts are seized to high hell. I remember for my accord it also took me hours to break them...
So, this makes me glad I do not live in the rust belt..... I am also glad I have a kit for compressing the pistons back into the caliper, because using C-clamps to do it sucks.
Your services doesn't include the cleaning of the calipers?
l would suggest wearing eye protection especially around brake fluid or when working on any part of a vehicle eyes are not replaceable safety first.
+J .w Thanks for the feedback!
How about when spraying pressurized brake clean. And where’s the respirator for that poisonous cancer causing stuff.
I just bought a a caliper depress tool that plugs into the pistons that turn... Im 100% I saw someone do it for an element on a different vid... then I google factory caliper and sure enough I see only the circle piston that depresses with any pressure... good greef...
Rear calipers on the element turn in, the fronts press in
Put Liquid Wrench on a few days before starting work on brakes, and repeat a couple times in between that and starting work. The original formula, and wear a VOC respirator when using ANY chemicals! Don’t get it on the rotor/pads if you will drive it after application, and don’t just spray it all over, only on bolts and screws to be removed, and just a little spritz on the heads and any exposed threads. And BEFORE you start the work, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!!! The whole area, and especially above the work, crud is subject to gravity! Just as you get close on connecting things some big chunk of rust or greasy dirt will fall into somewhere critical that it’s a pain to get it out of, possibly causing more disassembly and heartaches. Or in this instance, with brakes DEATH. It’s so easy to miss crud falling as you reach for something and brush areas above your work inadvertently. Then there is the bigger picture of the crud holding moisture and corrosives all over you cars mechanical and body parts. Especially on those salted roads. At the machine shop I worked at (we did all the work for the San Diego municipal bus system) we steam cleaned engines before we ever touched them. Once you get used to working on clean assemblies, you learn a ton of stuff that makes it imperative for cleanliness. Not to mention you and your clothes and tools and equipment…… It really is a different world when you clean everything first. The increase in convenience and ease makes it quicker and SO much better all the way around.
my element has two different length slider bolts. Hmm...
I’m not a fan of crimping the hose especially if you don’t replace it. Just leave it and compress the piston before you take the caliper off.
Do you have a mechanical bleeder or someone pumping brakes
+Monk Soup We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Auto parts stores sell bleeding bottles that have a hose that goes on the open bleeder and goes to the bottom of the bottle with some brake fluid in it and the end of the hose submerged. You can bleed them by yourself that way. Just let up a little slowly, and push down quickly and firmly. Watch the fluid reservoir! Don’t let it get empty or you’ll be sucking air into the brake system.
Uses hook to hang caliper. Then proceeds to let it hang by the hose
Maybe you couldn't push the caliper in because you crimped the line?
Better install everything new.
why did you call a hand hammer impact driver "pneumatic"? lol....
You own a lift, why do you still use hand tools😂 zero efficiency
Because people watching might only have hand tools.
You should use more emojis...for extra junior high school energy.